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AUTHOR: 


MORTON,  EDWARD 


TITLE: 


TRAVELS  IN 
RUSSIA 


PLACE: 


LONDON 


DA  TE : 


1830 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 
PRESERVATION  DEPARTMENT 

BIBLIOGRAPHIC  MICROFORM  TARGET 


Master  Negative  # 

31-800gl'2 


Original  Material  as  Filmed  -  Existing  Bibliographic  Record 


947.01 
M846 


Morton,  Edward. 

Iravels  in  Russia,  and  a  residence  at  St.  Petersburg  and 
Odessa,  in  the  years  1827-1829 ;  intended  to  give  some  account 
of  Russia  as  it  is,  and  not  as  it  is  represented  to  be,  &c.  i&c. 
By  Edward  Morton  ...  London,  Printed  for  Longman,  Rees, 
Orme,  Brown,  and  Oreen,  1880. 

1  p.  1..  [Vj-xlx,  486  p.    22«". 


Restrictions  on  Use: 


l^Rusala — Descr.  &  trav.    2:_^Petrograd — Descr.    3.  Odessa,  Russla- 
Descr. 


Library  of  Congress 


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THE  LIBRARIES 


TRAVELS  IN  RUSSIA, 


AND 


A    RESIDENCE 


AT 


ST.  PETERSBURG    AND    ODESSA, 

IN 

THE  YEARS  18^7 — 1829 ; 

INTENDED    TO    GIVE 

SOME   ACCOUNT   OF  RUSSIA   AS   IT   IS, 

AND 

NOT   AS    IT    IS    REPRESENTED    TO    BE, 

&c.  &c. 


I 

t 

f 


BY  EDWARD   MORTON,   M.B. 

MEMBER    OF   TRINITY    COLLEGE,   CAMBRIDGE, 

AND    OF    THE    ROYAL    COLLEGE    OF    PHYSICIANS,    LONDON; 

LATE    PHYSICIAN   TO    THE    WESTERN    DISPENSARY, 

AND   TO    THE    ROYAL   METROPOLITAN 

INFIRMARY    FOR    CHILDREN. 


LONDON: 

PRINTED    FOR 

LONGMAN,    REES,   ORME,    BROWN,    AND   GREEN, 

PATERNOSTER.ROW. 
1830. 


57505D 


% 


CO 


^ 


PREFACK 


The  author  of  the  following  sheets,  during  his 
late  residence  in  Russia,  was  in  the  habit  of 
keeping  a  daily  journal,  at  first  with  no  other 
object  in  view  than  his  own  instruction,  and  the 
amusement  of  his  immediate  friends  in  England, 
who  received  a  volume,  from  time  to  time,  when 
he  had  the  opportunity  of  forwarding  it  by  a 
conveyance  not  liable  to  official  visitation.  On 
ceasing  to  be  regarded  as  a  stranger  in  Russia, 
his  sources  of  information  multiplied ;  and  his 
recorded  facts  accumulating  in  the  same  pro- 
portion,  led  him  to  entertain  the  idea  of  attempt- 
ing,  at  some  future  period,  a  History  of  Odessa 
—  a  work  which  seemed  to  be  required,  as  none 
had  previously  appeared  in  this  country  profess- 
ing  to  give  a  full  and  accurate  description  of  that 
town.  Scarcely,  however,  had  he  commenced 
the  collection  of  materials  expressly  for  this  pur- 
pose, when  circumstances  occurred  which  in- 
duced him,  from  a  sense  of  professional  duty  as 
an  English  physician,  to  resign  the  appointment 
he  held  under  a  written  protest,  and  to  demand 
a  passport  for  England.  His  plans,  so  far  as  re- 
lated to  his  projected  work,  were  therefore,  of 

A  3 


VI 


PREFACE. 


PREFACE. 


VU 


course,  disarranged,  and  every  opportunity  of 
adding  to  the  stock  of  information  previously 
acquired  at  an  end :  yet,  although  he  has  to 
lament  the  absence  of  some  that  had  been  pro- 
mised him,  and  which  a  longer  residence  at 
Odessa  would  unquestionably  have  supplied,  he 
considers  himself  fortunate  in  having  procured 
so  much ;  in  having,  besides,  bought  all  the  pub- 
lished documents  which  were  to  be  obtained  on 
the  spot  calculated  to  assist  him  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  his  design ;  and,  particularly,  in  having, 
after  the  most  unexpected  and  vexatious  delays, 
received  the  whole  of  his  notes  and  papers  in 
safety.  Although  the  writer*s  intention,  origin- 
ally, w  as  merely  to  give  a  description  of  Odessa, 
yet,  on  his  return  to  England,  he  was  induced 
somewhat  to  alter  and  extend  his  plan.  Having 
resided  at  Odessa  during  a  most  interesting 
period ;  namely,  at  the  time  of  the  late  Imperial 
visit,  when  the  ambassadors  and  envoys  from  the 
different  states  were  also  present  in  that  town, 
he  had,  from  the  office  he  held,  unusual  oppor- 
tunities of  obtaining  authentic  information  re- 
specting various  circumstances  connected  with 
the  late  war  in  Turkey ;  which  he  conceives,  at 
the  present  time,  from  the  unsettled  state  of  that 
country,  and  the  unknown  determinations  of 
Russian  policy  respecting  it,  may  not  be  alto- 
gether uninteresting.  Having  also  witnessed  the 
sufferings  of  a  British  subject,  who,  being  unfor- 


1 1 


tunately  made  prisoner  of  war  at  Varna,  was  con- 
demned, by  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  to  banish- 
ment in  Siberia, —  a  proceeding  which  all,  to 
whom  it  has  been  mentioned  in  England,  have 
considered  as  unjust  as  it  was  cruel,  —  he  thinks 
it  his  duty  to  make  this  instance  of  despotism 
generally  known,  in  the  hope  that  such  publicity, 
if  the  unfortunate  victim  is  still  alive,  may  facili- 
tate his  restoration  to  liberty ;  an  event  of  very 
improbable  occurrence,  should  the  treatment  he 
has  experienced  remain  wholly  unnoticed  in  this 
country. 

In  the  execution  of  the  following  work,  besides 
his  own  materials,  the  author  has  had  recourse  to 
the  able  and  erudite  "  Essai  sur  PHistoire  An- 
cienne  et  Moderne  de  la  Nouvelle  Russie,"  by 
the  Marquis  Castelnau  ;  the  "  Dictionnaire  Geo- 
graphique  Historique  de  PEmpire  de  Russie,  par 
N.  S.  Vsevolojsky;'*  "  Lettres  sur  Odessa  par 
Sicard  Aine;"  and  the  "Journal  d'Odessa," 
published  by  the  local  government.  From  these 
he  has  freely  borrowed,  either  translating  or 
abridging  whatever  appeared  suited  to  his  pur- 
pose, or  making  such  alterations  as  his  own  ex- 
perience led  him  to  consider  necessary.  He  has 
also  availed  himself  of  quotations  from  Bishop 
James's  "  Journal  of  a  Tour  in  Germany,  Sweden, 
Russia,  and  Poland,  in  1813-14;"  Dr.  Mac- 
michaePs  "  Journey  from  Moscow  to  Constanti- 
nople," and  Dr.  Lyall's  "  Travels  in  Russia,  the 

A    4f 


vm 


PREFACE. 


PREFACE. 


IX 


\ 


Crimea,  the  Caucasus,  and  Georgia,"  either  in 
support  of  what  he  has  himself  advanced,  or  by 
way  of  explanatory  notes  upon  certain  passages ; 
and  imagines  that  he  has  thus  added  consider- 
ably to  whatever  value  his  own  observations  may 
be  found  to  possess.  He  has,  however,  always 
marked  as  quotations  whatever  he  has  thus  taken 
from  these  authors,  of  whose  works  he  cannot 
speak  too  highly.  The  writer  has  also  transferred 
to  his  own  pages,  but  in  a  different  manner,  and 
with  a  different  object,  numerous  extracts  from 
Dr.  Granville's  volumes,  entitled  "  St.  Peters- 
burg ;  "  for,  on  perusing  them,  he  found  that  the 
able  author,  in  his  highly  flattering  account  of 
every  thing  relating  to  Russia,  has  either  fallen, 
or  been  designedly  led  by  others,  into  many 
serious  mistakes ;  and  as  it  is  to  be  feared  that 
some  of  these,  if  uncommented  upon  and  uncor- 
rected, may  be  productive  of  the  greatest  evils  to 
individuals,  by  encouraging  them  to  accept  the 
alluring  invitations,  and  to  believe  the  dazzlinir 
promises  which  are  constantly  made  to  EngHsh- 
men,  for  the  purpose  of  inducing  them  to  throw  up 
their  appointments  at  home,  and  to  go  to  Russia, 
(while  these  promises,  it  ought  to  be  univer- 
sally understood,  are  almost  as  invariably  broken 
in  that  country,  as  they  are  apparently  offered 
with  good  faith  in  this,)  he  has  therefore  felt  him- 
self bound  to  criticise  these  errors  freely,  more 
particularly  as  Dr.  Granville  has  thought  proper 


to  call  in  question  the  veracity  of  all  previous 
"  English  travellers,"  (many  of  whose  statements 
the  present  writer  has  been  enabled,  personally, 
to  verify,)  and  also  to  make  comparisons  which 
reflect  unjustly  upon  England.  Lest,  however, 
it  should  be  supposed  that  the  strictures  which 
he  has  considered  it  his  duty  to  make  upon  "  St. 
Petersburg"  are  directed  personally  against  its 
indefatigable  author  (of  whose  talents  he  enter- 
tains the  highest  opinion),  he  begs  here  most 
unequivocally  to  disclaim  any  such  intention; 
nor  will  he  hesitate  to  add,  that  the  particular, 
and,  generally  speaking,  correct  account  of  the 
Russian  capital,  in  the  work  alluded  to,  amply 
justifies  the  success  it  has  met  with,  notwith- 
standing the  obvious  bias  with  which  it  is  WTitten. 
The  minuteness  adhered  to  in  the  third  and 
ninth  chapters,  in  detailing  the  number  of  versts, 
&c.,  may  perhaps  appear  objectionable,  and  prove 
tedious  to  the  general  reader,  yet  the  difficulties 
of  travelling  in  Russia,  to  a  foreigner,  are  such, 
from  the  impossibility  of  finding  any  livre  de  post, 
or  guide  for  the  road,  and  from  the  barefaced 
roguery  and  extortions  of  the  post-masters  and 
secretaries,  that  the  author  has  chosen  rather  to 
run  the  risk  of  rendering  his  description  less  in- 
teresting to  some,  in  order  that  it  may  become 
more  useful  to  others.  In  pursuance  of  this  in- 
tention, therefore,  not  a  single  post-station  has 
been  omitted  on  the  long  line  of  road  between 


X 


PREFACE. 


PREFACE. 


XI 


S 


I 


\\ 


St.  Petersburg  and  Odessa,  or  from  Odessa  to 
Radzivilof.  Some  of  the  subjects  in  the  sixth 
chapter  may  also  seem  liable  to  criticism,  as  de- 
ficient in  importance ;  it  is  presumed,  however, 
that  they  may  tend,  in  some  measure,  to  iUustrate 
Russian  character,  and  with  this  view  they  have 
been  introduced. 

Having  thus  made  his  acknowledgments  where 
he  conceives  them  to  be  required,  and  endea- 
voured to  prevent  any  misconception  with  re- 
spect to  his  views,  the  author  of  tlie  accompany- 
ing work  fears  he  has  little  to  claim  for  himself 
but  its  defects.  That  these  are  both  numerous 
and  serious  he  is  well  aware  \  and  had  a  longer 
period  for  its  completion,  and  better  health 
during  its  progress,  been  afforded  him,  they 
might,  perhaps,  have  been  rendered  less  frequent 
and  more  venial ;  though  he  has  not  the  vanity  to 
suppose  that  any  circumstances  could  liave  super- 
seded, however  they  might  have  diminished,  the 
necessity  for  that  appeal  which  he  now  makes  to 
the  indulgent  consideration  of  the  public.  But, 
whatever  may  be  the  extent  of  his  failure  as  to 
style,  he  still  relies  upon  the  genuineness  of  his 
information ;  his  ^workmanship  may  be  bad,  but 
he  believes  his  materials  to  be  good :  he  feels 
confident,  that  in  the  following  pages  (as  far  as 
they  go)  Russia  is  represented  as  it  is ;  while 
most  of  the  facts  which  have  led  to  the  formation 
of  his  opinions  being  also  stated,  the  reader  will 


be  thus  enabled  to  judge  how  far  his  conclusions 
are  just,  and  whether  warranted  or  not  by  the 
data,  with  which  a  residence  in  St.  Petersburg 
and  Odessa,  and  travels  of  nearly  two  thousand 
miles  in  Russia,  have  supplied  him.  The  author's 
object  being  to  delineate  national  peculiarities, 
and  not  to  disseminate  private  scandal,  he  has 
uniformly  abstained  from  mentioning  names, 
where  it  could  be  avoided  ;  nor  will  he  do  other- 
wise, unless  injudicious  advocates  should  attempt 
to  deny  the  authenticity  of  what  he  has  advanced, 
in  which  case  he  may,  perhaps,  deviate  from  his 
present  intention,  and  give  proofs  of  character 
yet  uithheld. 

He  regrets  that  his  account  of  the  Russians  is 
not  more  favourable,  but  truth  compels  him  to 
give  no  other ;  it  is,  however,  with  pleasure  that 
he  adds  there  are,  doubtless,  occasional  excep- 
tions to  the  general  rule,  having  himself  met  with 
a  few  of  both  sexes  who,  he  believes^  would  do 
honour  to  any  country ;  —  more  he  cannot  say. 

In  conclusion,  the  author  has  merely  to  ob- 
serve,  that  to  candid  criticism  he  will  ever  yield 
a  ready  and  a  grateful  attention ;  while  the  op- 
position of  those  who  may  be  influenced  by  per- 
sonal hostility,  by  official  obligation,  or  by  mo- 
tives of  interest,  will  alike  be  disregarded  and 
unnoticed. 

Eaton -Street,  Grosvenor-Place, 
1830. 


I' 


1 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  I. 

VOYAGE  FROM  LONDON  TO  ST.  PETERSBURG. 

Cause  of  the  Journey.  —  Leave  London. —Terrible  Gale. 

—  Put  into  Gottenburg.— Reach  Elsineur Copenhagen. 

—Port  Baltic.  —  Military  Intruders.— Conduct  of  the 
Custom-house  Officers  at   Cronstadt.  —  Description    of 

Cronstadt Cronchlot. —  Unwarrantable    Detention    at 

Cronstadt.— Arrival  at  St.  Petersburg.— Inquisitorial  Re- 
gulations of  the  Police.— Their  Inefficacy.  —  Revolt  of 
26th  December,  1825.  —The  Emperor  and  Count  Milora- 

dovitch Censors — Regulations  to  prevent  the  Import- 

ation  of  Books  —  Useless,   and  openly  broken. Reach 

Count  Vorontzof 's  House.  -  -  Page  1 

CHAP.  IL 

RESIDENCE   IN    ST.   PETERSBURG. 

St.  Petersburg — Visit  to  the  Litofsky  Prison The  Author 

of  «  St.  Petersburg,"  and  the  other  Writers  upon  Russia. 
—  Masquerade  at  Court.  —  Ceremony  of  blessing  the 
Waters  of  the  Neva.— The  Battle  of  Navarino  and  the 
Russians — Russian  Mountains.— Abdication  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Constantine — Mrs.  Cochrane Beauty  of  the  Rus- 
sian Ladies,  their  Education,  &c.— Alexander  Pousch- 
kme —  Equipages  of  the  Russians —  Number  of  Murders 
m  Russia,  and  England.  —  Russian  Servage.  —  Capital 
Punishments  in  Russia — Russian  Stoves System  of 


MM 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


Russian  Posting,  infamous  Conduct  of  the  Post- masters,  &c. 
—The  late  George  Dawe,  Esq.,  R.  A.  — Condition  of 
Medical  Officers  in  the  Russian  Army,  &c.  — Madame 
and  the  Author  of  "  St.  Petersburg."        Page  23 


CHAP.  III. 

JOURNEY  FROM  ST.  PETERSBURG  TO  ODESSA. 

Leave  St.  Petersburg Stopped  at  the  Barrier.  —  Marble 

Verst  Posts. — Sophia. — Wonderful  Relics. — Grand  Mas- 
tership of  the  Knightsof  Malta.— Gatchina — Bad  Roads. 

—  Accident. —  Intense  Cold. — Curious  Appearance  of  the 
Sledge  Roads. — Government  of  Pskof.  —  Illness  of  the 
Countess  Vorontzof. — Government  of  Vitebsk. — Govern- 
ment of  Mogilef. — Orcha Miserable  and  disgusting  Ac- 
commodations.—  Russian  Filth.  —  Arrival  at  Mogilef. — 
Guard  turned  out.  —  Field  Marshal  Sacken.  —  Awkward 
Predicament. — Government  of  Tchernigof. — Little  Russia. 

—  "  The  Steppes." — Tumuli.  —  Snow  Storm. — Wretched 
Accommodations. —  Critique  on  the  Author  of  "  St.  Pe- 
tersburg."—  Government  of  Kief. — Kief. — Catacombs. — 
Pretended  Mummies. — Odoriferous  Heads. —  Biela  Tser- 
kof.  —  Countess   Branitskii.  —  Anecdotes Wolf  Hunt. 

—  Alexandria.  —  Intended  Assassination  of  the  Emperor 
Alexander. — Proposed  Abdication  of  Alexander. — Death 
of  Alexander. —  Sir  James  Wylie.  —  A  clean  Bed.  —  Go- 
vernment of  Cherson. —  New  Russia. — General  Leon  Na- 
rischkine.  — Padaroshna  lost. — Terrible  Roads.  —  Sledges 
discontinued.  —  Accident.  —  More  Inconveniences  and 
Discomforts. — Writers  on  Russia.  — Arrival  at  Nikolaief. 
— Admiral  Greig.  —  Town  of  Nikolaief.  —  Leave  Niko- 
laief.—  Ludicrous  Cavalcade.  —  Dangerous  State  of  the 
Boug. —  Accident.  —  Postilion  drowned.  —  Passage  of  the 
Boug.  —  Sassitskaya.  —  Plague  Monument.  —  Postilion 
and  Mails  lost.— Arrival  at  Odessa.      -  -  112 


CHAP.  IV. 

RISE,  PROGRESS,  AND  PRESENT  STATE  OF  ODESSA. 

Ancient  History.  —  Scythians.  —  Greeks.  —  Existence  of  a 
Greek  Establishment.  —  Turks. —  Hadgibey. — Taking  of 
Hadgibey.  —  Modern  History.  —  Foundation  of  Odessa. 
— Not  the  Site  of  Odessus. —  Slow  Progress  of  the  Town. 
— Emperor  Paul  bestows  his  Favours  upon  it. — Roguery 
of  the  public  Officers.  —  Arrival  of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu 
at  Odessa.  —  Progress  of  Odessa  from  1803  to  ISl't. — 
Departure  of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu.  —  Appointment  of 
Count  Langeron  as  Governor-general.  —  Faithless  Policy 
of  the  Russian  Government.  —  Languishing  Condition  of 
Odessa  in  consequence.  —  Nomination  of  Count  Michel 
Vorontzof  as  Governor-general.  —  Particular  Description 
of  Odessa.  —  Hospital.  —  Cathedral.  —  Strade.  —  Cher- 
sona. —  Ribas. — Richelieu. — Theatre.  — New  Boulevard. 

—  Governor-general's  new  House  —  Minute  Description 
of.  — Critique  upon. — Materials  supplied  by  the  Machailof 
Palace  of  St.  Petersburg. —  Infamous  Roguery  of  public 
Officers  in  the  Formation  of  the  Roads. —  Plague.  — Dust. 

—  Heat.  —  Letter  from  Admiral  Mordvinof  to  the  present 
Emperor.  —  Roguery  of  all  Employes.  —  Reasons  why  so 
little  Improvement  takes  place  in  Russia.  —  Climate  of 
Odessa  from  the  Observations  of  a  Series  of  Years.  —  Po- 
pulation of  Odessa  from  official  Returns.  —  Government  of 
Odessa.  —  Magistrates.  — Pol  ice. — Gendarmerie. — Reve- 
nues of  the  Town.  —  Public  Establishments.  —  Establish- 
ments connected  with  Commerce.  —  Ports  of  Odessa  :  — 
Quarantine  Port  — Military  Port. — Official  Details. — List 
of  Importations  in  1828.  —  List  of  Exportations  in  1828. 

—  First  Employment  of  Steam-vessels  in  the  Black  Sea. 

—  Steam-boat  of  Odessa.  —  A  Failure.  —  Quarantine,  par- 
ticular Description  of. — Board  of  Health. — Custom-house. 

—  Amount  of  Duties  for  a  Series  of  Years.  —  Classes  of 
Merchants.  —  The  Exchange.  —  The  new  Exchange.  — 
Tribunal  of  Commerce.  —  Deputation  of  Commerce.  — 
Brokers — Bank  of  Exchange. — Discount  Bank. — Cham- 


Mbi 


#*iMl 


■  'W 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


CONTENTS. 


XVll 


\ 


bers  of  Insurance.  —  Imperial  Chamber  of  Insurance. — 
Greco-Russian  Chamber  of  Insurance.  —  Fire  Insurance 
Company.  —  Proposed  Dutch  Factory  at  Odessa  to  trade 
to  India  over-land.  —  Designs  of  Russia  upon  our  Indian 
Possessions. — Establishments  connected  with  the  Govern- 
ment. —  Fortress.  —  Garrison.  —  Barracks.  —  Prison.  — 
Police-office.  —  Committee  of  Health.  —  Post-office.  — 
Establishments  connected  with  Religion.  —  Cathedral. — 
Catholic  Church.  —  Greek  Church. — Rascolnic*s  Church. 

—  Jews'  Synagogue.  —  Greek  Hurying-ground.  —  Jews* 
Burying-ground.  —  Plague  Burying-ground.  —  Charitable 
Establishments.  —  Town  Hospital.  —  Benevolent  Society 
of  the  Ladies  of  New  Russia.  —  Society  of  Prison  Dis- 
cipline.—  Scientific  Establishments.  —  Museum. —  Impe- 
rial Agricultural  Establishment. — Agricultural  Society  of 
Southern  Russia.  —  Establishment  for  the  Preparation  of 
Mineral  Waters.  —  Establishments  for  Education.  —  Ly- 
ceum of  Richelieu. —  Institute  for  noble  Young  Ladies. — 
New  School  for  Oriental  Languages  (probably  connected 
with  Designs  of  future  Conquests).  —  Establishments  for 
Recreation.  —  Public  Garden.  —  Theatre.  —  Club.  — As- 
sembly Room. — New  Resourse. — English  Club. — Hotels. 

—  Race  Course. — Bathing  Houses. — Literature. — Odessa 
Journal.  —  State  of  Literature  and  the  Fine  Arts.  —  Agri- 
culture. —  English  Sheep  imported  into  Odessa.  —  Gene- 
ral Notice  of  Vineyards  at  Odessa,  from  its  Foundation 
until  the  present  Time.  —  Markets.  —  Articles  of  Con- 
sumption. —  Rents.  —  Fuel.  —  Native  Coal  brought  for 
the  first  time  to  Odessa.  —  Objects  of  Luxury,  —  Coutas, 
or  Country  Houses.         -  -  -  Page  175 


to  prevent  the  Spreading  of  the  Contagion.  —  Progress  of 
the  Contagion.  —  The  Town  in  Quarantine.  —  Dreadful 
Spectacle. — Praiseworthy  Conduct  of  the  Duke  de  Riche- 
lieu.— Troops  affected  with  the  Contagion. —  Continu- 
ance of  the  precautionary  Measures. — General  Symptoms 
observed  in  those  who  laboured  under  the  Plague. — 
Certain  Peculiarities  observed  in  the  Symptoms. — Tables 
of  the  Mortality  in  1812  — in  1813.  — Means  of  Preven- 
tion.   Remarkable  Instance   of  Insusceptibility  of  the 

Plague.  ....  Page  312 


CHAP.  VL 

RESIDENCE  AT  ODESSA;    OR,  FACTS  AND  OPINIONS  PICKED  UP 
DURING  A   FIFTEEN  MONTHS'  SOJOURN  IN  THAT  TOWN. 

Ceremony  of  washing  the  Feet.  —  Inauguration  of  the  Statue 
of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu.  —  Monument  to  the  same.— 
Caitchailee  and  Greek  Dance.  —  Locusts.  —  Remarkable 
Instance  of  conjugal  Devotion.  —  Animal  Magnetism. — 
Making  Charpie.  — Instances  of  Despotism.  —Circassians. 
—Various  Russian  Customs.  — Dresses  of  Brides.  —Curious 
Custom  after  an  Accouchement.  —  Custom  on  Christmas 
Eve.  —  Custom  on  the  last  Day  of  the  Year.  —  Curious 
Custom  in  the  South  of  Russia  on  New-year's  Day.  — 
Anecdote  of  a  Russian  Slave.  —  Howard's  Monument.— 
Balls  and  Masquerade  at  the  Governor-generars.— Monu- 
ment to  Prince  Potyemkin.  — The  late  War  in  Turkey. 

351 


CHAP.  V. 

SOME  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  DREADFUL  PLAGUE  WHICH  PRE- 
VAILED AT  ODESSA,  IN  THE  YEARS  1812-13. 

Its  Origin.  —  Supposed  Cases  of  Plague.  —  Meeting  of  the 
Medical  Practitioners  called.  —  Difference  of  Opinion.  — 
Declared  by  one  to  be  Plague.  —  Primary  Measures  taken 


CHAP.  VII. 

SOME  ACCOUNT    OF    THE   IMPERIAL  VISIT    TO  ODESSA    IN  THE 

YEAR   1828. 

Preliminary  Observations.  —  Arrival  of  the  Emperor  and 
Empress  at  Odessa.  —Town  illuminated.  —  Colours  taken 
from    the  Turks   paraded    about  the  Town Emperor 

a 


XVlll 


CONTENTS. 


leaves  Odessa  for  Ismail.  —  Te  Deum  for  the  Passage  of 
the  Danube.  —  Fete  Champetre  given  to  the  Empress  by 
Count  Vorontzof.  —  Return  of  the  Emperor.  —  Arrival  of 
Lord  Heytesbury.  —  Their  Majesties  leave  for  Nicolaief. 
—Return  to  Odessa.  —  Emperor  leaves  for  Varna.  —  Em- 
press's proposed  Tour  in  the  Crimea  —  Relinquished 
through  the  Intrigues  of  her  Suite.  —  Presentation  of  the 
Portrait.  —  Departure  of  the  Empress  for  St.  Petersburg. 
—  Deserved  Encomiums  on  their  Majesties.  — Arrival  of 
the  Emperor  from  Varna.  —  Departure  for  St.  Peters- 
burg.       Page  367 


CHAP.  VIII. 

AUTHENTIC  PARTICULARS  RELATIVE  TO  VARNA. 

The  Emperor   requests  Count  Vorontzof  to   command   at 
Varna.  —  The  latter  leaves  Odessa.— Lord  Bingham. — 

Taking  of  Varna Observation  of  the  Emperor  relative 

to  the  taking  of  Varna.  —  Statements  of  the  Quarterly 

Review  probably  correct By  what  Means  was  Varna 

taken  ?  —  Statements  of  various  Persons.  —  Statement  of 
Count  Vorontzof.  —  Reported    Cruelty   of  the   Capitan 

Pacha Russian  Plunder.  —  Emperor's  Letter  to  Count 

Vorontzof.  —  Present  of  a  Golden  Sword  and  Field  piece. 

Notice  of  Antiquities  brought  from  Varna Jusuph 

Pacha.  —  Arrives  in  Odessa Manner  in  which  he  was 

treated.  —  Attends  the  Governor-general's  Balls.  —  The 
Pacha's  Circassian  Wife  dines  with  the  Counters  Voront- 
zof.—  Eunuch. — Opinions  of  the  Russian  Ladies  respect- 
ing the  Pacha.  —  Quarterly  Review's  Statement  right.  — 
Trick  played  upon  the  Governor-general.  — Instance  of 

Despotism The  Capitan  Pacha's  Medical  Attendant, 

and  three  other  Prisoners,  arrive  in  Odessa.  —  Lodged  in 
the  Gaol.  —  Dreadful  Condition.  —  Ordered  to  Siberia. 
— Observations  thereon.         -  -  -  386 


CONTENTS. 


XIX 


CHAP.  IX. 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 

Leave  Odessa ^Barrier  of  Tiraspol.— Custom-house  search. 

—  Colonel  Hoffman  and  M.  Boulgofskoi.  — Tiraspol.— 

The  Dniester. — Tumuli Post-master's  Extortion — Gre- 

goriopol.  —  Government  of  Podolia.  —  Balta.  —Roguery. 
— Olgopol—  More  Extortion. — Toultchine.— Bratslaf. — 
Infamous  Conduct  of  the  Post-master  and  Secretary.— 
Odessa  Post-office  false  Marche  Route.— Correct  Route. 
—Detention  at  a  Post  Station.— Compelled  to  take  seven 
Horses.  — Government  of  Volhinia.  —  Zaslaf.  —  Ostrog. 
—  Bible  first  printed  in  the  Sclavonic  Language.— Jewish 
Evasion.  — Le  General Log  Roads.— Doubno — Bar- 
riers of  Radzivilof.— Passport  demanded.—  Search  at  the 
Custom-house.  —Vexatious  Regulations  on  leaving   the 
Russian  Frontiers.  —  Extortion  of  the  Custom-house  Of- 
ficers, and  unwarrantable  Detention.  —  Neutral  Ground. 

— Gallicia. Brody^  —  Villanous  Servant.—  Mr.  Micha- 

leckT^^Austrian   Diligence.  —  Lemberg.  —  Eilpost,    or 
Mail   Coach  —  Regulations   concerning.  —  Moravia.  — 
Olmutz.  —  Brunn.  —  Punishment   of  Forgery.  —Vienna. 
—Valets  de  Place.  —  Lintz.  —  Peculiar  Head-dress.  — 
Bavaria.  —  Liberal  Poems    of  the  King   of  Bavaria.— 
—  Nurnburg.  —  House  of  Albert  Durer.  —  Franconia.  — 
Wurtzburg.  —  Frankfort  sur  le  Maine.  —  Mayence.  — 
Voyage  down  the  Rhine.  —  Cologne.  —  Civility  of  Prus- 
sian Custom-house  Officers,  compared  with  the  bearish 
Conduct  of  the  Russian.  —Anecdote  of  the  latter — Aix- 
la-Chapelle.  —  Brussels. —Waterloo.  —Ostend.— Reach 
London.  -  -  -  "  ^^S^  *28 


TRAVELS    IN    RUSSIA. 


CHAP.  I. 

VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON    TO    ST.  PETERSBURG. 

CAUSE     OF     THE     JOURNEY.  —  LEAVE    LONDON.  —  TERRIBLE 

GALE.— PUT    INTO    GOTTENBURG.  —  REACH    ELSINEUR 

COPENHAGEN PORT     BALTIC MILITARY    INTRUDERS. 

CONDUCT    OF    THE    CUSTOM-HOUSE    OFFICERS    AT    CRON- 

STADT. DESCRIPTION      OF      CRONSTADT. CRONCHLOT. 

UNWARRANTABLE  DETENTION  AT  CRONSTADT. ARRIVAL 

AT  ST.  PETERSBURG.—  INQUISITORIAL  REGULATIONS  OF 
THE  POLICE  — THEIR  INEFFICACY.  —  REVOLT  OF  26th 
DECEMBER,  1825.  —  THE    EMPEROR    AND    COUNT    MILORA- 

DOVITCH. CENSORS. REGULATIONS    TO    PREVENT    THE 

IMPORTATION  OF  BOOKS  —  USELESS,  AND  OPENLY  BRO- 
KEN. —  REACH   COUNT    VORONTZOf's   HOUSE. 

Having  received  an  application  in  the  summer 
of  the  year  1827  to  undertake  the  office  of  tra- 
veiling  physician  to  their  Excellencies  the  Count 
and  Countess  Michel  Vorontzof,  I  was  induced 
to  accept  the  appointment ;  but  being  from  va- 
rious  circumstances  unable  to  leave  London  at 
the  period  proposed  for  their  departure,  another 
medical  attendant  was  necessarily  required  to 
accompany  them  during  the  journey  to  St.  Pe- 
tersburg,   and  accordingly  the  more  valuable 

B 


^i«i; 


2  VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 

services  of  my  late  colleague  Dr.  Granville  were 
secured  for  that  purpose.     Count  Vorontzof  had 
requested  me   to    proceed    by   land   direct   to 
Odessa,  and  to  await  his  arrival  or  farther  in- 
structions at  that  place ;  but  I  was  subsequently 
prevailed  upon   by  the  earnest  recpiest  of  his 
Excellency's  sister  to  go  by  sea  to  St  Petersburg, 
notwithstanding  the  advanced  period  of  the  year 
precluded  the  hope  of  an  agreeable  passage,  and 
indeed  materially  lessened  the  probability  of  its 
safety.     Accordingly,  on  Tuesday  (Oct.  9th),  I 
embarked  on  boaid  the  "  George  the  Fourth  " 
steam-vessel,  lying  opposite  the  London  Docks, 
and  after  the  delay  of  a  few  hours,  waiting  the 
arrival  of  despatches  from  the  English  govern- 
ment, we  commenced  our  voyage  at  one  o'clock 
on  the  following  morning.     The  weather  at  the 
time  of  our  leaving  the  river  was  rainy  and  tem- 
pestuous ;  and  upon  reaching  the  North  Sea  the 
next  evening  we  encountered  a  most  terrific  gale, 
to  attempt  any  adequate  description  of  which 
would  be  in  vain.      The  reader  will,  however, 
perhaps  believe  that  it  was  of  no  ordinary  kind 
when  I  state  that  our  commander,  a  veteran 
naval  officer,  of  whom  it  may  not  be  too  much 
to  say  that  his  great  coolness,  excellent  seaman- 
ship, and  unwearied  assiduity,  saved  the  ship, 
afterwards  observed,  "  that  he  had  been  at  sea 
for  thirty  years,  and  with  one  exception  only  had 
never  encountered  such  a  gale.*'     About  five 
o'clock  on  Thursday  morning  a  tremendous  sea 
burst  over  the  starboard  quarter,  dashed  the  stern 


TO    ST.  PETERSBURG.  S 

boat  to  atoms,  swept  along  the  poop,  carrying 
with  it  the  broken  fragments,  and  overwhelmed 

Major  C ,  a  fellow-passenger,  and  myself; 

wlio  were  standing  on  the  quarter-deck  by  the 
cabin  door,  all  the  other  passengers  being  below  : 
a  few  seconds  afterwards  part  of  the  larboard 
paddle-box  was   torn   off,  and  the  packing  of 
the  rudder  sustained  so  much  injury  that  the 
water  subsequently  was  continually  flooding  the 
cabin  floor  and  descending  through  the  hatches. 
Under  these  circumstances,  and  the  gale   still 
continuing,  the  Captain  resolved  to  make  the 
nearest  port,  and  on  Saturday  (Oct.  13th),  about 
noon,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  reach  Winga 
Sound  witliout  further  injury,  where  we  took  on 
board  two  pilots,  stood  in,  and  anchored  safely. 
Being  now  only  a  few  miles  from  Gottenburg, 
and  having  no  desire  to  remain  in  the  ship  any 
longer  than  was  absolutely  necessary,  a  party 
consisting  of  the  Major,  five  other  passengers' 
and  myself,  determined  upon  going  ashore  and 
stopping  there  until  the  vessel  should  be  again 
ready  for  sea ;  having  previously  ascertained  that 
this  would  not  take  place  before  the  following 
afternoon.     A  signal  was  accordingly  made  for  a 
boat,  in  which  we  embarked  and  steered  for  the 
shore. 

Gottenburg  is  a  pretty  place,  the  houses  are 
large  and  handsomely  built,  and  a  canal  comma- 
nicatmg  with  the  Sound  runs  through  most  of  the 
pnncipal  streets,  which  is  crossed  by  numerous 
bridges:  after  examining  the  town  sufficiently  to 

B  2 


VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 


satisfy  our  curiosity,  we  returned  to  our  hotel  for 

the  night. 

On  the  following  morning  (Oct.  14.),  we  letl 
Gottenburg,  and  arrived  again  on  board  about 
noon.    We  had  detained  the  Captain  some  time, 
who  finding   the    necessary  repairs   completed 
sooner  than  he   anticipated,    had   fired  several 
guns  for  our  information,  the  last  only  of  which 
we  observed ;  and  even  when  aware  that  he  re- 
quired our  presence,  we  were   unable  to  acce- 
lerate  the  motion  of  our  boat,  as  it  was  a  dead 
calm,  and  we  had  but  one  pair  of  oars  with  us. 
Once  more  on  board,  the  machinery  was  set  in 
motion,  and  Gottenburg  soon  faded  from   our 
view.     Nothing  particular  happened  from  this 
time,  until  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  we  reached 
Elsineur,  where  some  passengers  landed  :  about 
noon,  on  the  same  day,  the  vessel  arrived  at 
Copenhagen.     As  soon  as  we  had  cast  anchor, 
and   the  Captain   had   obtained   the   necessary 
permission  for  us  to  land,  several  of  our  num- 
ber left  the  ship  and  went  ashore  to  the  Hotel 
d' Angleterre.    On  approaching  Copenhagen,  the 
spectator  is  delighted  with  the  view,  and  on  land- 
ing  he  is  no  less  gratified :  the  houses  are  on  a 
large  scale,  and  present  beautiful  fa9ades ;  the 
streets  are  wide,  and  exceedingly  clean ;  the  inns 
are  good:  having,  as  far  as  our  limited  time 
would  allow,  inspected  the  principal  objects  of 
curiosity  in  the  town,  taken  a  drive  to  the  gardens 
of  Rosenburg,  the  Kensington  Gardens  of  Copen- 
ha^^en,  and  visited  several  other  places  in  the 


TO   ST.  PETERSBURG. 


environs,  we  returned  to  our  hotel,  where  a  good 
dinner  in  the  Danish  fashion  was  shortly  after- 
wards served  up,  and  we  passed  the  evening 
most  sociably  and  agreeably. 

At  ten  o'clock  (Oct.  1 6th)  we  re-embarked  on 
board  the  steam-vessel,  and  bade  adieu  to  Copen- 
hagen.  The  weather  now  became  fine,  and  con- 
tinued so  until  the  evening  of  the  18th,  when  it 
again  began  to  blow  fresh ;  and  during  the  whole 
of  this  night  we  were  exceedingly  annoyed  by 
the  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  vessel. 

Friday,  Oct.  19th.  —  At  the  commencement 
of  our  morning  promenade  on  deck  it  was  found 
that  we  had  been  for  some  hours  in  the  Gulf 
of  Finland:    the    weather  had    become   more 
boisterous,  and  the  rolling  in  consequence  more 
distressing.     In  the  evening  a  gentleman  and 
his  family,  who  had  formed  part  of  our  number 
from  London,  were  landed  at  Port  Baltic.     As 
soon  as  the  anchor  had  been  dropped  for  that 
purpose,  a  boat  was  manned  and  put  off  from 
the  shore   with  two  Russian  subaltern  oflScers, 
who  boarded  us  and  demanded  the  passports  of 
all  the  passengers.     Whether  they  did  this  with 
the  view  of  obtaining  a  bribe  for  any  indulgence 
which  they  might  afterwards  have  aflTected  to 
show  us  on  the   occasion  I  know  not,  but  it 
was  the  general  opinion  among  those  on  board, 
in  which  the  commander  coincided,  that  they 
could  have  no  right  or  orders  to  make  any  such 
demand,  with  which,  accordingly,  one  and  all 
refused  to  comply,  and  the  officers  ultimately 

B  3 


VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 


went  away  without  gaining  their  point;  the 
captain  merely  giving  them  a  list  of  passengers. 
Having  thus  got  rid  of  these  military  intruders, 
we  continued  our  course. 

Sunday,  Oct.  21st.  — About  four  o'clock  this 
morning  we  came  alongside  the  guardship  at 
Cronstadt,  and  immediately  anchored.  Here  it 
was  found  that  there  was  too  little  water  over  the 
bar  of  the  river  Neva  to  allow  of  our  getting  up 
to  St.  Petersburg,  and  in  consequence,  after  a  few 
hours'  delay,  the  vessel  was  finally  moored  op- 
posite to  the  mole.  A  number  of  custom-house 
officers  now  came  on  board,  and  immediately 
commenced  operations,  by  first  placing  the 
portmanteaus,  dressing  cases,  and  other  articles 
of  daily  use  belonging  to  the  passengers  in  their 
cabins,  and  then  affixing  to  the  doors  of  the 
latter  the  imperial  seal,  by  which  means  we 
were  at  once  deprived  not  only  of  our  luggage 
but  also  of  our  cabins.  Some  of  the  passengers 
remonstrated  with  them  upon  this  stretch  of 
authority,  by  means  of  an  English  gentleman, 
who  spoke  the  Russian  language  fluently,  but 
without  effect ;  and  upon  my  requesting  one  of 
the  superior  officers  merely  to  allow  me,  as  a 
favour,  to  take  out  my  rasors  and  some  clean 
linen,  he  peremptorily  refused,  adding  (being 
aware  of  the  nature  of  my  profession),  "  Doc- 
tors wear  their  shirts  for  twelve  days."  To  this, 
feeling  nettled  at  his  impudence,  I  replied, 
"  Very  probably  in  Russia,  but  not  in  England,'* 
which  answer  was  interpreted  to  him.     Having 


TO    ST.  PETERSBURG.  7 

thus  secured  all  the  smaller  luggage  which  was 
in  the  cabins,  tiiey  next  set  about  sealing  up  the 
hatches,    which  was  speedily  accomplished  by 
means  of  tape  and  a  kind  of  red  wax,  resembling 
that  used  by  modellers  in  this  country,  upon 
which,  being  merely  softened  by  the  warmth  of 
their  hands,  they  stamped  the  imperial  eagle: 
but  the  whole  was  performed  in  such  a  bungling 
manner  that  many  of  the  seals  afterwards  fell 
oft*  in   consequence   of  the   cold.     They    now 
found  out  that  there  was  a  communication  be- 
tween the  main-deck  and  our  cabin  by  means 
of  a  staircase,  and  this  also  they  considered  it 
their  duty  to  close.     It  was  in  vain  the  steward 
represented  to  them   that  the   provisions  were 
stowed  below,  and  that  if  the  avenue  in  question 
were  sealed,  the  passengers  would  be  deprived 
of  their  meals :  they  were   inexorable,  and  as 
industriously  as  ineffectually  proceeded  to  fulfil 
their  determination,    by  passing    an    immense 
quantity  of  small  tape  from  the  railings  on  one 
side  of  the  staircase  to  those  on  the  other,  thus 
forming  a  kind  of  irregular  network,  which  at 
the   knots   they  plastered   over   with   imperial 
seals  ;  but  fortunately  for  us   their  eyes   were 
either  not  very  correct,  or  they  had  forgotten 
the  average  size  of  a  man's  body  while  erectino- 
this  formidable  barrier  between  the  passengers 
and  the  good  things  below,  for  they  luckily  left 
several   of  the  meshes,  and   one  in  particular, 
so  large,  that  as  soon  as  they  had  quitted  the 
vessel  a  sailor  was  despatched  through  the  im- 

B    4 


8 


VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 


perial  and   autocratical  net,   who  handed   up 
whatever  was  necessary  in  the  steward's  depart- 
ment     All   this,   it   should  be   observed,  was 
done  in  spite  of  an  ukase,  in  which  it  is  ordered, 
that  the  passengers  by  the  "  George  the  Fourth" 
steam   packet   shall   be   allowed   to   disembark 
immediately  upon   her  arriving  at   St,  Peters- 
burg,  and  be  permitted  to  take  with  them  such 
wearing  apparel,  &c.  as   may  be  necessary  for 
their  use  on  landing.     But  as  the  vessel  had 
stopped  at  Cronstadt,  instead  of  St.  Petersburg, 
although   it  was  by  a  physical   necessity  over 
which  we  could  have  no  control,  and  which  was 
against  our  wishes,  they  either  thought,  or  af- 
fected to  think,  that  their  duty  was  to  act  in 
opposition  to  the  evident  intention  of  the  Im- 
perial decree ;  they  even  attempted  to  seal  up 
the  despatches  of  which  Sir  Henry  Willock,  who 
was  proceeding  by  this  conveyance,  in  a  diplo- 
matic capacity,  through  St.  Petersburg  to  Persia, 
was  the  bearer ;  notwithstanding  having  clearly 
made  them  understand  the  nature  of  his  official 
character,    he    strongly   protested   against  the 
measure,  and  immediately  sent  off  an  express  to 
Mr.  Disbrowe,  the  English  minister  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, informing  him   of  the  circumstance. 
Whether  the  bag  in  which  these  despatches  were 
contained  was  idtimately  sealed  or  not,  I  forget ; 
but  I  well  remember,  that  a  Russian  soldier  was 
left  in  charge  of  it,  with  strict  orders  not  to  let 
it  go  out  of  his  presence,  which  gave  rise  to  an 
amusing  scene,  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  Hogarth 


TO    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


or  of  Cruikshank.  The  despatches  had  been 
placed  with  some  of  Sir  Henry's  most  valuable 
luggage  in  the  ladies'  cabin  ;  and  as  it  would 
have  been  extremely  unpleasant  to  have  had  the 
soldier  constantly  there.  Sir  Henry,  who  very 
properly  was  determined  not  to  give  up  the 
point  and  allow  them  to  be  taken  from  his  cus- 
tody, had  the  bag  carried  into  an  adjoining 
small  cabin  which  happened  to  be  at  that  time 
unoccupied,  where  he  delivered  it  into  the  charge 
of  a  confidential  servant  of  his  own,  with  in- 
structions  similar,  and  not  less  peremptory,  than 
those  of  the  Russian  douanier ;  namely,  never 
to  lose  sight  of  it :  the  soldier  (who  it  was  well 
known  to  such  of  the  observers  as  were  ac- 
quainted with  the  character  of  those  of  his  rank 
and  nation  would  never  depart  from  the  letter  of 
his  orders)  followed  the  bag,  and  the  two  guar- 
dians actually  passed  the  night  together  in  the 
cabin  ;  the  soldier  sitting  on  one  side,  the  servant 
on  the  other,  the  unfortunate  bag  of  despatches, 
the  bone  of  contention,  being  placed  between 
them. 

Monday,  Oct.  22d.  —  This  morning  an  Impe- 
rial order  came  down  to  liberate  the  despatches 
and  luggage  of  Sir  Henry  Willock,  who  accord- 
ingly soon  after  set  off,  accompanied  by  his 
beautiful  and  amiable  lady,  to  St.  Petersburg. 
The  rest  of  the  passengers  were  not  so  lucky ; 
and  being  still  unable  to  obtain  our  baggage  we 
preferred  remaining  on  board,  where  we  had 
been  from  first  to  last  most  liberally  treated. 


i 


•I 


10 


VOYAGE  FROM  LONDON 


TO  ST. PETERSBURG. 


11 


Tuesday,  Oct.  23d.— After  much  trouble  we 
got  our   effects  carried  ashore   this  day  to  the 
harbour-master's  office,  expecting  we  should  be 
allowed  to  take  them  with  us  to  St.  Petersburg ; 
but  even  after  having  succeeded  in  getting  them 
on  board  the  small  steam-boat  which  plies  daily 
between  the  above  place  and  Cronstadt,  and  em- 
barked ourselves,  we  were  obliged,  once  more,  in 
spite  of  all  our  remonstrances  to  the  contrary, 
to   see   our  higgage  conveyed  to  the  harbour- 
master's office ;  and  not  choosing  to  go  without 
it,  were  of  course  compelled  again  to  disembark. 
To  this  unwarrantable  detention,  for  which  no 
plausible  reason  could  or  was  attempted  to  be 
assigned,  we  were  obliged,  not  having  the  means 
of  procuring  redress,  to  submit ;  and  I  have  been 
thus  particular  in  stating  all  tlie  foregoing  facts, 
extracted  from  my  journal  written  at  the  time, 
in  the  hope  that  they  may  find  their  way  into 
Russia,  and,  perhaps,  tend  to  prevent  such  abuses 
in  future  ;  abuses  which  cannot  in  any  way  benefit 
the  government,  but,  on  the  contrary,  materially 
contribute  to   its  discredit.      It  must  here   be 
mentioned,  that  I  afterwards  heard,  while  at  St 
Petersburg,  that  it  had  been  asserted,  in  excuse 
lor  the  infamous  conduct  of  the  custom-house 
officers,  when  some  slight  enquiry  was  made  into 
the  affair,  *'  that  the  captain  of  the  "  George  the 
Fourth"  did  not  stop  at  the  guard-ship  as  he 
oujxht  to  have  done."   Now  this  was  a  most  bare- 
faced  falsehood,  which  could  have  been  disproved 
by  the  whole  of  the  passengers  and  ship's  company, 


had  those,  whose  office  it  was,  made  the  necessary 
enquiries  ;  but  it  is  most  probable  that  the  state- 
ment was  at  once  admitted  to  be  true,  without 
any  proof  whatever  being  adduced,  and  the  offi- 
cers, no  doubt,  reported  as  having  conscientiously 
and  faithfully  performed  their  duty  to  the  Em- 
peror and  the  government :  "  Ex  uno  disce  om- 
nes."  The  indefatigable  and  talented  author  of 
"  St.  Petersburg  "  *  has  drawn  a  comparison  be- 
tween the  annoyances  experienced  at  the  Russian 
and  English  custom-houses,  and  seems  to  be  of 
opinion,  that  they  are  carried  to  the  same  extent 
in  our  own  country  as  in  any  other ;  concluding 
with  the  following  observation :  "  But  as  such 
evils,  it  seems,  must  exist,  and  as  England  has 
them  in  a^ full  force  as  any  other  nation  in  Europe^ 
let  us  be  just,  and  not  grumble  against  foreigners 
for  following  a  similar  system."  After  having 
myself  passed  through  the  ordeal  of  the  French, 
Belgic,  Prussian,  Bavarian,  Austrian,  Russian, 
and  English  custom-houses,  I  must  observe,  that 
I  cannot  agree  with  the  foregoing  sentiments, 
but,  on  the  contrary,  do,  without  hesitation,  de- 
clare it  to  be  my  firm  opinion,  that  the  annoy- 
ances met  with  at  the  Russian  ports  and  frontiers! 

*  Vide  "  St.  Petersburg,"  vol.  i.  p.  356.  2d  edit. 

t  At  Radzivilof,  the  Russian  frontier  town  opposite  to 
Brody  in  Austria,  the  douaniers  having  examined  my  bag- 
gage, refused  to  lift  up  the  barrier  unless  I  gave  them  some 
money ;  and  after  having  been  detained  at  least  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  I  was  obliged  to  submit  to  their  extortions,  and 
not  till  then  was  I  allowed  to  pass. 


12 


VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 


by  far  outbalance  those  in  all  the  other  countries 
of  Europe.    The  details  which  have  just  been 
given  of  what  took  place  upon  my  arrival   at 
Cronstadt  will,  I  trust,  fully  bear  me  out  m  this 
assertion,  without  mentioning  what  I  expenenced 
at  a  future  period  at  Radzivilof  when  quitting 
the  country.    In  fact,  the  Russian  custom-house 
is  the  only  one  at  which  I  have  undergone  any 
other  inconveniences  than  those  inseparable  from 
the  system ;  and  in  Russia  alone  did  I  ever  meet 
with  any  personal  impudence  from  the  officers. 
The  few  remaining  passengers,  including  myself, 
were  now,  by  successive  departures,  reduced  to 
four;  and  having  finally  left  our  comfortable 
quarters  on  board  the  **  George  the  Fourth,"  we 
repaired  to  a  large  inn  kept  by  an  Englishman 
named  Stewart ;  where  we  had  to  submit  to  the 
greatest  inconveniences  during  our  stay,  from  the 
want  of  those  comforts  which  the  unjustifiable 
detention  of  our  luggage  necessarily  occasioned. 

CRONSTADT 

is  built  upon  an  island,  about  eight  versts  in 
length  by  one  in  breadth,  situated  in  the  Gulf 
of  Finland,  and  is  distant  ^29  versts  from  St. 
Petersburg,  in  which  government  it  is  compre- 
hended. It  consists  of  a  town,  fortress,  military 
port,  and  admiralty.  It  was  a  desert  island  until 
Peter  the  Great  commenced  building  a  port  and 
town  there  in  I7IO,  which  did  not,  however, 
receive  the  name  of  Cronstadt  untd  the  year 
1721.     The  town  is  defended  towards  the  south 


TO    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


IS 


by  the  fortifications  of  the  port,  and  on  all  the 
other  sides  by  a  rampart  of  earth  and  bastions 
furnished  with  numerous  pieces  of  artillery.  At 
the  northern  extremity  of  the  island  is  Fort 
Alexander  and  the  battery  of  St  John,  con- 
structed upon  piles  in  the  water.  The  fort  of 
Cronchlot,  built  upon  a  sand  bank  within  range 
of  the  guns  of  Cronstadt,  serves  also  for  its  de- 
fence. This,  too,  was  constructed  by  Peter  the 
Great  during  the  winter  of  1703-4  as  an  addi- 
tional security  to  St.  Petersburg,  the  vessels 
which  proceed  to  that  capital  passing  between 
Cronchlot  and  Cronstadt,  and  being  within  can- 
non-sliot  of  both.  To  return  to  Cronstadt :  — 
The  streets  are  laid  out  in  straight  lines  in  the 
direction  of  the  longest  diameter  of  the  island, 
and  the  buildings,  which  are  frequently  on  a 
large  scale,  consist  for  the  most  part  of  magazines 
and  edifices  devoted  to  the  public  service.  The 
houses  are  generally  of  wood,  with  the  exception 
of  those  in  the  Grand  Square.  There  are  five 
Russian  churches  in  Cronstadt,  and  the  popula- 
tion, it  is  said,  amounts  to  about  40,000  souls, 
composed  chiefly  of  men  employed  in  the  fleet, 
in  the  government  offices  and  works,  and  of 
soldiers  for  the  garrison  and  their  families.  The 
best  house,  perhaps,  in  the  town  is  that  inhabited 
by  the  English  vice-consul.  Cronstadt  is  the 
grand  depot  for  the  Russian  navy  and  for  naval 
stores.  It  has  three  large  and  commodious  ports ; 
the  merchant  port,  situated  towards  the  west, 
capable  of  containing  a  great  number  of  vessels  y 


u 


VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 


I 


that  devoted  exclusively  to  ships  of  war,  towards 
the  east ;  and  a  third  between  the  two  preceding, 
for  the  reception  of  other  vessels  belonging  to 
the  crown.     It  is  in  this  latter  port  that  the  men 
of  war  are  rigged  and  unrigged.     These  ports 
are   defended  on  the  sea-side  by  bastions  well 
furnished  with  artillery.     Cronstadt  suffered  con- 
siderable  damage  during  the  inundation  which 
produced  such  dreadful  consequences  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg a  few  years  ago,  the  effects  of  which 
are  still  visible  in  the  former  place,  and  this  awful 
visitation  has  led  to  the  consideration  of  various 
plans  for  its  improvement.     We  were  told  that 
some  time  since  a  terrible  fire  happened  in  the 
deal.yard ;  and  afterwards,  when  the  wood  had 
been  consumed  and  the  ashes  were  removing, 
several  large  anchors  were  found  which  had  evi- 
dently  belonged  to  the  Imperial  navy,  and  no 
doubt  had  been  clandestinely  conveyed  there  and 
hidden,  in  order  subsequently  to  be  disposed  of, 
but  how  or  by  whom  was  never  discovered ;  how- 
ever, the  governor  of  the  island,  who  was  consi- 
dered, and  perhaps  with  good  reason,  as  being 
in  some  way  or  other  connected  with  the  trans- 
action, was  sent  off  to  Siberia,  the  universal 
punishment  for  all  real  or  pretended  criminals. 
In  order  to  hinder  the  flames  from  spreading,  should 
a  similar  accident  again  occur  in  the  deal-yard, 
a  number  of  workmen  are  busily  employed  cutting 
a  broad  canal  which  will  completely  surround  it. 
On  our  arrival  at  Cronstadt  we  were  much  struck 
with  the  appearance  of  the  Russian  labourers  j 


TO   ST.  PETERSBURG. 


15 


great  fellows  with  long  beards,  clothed  in  sheep- 
skins,  the  wool  turned  inwards,  high  boots,  fur 
caps,  and  large  gloves  having  only  two  divisions 
for  the  thumb  and  the  fingers.  A  ftiend  of  mine 
told  me  that  his  wife,  a  young  English  lady,  upon 
landing  at  Cronstadt,  was  literally  frightened  at 
beholding  these  bearded  savages. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  24th.  —  Having  been  allowed 
this  day,  beyond  our  expectations,  to  regain  pos- 
session of  our  effects,  we  embarked  once  more 
on  board  the  steam-boat  bound  for  St.  Peters- 
burg, before  the  sailing  of  which,  however,  our 
passports  were  demanded  by  a  soldier  and  de- 
tained; those  which  we  had  brought  with 
us  from  the  Russian  authorities  in  London  hav- 
ing  been  exchanged  the  day  after  our  arrival  at 
Cronstadt  for  others  granted  by  the  admiral  of 
the  port,  upon  whom  we  had  to  wait  personally 
for  that  purpose.  After  a  cold  voyage  of  about 
three  hours  and  a  half  we  reached  St.  Peters- 
burg,  and  were  allowed  to  land,  but  the  luggage 
was  carried  to  the  custom-house.  I  and  my 
companions  having  mounted  a  couple  of  dros- 
chies,  set  off  for  the  London  Hotel,  corner  of 
the  Nevskoi  Prospekt,  where  we  arrived  almost 
worn  out  with  fatigue.  As  soon  as  we  had  en- 
tered and  intimated  our  intention  of  passing  the 
night  there,  our  names  and '  professions  were 
required  to  be  written  down  for  the  purpose  of 
being  sent  to  the  police  for  the  information  of 
the  government.  I  do  not  object  to  this  regu. 
lation  in  particular,  which  is  followed,  as  is  well 


IQ  VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 

known,  in  most  of  the  towns  on  tlie  Continent, 
but  the  pitch  to  which  the  inquisitorial  system 
is  pursued  in  the  Russian  metropohs  upon  other 
occasions  is  truly  ridiculous,  without,  as  it  ap- 
pears to  me,  any  corresponding  advantage  bemg 
attained  ;  thus,  you  cannot  even  pay  a  visit  to 
any  of  the  palaces  or  other  objects  worthy  o 
notice  in  the  environs,  without  giving  an  account 
at  the  barrier  of  who  you  are  and  where  you  are 
going,  though  of  what  use  such  information  can 
be  to'those  who  require  it,  I  am  wholly  un.^le 
to  conceive.     What  would  an  Enghshman  say, 
if  upon  determining  to  make  an  excursion  to 
High-ate,  for  instance,  accompanied  perhaps  by 
his  wrte  and  family,  he  were  to  be  stopped  at 
Se  New  Road,  and  detained  until  he  had  given 
bis  name  and  theirs,  and  stated  where^l^  was 
coiner  to  ?  —  yet  the  system  followed  m  M.  1  e- 
fersirurg  is  as  absurd.     "  The  man  whom  many 
fear,  must  needs  fear  many  :  "  to  the  continual 
suspicion  and  dread,  which  are  ever  attendants 
upo'n  an  autocrat,  must  be  fributed  the  minu^ 
ramifications  of  the  Imperial  espionage  m  Russia, 
yeTsuch  is  the  corrupted  state  of.  perhaps  n.ost 
of  its  branches,  and  the  want  of  union  in  all 
that  I  wUl  venture  to  assert,  that,  as  tar  as 
resnects  facts  of  importance,  the  Russian  go- 
vemml  knows  much  less  of  what  is  actually 
Ta^incr  in  St.  Petersburg  than  the  English  does 
oHh^t  is  going  on  in  London,  where  no  such 
lltil  regulations  exist     As  an  insU-e  ^^ 
this  it  may  be  sufficient  to  mention,  having 


TO    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


17 


heard  during  my  residence  in  the  former  city, 
that   Count   Miloradovitch,    who   was   military 
governor  of  St.  Petersburg  at  the  time  of  the 
memorable  revolt  on   the  2(3th  of  Dec.  1825 
when  the  present  Emperor  ascended  the  throne, 
upon  being  previously  informed  by  his  Majesty 
that  he  strongly  suspected  a  plot   against  the 
Imperial  family  and  the  government  was  hatch- 
ing, and  would  soon  be  put  in  execution,  assured 
the  Emperor,  most  positively,  that  no  such  thing 
could  e^ist,  it  being  impossible  for  him  to  be 
unacquainted  with  such  a  scheme,  were  it  really 
in  agitation,  as  he  had  "  spies  in  every  quarter, 
and   almost   in   every  house.'*     The  Emperor, 
however,  persisted  in  asserting  his  conviction  as 
to  the  correctness  of  his  own  information,  and 
even  mentioned  the  names   of  several   of  the 
conspirators;    to  which  Miloradovitch  replied, 
that  his  Majesty  must  be  mistaken,  as  many  of 
those  alluded  to  were  among  the  number  of  his  in- 
timate  friends ;  and  with  this  assurance  the  Count 
and  his  Imperial  master  separated.     The  result 
fully  proved  that  the  intelligence  •  conveyed  to 
the  Emperor  was  true,  and  that  the  rebels  had 
contrived  to  deceive  the  military  governor,  who 
soon  afterwards  fell  a  sacrifice  to  their  fury. 

Thursday,   Oct.  25th.  -  At  ten  o'clock  this 
mornmg.  Major  C.  and  I  hired  two  droschies,  and 

*  This  intelligence  was  supplied  to  the  Emperor  directly 
by  one  of  the  conspirators,  who,  to  save  himself,  informed 
against  his  companions  in  guilt,  and  was  not,  therefore, 
received  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  police. 


i 


I! 


l^  VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 

proceeded  to  the  custom-house,  in  order  to  get 

our  bamage  passed.  . 

Having  selected  the  various  packages  wh.ch 
belonged  to  us,  and  unlocked  then,    the.r  con- 
tents were  speedily  strewed  on  the  floor  of  the 
large  building  in  which  we   were,  and  almost 
every  article  examined  singly,  and  in  the  most 
dUatory  manner  possible.     The  printed  books, 
of  whatever  description,  were  put  by  themselves 
into  a  heap,  and  for  some  time  I  was  at  a  loss  to 
imagine  what  the  officers  intended  to  do  with 
them ;    however,  when  all  had  been  collected, 
they  packed  them  up  in  paper  parcels,  and  these 
they  securely   fastened   with  thin  cord,  to  the 
ends  of  which  were  afterwards  affixed  small  cir- 
cular  pieces  of  lead,  upon  which  was  ultimately 
stamped  the  Imperial  Eagle :  but  before  the  ex- 
amination of  all  our  luggage  was  completed,  or 
any  of  the  necessary  papers  prepared,  the  officers 
suddenly  departed  en  masse,  leaving  only  a  tew 
mougics  in  charge  of  the  place,  which  at  the  time 
somewhat  amazed  us.   being  wholly  unable  to 
guess  the  cause  of  their  retreat.   They  did  not 
return  for  at  least  a  couple  of  hours;  and  we 
afterwards  found  that  they  had  actually  left  us 
in  the  manner  just  described,  notwithstanding 
that  the  public  business  necessarily  remained 
stationary  during  their  absence,  in  order  to  be 
present  at  the  launch  of  a  first-rate  ship  of  war, 
the  Alexander,  which  was  to  take  place  that  day 
upon  the  Neva!   affording  a  specimen,  by  no 
means  the  most  creditable,  of  the  disciphne  ex- 


TO   ST.  PETERSBURG. 


19 


isting  among  the  employes  at  the  Russian  custom- 
house. Some  time  after  the  launch  was  effected 
these  gentlemen  returned  to  their  occupations ; 
and  the  necessary  papers  having  been  com- 
pleted, the  duties,  where  incurred,  liquidated, 
and  a  few  roubles,  upon  their  being  demanded, 
given  under  the  pretence  of  drink  money,  with- 
out which,  the  business  would  never  have  been 
concluded,  we  had  at  last,  when  it  was  beginning 
to  grow  dark,  the  pleasure  of  hearing  that  we 
were  at  liberty  to  take  our  effects  from  under  the 
charge  of  hisImperialMajesty's  servants.*  Before, 
however,  the  packets  which  contained  our  books 
were  delivered  to  us,  we  were  obliged  to  enter 
into  a  bond,  to  deliver  them  unopened,  within  a 
given  time,  to  the  censors  for  examination :  this 
latter  regulation,  it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  add, 
is  in  order  to  prevent  the  circulation  of  works 

♦  We  were  detained  from  six  to  seven  hours  in  having 
the  luggage  of  four  persons  examined  (my  own  consisting 
merely  of  two  portmanteaus  and  a  small  medicine  chest), 
without  including  the  time  afterwards  occupied  in  sending 
the  books  to  the  censors  for  examination,  and  the  delay  of 
two  days  before  we  received  them  again ;  to  all  which  must 
be  added  the  five  days  that  our  luggage  was  detained  at 
Cronstadt,  where  the  officers  would  neither  examine  it  them- 
selves, nor  allow  it  to  proceed  to  St.  Petersburg,  where  they 
knew  it  could  not  be  landed  without  passing  the  custom 
house. 

"  The  operation  of  examining  and  clearing  the  luggage" 
(at  the  custom-house  at  St.  Petersburg),  "  is  performed  much 
in  the  same  manner  as  at  the  King's  warehouses  in  London, 
and  occupies  but  a  short  time.''  —  St.  Petersburgh,  vol.  i. 
p.  442. 

C   9 


i 


ClQ  VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON 

within  the  Russian  empire,  the  politics  or  prin- 
ciples  of  which  are  not  palatable  to  the  govern- 
xnent :  but,  as  a  proof  how  futile  is  the  endeavour 
by  such  means  to  prevent  books  of  the  above 
description  from  being  imported,while  the  present 
venality  of  the  officers  employed  at  the  various 
custom-houses  throughout  the   country  exists, 
and  how  completely  the  imperial  ukases  on  the 
subject  are  disregarded,  I  may  just  state  the  fact 
of  having  myself  read  several  of  the  prohibited 
publications,  during  my  late  sojourn  in  Rus^a ; 
among  which  were  "  Lyall's  Travels,"  and  -  The 
Adventures  of  Hajji  Baba  in  England  ^  having 
found  them  most  conspicuously  placed,  bound, 
and  lettered  in  the  library  of  a  noble  Russian, 
whose  name,  for  obvious  reasons,  I  do  not  men- 
tion      I  am  indeed  convinced,  from  experience, 
that  such  prohibitions  are  extremely  injudicious, 
and  defeat  the  object  they  are  intended  to  answer: 
if  no  measures  were  taken  to  prevent  the  circu- 
lation  of  particular  books,  fewer  persons  would  de- 
sire  to  see  them  ;  but  no  sooner  is  it  known  that 
a  publication  is  forbidden,  than  general  cuno- 
sity  is  excited,  and  it  is  read,  in  many  mstances, 
merely  because  it  is  prohibited. 

However,  to  return  from  this  digression,  our 
luggage  being  now  passed,  we  hired  an  ishvost- 
chickr-  with  his  clumsy  narrow  truck  draw«  by 
one  horse,  upon  which,  after  much  difficulty,  it 
was  placed,  and  secured  with  a  monstrous  rope. 
We  then  commenced  our  march  from  the  custom- 

♦  Ishvostchicks  are  the  drivers  of  public  carriages. 


TO   ST.  PETERSBURG. 


21 


house,  congratulating    ourselves  on  having,   at 
length,  escaped  from  it :  but  the  pleasant  feel- 
ings  which  were  thus  momentarily  excited,  were 
soon  dispelled  by  the  prospect  of  other  serious 
inconveniences ;  for,  on  arriving  near  the  bank 
of  the  Neva,  at  the  place  where   the  floating 
"  Isaac  Bridge "  ordinarily  extends  across,  we 
found  the  latter  gone,  having  been  removed  in 
preparing  for  the  launch  already  alluded  to,  and 
it  had  not  yet  been  restored  to  its  place  ;  we  had, 
therefore,  to  bend  our  course  almost  in  an  oppo- 
site direction,  witli  the  disagreeable  knowledge 
that  it  would,  in  consequence,  be  prolonged  se- 
veral versts.     By  this  time,  too,  we  began  to  be 
exceedingly  dissatisfied  with  the  ishvostchick,  who 
was  determined,  Russian-like,  to  stow  the  luggage 
in  no  other  than  his  own  way ;  and  his  self-sufl 
ficiency  being  only  equalled  by  his  stupidity, 
and  the  nature  of  his  clumsy  vehicle  admirably 
adapted  to  facilitate  the  tumbling  of  its  load  upon 
the  ground,  the  consequence  of  these  objection- 
able  qualities  in  the  carriage  and  its  conductor 
were,  that  first  one  box  fell  off,  and  then  another, 
till  the  frequent  repetition  of  such  accidents  ob- 
liged  the  Major  and  myself  to  act  alternately  as 
the  rear  guard,  and  to  give  notice  of  their  occur- 
rence to  the  obstinate  driver,  who,  without  this 
precaution,  would  have  left  several  packages  un- 
observed upon  the  road ;  and  it  may  easily  be 
believed,  that  after  the  fatigues  and  disappoint- 
ments of  the  day,  and  the  absence  of  all  refresh- 
ment, from  the  time  we  had  left  our  inn  in  the 

c  3 


22 


VOYAGE    FROM    LONDON,  &C. 


23 


morning,  we  were  not  sorry  to  arrive  with  our 
baggage  at  a  place  of  repose,  namely,  the  Major's 
temporary  lodgings  near  the  Cazan  church,  where 
we  dined,  and  in  the  evening  I  took  up  my  quar- 
ters at  the  residence  of  Count  Vorontzof,  in  the 

Mala  Morskoi. 

Saturday,  Oct.  27th.— This  morning  I  called 
upon  the  censors  with  my  packet  of  books,  which, 
after  being  examined,  was  re-delivered  to  me, 
and  1  returned  to  the  Count's  mansion,  where, 
in  the  evening,  the  scene  was  completely  changed 
by  the  arrival  of  His  Excellency,  the  Countess 
Vorontzof,  and  Dr.  Granville. 


i 


CHAP.  II. 


RESIDENCE    IN   ST.  PETERSBURG. 

ST.    PETERSBURG.  —  VISIT     TO     THE     LITOFSKY     PRISON.  — 
THE     AUTHOR    OF    "  ST.    PETERSBURG,"    AND    THE    OTHER 

WRITERS     UPON     RUSSIA. MASQUERADE     AT     COURT. 

CEREMONY   OF    BLESSING    THE    WATERS    OF    THE    NEVA. 

THE     BATTLE     OF      NAVARINO     AND      THE      RUSSIANS.  

RUSSIAN     MOUNTAINS. ABDICATION     OF      THE      GRAND 

DUKE     CONSTANTINE.  —  MRS.    COCHRANE. BEAUTY     OF 

THE    RUSSIAN    LADIES,    THEIR     EDUCATION,    &C ALEX- 
ANDER POUSCHKINE. EQUIPAGES    OF    THE    RUSSIANS. 

NUMBER      OF     MURDERS     IN     RUSSIA     AND      ENGLAND.  

RUSSIAN    SERVAGE.  —  CAPITAL    PUNISHMENTS  IN  RUSSIA. 

RUSSIAN      STOVES.  SYSTEM     OP     RUSSIAN     POSTING, 

INFAMOUS     CONDUCT    OF     THE    POSTMASTERS,    &C THE 

LATE  GEORGE  DAWE,  ESQ.    R.A. CONDITION  OF  MEDICAL 

OFFICERS    IN  THE  RUSSIAN  ARMY,  &C.  —  MADAME 

AND    THE   AUTHOR   OF   "  ST.   PETERSBURG." 


ST.  PETERSBURG. 

St.  Petersburg  is  a  city  of  palaces  towards  the 
streets,  and  exteriorly  presents  the  appearance 
of  great  magnificence  ;  but  the  parts  of  those 
palaces  which  do  not  meet  the  eye  of  the  ordi- 
nary passenger,  being  let  out  into  separate 
tenements,  are  filled  with  the  lowest  inhabitants, 
and  are  of  the  most  filthy  description.  It  may 
suit  the  taste  of  a  Russian  seigneur,  and  the  stata 

c  4f 


L 


24 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG, 


of  his  purse,  to  have  the  ground  floor  of  his  man- 
sion  occupied  as  a  brandy  shop,  to  inhabit  merely 
the  upper  stories  himself,  and  to  fill  the  inner 
court  with  persons  of  low  condition ;  but,  what- 
ever conveniences  such  arrangements  might  pos- 
sess in  a  pecuniary  point  of  view,  they  would  never 
for  a  moment  be  contemplated  by  an  English 
nobleman.     The  latter,  I  have  no  doubt,  would 
prefer  having  the  "  abodes  of  the  lowest  classes 
in  wretched  courts  and  lanes,''  rather  than  they 
should  obtrude  themselves  within  his  walls.     In 
Russia,  every  thing  is  sacrificed  to  external  show  : 
as  children  seize  upon  the  most  gaudily  painted 
toys  instead  of  those  things  which  are  the  most 
useful  or  of  the  greatest  intrinsic  value,  so  the 
Russians  build  immense  houses  which  contain 
no  comforts.     The  rooms  are  almost  universally 
destitute  of  carpets ;  and,  when  this  is  not  com- 
pletely the  case,  one  room  alone  can  boast  of 
that  distinction.     The  furniture  is  rude  indeed 
when  compared  with  the  elegant  articles  to  be 
procured  in  London  ;  and  instead  of  the  beau- 
tiful lustres  of  this  country,  you  generally  find, 
in  the  mansions  of  the  nobility  at  St.  Petersburg, 
a  lamp  of  tin,  japanned,  or  painted  and  gilt, 
suspended  from  the  ceiling  :  even  the  apartments 
of  the  imperial  palace,  which  the   public   are 
allowed  to  see,  although  they  contain  many  va- 
luable   articles,   appear    unfiirnished    from   the 
want  of  carpets  and  draperies.     St.  Petersburg 
is  a  city  of  extremes :  it  is  grand  certainly,  and 
makes  a  strong  impression  upon  the  stranger  at 


V 


\\ 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


25 


his  first  arrival ;  but  this  impression  soon  wears 
off,  and  its  cause  will,  I  believe,  be  found  to 
consist  simply  in  the  vastness  of  all  he  sees,  and 
not  in  the  excellence  or  beauty  of  the  objects 
individually.     With  the  sole  exception  of  the 
edifice  appropriated  to  the  Etat  Major  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, the  public  buildings  are   not   to   be 
compared  with  those  applied  to  similar  purposes 
in  London  ;  some,  indeed,  being  of  wood.    The 
Cazan  church,   when  seen   for   the   first   time, 
strikes  the  beholder  as  an  imposing  structure, 
yet  he  is  at  the  same  time  dissatisfied  with  it, 
and  he  soon  becomes  disgusted  with  its  glaring 
defects:    the  centre  of  the  building   bears  no 
proportion  to  its  lateral  parts:  it  is  all  wings  and 
no  body ;  and  the  dome  or  cupola  is  too  small 
and  has  not  sufficient  altitude.     Were  St.  Paul's 
by  its  side,  the  superiority  of  the  latter  would  be 
striking :  indeed  no  comparison  can  be  instituted 
between  them.     Where  shall  we  find,  in  St.  Pe- 
tersburg,   an    edifice   equal    to   our  venerable 
Westminster  Abbey?  The  convent  of  St.  Alex- 
ander Nevskoi  cannot  be  put   in   competition 
with  it.  The  Post  Office  in  St.  Martin's  le  Grand 
is  a  striking  and  elegant  piece  of  architecture : 
so,  in  a  less  degree,  is  the  Bank  of  England ; 
while  the  Post  Office  of  the  Russian  metropohs 
has  nothing  in  its  exterior  to  recommend  it,  nor 
has  the  Assignation  Bank,  which,  on  the  contrary, 
is  a  mean  building.     The  Winter  Palace  is  an 
immense  structure,  but  cannot,  in  my  opinion, 
be  compared  as   to  its  beauty  with  Somerset 


f 


I 


c^t)  RESIDENCK    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 

House.     The   only  edifice   to   which  we   have 
nothing  equal  or  similar  is  the  Etat  Major:  this 
is  certainly  a  most  splendid  and  magnificent  pile 
of  building;  but  I  venture  to  ask  if  its  greatness 
may  not  be  the  principal  cause  of  the  admiration 
it  excites.   The  Russian  churches  are,  m  general, 
whimsical  buildings,  having  four,  five,  or  more 
Byzantine  or  bulbous-shaped  cupolas,  surmounted 
with  crosses  of  iron,  which  appear  to  be  secured 
from  falling  by  ropes.     It  would  be  absurd  to 
compare  these  with  the  sacred   edifices  distin- 
.niished  by  architectural  elegance  abounding  in 
our  metropolis.     The  Nevskoi  Prospekt,  though 
disfi-ured  by  the  little  trees  on  each  side,  which 
loolTlike  rows  of  mops,  is  a  fine  street,  but 
is  vastly  inferior  to  our  Regent  Street,  which  is, 
perhaps,  without  exception,  the  finest  specimen 
of  the  kind  in  Europe.    The  shops  in  St.  Peters, 
burc^  are  of  the  shabbiest  description.      W  ith 
respect  to  the  Gastincii-Dvor,  I  difier  completely 
in  opinion  with  the  author  of  -  St.  Petersburg, 
and  I  doubt  much  the  correctness  of  his  asser- 
tion   that   "  whatever  imagination   can  devise 
with  respect  to   the  necessaries,  conveniences, 
and  even  luxuries  of  life,  is  to  be  found  in  this 
place."    Vol.  ii.  417.     This  may  be  said  truly 
of  London,  and,  perhaps,  of  Paris,  but  not  of 
St  Petersburg,  and  unquestionably  not  of  the 
Gastinoi-Dvor  of  that  city. 

In  Russia,  as  I  have  before  observed,  every 
thing  is  made  for  outward  appearance  and  for 
show :  the  government,  as  well  as  private  indi- 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


S7 


viduals,  are  all  influenced  by  this  principle,  and 
it  may  be  found  every  w^here  and  in  every  thing 
if  the  observer  will  only  take  the  trouble  to  trace 
it.  Thus  we  see  large  houses  w4th  little  in 
them :  fifty  employes  having  scarcely  the  means 
of  existence,  with  little  to  do,  instead  of  half 
that  number  well  paid  and  well  occupied: 
finally,  crosses,  ribands,  and  stars,  instead  of 
liberal  pay  or  pensions  ;  and  magnificent  pro- 
mises never  fulfilled ;  —  the  shadow  for  the 
reality :  —  Such,  such  is  Russia. 

VISIT  TO  THE  LITOFSKY  PRISON. 

In  consequence  of  Count  Vorontzof  having 
used  his  influence  in  procuring  the  necessary 
permission  for  Dr.  Granville  and  myself  to  view 
several  of  the  public  establishments  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, together  with  the  politeness  of  his  aides  de 
camp,  who,  at  his  Excellency's  request,  accom- 
panied us,  and  from  whom  we  received  much 
valuable  information,  we  enjoyed  unusual  oppor- 
tunities of  examining  almost  every  institution 
worthy  of  notice  in  the  Russian  metropolis. 

Thus  we  visited  the  rising  walls  of  the  new 
Isaac  Church,  the  Admiralty,  the  Winter  Palace, 
Hermitage,  Botanic  Gardens,  Hotel  des  Mines, 
&c.,  and  made  excursions  to  the  imperial  palaces 
of  Peterhofi)  Tzarsco-Celo,  and  Paulofsky,  as 
well  as  to  Strelna,  the  residence  of  the  Grand 
DukeConstantine,toTchesme  and  CatharinhofF; 
but  as  it  would  be  in  vain  for  me  to  attempt  any 
farther  description  of  these  places,  or  of  our 


28 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


journeys  to  them,  after  the  minute  account  re- 
specting both  which  has  been  given  in  "  St. 
Petersburg,"  I  shall  confine  myself  to  those 
institutions  or  ceremonies  which  were  neither 
seen  nor  described  by  the  above-mentioned 
industrious  author.  Amongst  these,  perhaps,  no 
one  is  more  dee})ly  interesting  to  tlie  British 
philanthropist  than 

THE    LITOFSKY    PRISON, 

or  prison  of  the  town  of  St.  Petersburg,  from  the 
remembrance  that  it  was  our  immortal  Howard 
who  first  attempted  to  alleviate  the  aggravated 
sufferings  experienced  by  the  then  inmates  of  this 
abode  of  misery,  and  that  it  owes  its  present  im- 
proved state  (like  most  institutions  in  Russia)  to 
English  regulations  and  the  valuable  and  efficient 
superintendence  of  an  Englishman. 

Saturday,  Dec.  3d.  —  General  Balabine,  one 
of  the  generals  of  gendarmes,  the  highest  branch 
of  police  in  the  empire,  being  informed  of  my 
desire  to  visit  the  Litofsky  prison,  very  kindly 
made  the  offer  of  accompanying  me  thither. 

Accordingly,  on  the  day  mentioned  above,  the 
General  went  with  me  to  the  house  of  Mr. 
Venning,  an  Englishman,  who  is  director  of  the 
committee  of  prison  discipline,  which,  formed 
upon  the  plan  of  the  society  similarly  named  in 
London,  has  already  done  much  towards  im- 
proving the  prison  discipline  of  St.  Petersburg, 
and  will  probably  continue  to  do  so  :  but  unfor- 
tunately societies  of  this  description  cannot  pro- 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


29 


duce  the  same  beneficial  effects  in  Russia  that 
they  do  in  this  country,  owing  to  the  despotic 
nature  of  the  government,  since  they  can  only 
employ  themselves  about  the  minor  topics,  such 
as  the  diet  and  moral  treatment  of  the  prisoners, 
but  must  not  interfere  with  or  enquire  about  those 
which  are  far  more  important,  namely,  the  causes 
xvhich  have  brought  them  there.  Subsequent  ex- 
perience  taught  me  this  fact. 

After  the  inspection  of  some  plans  relating  to 
the  enquiries  we  were  engaged  in,  General  Bala- 
bine,  Mr.  Venning,  and  I,  continued  our  drive  to 
tlie  prison,  the  object  of  investigation.     It  was 
erected,  it  seems,  many  years  ago  for  a  gaol  by 
the  Empress  Catharine  the  Second ;  but,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  state  of  affairs  at  the  time,  and  it 
having  upon  some  occasion  been  publicly  called 
"  the  Bastile,"  the  intention  was  dropped,  and  it 
was  converted  into  barracks  for  soldiers,  to  which 
use  it  has  of  late  ceased  to  be  applied,  and  is  re- 
appropriated  to  the  purpose  originally  contem- 
plated.     It  is  a  most  incommodious  building, 
and  by  no  means  adapted  to  the  end  for  which 
it  was   constructed.     The  gates,   as  we  were 
informed,  are  the  very  same  which  were  made  by 
the  direction  of  our  countryman  Howard.    These 
lead   into  a  triangular  court,   surrounded  with 
buildings  of  two  stories  high.     We  first  went 
over  the  rooms  of  those  awaiting  their  trial  for 
fraud,   stealing  unattended  with  violence,  and 
highway  robbery ;  next  those  of  the  male  debtors; 
then  the  apartments  for  juvenile  offenders  of  the 


i 


30  11E.SI1)KNCF.    IN    ST.   PETERSBURG. 

same  sex,  attaclied  to  wliicl.  is  a  scl.ool-room. 
where  they  are  daily  instructed  in  reading  and 
other  usetUl  learning,  according  to  their  several 
capacities.     All  the  rooms  open  out  ot  a  long 
corridor  or  passage,  at  the  entrance  ot  wlucli  is 
placed  a  sentinel  :    they  were  clean  and  wel 
warmed.     Of  the  i.receding  cases,  set'eral  7L-ere  oj 
Uma  standing,  and  xcere  then  undecided!    One 
untbrtimate  man  whom  I  saw,  had  l>een  vnpmoned 
for  lu-elve  years,  his  case  not  having  been  deter- 
'minedhythe  courts  appointed  for  such  purposes!!. 
We  now  proceeded  to  that  part  of  the  buddmg 
which  is  allotted  to  criminals  of  the  worst  descrip- 
tion.    At  the  entrance  of  the  corridor  with  which 
their  rooms  communicate,  three  soldiers  stood  with 
muskets  and  fixed  bayonets,  who,  upon  our  going 
into  each  chamber,  immediately  followed  us,  and 
placed  themselves  within  the  doorway,  in  order, 
no  doubt,  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  an  escape, 
as  well  as  for  our  protection. 

I  must  confess  this  scene  excited  in  my  breast 
feelings  of  no  ordinary  description,  and  I  shud- 
dered on  approaching  the  guilty  and  miserable 
wretches  we  had  come  to  see.  The  first  room 
contained  three  known  murderers ;  the  next,  some 
desperate  highway  robbers  (a  villainous  looking 
horde) ;  a  third,  common  thieves.  One  long  room 
that  was  now  unlocked  to  us  contamed  about 
fifty  tried  prisoners,  who  had  all  received  sen- 
tence of  banishment  to  the  mines  of  Siberia,  and 
were  only  waiting  for  a  proper  opportunity  to  be 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


31 


sent  there.     TJiey  are  conducted  tliither  on  foot, 
chained  together,  under  an  escort  of  Kozaks. 

Tlie  system  of  classifying  the  prisoners,  which 
has  been  so  much  attended  to  lately  in  many  of 
the  English  gaols,  and  wliich  has  produced  such 
beneficial  consequences,  has  recentlybeen  adopted 
in  the  Litofsky  prison,  as  far  as  the  present  incon- 
venient building  will  admit  of  it ;  but  it  is  by  no 
means  so  complete  as  to  satisfy  the  wishes  of  Mr. 
yenning.     However,  those  who  have  been  con- 
fined for  crimes  of  the  worst  description  are  now 
placed  together,  separate  from  the  prisoners  com- 
initted  for  less  heinous  ofl'ences  ;  and,  in  order  to 
prevent  disagreements  and  other  inconveniences 
which  might  arise  from  the  difference  of  religions 
and  customs,  &c.,  Jews  are  now  kept  distinct  from 
those  of  other  persuasions,  which  is  a  judicious 
and  humane  regulation.     A  large  ward  is  fitting 
up  as  an  infirmary  for  this  part  of  the  prison,  (no 
such  place  yet  existing !)  upon  which  my  opinion 
was  requested,  and  which  will  answer  very  well 
for  the  purpose  intended.     But  what  a  deficiency 
to  have  remained  until  now  (Dec.  1827) !     For- 
merly  the  sick  and  the  healthy,  the  young  and 
the  old,  those  hardened  in  crime,  and  those  who 
were  committed  for  the  most  triflingoflPences,  were 
huddled  indiscriminately  together ;  new  comers 
were  thrown  amongst  those  labouring  under  gaol- 
fever,  —  the  dreadful  consequences  of  which  can 
hardly  be  conceived,  and  certainly  cannot  be  ade- 
quately described.     Such  was  the  case  when  our 
immortal  Howard  went  over  this  very  prison,  and 


32 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


such  were  the  horrors  which  his  philanthropy 
endeavoured  to  mitigate. 

Leaving  this  part  of  the  prison,  we  proceeded 
to  the  female  wards.  Much  reformation  has  taken 
place  in   this  department:    formerly  the   most 
riotous  conduct  used  to  be  displayed  here  ;  but 
at  this  time  we  saw  about  forty  of  the  prisoners 
sitting  decently  and  quietly  round  a  large  table 
at  work,  exhibiting  a  scene  highly  creditable  to 
the  exertions  of  those  who  have  brought  about 
such  a  desirable  change.     On  both  the  male  and 
female  sides  of  the  prison,  strong  rooms  for  soli- 
tary confinement  have  been  fitted  up,  in  which 
the  refractory  of  both  sexes  are  placed  when  ne- 
cessary  :  these  have  been  found  to  produce  such 
a  beneficial  efliect  upon  the  minds  of  the  prison- 
ers  that  they  are  now  seldom  required.     T/ie 
unfortunate  persons  who  were  confined  for  po- 
litical offences  we  were  not   allowed  to  visit! 
From  hence,  we  were  conducted  to  the  work- 
rooms,    where  the  male  prisoners  are   now  re- 
gularly employed  at  such  trades  as  they  already 
understand,  or  are  instructed  in  others  by  proper 
superintendents.     There  are  thus  separate  rooms 
for  shoemakers,  tailors,  bookbinders,  carpenters, 
&c. :   rope  mats  are   also  manufactured  within 
the  walls.    Attached  to  the  prison  there  has  re- 
cently   been   established  a  magazine   or  shop, 
where  the  various  articles  made  by  the  prisoners 
are  deposited,  and  may  be  inspected  and  pur- 
chased by  the  public.   This  is,  at  present,  merely 
in  its  infancy,  but  will,  no  doubt,  be  an  useful 


RESIDENCE    IN   ST.  PETERSBURG. 


SS 


appendage  to  the  institution.  Observing  a  writing. 

desk  in  this  magazine,  made  of  nut  wood,  with 

plated  ornaments,  and  being  in  want  of  such  an 

article,  I  learned  that  it  had  been  manufactured 

in  the  prison,  as  a  Christmas  present  for  the 

eldest  son  of  the  reigning  Emperor,  the  Grand 

Duke  Alexander ;  but  the  ornaments  being  plated, 

as  before  observed,  it  was  afterwards  considered 

better  to  liave  them  made  of  brass^  as  more  dur- 

able ;  a  new  one  was  in  consequence  ordered, 

and  that  already  completed  directed  to  be  sold, 

of  which  I  became  the  purchaser,  at  the  price  of 

seventy-five  roubles. 

We  next  saw  the  chapel,  which  is  a  handsome 
and  appropriate  building :  it  contains,  besides  the 
usual  religious  ornaments  of  a  Russian  church, 
three  tiers  of  galleries  on  each  side  for  the  male 
prisoners,  the  females  being  placed  unseen  at  the 
end  opposite  to  the  entrance.  The  first,  or  ground 
floor  tier,    has  three  semicircular  windows,  or 
rather  apertures  in  it,  above  the  heads  of  the'cri- 
minals,  who  therefore  can  neither  see  nor  be  seen, 
although  they  can  hear  the  service ;  this  is  for 
murderers.     The  two  other  galleries  have  iron 
gratings  in  front,  so  that  those  contained  in  them 
are  not  altogether  precluded  from  seeing.     The 
debtors  are  placed  below,  in  the  centre.     The 
chapel,  I  should  say,   is  the  best  constructed 
part  of  the  whole  building,  being  conveniently 
arranged,  and  altogether  admirably  adapted  for 
the  purpose  to  which  it  is  destined. 

A  company  of  sixty  soldiers  is  always  quar- 


3^4. 


IlESmENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG, 


tered  in  the  building,  to  keep  the  prisoners  in 
awe,  and  to  prevent  escapes.     The  Emperor  and 
Empress,  as  well  as  the  whole  Imperial  family, 
we  were  informed,  send  large  sums  of  money  to 
the  prison,  to  be  employed  in  the  discharge  of 
those  debtors,  who,  upon  a  strict  investigation  of 
their  cases,  may  appear  worthy  of  receiving  such 
a  boon.     His  Majesty  visited  the  prison  in  pei^on 
last  summer ;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  in  time 
numerous  and  important  improvements  will  be 
adopted,  which  will  put  an  end  to  some  of  the 
many  evils  still  existing.     The  author  of  "  St 
Petersburg*,"  it  must  be  remembered,  did  not,  as 
he  himself  informs  his  readers,  visit  this  prison, 
and  therefore  could  not  be  personally  aware  of 
the  condition  in  which  it  was  during  his  short 
sojourn  in  Russia ;  but  the  facts  which  I  have 
just  brought  forward,  and  which,  it  must  be  kept 
in  mind,  refer  to  an  institution  in  the  Russian 
metropolis  itself,  and,  therefore,  under  the  very 
eye  of  the  Emperor,  are  proofs  that  the  glowing 
picture  of  the  excellence  with  which  justice  is 
administered  in  the  empire  at  large  cannot  be 
quite  so  correct  as  "  M.  le  Procureur"  would 
lead  the  above  named  author,    and  the  latter 
would  induce  his  readers,  to  imagine.     That  a 
man  should  have  been  imprisoned  for  a  series  of 
years  as  a  criminal,  and  that  his  case  should  be 
yet  undetermined  by  the  courts,  is  a  fact  at  which 
one   cannot  but  shudder,  and  must  argue  the 
existence  of  a  radical  defect  somewhere ;  nor 

♦  Vide  vol.  ii.  pp.  426--439. 


*^f: 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 

should  it  be  forgotten,  that  this  was  not  a  solitary 
instance,  there  being  "  several  of  long  standing" 
still  undetermined  in  the  same  prison.     Now,  if 
such  things  can  happen  in  the  metropolis,  it  may 
well  be  imagined  what  takes  place  in  the  interior 
of  the  country,   where  "  the   Emperor  is  far 
away*,"  and  where  there  is  little  chance  of  his 
ever  coming.     Indeed  that  there  are  at  present 
numerous  and  serious  evils  in  the  criminal  juris- 
prudence   of  the  country  was  freely  and  fully 
admitted,  although  it  was  added,  "  the  ardent  de- 
sire of  His  present  Imperial  Majesty  is  to  remove 
them  as  soon,  and  as  completely,  as  possible  j" 
but  the  Emperor  is  unfortimately,  in  this  instance, 
far  from  being  all-powerful,  and,  notwithstanding 
the  noble  intentions  which  he  is  represented  as 
entertaining,  will  find  himself  secretly  thwarted 
in  every  possible  manner,  by  all  whose  profits 
depend  upon  the  continuance  of  those  evils.    In 
his  panegyric  on   the  Emperor  Nicholas,   the 
Author  of  "  St  Petersburg"  says,  «  One  of  tlie 
additional  burdens  which  he  has  voluntarily  im- 
posed upon  himself,  is  that  of  looking  over  the 
reports  and  returns  of  everj/  arrest  mid  imprisoji- 
ment  that  takes  place  in  his  empire.''     I  do  not 
doubt  that  this  has  been  said  to  be  the  case,  but 
I  very  much  question  the  fact :  I  give  the  present 
emperor  credit  for  every  desire  to  purify  the 
administration  of  justice  in  Russia,  and  I  doubt 
not  that  he  has  made,  and  will  continue  to  make, 

*  "God  is  high,  and  the  Emperor  far  axnayr  ^  Russian 
proverb.  ^         ^  y 

D   ^ 


36 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


f 


improvements  in  it,  but  I  cannot  for  a  moment 
allow  it  to  be  a  pliysical  possibility  for  him  or  for 
any  man  to  look  over  "the  reports  of  every 
arrest'*  which  takes  place  within  the  immense 
territorv  now  called  Russia;  nor  do  I  believe 
that  he  knows  even  of  all  that  occur. 

THE  AUTHOR  OF    "  ST.  PETERSBURG  "    AND   THE 
OTHER    WRITERS    UPON    RUSSIA. 

"  Those  among  foreign  travellers*,"  says  the 
author  of  "  St.  Petersburg,"  "  who  visited  Russia 
with  the  rapidity  of  a  posting  telega,  and  have 
assumed  at  the  same  time  the  task  of  sitting  in 
judgment  over  the  people  they  had  just  leisure 
to  look  at ;  or  who,  having  conversed  through 
the  medium  of  an  interpreter,  or  in  a  foreign  Ian  - 
guage,  with  perhaps  a  dozen  Russians,  hesitate 
not  to  define  with  the  boldest  precision  the 
national  character,  the  virtues,  and  the  defects 
of  fifty  millions  of  inhabitants.  Such  travellers 
may  reconcile  to  themselves  a  practice  so  in- 
consistent with  notions  of  candour  ^mdi  veracity  ^-^ 
I  care  not  to  follow  their  example."  The  author 
of  <*  St.  Petersburg,"  if  I  mistake  not,  entered 
Russia  in  a  calash  with  four  horses,  and  left  it 
in  the  same  manner  ;  —  a  mode  of  conveyance, 
equalUng  in  swiftness  "  the  rapidity  of  a  posting 
telega,"  and  he  remained  in  St.  Petersburg  some- 
what less  than  seven  weeks.  As  he  did  not 
understand  one  word  of  Russ  upon  his  arrival 
in  that  capital,  I  presume  he  conversed  with 

♦  St.  Petersburg,  vol.  i.  p.  469. 


ir 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


37 


the  inhabitants  either  "  through  the  medium  of 
an  interpreter,  or  in  a  foreign  language;"  he 
was,  therefore,  so  far  as  I  can  see,  in  the  very 
same  condition  which  he  declares  must  render  a 
peison  incapable  of  giving  any  opinion  entitled 
to  credit  upon  the  Russian  people,  yet  he  pre- 
tends  to    "  sit   in  judgment"   upon  them,   by 
affirming    that  former   travellers   of  note   and 
character  have  misrepresented  facts ;  facts,  be  it 
remembered,  concerning  most  of  which  he  him- 
self could  have  had  noexperience,  —  "a practice" 
certainly  «  inconsistent  with  notions  of  candour 
or  veracity."     As  to  the  difficulty  of  deciding 
upon  the  virtues  and  vices  of  fifty  millions  ol' 
inhabitants,  that  is  not  by  any  means  so  Herculean 
a  labour  as  may  at  first  sight  appear,  but  can 
soon   be    effected,    and   with   considerable   ac- 
curacy.     We   have   only  to  consider   of  what 
parts  the  population  in  question  is  composed, 
and  then  to   ascertain   the   ruling  propensities 
of  these  parts  respectively,  and  we  shallform  a 
correct  idea   of  the   whole.     Although  Russia 
may  contain  «  fifty  millions  of  inhabitants,"  to 
use  the  words  of  our  author,  yet  its  population 
is  in  fact  composed  but  of  two*,  or  at  most 
three,  distinct  classes  of  society,  each  of  which 
is  little  more  than  nominally  subdivided. 

*  Since  the  above  was  written  I  have  turned  over  Bishop 
James's  «  Journal  of  a  Tour,"  &c.,  and  am  happy  to  add  his 
testimony  to  my  own  upon  this  point.  His  words  are  :  — 
«  Lookmg  to  society  in  Russia,  we  shall  find  that  there 
exists,  m  fact,  only  two  distinct  orders,  the  nobles  and  the 
slaves."  —  Vol.  i.  p.  415. 

D  3 


/ 


38 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


39 


If  we  adopt  the  former  arrangement,  then 
the  two  great  classes  will  be  found  to  consist  of 
"  the  upper "  and  "  the  lower,"  the  former 
composed  solely  of  the  nobility,  the  latter  of 
the  merchants,  bourgeois,  inferior  employes, 
ecclesiastics,  hawkers,  artificers,  soldiers,  sailors, 
and  peasants,  or  slaves ;  which,  according  to 
the  census  of  1818,  may  be  set  down  as  under:  — 


Upper  class 
Lower  class 


225,000 
-     42,636,000 

Total     -    42,861,000 


If  we  prefer  the  latter  classification,  and 
arrange  the  population  under  three  heads,  they 
will  stand  as  follows  :  — 

First  class  —  nobility  -  -        225,000 

Second  class  —  merchants,  bourgeois,  1    ^  gng  QryQ 

inferior  employes,  ecclesiastics        -J      ' 
Third  class  —  artificers,  hawkers,  &c.  1       ^^ 

soldiers  and  slaves  -  -  J      *       ' 


000 


Total     -    42,861,000 


Now,  a  traveller  may  obtain  a  very  good  idea 
of  the  lower  class  as  he  passes  along  the  road, 
and  from  the  conduct  which  he  meets  with  at  the 
post-houses,  &c. ;  and  he  will  find  some  exquisite 
specimens  of  varieties  among  the  second  at  the 
custom-houses  *,  and  other  public  establishments 

♦  I  had  not  been  at  Cronstadt  twenty-four  hours  before  I 
was  solicited  to  give  bribesy  in  order  to  get  my  luggage 
passed ;  and  my  non-compliance,  as  well  as  that  of  others, 
was,  no  doubt,  the  reason  why  we  were  detained  so  long, 
and  so  unjustifiably. 


1 


with  which  he  is  compelled  to  transact  business. 
Should  he  reside  for  a  few  months  in  any  of  the 
capital  towns,  he  will  have  the  opportunity  of  duly 

appreciating  another  variety  in  the  same  class, 

the  merchants,  &c. ;  and  if  he  possess  the  means 
of  being  introduced  into  the  first  society,  he  may, 
in  a  short  time,  form  a  correct  estimate  as  to  the 
character  of  the  nobility  also;  a  very  few  excepted, 
he  will  find  them  all  members  of  the  same  great 
family ;  possessing  the  same  features,  the  same 
virtues,  and  the  same  vices,  the  same  habits,  and 
the  same  ways  of  thinking  and  acting,  modified, 
however,  certainly,  in  some  degree,  by  the  various 
circumstances  in  which  each  individual  may  have 
been  placed,  but  never  losing  entirely  their  na- 
tional characteristics.     No  respectable  foreigner 
of  common  observation  can  reside  in  Russia  for 
a  period  of  twelve  montlis  without  acquiring  the 
ability  of  fairly  estimating  the  general  character 
of  the  Russians :  even  a  much  less  time  would 
be  sufficient,  in  my  opinion,  for  that  purpose ; 
and  therefore  I  cannot  allow  that  the  learned  and 
highly  respected  Cambridge  professor.  Dr.  Clarke, 
was  not  qualified  to  decide  upon  the  question ; 
nor  can  I  conceive  why  Dr.  Lyall,  who  resided 
several  years  in  the  country,  and  particularly  as 
he  did  not  converse  "  through  the  medium  of  an 
interpreter,  or  in  a  foreign  language,"  should  not 
be  considered  as  an  authority  on  this  subject. 
But  these  are  not  the  only  writers  who  have  ex- 
pressed  their  opinions  freely  upon  Russia ;  there 
are  many  other  names  of  high  respectability  and 

D  4 


40 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


great  moral  weight,  among  whom  it  will  be  suf- 
ficient to  mention  the  late  Bishop  James  and  the 
present  Dr.  Macmichael. 


I 


MASQUERADE    AT    COURT. 

January  13th,  1828.  — On  the  first  clay  of  the 
year,  according  to  the  old  style,  which  the  Rus- 
sians, to  their  disgrace  be  it  spoken,  alone  con- 
tinue to  employ,  the   "  masquerade  at  court" 
takes  place  in  the  winter  palace.     It  is  called  a 
"  masquerade,"  but  improperly,   since  no  one 
is  permitted  to  appear  there  in  a  mask.     The 
palace  is  open,  on  this  occasion,  not  only  to  the 
court  and  to  respectable  inhabitants  of  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, but  even  the  lowest  peasants  have  the 
means  of  obtaining  tickets  as   readily  as   any 
other  persons.    During  the  evening  the  women, 
from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  rank,  wear  the 
ancient  Russian  costume,  which  is  exceedingly 
handsome.     Having  repeatedly  heard  this  mas- 
querade described  in  glowing  colours,  I  deter- 
mined to  be  preservt ;  and  as  a  preliminary  step, 
procured  the  dress  required  to  be  worn  by  gentle- 
men on  the  occasion,  which  consists  of  a  black  silk 
mantle,  generally  faced  either  with  pink  or  blue, 
and  a  tippet  of  black  striped  silk.     These  may  be 
hired  at  several  shops  in  the  city,  —  for  the  use  of 
which  during  the  evening  ten  roubles  are  paid. 
Some  idea  may  be  formed  as  to  the  size  of  the 
apartments  at  the  winter  palace,  from  the  fact 
that  for  the  present  masquerade  27,000  tickets 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


41 


\t 


had  been  distributed  among  the  nobility  and 
mobilil^  ;  which  two  classes,  as  far  as  my  know- 
ledge extends,  no  where  else  so  entirely  com- 
prehend  the  population  of  a   country,  are  no 
where  so   generally  and   strictly  distinguished 
from  each  other,  or  so  completely  mixed  as  on 
the  evening  of  New-year's  Day  in  St.  Petersburg  • 
thus  addmg  another  to  the  long  list  of  incon- 
sistencies remarkable  in  the  character  and  con 
duct  of  the  Russians.    At  half  past  eight,  having 
robed  ourselves,    two   Russian  gentlemen  and 
myself  took  a  couple  of  sledges  and  proceeded 
to  the  palace.    Here  we  found,  as  we  had  anti- 
cipated, an  immense  concourse  of  people  of  all 
ranks  and   descriptions   indiscriminately  filling 
the  saloons.     Among  the  apartments  open  this 
evening  to  the  public  were  the  saloon  of  St 
George,  that  where  the  Emperor  receives  the 
foreign  ambassadors,  the  white  saloon,  the  gal 
lery  of  generals,  &c.     The  whole  was  exceed 
mgly  grand,  and,  I  believe,  unequalled  in  any 
other  country ;  but  it  was  not  the  splendour  of 
tlie  scene  that  I  beheld,  (for  the  palaces  of  our 
own  sovereign  are,  interiorly,  far  more  gorgeously 
decorated  than  any  in  Russia,)  but  the  immense 
scale  upon  which  every  thing  was,  the  vastness 
ot  the  saloons,  the  countless  multitudes,  and  the 
variety  of  the  costumes,  that  produced  such  an 
impression  on  my  mind.    Having  with  consider- 
able  difficulty  reached  the  gallery  of  generals, 
we  perceived  the  Emperor  and  court  pass  across 
it,  but  were  unable  from  the  pressure  of  the 


1 


42 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG, 


\\\ 


I 


surrounding  crowd  to  get  sufficiently  near  to 
distinguish  more  than  their  heads  ;  however,  we 
moved  forward  in  the  direction  which  they  had 
taken,  and  on  our  arrival  in  the  saloon  of  St 
George  we  again  saw  the  Emperor  on  liis  return, 
leading  the  Empress,  and  followed  by  the  whole 
court  present,  two  and  two.     I  this  time  was 
enabled  to  get  so  near  as  to  have  a  perfect  view 
of  his  Imperial  Majesty.     He  was  dressed  in  the 
court  uniform  of  the  chevalier  guard,  the  coat 
of  which  is  red :  he  is  a  fine  stern  looking  young 
man,  and  appeared  in  excellent  health  and  spirits. 
The'  Emperor  and  the  Imperial  family,  attended 
by  a  considerable  number  of  the  court,  parade 
through  the  whole  suite  of  apartments  several 
times°during  the  evening,  in  the  manner  just 
described,  and  thus  almost  every  person  present 
has  an  opportunity  of  seeing  them.     The  Em- 
peror  afterwards   walked  through   the   rooms, 
leading  the  Empress-mother  by  the  hand,  and 
foUowed  as  before  by  the  court.     As  we  had 
hitherto  been  unable,   from    the    surrounding 
pressure,  to  inspect  all  the  rooms,  we  now,  as 
soon  as  their  Majesties  and  the  attendant  nobility 
had  passed  us,  joined  in  the  procession,  and  thus 
had  the  pleasure  of  viewing  the  whole  suite  of 
apartments  with  the  least  possible  inconvenience. 
Military  bands  were  placed  in  three  of  the 
saloons,  and  performed  martial  airs  during  the 
whole  of  the  evening ;  and  refreshments  were  to 
be  had  in  some  of  the  rooms,  which  were  eagerly 
sought  after  by  the  lower  orders.    For  the  court. 


\% 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETEHSBURG. 


43 


a  magnificent  supper  was  prepared,  in  an  apart- 
ment not  open   to   the  public.     I  was  much 
pleased  witli  the  dresses  of  the  women,  which, 
as  before  observed,  are  always  upon  these  occa- 
sions in  the  ancient  Russian  costume.     It  varies 
in  certain  particulars,  according  to  the  different 
governments ;  but  the  head-dress  generally  con- 
sists of  a  kind  of  tiara,  covered  with  crimson  or 
blue  velvet,  worked  elegantly  in  various  patterns 
with  gold  or  silver  thread,  and  ornamented  with 
spangles  or  pearl  beads ;  while  the  gowns  have 
broad  gold  or  silver  lace  down  the  front  and 
round  the  arm-holes,  and  encircling  the  waist 
they  wear  an   embroidered  girdle,    the  whole 
presenting  a  splendid  appearance.     The  hair  is 
plaited  into  a  long  tail  hanging  down  the  back, 
and  to  this  is  appended,  at  its  termination,  L 
large  bow  of  some  gaudily  coloured  riband. 
The  heat  within  the  palace  was  extreme,  and 
the  cold  without  twenty  degrees  below  zero ;  in 
consequence  of  which   a  curious  phenomenon 
was  produced  upon  several   of  the  windows 
being  opened  to  admit  air,  namely,  the  appear- 
ance of  smoke  pouring  into  the  rooms.     The 
atmosphere  within   being    much    loaded  with 
moisture  from  the  assembled  multitudes,  upon 
the  cold  air  entering  this  moisture  was  imme- 
diately condensed  and  rendered  visible,  occa- 
sioning the  appearance  before  aUuded  to.   About 
ten  o'clock  my  friends  and  I  lefl  the  palace 
and  returned  to  the  house  of  Count  Vorontzof. 


44 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


i! 


SOME  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  CEREMONY  ATTENDANT 
UPON  THE  BLESSING  THE  WATERS  OF  THE  NEVA. 

Jan.  18th,  1828. — The  ceremony  of  blessing 
tlie  waters  of  the  Neva  takes  place  annually  on 
the  Gth  of  January  (old  style),  and  by  all  true 
Russians  is  looked  upon  with  veneration.  The 
present  Emperor  is  represented  as  deeply  attached 
to  the  principles  of  the  Greek  church,  the  esta- 
blished religion  of  Russia;  but  what  appears 
somewhat  singular  in  a  despotic  government  is, 
that  all  religions  are  tolerated,  and  funds  are  often 
supplied  to  build  churches  for  modes  of  worship 
differing  from  the  Greek  religion  as  freely  as  for 
those  of  the  latter  faith.  This  is  a  part  of  Rus- 
sian policy,  and  does  not  arise  from  any  liberality 
with  respect  to  religious  opinions,  but  rather 
from  an  indifference  to  them,  and  from  the 
desire  of  sacrificing  every  thing  to  temporal  ad- 
vantage. •     Having  heard  that  the  benediction 

*  Lest  1  should  be  supposed  to  make  an  assertion  here 
not  warranted  by  facts,  let  me  remind  the  reader,  that  as 
Russia  has  so  large  a  number  of  foreigners  in  her  service 
filling  the  highest  and  most  important  offices  in  the  state, 
if  all  were  subjected  to  conformity  with  the  established 
religion,  a  great  proportion  of  these  would  throw  up  their 
appointments,  as  few  among  them,  whether  German,  Eng- 
lish, or  French,  would  be  found  disposed  to  submit  to  the 
idolatry  of  the  Greek  religion. 

List  of  a  few  offices  held  by  foreigners  while  I  was  in 
Russia:  —  Chief  of  the  Etat  Major,  General  Diebitch 
(a  German) ;  Admiral  of  the  Black  Sea,  Admiral  Greig  (a 
British  subject);  President  of  the  Medico-Chirurgical  Aca- 
demy, and  Director  General  of  the  Medical  Department  of 


5 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


45 


was  to  take  place  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon, 
I  took  care  to  be  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
winter  palace  a  few  minutes  previously.     As, 
however,  it  did  not  seem  likely,  from  the  state  in 
which  I  found  things  upon  my  arrival,  that  the 
ceremony  would  commence  lor  some  time  longer 
I  amused  myself  by  noticing  the  preparations 
which  had  been  made  for  its  celebration.   On  the 
edge  of  the  Neva,  midway  between  the  admiralty 
and  the  winter  palace,  was  erected  a  wooden 
temple  of  about  thirty  feet  in  height  (reckoning 
from  the  frozen  surface  of  the  river),  and  about 
half  that  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  "  Quai 
de  la  Cour,"  its  width  in  proportion.     It  had 
seven  arched  windows,  and  a  doorway  of  similar 
form,  opening  on  to  the  quay,  with  a  domed  top 
of  green  latticed  work.    The  sides  of  the  temple 
were  pamted  white,  except  in  those  parts  orna- 
mented with  gilding  and  other  decorations.   Four 
pictures  of  scriptural  subjects,  in  frames,  were 
placed,  at  equal  distances,  around  the  top,  cor- 
responding  to  the  four  cardinal  points :  one  being 
a  representation  of  baptism,  and  another  of  Jonah 
and  the  whale ;  the  remaining  two  I  was  unable 

ChietT/'/'^f""''^^"'  <"  Scotchman);  Physician  in 
Chief  of  the  Navy,  Dr.  Leighton  (an  Enghshman) ;   the 

SrelTwV'  ""P^""'  ^-"f-tory  of  Alexandrofsky 
General  W.lson  (an  Englishman) ;  the  most  celebrated 
pamter  ever  resident  in  Russia,  and  latterly  Painter  to  the 
iTrV^'-  ""r  <^"  ^"^"^'""-)  ■'  the  Di-tor  of    he 

frSr'T  ""^P""^  "  ''•  ^"^'^•'-g'  "^^  Venning 
(an  Enghshman) :_  these  names  are  sufficient,  but  it  would 
be  easy  to  extend  the  list  to  a  very  great  lengUi. 


^1 


4G 


RESIDENCE  IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


to  see,  their  situation  being  towards  the  river. 
From  the  centre  of  the  roof,   internally,  was 
suspended   a   silver  dove,    siu-mounted   with   a 
gilded  radiance.     Steps  led   up  to  the  temple 
from  the  quay ;  these  were  covered  on  either  side 
with  scarlet  cloth,  and  in  the  middle  with  car- 
pet.    There  were,  as  yet,  merely  a  few  persons 
collected  immediately  about  the  temple,  which 
the  workmen  appeared  only  then  to  be  complet- 
ing.   Some  carriages  of  the  nobility  and  military 
officers  were  driving  up  to  the  palace ;  but  it  was 
evident,  from  the  general  want  of  bustle,  that  the 
ceremony  would  not  take  place  for  a  considerable 
time.   In  order  to  keep  myself  warm  (the  temper- 
ature being  eight  degrees  below  zero)  I  walked 
up  and  down  at  the  end  of  the  admiralty,  not 
knowing  precisely  from  what  point  the  procession 
was  to  set  out ;  but  observing  that  several  ladies 
had  posted  themselves  near  a  particular  door  of 
the  palace  opposite  to  the  fortress,  and  believing 
that  they  had  good  reason  for  so  doing,  I  thought 
it  would  be  prudent  to  depend  upon  their  superior 
judgment,  and  follow  their  example.    I  acted 
accordingly,  and  subsequently  had  no  reason  to 
regret  my  change  of  position.    Near  this  spot  I 
sauntered  about,  the  people  gradually  increasing 
in  number,  until  at  last  the  surrounding  multi- 
tudes necessarily  rendered  me  stationary,  there 
being  assembled,  I  should  suppose,  considerably 
above  10,000  persons  by  a  few  minutes   after 
twelve  o'clock,  at  which  time  the  sound  of  vocal 
and  instrumental  music,  proceeding  from  the  in- 


It 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


47 


terior  of  the  palace,  led  me  to  conclude  that  the 
ceremonial  had  commenced,  which  was  soon  evi- 
dent by  the  palace  doors,  opposite  to  where  1 
stood,  being  thrown  open,  and  then  I  could  per- 
ceive  the  procession  approaching  from  the  inte- 
rior,  and  shortly  after  it  reached  the  street.   First 
came  an  officer  of  rank,  then  two  priests,  bearing 
each  a  standard  or  banner;   after  these  more 
priests,  without  standards ;  next  came  one  carry- 
ing  at  the  top  of  a  pole  a  lantern  ;  then  followed, 
two  and  two,  several  of  the  superior  clergy,  in' 
eluding  bishops  and  archbishops,  some  of  them 
bearing  lighted  wax  candles.     Next  a  priest, 
holding  an  ornamented  golden  cross,  who  was 
succeeded  by  other  priests,  several  having  wax 
tapers  as  before,  and  the  two  last  standards.    The 
priests  were  clothed  in  long  robes  richly  embroi- 
dered  with  gold  and  silver  wire,  very  much  re- 
sembling the  costume  of  the  ancient  monks  in 
England.     They  wear  long  beards,  mustachios, 
and  fur  caps,  and  carry  a  gold-headed  cane. 

After  the  last  standards  singing  boys  dressed 
in  red,  perhaps  forty  in  number,  followed,  and 
then  an  equal  number  of  adult  choristers  similarly 
clothed,  the  whole  chanting  some  sacred  melody, 
which  the  military  bands  within  the  palace  ac- 
companied. These  ministers  and  servants  of  the 
church  having  passed,  the  Emperor  next  appeared 
with  his  hat  off,  accompanied  by  the  Grand  Duke 
Michel ;  several  mUitary  officers  of  the  highest 
rank  followed,  succeeded  by  those  of  lower  de- 
gree,  and  a  host  of  subalterns  closed  the  proces- 


. 


I. 


48 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBUaC, 


I' 


sion,  several  banners  being  also  carried  among 
them.    In  this  way,  the  chanting  continuing,  the 
procession  moved  on  to  the  temple,  upon  reaching 
which  the  water  of  the  Neva  received  the  bene- 
diction so  anxiously  expected  by  the  surrounding 
multitude,  the  minutiae  attendant  upon  which, 
however,  I  cannot  describe,  having  been  unable 
to   approach  sufficiently  near   to   the  building, 
owing  to  the  dense  crowd ;  nor  have  I  attempted 
to  supply  the  deficiency  from  the  pages  of  other 
authors,  having  no  wish  to  repeat  particular  de- 
tails of  the  frivolous  and  superstitious  formalities 
which  the   professional  votaries  of  the  Greek 
church  are  so  fond  of  displaying  to  their  ignorant 
and  slavish  disciples.     Singers,  young  and  old, 
officers  and  priests  of  every  denomination,  up  to 
the  Emperor  and  the  Patriarch,  with  lanterns, 
candles,  banners,  and  crosses,— these,  as  we  have 
already  seen,  formed  the  actors  upon  the  occasion, 
the  less  privileged  classes  filling  up  the  remaining 
room  as  spectators ;  while  processions  to  and  from 
the  palace,  and  finally  the  benediction,  composed 
the  entertainment,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  no 
doubt  all  present  were,  or  affected  to  be,  firmly 
persuaded  that  thus  for  another  year  had  been 
secured  to  the  water  of  the  Neva  properties 
even  more  valuable  and  extraordinary  than  those 
which  acquired  for  it  the  distinguished  praise  of 
the  author  of  "  St  Petersburg."  *    About  a  quar- 

•  "  After  all,  the  best,  the  purest,  the  most  grateful,  the 
most  healthy,  the  most  delightful,  and  really  national  be- 
verage  of  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Petersburg  is  the  water  of 


V 


HESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


49 


ter  of  an  hour  having  been  so  employed  several 
rockets  were  discharged,  and  shortly  afterwards 
the  Emperor  returned  almost  alone  to  the  palace, 
and  appeared  again  at  its  entrance.     Soon  afler* 
wards,  also,  the  priestly  procession  returned,  in 
the  same  manner  in  which  it  had  set  out,  to  the  pa- 
lace, the  Emperor  with  his  drawn  sword  meeting 
It  at  the  door  and  going  in  and  returning  several 
tmies ;  so  that  it  appeared  as  if  he  were  receivin<r 
eacli  class  of  the  priests  separately.     At  lasj 
when  the  singing  boys  and  choristers  had  passed 
hun,  the  « Autocrat  of  all  the  Russias  "  also 
entered  the  palace,  followed  by  his  officers,  and 
this   concluded  the   ceremony  on  the  outside. 
Almost  immediately  aflerwards  I  heard  the  mili- 
tary  bands  within  playing  our  well-known  and 
heart-enhvening  air,    "God   save  the   King;" 
which  was  adopted  as  a  national  Russian  anthem 
upon  the  return  of  the  Emperor  Alexander  to 
St.  Petersburg  in  1814,  under  the  title  of  "God 
save  the  Emperor." 


the  Neva.     O  commend  me  to  the  water  of  that  river  for 
quenching  thirst,  pleasing  the  palate,  and  assisting  diges- 
tion !  Malvern  water  must  yield  the  palm  to  it,  and  so,  I 
take  It,  must  every  other  water  in  the  world.     O  felices 
mmium  those  who  can  enjoy  such  a  luxury  con  amove,  and 
are  two  thousand  miles  from  the  Dolphin  and  the  Chelsea 
Hospital  water-courses  .-  In  the  course  of  this  eulogy,  how- 
ever, upon  the  above  mentioned  nectar,  the  Doctor  pays 
rather  a  doubtful  compliment  to  the  Russians  in  the  northern 
capital ;  for  he  candidly  observes,  the  water  of  the  Neva  "i, 
tue  \hm^  I  regret  most  at  St.  Petersburg ! "  —  Vide  «  St  Pe 
tersburg,"  vol.  ii.  p.4ls. 


50 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


h 


,    ! 


n 


THE  BATTLE  OF  NAVARINO  AND  THE  RUSSIANS. 

It  is  sometimes  curious  to  notice  how  differ- 
ently  persons  view  the  same  circumstance,  and 
what  dissimilar  conclusions  they  come  to  in  con- 
sequence.     This  observation  was  suggested  to 
me  upon  reading  in  «'  St.  Petersburg"  the  ac 
count  of  the  effect   produced  in  the  Russian 
capital,  by  the  battle  of  Navarino,  the  news  ot 
which  reached  that  place  during  the  time  Dr. 
Granville  and  I  were  there.     "  1  well  recollect," 
as  the  former   observes,    "  the   unfeigned  joy 
which  was  manifested  by  the  superior  classes  of 
society,  and  military  officers  of  the  highest  rank 
on  that  event ;"  but  I  do  not  feel  inclined  to 
give  the  Russians  any  credit  for  it,  or  to  believe 
that  they  "  felt  like   Englishmen  on  that  oc- 
casion."     Tiie  battle  of  Navarino  was  indeed  a 
glorious  event  for  the  Russians ;  to  that  "  un- 
toward circumstance"  must  be  attributed  at  any 
rate  the  rajjidity  of  their  subsequent  advances ; 
and  many   perhaps  are   of  opinion   that  their 
successes  solely  originated  in  the  Turkish  fleet 
having  been  completely  annihilated  at  one  blow. 
The  army  was  victualled  entirely  from  Odessa  ; 
100  ships  sailed  regularly  every  month  from  that 
port  with  provisions  and  other  necessaries,  and 
uniformly  arrived  at  their  destination,  because 
the  Turks  had  no  fleet  to  intercept  them ;  never- 
theless, so  much  were  the  troops  at  one  time  in 
want  of  provisions,  which  it  would  have  been 
impossible,  for  various  reasons,  to  have  conveyed 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


51 


by  land,  that  I  verily  believe,  if  the  Turks  could 
liave   taken  the  Russian  transports,  the   army 
before  Varna  must  have  been  starved.     It  is  no 
wonder,  therefore,  that  the  Emperor,  who  must  at 
once  have  seen  the  immense  advantage  which 
the  destruction  of  the  Turkish  fleet  would  give 
to  Russia  in  the  prosecution  of  the  war,  should 
have  "partaken"   of  the  general  satisfaction; 
and  have  evinced  his  admiration  of  the  English 
admiral's  conduct,  by  conferring  the  order  o1"  St. 
George  of  the  second  class  upon  him  (the  most 
distinguished  order  in  Russia).     Tlie  insignia  of 
the  order  of  St.  George  are,  with  some  very  few 
exceptions  in  its  lower  classes,  given  solely  on 
account  of  merit ;  but  as  to  the  others,  the  St 
Anne's,  the  St  Vladimer's,  &c.  nine  tenths  of 
the  clerks  in  the  public  offices  have  either  one 
or  the  other  suspended  from  their  button-holes ; 
and  I  should  imagine  that  an  EnglisJi  officer! 
who  has  had  one  of  these  orders  presented  to 
liim,  would  not  feel  much  honoured  by  the  gift 
when  he  is  informed  that  the  Emperor's  coachl 
man,  a  bearded  Muskovite,  has  the  same  dis- 
tinction. • 

RUSSIAN   MOUNTAINS. 

February  3d.  1828.  -  As  I  was  returning  this 
morning  from  paying  a  visit  to  Mr.  Dawe  the 

tn  '  u  n  "'*''  '!^'=°'"""'°n«  ai-e  granted  with  such  profusion  as 
to  challenge  but  little  distinction  for  the  wearer  ;  one.  in- 
deed, of  the  Emperor's  valets  is  adorned  with  the  fourth 
Class  of  a  most  respectable  order."  -James's  "Journal 
*c.    vol.  u.  p.  1 10. 

E  2 


J 


59 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETEKSliUIlG, 


'1 


painter,  I  observed  in  the  distance  opposite  to 
the  Admiralty  some  wooden  buildings  upon  which 
workmen  were  then  employed ;  and  upon  walking 
that  way  to  ascertain  their  nature,  I  found  them 
to  be  the  Russian  Mountains  I  had  heard  so 
much  of  in  England,  and  which  were  in  prepar- 
ation  for  the  approaching  carnival,  accordmg  to 
annual  custom.     Their  mode  of  construction  is 
as  follows  :  —  A  wooden  framework  is  first  of  all 
prepared,  upon  which  in  certain  parts  ice  is  laid. 
The  mountains  consist  of  a  tower  or  platform  of 
about  twenty  foet  high,  approached  by  a  flight 
of  steps  ;  from  this  there  is  a  curved  descent  to 
a  long,  narrow,  horizontal  plane  or  path  of  ice. 
The  length  of  the  whole,  according  to  my  ad- 
measurement  by  pacing,  appeared  to  be  about 
350  yards ;  one  third  perhaps  of  which  is  formed 
of  rectangular  blocks  of  ice,  about  two  feet  in 
thickness,  three  in  breadth,  and  four  in  length, 
regularly  laid  upon  the  descending  part  of  the 
platform,  in  two  rows,  similar  to  masonry.     The 
interstices  between  the  blocks  of  ice  are  in  the 
next  place  very  neatly  filled  with  snow,  and  the 
whole  rendered  compact  by  pouring  water  over 
the  surface.     The  ice  that  I  saw  here  had  a  beau- 
tiful colour,  exactly  resembling  that  produced  by 
an  aqueous  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper.     The 
remaining  two  thirds  of  the  slippery  path  is  formed 
of  snow  spread  evenly  and  beaten  hard,  and  upon 
this  water   is  afterwards  poured,  which,  when 
frozen,  produces  a  level,  smooth  surface.     Its 
limits  on  either  side  are  accurately  defined  by  a 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


53 


55eries  of  planks  about  one  foot  in  height,  fastened 
by  wooden  pegs  driven  into  the  ground.     The 
foregoing  is  a  description  of  one  of  these  machines 
or  "mountains;"  but  there  are  two  placed  pa- 
rallel  to  each  other,  ten  or  twelve  feet  apart,  the 
towers  or  starting-places  being  at  opposite  ends ; 
so   that  those   who   enjoy  the  diversion  fly  in 
opposite  directions.     Upon  these  icy  rail-roads 
sledges  of  corresponding  size  are  placed  ;  and 
the  amusement  consists  in  walking  up  the  stairs 
to  the  top  of  the  tower  and  here  getting  into  the 
sledge,  wliicli,   descending  by  its  own  gravity, 
acquires  such  velocity  as  to  carry  its  inmates  to 
the  further  end  of  the  course.     The  macliines 
just  described  were  for  the  use  of  the  mougics  or 
peasants  during  the  carnival,  who  pay  a  small 
sum  each  for  descending  from  them.     A  young 
English  friend  oflTered  to  i)rocure  me  a  ticket  fo^ 
some  private  "  Russian  Mountains;"  but  as  I  had 
not  the  opportunity  of  becoming  practically  ac- 
quainted with  the  sensation  which  a  descent  from 
them  produces,  in  consequence  of  my  being  on 
the  eve  of  departure  for  the  south,  I  requested 
him  to  endeavour  to  describe  it  to  me.      He 
hesitated  for  a  few  moments,  and  then  said,  **  If 
you  can  form  any  idea  of  what  the  sensation 
must  be,  while  descending  to  the  street,  upon 
being  suddenly  flung  out  of  a  two-pair-oflstairs 
window,  you  will  know  how  one  feels  in  de- 
scending  the  *  Russian  mountains.'  "     I  confess, 
after  this  reply  I  felt  no  desire  to  ascertain,  by 

E  3 


'H 


fl 


54 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


55 


IH^t" 


11 


H 


personal  experience,  the  correctness  of  his  de- 
scriptvQn. 

ABDICATION    OF    THE    GRAND  DUKE  CONSTANTINE. 

An  elder  brother  resigning  a  throne  to  which 
he  liad  a  natural  right,  and  apparently  also  with 
the  power  of  ascending  it,  in  favour  of  a  younger 
brother,  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  singular 
events  which  has  ever  taken  place  ;  indeed  it 
was  considered  so  extraordinary  at  the  time  that 
many  persons  in  this  country  were  unable  to 
believe  such  abdication  could  have  been  volun- 
tary  on  the  part  of  the  person  excluded  by  it ; 
imagining,   on  tlie  contrary,   that  it  had   been 
brought  about  by  unfair  means,  an  impression 
which  has  not,  even  yet,  entirely  subsided.  Dur- 
inn-  my  late  residence  in  Russia,  I  endeavoured,^ 
as'far  as  possible,  to  ascertain  the  real  state  of 
the  case ;  but  the  difficulty  of  placing  any  re- 
liance upon  what  is  said  in  that  country  ♦,  except- 
incr  where  we  have   the   opportunity  of  com- 
parincr  the  statements  of  others  with  our  own 
observations,  is  so  great,  from  the  caution  with 
which  individuals  express  their  sentiments,  for 
fear  of  compromising  themselves,  that  I  must  con- 

*  I  have  been  assured  by  emploi/h  in  Russia,  that  the 
Grand  Duke  Constantine  is  a  most  excellent  person,  and 
the  pattern  of  every  virtue.  But  a  gentleman,  who  a  few 
years  ago  was  attached  to  the  Russian  embassy  m  London, 
has  in  my  own  house,  repeatedly  declared  him  to  be  a 
monster,  and  capable  of  every  species  of  iniquity  ! 


fess  I  have  been  unable  to  make  up  my  mind  on 
the  subject,  but  am  inclined  to  believe  the  Grand 
Duke   did   really  resign  the   succession  volun- 
tarily.    It  is  well  known  that  the  late  Emperor 
Alexander  intended  that  Constantine  should  not 
ascend  the  throne  ;  but  it  does  not  seem  clear 
that  he  had  the  power  of  preventing  him  from 
so   doing   legally,  without   the  consent   of  the 
latter.    This  consent  had  been  given  for  the  pur- 
pose of  attaining  a  particular  object,  namely,  a 
second  marriage,  and  the  reigning  Emperor  as- 
sented  to  it ;  but  as  the  act  had  never  been  pub- 
lished and  formally  converted  into  a  law,  it  is 
questionable  whether  Nicholas  could  have  taken 
possession  of  the  throne,  except  by  violence,  if 
Constantine  had  been  opposed  to  it :  and  it  is 
evident,  from  what  happened,  that  the  present 
autocrat  did  not  consider  himself  to  be  such, 
except  by  the  voluntary  resignation  of  his  elder 
brother.     It  will,  therefore,  be  naturally  asked, 
why  did  the  latter  resign  his  pretensions  to  the 
throne  of  Russia  ?     The  most  probable  conclu- 
sion seems  to  be,  that  Constantine,  who  must 
Iiave  well  remembered  all  the  dreadful  particu- 
lars attendant  upon  the  murder  of  his  father,  the 
unfortunate  Paul,  feared  to  assume  the  imperial 
dignity,  under  the  impression  that  he  should  ex- 
perience  a  similar  fate  :  for  I  am  sure  the  Russian 
nobles,  whatever  their  opinions  may  be  with  re- 
spect to  Nicholas,  do  not  wish  Constantine  to  be 


their  sovereign. 


E  4 


56 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


'  MRS.  COCHRANE. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


57 


Jan.  I6th,  1828.— Among  the  guests  who  dined 
to   day  at  Count  VorontzoPs  was  Mrs.  Coch- 
rane,  the  widow  of  the  late  Captain  Cochrane  of 
the  Royal  Navy,  who  wrote  "  A  Narrative  of  a 
Pedestrian  Journey  through  Russia  and  Siberian 
Tartary."     She  is  a  native  of  Kamtchatka,  and 
was  married  to  the  Captain  while  he  remained  in 
tliat  peninsula  during  the  course  of  his  journey. 
He  thus  relates  the  occurrence  in  his  book  :  *<  I 
may  well  feel  a  strong  interest  concerning  a  place 
in  which  I  resided  for  more  than  a  year,  and 
where  I  married.     The  ceremony  was  attended 
with  much  more  pomp  and  parade  than  if  it  had 
been  celebrated  in  England.     It  took  place  on 
the  8th  of  January  ;  and  I  certainly  am  the  first 
Englishman  that  ever  married  a  Kamtchatdale ; 
ancf  my  wife  is  undoubtedly  the  first  native  of 
that  peninsula  that  ever  visited  happy  Britain." 
She  is  of  short  stature,  but  is  extremely  pretty, 
and  has  a  very  juvenile  appearance.     She  has  an 
intelligent  and  modest  demeanour,  and  is  alto- 
gether exceedingly  prepossessing.     At  the  time 
Captain  Cochrane  married  her  she  was  but  four- 
teen  years  of  age.    Upon  his  return  to  England 
he  placed  her  at  a  school  to  be  educated,  and  she 
speaks  the  English  language  fluently.    Latterly, 
she  accompanied  her  husband  to  South  America, 
where  he  died  of  the  fever   prevalent   in  that 
country ;  after  which  she  contrived  to  make  her 
way  back  to  England  alone.    At  the  time  I  was 


at  St.  Petersburg,  it  was  understood  that  she 
was  again  on  the  eve  of  marriage  to  another 
Englishman,  the  son  of  a  merchant  at  Cronstadt. 

BEAUTY  OF  THE  RUSSIAN  LADIES  :    THEIR 
EDUCATION,  ETC. 

The  author  of"  St.  Petersburg"  avoids  enter- 
ing  upon  the  question   "whether  the  Russian 
women  are,  in  general,   handsome,   or   the   re- 
verse.'*    "  In  general,"  he  says,  "  the  ladies  are 
not    so  strildnghj  handsome  as   in   England!" 
Query  :  —Are  they  generally  handsome  at  all  ? 
Most  certainly  not ;  and  every  person  qualified 
to  give  an  opinion  on  the  subject,  who  speaks  his 
mind  honestly,  must,  I  am  sure,  say  the  same.  * 
Calling  to  memory  all  the  ladies  of  rank  I  have 
seen  in  the  country  (and  my  opportunities  have 
been  ample  for  observing  them),  I  must  say  that 
I  have    only  met  with   one   handsome  woman 
among  them  who  was  really  Russian ;  — I  allude 
to  the  Princess  Ouroosof,  who  is  a  most  beautiful, 
accomplished,  and  amiable  young  lady.     I  had 

*  "  The  women  of  all  ranks  in  this  country,  though  very 
sprightly  and  very  gay;  for  ever  dancing,  and  singing, 
and  laughing,  and  talking,  have  not  the  same  preten- 
sions that  the  men  have  to  good  looks,  and  the  graces  of 
external  appearance.    They  have  no  delicacy  of  shape,  and 

their  complexions  are what  they  please;  for  those 

even  in  the  lowest  condition,  if  they  are  able  to  afford  it, 
bedaub  their  faces  with  red.  Red  is  the  favourite  colour 
here,  insomuch  that  the  word  denoting  it  in  the  Russian 
language,  is  synonimous  with  beautiful."  —  Anecdotes  of 
the  Russian  Empire. 


,..:. 


58  RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 

many  opportunities  of  meeting  and  conversing 
with  her  in  company  during  the  imperial  visit  to 
Odessa,  as  she  was  one  of  the  demoiselles  d  hon- 
neur  to  the  Empress,  and  was  a  frequent  visiter  at 
the  Governor-general's.    She  speaks  the  English 
language  correctly  and  fluently,  and  is  a  deserved 
favourite  with  her  imperial  mistress.     But  let  it 
not  be  supposed  that  I  assert  there  are  no  beau- 
tiful  women  in  St.  Petersburg  or  m  Russia:  — 
there  are  some,  certainly,  but  they  are  not  Kus- 
sians ;  they  are  "  Polish,  Livonian,  Esthonian, 
or  German,^'  the  former  of  whom  travellers  re- 
port  are  often  more  to  be  prized  for  their  beauty 
than  for  their  virtue.  •     The  complexion  of  the 
Russian  ladies  is  generally  bad.    With  the  sole 
exception  of  the  beautiful  princess  just  aUuded 
to  1  never  met  with  an  instance  ofthe  clear,  rosy, 

blooming  countenance,  the  offspring  of  health 
and  innocence,  that  so  strongly  characterises  the 
female  youth  of  England.  Whether  it  arises  from 
the  rigour  of  the  climate,  from  the  want  of  fresh 
air  ii^ their  stove-wanned  apartments,  the  diet, 
or  the  frequent  use  of  the  national  vapour-bath, 
I  shall  not  attempt  to  determine  ;  but,  1  repeat, 
their  complexions  are  seldom  good.  I  am  no 
friend  to  public  baths,  and  the  custom  of  ladtes 
flocking  to  them  so  frequently  as  the  Russians 

♦  Yet  though  the  Russian  ladies  are  not  often  handsome, 
the  men  very  frequently  are  so.  I  should  say,  a  majority 
of  the  officers  I  met  with  at  St.  Petersburg,  were  fine  men. 
I  am  unable  to  account  for  the  cause  (unices  their  being 
more  in  the  air  than  the  ladies  may  be  considered  as  such), 
but  the  fact  is  as  I  have  stated  it. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


59 


do :  no  physical  good  that  may  result  from  the 
practice  can,  in  my  mind,  compensate  for  the 
moral  injury  which  may,  and  I  believe  does,  in 
the  Russian  capital,  arise  from  it. 

It  has  been  regretted  by  many,  that  in  England 
we  have  no  public  baths ;  I,  for  one,  trust  we 
shall  never  have  tliem,  except  for  ornament: 
let  every  private  house  have  one  or  two,  if  pos- 
sible ;  but  let  us  have  no  public  bath,  for  both 
sexes  under  the  same  roof,  as  is  the  case  with 
our  northern  neighbours.  I  do  not  here  allude 
to  the  custom  of  men  and  women  by  hundreds 
bathing  promiscuously  in  the  same  room,  as  was 
the  practice  only  a  few  years  ago,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Neva  * ;  but  to  the  fact,  that  though  the 

*  At  Odessa,  even  now,  the  lower  orders  of  men  and 
women  bathe  at  mid-day,  as  well  as  at  other  times,  on  the 
shore  of  the  Black  Sea,  within  sight  of  the  Govemor-ge- 
neral's ;  and,  I  have  been  informed  also,  that  previous  to  the 
erection  of  a  private  canvass  bathing-room,  which  was  raised 
a  £ew  years  ago  for  the  upper  classes,  that  the  ladies  of 
Odessa  actually  bathed  themselves  in  the  same  open  manner, 
opposite  to  wliere  the  new  Boulevard  now  extends.    Be  this 
as  it  may,  the  following  I  can  state  on  my  own  knowledge:— 
The  police  directs  the  men  and  women  now  to  be  separate, 
and  has,  accordingly,  stuck  up  two  boards,  on  one  of  which 
is  written,  in  Russian  and  French,  «  Baths  for  women,"  and 
on  the  other,  «  Baths  for  men ;"  but  after  the  true  Russian 
fashion,  the  way  in  which  the  order  is  executed  defeats  its 
object:  for  the  two  posts  are  placed  nearly  close  together, 
so  that  where  the  female  bath  ends  the  male  begins ;  and 
thus  the  men  and  women  are  within  only  a  ^ew  feet  of  each 
other  (1829)! 

"  Until  very  lately,  the  common  or  public  baths  admitted, 
promiscuously,  into  one  large  room,  both  men  and  mmen  at  the 


i 


\i 


'I 


60 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


^ 


4 


sexes  are  now  separated,  yet  both  ladies   and 
gentlemen  keep  driving  up  to  the  same  house  to 
bathe.    "  We  entered,"  says  the  author  of  "  St 
Petersburg"  "  a  large  court-yard,  whicli  was  al- 
ready  filled  with    carriages  and  sledges,   while 
others  were  arriving  in  quick  succession  :  it  bemg 
the  usual  hour  of  bathing  (lialf-past  seven  p.  m.), 
me7i  and  women  of  all  classes,  some  followed  by 
a  servant  carrying  bundles  of  clothes,  others  with 
their  own  bundles  in  their  hands,  were  seen  going 
and  coming  to  and  from  the  bath-rooms."     St. 
Petersburg,   vol.  i.  p.  491.     In  the  same  work 
(page  497.),  is  also  the  following  observation  :  — 
"  1  have  seen  the  spacious  front  court-yard  at  the 
baths  of  Thrall,  the  principal  establislunent  of 
the  kind  in  St.  Petersburg,  literally  crowded  with 
handsome  equipages,  which  had  conveyed  a  g'rt?^/ 
number  of  ladies:'     1  avail  myself  purposely  of 
these  quotations,  instead  of  stating  the  result  of 
my  own  observations  ;  because  the  above  Author 
has  described  all  he  saw  in  Russia  in  the  most 
favourable  manner  possible,  and,  as  appears  to 
me,  too  favourably.     Pursuing  the  comparison 
between  the  English  and  Russian  ladies,  I  shall 
next  refer  to  a  practice  which  I  liave  seen  very 
frequently  adopted  by  those  of  the  highest  rank 
in  the  south  of  Russia ;  and  with  which,  I  will 


same  time  ;  when,  even  some  of  the  most  respectable  females 
of  the  middling  classes  would  attend  free  from  *  evil 
thought;  6\xch  being  the  force  of  custom."— **  St.  Peters- 
burg/' vol.  i.  p.  494. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


61 


venture  to  say,  the  female  sex  even  of  the  mid- 
dling classes  in  England  would  be  disgusted  :  I 
allude  to  the  custom  of  smoking  tobacco.      I 
have  seen,  in  the  court  circle,  ladies  who  have  as 
regularly  taken  their  cigar  after  dinner  as  the 
gentlemen ;  and  sometimes  I  have  observed  them 
smoking  with  a  long  Turkish  pipe.     One  of  these 
ladies,  when  thus  delightfully  employed,  asked 
me   "  whether  the  English  ladies   smoked,"  to 
wliich  I  answered,  that  "  I  had  never  seen  them 
do  so  ;"  upon  which,  she   immediately  added, 
"  what  would  they  say,  if  they  saw  us  now  ?"  I 
replied,  "  Madam,  it  is  not  for  me  to  surmise 
what  an  English  lady  might  think  upon  the  sub- 
ject."   My  fair  readers  may,  however,  now  judge 
for  themselves,  and  give  their   answer   to  the 
question  proposed  by  the  Russian  lady,  who  was 
the  wife  of  a  General,  and  born  a  Countess.     I 
have  also  seen  the  ladies  take  their  cigars  again 
in  the  evening,  and  smoke  while  playing  at  whist; 
this  is  the  estimate  which  I  have  formed  "  of 
things  as  they  are,  from  personal  observation  : " 
so  much  for  the  beauty  and  delicate  practices  of 
the  Russian  ladies ;  —now  for  their  education,  ac- 
complishments, and  morals.  That  there  are  ample 
means  for  young  ladies  to  be  scientifically  edu- 
cated  in  St  Petersburg,  at  the  "  Communaute 
des  Demoiselles  Nobles,"  and  the  "  Institute  of 
St  Catharine,"  I  most  willingly  allow;  but  the 
system  of  instruction  there  followed  is  carried 
to  a  most  ridiculous  extent,  without  the  chance 
of  any  benefit  resulting  either  to  the  girls  them- 


^ 


•      H 


G2 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


1^1 


II 


selves  or  to  others.     Thus,  Bishop  James  men- 
tions, that  upon  his  visit  to  the  former  institution, 
during  the  lecture  on  geometry,  "  two  young 
ladies  gave  the  admeasurement  of  a  polygon,  in 
very  good  mathematical  phraseolog}^ ;  but  natural 
philosophy  appeared  by  universal  confession  to 
be  the  favourite  study :"  he  also  states,  "  that 
one  evening,  dropping  into  the  house  of  a  lady 
of  very  high  rank,  in  St.  Petersburg,"  he  "  found 
her  party  employed  in  a  deep  discussion,  treat- 
ing of  the  polarity  of  the  rays  of  light,  and  the 
late  discovery  of  the  magnetic  property  of  the 
violet !  "     All  this  may  be  very  fine,  but  let  me 
ask,  "  is  it  of  any  real  use  ?"  Besides,  the  reader 
must  not  imagine,  for  an  instant,  that  every  lady 
in  Russia  is  able  to  talk  to  any  purpose  about 
the  "  polarity  of  the  rays  of  light."    A  great  por- 
tion  of  the  information  thus  acquired  at  the  In- 
stitutes is  lost  very  soon  after  the  young  ladies 
leave  them ;   for  where  will  they  find  the  hus- 
bands who  can  talk  with  them  on  such  topics,  or 
duly  appreciate  their  proficiency  in  such  refined 
branches  of  knowledge?  A  lady,  who  had  been 
herself  brought  up  in  one  of  these  institutions, 
has  frequently  expressed  to  me  her  unquahfied 
opinion,  that  the  education  thus  received  at  the 
price  of  banishment  from  relations  and  friends, 
for  a  period  of  from  six  to  nine  long  years,  is  too 
dearly  bought;  and  is,  in  ninety-nine  cases  out 
of  a  hundred,  useless  and  misapplied.    "  Of  what 
use,"  has  she  often  said  to  me,  "  is  it  for  girls  to 
be  taught  natural   philosophy,   and  geometry. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


63 


whose  future  fate  must  be  to  live  in  the  interior, 
where  tliere  can  be  no  society,  and  to  be  united 
to  husbands,  who,  perhaps,  know  not  even  the 
meaning  of  such  terms  ?"  for  it  is  a  fact,  as  no- 
torious  as  it  must  appear  strange  to  those  unac- 
quainted  with  the  nation,  that  the  gentlemen  in 
Russia,  speaking  generally,  are  as  under  edu- 
cated as  the  ladies  are  in  some  respects  over 
educated  in  the  public  establishments  before  re- 
ferred to.  *  Russia  is,  as  yet,  but  a  great  over- 
grown infant,  who  knows  not  how  to  apply  the 
things  which  may  be  placed  in  its  hands  to  their 
proper  uses ;  the  ladies  are  more  educated  than 
the  gentlemen ! 

Almost  every  person  in  Russia,  among  the 
respectable  classes  of  society,  either  is  or  has 
been  in  the  army  ;  and  the  acquirements  of  mih- 
tary  officers,  with  few  exceptions,  consist  of  little 
more  than  the  ability  to  speak  two  or  three 
foreign  languages.  Their  manners,  it  is  true, 
often  receive  a  kind  of  polish  f  from  the  privilege 
of  moving  in  the  best  society ;  but  they  are  not 
well  informed :  nor  is  this  to  be  wondered  at. 

.  ♦  In  accomplishments,  the  Russian  ladies  do  not  equal 
the  English  ;  that  elegant  instrument,  the  harp,  which  is  now 
so  common  with  us,  I  never  happen  to  have  seen  in  Russia. 
t  Which,  however,  does  not  prevent  them  from  appro- 
priatmg  the  drawing-room  floors  to  the  same  purposes 
that  the  lower  orders  with  us  employ  those  of  an  ale-house. 
Boxes  with  sand  in  them,  placed  at  the  corners  of  the 
rooms,  generally  form  part  of  the  furniture,  procured  by 
Russians  of  first-rate  delicacy ;  but  I  have  often  seen  the 
floor  preferred  !     Such  is  the  force  of  habit ! 


II 


If 


\ 


m 


<  s 


:  t 


64 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


n 


It  is  not  the  fault  of  the  men,  but  of  the  system.* 
Young  men  in  Russia  enter  the  army  usually 
about  the  age  when  those  who  are  destined  for 
trade  in  England  go  behind  the  counter;  at  which 
period  neither  possess  more  than  the  rudiments 
of  learning,  and  the  former  perhaps  not  even 
these.  Having  adopted  a  mihtary  life,  they  are 
subsequently  always  kept  with  their  respective 
regiments ;  and  even  if  they  should  be  so  dis- 
posed, they  never  have  the  opportunities  of  im- 
proving their  minds.     But  to  return  to  the  ladies. 

The   course   of  instruction   pursued   in   the 

«  Communaute  des  Demoiselles  Nobles,"   and 
the  "  Institute  of  St.  Catharine,"  is,  in  my  hum- 
ble  opinion,  by  no  means  adapted  to  their  sex, 
for  the  reasons  before  given  ;  but  the  physical 
treatment  is  worse.     As  an  instance,  —  what  can 
be  more  barbarous  or  injudicious  than  the  custom 
of  shutting  the  young  ladies  up  in  a  cloister  for 
nine  years ;  during  the  whole  of  which  period 
they  "  are  "  actually  "  not  allowed  to  quit  the 
establishment,  except  when  arty  of  their  relations 
happen  to  be  seriously  ill  and  require  their  pre- 
sence ! "     What  would  be  thought  of  such  a 
system  in  our  own  happy  isle  ?  could  the  nobi- 
lity and  gentry  of  England  submit  to  it?     I  do 

♦  Dr.  Lyall  observes,  concerning  a  General  of  whom  he 
is  speaking,  that  he  «  received,  what  is  called  in  Russia, 
a  genteel  education,  by  which  may  be  very  generally 
understood,  a  combination  of  French  levity  and  manners 
with  national  cunning  and  deceit,  and  the  faculty  of  speaking 
tivoy  three,  or  more  foreign  languages,  especially  French."-- 
"  Travels  in  Russia,"  vol.  i.  p.  20. 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


65 


not  hesitate  to  say,  as  a  physician,  that  I  consider 
It  calculated  to  injure  their  health ;  and  I  have 
been  informed  by  a  lady,  who  was  herself  a  pupil 
m  one  of  the  before-mentioned  institutions  for 
several  years,  that  scrofula  then  prevailed  to  a 
great  extent.     Is  the  diet  sufficiently  liberal  ?_ 
I  do  not  say  that  the  contrary  is  the  case ;  but 
the  amount  allowed  for  the  board  of  the  pupils 
appears  to  me  exceedingly  small.*     It  is  not, 
however,  their  health  alone  that  is  likely  to  suffer 
from  this  severe  seclusion  :  their  characters  must 
be  materially  influenced  by  it,  and  their  disposi- 
tions  soured.     It  must  tend  greatly  to  weaken, 
if  not  entirely  to  destroy,  the  affection  which 
children  naturally  entertain  for  their  parents, 
and  for  their  mothers  in  particular ;  and  must  in 
a  great  measure  dissolve  all  ties  of  relationship ; 
for  who  can  expect  that  a  girl  taken  from  the 
bosom  of  her  family  at  the  tender  age  of  eight, 

*  The  steward,  or  "  econome,"  of  the  «  Institute  of  St. 
Cathanne,"  according  to  tlie  author  of  «  St.  Petersburg  " 
"  is  allowed  by  the  treasurer  only  40  kopecks  a  day,  for 
each  pupil  to  supply  them  with  evert/  necessary  oflifpr  The 
lowest  servant  in  Russia  receives  always  half  a  rouble  a  day 
board  wages;  thus,  the  sum  allowed  for  the  board  of  the 
young  ladies,  at  the  above  institution,  is  4^.  per  day,  or  6/ 
1*.  U  per  annum,  while  the  sum  paid  the  servants  is  5d, 
per  day,  or  7/.  1 1^.  \d.  per  annum  !    The  latter  live  chiefly 
upon  black  or  rye  bread,  of  which  a  poud,  or  36  lbs.  English, 
costs  1  rouble  30  kopecks,  or  \M,     The  diflPerence  between 
the  price  of  good  white  bread  in  London  and  St.  Peters- 
burg  IS  not  80  great  as  might  be  imagined  from  the  price  of 


1 

I 


n 


i 


66  RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETEUSnURG. 

or  even  earlier,  should,  after  an  uninterruptccl 
absence  of  nine  years,  retain  any  very  fond  recol- 
lections of  it  ?  I  repeat,  tlierefore.  tl.is  lengtlicned 
and  complete  seclusion  is  calculated  to  render  the 
subiects  of  it  less  affectionate  and  dutiful  chU- 
dren ;  and  as  it  debars  them  from  expencncuig 
durin'^  earlv  youth  the  comforts  of  a  happy  home, 
they  become  less  capable  of  correctly  appreciat- 
ing, and  consequently  less  desirous  of  fully  sup- 
plying, in  the  domestic  relations  of  more  advanced 
life,  those  advantages  which  they  tliemselves  never 
witnessed  or  enjoyed  :  it  is  calculated,  there- 
fore, to  render  them  less  exemplary,  less  valuable 
as  wives  and  parents  also.     The  female  character 
is  not  to  be  formed  in  public  schools,  and  by 
public  examinations  before  sovereigns  and  minis- 
ters of  state :  this  leads  to  a  love  of  display,  and 
is  calculated  to  produce  confident  and  forward, 
not  modest  and  retiring,  women  ;  and  to  this 
system,  as  well  as  to  the  absence  of  all  other 
eli'^ible  means  of  education  in  the  empire,  is  to 
be°attributed  the  present  state  of  female  society 
in  Russia;  the  nature  of  which  maybe  perfectly 
collected  from  the  opinion  entertained  witli  re- 
spect to  it  by  the  late  Empress-mother,  who  is 
universally  aUowed  to  have  been  a  strictly  vir- 
tuous woman,  a  fond  mother,  and  a  most  excel- 
lent princess,  and  therefore  one  whose  judgment 
upon  the  subject  must  be  entitled  to  the  highest 
respect*     This  opinion  is  given  in  the  convers- 

*  Her  Majesty  was  a  German  princess,  being  Sophia 
Dorothea  of  Wirtemberg  Stutgard. 


m 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


67 


ation  held  by  Her  Majesty  with  the  author  of 
"  St.  Petersburg,"  concerning  those  institutions 
the  merits  of  which  we  have  been  discussin«-. 
We  find  «  Her  Majesty  next  discoursed  on  tlTe 
system  of  female  education  pursued  at  the  two 
Colleges  of  St.  Catharine  and  the  Demoiselles 
Nobles."     «  I  ventured,"  said  the  author,  "  to 
remark,  that  a  residence  of  nine  years,  without  a 
total  cliange  of  air  and  scene,  or  in  the  relations 
of  life  and  mode  of  living,  were  it  only  for  once 
during  that  period,  or  witliout  passing  a  certain 
time  at  home  in  the  bosom  of  their  families,  was 
calculated  to  weaken  tiie  constitution  of  the  pupils, 
impede  the  full  developement  of  their  persons,' 
and  not  improve  their  general  appearance."    Her 
Majesty  replied,  « It  would  be  next  to  impossible 
in  Russia  to  follow  the  plan  of  sending  the  young 
ladies  to  their  homes  at  stated  periods  of  the 
year,  considering  the  immense  distances  which 
many  of  them  would  have  to  travel  in  so  vast  an 
empire.     Besides,  the  veri/  limited  education  of 
some  of  the  parents,  and  the  difficulty  of  keeping 
an  eye  over  the  moral  conduct  of  many  of  the 
pupils  while  spending  their  holidays,  presented 
insurmountable  obstacles  to  the  plan  of  vacations 
followed  in  great  seminaries.     How  could  -we 
answer  for  the  character  of  a  young  lady,"  ob- 
served the  Empress,  "  placed  beyond  our  notice 
for  a  month  or  six  weeks  in  every  year,  even 
though  she  were  living  with   relations  during 
that  time  ?  "     «  Non,  monsieur  le  Docteur,  nos 
jeunes  demoiselles  doivent  etre  comme  la  femme 

F  2 


i 


68 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG, 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


69 


ni 


If* 


•I 


de  Cesar.     On  ne  doit  ni  les  soup9onner- 
parlerd'elles."* 

Thank  God!  things  are  in  a  different  state  with 
us.     A  young  lady's  conduct  would  never  be 
suspected  in  England,  merely  because  she  had 
been  on  a  visit  to  her  parents  and  relations  "  for 
a  month  or  six  weeks."     In  this  country  maternal 
example  among  the  superior  classes  of  society 
need  not  be  dreaded,  as  fraught  with  danger  to 
the  unformed  characters  of  its  younger  branches. 
On  the  contrary,  that  example,  as  pure  here  as 
it  is  powerful  eveiy  where,  is  felt  by  all  to  be  the 
most  effectual  means  of  securing  to  future  gener- 
ations the  moral  excellence  so  eminently  distin- 
guishing  the  present  race  of  English  ladies. 

ALEXANDER   POUSCHKINE. 

This  votary  of  the  muses,  « the  Byron  of  Rus- 
sia," for  being  the  author  of  an  "  Ode  to 
Liberty,"  was  sent  by  the  Emperor  Alexander 
to  Siberia,  where,  but  for  the  accession  of  Ni- 
cholas and  the  intercession  of  his  friends,  he 
might  have  remained  and  perhaps  ended  his 
days.  1  remember  well  having  had  this  liberal 
bard  pointed  out  to  me  one  evening  at  the 
«'  English  club  ;"  and  it  was  hinted  at  the  time, 
that  if  he  did  not  take  more  care  than  he  ap- 
peared disposed  to  do,  he  might,  perhaps,  have 
to  perform  the  same  journey  over  again  with- 

•  Her  Majesty's  opinion,  therefore,  with  respect  to  Rus- 
sian young  ladies,  appears  to  have  been,  that  the  only  way 
of  rendering  their  purity  above  suspicion  is  to  lock  them  up. 


out  any  hope  of  ever  returning.  The  author  of 
"  St.  Petersburg  "  alludes  to  the  circumstance, 
and  glosses  it  over  with  the  following  flowery 
language : — "  My  literary  readers  are  doubtlessly 
acquainted  with  the  temporary  displeasure  which 
this  youthful  and  ardent  lyrical  poet  excited  in 
the  highest  quarter,  previous  to  the  accession  of 
Nicholas,  by  his  *  Ode  to  Liberty.*  "  Who  that 
was  not  previously  acquainted  with  the  fact,  or 
was  not  familiar  with  the  customs  of  Russia^ 
would  for  a  moment,  from  this  sentence,  suspect 
what  was  really  the  case  ?  It  might  be  supposed, 
perhaps,  that  he  had  been  forbidden  to  come  to 
court,  or  had  received  a  reprimand  from  his 
Imperial  Majesty ;  but  who  would  have  imagined 
that  this  "  temporary  displeasure  "  was  nothing 
less  than  being  hurried  off  to  Siberia  like  the 
worst  of  felons  ?  —  yet  such  was  the  fact ! 

EQUIPAGES    OF    THE    RUSSIANS.. 

The  author  of  "  St.  Petersburg"  observes, 
that  "  the  Russians  display  great  magnificence 
in  their  equipages :"  I  cannot  at  all  agree  with 
the  opinion  so  expressed.  Here  and  there,  in 
St.  Petersburg,  a  handsome  chariot  maybe  seen; 
but,  speaking  generally,  the  carriages  are  old 
fashioned  and  shabby  ;  and  at  Odessa,  the  third 
town  as  to  importance  in  the  Russian  empire, 
they  are  of  the  most  miserable  description  pos- 
sible. I  can  only  remember  three  or  four  per- 
sons  resident  there  who  had  good  carriages,  and 
these  not  such  as  we  should  call  "handsome"  in 

F  3 


70 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


71 


/' 


m 


London.     They  are,  it  is  true,  both  in  Odessa 
and  at  St.  Petersburg,  nearly  all  drawn  by>wr 
horses,  but  the  traces  between  the  wheelers  and 
the  leaders  are  of  such  enormous  length,  as  fre- 
quently  to  produce  a  most  ridiculous  appearance ; 
for  in  turning  tlie  corner  of  a  street,  it  is  not 
unusual   to   see    the    leaders   long  before   the 
wheelers  cpme  into  view ;  and  the  postillions, 
with   that   perversity   which    characterises    the 
lower  order  of  Russians,  always  sit  upon  the  off 
instead  of  the  near  horse  (contrary  to  the  prac- 
tice with  us  and  other  nations),  in  consequence 
of  which  their  riglit  hands  are  rendered  com- 
paratively of  little  use,  and  they  have  mucli  less 
command  over  the  animals  they  drive.     There 
are  many  good  horses  in  the  Russian  capital, 
but  they  cannot  generally  be  put  in  comparison 
with  the  countless  multitudes  of  beautiful  crea- 
tures  of  the  same  description  that  are  to  be  daily 
seen  in  the  British  metropolis;  and  in  Odessa 
I  could  pick  out  about  a  dozen  equipages,  which, 
if  driven  in  the  streets  of  London,  would  collect 
a  mob  around  them,  in  consequence  of  their  gro- 
tesque appearance.     Imagine  one  of  our  oldest 
fashioned  and  most  ruinous  hackney  coaches,  to 
which  are  yoked  four  small,  shaggy,  dirty  horses, 
with  harness  which  appears  never  to  have  been 
cleaned  since  it  was  first  put  into  use ;  add  to 
these  a  bearded  coachman,  with  a  red  shawl 
round  his  waist,  holding  the  reins  in  both  hands, 
and  a  short  whip  hanging  from  the  little  finger 
of  his  right  hand  5    an   urchin  of  a  postillion. 


seated  upon  a  high  Kozak  saddle  on  the  off. 
horse,  with  a  dirty  greasy  footman  behind,  fur- 
nished with  an  enormously  large  worn-out 
cocked  hat,  and  some  idea  may  be  formed  of 
a  majority  of  the  "  magnificent"  equipages  which 
are  daily  parading  in  due  state  the  thinly  peopled 
streets  of  Odessa.  What  elegant  assemblages  of 
such  vehicles  have  I  seen  at  the  weekly  dinners 
of  the  Governor-general !  Perhaps,  however,  the 
best  proof  that  even  the  higher  orders  of  Rus- 
sians are  little  accustomed  to  see  really  hand- 
some equipages  will  be  found  in  an  anecdote 
which  General  Leon  Naryschkine  *  is  very  fond 
of  telling  of  himself;  namely,  that  he  mistook, 
upon  his  arrival  at  Dover,  the  mail  coach  for 
one  of  the  private  carriages  of  the  king  of 
England. 

NUMBER  OF  MURDERS  IN  RUSSIA  AND  IN  ENGLAND. 

I  liave  frequently,  while  in  Russia,  heard  re- 
proachful allusions  made  to  the  number  of  mur- 
ders which  take  place  in  England.  "  I  never 
take  up  an  Enghsh  journal,"  said  a  Russian  gen- 
tleman to  me  one  day,  "  but  I  find  a  murder." 
"  True,"  answered  I,  "  our  papers  do  certainly 
too  often  contain  accounts  of  such  dreadful  oc- 
currences, but  it  is  because  all  that  happen  in 
the  whole  extent  of  the  United  Kingdom  are  at 
once  published ;  and  your  journals  never  contain 
them,  not  because  murders  occur  less  frequently 

*  "  Leon  Narischkine"  — '«  being  brave  as  a  lion,'  and 
as  spiritucl  as  he  is  brave."  —  St.  Petersburg,  vol.  ii.  p.  363. 


I': 


72 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


[\  i 


in  Russia  than  with  us,  but  because  your  govern- 
ment  never  allows  the  details  to  be  published ; 
and  eleven  twelfths  of  the  population  never  know 
or  suspect  that  they  have  happened ;  while  ours, 
on  the  contrary,  not  only  sanctions  such  a  pro- 
ceeding,  but  encourages  it,  for  the  purpose  of 
aiding  the  ends  of  public  justice."     But  a  truce 
to  mere  opinions.     The  reader  shall  now  have 
some  facts,  upon  which  he  may  form  his  own 
calculations.    From  the  journal  of  St.  Petersburg 
it  appears,  that  in  the  space  of  six  years  no  less 
than   seven   thousand  and  forty-seven  murders 
were  officially  declared  to  have  taken  place ;  and 
there  can  be  no  question  that  this  statement  falls 
greatly  short  of  the  real  number  known  to  have 
been  committed  during  that  period.     The  num- 
bers in  each  year  stand  as  follows :  — 


In  the  year  1823 

m 

- 

-  1099. 

1824 

• 

• 

-  1287. 

1825 

. 

W 

-  1110. 

1826 

• 

. 

-  1095. 

1827 

. 

m 

-  1226. 

1828 

« 

m 

-  1230. 

About  the  time  of  my  arrival  in  Odessa  a  most 
diabolical  murder  was  perpetrated  upon  a  gentle- 
man there  by  his  own  coachman,  in  concert  with 
another  individual :  the  former  was  discovered 
and  knouted  in  the  town ;  yet  the  Odessa  Ga- 
zette  did  not  mention  the  circumstance,  and  I 
never  heard  of  it  until  by  accident  long  after- 
wards. 


Ill 


"'g 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


73 


RUSSIAN    SERVAGE. 

The  Russian  slaves,  according  to  the  author 
of  "  St.  Petersburg,"  are  no  slaves  at  all :  —  "  the 
serf  is  not  in  a  real  state  of  bondage  ;" — yet  he 
cannot  leave  the  village  in  which  he  was  born 
upon  any  pretence  whatever,  without  the  per- 
mission of  his  seigneur ;  nor  cease  to  labour  three 
days  in  the  week  for  liim  without  being  severely 
punished  for  the  omission.  The  system  of  laws 
in  Russia  respecting  the  slaves  (admitting  slavery 
to  be  at  all  justifiable)  may  be  good ;  but  the 
question  is,  how  far  are  these  laws  acted  upon  ? 
If  the  seigneur  or  intendant  of  an  estate  should 
require  the  serfs  to  work  for  a  longer  period  than 
the  law  prescribes,  is  it  to  be  imagined  that  they 
would  dare  to  refuse  ?  certainly  not.  But  suppose 
they  did  refuse,  and  were  to  be  flogged  in  conse- 
quence, will  any  one  believe  that  they  would  be 
likely  to  obtain  redress  for  this  injustice  ?  "  Every 
proprietor  of  land  has  the  right  to  punish  a  re- 
fractory or  vicious  serf*  by  having  him  flogged 
on  the  back  ;  '*  and  the  said  proprietor,  or  more 
likely  his  intendant,  will  be  the  judge  of  what 
constitutes  a  "  vicious  serf.'*  It  is  well  known 
that  these  really  or  reputed  "  vicious  "  slaves  are 
those  selected  as  soldiers  when  the  levies  for  the 
army  occur,  if  the  intendant  choose  that  such 
should  be  the  case ;  and  it  is  therefore  pretty 
evident  that  the  slaves  will  be  afraid  to  oppose 
any  injustice  of  which  the  former  may  be  guilty 
towards  them,  except  when  driven  to  the  last 


A 


Itl 


74  RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBUIKJ. 

extremity.     Dr.  Lyall,  who  was  well  qualified  to 
crive  a  correct  opinion  upon  the  subject,  from  his 
fong  residence  in  Russia,  and  his  knowledge  of 
the  language,  observes,  that  "among  those  to  be 
given  away  as  soldiers,  though  at  times  deter- 
mined by  ballot,  are  sure  to  be  included  all  use- 
less  persons,— all   individuals  uho  have  given 
^ff^ncey—in  a  word,  as  the  Russians  express  it, 
all  Mnauvais  sujets.'"     This  last  is  a  very  fa- 
vourite  term  among  them.    But  it  is  gravely  said, 
«  of  every  excess  of;  or  unjust  punishment,  the  serf 
has  the  right  of  complaining  to  the  police  ;  and 
the  knowledge  of  tliis  fact  alone  would  be  suf-  • 
ficient  to  restrain  even  the  most  inhuman."  Com- 
plaining to  the  police,  I  fear,  in  many  cases  would 
be  of  little  avail,  even  allowing  that  the  slave  was 
not  prevented  from  so  doing ;  I  am  equally  afraid 
that  the  dread  of  such  complaint  would  have  as 
little  power  in  restraining  ill-disposed  seigneurs 
or  intendants  from  acts  of  oppression.     Indeed 
a  fact  related  by  the  author  of  "  St.  Petersburg*' 
himself  proves  that  the  slaves,  if  ill  treated  by 
their   seigneurs,  are   not  likely  to   obtain   any 
redress  from  the  village  or  local  authorities.    He 
says,  ''  On  a  recent  occasion  the  Emperor  having 
been  informed  that  some  young  officers  in  one 
of  the  provinces   had  been  guilty  of  excesses 
tou^ards  their   peasants^    and  that  the   remon- 
strances of  the  governor,  made  in  consequence 
of  the  complaints  of  the  peasants,  had  proved 
useless,  ordered  the  tribunal  of  tutelage  to  take 
the  manai^^emcnt   of  the   estates   into   its  own 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


75 


liands,"  &c.  Here  the  seigneurs  had  been 
guilty  of  "  excesses  "  (no  doubt  horrible  oppres- 
sion and  cruelty)  towards  their  slaves,  the  latter 
had  complained  to  the  authorities,  and  could 
obtain  no  redress  ;  when  the  governor  even  was 
applied  to,  he  only  used  "  remonstrances^'  towards 
the  young  tyrants,  which,  as  might  be  expected, 
had  no  effect.  And  had  not  the  Emperor,  by 
some  lucky  chance  "  been  informed"  of  the 
circumstances,  there  can  be  no  question  but  that 
they  would  have  escaped  totally  unpunished,  and 
the  sufferings  of  the  slaves  would  have  been  at 
least  continued  and  most  probably  increased. 
This  act  of  the  Emperor  redounds  very  much  to 
his  credit,  and  is  more  truly  honourable  to  him 
than  if  he  had  added  thousands  of  square  miles 
wrested  from  neighbouring  powers,  to  the  gi- 
gantic, and  already  too  widely  extended  empire 
over  which  he  rules.  But  how  seldom  can  such 
complaints  reach  his  ear!  A  circumstance,  which 
occurred  soon  after  my  arrival  at  Odessa,  may 
also  be  mentioned  here  in  support  of  what  I 
have  been  advancing.  The  wife  of  a  slave,  who 
had  been  cruelly  treated  by  his  master,  and  con- 
fined in  irons,  reached  Odessa,  and,  on  one  of 
the  public  days  of  audience,  complained  to  the 
Governor-general  and  implored  his  aid.  'J'he 
latter  thought  the  matter  so  serious,  that  he  im- 
mediately despatched  Prince  Herheoulidzef,  one 
of  his  aides  de  camp,  accompanied  by  a  gendarme 
in  a  telega  with  post  horses,  to  the  spot  where 
the  occurrence  had  taken  place,  which  was  some 


n 


'f^' 


m 


76 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


77 


distance  from  Odessa,  with  strict  orders  to  re- 
lease the  slave,  to  enquire  into  the  affair,  and 
report  to  himself  upon  the  subject.     What  the 
result  was  1  know  not,  nor  is  it  of  any  conse- 
quence  to  my  argument,  the  whole  case  showing 
that  no  redress  or  reUef  could  be  obtained  on 
the  spot  from  the  local  poUce ;  or  else,  why  did 
the  wife  travel  a  considerable  distance  to  apply 
to  the  Governor-general  ?    Had  the  slave  been 
unmarried,  perhaps  his  case  would  never  have 
been  known ;  for  who  would  have  dared  to  come 
to  Odessa  in  his  behalf?    As  for  the  "  Starosta 
or  Elder,  who  is  elected  by  deputies,  and  chosen 
from  amongst  themselves  by  a  majority  with  the 
unanimous  consent  of  the  inhabitants,"  I  can 
only  say,  it  is  not  very  likely  that  he  will  oppose 
the  seigneur's  wishes,  nor  can  I  believe  him  to 
be  proof  against  a  bribe,  when  it  is  notorious 
that  persons  of  much  higher  rank  in  Russia  are 
easily  influenced  that  way.    For  the  same  reason, 
I  do  not  think  that  the  seigneur  need  much  dread 
the  verdict  of  the  coroner's  inquest,  which,  we  are 
told,  is  held  upon  the  death  of  a  slave  from  the 
violence  of  punishment  inflicted ;  since,  as  Dr. 
Macmichael  observes,  "  should  this  be  exercised 
so  severely  as  to  occasion  fatal  consequences,  it 
is  well  understood,  that  the  bribe  of  100  roubles 
will  purchase  the  silence  and  connivance  of  the 
magistrate ;  and,  when  it  is  recollected  that  most 
of  these  civil  officers  have  been  raised  from  the 
rank  of  domestics,  and  that  their  yearly  appoint- 
ments amount  only  to  100  roubles,  it  is  not  rea- 


sonable  to  expect  that  they  should  be  quite 
inaccessible  to  temptations  of  a  pecuniary  na- 
ture." The  serfs,  we  are  informed,  moreover, 
"  should  they  prefer  it,  may  at  once  become  the 
real  farmers  of  the  land,  by  agreeing  to  give  an 
annual  sum  previously  settled."  When  the  serfs 
have  the  land  thus  in  their  own  possession,  they 
may,  it  is  well  known,  and  often  do,  live  com- 
fortably, and  realise  money:  but  the  fact  is, 
they  have  not  the  option  of  so  doing.  At  this 
moment  I  recollect  instances  of  two  ladies, 
owners  of  lands  in  the  south  of  Russia,  who 
refuse  the  obroc  or  capitation  tax,  and  insist  upon 
exacting  the  labour  of  their  serfs,  in  spite  of 
"  agents  entailing  a  greater  expense."  Notwith- 
standing that  the  intendant  upon  one  of  these 
estates  (formerly  a  colonel  in  the  army)  is  paid 
500/.  per  annum,  the  proprietress  of  course 
receives  more  than  would  be  the  case  if  she 
accepted  the  obroc ;  otherwise  we  cannot  sup- 
pose that  she  would  follow  a  practice,  which  is 
considered  illiberal,  and  must,  therefore,  be  un- 
popular among  the  slaves  ;  such,  however,  is  the 
fact.  After  all  then  that  has  been  advanced  by 
the  "  President,"  and  all  that  I  have  myself 
heard  and  seen  while  resident  in  the  country,  I 
am  still  inclined  to  believe,  that  the  Russian 
peasant  is  an  absolute  slave  ;  though,  I  also 
believe,  that  in  many  respects,  his  haughty 
seigneur  is  the  same  *  ;  and,  that  "  if  the  noble 

•  "  The  power  exercised  by  the  Emperor  over  all  classes 
of  the  nobility,  is  of  as  extraordinary  a  nature  as  the  do- 


if 


i1  1[  liirtiiiiiiiifaiiM 


^^ 


\i 


78  RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 

is  entitled  to  regard  his  serfs  as  belonging  to  the 
soil,  he  has  himself,  on  the  other  hand,^  no  pro- 
tection  against  the  mandate  of  the  Emperor, 
which  may  send  him  to  Siberia,  without  assign- 
ing  any  cause  for  his  exile/'— Macmichael's 
Journey,  p.  22. 

CAPITAL  PUNISHMENTS  IN  RUSSIA. 

"  Of  course  you  are  aware,"  says  M.  Le  Pro- 
cureur*,  "  that  the  pain  of  death  was  abolished 
in  Russia  by  our  Empress  Elizabeth."     I  have 
had  this  specious  observation,  this  attempt  to 
create  a  false  impression,  more  than  once  made 
to  myself  while  resident  in  Russia,  and  have  on 
every  occasion  proved  to  the  party  who  uttered 
it,  that  I  was  not  to  be  deceived  by  such  a 
flimsy  argument  as  to  the  real  state  of  the  case; 
and  I  confess  I  was  somewhat  surprised  to  find 
it  repeated    once   more   in   "  St.  Petersburg." 
That  the  punishment  of  death  was  abolished  by 
an   ukase   of  the   Empress   Elizabeth    nobody 
doubts ;  but   what  avails   this,  if  the   reigning 
sovereign  can  and  does  inflict  it  at  his  pleasure? 
and  that  he  possesses  both  the  power  and  the  will 
to  punish  capitally,  is  proved  by  what  took  place 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


79 


minion  of  the  latter  over  their  slaves ;  neither  can  they 
marry  without  the  Imperial  consent,  or  select  for  themselves 
a  profession ;  and  their  property,  though  by  more  indirect 
means,  is  in  some  sort  subjected  to  the  same  authority."  — 
James's  Tour,  vol.  i.  p.  420. 

*  Vide  «  St.  Petersburg,"  vol.  ii.  p.  439. 


less  than  five  years  ago.  In  the  conspiracy* 
which  occurred  upon  the  accession  of  the  present 
Emperor  to  the  throne  of  Russia  thirtj/  six  in- 
dividuals were  condeiimed  to  death y  of  whom 
five  or  six  were  hanged  t  at  the  fortress  of  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, and,  I  believe,  afterwards  burned.  This 
fact,  although  there  can  be  little  doubt  as  to 
the  sufferers  meriting  their  fate,  is  in  itself  a 
complete  refutation  of  the  assertion,  that  direct 
capital  punishments  do  not  exist  in  Russia,  such 
being  obviously  the  impression  which  M.  Le  Pro- 
cureur  would  wish  to  make  upon  the  mind  of  his 

*  When  describing  the  breaking  out  of  this  conspiracy 
the  author  of  **  St.  Petersburg,"  in  his  fondness  for  the  use 
of  the  French  language,  makes  the  Emperor  Nicholas  ad- 
dress the  rebel  soldiers  in  French  :  —  "  En  avant,  marche  ! 
Voyons,**  said  the  Emperor,  "  jusqu'oii  ira  votre  revoke :  me 
voila  seul  devant  vous,  chargez  vos  armes ! "  He  doubtless 
forgot  that  the  Russian  common  soldiers  neither  speak  nor 
understand  that  language ;  and  I  presume,  therefore,  that 
the  Emperor  addressed  them  in  Russ,  and  not  in  French, 
and  that  the  author  copied,  inadvertently,  the  words  of 
M.  Ancelot's  **  Six  Mois  en  Russie,"  instead  of  translating 
them. 

f  This  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  time  that  execution 
by  hanging  took  place  in  Russia,  and  further,  that  it  was 
ordered  by  the  Emperor  for  the  purpose  of  rendering  their 
sentence  more  degrading  to  the  culprits,  who  were  military 
officers,  some  having  attained  the  rank  of  colonel.  As  no 
one  could  be  found  in  St.  Petersburg  qualified  to  act  as 
executioner,  the  hangman  was  sent  for  from  Finland.  Upon 
being  turned  off,  the  rope  by  which  one  of  them  was  sus- 
pended broke,  in  consequence  of  which  he  fell  and  sustained 
severe  injury :  just  before  he  was  again  suspended,  he  ex- 
claimed ^*  this  is  too  cruel  to  be  hanged  at  twice.'' 


80 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


81 


II 


auditor,  and  what  all  readers  (personally  unac- 
quainted with  Russia)  would  be  led  to  suppose 
on  perusing  the  above  quotation  from  the  work 
in  question.    I  say  direct  capital  punishments,  for 
who  can  tell  how  many  are  cut  off  indirectly  ? 
It  is  generally  known  that  the  universal  punish- 
ment in  Russia  for  all  real  or  imputed  crimes  is 
banishment  to  the  mines  of  Siberia ;  and  out  of 
the  countless  multitudes   of  unfortunate   crea- 
tures  who  are  sent  to  that  horrid  region,  how 
many  return  ?  *     It   cannot  be  supposed  for  a 
moment  but  that  during  a  journey  of  perhaps 
from  fifteen  hundred  to  two  thousand  or  more 
miles  on  foot,  during  the  severity  of  a  northern 
winter,  probably,  many,  very  many,  must  drop 
by  the  way,  and  die  from  fatigue  and  exhaustion: 
but  who  ever  hears  of  their  death  ?  there  are  no 
means  by  which  their  friends  or  the  public  can 
obtain  any  tidings  of  them,  or  ascertain  whether 
they  are  still  living  or  have  paid  the  debt  of 
nature  ;  and,  if  dead,  whether  they  have  died 
naturally  or  otherwise.      The  administration  of 
justice,  as  it  is  termed,  is  more  or  less  corrupt 
all  over  the  empire,  in  proportion  to  the  distance 
of  any  place  from  St.  Petersburg,  or  the  facilities 
of  communication  ^aith  the  Emperor^  and  conse- 
quently the  greater  or  less  probability  as  to  His 
Majesty  being   informed   of  the  abuses  which 
may  be   committed.      In   Siberia  it   must  be, 
therefore,  in  the  worst  possible  state ;  but  ad- 


♦  "  Few  return  to  carry  tidings  of  the  mines  in  the  East. 
—  Lyairs  Travels,  vol.  i.  p.  139. 


♦♦ 


ditional  grounds  for  such  corruption  exist  in 
this  country  of  exiles.     In  the  first  place,  be- 
cause the  governors,  and  particularly  all  the  su- 
bordinate officers,  must  be>  speaking  generally, 
low  and  needy  persons;   for   who  can   expect 
reputable  men  to  accept  willingly  offices  in  such 
a  district  ?  and,  secondly,  on  account  of  the  diffi- 
culty or  impossibiUty  of  forwarding  any  com- 
plaints to  St.  Petersburg,  though  they  may  re- 
late to  the  most  flagrant  instances  of  oppression ; 
and  even  if  forwarded,  the  little  probability  of 
their  producing  due  eflfect  from  the  suspicion 
with  which  all  such  communications  must  na- 
turally be  viewed  by  the  Emperor  :  every  thing 
here  contributes  to  render  injustice  and  villany 
secure.     But  let  us  see  what  Dr.  Lyall,  a  high 
authority  on  the  subject,  says;  —  "  In  my  opinion 
the  state  of  civil  administration  in  Russia  cannot 
be  represented  in  too  black  colours.     In  so  far 
as  regards  Siberia,  the  corruption,  the  venality, 
and   the   oppression,    of  the    legislature    were 
latterly   most   lamentable    and   incredible.      A 
sufficient  confirmation  of  its  woful  condition  is  . 
afforded  by  the  fact,  that  when  the  late  governor 
of  that  part  of  the  Russian  territory.  General  Spe- 
ranski,  left  his  situation,  an  immense  number  (be- 
tween 500  and  600  individuals),  who  were  in  the 
tribunals,  and  who  had  command  over  their  fellow- 
creatures,  were  thrown  into  prison,  because  that 
well  meaning  man,  a  real  friend  to  his  country,  had 
exposed  their  nefarious  practices  and  conduct."  * 

*  Lyall's  Travels,  vol.  i.  p.  93. 
G 


S2 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBUUC, 


■I' 


i 


It  must  therefore  be  evident,  in  spite  of  all  the 
vain  boasting  about  there  being  no  capital  punish- 
ments  in  Russia  *,  that  they  are  inflicted  when- 
ever  occasion  requires  ;  or  rather,  whenever  the 
autocrat  chooses ;  and,  moreover,  that  numbers, 
though  not  sentenced  to  death,  die  annually  in 
the  execution  of  their  sentences  of  banishment, 
without  taking  into  consideration  the  many  who 
doubtless  expire  during  or  after  the  punishment 
of  the  knout  t,  and  from  other  causes  ;— thus  m 
Russia,  those  who  are  only  sentenced  to  banish- 
ment frequently  meet  with  death  in  addition  ; 
whereas  in  England,  it  is  well  known  that  out 
of  the  unfortunate  persons  who  liave  been  found 
guilty  of  offences  declared  capital  by  our  laws, 
a  small  portion  only  actually  undergo  the  ex- 
treme penalty  of  death  ;  the  remainder,  an  im- 
mense  majority,  experience  the  clemency  of  the 
sovereign,  and  have  their  sentences  commuted 
to  banishment— not  to  regions  similar  to  those 
of  Siberia,  not  to  unhealthy  mines,  but  to   a 
fertile,  temperate,  and  salubrious  climate,  and 
even  under  the  cheering  prospect,  that  if  theu* 
future  conduct  should  be  correct  in  their  de- 
graded  condition,   they  may  eventually  attain 
pecuniary  competence  and  comparative  respect- 

*  If,  as  M.  Le  Procureur  says,  capital  punishments  were 
abolished  by  the  Empress  Elizabeth,  then  the  Emperor 
Nfcholas  has  had  the  honour  of  re-establishing  them. 

t  They  suffer  the  knout ;  that  is,  they  suffer  dreadful 
scourging ;  and,  though  they  are  not  formally  put  to  death, 
many  of  them  die  of  the  cruel  wounds  they  receive.  — 
Anecdotes  of  the  Russian  Empire. 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


83 


ability  in  the  colony  to  which  they  have  been 
sent,  for  the  protection  of  their  better-disposed 
countrymen  in  England. 


RUSSIAN    STOVES. 

Notwithstanding  the  very  favourable  descrip- 
tion which  has  been  given  of  the  Russian  peetch 
or  stove  by  the  author  of  a  recent  work  on  St. 
Petersburg,  I  shall  venture  to  make  a  few  ob- 
servations upon  the  same  subject,  wherein  I  differ 
a  little  in  opinion  from  him,  probably  owing  to 
my  greater  experience  concerning  it,  in  conse- 
quence of  having  sojourned  a  longer  time  in 
Russia.  The  stove  in  question  is  certainly  an 
excellent  method  of  heating  an  apartment,  though 
it  does  not  possess  all  the  advantages  some  have 
imagined ;  it  is  still  imperfect,  has  several  in- 
conveniences inseparable  from  its  use,  and  if  not 
well  managed  is  very  dangerous.  It  does  not 
afford  "an  equal  degree"  of  heat  through  the 
rooms  as  stated ;  that  part  nearest  the  stove  being, 
of  course,  always  the  hottest.  One  very  great  ob- 
jection to  the  use  of  the  Russian  stove  is,  that  it 
prevents  the  air,  in  the  apartments  where  it  is  em- 
l)loyed,  from  being  renewed,  which  circumstance 
must  unquestionably  be  injurious  to  health ;  and 
may  possibly  be  one  cause  why,  as  I  have  before 
observed,  the  complexion  of  the  Russian  ladies 
is  so  rarely  good.  The  windows  of  the  houses, 
during  winter,  have  double  sashes,  and  these  are 
rendered  almost  air-tight  by  means  of  tow,  putty, 
paste,  and  ))aper ;  and  the  doors  are  also  double  ; 

G  "2 


Mi 


!i 


M 


84 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


f'» 


I    t 


[« 


very  little  communication,  therefore,  can  take 
place  between  the  external  air  and  the  air  in  the 
apartments,  which  must  consequently  be  dete- 
riorated in  quality  and  rendered  imfit  for  respir- 
ation.    Indeed,  so  palpable  has  this  fact  become 
to  many  foreigners  resident  in  St.  Petersburg, 
and  even  to  some  of  the  Russians  themselves,  that 
in  their  houses,  particularly  those  of  our  country- 
men, will  generally  be  found  the  English  open 
fire-place  added  to  the  Russian  stove,  for  the  ex- 
press purpose  of  remedying  the  defect  I  have 
just  been   noticing.     Count  Vorontzof  has   an 
English  fire-place  in  his  own  sitting-room,  both 
in  his  house  at  St.  Petersburg  and  in  that  at 
Odessa ;  but  I  must  say  the  Russians,  speaking 
generally,  adhere  pertinaciously  to  the  use  of  the 
peetch.     With  respect  to  the  variation  of  tempe- 
rature which  may  take  place  in  a  room  furnished 
with  a  stove  in  the  Russian  metropolis,  I  cannot 
pretend  to  give  an  opinion,  as  I  did  not,  while 
there,  pay  much  attention  to  the  state  of  the  ther- 
mometer in  my  room ;  but  when  I  was  resident 
at  Odessa  I  had  numerous  occasions  and  great 
necessity  for  such  observation,  during  the  severe 
winter  of  1828-9,  and  can  therefore  speak  with 
confidence  upon  the  subject.    My  apartments  by 
no  means  remained  of  the  same  temperature  at 
all  times  during  the  twenty-four  hours,  ("the  heat 
of  the  stove  continuing  unabated;")  and  in  conse- 
quence of  their  becoming  gradually  cooler,  I  found 
it  sometimes  necessary  to  have  them  heated  twice 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  early  and  late.     In  the 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


85 


morning  I  generally  found  them  cool ;  about  two 
hours  after  the  fire  had  been  kindled  in  the  stove 
they  were  of  their  proper  temperature,  and  again 
in  the  evening  the  warmth  began  to  decline,  so 
as  in  very  severe  weather  to  render  a  second 
heating  necessary.  I  certainly  had  never,  like  the 
author  of  "  St.  Petersburg,"  the  good  fortune  to 
find  my  in-door  thermometer  vary  no  more  than 
"  half  a  degree "  for  seven  weeks,  except  for 
three  days ;  and  whether  this  circumstance  arose 
from  my  having  resided  at  Odessa,  only  a  third- 
rate  town  in  the  empire,  where  the  "  dvomicks^* 
may  be  supposed  to  be  less  skilful  than  those  of 
the  metropolis,  where  every  thing  is  in  perfection, 
I  shall  leave  for  others  to  decide,  but  the  reader 
may  depend  upon  the  fact  being  as  I  have  stated. 
The  danger,  which  I  have  before  observed  as  con- 
sequent upon  the  use  of  the  Russian  peetch,  if 
carelessly  managed,  is  of  the  most  serious  nature. 
When  the  wood  is  perfectly  burned  out,  and  not 
till  then,  the  stove  is  shut  down,  as  it  is  termed ; 
which  operation  consists  in  putting  an  iron  stopper 
or  door  upon  the  chimney  near  its  comme.ncement, 
and  then,  what  the  author  of  "  St.  Petersburg  " 
calls  the  upper  door  is  opened.  If  this  be  pre- 
maturely done,  and  the  error  not  perceived  in 
time,  the  persons  who  are  in  the  room  will  be 
most  probably  suffocated,  in  consequence  of  its 
being  filled  with  irrespirable  gas.  Accidents  of 
this  description  frequently  happen  in  Russia 
during  the  winter  months  ;  indeed  from  this 
cause  alone  numbers  of  the  lower  orders  lose 

G  3 


\.\ 


8(> 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  I'ETEIISIJURO. 


i 

tf 


their  lives  annually.     A  melancholy  instance  of 
the  kind  happened  while  I  was  at  Odessa,  in 
the  house  of  General  Leon  Naryschkine.     On 
a  very  cold  night,  during  the  winter  of  1828-9, 
one  of  the  servants  observed  to  his  companions 
that  he  would  "  heat  tlie  peetch  again,  and  make 
them  comfortable  for  the  night."    The  fire  was 
accordingly  re-lighted,  and  after  what  he  thought 
a  proper  time,  it  was  shut  down  as  usual ;  and  he 
and  several  other  servants  arranged  *  themselves 
near  the  stove  and  soon  fell  asleep.     After  some 
time,  one  of  them  awoke ;  and  fintling  himself 
labouring  under  very  peculiar  sensations,  and  a 
difficulty  of  breathing,  endeavoured  to  make  his 
way  to  the  door  of  the  apartment,  but  fell  before 
he  could  reach  it :  he,  however,  ultimately  did  so ; 
and  after  having  recovered  a  little,  guessing  the 
cause  of  his  own  illness,  and  being  aware  of  the 
danger  of  his  companions,   immediately  raised 
the  alarm  and  procured  assistance.     Those  that 
still  remained  in  the  room  were  speedily  taken 
from  it  insensible,  carried  into  the  open  air,  and 
every  measure  taken  to  promote  their  recovery ; 
but  two  were  found  to  be  completely  dead. 

The  account  given  in  "  St.  Petersburg,"  as  to 
the  process  of  heating  the  Russian  peetch,  con- 
tains some  inaccuracies,  which  I  am  not  at  all 
surprised  to  find ;  but  which,  however,  ought  to 
be  corrected.     It  is  said  that  the  dvomkk  "  de- 

•  The  Russian  servants  have  no  regular  beds  found  for 
them  :  they  have  a  shoob  or  sheep-skin  wrapper ;  and  this 
serves  them  for  clothing  in  the  day,  and  for  a  bed  by  night. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


87 


spatclies  the  business"  of  lighting  the  peetch 
"  in  a  few  minutes."     This  is  a  mistake.     The 
whole  of  the  wood  is  not  consumed  "  in  five  or 
six  minutes ;"   nor  "  in  ten  minutes  more  "  is 
"  the  combustion  complete,"  or  "  the  lower  door 
closed  entirely,   and   the    upper   one   partially 
or  entirely  opened."     If  the  upper  one  were 
opened  fifteen  minutes  after  the  commencement 
of  the  process,  its  infallible  consequence  would 
be  the  death  of  all  the  individuals  in  the  chamber 
into  which  the  upper  door  opened,  unless  they 
speedily  quitted  it.     I  never  observed,  certainly, 
the  precise  time  by  my  watch  which  the  wood 
requires  to  be  perfectly  consumed ;  but  it  cannot 
be  completed  in  less  than  an  hour,  and  1  believe 
it  will  take  generally  more  than  an  hour ;  and  the 
peetch  is  ordinarily  not  shut  down  for  at  least 
two,  and  sometimes  three,  hours  from  the  time 
of  the  fire  being  lighted.     The  quantity  of  wood 
consumed  each  time  depends  wholly  upon  the 
size  of  the  fire-chamber  and  the  degree  of  cold. 
This  mode  of  heating  houses  could  not  be  adopted 
in  our  country,  owing  to  the  expense  of  the  f iiel 
which  would  be  necessary;  nor  do  I  think  it 
would  be  very  easy  to  introduce  the  fashion,  as 
few  Englishmen  would  like  to  part  with  the 
comfortable  appearance  of  a  blazing  fire,  not- 
withstanding its  inconveniences. 

SYSTEM    OF    RUSSIAN    POSTING.  INFAMOUS 

CONDUCT    OF    THE    POSTMASTERS. 

I  have  often  heard,  while  at  St.  Petersburg, 
the  system  of  posting  adopted  in  Russia  lauded 

G  4 


> 


88 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBUUG. 


as  excellent,  and  superior  to  that  of  all  other 
countries  ;  and  I  confess  until  1  had  "  seen  with 
my  own  eyes,  and  heard  with  my  own  ears,'*  I 
was  inclined  to.  think  it  possibly  might  be  so. 
I  was  told  that  the  traveller  is  supplied  with  an 
order  for  post-horses  in  I  he  name  of  the  Emperor  ! 
that  the  rates  to  be  paid  are  fixed  by  law  — 
a  certain  number  of  kopecks  only  being  given 
at  each  station  for  each  horse  per  verst ;  that 
the  postillions  are  included  in  the  sum  paid  for 
the  horses ;  that  if  in  consequence  of  the  bad 
state  of  the  roads,  &c.  more  horses  are  required 
than  the  number  specified  in  the  padaroshna,  or 
government  order,  that  the  postmaster  is  com- 
pelled to  furnish  them  without  any  extra  charge ; 
that  the  distances  are  marked  all  over  the  empire 
by  verst-posts  at  the  side  of  the  road,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  no  disputes  can  arise  as  to  the 
distances  ;  that  a  marche  route  may  be  obtained 
at  the  post-ofKce,  by  which,  in  like  manner,  the 
number  of  versts  travelled  can  always  be  ascer- 
tained, and  of  course  the  sum  that  ought  to  be 
paid  ;  that  in  case  of  any  dispute  arising,   the 
tarifi*  on  the  subject  may  be  demanded  and  in- 
spected ;   and,  finally,  that  there  is  a  book  at 
every  station,  in  which  the  traveller  is  at  liberty 
to  enter  any  complaint  he  may  think  himself 
warranted  in  preferring,  and  which  will  be  at 
once  attended  to  by  the  proper  officers,  and  the 
guilty  parties  punished.     The  reader  shall  judge 
how  far  the  representation  agrees  with  the  reality. 
It  is  perfectly  true  that  all  the  regulations  just 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


^9 


enumerated  exist,  but  that  they  avail  nothing ; 
and  what  I  am  about  to  mention,  from  personal 
edperienee  on  this  subject,  also  exemplifies  the 
state  of  things  in  every  other  department  through- 
out Russia,  namely,  that  many  of  the  regulations 
are  good  in  the  abstract,  but  that  in  reality  they 
are  never  put  in  practice ;  they  might  as  well, 
therefore,  not  exist.  The  padaroshna  is  indeed 
an  order  for  post-horses  in  the  name  of  the  Em- 
peror  I  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  openly  laughed  at 
and  despised  •  :  horses  can  only  be  procured 
according  to  the  pleasure  of  the  postmaster.  It 
is  perfectly  true  that  the  rates  for  posting  are 
fixed  by  law  ;  yet  the  traveller  will  find  that  the 
postmasters  will  make  him  pay  what  they  choose, 
and  will  abuse  him  into  the  bargain.  Besides, 
as  the  rates  for  posting  vary  on  the  different 
roads,  from  three  to  five  or  eight  kopecks  per 
verst,  and  it  is  almost  impossible  for  the  traveller 
to  know  exactly  upon  what  road  he  is,  he  will 
find  many  difficulties  in  even  ascertaining  what 
he  ought  to  pay  for  his  horses :  as  to  what  he 
will  pay,  that  is  quite  another  thing.  But  "  he 
can  demand  the  tariff."  _  O  yes ;  but  it  will  be 
shown  him,  if  a  foreigner,  only  in  Russ !  he  will 
most  probably,  therefore,  not  profit  much  by  the 

*  That  is  to  say,  it  is  only  respected  according  to  the 
power  which  its  bearer  possesses  of  enforcing  obedience  to 
it;  in  itself  it  avails  nothing.  If  a  Russian  General  arrives 
with  a  padaroshna  it  will  secure  him  horses  at  once;  but  if  a 
civilian  and  a  foreigner  produce  one,  it  will  either  be  at- 
tended to  or  not  just  as  it  may  happen  to  suit  the  humour 
or  the  convenience  of  the  postmaster. 


90 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETEUSBUUG. 


I 

1^ 


inspection.     The  postillions  are  said  to  be  in- 
cliuletl  in  the  charge  for  the  horses  •  ;  neverthe- 
less it  will  be  found  that  they  must  be  paid  also. 
I  had  given  my  postillions,  upon  one  occasion,  GO 
kopecks  a  piece,  and  was  abused  because  I  would 
not  give  them  more !     As  to  the  extra  horses  not 
being  paid  for,  I  can  only  declare,  that  during 
iny  travels  alone  in  Russia  I  was  furnished  with 
a  padaroshna  for  four  horses ;  that  the  postmas- 
ters  })ut  to  my  calash,  against  my  wish,  often  six, 
and  in  one  instance  seven  horses ;  and  in  spite 
of  all  my  remonstrances  on  the  subject,  and  my 
threats  of  reporting  their  conduct  to  the  Gover- 
nor-general  and  the  Emperor,  they  only  laughed 
at  and  abused  me,  and  invariably  compelled  me 
to  pay  for  the  whole  of  them  ;  and  upon  one 
occasion,  when  I  had  refused  to  do  so,  they  un- 
harnessed  the  animals,  and  put  tliem  in  the  stable 
a<rain ;  nor  was  I  allowed  to  proceed  until  1  had 
complied  with  all  their  demands. 

There  are  verst-posts  placed  at  certain  dis- 
tances on  the  sides  of  the  roads  in  some  parts, 
but  they  are  generally  of  little  use  ;  the  distances 
marked  upon  them  being  seldom,  if  ever,  correct, 
as  I  have  noticed  again  and  again  ;  and  the  truth 
of  the  observation  has  been  confirmed  by  others, 
who  were  enabled  to  give  me  correct  information 
upon  the  subject:  in  some  instances  the  verst- 
posts  have  no  inscriptions  on  them.     It  is  said, 

*  "  Strictly  speaking,  there  is  no  regular  or  obligatory 
charn-e  for  the  drivers.  The  sum  paid  to  the  postmaster  is 
supposed  to  remunerate  his  servant  also."  —  St.  Petersburg, 
vol.  i.  p.  1'32. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


91 


also,  that  the  post-office  will  furnish  the  traveller, 
upon  demand,  with  a  marche  route.  True ;  but 
the  probability  is,  that  the  marche  route* ^  like  the 
inscriptions  on  the  verst-posts,  will  be  incorrectt, 
and  worse  than  useless.  But  even  if  correct,  the 
postmaster  will,  after  all,  calculate  the  distance 
as  he  pleases,  and  insist  upon  being  paid  ac- 
cordingly. Finally,  as  to  the  facility  of  making 
a  complaint,  with  respect  to  extortions  or  other 
circumstances,  the  thing  is  not  very  practicable 
generally.  Military  men  may  do  it ;  but  civi- 
Hans,  if  foreigners,  cannot  There  certainly  is  a 
book  at  each  station,  sealed,  and  nailed  to  the 
table  ;  but  when  I  attempted  to  register  a  com- 
plaint at  one  of  these  stations,  the  secretary  laid 
both  his  hands  upon  it,  and  positively  by  force 
prevented  me  from  making  any  entry  therein. t 

♦  When  I  left  Odessa,  I  had  a  marche  route  furnished  to 
me  by  the  post-office  there.  It  was  so  incorrect,  that  in 
one  part,  the  road  along  which  I  was  directed  to  go  had 
been  discontinued  by  the  post  for  many  years  in  consequence 
of  its  being  impassable,  and  post-horses  were  no  longer  kept 
upon  it!  —  (June,  1829.) 

f  "  On  application  at  the  general  post-office,  a  written 

marche  route  may  be  obtained  by  any  respectable  person." 

St.  Petersburg,  vol.  i.  p.  432. 

X  "  Notwithstanding  these  precautions,  attempts  are  some- 
times made  to  charge  foreigners  more  than  is  due,  and  to 
compel  them  to  take  a  greater  number  of  horses  than  is 
requisite.  In  all  such  casesy  the  traveller  may  insert  his  com- 
plaint  in  a  register,  kept  for  that  purpose,  at  each  post-house, 
which,  being  examined  from  time  to  time  by  the  inspector  of 
the  district,  ivill  inevitably/  lead  to  the  punishment  or  repri- 
mand of  the  transgressing  postmaster."—  St.  Petersburg, 
vol.  i.  p.  433.    ( Credat  Judccus.) 


92 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


The  nature  of  the  preceding  remarks  may, 
perhaps,  suggest  the  question,  "Of  what  use,  then 
is  a  padaroshna  ?  "  The  answer  is  simply  this, 
that  without  a  padaroshna  no  postmaster  dare 
furnish  a  traveller  with  horses,  and  it  is  known 
full  well,  that  if  he  transgress  in  this  respect,  he 
will  be  severely  punished;  because  the  strict 
observance  of  this  regulation  furnishes  very 
powerful  means  of  supporting  the  despotic  na- 
ture of  tlie  government.  With  a  padaroshna 
the  postmaster  is  at  liberty  to  furnish  horses, 
but  it  is  well  known  all  over  the  empire,  that  he 
will  do  so  where  he  can  only  at  his  own  price 
and  convenience.  The  only  remedy  which  un- 
der  existing  circumstances  can  be  employed 
with  Russian  postmasters  is,  the  "  argumentum 
bacuUnwn :''  if  this  be  well  applied,  the  horses 
will  at  once  start  out  of  the  stables ;  but  I  must 
here  observe,  that  it  can  only  be  resorted  to  with 
impunity  by  the  military.  I  have  myself  seen  a 
Russian  subaltern  officer  seize  the  postmaster,  a 
Jew,  by  the  collar,  shake  him  well,  lay  his  hand 
upon  his  sword,  and  threaten  to  run  him  through, 
and  after  this  have  observed  the  horses  imme- 
diately brought  out,  which  before  had  been  re- 
fused to  more  civil  means.  I  was  less  fortunate: 
not  having  the  power  of  doing  as  the  officer  had 
done,  I  was  obliged  to  wait  for  two  hours, 
although  there  were  twenty  horses  in  the  stable, 
and  ultimately  did  not  depart  until,  in  addition  to 
paying  for  all  the  horses  the  price  asked,  I  had 
submitted  to  the  extortion  of  a  rouble  extra,  for 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


93 


what  he  called  "  drink  money."  The  following 
passage  from  Dr.  Macmichael's  Journey  from 
Moscow  to  Constantinople  is  so  true,  and  so 
strongly  corroborates  the  observations  I  have 
just  made,  that  I  shall  beg  leave  to  quote  it :  — 
"  If  the  traveller,  for  instance,"  says  he,  "  has 
reached  the  wooden  hut  of  a  postmaster  (unless 
he  be  fortunately  provided  with  a  courier's  pass- 
port, when  he  is  always  quickly  expedited,)  he 
receives  in  reply  to  his  demand  for  horses  a 
promise  that  he  shall  have  them  cichass  (imme- 
diately): after  the  lapse  of  half  an  hour,  he  again 
makes  the  demand,  and  again  hears  the  same 
consolatory  answer  cichass.  On  these  occa- 
sions, unless  he  will  submit  to  be  kept  for  several 
hours  at  a  wretched  station,  the  doors  of  the 
stable,  perhaps,  full  of  horses,  will  not  fly  open 
until  he  has  greased  the  palm  of  the  inexorably 
venal  postmaster.  The  rate  of  posting  on  the 
great  roads  leading  to  St.  Petersburg  is  five 
kopecks"  (now  eight)  «  for  each  horse  per  verst, 
and  on  less  frequented  routes,  only  three  kopecks; 
but  the  bribe  must  sometimes  amount  to  the 
exorbitant  sum  of  a  blue-paper  note  of  the  value 
of  five  roubles."  Having  personally  experienced 
numerous  overcharges,  and  annoyances  on  the 
road,  some  only  of  which  I  have  here  parti- 
cularised,  I  feel  inclined  to  believe  the  state- 
ments of  other  travellers,  who  declare  that  they 
have  met  with  similar  treatment;  nor  do  I  think 
it  any  reason,  because  the  author  of  "  St.  Peters- 
burg,"   "  armed  with   a  strong  private  recom^ 


<H 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETEUSBURG 


mendation  to  all  the  postmasters  xcith  which  the 
director  of  the  post  at  St.  Petersburg,  M.  Boul- 
gakof,  had  furnished "  him,  met  with  none  of 
these  difficulties  on  the  great  high  road,  from 
the  Russian  metropohs  to  the  frontiers  of  Poland, 
that  therefore,  other  travellers  without  such  ''pri- 
vate recommendations^*  or  who  proceed  into  the 
interior,  like  Lyall  and  Clarke,  for  instance,  are 
not,  and  will  not  invariably  be  subjected  to  them ; 
nor  can  I  for  a  moment  allow,  that  a  person  who 
travelled  with  such  a  ''private  recommendation  " 
could,  if  he  were  so  inclined,  have  the  oppor- 
tunity of  forming  "a  proper  estimate  of  things  as 
they  are*,''  or  that  he  could  be  considered  quali- 
fied to  give  an  opinion  upon  the  subject,  possess- 
ing any  claims  to  impartiality.  When  I  tra- 
velled with  Count  Vorontzof,  I  admit  that,  for 
obvious  reasons,  we  met  with  no  delay,  or  any 
improper  conduct  from  the  postmasters,  or  the 
secretaries;  but  when  I  journeyed  alone,  I  was 
"Jleeced,  cheated,  abused,  and  laughed  at:*  The 
real  cause  of  these  flagrant  abuses  is  the  miser- 

»  The  author  of  "  St.  Petersburg,"  after  having  described 
the  regulations  respecting  posting  in  Russia,  and  given  the 
legal  charges  attending  it,  concludes  at  once,  that  "  posting 
is  therefore  nearly  one  half  cheaper  than  in  France,  and  two 
thirds  cheaper  than  in  Germany,  while  the  same  mode  (with 
four  horses)  of  travelling  in  England  is  six  times  dearer  than 
in  Russia."  (Vol.  i.  p.  433.)  —  That  it  ought  to  be,  according 
to  the  Imperial  ukases,  as  he  describes,  is  true,  but  that  it 
is  soy  I  deny  from  personal  experience ;  and  his  supposing 
it  to  be  so  is  a  proof  how  little  he  is  really  acquainted  with 
Russsia  as  it  is,  and  how  far  his  "  proper  estimate  of  things 
as  thci/  are  "  is  to  be  depended  upon. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


95 


able  policy  of  the  Russian  government,  which 
alone  should  be  blamed  for  them.  The  con- 
tracts for  post-horses,  I  have  been  informed,  are 
made  at  such  exceedingly  low  prices,  that  it  is 
impossible  for  the  persons  who  supply  them  to 
live  on  the  profits  legally  derived  therefrom ; 
they  are  in  consequence  obliged  to  impose  upon 
the  traveller,  whenever  they  can,  to  make  up  the 
deficiency ;  and  the  government  connives  at  their 
rascality,  because  it  well  knows,  that  if  the  ex- 
tortions of  the  postmasters  were  prevented,  the 
contracts  for  horses  must,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
be  made  at  higher  rates. 


THE  LATE  GEORGE  DAWE,  ESQ.,  R.A. 

In  a  work  like  the  present  it  would  be  unpar- 
donable to  omit  introducing  the  name  of  our 
countryman,  the  lamented  Mr.  Dawe,  who  has 
so  completely  identified  himself  with  the  histoiy 
of  the  fine  arts  in  Russia,  by  the  execution  of 
the  "  Gallery  of  Generals,"  and  other  works  of 
great  merit.     I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  first 
introduced  to  him  at  St.  Petersburg,  upon  my 
arrival  in  that  capital,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the 
year  1 827,  and  passing  several  pleasant  evenings 
at  his  apartments  near  the  winter  palace  ;  and  I 
experienced  many  very  friendly  and  kind  atten- 
tions from  him  during  my  stay  in  the  Russian 
metropolis.     I  then   remarked,  with  pain,   the 
frightful  inroads  which  unceasing  application  to 
the  labours  of  his  profession  had  made  in  his 
constitution,  and  frequently  urged  the  propriety 


96 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


97 


of  his  returning  to  England,  or  seeking  some 
more  genial  clime,  and  for  a  period  solely  de- 
voting his  attention  to  the  re-establislnnent  of  his 
health.  He  felt,  himself,  the  full  force  of  my 
observations,  and  the  necessity  of  doing  what  I 
recommended ;  but  urged  his  wish  of  stopping  a 
little  longer  in  order  to  complete  the  *^  Gallery 
of  Generals,"  and  a  few  portraits  in  hand,  which 
he  considered  himself  bound  to  finish  :  after  this 
he  intended  wholly  to  retire  from  Russia,  and  to 
return  to  his  native  country.  On  my  departure 
from  St.  Petersburg  in  the  beginning  of  the  year 
1828  for  Odessa,  and  taking  leave  of  Mr.  Da  we 
(only  a  few  minutes  before  I  commenced  the 
journey),  my  last  words  were  employed  in  per- 
suading him  as  to  the  absolute  necessity  of  his 
quitting  St.  Petersburg,  which  he  promised  to  do 
in  the  spring,  desiring  me,  at  the  same  time,  by 
way  of  facilitating  that  object,  to  be  the  bearer  of 
several  letters  to  Russian  generals,  their  widows, 
or  relations,  residing  in  the  southern  provinces  of 
the  empire,  wherein  he  requested  to  be  supplied 
with  family  portraits,  or  sketches,  from  which  he 
might  be  enabled  to  complete  the  "  Gallery  of 
Generals.*'  I  used  my  best  endeavours  for  attain- 
ing  the  object  in  view,  but  am  sorry  to  say,  could 
only  trace  one  or  two  of  the  parties  sought ; 
several  having  died,  and  many  having  left  their 
former  places  of  residence  without  its  being 
known  whither  they  had  removed.  My  own 
professional  duties  prevented  me  from  seeing 
Mr.  Dawe  afterwards ;  and  shortly  after  my  re- 


turn to  England  it  was  with  extreme  regret  that 
I  heard  he  was  then  in  a  state  which  precluded 
all  hope  of  recovery,  and  that  he  could  not  sur- 
vive  much  longer.    This  mournful  prediction  was 
fulfilled  a  few  weeks  subsequently :  Mr.  Dawe 
expired  at  Kentish-town  the  15th  of  October, 
1829.     He  was  a  gentleman  of  rather  retired 
habits,  of  modest  and  unaflfected  demeanour,  and 
of  independent  feelings,  which  his  residence  for 
a  period  of  eight  years  at  the  court  of  a  despotic 
sovereign  could  not  alter  or  subdue.    He  showed 
his  just  estimation  of  the  Russian  orders  of  knight- 
hood, which  are  so  liberally  bestowed  upon  almost 
every  clerk  in  the  empire,  not  only  by  abstaining 
from  soliciting  them,  but  by  letting  his  determi- 
nation,  with  respect  to  their  non-acceptance,  be 
so  well  known,  that  he  felt  secure  of  avoiding  the 
awkward  predicament  in  which  he  would  have 
been  placed  by  the  offer  of  them.    He  expressed 
to  me,  more  than  once,  his  unreserved  opinions 
upon  the  subject,  and  I  could  not  but  acknow- 
ledge  the  justice  of  his  observations,  and  admire 
the  feelings  which  dictated  them.     In  his  com- 
munications  with  the  Russians  he  was,  I  believe, 
cautious,  because  he  well  knew  and  duly  appre- 
ciated  their  general  character ;  and  this  circum- 
stance  has  led  sometimes,  on  their  part,  to  jealous 
feelings  and  illiberal  observations,  from  which 
many  of  the  higher  classes  were  by  no  means 
exempt.     Thus  I  have  heard  him  blamed  for  not 
expending  the  greater  part  of  his  earnings  upon 
outward  show ;  and  I  have  known  those  who  have 


H 


98 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


not  scrupled  to  insinuate  that  the  amount  which, 
according  to  general  beUef,  he  had  realised,  was 
much  greater  than  his  talents  merited.    Such  ob- 
servations  are  worthy  of  the  parties  who  uttered 
them.    A  great  deal  has  been  said  both  in  Russia 
and  in  this  country  about  the  large  sums  accu- 
mulated  by  Mr.  Dawe,  which  have  been  estimated 
as  amounting  to  a  million  of  roubles.     That  he 
earned,  and  well  earned,  a  good  fortune,  cannot 
be  doubted ;  but  I  very  much  question  whether 
that  fortune  was  actually  in  possession.    From 
what  he  informed  me  himself  I  fear  he  had  many 
debtors,  whose  honourable  payment  to  his  heirs 
may  be  problematical ;  and  I  am  also  afraid  that 
a  great  part  of  his  property  was  in  Russia  at  the 
time  of  his  death. 

CONDITION  OF  MEDICAL  OFFICERS  IN  THE  RUSSIAN 

ARMY,  ETC. 

The  medical  officers  of  the  army  are  not  held 

in  any  estimation  among  the  Russians,  which  is, 

in  a  great  degree,  occasioned  by  the  pay  being 

so  miserable,  that  respectable  persons  will  not 

enter  into  the  service,  since  it  is  impossible  to 

maintain  even  a  decent  appearance  with  the  pit- 

tance  allowed  by  the  government.     The  author 

of  "  St.  Petersburg,'*  it  seems,  thinks  differently ; 

for  he  observes,  "  a  great  deal  of  nonsense  has 

been  said,  though  in  a  respectable  medical  jour- 

nal,  on  the  subject  of  the  condition  of  the  junior 

medical  officers  of  the  Russian  army,  evidently 

from  the  want  of  knowing  better  and  not  from 


RESIDENCE    INT    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


99 


malice.  Among  other  remarks  the  editor  holds  up 
to  scorn  the  pay  offered  to  those  who  may  choose 
to  enter  the  Russian  land  or  naval  service  from 
this  or  any  other  country.  Now  it  appears  that 
the  pay  in  question  is  precisely  similar  to  that  of 
the  corresponding  rank  among  the  military  sur- 
geons or  aide-chirurgiens  of  the  French  army." 
Of  tlie  French  army,  1  confess,  I  know  nothing ; 
but  allowing  the  pay  of  Russian  medical  officers 
to  equal  that  of  the  French,  is  this  circumstance 
alone  any  proof  that  it  is  not  still  trifling  and 
contemptible  to  an  Englishman  ?  In  the  present 
instance  the  author  has  neglected  to  compare 
Russian  pay  with  English,  and  I  am  at  a  loss  to 
conceive  for  what  reason  ;  but  I  will  supply  the 
deficiency.  Those  students  who  enter  the  mili- 
tary service  from  the  Imperial  Medico-chirurgical 
Academy  of  St.  Petersburg, — at  which  estabhsh- 
ment,  according  to  his  own  statement,  their  break- 
fast consists  of  "  du  pain  (black  bread),  et  de 
Teau  de  la  Neva*," — upon  finishing  their  studies 
and  joining  the  army,  in  which  they  are  compelled 
to  serve  in  the  interior  for  a  period  of  six  years, 
are  paid  from  500  to  600  roubles  per  annuhi ; 
or  from  about  thirteen-pence  halfpenny  to  fifteen- 
pence  halfpenny  per  diem  :  in  other  words,  much 
about  the  same  as  a  common  soldier  receives  with 
us.  Now,  I  will  ask  any  English  medical  student, 
whether  he  would  not  regard  such  terms  with 
"  scorn,"  whether  his  prospects  of  professional 

*  Bread  and  water  with  us  is  the  diet  of  the  refractory, 
or  of  the  worst  criminals  in  our  prisons. 

H   ^ 


100 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


advancement  be  bright  or  othei^ise  ;  while  in 
the  medical  department  of  our  own  army  or  navy 
the  lowest  assistant-surgeon  or  hospital -mate  re- 
ceives six  shillings  per  day  ?  But  as  the  observ- 
ations of  the  author  of  **  St.  Petersburg"  arose 
out  of  an  official  invitation  of  the  Russian  Consul 
General  in  London,  let  us  refer  to  it,  and  see 
what  are  the  great  advantages  held  out  in  the 
way  of  salary,  &c.,  for  the  puq)ose  of  inducing 
medical  men  to  enter  the  Russian  service.  The 
following  are  extracts  from  the  document  in 
question :  — 

1.  "  Foreign  medical  men  are  invited  to  enter 
the  Russian  service  either  in  the  regiments  of 
the  army,  in  the  military  hospitals,  or  in  the 
navy. 

3.  "  The  candidates  will  be  divided  into  two 
classes,  according  to  the  degree  of  knowledge 
required.  Those  who  have  studied  every  branch 
of  medical  science  may  be  appointed  to  the  supe- 
rior functions  of  the  medical  departments  of  the 
land  or  naval  forces,  and  will  belong  to  the  first 
class.  They  are  to  be  examined  in  natural  his- 
tory, natural  philosophy,  chemistry,  pharmacy, 
botany,  anatomy,  physiology,  pathology,  and 
therapeutics ;  in  materia  medica,  surgery,  mid- 
wifery, medical  jurisprudence,  and  medical  po- 
lice. They  must^  besides^  know  Latin  !  In  the 
second  class  will  be  admitted  those  who,  not 
possessing  the  necessary  knowledge  of  practical 
surgery,  may  nevertheless  be  sufficiently  ac- 
quainted with   the   other  branches  of  medical 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


101 


I 


science,  and  may  also  be  promoted  to  superior 
ranks.  Their  examination  is  to  be  in  chemistry, 
botany,  anatomy,  physiology,  pharmacy,  materia 
medica,  pathology,  therapeutics,  the  theory  and 
practice  of  surgery,  as  well  as  medical  jurispru- 
dence, and  medical  police.  As  to  Latin^  no  more 
is  required  than  'what  is  necessary  to  understand 
the  pbarmacopccia^  and  to  write  prescriptions. 

4.  "  Foreigners  who  wish  to  be  received  into 
the  Russian  service  as  medical  men,  either  in  tlie 
land  or  naval  services^  are  to  proceed  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, after  having  obtained  passports,  which,  on 
their  application,  will  be  granted  to  them  by  the 
Russian  embassies  or  consulates  abroad. 

5.  "  On  their  arrival  at  St.  Petersburg  they 
are  to  apply  immediately  to  the  medical  depart- 
ment of  the  ministry  of  war,  or  to  the  physician- 
in-chief  of  the  navy,  who  will  take  the  necessary 
steps  for  the  examination  of  the  candidates,  and 
appoint  them  to  situations  suited  to  the  medical 
knowledge  they  may  be  found  to  possess. 

6.  "  The  examination  shall  be  made  by  the 
Medico-chirurgical  Academy,  &c. 

8.  "  Medical  men  of  the  first  class  will  be  en- 
titled to  an  annual  salary  of  1000  roubles ;  those 
of  the  second  class  to  800  roubles. 

9.  "  Every  medical  man  will  be  obliged  to  serve 
for  at  least  twelve  years.   He  who,  during  the  first 

six  years,  shall  have  performed  the  duties  of  his 
profession  in  an  irreproachable  manner,  will  re- 
ceive, for  the  remaining  six  years,  an  annual  in^ 
crease  of  salary  of  100  roubles ! 

H  3 


102 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


103 


11.  "  Those  who,  during  that  time  (12  years) 
shall  liave  distinguished  themselves  by  their  zeal, 
will  receive,  on  their  quitting  the  service,  a  grati- 
fication equal  to  ttvo  years*  salary,  or  a  pension 
equal  to  one  half  year's  salary;  which  pension, 
however,  can  only  be  enjoyed  07i  the  condition  of 
their  continuing  to  reside  in  Russia!* 

It  appears,  then,  from  this  notification,  that 
those  who  have  "  studied  every  branch  of  medical 
science,"  and  who,  besides,  "  know  Latin  !  "  are 
to  be  admitted  into  the  first  class,  and  may  be 
appointed  to  "  superior  functions  of  the  medical 
departments;'*  while  those  who  have  not  "studied 
every  branch  of  medical  science,"  and  who  only 
understand  "  dog  Latin,**  are  to  be  placed  in  the 
"  second  class ;  "  "  but  may,  likewise,  (if  it  so 
happen)  be  promoted  to  superior  ranks."    Now, 
the   "first  class"  must,  undoubtedly,  refer  to 
physicians,  inspectors  of  hospitals,  or  staff-sur- 
geons at  the  least,  for  if  it  do  not,  I  am  perfectly 
ignorant  as  to  what  it  means ;  while  the  latter,  I 
imagine,  is  intended  to  include  assistant  surgeons. 
The  former  are  to  receive  the  immense  sum  of 
42/.  iOs.  per  annum*,  while  the  pay  of  the  latter 
is  not  to  exceed  34/.f ;  and  for  this  pittance  me- 
dical men  of  character  and  considerable  acquire- 
ments are  expected  to  sacrifice  their  homes  and 
their  countiy,  and  to  become  slaves  to  the  auto- 

*  The  official  notice  states  43/.  15^.,  but  incorrectly. 

f  The  official  notice  says,  35/.  sterling.  The  liberal  pay 
of  medical  officers  in  our  army  and  navy  is  so  well  known, 
that  any  particular  statement  respecting  it  here  is  unneces- 
sary. 


I  'J 


cratic  government,  as  all  who  are  attached  to  the 
service  will  be  boimd  to  remain  in  it  for  twelve 
years;  and,  I  will  add,  just  so  much  longer  as 
the  government  may  choose.     Those  who  are 
inchned  to  enter  the  Russian  army  or  navy  will, 
therefore,  do  well  to  remember  that,  once  ad- 
mitted, they  cannot  resign  nor  leave  either  until 
they  are  permitted  to  do  so ;  which  permission 
they  will,  perhaps,  find  it  impossible  to  obtain, 
and  that  it  is  much  easier  to  enter  the  Imperial 
frontiers  than  to  quit  them.    Dr.  Arendt,  who  is 
said  to  be  the  most  skilful  surgeon  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, was  unable  to  obtain  permission  to  leave 
the  army  when  he  wished  it,  even  after  a  very 
long  period  of  active  service.     But  to  return  to 
the  official  consular  invitation :  — when  a  person 
has  served  for  six  years,  "  in  an  irreproachable 
manner,"  he  will  only  receive  an  addition  of 
4/.  5s.  per  annum  ;  and  after  twelve  years,  if  he 
shall  have  "  distinguished  himself  by  zeal**  what 
will  be  his  highest  reward  on  quitting  the  ser- 
vice ?  "  a  gratification  equal  to  two  years'  salary, 
or  a  pension  equal  to  one  half  year's  salary ! " 
But  this  liberal  pension  is  only  to  be  paid  so  long 
as  he  continues  to  reside  in  Russia ;  and,  there- 
fore, it  appears  that,  unless  he  will  consent  to 
renounce  his  native  country  for  ever,  after  having 
expended  the  best  years  of  his  life  in  the  Russian 
service,  he  will,  upon  quitting  it  in  his  old  age, 
receive  literally  nothing.    What  are  these  but 
paltry  and  pitiful  terms,  terms  worthy  "  of  scorn?" 
England  does  not  treat  her  foreign  pensioners  in 

H  4 


104. 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


this  way ;  but  the  English  is  not  an  autocratic 
government,  and  England  is  not  a  country  of 
slaves.  It  should  not  be  forgotten,  however,  that 
those  medical  men  who  have  "  distinguished** 
themselves  by  their  zeal,  may  obtain,  perhaps,  if 
they  are  lucky,  a  cross  of  St.  Vladimer  or  of  St. 
Anne,  or  possibly  both ;  while  a  clerk  in  one  of 
the  public  offices,  who  has,  very  likely,  sat  quietly 
at  his  desk  for  a  couple  of  years,  will  be  found 
enjoying  the  same  distinction.  The  distribution 
of  the  almost  innumerable  stais  and  crosses,  which 
annually  takes  place  in  Russia,  is  a  mode  of 
"raising  the  wind,"  which,  I  believe,  has  not 
been  noticed  as  such  by  authors  in  general.  The 
sums  produced  to  the  government  by  the  fees 
paid  on  receiving  such  orders  must  be  very  great, 
as  will  appear  evident  from  the  fact,  that  for  the 
lower  classes  of  the  most  common  orders  fifty 
roubles  are  demanded  from  each  individual  ho- 
noured with  them,  while  the  crosses  themselves 
are  not  intrinsically  worth  two-pence ;  and  that 
the  fees  for  the  higher  classes  of  the  more  re- 
spectable orders  are  proportionably  increased. 
In.  the  transactions  connected  with  the  notifica- 
tion  I  have  been  animadverting  upon,  as  in  every 
thing  else,  the  Russian  government  acted  with 
its  usual  and  characteristic  duplicity:  medical 
men  were  allured  to  St.  Petersburg  under  false 
promises,  and  when  they  got  there  were  told 
they  must  either  accept  different  terms  to  those 
contained  in  the  official  notification,  or  get  back 
to  England  as  they  could.    I  have  been  informed 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


105 


that  most,  if  not  all,  of  the  English  gentlemen 
who  proceeded  to  Russia  in  consequence  of  this 
notification,  were  unable  to  obtain  the  payment 
of  their  expenses  from  the  government  of  that 
country ;  but  th^e  following  letter,  which  I  copy 
from  a  medical  journal,  and  which  does  its  writer 
great  credit  for  his  kind  endeavours  to  open  the 
eyes  of  the  English  medical  public  with  respect  to 
Russia,  will  show  what  really  did  take  place :  — 

"  Sir, 

"  Many  English  surgeons  having  proceeded 
to  this  place  in  consequence  of  the  official  noti- 
fication which  has  been  addressed  to  foreign 
medical  men,  you  will  be  doing  a  great  piece  of 
justice  to  the  medical  men  in  England,  if  you 
will  have  the  goodness  to  communicate  to  them, 
through  the  medium  of  your  valuable  publication, 
the  contents  of  this  letter,  which  may  serve  to 
give  some  idea  of  the  treatment  they  will  expe- 
rience on  coming  to  Russia.  In  the  first  instance 
the  notification  states  they  may  either  join  the 
land  or  sea  service.  This  is  false ;  for  on  the 
application  of  Englishmen  who  have  just  arrived 
here,  they  have  been  told  "  the  army  is  fully 
supplied ;  **  and  they  may  either  embrace  the 
naval  service  or  return  to  whence  they  came.  In 
the  next  instance,  as  regards  the  examination  at 
the  Academy ;  there  are  at  present  not  less  than 
thirty  young  men,  principally  Germans,  with  the 
exception  of  three  Englishmen,  who  came  to  St. 
Petersburg  with  the  idea  of  entering  the  service. 


106 


RESIDENCE   IN    ST.  PETERSBUllG. 


according  to  the  notification,  who  have  been  in 
attendance  on  the  learned  professor  at  the  aca- 
demy  for  the  space  of  three  months^  and  with 
every  probability  of  remaining  three  months 
longer.  The  conduct  observed  towards  them  has 
bee7i  highly  infamous  ;  and  the  state  they  are  now 
in,  to  my  certain  knowledge,  is  truly  deplorable : 
in  fact,  nothing  remains  to  be  done  but  their  im- 
mediate application  to  the  different  consuls  or 
ambassadors  to  be  sent  home  as  distressed  sub- 
jects. Yesterday  a  body  of  them  presented  i)e- 
titions  to  Dr.  Cardanoff  (the  President  of  the 
Academy  in  the  absence  of  Sir  James  Wylie)  for 
the  return  of  their  different  certificates  ;  prefer- 
ring to  get  back  as  they  can,  to  remaining  in  a 
country  where  they  have  been  treated  more  like 
dogs  than  Christians,  By  making  this  publicly 
known,  you  will  be  doing  much  service  to  those 
gentlemen  who  have  any  idea  of  proceeding  here. 

"  I  remain, 

"  Mr.  Editor, 
„    „       ,  "  Your  obedient  servant, 

«*  St.  Petersburg, 

«  July  8th,  1828.  "  HenRY  WiLLIAMS,  M.D." 

The  authenticity  of  the  preceding  letter  I 
cannot  pretend  to  vouch  for,  but  have  no  doubt 
that  all  who  are  acquainted  with  Russia  will  be 
disposed  to  consider  it  as  worthy  of  credit.  It 
affords  an  excellent  specimen  of  the  system  pur- 
sued by  the  government  of  that  country ;  and  it 
is,  therefore,  the  less  extraordinary  that,  follow- 
ing so  laudable  an  example,  every  genuine  Mus- 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


107 


covite  adopts  the  same  faithlessness  of  conduct 
in  his  private  transactions.  Some  of  the  Russian 
seigneurs  •  are  very  fond  of  having  English  me- 
dical attendants ;  and  they  make  such  persons, 
while  in  England,  the  most  flattering  offers  for 
the  purpose  of  inducing  them  to  leave  their  own 
country,  and  to  accompany  their  employers  to 
the  northern  "  land  of  promise ;  *'  they  execute 
written  agreements  for  a  term  of  years^  and  en- 
gage to  do  whatever  may  render  the  situation 
comfortable ;  to  pay  every  expense  of  going  and 
returning;  to  convey  books,  instruments,  and 
baggage  of  every  kind  to  and  from  Russia :  in 
short,  they  act  the  part  of  kindness  and  liberality 
with  such  admirable  skill,  that  those  who  are  ig- 
norant of  their  character  will  be  so  far  duped  as  to 
accept  their  invitations.  Upon  their  arrival  in 
Russia  the  mask  will  be  gradually  laid  aside ;  the 
persons  thus  engaged  will  find  themselves  called 
upon  to  perform  what  they  never  agreed  to  do ; 
and,  moreover,  will  soon  be  treated  so,  that  if 
they  have  the  feelings  of  Englishmen  and  gentle- 
men they  will  be  unable  to  submit,  will  remon- 
strate, and  finally  demand  a  passport.  Then,  all 
dissimulation  will  be  at  an  end ;  —  they  will  then 
be  given,  indirectly,  to  understand  that  they  are 
in  their  employer's  power;  that  the  agreement 
for  years  was  only  an  agreement  during  pleasure  ; 
and  they  will,  probably,  at  once  be  required  to 

•  In  the  family  of  a  celebrated  Russian  nobleman,  during 
a  period  of  about  seven  years^  there  have  been  four  English 
physicians,  who  have  all  left ! 


-/ 


108 


UESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


accede  to  this  version  of  the  agreement,  and  to 
accept  the  salary  already  due  as  a  full  liquidation 
of  all  claims.  Should  acquiescence  in  such  pre- 
posterous  terms  be  refused,  and  the  injured  party 
be  firm,  then  he  may  return,  perhaps  not  without 
some  danger  on  the  road.  In  spite  of  the  en- 
comiums and  the  assurances  of  gratitude,  per- 
sonally and  in  writing,  which  he  has  received  for 
his  services,  (together  witli  the  high  satisfaction 
expressed  to  many  others,  even  of  his  own  coun- 
trymen, respecting  his  conduct  and  his  profes- 
sional success,)  he  will  now  find  even  his  medical 
ability  called  in  question,  and  himself  vilified  and 
abused.  All  this  he  will  most  probably  expe- 
rience ;  in  addition  to  which  his  arrears  of  salary 
will  be  withheld,  and  his  property  detained  for 
several  months,  when  he  will  be  informed  that, 
possibly,  the  latter  is  transferred  to  the  English 
consul,  and  that  it  may  either  be  sold  in  Russia 
for  next  to  nothing,  or  be  sent  home,  upon  his 
application  to  the  consul,  at  his  own  expense  ! 

The  advice  which  I  would  offer  my  profes- 
sional  brethren  is,  never  to  accept  any  appoint- 
ment from  a  Russian  out  of  England ;  never  to 
confide  in  his  great  promises,  or  even  to  trust  to 
his  written  agreement,  for  in  Russia  this  will 
avail  them  nothing.*     But  if  they  should  be  per- 

•  The  following  anecdotes,  related  by  Dr.  Lyall,  are  so 
characteristic  J  and  so  strongly  illustrate  what  I  have  just 
asserted  on  personal  experience,  that  I  shall  beg  leave  to 
introduce  them  here  :  — 

•*  A  countryman  of  mine  was  about  to  enter  the  service 
of  Admiral ,  a  liberal-minded  man,  distinguished 


/ 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


109 


suaded  to  go,  then  let  all  the  expenses  of  the 
journey,  from  and  to  England,  be  settled  before 


for  the  amenity  of  his  manners  and  his  generosity,  and  who 
has  different  estates  in  the  south  of  the  Russian  empire. 
The  terms  of  the  agreement  having  been  settled,  the  Scotch- 
man asked  this  gentleman  if  there  should  not  be  a  contract. 
The  Admiral  replied  in  these  words,  which,  remarkable  as 
they  may  appear,  alas,  are  but  too  true  :  '  As  far  as  respects 
me,  I  have  no  desire  to  have  any  contract  with  you ;  because, 
should  you  at  any  time  wish  to  leave  me,  the  sooner  you 
did  so  the  better,  as  I  should  not  like  to  retain  any  person 
in  my  service  by  restraint ;  and  should  I  ivisk  to  get  rid  of 
1/ou,  Ishalljlnd  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  my  purpose  :  besides, 
you  have  been  long  enough  in  Russia  to  know,  that  in  case 
any  dispute  arise  between  us,  a  contract  would  be  of  no 
real  use  to  me,  and  to  you  of  no  advantage ;  it  might  be 
the  cause  of  your  spending  money  in  the  courts  of  justice, 
but  not  of  obtaining  a  favourable  decision'.  " 

"  Dr.  Hunt,  a  worthy  and  venerable  man,  nearly  eighty 
years  of  age,  had  been  physician  to  the  celebrated  Count 
Razumofsky,  with  whom  he  resided  many  years.     After  the 
old  Count's  death,  Dr.  Hunt  entered  the  service  of  one  of 
his  sons,  with  the  same  conditions  he  had  from  the  Hetman, 
and  lived  in  terms  of  great  harmony  and  friendship  with  his 
Excellency  until  his  death  in  1818  (when  he  had  been  in 
the  family  twenty-five  years).*'—"  The  Count  left  extensive 
property  both  to  his  wife  and  his  children.     But  a  dispute 
arose  about  the  legality  of  the  marriage,  and  a  law  process 
was  the  consequence.    In  the  mean  time,  the  Countess  pre- 
tended that,  being  uncertain  as  to  the  result  of  the  said 
process,  she  could  no  longer  retain  Dr.  Hunt  in  her  service. 
Her  Ladyship  did  not  use  the  language  of  consolation  or  of 
hope ;  and  even  when  she  did  obtain  a  favourable  decision, 
she  made  no  offer  to  do  the  smallest  office  of  kindness  for 
him.     Dr.  Hunt  has  now  paid  the  debt  of  nature ;  and  I  un- 
derstand that  the  Countess  has  been  profuse  of  her  worldly 
goods  to  a  young  medical  man,  who  treated  her  with  animal 
magnetism." 


110 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


starting,  and  the  salary  be  always  paid  one  year 
in  advance ;  for  without  this  precaution  they  will 
never  be  safe,  and  even  then  there  are  risks.    A 
learned  gentleman,  who  was  recently  engaged  to 
go  to  Russia,  understanding  the  national  cha- 
racter perfectly,  took  care  to  be  paid  in  full  before 
he  left  his  own  house,  and  he  did  right, — leaving 
nothing  to  honour.  Others  have  acted  differently, 
and  have   had  cause  to  regret  their  misplaced 
confidence.     "  Now,  indeed,  a  Muscovite  is  no 
more  a  being  divested  of  all  reason  and  humanity; 
but,  in  order  to  complete  the  man,  one  must,  as 
we  are  informed,  strip  him  of  those  remains  of 
brutality  which  are  still  inherent  in  him,  his  dis- 
honest principles^  his  perfidiousnesSy  which  beasts 
themselves  would  blush  to  be  guilty  of.     Perry 
sets  a  Muscovite  on  the  same  footing  with  a  Cal- 
vinistic  monk ;  for  he  applies  to  the  former  what 
is  become  a  proverb  with  respect  to  the  latter. 
«  Would  you  know  whether  a  Muscovite  is  an 
honest  fellow  or  not,  see  whether  he  has  any  hair 
in  the  palm  of  his  hand.    He  has  no  notion,*  con- 
tinues he,  *  either  of  honour  or  honesty.  He  looks 
upon  the  qualification  of  a  rogue  as  something 
very  commendable  ;  and  boldly  asserts  of  such  a 
man,  that  he  understands  the  world,  and  cannot 
well  fail  of  meeting  with  preferment.*     I  could 
maintain,  that  in  drawing  this  character  he  has 
not  exceeded  the  bounds  of  truth  or  justice,  were 
not  I  afraid  of  being  charged  with  prejudice  and 
partiality ;  but  be  that  as  it  will,  he  is  a  happy 
many  in  my  opinion,  who  never  had  the  experience 


/ 


i 


RESIDENCE    IN    ST.  PETERSBURG. 


Ill 


of  a  Russian* s  perfidiousnesSy  but  by  the  inform- 
ation of  others.**  * 

MADAME 1   ^ND    THE    AUTHOR    OF 


«*  ST.  PETERSBURG. 


99 


I  have  given  my  opinion  freely  respecting 
"St.  Petersburg,"  and  have  not  hesitated  to  avow, 
that  I  consider  many  of  the  statements  in  it 
too  favourable,  and  that  even  when  the  facts 
stated  are  undeniable,  they  are  put  so  as  to  con- 
vey a  false  impression.  I  am  happy  to  be  able 
to  add,  that  this  opinion  is  entertained  even  by 
Russians,  a  circumstance  which  speaks  volumes 
on  the  subject.  A  lady  of  high  rank,  a  well- 
informed  and  excellent  woman,  after  havine  read 
"  St.  Petersburg,**  observed  to  me,  that  it  cer- 
tainly gave  by  far  too  favourable  a  picture  of 
Russia,  and  one  which  is  not  borne  out  by  facts, — 
that  it  is  over-done.  "  So  much,**  she  observed, 
**  is  said  in  praise  of  the  Imperial  family,  that 
one  is  inclined  to  doubt  the  author's  sincerity :  if 
less  had  been  said,  it  would  have  had  more  effect'* 

I  must  also  state,  that  one  or  two  other  Rus- 
sians have  allowed,  upon  the  question  being  put 
to  them,  that  "  St.  Petersburg**  does  not  give  a 
fair  account  of  Russia. 

*  Vide  Picart*8  Religious  Ceremonies,  vol.  v.  p.  299. 
Although  the  passage  here  quoted  was  written  more  than 
a  hundred  years  ago,  it  applies  most  correctly  even  at  the 
present  day. 

t  I  beg  to  assure  the  reader  that  this  is  no  fictitious  per- 
son, and  that  I  conceal  her  name  solely  for  the  purpose  of 
skreening  her  from  the  persecution  which  she  would  inevit- 
ably suffer  in  Russia  if  I  were  to  mention  it. 


112 


JOURNEY    FROM    ST.  PETERSBURG,    ETC.       113 


CHAP.  III. 


JOURNEY    FROM    ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 

LEAVE    ST.    PETERSBURG.  —  STOPPED    AT     THE    BARRIER.—* 

MARBLE  VERST  POSTS. SOPHIA. WONDERFUL  RELICS.— 

GRAND  MASTERSHIP  OF  THE  KNIGHTS  OF  MALTA. GAT- 
CHINA.  —  BAD    ROADS. — ACCIDENT. — INTENSE    COLD. 

CURIOUS  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  SLEDGE  ROADS.  —  GOVERN- 
MENT OF  PSKOF.  —  ILLNESS  OF  THE  COUNTESS  VORONTZOF. 

—  GOVERNMENT  OF  VITEBSK.  —  GOVERNMENT  OF  MOGILEF. 
ORCHA. MISERABLE  AND  DISGUSTING  ACCOMMODATIONS. 

RUSSIAN    FILTH. ARRIVAL    AT    MOGILEF.  GUARD 

TURNED    OUT.  —  FIELD-MARSHAL     SACKEN.  —  AWKWARD 
PREDICAMENT. — GOVERNMENT  OF  TCHERNIGOF. —  LITTLE 

RUSSIA. "  THE  STEPPES." TUMULI SNOW  STORM. 

WRETCHED  ACCOMMODATIONS.  —  CRITIQUE  ON  THE  AU- 
THOR OF  "  ST.  PETERSBURG." —  GOVERNMENT  OF  KIEF. 

KIEF. CATACOMBS.  —  PRETENDED  MUMMIES. ODORI- 
FEROUS   HEADS.  —  BIELA  TSERKOP. COUNTESS  BRANIT- 

SKII.  ANECDOTES. WOLF    HUNT.  ALEXANDRIA.— 

INTENDED  ASSASSINATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR  ALEXANDER. 

PROPOSED    ABDICATION     OF     ALEXANDER.— DEATH    OF 

ALEXANDER.  SIR    JAMES     WYLIE. A    CLEAN     BED. 

GOVERNMENT  OF  CHERSON. — NEW  RUSSIA. GENERAL  LEON 

NARISCHKINE. — PADAROSHNA    LOST. TERRIBLE  ROADS. 

SLEDGES  DISCONTINUED.  —  ACCIDENT.  —  MORE  INCONVE- 
NIENCES   AND    DISCOMFORTS.  —  WRITERS    ON    RUSSIA.  — 

ARRIVAL   AT  NIKOLAIEF. ADMIRAL  GREIG.  —  TOWN  OF 

NIKOLAIEF.  —  LEAVE  NIKOLAIEF.  —  LUDICROUS  CAVAL- 
CADE.  DANGEROUS  STATE  OF  THE  BOUG. — ACCIDENT.— 

POSTILION  DROWNED.  —  PASSAGE  OF  THE  BOUG.  —  SAS- 
SITSKAYA. —  PLAGUE  MONUMENT.  —  POSTILION  AND  MAILS 
LOST.  —  ARRIVAL    AT    ODESSA. 


February  10th,  1828.  —  This  day  having  been 
appointed  for  our  departure  from  St.  Petersburg, 
at  an  early  hour  every  thing  requisite  was  in 
readiness.  The  cook,  with  the  cuHnary  utensils 
and  other  necessaries  appertaining  to  his  office, 
as  well  as  the  courier,  with  the  padaroshna  or 
government-order  for  twenty-three  post  horses, 
had  set  off  on  the  day  preceding  ;  the  latter  to 
have  in  readiness  the  means  of  travelling,  the 
former  to  prepare  refreshment  after  it.  During 
the  morning  the  Count  and  Countess  Vorontzof 
were  engaged  in  receiving  parting  visits  from 
their  numerous  friends  and  acquaintances,  and 
at  one  o'clock  three  carriages  drove  up  to  the 
door :  two  female  servants  entered  the  first,  the 

Count  and  Countess  the  next,  Mr.  S (one 

of  the  Count's  secretaries)  and  myself  following 
in  the  third.  Upon  arriving  at  the  barrier  of  St. 
Petersburg,  it  was,  according  to  custom,  lowered, 
the  carriages  stopped,  and  the  usual  questions, 
namely,  who  we  were,  and  where  going  to, 
asked ;  which  being  satisfactorily  answered,  our 
journey  was  resumed.  We  were  now  out  of  the 
town :  the  road  is  very  broad,  and  divided  into 
three  parts  by  rows  of  trees,  of  which  the  centre 
is  the  widest,  those  on  each  side  bemg  much 
narrower.  This  triple  division  exists  for  several 
versts,  after  which  the  road  presents  the  more 
usual  appearance  of  a  single  avenue :  itis  through- 
out very  good,  and  is  a  creditable  specimen  of 

I 


I 


f 


} 


114 


JOURNEY    FROM 


Macadamization.     The  face  of  the  country  is 
perfectly  flat  till    about  the   fourteenth  verst, 
where  there  is  a  gentle  hill  and  village.     To-day 
the  carnival  began,  which  is  kept  all  over  the 
Russian  dominions  :  it  lasts  a  week,  during  the 
whole  of  which  time  it  is  holiday.     Here  we 
observed  a  group  of  village  children  amusing 
themselves  with  sliding  down  the  hill,  sitting 
astride  upon  a  kind  of  rude  sledges ;  sometimes 
alone,  sometimes  two  or  three  together.     Soon 
after  the   eighteenth  verst   we  passed   a  very 
pleasing  village,  evidently  recently  built;  the 
gable  ends  of  the  houses,  which  face  the  road, 
being  prettily  carved,  and  the  wood  not  yet  dis- 
coloured.     The  verst-posts  I  had  observed  thus 
far  were  of  red  marble,  an  extravagance  which 
appeared  to  me  as  misplaced  as  it  is  useless. 
Upon  enquiry  I  found  that  they  were  erected  in 
obedience  to  a  whim  of  the  Emperor  Paul,  and 
that  they  are  of  the  same  costly  material  as  far 
as  the  next  station,  Sophia.     Just  before  the 
twentieth  verst  another  village  was  passed,  which 
aflibrded  visible  proofs  that  it  had  been  erected 
Ions:  since.     Here,  on  the  left,  the  celebrated 
gardens  of  Sophia  commence,  which,  notwith- 
standing the  unfavourable  season  of  the  year 
and  the  rapid  rate  at  which  we  passed  them, 
appeared  to  merit  the  renown  they  have  acquired. 
At  the  twenty-second  verst  we  reached  Sophia, 
where  the  grand  entrance  to  these  gardens  is 
situated,  and  shortly  after  arrived  at  the  post- 
house.     Sophia  is  a  town  in  the  government  of 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


115 


St.  Petersburg,  appertaining  to  the  town  and 
palace  of  Tsarsko-Celo.  The  Empress  Catha- 
rine tlie  Second  founded  it  in  1785,  and  made  it 
the  chief  place  of  the  district.  Several  of  the 
houses  are  built  of  brick,  and  the  church  in  par- 
ticular is  worthy  of  notice,  having  been  erected 
by  order  of  the  Empress,  as  an  imitation  in  mi- 
niature of  St.  Sophia  at  Constantinople.  When 
a  seigneur  travels  in  Russia,  particularly  if  he  be 
a  military  officer  of  high  rank,  he  experiences  no 
delays  at  the  stations  from  the  roguery  of  the 
postmasters  and  their  agents  :  no  flimsy  pre- 
tences about  want  of  horses,  &c.  are  ever  made 
to  him ;  we  were,  therefore,  not  long  detained  ; 
for,  on  the  contrary,  tlie  animals  were  imme- 
diately put  to,  and  after  a  delay  of  only  a  few 
miiuites,  we  recommenced  our  journey  at  a 
gallop,  which  was  kept  up  without  intermission 
for  three  versts,  when  we  passed  a  village  con- 
sisting of  not  more  than  a  dozen  small  miserable 
houses.  Having  proceeded  a  few  versts  further, 
we  entered  a  thick  forest,  which  continued  to 
bound  the  road  on  both  sides,  with  little  inter- 
ruption, until  the  end  of  tlie  stage.  At  the 
eleventh  verst  there  is  a  slight  elevation  of  the 
road,  with  a  small  village;  and  at  the  twelfth 
another  village.  When  passing  the  fourteenth, 
we  observed  a  pretty  chateau  on  our  right ;  and 
just  beyond  the  sixteenth,  according  to  the  verst- 
posts,  (which,  by  the  way,  have  not  the  distances 
correctly  marked  on  them,)  ^^e  reached  the  Gat- 
china  barrier,  consisting  of  a  neat  stone  arch. 

I  Q 


i- 


imit^mMi 


116 


JOURNEY    FROM 


At  the  eighteenth  verst,  a  chateau,  commenced 
by  the  Emperor  Paul,  though  never  finished,  and 
now  in  a  ruinous  state,  attracted  our  notice,  and 
we  soon  afterwards  arrived  at  the  town  of  Gat- 
china.     This  is  a  small  town  in  the  government  of 
St.  Petersburg :  what  is  now  the  palace  was  for- 
merly only  a  country  house,  built  by  Prince  Gre- 
gory Orloflf*;  which,  upon  his  decease,  was  pur- 
chased by  the  Empress  Catharine,  who  presented 
it,  in  1784,  to  her  son  the  Grand  Duke  Paul, 
together  with  all  the  district  and  the  peasants 
belonging  to  it.     The  palace  is  ample  and  mag- 
nificent ;  the  gardens  large  and  well  laid  out : 
indeed  Gatchina  is  reckoned  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  Imperial  residences  in  Russia.     The 
place  was  raised  into  a  town  by  the  Emperor 
Paul  in  1797.     It  is  reputed  to  contain,  with  its 
dependencies,  3(XX)  inhabitants.    In  the  Russian 
church  here  are  said  to  be  preserved  the  following 
curiosities :  —  a  piece  of  the  real  cross  *  ;  the  right 
hand  of  John  the  Baptist ;  and  the  miraculous 
image  of  Our  Lady  of  Filerma,  brought  from 
Rhodes  to  Malta  in  15^23.     All  these  valuable 
relics  were  carried  away,  after  the  latter  island 
had  been  taken  on  the  13th  of  June,  1798,  by 
Baron  Hompech,  who  was  at  that  time  Grand 

*  While  I  was  in  Russia,  a  lady  made  presents  to  her 
nieces  and  nephews  of  some  golden  crosses,  which  I  was 
gravely  assured  contained  within  them  pieces  of  the  real 
cross!  I  confess  I  did  not  expect  in  this  enlightened  age  to 
have  met  with  such  credulity  among  the  higher  orders  even 
in  Muscovy. 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


117 


Master  of  the  Knights  of  Malta.     They  were 
offered  to  the  Emperor  Paul,  who  had  himself 
assumed  the  title  of  Grand  Master,  by  Count 
Colovrat  and  other  deputies  of  the  order,  during 
a  public  audience  at  Peterhof,  the  3d  of  August, 
1799;  and  deposited,  on  the  12th  of  October  in 
the  same  year,  by  his  Imperial  Majesty's  direc- 
tions, in  the  church  of  Gatchina,  upon  the  mar- 
riage of  the  Grand  Duchess  Helen  Paulovna 
with    the    hereditary   Prince   of   Mecklenburg 
Schwerin.     The  right  of  the  Emperor  Paul  to 
the  above  dignity  has  been,  I  believe,  generally 
disputed.     Bishop  James,  in  his  "  Tour,"  makes 
the   following   observations   upon    the   subject, 
which   may,  with  propriety,   be   introduced  in 
this  place  :  —  "  But  the  validity  of  the  right  by 
which  the  honour  '*  (of  the  Maltese  cross)  "  can 
be  conferred  by  the  Emperor  is  liable  to  some 
question  ;  the  claimants  to  the  Grand  Mastership 
of  the  order  of  St.  John  were  more  than  one,  and 
the  Emperor  Paul's  title  none  of  the  strongest 
He  was  called  to  the  vacant  dignity  (in  pursuance 
of  his  own  recommendation)   by  an   irregular 
chapter,  composed  of  a  few  accidental  chevaliers, 
at  Petersburg,  at  the  time  when  the  French,  find- 
ing themselves  unable  to  keep  possession  of  Malta, 
made  a  cession  of  it  to  Russia  just  as  it  was  about 
to  yield  to  the  British  arms.     This  mock  election 
was  followed  by  the  ridiculous  farce  of  despatch- 
ing Count  Litta  a  few  miles  out  of  the  town, 
with  directions  to  return  in  quality  of  an  ambas- 
sador  from  the  Knights  of  Malta,  declaring  him-. 

I  3 


118 


JOURNEY    FROM 


ST. PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


119 


self  charged  with  full  power  to  invest  his  Imperial 
Majesty  with  the  insignia  of  the  title  he  so  much 
coveted.  The  self-appointed  envoy  was  received 
in  due  form  at  the  palace;  and  the  Emperor  being 
completely  satisfied  with  his  credentials,  imme- 
diately entered  upon  the  functions  of  his  new 
office,  distributing  crosses  and  grand  crosses, 
and  penniless  commanderies  without  reserve.**  * 
Gatchina  belonged  to  the  late  Empress-mother : 
it  was  her  favourite  residence,  and  contains  se- 
veral charitable  institutions  wliicli  were  sup- 
l)orted  and  superintended  by  Her  Majesty. 

We  took  tea  at  this  place,  and  having  changed 
horses  pursued  our  route  :  innnediately  on  leaving 
the  town  wc  observed  a  battery  constructed  by 
Paul  for  his  amusement ;  it  has  cannon  mounted, 
and  in  the  centre  is  placed  a  lofty  pillar.  The 
Imperial  stables  are  also  built  to  resemble  a 
battery ;  another  whim  of  that  eccentric  and  un- 
fortunate sovereign.  The  road  thus  far  had 
been  remarkably  good  considering  the  advanced 
period  of  the  winter  at  which  we  commenced 
our  journey  ;  but  we  had  now  the  mortification 
to  find,  upon  emerging  from  the  forest,  which 
bounds  it  on  each  side  after  leaving  Gatchina, 
that  it  was  of  the  directly  opposite  character. 
Instead  of  the  well-beaten  smooth  fields  of  ice 
over  which  we  had  previously  glided,  we  now 
frequently  met  with  parts  of  the  road  consisting 
entirely  of  a  succession  of  ridges  and  ditches 
varying  in  dimensions  from  two  to  four  feet: 

*    \k\v  Jonub'b  *'  Journal  of  a  Tour,"  &c.  vol.  ii. 


these  had  been  caused  by  a  storm  at  the  time 
that  the  snow  originally  fell,  which  in  such  cases 
drifls  it  into  the  inequalities  just  noticed.     As 
the    sledge-mounted    carriages    were   impelled 
over  these  annoying  hills  and  dales  the  pitching 
was  dreadful,    so  much  so,  that  we  often  re- 
ceived severe  contusions  in  consequence  *  ;  and 
even  when  the  deviations  from  a  plane  surface 
are  not  so  formidable  with  respect  to  size,  they 
are  still  productive  of  many  sensations  by  no 
means  less  distressing ;  for  it  is  not  unusual  for 
those  who   are  unaccustomed  to  this  mode  of 
travelling  to  be  affected  with   sickness  similar 
to  that  experienced  on  ship-board;  the  motion  of 
a  carriage  with  a  sledge  bottom  bearing  con- 
siderable resemblance  to  that  of  a  small  vessel 
in  a  short  sea.     I  had  almost  from  the  com- 
mencement of  this  stage    expected  that  some 
accident   would    happen    from    the    dangerous 
nature  of  the  roads,  and  we  had  not  proceeded 
more  than  five  versts  from  Gatchina  before  my 
anticipations  were  verified.    After  having  passed 
over  several  of  the  before-mentioned  inequalities, 
on  coming  to  one  much  larger  than  usual  the 
calash  in  which  I  was  gave  a  tremendous  pitch ; 
a  loud  crash  occurred  at  the  same  instant,  and 

*  "  We  travelled  all  night ;  but,  lest  the  motion  of  a 
sledge  over  the  frozen  surface  should  be  conceived  to  be 
agreeable  and  calculated  to  promote  sleep,  it  may  be  ob- 
served, that  from  the  constant  inequalities  in  the  road  and 
the  occasional  deficiencies  of  snow,  as  well  as  sometimes 
from  drifts  and  ridges  over  which  we  were  to  be  dragged, 
the  jolting  was  tremendous."— Macmichael's  Journey,  p.  34-. 

I  4 


120 


JOURNEY    FROM 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


121 


the  driver  immediately  pulled  up  :  the  pole  had 
broken  off  near  the  middle,  and,  as  we  afterwards 
ascertained,   both   the  foresprings  and  one   of 

those  behind  had  also  snapped.     Mr.  S and 

I  immediately  got  down  to  investigate  the  nature 
of  the  injury  which  had  occurred,  when  we  ob- 
served that  the  carriages  in  advance  of  us  were 
also  stationary,  and  soon  after  found  that  the 
pole  of  one  of  them  was  in  the  same  condition 
as  our  own,  though  luckily  that  in  which  their 
Excellencieswere  seated  had  received  no  damage, 
and  accordingly  they  pursued  their  route  to  the 
next  station,  where  it  had  been  determined  the 
whole  party  were  to  stop  during  the  night.  A 
consultation  was  now  held  as  to  how  the  mis- 
chief should  be  repaired;  and  a  peasant  on  a 
hay-sledge  happening  to  pass,  who  was  going  to 

Gatchina,  Mr.  S immediately  got  upon  it, 

in  the  hope  of  there  being  able  to  find  some 
workman  who  could  so  far  supply  the  place  of 
the  broken  poles  as  to  enable  us  to  reach  the 
next  station ;  for  any  attempt  to  remedy  the 
damaged  springs  was  quite  out  of  the  question. 
It  being  Sunday  afternoon  those  who  remained 
upon  the  spot  had  some  doubts  as  to  his 
success,  and  we  therefore  made  up  our  minds  to 
pass  the  night  where  the  accident  had  occurred  : 
we  w  ere,  however,  agreeably  mistaken ;  for  in  about 

two  hours  and  a  half  Mr.  S returned,  having 

luckily  met  with  a  workman,  who  immediately 
accompanied  him,  bringing  his  hatchet  and 
a  couple  of  young  firs;  and  justice  to  his  rude 


dexterity  requires  me  to  say,  that  in  half  an  hour 
from  the  time  of  his  arrival  we  were  provided 
with  two  new  poles  ;  the  trees  were  soon  cut 
square  at  one  end,  and  being  rudely  fashioned 
to  their  puq)ose,  were  with  the  aid  of  ropes  and 
a  few  nails  firmly  fixed  to  the  carriages ;  while  a 
wooden  peg  driven  through  the   opposite  end 
served  exceedingly  well,  instead  of  the  usual 
iron  hook,  as  the  harness  by  which  the  horses 
are  attached  to  the  vehicles  in  Russian  posting 
invariably  consists  but  of  ropes.     It  had  become 
dark  by  the  time  we  once  more  commenced  our 
journey,  which  prevented  my  making  any  further 
notes,  —  it  was  also  exceedingly  cold,  but  the 
stars  shone  beautifully,  while  the  atmosphere  and 
the  sky  were  so  serene  and  clear,  that  the  re- 
ceding twilight  appeared  in  those  respects  just 
like  that  of  a  fine   summei-'s   evening.      This 
effect  I  had  often  before  remarked  at  St.  Peters- 
burg, and  it  has  been  mentioned,  I  beheve,  by 
nearly  all  the  writers  who  have  travelled  in  these 
northern   regions.     Having  proceeded  twenty 
versts  further  and  reached  Vyra,  a  village  merely 
with  a  post  station,  we  changed  horses  and  re- 
sumed  our  journey,  and  after  travelling  twenty- two 
versts  more  arrived  at  Yastchera,  another  village 
and  post  station.     We  did  not  reach  this  place 
until  past  midnight ;  and  the  cold  had  been  so 
intense,  that  upon  taking  off  my  travelling  cap,  I 
found  the  underside  of  the   visor  contained  a 
thick  cake  of  ice,  formed  by  the  humidity  of  the 
breath  constantly  freezing.     The  shoob  also,  or 


n 


122 


JOURNEY    FROM 


great  fur  pelisse,  in  which  I  was  enveloped,  was 
in  like  manner,  where  it   had  been  in  contact 
with  my  mouth,  thickly  encrusted  with  icicles. 
We  were  glad  to  find  a  good  supper  in  readiness 
for  us  here,  which  having  disposed  of,  we  com- 
menced making  preparations  for  the  night.     No 
beds  were  to  be  i)rocured,  and  we  had   none 
with  us  ;  there  were,  however,  two  large  wooden 
seats,  somewhat  resembling  sofas,  in  our  room, 
upon  one  of  which  I  spread  my  shoob,  which, 
with  my  clothes  folded  up  into  a  bundle  for  the 
pillow,  formed  a  bed,  on  which,  in  spite  of  its 
hardness,  I  slept  very  well  until  morning.     The 
traveller  in  many  parts  of  Russia,  whatever  may 
be  his  rank  or  fortune,  imless  he  swell  his  train 
into  a  caravan,  and  carry  beds,  provisions,  and 
every  other   article  wanted  on  the  road,  must 
submit  to  numerous  inconveniences  and  often  to 
serious  hardships.    The  post-houses,  it  is  true,  for 
about  500  miles  to  the  south  of  St.  Petersburg, 
are  large  and  clean ;  being  built  by  the  govern- 
ment, the  postmaster  having  the  house  rent  free, 
and  fuel  found  for  him  ;  but  beyond  that  distance 
they  are  of  the  most  miserable  description  pos- 
sible, nor  is  even  "  black  bread"  to  be  obtained 
at  some  of  them. 

February  11th.  —  All  things  being  in  readi- 
ness, at  half-past  nine  in  the  morning  we  recom- 
menced our  journey,  the  weather  continuing 
uncommonly  fine.  On  leaving  this  station,  the 
road  entered  a  thick  forest,  which  bounded  it 
until  the  fourth  verst,  where  we  met  with  a  large 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


123 


village,  as  usual  constructed  of  wood.  The 
sledge-roads,  towards  the  middle  or  latter  end  of 
winter,  by  which  time  they  are  much  beaten, 
present  a  curious  appearance,  being  divided,  as 
it  were,  into  steps  at  equal  distances :  this  is 
caused  by  the  horses'  feet  almost  constantly 
treading  in  the  same  places,  which  at  length 
produce  depressions  in  the  ice  of  considerable 
depth.  I  remember  observing  a  similar  effect 
on  tlie  soft  ground  immediately  adjoining  the 
highways  in  Austria,  occasioned  during  wet 
weather,  by  the  numerous  herds  of  cattle  that 
proceed  to  the  Vienna  market  from  the  Polish 
provinces.  At  the  13th  verst  we  passed  a  scat- 
tered village,  and  noticed  three  miserable  pri- 
soners on  their  route  to  the  nearest  gaol,  under  a 
military  escort.  Having  even  then  some  idea 
of  the  manner  in  which  justice  is  dispensed  in 
Russia,  I  could  not  but  deplore  their  melancholy 
condition  ;  dragged  from  their  homes  to  a  dun- 
geon and  chains,  exposed  to  all  the  rigours  of  a 
horrible  climate,  and  after  all,  perhaps  innocent 
Pursuing  our  route,  at  twenty-five  and  a  half 
versts  we  arrived  at  Dolgof  ka,  which  is  merely 
a  village,  containing  a  post  station  :  changed 
horses,  and  as  we  were  setting  off,  met  Count 
Stroganof  returning  to  St.  Petersburg.  At  the 
fourth  verst  a  small  village  appeared,  and  about 
eight  and  a  half  another,  named  Arwooga,  a  dis- 
trict town  in  the  government  of  St.  Petersburg. 
The  country  is  here  exceedingly  pretty,  being 
diversified  with  slight  hills,  forming  a  pleasing 
contrast  to  the  flat  countr}^  passed  over  yester- 


li 


124 


JOURNEY    FROM 


day.  We  now  crossed  the  river  Loiiga.  The 
twelfth  verst  was  distinguislied  by  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  a  single  house :  at  the  fourteenth 
were  two  or  three :  the  eighteenth  was  close  to 
a  small  village ;  and  at  twenty-tliree  and  a  half 
we  arrived  at  Louga.  This  is  a  district  town, 
rather  large  in  dimensions,  though  the  houses 
are  chiefly  composed  of  wood.  It  contains  a 
church,  gastinoi-dvor,  market,  and  detachment 
of  soldiers ;  and,  like  most  district  towns,  has  a 
barrier  at  each  end,  erected  by  command  of  the 
Emperor  Paul.  Having  changed  horses  we  again 
started,  and  afler  proceeding  nine  versts,  passed 
through  a  large  village,  of  ancient  origin  ;  at  the 
nineteenth  another,  and  at  the  twenty-second  ar- 
rived at  Gorodetz,  also  a  village,  where  we  par- 
took of  an  excellent  dinner.  After  a  short  interval, 
the  horses  were  put  to,  and  we  continued  our  route, 
passing,  at  the  sixth,  ninth,  eleventh,  fourteenth, 
and  nineteenth  versts,  small  villages ;  and  at  the 
twenty-first,  reaching  Kritzy.  This  is  a  large 
village  and  post  station,  with  a  church  and  other 
public  buildings.  Among  the  peasants  who  drove 
us  to  this  place,  there  happened  to  be  some  who 
were  slaves  of  the  Count,  to  each  of  whom  His 
Excellency  ordered  two  roubles  to  be  given,  in- 
stead of  one,  his  usual  donation.  On  leaving 
this  station  a  handsome  private  house  appeared 
on  our  left :  the  name  of  its  owner  I  was  unable 
to  ascertain.  At  about  tlie  second  verst  we 
passed  through  a  WUage ;  at  the  third  another, 
much  larger,  with  a  very  curious  church ;  and 
at  the  twentieth  reached  Pheophelova  Poustine. 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


U5 


This  is  also  a  village,  and  merely  distinguished 
as  a  post  station,  where  we  changed  horses  pre- 
viously to  starting  again.  Another  day  now 
closed  over  us ;  we,  however,  performed  two 
additional  stages,  —  the  first  named  Zalazy,  con- 
sisting of  twenty-two  versts,  and  the  last,  Boro- 
vitchi,  of  twenty-two  and  a  half;  both  places 
being  merely  villages  and  post  stations,  the  latter 
being  situated  in  the  government  of  Pskof.  Dur- 
ing the  whole  of  this  day  our  roads  had  been 
exceedingly  bad  ;  and  the  cold  so  intense,  that  a 
bottle  of  sal  volatile  in  my  medicine-chest,  en- 
closed within  another  wooden  case,  as  well  as  a 
bottle  of  sherry  in  one  of  the  carriages,  had  been 
frozen.  We  took  tea  upon  our  arrival  at  the 
last-named  place  ;  and  the  majority  of  our  party 
shortly  after  retired  to  rest,  our  accommodations 
being  similar  to  those  of  last  night 

Tuesday,  February  12th.  —  At  ten  o'clock  this 
morning  we  once  more  entered  our  carriages,  the 
weather  having  become  much  warmer  since  yes- 
terday, and  the  atmosphere  hazy,  while  snow  was 
falling  in  dense  flakes  as  we  left  the  post-house 
of  Borovitchi.  During  the  first  ten  versts  we 
passed  four  villages,  all  of  the  same  description 
as  those  so  often  mentioned  before ;  and  some- 
what further  on,  another,  in  which  we  remarked 
a  very  curious  old  wooden  church,  obviously  fast 
sinking  into  decay  ;  and  to  supply  the  anticipated 
deficiency,  a  new  one  was  constructing  opposite. 
Having  proceeded  some  versts,  we  overtook  a 
detachment  of  soldiers  in  charge  of  army  bag- 


II 


t 


( 


m 


12G 


JOURNEY  FROM 


ST.  PETERSBURG  TO  ODESSA. 


1^ 


gage,  on  its  way  to  the  Turkish  frontiers ;  and 
at  the  twenty-sixth  verst  arrived  at  Porkhof. 
This  is  a  district  town,  and  is  a  very  ancient 
place.  It  has  two  churches,  a  large  market,  a 
gastinoi-dvor,  &c.  We  stopped  here  a  short  time, 
for  the  purpose  of  taking  some  refreshment ;  and 
having  changed  horses,  set  oft*  again.  The  fol- 
lowing villages  and  post  stations  were  in  the 
course  of  the  day  successively  passed;  their  dis- 
tances from  each  other  being  as  follows :  — 
twenty-six  and  a  half  versts,  Doubrova ;  twenty- 
five,  Sorokina;  twenty-five,  Acheva;  which  latter 
place  we  reached  about  nine  o'clock,  the  last 
stage  having  been  performed  in  the  dark,  through 
dreadful  roads ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  precau- 
tion of  holding  constantly  with  both  hands,  I 
received  several  severe  blows,  in  consequence  of 
being  jerked  against  the  sides  and  front  of  tlie 
vehicle  in  which  I  trav  elled.  We  met  here  a  Major 
of  gensdarmes,  who  was  on  his  road  to  Odessa, 
in  charge  of  the  Emperor's  horses,  which  were 
going  thither  to  be  in  readiness  for  his  Imperial 
Majesty's  arrival  at  that  place.  The  Major  very 
kindly  ceded  his  room  to  Mr.  S.  and  myself,  and 
on  the  following  morning  pursued  his  route. 

Thursday,  February  14th.  —  At  half-past  five 
p.  M.  we  again  mustered  and  recommenced  our 
travels,  having  been  most  unfortunately  detained 
at  this  place  since  Tuesday  evening,  by  the  sud- 
den and  dangerous  illness  of  the  Countess  Vo- 
rontzof.  Her  Ladyship  was  by  no  means  in  a  fit 
state  for  continuing  so  fatiguing  a  journey  ;  but 


I 


the  absolute  want  of  proper  accommodations 
where  we  were,  and  the  impossibility  of  obtain- 
ing them  without  proceeding,  made  me  sanction 
her  own  and  His  Excellency's  wishes  on  the  sub- 
ject ;  nor  had  I  any  reason  afterwards  to  regret 
having  done  so.  The  weather  had  again  become 
colder,  the  thermometer  standing  at  S""  Reau- 
mur; or,  as  the  Russians  term  it,  there  being 
eight  degrees  of  cold.  During  the  following 
night  the  under-mentioned  post  stations  were 
passed  :  —  at  twenty-one  versts,  Bejanitzy  ;  at 
twenty-four,  Mikhailof  Pogost ;  at  twenty-six 
and  a  half,  Priskoukha ;  at  twenty,  Nedomierky 
(these  are  merely  villages) ;  at  twenty-two  and 
a  half,  Velikie  Louki.  This  latter  is  a  district 
town  of  very  ancient  date.  In  1611  it  was  taken 
and  burned  by  the  partisans  of  the  false  Deme- 
trius. It  contains  several  churches,  and  twenty- 
seven  manufactories  of  leather,  which  is  sent  by 
water  to  the  St.  Petersburg  market. 

Friday,  Feb.  15. — Having  proceeded  sixteen 
and  a  half  versts  from  Velikie  Louki,  we  arrived 
about  half  past  ten  a.  m.  at  Seruti,  having  entered 
the  government  of  Vitebsk.  Seruti  is  merely  a  post 
station,  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  dense  forest, 
numerously  inhabited  by  bears  and  wolves.  We 
were  informed  that  these  latter  animals  are  some- 
times so  bold  as  even  to  come  prowling  about  the 
stable-yard  of  the  post-house  in  search  of  prey ; 
but  this,  no  doubt,  only  takes  place  when  they  are 
severely  pressed  by  hunger.  We  had  travelled,  ex- 
excepting  merely  the  usual  unavoidable  stoppages 


i 


128 


JOURNEY    FROM 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


1^ 


occasioned  by  changing  horses  and  accidents,  with- 
out intermission  since  yesterday  afternoon :  several 
of  our  horses,  in  consequence  of  the  bad  roads, 
fell  during  the  night,  but,  in  one  instance  only, 
did  any  material  delay  arise.     In  this  case,  the 
animals  slipped  into  a  hole  full  of  snow,  from 
which  they  could  not  be  extricated  without  the 
united  efforts  of  several  peasants,  aided  by  long 
poles  as  lovers,  and  which  detained  us  for  at  least 
half  an  hour.    Upon  our  arrival  at  Seruti  we  took 
breakfast;  at  one  o'clock  dined;  and  at  three 
p.  M.  set  off  again.    We  now  entered  what  was 
formerly  called  White  Russia.    The  road,  during 
all  the  next  stage,  passes  through  a  thick  forest, 
undulating,  very  romantically,  among  the  trees, 
the  ground  being  often  picturesquely  varied  by 
slight  hill  and  dale;  and,  indeed,  this  kind  of 
scenery  continued,  with  little  interruption,  during 
the  whole  day's  journey.    We  observed  frequent 
prints  of  wolves'  feet  where  they  had  evidently 
crossed  and  recrossed  the  road,  but  not  a  single 
wolf  did  we  meet  with,  in  propria  persona  ;  at 
which,  I  confess,  I  was  somewhat  disappointed, 
having  long  wished  to  see  that  ferocious  animal 
in  his  native  wilds.     We  travelled   constantly, 
from  the  time  of  our  starting  in  the  afternoon, 
until  ten  o'clock,  when  we  had  performed  four 
stages,  their  names  and  distances  being  as  under : 
Szurilova  (village),  twenty-two  and  a  half  versts ; 
Usviat  (large  village),  twenty  and  a  half;  Szly- 
kova  (post  station  only),  twenty-one ;  and  Sou- 
rage,  twenty-one  and  a  half;  where  it  was  deter- 


mined to  stop  for  the  night  This  is  a  small 
town,  built  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Dvina,  which 
we  passed  while  it  was  dark  without  my  being 
aware  of  it.  The  country  about  this  place  pre- 
sents no  remarkable  feature,  yet  is  extremely 
interesting  on  account  of  the  events  by  which  it 
has  been  distinguished  within  the  last  twenty 
years.  All  the  ground  that  we  have  passed  over 
to  day  was  trodden  by  the  conflicting  armies  in 
the  memorable  campaign  of  1812 :  upon  these 
very  plains  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  of 
the  French  invaders  perished  by  the  sword  and 
the  rigour  of  the  climate,  in  addition  to  their 
numerous  opponents  who  fell  in  the  cause  of  their 
country. 

Saturday,  Feb.  16. — We  set  off  this  morning 
at  about  half  past  nine,  and  after  travelling  nine- 
teen and  a  half  versts  reached  Gaponovtchina, 
which  is  only  a  post  station ;  and  at  twenty  and 
a  half  versts  from  this  place  we  arrived  at  Vi- 
tebsk. Two  stone  pUlars  of  ample  dimensions, 
surmounted  by  the  Imperial  eagles,  form  the 
barrier,  through  which,  on  entering  the  town, 
the  traveller  observes  the  prison  on  his  right 
hand.  Vitebsk,  the  chief  town  of  the  govern- 
ment so  named,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Dvina,  which  divides  it  into  two  parts :  it  is  a 
very  large  place,  containing  a  Russian  church 
for  the  garrison,  eight  monasteries,  three  Roman 
Catholic  and  eleven  Greek  churches,  two  con- 
vents, a  gymnasium,  three  synagogues,  maga- 
zines, hospitals,  tribunals,   tanneries,  &c.    The 


f^' 


130 


JOURNEY    FROM 


!l^ 


I  . 


population,  consisting  chiefly  of  those  of  the 
Jewish  persuasion,  is  supposed  to  number  about 
13,000  souls.  Here  were  Buonaparte's  first  head- 
quarters  after  leaving  Wilna.  The  country  passed 
through  this  morning  is  very  beautiful,  being 
agreeably  diversified  with  large  hills  and  deep 
valleys.  The  roads,  of  good  dimensions,  were 
excellent,  and  being  planted  regularly  on  each 
side  with  fine  birch  trees  had  a  pleasing  appear- 
ance,  although  the  latter  were  destitute  of  foliage. 
The  soul-stirring  occurrences  which  have  taken 
place  upon  these  very  roads  furnish  ample  mate- 
rials for  reflection  and  conversation  to  passen- 
gers ;  and  the  subject  was  continually  kept  in 
our  minds  by  the  troops  and  army  baggage  pro- 
ceeding southward,  which  were  from  time  to 

time  overtaken  by  us.   Mr.  S and  I  travelled 

to  Vitebsk  in  advance  of  Count  Vorontzof,  in 
order  to  give  notice  of  his  near  approach  to  the 
governor  of  that  place,  witli  whom  His  Excel- 
lency had  some  official  business  to  transact.  We 
got  there  about  noon ;  and  after  remaining  a  short 
time  resumed  our  journey,  passing  through  the 
left  side  of  the  town,  the  Dvina  being  on  our 
right  Having  performed  twenty-one  versts  and 
three  quarters  we  arrived  at  Poloviky,  a  post 
station  merely;  and  after  twenty-five  and  a  quarter 
further,  at  Babinovitchi,  having  entered  the  go- 
vernment of  Mogilef.  Babinovitchi  is  a  district 
town,  and  has  a  church,  but  its  inhabitants  are 
few  in  number.  We  reached  this  place  about 
four  o'clock,  immediately  dined,  and  at  five  again 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


131 


took  the  road,  performing  two  additional  stages  ; 
the  first,  of  seventeen  versts  and  three  quarters 
brought  us  to  Orzechi,  a  village  and  post  station ; 
and  the  next,  of  twenty  versts,  toOrcha,  the  chief 
town  of  a  district.  It  is  situated  upon  the  Dnieper, 
and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orchitza,  from  which 
river  the  name  of  the  place  has  originated.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  the  Russian 
empire ;  contains  four  Gre^k  churches,  an  equal 
number  of  monasteries,  belonging  to  the  orders 
of  St.  Dominic,  St.  Francis,  St.  Bernard,  and  St. 
Basil ;  a  convent,  as  well  as  a  college  of  Jesuits, 
and  a  synagogue.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is 
estimated  at  about  one  thousand  six  hundred.  We 
did  not  reach  Orcha  until  half  past  nine  p.  m., 
and  were  much  fatigued  with  our  day's  journey. 
We  were  here  entirely  among  Jews,  and,  as  a  ne- 
cessary consequence,  in  the  most  abominable  filth 
possible.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that,  notwith- 
standing the  numerous  ordinances  in  the  Jewish 
religion  respecting  cleanHness,  no  class  of  people 
in  the  whole  civilised  world  are  so  deficient  in 
that  respect  as  the  lower  orders  of  the  Russian 
and  Polish  Jews.  The  post-house,  where  we  took 
up  our  quarters,  was  the  largest  we  had  yet  met 
with,  consisting  of  two  separate  buildings ;  but 
it  was  also  the  dirtiest :  ample  reason  for  which 
will  be  evident  after  what  has  been  just  observed, 
pn  adding,  that  the  postmaster  and  servants  of 
both  sexes  were  all  Israelites.  Where  we 
h^d  stopped  before,  the  houses  were  generally 
clean,  well  regulated,  and  sufficiently  warmed; 

K   2 


,! 


Ill 


J 


fl 


132 


JOURNEY   FROM 


but  the  one  in  which  we  now  were  presented  the 
direct  reverse  of  such  desirable  qualities.     The 

room   which  was  occupied  by  Mr.  S and 

myself  was  in  the  grossest  state  of  impurity.  It 
had  been  divided  by  slight  materials  and  clumsy 
workmanship  into  two  compartments,  in  one  of 
which  was  placed  a  wooden  bench,  not  more  than 
eighteen  inches  in  width,  covered  with  dirty  hay ; 
upon  this,  after  removing  the  latter,  wrapped  up 
in  my  shoob,  I  passed  the  night ;  while  my  com- 
panion reposed,  not  much  more  agreeably,  in 
the  other,  upon  three  or  four  broken  chairs. 
Notwithstanding,  however,  the  miserable  and 
disgusting  nature  of  our  accommodations,  we 
were  so  fatigued,  that  both  slept  soundly  until 
aroused  by  one  of  the  Count's  servants  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  with  a  message  from  His  Excel- 
lency, who  happened  to  have  need  of  our  re- 
spective services. 

Sunday,  February  17th. — Rising  hastily  and 
demanding  water,  with  which  to  wash,  we  had 
the  surprise  and  mortification  of  finding  that 
even  this  was  not  to  be  procured ;  and  were  ul- 
timately obliged  to  set  off,  at  nine  o'clock,  without 
having  performed  that  necessary  and  .refreshing 
operation.  The  road  hence  to  the  first  station, 
Alexandria,  a  distance  of  twenty-two  versts  and 
three  quarters,  was  throughout  planted  on  each 
side  with  birch-trees.  We  resumed  our  journey, 
after  changing  horses  here,  which  were  of  so 
imserable  a  description,  that  those  attached  to 
tlie  Count's  carriage  being  unable  to  surmount 


as 


MP- 


\f 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


133 


the  very  first  hill  they  came  to,  no  alternative 
presented  itself  but  that  of  sending  them  back 
to  the  post-house  in  exchange  for  others.  After 
travelling  seventeen  versts  further  we  reached 
Sklof,  a  small  town  belonging  to  General  Zoritch, 
where  we  again  changed  horses.  A  post  station 
named  Dobreyka  next  presented  itself,  distant 
twelve  versts  from  the  last ;  and  twenty  versts 
further  we  arrived  at  Mogilef.  Upon  entering 
Sklof  the  guard  was  turned  out,  which  saluted 
the  Count  as  he  passed.  It  has  a  barrier  at 
each  end  consisting  of  two  brick  pillars,  and 
contains  two  churches,  a  market,  guard  of 
soldiers,  &c.  Here  is  the  ruin  of  a  fine  edifice 
erected  by  General  Zoritch,  and  devoted  to 
the  education  of  young  men  for  the  military 
service.  It  was  built  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
and  was  nearly  destroyed  by  Buonaparte  during 
his  invasion  of  Russia  in  1812  :  all  the  internal 
parts  were  burnt,  but  the  outward  walls  are  yet 
standing,  and  exhibit  a  sad  monument  of  the 
building's  former  magnificence  and  the  devouring 
ravages  of  war.  Previously  to  our  arrival  at 
Mogilef  the  master  of  the  police,  in  his  sledge, 
was  waiting  half  a  verst  from  the  town  to  pay 
his  respects  to  the  Count;  and  having  done 
so,  he  joined  our  train  to  the  barrier,  a  handsome 
arch  of  brick  stuccoed  over.  Here  the  com- 
manding officer  of  the  gensdarmes  was  also  in 
readiness,  and  the  guard  again  turned  out  His 
Excellency  then,  accompanied  by  these  officers, 
drove  to  the  mansion  of  Field  Marshal  Count 

K  3 


I 


I, 


134 


JOURNEY    FROM 


Sacken,  commander-in-chief  of  the  first  or 
northern  army  of  Russia,  whose  guest  he  had 
agreed  to  be  during  his  stay  in  Mogilef.  Mr. 
S  and  I  proceeded  to  the  nearest  inn ;  and 

had  just  begun  to  enquire  for  water,  towels,  and 
soap,  when  we  were  interrupted  by  the  arrival 
of  an  aide-de-camp  from  the  Marshal,  who  was 
the  bearer  of  a  most  polite  invitation  to  dinner, 
and  which  was  announced  to  be  nearly  ready. 
The  awkwardness  of  our  situation  may  be 
easily  conceived :  we  could  not  present  our- 
selves at  Count  Sacken*  s  table  in  the  state  of  un- 
cleanliness  to  which  we  were  then  unavoidably 
reduced,  and  unfortunately  there  was  no  time 
to  wash  and  dress,  as,  independently  of  the  ne- 
cessary means  for  so  doing  not  being  at  hand, 
our  clothes  and  linen  were  packed  up  in  port- 
manteaus, and  these  firmly  lashed  to  our  car- 
riage, so  that  a  considerable  time  must  have 
elapsed  even  before  they  could  be  accessible.  — 
We,  therefore,  begged  the  officer  to  oblige  us, 
by  returning  our  acknowledgments  to  the  Mar- 
shal for  the  intended  honour,  requesting  him  also 
to  explain  to  His  Excellency  the  unpleasant  cir- 
cumstances in  which  we  were  placed,  and  to 
add,  that  in  consequence  we  should  be  pre- 
vented from  availing  ourselves  of  his  flattering 
invitation.  However,  shortly  aflerwards  the 
aide-de-camp  returned  to  say  that  Count  Sacken 
regretted  exceedingly  we  were  unable  to  dine 
with  him,  but  insisted  upon  our  coming  imme- 
diately to  his  house  and  stopping  there  during  the 


t^ 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


135 


time  we  were  to  remain  in  Mogilef.  We  could 
not,  of  course,  but  feel  highly  gratified  with  this  > 
second  kind  and  considerate  message;  accord- 
ingly, directing  our  portmanteaus  to  be  sent  afler 
us,  we  jumped  into  the  officer's  sledge,  and  were 
speedily  conveyed  to  the  Marshal's  residence  ;i 
where  we  stopped  until  the  following  morning, 
and  where  we  experienced  every  comfort  and 
attention  that  could  be  desired.  Mogilef  is  the 
capital  of  the  government  of  the  same  name, 
built  upon  the  east  bank  of  the  Dnieper,  and  is  a 
most  ancient  town,  —  the  precise  date  of  its 
foundation  being  unknown.  Until  the  end  of 
the  thirteenth  century,  it  belonged  constantly  to 
the  Russian  princes,  after  which  it  passed  into 
other  hands.  In  1772,  it  was  re-united  to  the 
Russian  empire  by  the  Empress  Catharine  the 
Second,  who,  in  six  yeai's  afterwards,  erected  it 
into  the  chief  town  of  the  government  of  Mo^ 
gilef.  It  is  a  most  curious  place ;  contains  many 
convents  for  those  professing  the  Greek  and  the 
Roman  Catholic  religions  ;  numerous  churches, 
two  synagogues,  and  the  residence  of  a  Rus- 
sian archbishop.  The  population  is  supposed 
to  amount  to  about  9000  persons  of  both 
sexes,  of  which  2000  are  of  the  Jewish  re- 
ligion. There  are  in  this  town  22  tanneries; 
the  manufacture  of  leather  forming  the  chief 
employment  of  its  inhabitants.  The  merchants 
of  Mogilef  carry  on  a  considerable  commerce 
with  the  ports  of  Riga,  Memel,  and  Dantzic ;  ex- 
porting    leather,    tallow,   wax,    honey,   potashf 

K  4 


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•        I 

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JOURNEY    FROM 


hemp,  and  com,  and  importing  in  return  raw 

silk. 

Monday,  Feb.  18.  —At  half  past  nine  this 
morning,  all  being  in  readiness,  we  bade  adieu 
to  our  distinguished  host,  whose  good  cheer  was 
of  material  service  in  enabUng  our  mental  and 
corporeal  energies  to  encounter  the  distance  and 
the   difficulties  yet  remaining  between   us  and 

Odessa. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  20.  (One  o'clock  a.  m.)  — 
We  have  just  arrived  at  Cozaletz,  a  small  town 
in  the  government  of  Tchemigof ;  from  Monday 
morning  last,  until  the  present  moment,  having 
been  travelling  continually,  with  the  exception 
of  stopping  an  hour  for  dinner  at  three  o'clock 
on  Monday  afternoon,  about  half  an  hour  on 
Tuesday  morning  at  four  o'clock  (when  we 
could  procure  merely  a  cup  of  tea),  and  at  three 
o'clock  yesterday  afternoon,  when  we  partook  of 
a  slender  repast.  This  was  hard  work,  certainly, 
yet  it  was  absolutely  necessary,  in  consequence 
of  there  being  no  inns  or  decent  post-houses  in 
the  line  of  road  for  our  accommodation.  No- 
thing particular  occurred  on  Monday  beyond  our 
passing  through  the  following  places,  where  we 
changed  horses ;  namely,  the  village  of  Kutnia, 
a  distance  of  thirty  versts  and  a  quarter ;  Rabo- 
vitchi,  twenty-six  and  a  half;  Propoisk,  twelve  and 
a  half  (these  were  villages,  the  former  small,  the 
last  of  considerable  size) ;  Glinka,  a  station  only, 
sixteen  and  three  quarters;  Litvinovitchi,  a  trifling 
village,  thirteen  and  a  half ;  Voronovtchina,  a 


» 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA.  I37 

Station,  nineteen  and  three  quarters;  Tchetcherst, 
a  large  village,  twelve ;  Shepotovitchi,  sixteen  and 
a  quarter ;  Osbina,  sixteen  (stations),  and  Kos- 
toukovka,  a  small  village,  twelve  and  a  half.   On 
Tuesday  we  reached  the  under-mentioned  places ; 
Gomel,  a  considerable  village,  the  property  of 
Count  Razumofskii.     This  is  not  a  post-station, 
but  it  contains  an  inn,  at  which  we  stopped,  and 
had  some  tea ;  Novo  Belitza,  a  town  with  a  Greek 
church,  and  about  seven  hundred  inhabitants, 
nineteen  versts  and  a  half;  Pesostnaja  Buda,  a 
village,  nineteen  and  a  half;  Dobryanka,  a  sta- 
tion in  the  government  of  Tchernigof,  twenty 
and  a  quarter ;  Drozdovitza,  a  village,  seventeen ; 
Gorodnya,  a  village,  fifteen  ;  Siednef;  a  village] 
twenty-seven ;  Tchernigof,  twenty-five,  the  capital 
of  the  government  of  Tchemigof,  a  very  ancient 
town,  supposed  to  be  at  least  as  old  as  Kief.    It 
has  a  cathedral  (built  of  stone  in  the  eleventh 
century),  another  church  of  wood,  and  a  monas- 
tery,  within  the  enclosure  of  which  is  situated  the 
archiepiscopal  palace,  consisting  of  two  stories  ; 
there  are  also  in  the  town  two  convents,  eight 
other  churches,  with  a  school  and  gymnasium, 
dependent  upon  the  university  of  Kharkof,  and 
in  which  there  are  professors  of  mathematics, 
natural  history,  philosophy,  and  of  the  Russian, 
Latin,  German,  and  French  languages.     Tcher- 
nigof, besides,  contains  several  large  markets; 
and  an  archbishop  always  resides  here.     From 
this  place  we  reached,  at  twenty-six  versts,  the 
village  Krasnoe  ;  next  passed  through  Tchemer, 


J 


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JOURNEY    FROM 


a  village ;  and,  finally,  we  arrived,  as  before  men- 
tioned, at  Cozaletz,  our  last  stage  being  twenty- 
two  versts,   and  that  immediately  preceding  it 
twenty-seven.    Since  yesterday  morning  we  have 
been  travelling  in  Little  Russia ;  and  the  appear- 
ance of  the  country  is  very  different  from  that 
which  we  observed  during  the  early  part  of  our 
journey.     Situated  in  a  district,  the  soil  and  cli- 
mate of  which  are  such  as  to  render  the  cultiva- 
tion  of  corn  a  general  employment,  the  houses 
now  seen  are,  therefore,  no  longer  roofed  with 
woody  but  thatched  with   straw.     We  noticed, 
from  time  to  time,  many  windmills,  of  rude  con- 
struction, with  six  vanes, — another  indication  as 
to  the  produce  of  the  surrounding  country.  The 
forests  here  also  are  of  a  different  kind,  being 
chiefly  oak,  of  which  magnificent  specimens  fre- 
quently appeared ;  and  to  several  of  them  hol- 
lowed trunks  of  trees  were  affixed  at  a  great 
height,   for  the  purpose   of  collecting  honey, 
which  forms  a  considerable  article  of  exportation 
from  Russia.     These  wooden  bee-hives  are  con- 
structed by  the  peasants  who   reside  near  the 
spot ;  but  the    seigneur  claims   a   tithe   of  the 
honey  which  may  be  found  in  them.    About  this 
part,  also,  grows  the  timber  employed  in  building 
the  Russian  navy,  which  is  conveyed,  by  means 
of  the  Dnieper,  to  the  Black  Sea.     There  are 
now  orchards  adjoining  the  log-houses;  which 
latter  being  plastered  over  and  washed  white  or 
yellow,  with  the  thatched  roofs  already  alluded 
to,  present  a  very  great  resemblance  to  the  cot- 


i 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


1.39 


tages  of  our  own  country,  and  are  much  more 
pleasing  to  the  eye  (at  least  to  that  of  an  English- 
man). But  it  must  be  remembered,  that,  although 
we  have  only  been  absent  from  St.  Petersburg  a 
few  days,  yet  we  have  advanced  many  hundred 
miles  to  the  south  of  that  city,  which  is  sufficient 
to  explain  the  changes  I  am  mentioning.  We 
also  passed  yesterday  part  of  what  are  called  the 
"  Steppes : "  these  are  immense  districts,  nearly  or 
perfectly  flat.  Nothing  is  to  be  discerned  but  sky 
and  plain,  except,  indeed,  when  a  straggling  tree 
or  two,  or  some  clusters  of  tumuli,  or  barrows,  ap- 
pear, and  in  a  slight  degree  break  the  wearisome 
monotony  which  reigns  in  these  vast  and  solitary 
regions.  There  are  a  great  many  tumuli  about 
the  "  Steppes  **  in  this  neighbourhood,  raised,  no 
doubt,  by  the  Tartars ;  as,  when  opened,  they 
have  been  found  to  contain  human  bones,  inter- 
mingled with  ornaments  of  known  Tartar  origin ; 
though  in  many  cases,  after  a  careful  examination, 
nothing  whatever  could  be  discovered  except 
the  earth  of  which  they  were  composed.  The 
purposes  to  which  they  were  appropriated  by 
their  founders  may  admit  of  some  question. 
That  they  were  places  of  sepulture  is  proved  by 
the  bones  found  in  them ;  but  that  they  were 
also  otherwise  employed  cannot,  I  think,  be 
doubted.  The  Tartars  were  of  wandering  ha- 
bits, living  in  tents,  and  remaining  in  one  place 
only  until  the  surrounding  pasture  was  con- 
sumed, and  then  removing,  with  their  flocks  and 
herds,  in  search  of  greater  abundance  elsewhere. 


I 


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140 


JOURNEY    FROM 


It  is  reasonable,  therefore,  to  suppose,  that  these 
tumuU  are  found  where  Tartar  encampments 
formerly  existed,  and  that  such  of  those  people 
who  died  in  the  course  of  nature,  or  were  killed 
by  their  enemies,  found  a  lasting  repose  on  the 
spot  where  their  wandering  career  had  termi- 
nated ;  while  their  surviving  friends  erected  the 
rude  mausolea  which  now  attract  the  attention 
of  the  traveller  through  districts  otherwise  devoid 
of  interest*  The  level  nature,  however,  of  the 
country  being  such  as  to  require  places  of  ob- 
servation, from  which  its  inhabitants  might  be 
able  to  distinguish  the  approach  of  their  enemies 
at  a  distance,  it  is  probable  that  the  structures 
in  question  might  also  be  employed  for  that  pur- 
pose, as  well  as  for  lighting  beacons  upon  them ; 
for  both  of  which  uses  they  would  serve  admir- 
ably. But  whatever  may  have  been  their  origin, 
or  the  objects  of  their  construction,  an  occurrence 
of  yesterday  evening  has  given  me  good  reason 
to  remember  the  "  Steppes."  The  night  had 
already  set  in,  and  a  snow-storm  with  wind  (a 
serious  thing  under  such  circumstances)  arising, 
the  drivers  soon  lost  their  way,  having  turned  to 
the  right,  as  we  afterwards  found,  instead  of  to 
the  left,  all  traces  of  the  road  being  obHterated 
by  the  uniform  covering  of*  the  snow.  We  were 
not  aware  of  the  mistake,  nor  were  the  drivers 
themselves  conscious  of  it,  until,  perhaps  fortu- 
nately, the  horses  of  the  Count's  carriage,  which 
always  took  the  lead,  fell  into  a  deep  hole  filled 
with  snow ;  and  shortly  afterwards  the  same  ac- 


\ 


I  I 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


141 


cident  happened  to  those  in  our  calash,  and 
which,  in  consequence,  was  nearly  overturned. 
Our  progress  being  thus  unexpectedly  arrested, 
the  servants  instantly  jumped  down  ;  the  Count 
got  out  of  his  carriage,  and  Mr.  S and  I  im- 
mediately followed  his  example.     We  were  on 
heaps  of  drifted  snow  and  ice,  which,  however, 
presented  a  more  level  surface  than  did  the  earth 
beneath,  as  I  sunk  into  a  hole,  nearly  up  to  my 
middle,  while  attempting  to  reconnoitre  the  situ- 
ation we  were  in.     For  some  time  it  was  im- 
possible to  move  the  vehicles;    and,  from  the 
perfect   ignorance   in   which   we   were   of  our 
present  situation,  we  knew  not  in  what  direction 
to  steer;  and  thus  no  prospect  presented  itself 
but  that  of  remaining  where  we  were,  until  break 
of  day  might  enable  us  to  discern  our  road,  —  a 
state  of  affairs  by  no  means  the  most  pleasant  to 
contemplate,  as  frequently,  under  such  circum- 
stances,  parties  like  ours  become  frozen  to  death.* 
The  carriages  were  now  left  alone,  while  the  ser- 
vants and  drivers  separated  in  different  directions, 
under  the  hope  of  being  able  to  discover  the  road 
from  which  we  had  deviated ;  and,  contrary  to  our 
most  sanguine  expectations,  this  was,  after  only 
a  short  time,  effected  by  one  of  the  former ;  and 
when  once  regained,  its  continuation  could  still 

«  Only  last  winter  (1828),  while  at  Odessa,  I  was  informed 
that  6000  Turkish  prisoners  of  war  were  frozen  to  death  aA 
well  as  the  Kozaks  who  were  escorting  them  on  the  «  Steppes," 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kief,  while  proceeding  to  the  place 
which  had  been  selected  for  their  detention  during  their 
stay  in  Russia. 


U2 


JOURNEY    FROM 


be  traced.  We  now,  with  redoubled  energy, 
endeavoured  to  extricate  the  carriages  from  their 
perilous  situations,  which  proved  a  task  of  con- 
siderable difficulty  :  at  last,  however,  it  was  ac- 
complished ;  when,  after  a  delay  not  much  ex- 
ceeding an  hour  from  the  time  of  the  accident 
first  happening,  we  once  more  carefully  and 
slowly  resumed  our  route.  At  Cozaletz  we 
found  the  accommodations  at  the  inn  and  post- 
house  of  the  most  miserable  descrij)tion.  There 
was  a  bed  certainly ;  upon  which,  of  course,  it 
was  proposed  that  the  Countess  should  rest ;  but 
upon  examination  it  appeared  so  extremely  filthy, 
that  Her  Ladyship  declined  its  use,  and  preferred 
occupying  her  own  close  carriage  as  it  stood  in 
the  inn-yard,  —  thus  passing  the  night,  though 
the  temperature  was  several  degrees  below  zero. 

As  for  Mr.  S and  myself;  there  being  no  room 

for  us  in  the  inn,  we  were  obliged  to  seek  quar- 
ters elsewhere,  and  were  lucky  ertough  to  procure 
a  lodging  in  a  small  house  in  the  vicinity,  where, 
as  usual,  our  shoobs  and  cloaks  formed  our  only 
beds.  - 

The  reader  is  requested  to  compare  the  fore- 
going and  following  account  of  an  actual  journey 
in  Russia,  performed,  a  few  weeks  afler  the  de- 
parture of  Dr.  Granville  from  St.  Petersburg,  by 
one  of  the  richest  noblemen  in  that  empire  and  his 
suite,  —  during  which,  numerous  privations  and 
inconveniences  were  experienced  by  all,  —  with 
the  following  quotations  from  two  of  the  first 
pages  in  "  St.  Petersburg,"  and  then  say  whe- 


\ 


mm 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


143 


ther  the  statements  of  Drs.  Clarke  and  Lyall, 
with  those  of  other  English  travellers,  are  not 
still  worthy  of  credit ;  and  whether  the  charge 
of  exaggeration  and  untruth,  which  has  been,  to 
say  the  least  of  it,  uncourteously  brought  against 
them,  is  not  unfounded,  and  unwarranted  by  the 
slight  personal  experience  which  the  author  of 
that  work  has  had  of  travelling  in  Russia :  nor 
does  it  appear  to  me  to  be  in  the  best  taste  to 
strain  every  nerve  for  the  purpose  of  paying  un- 
deserved compliments  to  Russia,  at  the  ejcpense  of 
England :  — 

"  A  journey  to  Russia,  even  in  this  wandering 
age,  is  not  undertaken,  for  the  first  time,  with 
the  same  light  heart  with  which  the  gay  and 
thoughtless  leap  into  the  britshka  that  is  to  land 
them  safely  at  the  Hotel  de  Rivoli,  or  at  some 
other  equally  extravagant  establishment  in  that 
Babylon  of  pleasures,  Paris.  English  travellers^ 
who  have  favoured  us  with  an  account  of  their 
visits  to  that  northern  country,  have  taken  care 
to  prevent  all  siich  pleasing  impressions.  As  for 
myself;  I  confess,  that,  on  reading  Clarke  and 
Lyall,  and  other  accounts  of  Russia  published  in 
England,  I  felt  almost  frightened  at  the  idea  of 
having  to  encounter  such  an  interminable  series 
of  privations  and  discomforts  as  the  journey  in 
contemplation  was  about  to  entail  upon  me,  ac- 
cording to  the  testimony  of  these  two  writers. 

"  « Mercy  upon  me!'  I  exclaimed,  afler  closing 
the  ponderous  quarto  of  the  late  worthy  pro- 
fessor  of  mineralogy,  and  the  lighter  pages  of 


-[ 


■.i 


\i 


\ 


144 


JOURNEY    FROM 


the  author  of  *  The  Character  of  the  Russians.* 
<  Mercy  on  me  !  I  am  to  hejleecedy  cheated^  and 
laughed  at :  I  shall  lie  mthout  a  bed,  starve  on 
black  bread,  and  swarm  with  vemiin*  —  •  There  is 
no  cJiance  of  seeing  a  handsome  woman :  the  gen- 
tlemen are  all  ignoramuses,  and  the  common  people 
brutes  :  the  government  is  despotic,  and  the  police 

troublesome*  '* 

My  own  opinion,  I  confess  most  candidly,  is 
that  all  the  statements  here  made  ironically  are 
literally  and  bond  fide  true,  with  the  exception 
of  that  which  denounces  all  the  gentlemen  as 
ignoramuses  •  ;  and  I  trust  my  readers  will  be 
of  the  same  opinion,  on  remembering  that  my 
assertions  and  descriptions  are  in  unison  with 
those  of  almost  every  writer  on  the  subject 

Wednesday,  Feb.  20th.  — We  rose  about  halt 
past  six,  and,  having  quickly  dressed,  joined  the 
Count  and  Countess  at  the  inn,  whom  we  found 
already  waiting  for  us.  Having  breakfasted,  we 
speedily  arranged  our  carriages,  and  before  eight 
o'clock  were  once  more  on  the  road.  After  pro- 
ceeding twenty-seven  versts,  we  arrived  at  Semi- 
polki,  a  village ;  after  twenty-eight  further,  Bro- 
vari,  also  a  village ;  beyond  which,  at  twenty 
versts,  appeared  Kief,  the  capital  of  the  govern- 
ment of  the  same  name,  situated  upon  the  Dnieper. 

*  We  are  informed  by  the  author  of  "  St.  Petersburg/' 
that, "  even  among  people  of  rank  and  independent  fortune,** 
he  actually  "  found  ajeto  who  had  cultivated  science  for  its 
own  sake,  and  the  enjoyments  it  procures ! "  —  St.  Peters- 
burg, vol.  ii.  p.  104. 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


145 


The  date  of  its  foundation  is  uncertain,  but  is 
supposed  to  have  been  before  the  Christian  era. 
It  was  formerly  the  metropolis  of  the  Russian 
empire :  from  hence,  in  1156,  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment  was  transferred  to  Vladimir ;  at  an  after 
period  it  was  removed  to  Moskow,  and  Peter  the 
Great  finally  established  it  at  St.  Petersburg.  We 
reached  Kief  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
and  stopped  there  about  three  hours  and  a  half! 

As  soon  as  we  had  dined,  Mr.  S and  I  hired 

a  sledge,  and  visited  the  most  interesting  parts 
of  the  town.     Kief  is  most  picturesquely  and  ro- 
mantically  situated,  being  built  upon  several  high 
hills,  and,   strictly  speaking,    consists   of  three 
towns  ;  namely,  the  fortress  of  Petchersk,   with 
its  fauxbourg,  Old  Kief,  and  the  Podole.    Each 
of  the   three  towns  has  its  own  fortifications. 
The  fortress  of  Petchersk  is  called  also  the  New 
Fort :  it  is  constructed  upon  a  mountain  towards 
the  south,  and  encloses  the  barracks  of  the  gar- 
rison, the  magazines,  arsenals,  houses  of  the  offi- 
cers, and  several  churches ;  among  which  that 
of  St.  Nicholas  is  the  most  worthy  of  inspection. 
Withm  the  precincts  of  the  fortress  are  also  the 
renowned  Petcherskoi  monastery  and  catacombs; 
which  latter  can  only  be  visited  in  a  morning  by 
leave  obtained  for  that  purpose  at  the  fortress, 
and  which,  therefore,  we  were  prevented  from 
seeing;  but  they  have  been  described  minutely 
both  by  Bishop  James  and  Dr.  Lyall.     With  re- 
spect to  the  pretended  bodies  of  saints  shown  in 
them,  a  gentleman,  whom  I  met  at  Odessa,  and 


j 


W 


■^ 


* 


7 


14G 


JOURNEY    FROM 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


147 


f) 


(1 


who  had  been  favoured  with  a  sight  of  them  a 
lew  years  ago,  in  company  with  an  Enghsh  phy- 
sician,  informed  me,  that  neither  the  doctor  nor 
he  beheved  that  they  ever  had  been  the  bodies 
of  men,  but  had  been  manufactured  of  suitable 
materials,  for  the  sake  of  imposing  upon  the  ere- 
dulous  and  slavish  devotees,  who  annually  arrive ; 
in  the  course  of  their  pilgrimages,  at  Kief.   Here 
are  *also   shown,    according  to  Lyall,    a  great 
number  of  odoriferous  heads,    and  one  of  the 
children  which  was  murdered  by  Herod's  orders, 
and  brought  to  Jerusalem  !    Old  Kief  is  situated 
upon  another  height  towards  the  north :  it  is  for- 
tified in  a  manner  corresponding  to  the  moun- 
tainous  nature  of  the  ground  upon  which  it  stands, 
and   is  furnished  with  outworks.     It  contains 
eleven  churches  ;   of  which  that  of  St  Sophia, 
founded  in  1037,  is  remarkable  for  its  architec- 
tural peculiarities.     The  majority  of  the  houses 
m  Old  Kief  belong  either  to  this  church  or  to 
the  neighbouring  convent  of  St.  Michael.     The 
Podole  is  situated  in  the  plain  on  the  banks  of 
the  Dnieper,  at  the  foot  of  the  preceding  division 
of  the  town :   it  contains  numerous  churches, 
monasteries,  and  convents,  and  the  university, 
which  is  superintended  by  the  Archbishop  of 
Kief.     The  three  towns  of  which  Kief  is  com- 
posed contain  conjointly,  according  to  Vsevoloj- 
skii,  32  churches  (omitting  those  belonging  to 
the  convents  and  monasteries),  500  shops,  4000 
houses,  and  a  population  of  about  30,000  souls  : 
Dr.  Lyall,  however,  thinks  that  the  number  ot 


I 


inhabitants  in  Kief  does  not  amount  to  20,000 ; 
and,  knowing  how  little  credit  is  to  be  given  to 
Russian  authorities  of  any  kind,  I  am  inclined  to 
regard  his  opinion  as  the  most  correct :  indeed, 
I  consider  it  but  justice  to  add,  that  many  of  his 
statements,  with  regard  to  Russia  and  the  Rus- 
sians, /  know  to  be  true  ;  and  I  have  had  no  reason 
whatever  to  doubt  that  the  rest  are  equally  so. 

At  half-past  five  we  once  more  set  off,  succes- 
sively  passing  through  the  following  places,  at 
the  under-mentioned  distances;  namely,  at  twenty 
versts,  Veta,  a  village ;  sixteen,  Vasilkof,  a  small 
town  ;  twenty-eight,  Grebenskii,  a  village  ;  and 
at  sixteen  and  a  half,  Biela  Tserkof,  a  village  be- 
longing  to  the  Countess  Branitskii,  a  native  of 
Poland,  said  to  be  one  of  the  richest  ladies  in 
Russia,  possessing,  according  to  report,  80,000 
slaves,  which  may  be  calculated  to  produce  a 
revenue  of  about  80,000/.  sterling,  supposing  that 
the  obroc  or  head  tax  only  is  received  ;  but  I  was 
told  that  Her  Ladyship  prefers  exacting  the  la- 
bour of  her  serfs  instead,  and  if  so,  the  annual 
amount  may  be  rated  at  much  more.  The 
Countess  was  one  of  the  most  intimate  friends 
of  the  Empress  Catharine  the  Second ;  and  is 
described  as  being  fond  of  money,  and  as  always 
keeping  an  immense  sum,  in  specie  and  notes, 
secreted  about  various  parts  of  her  mansion. 
The  following  anecdote  was  related  to  me,  in 
exemplification  of  this  habit:—"  A  near  relative, 
having  occasion  to  borrow  a  very  large  sum  of 
money,  which  it  was  well  known  he  had  the  c^- 

L  2 


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Mi0^ 


148 


JOURNEY    FROM 


h 


\ 


portunity  of  safely  and  advantageously  investing, 
asked  her  whether  she  could  conveniently  raise, 
at  a  short  notice,  the  sum  in  question.     Upon 
which  she  replied,  after  a  pause,  that  she  thought 
it  was  in  her  power  to  do  so ;  and  giving  him,  at 
the  same  time,  a  bunch  of  keys,  desired  that  he 
would  open  some  secret  places  near  where  they 
were  seated,  and  examine  their  contents  ;  having 
done  which,  he  found  more  than  the  necessary 
amount."      This  reputation,    however,   of  pos- 
sessing  immense  quantities  of  ready  money  had 
nearly,  during  the  conspiracy  of  1825,  cost  the 

Countess  her  life ;  a  Colonel ,  as  I  was 

informed,  having  advanced  towards  Biela  Tser- 
kof,    with   his    regiment,    for  the    purpose   of 
murdering  Her  Ladyship  and  carrying  off  her 
accumulated   treasures,    being   only   prevented 
from  executing  his  diabolical  intention  by  the 
arrival  of  a  superior  military  force,  by  which  he 
was  arrested.     From   another   quarter   I   have 
heard,  that  the  Emperor,  owing  to  his  jealousy 
of  those  nobles  whose  immense  possessions  have, 
as  a  matter  of  course,  invested  them  with  corres- 
ponding  influence,  has  refused  to  allow  Her  Lady- 
ship the  acquisition  of  any  further  territorial  pro- 
perty,  which  comprises  the  peasants  resident  upon 
it ;  and  this  account,  if  correct,  will  furnish  a 
plain  reason  for  her  abundance  of  unemployed 

capital. 

We  reached  this  place  about  one  o'clock  a.m., 
having  proceeded,  during  the  last  stage,  without 
bells  to  the  poles  of  the  carriages,  which  are 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


149 


I 


. 


usual  in  Russian  posting,  that  we  might  not  dis- 
turb the  Countess,  who,  it  was  known,  had  re- 
tired to  rest.     Our  horses  for  the  last  two  days 
were  of  a  larger  kind  and  better  breed :  they 
were  small  and  bad  at  St.  Petersburg,  and  be- 
came progressively  worse  until  the  day  before 
yesterday,    when   they   were   of  so   puny   and 
wretched  a  description,  that  they  could  scarcely 
draw  the  carriages.     We  were  told  that,  as  we 
continued  our  progress  to  the  southward,  they 
would  improve  still  farther.     For  the  last  few 
days  we  observed  the  carts  of  the  natives  drawn 
by  oxen  of  a  good  size,  and  well  fed  ;  forming 
a  striking  contrast  with  those  diminutive  crea- 
tures which  we  had  seen,  from  time  to  time,  after 
our  departure  from  the  northern  capital.     We 
withdrew  to  our  places  of  repose  about  three 
o'clock;  but  here,   as  on  the  road,  no  proper 
beds  were  to  be  procured  by  myself  or  compa- 
nion.    I  had  a  bedstead,  a  mattress,  a  pillow, 
and  one  sheet,  and  the  rest  I  was  obliged  to 
supply  with  my  shoob,  my  cloaks,  or  any  thing 
else  that  appeared  at  all  eligible  for  the  purpose. 
I  was  actually,  in  some  respects,  nearly  as  badly 
accommodated  in  this  mansion  of  opulence  as  at 
many  of  the  stations  on  the  road ;  and  the  ar- 
rangements made  for  my  companion  were  upon 
the  same  scale  of  excellence.     However,  sleep 
soon  closed  our  eyes,  and  made  us  forget  the 
dissatisfaction  which  we  could  not  but  feel  at 
being  no  better  attended  to. 

Thursday,  Feb.  21st.  — After  having  break- 

L  3 


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JOURNEY   FROM 


fasted,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  the 
house,  &c.      It  is   composed   of  two   separate 
buildings  of  one  story  high,  at  right  angles  to 
each  other,  on  two  sides  of  a  court  opening  to 
the  road.     Some  of  the  rooms  are  papered,  but 
the   wood-work    throughout    is    merely  white- 
washed  :  the  kitchen  is  at  some  distance.     The 
Countess  Branitskii  occupied  one  building;  while 
Count  Vorontzof  and  suite,  with  other  visiters, 
among  whom   were   the   Count   and   Countess 
Boleslas   Pototskii,    Count   Oliza,    and    Baron 
Franck  (formerly  aide-de-camp  to  Count  Vo- 
rontzof), were  lodged  in  the  other.      Dinner 
being  announced,  we  had  to  cross  the  court  to 
reach  the  dining-room,  and  all  the  dishes  had  to 
be  carried  through  the  street  (as  we  should  say 
in  England)  befoie  reaching  the  table;   from 
which  it  will  be  seen  the  arrangements  were  by 
no  means  of  the  most  convenient  description. 
The  intendant  de  la  maison   was  here   called 
the  Marshal;  and  a  truly  pompous  fellow  we 
found  the  individual  who  held  that  office  during 
our  stay  at  Biela  Tserkof- 

Friday,  Feb.  22d.  —  Count  VorontzJof  having 
informed  me  this  morning  that  Count  Branitskii 
had  ordered  preparations  to  be  made  for  a  wolf 
hunt  to-day,  by  way  of  amusing  the  different 
visiters  sojourning  at  Biela  Tserkof,  I  felt  great 
pleasure  at  the  prospect  of  once  in  my  life 
witnessing  such  a  scene.  About  noon,  therefore. 
Counts  Branitskii  and  Oliza,  Baron  Franck,  Mr. 
and  I,  set  off  in  two  sledges  (one  of  which 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


151 


' 


had  six  horses)  to  a  small  forest  about  ten  versts 
tlistant,  where  wolves  are  usually  found.     We 
were  warmly  clad,  furnished  with  our  high  fur 
boots,  and  each  aimed  with  a  double-barrelled 
gun.     We  almost  flew  in  the  sledges,  and  after 
a  short  period  arrived  at  the  appointed  ground, 
when  boldli/  taking  our   stations  knee-deep  in 
snow,  we  made  ready  and  awaited  in  breathless 
anxiety  the  appearance   of  the   wolves;— but 
none  were  to  be  found.    It  was  supposed  that  they 
must  have  escaped  unnoticed  by  the  huntsmen 
the  previous  night  during  the  preparations  which 
were  made  for  their  detention.     After  waiting 
until  our  patience  was  exhausted,  we  retreated 
from  the  bloodless  scene  and  returned  to  Biela 
Tserkof  just  in  time  for  dinner.     But  although 
our  excursion  only  ended  in  a  hunt  for  wolves 
instead  of  the  wolf  hunt  we  had  anticipated,  and 
I  cannot  therefore  say  that  I  have  been  present 
at  the  latter,  yet  I  have  seen  all  the  preparations 
for  one ;  the  plan  upon  which  it  is  conducted, 
in  this  part  of  Russia,  being  as  follows :  —  A 
part  of  some  wood,  where  it  is  known  there  are 
wolves,  (a  fact  ascertained  by  the   huntsmen 
imitating  their  cries,  which  those  animals,  if  any 
happen  to  be  within  hearing,  answer,)  is  enclosed 
the  night  preceding  the  hunt  with  strong  rope 
nets  about  seven  feet  in  height,  supported  by 
stakes  driven  into  the  ground,  without,  if  pos- 
sible,   at   all   disturbing  the   wolves.     On   the 
following    morning    the   sportsmen   enter    this 
accompanied  by  the  huntsmen   and  dogs,,  and 

L  4 


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15^2 


JOURNEY    FROM 


placing  themselves  with  their  backs  near  and 
towards  the  netting,  in  a  semicircle  about  thirty 
feet  asunder,  present  their  pieces  in  one  direction 
to  avoid  shooting  each  other.  The  huntsmen, 
now  closely  followed  by  the  yelling  and  bark- 
ing  dogs,  ride  all  over  the  enclosed  space, 
shouting  and  blowing  short  horns;  and  their 
united  efforts  rouse  the  wolves  from  their  dens 
and  drive  them  towards  the  sportsmen,  wlio  as 
they  endeavour  to  escape  fire  at  them.  The 
charges  used  upon  the  present  occasion  con- 
tained  about  sixteen  swan-shot  in  each,  so  that  it 
is  rather  a  dangerous  amusement  to  the  parties 
concerned  unless  they  are  sufficiently  careful. 

Thursday,  Feb.  '2Sth.  —  The  fineness  of  the 
weather  induced  us  this  morning  to  drive  over 
to  Alexandria,  the  summer  residence  of  the 
Countess  Branitskii,  distant  only  a  few  versts  from 
Biela  Tserkof.  It  contains  several  detached 
buildings,  miscalled  pavilions,  situated  in  an 
extensive  garden,  which  also  contains  large 
green-houses  and  hot-houses,  with  an  extensive 
oranoery.  The  grounds  in  summer  are  said  to 
be  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  they  may  be  so 
for  Russia ;  but  at  the  time  of  our  visit  their 
winter  garb  rendered  them  cheerless  and  unin- 
teresting except  in  reference  to  a  circumstance 
which  I  shall  here  mention.  The  conspiracy 
which  broke  out  upon  the  accession  of  the 
present  Emperor  to  the  throne  of  Russia  had 
been  in  existence  for  some  time  previous  to  that 
event,  and  had  for  its  object,  it  is  said,  not  only 


I 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


15S 


the  murder  of  the  Emperor  Alexander,  but  also 
that  of  every  member  of  the  Imperial  family ; 
and  I  have  been  informed  that  the  conspirators 
being   aware   the  former  would  stop   at  Alex- 
andria during  his  journey  to  the  south  of  the 
empire,  had   actually  fixed  upon  this  place  as 
the  scene  of  his   intended  assassination.     His 
Majesty,  however,  arrived  before  their  plans  were 
quite  matured,  and  that  circumstance  alone  pre- 
vented the  consummation  of  the  horrid  project. 
I  have  also  been  informed,  during  my  residence 
in  Odessa,  by  an  individual  who  was  about  the 
person  of  the  late  autocrat,  that  the  latter  was 
perfectly  aware  as  to  conspiracies  against   his 
life  being  in  existence  ;    and  that  his  visit  of  in- 
spection to  the  southern  provinces  of  Russia  was 
planned  and  undertaken  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
affording  him  a  plausible  excuse  for  leaving  the 
capital,  as  the  most  probable  means  of  escaping 
the  impending  danger.     I  have,  moreover,  been 
assured  that  he  had  purchased  a  large  extent  of 
territory  in  the  Tauride,  where  he   had  com- 
menced  building,    with   the   intention    of  ab- 
dicating  the   throne  in  favour  of  his   brother 
Nicholas,  and  of  passing  the  remainder  of  his 
days  there  as  a  private  individual  in  retirement; 
and  that  the  painful  conviction  that,  notwith- 
standing all  he  had  done  for  Russia,  he  should 
fall  the  victim  of  assassination,  produced  such  an 
effect  upon   his  health  as  to  form  the   predis- 
posing cause  of  the  disease  which  terminated  his 
existence.     When  it  was  first  known  in  England 


154 


JOURNEY  FROM 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


155 


\\^ 


that  the  Emperor  Alexander  was  dead,  I  well  re- 
member the  sensation  excited  in  consequence, 
from  the  belief  (which  with  some  persons  has 
not  subsided  even  yet)  that  he  had  been  made 
away   with.      Nor    need  we  be   astonished   at 
such  an  inference  being  very  generally  drawn, 
when  we  recollect  the  melancholy  fact  that  both 
the  father  and  the  grandfather  of  Alexander  suf- 
fered violent  deaths ;  and  it  would  appear  that 
after  experiencing  in  anticipation  the  horrors  of 
a  similar  fate  he  only  escaped  the  sad  reality  in 
the  earlier  but  less  dreadful  close  to  his  career, 
which  was  afforded  by  the   friendly   fever   of 
which  he   died  at   Taganroc,  Sir  James  Wylie, 
his  medical  attendant,   being  with  him  at  the 
time.     I  have  heard  Sir  James  severely  censured 
in  Russia  for  having    "  let  the  Emperor  die,'* 
but  without  the  slightest  foundation  in  justice; 
since  it  is  an  acknowledged  fact,  tliat  His  Majesty 
refused  to  submit  to  the  remedial  means  recom- 
mended  by  that  gentleman  until  it  was  too  late. 
But  it  is  said  the  latter  "  ought  to  have  com- 
pelled the  Emperor"  to  do  what  was  proper 
and  necessary.     My  own  experience  of  Russia 
enables  me  to  observe  in  reply,  that  if  the  Emperor 
were  not  inclined  to  follow  the  advice  of  his 
medical  attendant,  the  latter  could  not  pretend 
to  "  comper*  him  to  do  so  :  such  a  proceeding 
might  have  been  misinterpreted  by  His  Majesty 
(particularly  under  the  then   existing   circum- 
stances^;  and  Sir  James  might  have  speedily 
found  himself  stripped  of  his  stars  and  his  crosses, 


' 


his  estates  and  his  appointments,  and  on  the 
high  road  to  Siberia  and  the  mines.  When  Count 
Vorontzof  heard  of  the  dangerous  illness  of  the 
late  Emperor,  he  immediately  sent  his  own  phy- 
sician, my  predecessor,  to  Taganroc:  but  he 
arrived  there  only  after  His  Imperial  Majesty's 
decease  ;  and,  of  course,  his  journey  was  fruit- 
less. 

Sunday,  March  3d.— Count  Vorontzof  having 
leflBielaTserkofyesterdayforMoshney,an  estate 
belonging  to  the  family,  at  no  great  distance,  with 
the  intention  of  overtaking  the  Countess  afler- 
wards  on  the  road.  Her  Ladyship  and  suite,  this 
morning  early,  recommenced  their  journey  to- 
wards Odessa.     The  weather,  at   starting,  was 
clear  and  frosty,  and  the  roads,  in  consequence, 
tolerably  good ;  an  advantage  we  had  not  an- 
ticipated,  as  the  day   preceding  a  rapid  thaw 
having  occurred,  had  led  us  to  entertain  the  most 
serious  apprehensions  respecting  their  condition. 
We  first  returned  to  Grebenskii,  from  which  place 
we  proceeded  almost  in  an  opposite  direction ; 
and  having  successively  reached  the  post-stations 
and  villages  Krasnoe,  Vincentovka,  and  Kara- 
petze,  arrived  at  Boguslaf,  a  district  town,  situ- 
ated  upon  the  river  Rossa,  where  we  dined ;  and 
when  we  were  on  the  point  of  taking  our  de- 
parture, the  master  of  police,  who  had  heard  of 
the  Countess's  arrival,  came  to  pay  his  respects 
to  Her  Ladyship.  About  five  o'clock  p.  m.  we  left 
Boguslaf,  and  at  eighteen  versts  entered  Moska- 
lenskaza,  a  small  village  ;  at  eighteen  versts  fur- 


I 


15G 


JOURNEY    FROM 


ther  another  and  larger  village,  called  Korsun, 
appeared ;  after  which,  upon  accomplishing  the 
next  station  of  twenty-one  versts  and  a  quarter, 
our  attention  was  attracted  by  Gorodetze,  a  con- 
siderable village,  the  property  of  Count  Voront- 
zof.  Each  of  these  places  have  post-stations,  at 
the  two  former  of  which  we  changed  horses ;  and 
all  the  towns  or  villages  we  have  passed  through 
to-day,  with  the  exception  of  Vincentovka  and 
Korsun,  are  the  property  of  the  Countess  Bra- 
nitskii.  We  reached  Gorodetze  about  ten  o'clock 
at  night,  and  found  every  thing  in  readiness  for 
us.  The  roads  in  the  middle  of  the  day  were 
exceedingly  bad,  occasioned  by  the  influence  of 
the  sun,  which  had,  in  some  places,  so  completely 
thawed  the  snow,  that  the  ground  appeared  in 
patches,  over  which  our  sledge-armed  carriages 
were  with  difficulty  dragged;  but  towards  the 
evening  they  again  improved  in  condition  from 
the  frost  which  prevailed  as  soon  as  the  sun  had 
vanished  beneath  the  horizon.  During  all  the 
foimer  part  of  this  day  our  journey,  from  the 
circumstance  just  mentioned,  was  of  the  most 
unpleasant  description,  so  that  we  could  not  en- 
joy the  view  of  the  country  through  which  we 
were  passing,  and  which  was  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful, often  most  picturesquely  diversified  by  ex- 
tensive hills  and  dales,  and  occasionally  enriched 
with  abundance  of  wood.  The  postilions  were 
generally  much  cleaner  and  more  comely-look- 
ing than  those  we  had  hitherto  had :  the  only 
women  we  saw  were  Jewesses,  distinguished  by 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


157 


s> 


their  white  linen  caps,  with  a  loop  of  red  riband 
or  cloth  placed  in  front.  The  produce  of  the 
neighbouring  country  is  grain.  Upon  our  ar- 
rival at  Gorodetze,  Her  Ladyship  found  a  letter 
from  the  Count,  announcing  his  intention  of 
joining  us  the  following  morning ;  and  having 
taken  tea,  we  soon  retired  to  rest,  when,  for  the 
first  time  since  we  left  St.  Petersburg,  I  had  the 
luxury  of  a  clean  bed. 

Monday,  March  4th. — Gorodetze  is  one  of 
the  prettiest  villages  I  had  yet  seen  in  Russia, 
and  seems  to  be  kept  in  good  order.  The  Count 
has  established  a  Lancasterian  school  here,  at 
which  all  who  choose  are  instructed,  gratuitously, 
in  reading  and  writing.  The  master  is  a  priest, 
who  formerly  kept  a  school  of  his  own  in  the 
church ;  his  scholars,  however,  were  but  few, 
and  he  was  very  inadequately  remunerated  for 
his  trouble :  now  the  Count  pays  him  a  salary, 
and  the  pupils  receive  their  instruction  gratis. 
His  Excellency,  also,  with  the  view  of  encourag- 
ing Jews  to  settle  in  his  village,  among  whom 
alone,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  is  industry 
found  to  any  extent,  advanced  to  every  indivi- 
dual of  that  persuasion,  who  wished  it,  five  hun- 
dred roubles,  to  build  himself  a  house  after  his 
own  fashion ;  and  several  have  availed  themselves 
of  the  loan.  His  Excellency  has  also  erected  a 
good  dwelling  for  an  apothecary,  whose  labora- 
tory  and  shop  I  was  requested  to  inspect.  The 
latter  has  but  a  poor  collection  of  medicinals, 
and  those  not  such  as  I  should  pronounce  the 


h 


inH 


158 


JOURNEY    FROM 


most  efficacious.  About  half  past  eleven  Count 
Vorontzof  arrived,  and  shortly  afterwards  I  ac- 
companied him  on  a  visit  to  the  Lancasterian 
school.  The  boys  went  through  the  usual  routine, 
to  show  the  method  adopted  in  their  tuition; 
and  after  His  Excellency  had  expressed  the  ap- 
probation which  he  felt  at  the  state  in  which  the 
school  appeared,  we  took  our  leave,  and  rejoined 
the  Countess.  About  one  o'clock  a  good  dinner 
was  served  up,  to  which  we  did  ample  justice; 
and  soon  after  three  were  once  more  upon  the 
road ;  our  number  being  now  increased  by  the 

arrival   of  Baron  Franck  and  Mr. ,    an 

English  gentleman,  who  had  been  for  some  years 
employed  upon  one  of  His  Excellency's  estates 
in  capacity  of  engineer,  but  who  has  since  entered 
into  the  Russian  diplomatic  service.  After  a 
tedious  stage  of  thirty-one  versts  we  reached  a 
large  village  named  Shpola,  the  population  of 
which  consists  almost  entirely  of  Jews ;  and  at 
a  farther  distance  of  twenty-eight  versts  and  a 
half,  Novomirgorod.  This  is  a  crown  village, 
inhabited  entirely  by  soldiers,  being  one  of  the 
military  colonies.  It  is  in  the  government  of 
Cherson ;  and  here,  therefore,  the  jurisdiction  of 
Count  Vorontzof,  as  Governor-general  of  New 
Russia,  commences:  such  being  the  pompous 
title  which  has,  of  late  years,  been  bestowed 
upon  the  territory  comprehended  in  the  govern- 
ments  of  Cherson,  Ekaterinoslaf,  and  theTauride. 
After  proceeding  thirty-one  versts  further,  we 
reached  Viska,  another  military  \dllage ;  at  twenty. 


I 


it 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


159 


four  and  a  half,  Elisavetgrad,  a  district  town ; 
at  twenty-one  and  a  half,  Kompanievka ;  and  at 
eighteen,  Souhakleia ;  the  two  latter  being  merely 
villages  and  post-stations.  We  arrived  at  Souha- 
kleia about  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  of 
Tuesday,  March  5th,  having  travelled,  nearly 
without  intermission,  during  the  whole  night 
Here  we  found  General  Leon  Narischkine,  who 
had  reached  this  place  only  a  short  time  before 
us,  and  was  also  on  his  route  to  Odessa.  From 
the  dilapidated  and  forlorn  appearance  of  the 
post-house,  and  being  ignorant  whether  the  pro- 
visions usually  contained  in  our  portable  kitchen 
had  been  all  consumed  or  not,  I  was  for  some 
time  in  doubt  if  we  should  be  able  to  procure 
any  kind  of  refreshment  at  this  place,  and  re- 
mained seated  in  the  carriage,  until  1  received  a 
summons  announcing  breakfast  to  be  ready.  I 
then  joined  the  distinguished  party  in  the  post- 
house,  and  partook  of  the  repast  provided ;  which 
the  disgustingly  filthy  state  of  the  articles  we  were 
compelled  to  employ  would  have  prevented  tra- 
vellers with  appetites  less  keen  than  our  own 
from  tasting.  Such  being  the  accommodations 
which  Souhakleia  afforded,  we  felt  no  desire  to 
remain  there  any  longer  than  was  absolutely  ne- 
cessary, and  accordingly,  as  soon  as  the  horses 
were  in  readiness,  we  regained  our  carriages, 
and  recommenced  our  journey.  A  cold  and 
miserable  stage  of  eighteen  versts  brought  us  to 
Gromokleievskaia,  and  a  second,  of  sixteen  and  a 
half,  to  Maximovka.     This  was  another  deplor- 


I 


160 


JOURNEY    FROM 


able  post-station,  the  best  room  of  which  was 
about  nine  feet  square,  the  floor  the  earth,  the 
walls  plastered  inside  with  clay  and  very  damp, 
while  on  either  side  appeared  a  miserable  pallet ; 
the  tout  ensemble  presentinj]^  a  picture  of  abject 
poverty,  wretchedness,  and  filth.  However,  in 
this  cheerless  cabin  we  made  a  tolerably  good 
dinner  upon  some  dishes  prepared  by  our  own 
cook  from  materials  brought  with  us,  and  consi- 
dered  ourselves  exceedingly  lucky  in  being  so 
well  supplied ;  for  had  we  not  carried  provisions 
with  us,  we  certainly  should  have  met  with  no- 
thing here  better  than  black  bread,  and  I  have 
every  reason  for  believing  not  even  that.  It  was 
now  announced  that  Baron  Franck,    who   liad 

travelled  with  Mr. in  advance,  for  the 

purpose  of  acting  as  courier  and  ordering  relays 
of  horses  for  us,  and  was,  consequently,  in  charge 
of  the  padaroshna,  had  unfortunately  lost  it  upon 
the  road.  Had  this  accident  happened  yester- 
day, instead  of  to-day,  it  would  have  placed  us 
in  a  most  awkward  predicament,  as  without  a 
padaroshna  no  post-horses  can  be  obtained,  and 
we  must  have  stopped  where  we  were  until  a  new 
one  could  have  been  procured  from  the  governor 
of  the  nearest  town;  which  would  have  occa- 
sioned much  delay  and  inconvenience,  and  might 
have  compelled  us,  in  spite  of  the  disbelief  of  the 
author  of  "  St.  Petersburg,"  to  "  lie  without  a 
bed,  starve  on  black  bread,  and  swarm  with 
vermin  ;"  but  as  Count  Vorontzof  was  now 
within  the  limits  of  his  own  government,  he  was 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


161 


fortunately  enabled  to  obviate  all  these  annoy- 
ances by  ordering  horses  himself.  We  reached 
this  place  about  noon,  having  had  a  terrible 
journey  during  the  whole  of  the  morning.  The 
snow  and  ice  we  had  found  nearly  all  thawed, 
and  the  roads  occasionally  reduced  to  mud ;  in 
consequence  of  which  our  progress  was  fre- 
quently arrested.  Where  there  was  a  good  deal 
of  water  we  could  still  glide  through  it,  though 
at  the  expense  of  great  exertion  on  the  part  of 
the  horses ;  but  where  the  mud  was  stiffj  we 
were  often  brought  to  a  dead  halt,  and  the  car- 
riages could  not  be  afterwards  moved  without 
the  greatest  difficulty.  With  respect  to  the  ca- 
lash, Mr.  S and  I  were  frequently  obliged  to 

alight,  and  literally  put  our  "  shoulders  to  the 
wheel,"  while  the  postilions  whipped  the  horses, 
and  urged  them  to  the  utmost :  in  fact,  the  use 
of  the  sledges  had  been  continued  much  too 
long ;  and  of  this  the  Count  at  length  became 
convinced,  and  accordingly  ordered  that  the 
wheels  should  now  be  substituted  for  the  sledge 
beds.  The  former  had  always  travelled  in  ad^ 
vance  of  us,  on  the  sledge  of  our  courier,  who, 
finding  the  roads  in  the  miserable  condition  I 
have  described,  and  which  he  imagined  would 
render  it  impossible  to  proceed  without  them, 
had  prudently  remained  here  until  our  arrival, 
instead  of  carrying  them  on  to  another  station. 
Some  peasants  were  immediately  sent  for  to  re- 
move the  sledge-beds,  and  mount  the  carriages 
upon  their  wheels.     As  this,  however,  would  be 

M 


162 


JOURNEY    FROM 


I 


the  work  of  some  hours,  His  Excellency  did  not 
choose  to  wait  even  for  his  own  carriage  being 
prepared,  but  determined  upon  setting  off,  with 
the  Countess  and  the  governess,  in  two  small 
kibitkas  which  had  formed  part  of  our  train  from 
St  Petersburg ;  under  the  idea  that  it  was  pos- 
sible for  the  latter,  being  light,  to  be  forced 
through  the  mud,  though  the  heavy  carriages  in 
their  present  condition  could  not ;  and  in  pur- 
suance of  this  resolution  at  about  three  o'clock 
their    Excellencies    left   Maximovka  with   five 

horses  to  each  kibitka;  Mr. ,  furnished  with 

a  written  order  to  the  postmasters,  in  lieu  of 
the  lost  padaroshna,  having  previously  started 
in  a  telega,  or  light  post-waggon,  to  act  as 
courier,  and  have  relays  of  horses  in  readiness  for 
them  at  the  different  post-stations.  After  their 
departure  we  occupied  ourselves  in  hurrying  on 
the  operations  of  our  lazy  workmen,  and  by 
about  six  o'clock,  the  various  arrangements  being 
completed,  we  also  set  off.  The  roads  were  soon 
found  to  be  worse  than  they  had  been  in  the 
morning,  indeed  it  would  have  been  impossible 
for  us  to  proceed  as  before  equipped ;  and  even 
now  our  progress  was  but  slow,  the  wheels  being 
scarcely  able  to  act.  Shortly  after,  it  became 
dark,  and  this  added  considerably  to  our  diffi- 
culties. The  Count's  chariot  with  Her  Lady- 
ship's maid,  as  well  as  a  kibitka  in  which  were 
two  other  female  servants,  had  been  despatched 
some  time  in  advance :  Baron  Franck  followed 
in  another  carriage  j  the  calash  which  contained 


■i'-iii^w 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TQ    ODESSA. 


163 


Mr.  S' and  myself  closing  the  rear.     We 

had  not,  however,  accomplished  more  than  twelve 
versts  when  we  found  the  chariot  completely  stuck 
fastinmud,  the  horses  being  unable  to  move  it;  the 
kibitka  so  broken  as  to  be  utterly  unserviceable  • 
and  the  women  frightened  in  the  extreme  at  the 
thoughts  of  being  left  alone  on  the  road,  while 
some  other  conveyance  could  be  procured.  We, 
therefore,  determined  upon  taking  them  into  our 
own  calash,  and  to  get  on  the  outside  ourselves- 

Mr.  S accordingly  occupying  a  seat  in  fronts 

and  I  mounting  behind  upon  the  luggage,  we 
once  more  set  off  for  the   next  station;   pro- 
posing from  thence  to  send  further  assistance  to 
the  Count's  valet,  who  was  left  in  charge  of  the 
chariot     We  had  eight  dismal  versts  to  travel 
before  arriving  there,   the   road  passing  over 
several  hills  :  it  was  intensely  cold ;  and  a  thick 
damp  which  rose  from  the  ground  soon  made 
my  clothes  completely  wet,  as  the  necessity  of 
holding  constantiy  with  both  hands,   to  avoid 
being  jerked  off,  rendered  me  unable  to  cover 
myself  with  my  shoob.     I  certainly  feared  at 
the  time  that  a  serious  illness  would  have  been 
tile  consequence  of  this  exposure^   but  fortui 
natdy  I  experienced    no  ill  effects  whatever 
from  it.      At   about   eleven  o'clock  p.m.  we 
reached  the  post-station  Vodianoe;  Mr.S--^/ 
however,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  better  acn 
commodations,  directed  the  postilions  to  drive  to 

the  house  of  a  Madame  Laurer,  which  was  nea^ 
athaiid^ 


:*   l-:j 


164 


JOURNEY   FROM 


I 


Being  exceedingly  fatigued  on  our  arrival, 
and  finding  it  doubtful  whether  there  would  be 
sufficient  accommodations,  I  left  the  house  at 
once  and  returned  to  the  calash,  in  which, 
wrapping  myself  round  with  my  shoob,  I  slept 
until  morning;  though  necessarily  in  a  most 
awkward  position,  being  unable  to  extend  my 
legs,  owing  to  the  luggage  which  was  stowed 
within.  The  cold  must  have  been  several  de- 
grees below  zero ;  and  to  render  my  situation 
more  uncomfortable,  a  pane  of  glass  belonging 
to  the  movable  window  in  front  had  been  acci- 
dentally broken  the  day  before,  yet  I  sustained 
no  injury  from  passing  the  night  in  this  manner; 
so  often  does  it  happen  that  when  most  ex- 
posed we  suffer  the  least ;  indeed  my  slumbers 

were   only   terminated  by  Mr.  S ,   on  the 

following  morning,  (Wednesday,  March  6th,) 
coming  to  say  that  the  horses  had  been  sent  for, 
and  breakfast  awaited  us  within  doors.  I  now 
learned  that  the  chariot  had  only  just  arrived, 
having  remained  on  the  road  where  we  left  it 
for  a  long  time;  the  horses,  including  an  extra 
pair  sent  from  this  station,  eight  in  number, 
being  unable  to  move  it.  While  they  were 
thus  fruitlessly  employed,  a  caravan  happening 
to  arrive  on  the  spot,  five  pairs  of  oxen  belonging 
to  it  were  yoked  to  the  carriage,  which  they 
succeeded  in  drawing  out  of  the  deep  hole 
wherein  it  had  sunk.  Having  breakfasted  at  about 
half  past  five  we  continued  our  route.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  intense  cold  which  had  pre- 


•I  r ■■   ■     ■; 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO   ODESSA. 


165 


vailed  all  night,  the  roads,  so  recently  covered 
with  mud,  were  now  frozen  hard ;  and  although 
this   circumstance  rendered  them   exceedingly 
rough  and  uneven,  yet  their  condition  was,  upon 
the  whole,  improved,  and  our  progress  facilitated 
by  the  change.     Having  travelled  twenty-three 
versts,  on  reaching  Veylandova,  a  post-station, 
we  made   an   early   lunch;    some  good   bread 
was  procured  at  the  post-house,  and  cheese  we 
had  with  us,  which,  added  to  part  of  a  bottle  of 
sherry  found  in  one  of  the  carriages,  afforded  an 
agreeable  repast.     Here  we  changed  horses,  and 
after  another  difficult  stage  of  twenty-f bur  versts 
arrived   at  Kandybina.      This  is    nothing  but 
a  miserable  post-station,  where   we  found  the 
Count  and  Countess  stopped  the  preceding  night; 
they,  like  us,  not  thinking  it  prudent  to  risk 
setting  off  again  until  the  following  dawn.     The 
room  which  their  Excellencies  had  occupied  was 
scarcely  habitable.    It  was  but  very  imperfectly 
warmed; — the    thawed   snow   found   its   way 
through  the  roof,  and  fell  upon  the  middle  of 
the  floor ;  while  the  only  furniture  consisted  of 
a^  long  dirty  divan,  upon  which  the  Count  and 
Countess,    the  governess,    and  General   Leon 
Narischkine  (who  happened  also  to  stay  here), 
reclined  until  morning.     Relying  upon  their  ar^ 
rival  at  Nikolaief  without  delay,  they  had  brought 
no  provisions  with  them,  nor  could  any  be  ob- 
tained at  this  place;  and  accordingly  they  left 
the  comfortless  hovel  when  morning  appeared, 
without  having  partaken   of  any  refreshment 

M  S 


166 


JOURNEY    FROM 


II 


^1'. 


whatever  from  the  preceding  day  at  dinner; 
Such  privations  and  inconveniences  being  ex- 
perienced even  by  the  Governor  General  of 
New  Russia  and  his  lady,  when  journeying 
through  his  own  governments,  it  will,  perhaps, 
be  believed  that  travellers  of  inferior  rank  and 
note  are  not  exempt  from  hardships  at  least  as 
serious  and  as  numerous ;  and,  consequently,  that 
Clarke,  Lyall,  and  other  "  Efiglish'*  writers^ 
while  favouring  us  with  an  account  of  their 
travels  in  Russia,  have  neither  exaggerated  nor 
misrepresented  those  hardships,  as  a  recent 
author  would  willingly  have  it  supposed. 

We  stopped  at  this  station  about  a  couple  of 
hours  from  want  of  horses ;  indeed  we  had  to 
wait  until  the  arrival  of  some,  which  were  sent 
by  the  Count  expressly  for  us :  the  chariot  had 
not  yet  made  its  appearance ;  but  as  I  considered 
it  my  duty  as  soon  as  possible  to  overtake  the 
Countess,  who,  from  the  statements  received 
here,  I  apprehended  might  be  again  indisposed^ 
the  horses  were  immediately  put  to  the  calash, 
in  which  Baron  Franck  and  I  set  off,  leaving 
Mr.  S  to   wait  for  the  chariot.     A   single 

stage  only,  of  twenty-four  versts,  remained  for 
us  to  perform  before  reaching  Nikolaief,  the  longr 
wished-for  resting-place  ;  but  the  roads  were  so 
exceedingly  heavy  that  we  did  not  enjoy  that 
gratification  till  between  six  and  seven  in  the 
evening,  when  upon  entering  the  mansion  of 
Admiral  Greig,  whither  the  postilions  had  beea 
ordered  to  proceed,  we  found  that  the  Count 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


167 


and   Countess   were  also   there,  having   safely 
arrived  some  hours  previously.     We  were   re- 
ceived by  Captain  Romanzof,  one  of  the  Ad- 
miral's aides-de-camp,  an  intelligent  and  agreeable 
young  officer,  from  whom  we  experienced  every 
friendly  attention  during  our  stay  at  Nikolaief; 
and  shortly  afterwards  dinner  was  served  up. 
The  Admiral  on  ascertaining  that  we  had  finished 
this  repast  sent  a  most  polite  message,  desiring 
our  presence  above,  where  we  shortly  afterwards 
had  the  honour  of  being  introduced  to  him,  and 
of  passing  the   evening  in   his  society.     This^ 
was  a  pleasure  I  had  for  some  time  eagerly  an- 
ticipated, from  the  very  high  encomiums  uni- 
formly  passed  upon  Admiral  Greig,  in  various 
circles,  during  my  stay  at  St.  Petersburg ;  and 
from  his  general  reputation  for  talents,  liberality, 
and  condescension.      My  interview  with   His 
Excellency  convinced  me  that  report  had  not 
spoken  too  favourably :  I  found  him  to  possess 
manners  the  most  courteous,  and  a  mind  stored 
with  information,  even  upon  subjects  in  no  way 
connected  with  his  profession.     He  is  Admiral- 
in-Chief  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  is  considered  a 
most  able  and  experienced  officer.     But  if  Ad- 
miral Greig  be   an   ornament  to  the  Imperial 
naval  service,  the  credit,  it  is  well  known,  does 
not  belong  to  Russia;  he  did   not  derive  his 
information  from  Russians,  nor  his  experience 
from  a  three  months*  cruise  in  the  Baltic   or 
the  Black  Sea.     He  is  still  a  British  subject^ 
was  born  of  English  parents  at  Cronstadt*  and 

M    4f 


\ 


168 


JOURN£Y    FKOM 


educated  in  England.     "  He  afterwards  went  to 
the  East  Indies  as  a  volunteer  in  the  Company's 
service,  and  in  the  same  capacity  served  in  the 
British  navy,  so  as  to  acquire  a  thorough  know- 
ledge of  navigation,  and  the  duties  of  a  naval 
officer.**     His  professional  knowledge  is  there- 
fore, 1  need  hardly  observe,  derived  from  Eng- 
land,  and  his  liberal   sentiments,  it  cannot  be 
doubted,  were  drawn  from  the  same  source  ;  for 
had  he  been  brought  up  in  Russia,  at  a  distance 
from  his  parents,  he  never  could  have  imbibed 
them.     In  fact.    Admiral   Greig   is  a   striking 
instance  of  what  almost  universally  holds  true  in 
Russia ;  namely,  that  when  the  duties  of  an  im- 
portant office  are  ably  and  conscientiously  dis- 
charged, the  reason  for  conduct  so  creditable 
and  so  extraordinary  in  that  country  is  to  be 
found  in  the  appointment  being  held  either  by  a 
foreigner,   or  by  one  of  foreign  extraction,  and 
very  frequently  by  an  Englishman.     The  above 
well-merited  but  imperfect  tribute  to  the  high 
character  of  the  most  distinguished  resident  in 
Nikolaief  being  paid,  some  observations  upon  the 
town   itself  may  not  be   misplaced.     Nikolaief 
is  situated  in  a  fertile  plain  at  the  confluence  of 
the  rivers   Ingoul  and  Boug.     Its  first  found- 
ations were  laid  in  1791.     In  1792  it  received 
the  particular  attention  of  Prince  Potyemkin, 
and  in  con?equence  450  houses  were  speedily 
raised.     Scarcely  any  additions   were  made  to 
these  in  the  following  year ;  but  by  the  end  of 
1791i  their  number  had  increased   under  the 


ST.  PETERSBURG    TO    ODESSA. 


169 


auspices  of  Admiral  Mordvinof  to  700;  and 
about  the  same  time,  also,  Nikolaief  was  materially 
raised  in  importance  by  the  admiralty  of  Cher- 
son  being  removed  thither.  It  is  divided  into 
quarters,  and  the  streets  are  regularly  laid  out. 
The  buildings  most  worthy  of  notice  are,  the 
church,  a  handsome  structure  ;  the  Town  Hall, 
which  has  a  neat  colonnade  on  each  side,  one 
of  them  serving  for  the  Exchange ;  and  the 
Admiralty,  situated  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
town,  upon  the  Ingoul,  forming  a  large  enclosed 
square.  Nikolaief  has  two  very  great  disad- 
vantages ;  the  first  being  the  absence  of  good 
water,  for  which  indispensable  article  the  inha- 
bitants are  obliged  to  send  a  distance  of  two 
versts  from  the  town  ;  and  the  other  arises  from 
the  scarcity,  and  consequently  the  high  price  of 
fuel,  hardly  a  tree  appearing  in  all  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

Thursday,  March  7th. — About  half-past  seven 
this  morning  we  sat  down  to  an  excellent  break- 
fast in  the  English  fashion,  and  about  nine  o'clock 
took  leave  of  Admiral  Greig,  and  proceeded  on 
our  journey.  Our  train,  which  presented  a 
curious  melange,  was  as  follows:  first,  two 
mounted  gendarmes  as  a  guard  of  honour;  these 
were  followed  by  the  Count  and  Countess  in  an 
open  calash  of  Admiral  Greig*s,  drawn  by  four 
horses ;  another  open  calash  and  four,  containing 
the  governess  and  the  Countess's  maid  next  ap- 
peared ;  then  came  the  secretary  and  the  physi- 
cian  in  a  droshki ;  and,  finally,  in  a  similar  vehi- 


I 

I 


170 


JOURNEY    FROM 


cle,  two  female  servants: — thus  arranged,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Boug,  a  distance  of  five  versts ;  and 
I  have  often  since  amused  my  self  with  imagining 
the  amazement  such  a  cavalcade  would  liave 
produced  in  London.  Fears  had  been  enter- 
tained as  to  the  practicabiHty  of  passing  this 
river,  which  at  the  point  where  we  proposed  to 
cross  is  of  great  width;  and  the  Admiral's  aide-de- 
camp expressed  his  positive  opinion  that  it  would 
be  impossible  to  do  so  two  days  from  that  time^ 
in  consequence  of  a  rapid  thaw  having  taken 
place.  Owing  to  these  doubts.  Count  Voront- 
zofs  carriages  had  all  been  sent  soon  after  our 
arrival  at  Nikolaief  to  the  river's  side ;  but  the 
state  of  the  ice  was  such,  that  it  was  not  then 
deemed  advisable  to  attempt  taking  them  over ; 
more  particularly  as  the  frost  had  again  returned 
with  the  evening,  and  thus  afforded  the  prospect 
of  a  safer  passage  at  the  expiration  of  a  few  hours' 
delay.  The  carriages  were  therefore  left  on  the 
bank  of  the  Boug,  during  the  night,  under  a 
guard,  and  early  in  the  morning,  the  ice  being 
still  too  weak  to  allow  the  employment  of  horses, 
were  dragged  over  by  men  with  ropes,  all  arriv- 
ing safely  on  the  opposite  side.  Only  two  days 
previously,  while  a  postilion  was  crossing  the 
river  near  this  place,  in  a  paraclodnia  (a  kind  of 
rude  cart  in  which  the  Russians  travel),  with 
three  horses,  the  ice  gave  way,  when  himself 
and  the  horses  disappeared,  and  were  drowned. 
This  was  mentioned  just  upon  our  reaching  the 
Boug  ;  and  the  intelligence,  whether  well-timed 


ST.  PETERSBURG  TO    ODESSA. 


171 


or  ill-timed,  was  certainly  at  that  moment  not 
the  most  agreeable. 

Having  proceeded  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  we 
left  the  carriages,  and  various  necessary  prepar- 
ations being  completed,  first  the  Countess,  placed 
in  a  sledge  to  which  ropes  were  attached,  was 
drawn  over  the  ice  by  men  in  perfect  safety; 
next  the  other  females  of  our  party  followed  in 
a  similar  manner;  then  Count  Vorontzof;  Mr. 

S ,  and  I  walked  across.    The  ice  cracked  fre- 

quently  under  us,  and  was  so  very  rotten  that  our 
feet  repeatedly  penetrated  some  depth  into  it ; 
however  we  gained  the  other  side  without  the 
slightest  accident,  and  now  congratulated  our- 
selves on  having  passed  one  of  the  greatest  ob- 
stacles to  our  speedily  reaching  Odessa.     Baron 

Franck  and  Mr. had  been  obliged  to  re^ 

main  at  the  Admiral's  for  want  of  horses.  Upon 
reaching  the  post-house  at  Korinikha,  a  village 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Boug,  we  found  our 
own  travelling  carriages  in  waiting,  and  should 
at  once  have  set  off,  but  the  cook  had  not  yet 
arrived ;  and  as  our  comforts  during  the  journey 
depended  too  materially  upon  his  presence  to 
admit  for  a  moment  the  thought  of  leaving  him 
behind,  (a  fact,  by-the-bye,  of  which  theindivi- 
dual  in  question,  a  Frenchman,  proved  upon 
more  than  one  occasion  that  he  was  perfectly 
aware,)  we  were  thus  delayed  for  about  half  an 
hour,  when  he  made  his  appearance.  From  this 
place,  after  an  uninterrupted  journey  of  twenty- 
seven  versts,  we  reached  Jantschokrak,  a  posti 


il 


172 


JOURNEY  FROM 


ST.  PETERSBURG  TO  ODESSA. 


173 


station,  where  we  changed  horses :  from  hence, 
to  the  next  station,  Sassitskaya,  where  we  also 
changed  horses,  is  a  distance  of  twenty-two  versts. 
This  is  merely  a  miserable  post-station,  not  to  be 
found  in  the  grand  map  of  Russia,  published  by 
the  Etat  Major  at  St.  Petersburg.  Here,  on  ob- 
serving by  the  road-side  a  heap  of  small  stones 
upon  which  was  placed  a  curiously  shaped  double 
cross,  I  requested  my  companion  to  enquire  on 
what  occasion  this  simple  memorial  had  been 
erected,  when  he  was  informed  that  its  object 
was  to  distinguish  the  spot  where  a  man  had 
been  buried,  who  died  of  the  plague  in  the 
year  1812.  After  leaving  Sassitskaya  the  roads 
were  in  the  worst  possible  condition :  mud,  water, 
ice  with  large  and  deep  fissures  in  it,  and  loose 
stones,  combined  in  rendering  our  progress  diffi- 
cult, and  by  no  means  unattended  with  danger ; 
and  during  the  ascent  and  descent  of  three  large, 
hills,  which  presented  themselves,  very  mal  d 
propoSj  in  this  part  of  our  journey,  I  own  I  felt 
considerable  anxiety  as  to  the  result.  Having 
passed  these  hills,  we  had  other  and  scarcely  less 
important  obstacles  to  encounter,  occasioned  by 
the  unevenness  of  the  country,  and  the  season  at 
which  we  travelled.  Down  the  valleys,  directly 
across  our  road,  rushed  swollen  and  rapid  torrents, 
formed  by  the  melted  snow  from  the  surrounding 
heights,  in  many  places  reaching  up  to  the  horses* 
bellies ;  and  several  instances  even  occurred 
where  the  water  had  risen  a  foot  or  two  above 
the  bridges  and  was  pouring  over  their  walls. 


The  situation  of  travellers,  under  such  circum- 
stances,  is,  of  course,  hazardous  in  the  extreme  ; 
for  should  a  carriage,  during  its  passage  through 
these  torrents,  by  any  accident  be  overturned,  it 
is  immediately  borne  away  by  the  stream,  and  the 
chance  of  escaping  a  watery  grave  is  slight  in- 
deed.     One   of  the  most   celebrated   Russian 
generals  lost  his  life  in  this  way ;  and  only  the 
spring  before  we  passed  these  valleys  the  telega, 
in  which  were  two  men  conveying  the  post,  was 
upset  and  hurled  down  the  torrent :  one  of  them 
escaped  miraculously,  but  his  less  fortunate  com- 
panion,with  the  horses,  was  drowned,  and  neither 
they  nor  the  mails  were  afterwards  seen.     It  is 
indeed  most  dangerous  to  travel  at  the  breaking 
up   of  the  frost,   but  by  personal   experience 
alone  can  any  adequate  idea  on  the  subject  be 
acquired.     Even  when  at  length  the  ground  be- 
came  tolerably  level,  the  roads  were,  for  a  distance 
of  two  versts,  at  least  a  foot  under  water.   Having 
however  toiled  through  twenty-two  versts,  we 
reached  Coblif  ka,  a  village  belonging  to  General 
Cobley,  an  Englishman,  who  has  been  for  many 
years  in  the  Russian  service.     The  General  was 
then  in  another  part  of  the  country ;  nevertheless 
we  passed  the  night  at  his  house,  arriving  there 
about  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  having  tra- 
velled only  three  stages  during  the  day ;  a  fact 
in  itself  sufficiently  proving  the  terrible  state  of 
the  roads.  A  good  dinner  was  soon  ready  for  us, 
of  which  we  were  in  considerable  need ;  and  at 
an  early  hour  we  retired  to  bed,  heartily  tired 
and  worn  out. 


1 


'A 


174   JOURNEY  FROM  ST.  PETERSBURG,  ETC, 


Friday,  March  8th. — Notwithstanding  the 
fatigues  of  yesterday  we  were  up  this  morning 
about  half  past  five,  and  having  breakfasted,  set 
oflf  again  before  six.  The  roads  were  of  the  same 
description  as  yesterday ;  and  in  many  of  the 
valleys  I  preferred  passing  on  foot  through  the 
water  to  incurring  the  risk  of  being  overturned 
in  the  calash,  which,  from  the  dreadful  holes  in 
the  half-melted  ice,  appeared,  upon  these  occa- 
sions, to  be  every  minute  inevitable.     Mr.  S 

followed  my  example ;  and  notwithstanding  the 
danger  of  the  experiment  (for  it  was  sometimes 
extremely  difficult  to  preserve  our  footing),  neither 
of  us  could  refrain  from  repeated  laughter  at  the 
grotesque  appearance  the  other  presented  while 
wading  in  our  great  fur  boots  through  the  flood. 
At  twenty-eight  versts  we  reached  Dophinovka, 
a  post-station  merely;  and  here  we  first  got  a 
sight  of  the  Black  Sea.  After  changing  horses, 
and  travelling  eighteen  versts  further,  the  much 
desired  Odessa  at  length  appeared. 

About  a  verst  from  the  town,  the  master  of 
the  police,  attended  by  his  Kozak,  was  in  waiting, 
who,  stopping  the  Count's  carriage,  handed  to 
His  Excellency,  as  Governor  General,  the  police 
report ;  he  then  rode  on  in  front  of  our  train  ; 
and  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  afterwards,  nearly 
jolted  to  death  from  the  miserable  state  of  the 
roads  in  the  suburbs  of  the  town,  we  completed 
this  long  and  fatiguing  journey,  in  which  above 
two  thousand  post-horses  had  been  employed,  by 
^riving  safely  at  the  mansion  of  the  Governor 
General. 


175 


CHAP.  IV. 


RISE,  PROGRESS,  AND  PRESENT  STATE  OF  ODESSA. 


ANCIENT   HISTORY.  SCYTHIANS. GREEKS.  EXISTENCE 

OF  A  GREEK  ESTABLISHMENT.  —  TURKS. HADGIBEY 

TAKING  OF  HADGIBEY.  — MODERN  HISTORY. FOUND- 
ATION    OF     ODESSA.   NOT     THE     SITE    OP     ODESSUS.  

SLOW  PROGRESS  OF  THE  TOWN.  —  EMPEROR  PAUL  BE- 
STOWS HIS  FAVOURS  UPON  IT.  —  ROGUERY  OF  THE 
PUBLIC   OFFICERS.  —  ARRIVAL    OF    THE   DUKE   DE   RICHE. 

LIEU    AT     ODESSA.  PROGRESS    0»    ODESSA    FROM    1803 

TO    1814 DEPARTURE     OF     THE     DUKE     DE    RICHELIEU- 

APPOINTMENT     OF     COUNT    LANGERON    AS    GOVERNOR 

GENERAL.  FAITHLESS  POLICY  OF  THE  RUSSIAN  GO- 
VERNMENT. —  LANGUISHING    CONDITION    OF    ODESSA    IN 

CONSEQUENCE.  NOMINATION     OF     COUNT     MICHEL     VO- 

RONTZOF     AS    GOVERNOR    GENERAL PARTICULAR     DE- 

SCRIPTIOM    OF    ODESSA HOSPITAL.  CATHEDRAL 

STRADE.    CHERSONA.    RIBAS.    RICHELIEU.    

THEATRE.  NEW   BOULEVARD. GOVERNOR    GENERAL*S 

mew  HOUSE—  MINUTE  DESCRIPTION  OF. CRITIQUE  UPON. 

MATERIALS      SUPPLIED     BY    THE     MICHATLOF    PALACE 

OF    ST.    PETERSBURG.  —  INFAMOUS   ROGUERY   OP    PUBLIC 

OFFICERS    IN    THE   FORMATION  OF  THE  ROADS. PLAGUE. 

DUST.  —  HEAT.  —  LETTER  FROM  ADMIRAL  MORDVINOF 
TO  THE  PRESENT  EMPEROR.  — -  ROGUERY  OF  ALL  EM- 
PLOYES.— REASONS  WHY  SO  LITTLE  IMPROVEMENT  TAKES 
PLACE  IN  RUSSIA.  —  CLIMATE  OF  ODESSA  FROM  THE  OB- 
SERVATIONS  OF    A    SERIES    OF    YEARS.  POPULATION    OF 

ODESSA     FROM     OFFICIAL     RETURNS GOVERNMENT     OF 

ODESSA MAGISTRATES POLICE. GENDARMERIE. 

REVENUES   OF    THE   TOWN. PUBLIC  ESTABLISHMENTS; 

ESTABLISHMENTS   CONNECTED   WITH  COMMERCE. —  PORTS 


176 


RISE,    f>ROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE   OF    ODESSA. 


177 


OF  ODESSA:  —  QUARANTINE  PORT  —  MILITARY  PORT. 
OFFICIAL  DETAILS.  —  LIST  OF  IMPORTATIONS  IN  1828. 
LIST  OF  EXPORTATIONS  IN  1828. FIRST  EMPLOY- 
MENT OF  STEAM-VESSELS  IN  THE  BLACK  SEA.  —  STEAM- 
BOAT OF  ODESSA  — A  FAILURE.  —  QUARANTINE,  PAR- 
TICULAR DESCRIPTION  OF. —  BOARD  OF  HEALTH.  — CUS- 
TOM-HOUSE.—AMOUNT     OF     DUTIES     FOR     A     SERIES    OF 

YEARS CLASSES   OF    MERCHANTS.— THE  EXCHANGE. 

THE     NEW      EXCHANGE TRIBUNAL     OF     COMMERCE.  — 

DEPUTATION   OF    COMMERCE BROKERS. BANK  OF  EX- 
CHANGE.—DISCOUNT  BANK.  — CHAMBERS  OF  INSURANCE. 

—  IMPERIAL  CHAMBER  OF  INSURANCE.  —  GRECO-RUSSIAN 
CHAMBER    OF    INSURANCE.  —  FIRE    INSURANCE    COMPANY. 

—  PROPOSED  DUTCH  FACTORY    AT    ODESSA    TO    TRADE    TO 
INDIA     OVER-LAND.   —    DESIGNS     OF     RUSSIA     UPON     OUR 
INDIAN      POSSESSIONS.   —    ESTABLISHMENTS     CONNECTED 
WITH    THE    GOVERNMENT.  —  FORTRESS.  —  GARRISON. 
BARRACKS.  —  PRISON.  —  POLICE     OFFICE.  —  COMMITTEE 
OF     HEALTH.  —  POST     OFFICE.  —  ESTABLISHMENTS    CON- 
NECTED    WITH      RELIGION.  —  CATHEDRAL.  —  CATHOLIC 
CHURCH.— GREEK     CHURCH.  —  RASCOLNIC's    CHURCH.— 
JEWS*    SYNAGOGUE.— GREEK     BURYING    GROUND.  —  JEWs' 
BURYING    GROUND.  —  PLAGUE   BURYING   GROUND.— CHA- 
RITABLE   ESTABLISHMENTS.— TOWN    HOSPITAL.  —  BENE- 
VOLENT    SOCIETY     OF     THE    LADIES     OF     NEW     RUSSIA. 

SOCIETY  OF  PRISON  DISCIPLINE.  —  SCIENTIFIC  ESTABLISH- 
MENTS. —  MUSEUM.  —  IMPERIAL  AGRICULTURAL  ES- 
TABLISHMENT.  AGRICULTURAL  SOCIETY   OE   SOUTHERN 

RUSSIA.  —  ESTABLISHMENT  FOR  THE  PREPARATION  OF 
MINERAL  WATERS.  — ESTABLISHMENTS  FOR  EDUCATION. 
—  LYCEUM  OF  RICHELIEU.  —  INSTITUTE  FOR  NOBLE 
YOUNG  LADIES.  —  NEW  SCHOOL  FOR  ORIENTAL  LAN- 
GUAGES (PROBABLY  CONNECTED  WITH  DESIGNS  OF  FU- 
TURE conquests). —  ESTABLISHMENTS  FOR  RECREATION. 

PUBLIC  GARDEN THEATRE.— CLUB.— ASSEMBLY  ROOM. 

NEW  RESOURCE.  —  ENGLISH    CLUB.  —  HOTELS.  —  RACE 

COURSE.  —  BATHING    HOUSES.  —  LITERATURE. ODESSA 

JOURNAL.  —  STATE     OF     LITERATURE    AND     THE     FINE 
ARTS.  —  AGRICULTURE.  —  ENGLISH     SHEEP    IMPORTED 


INTO  ODESSA. —  GENERAL  NOTICE  OF  VINEYARDS  AT 
ODESSA,    FROM     ITS     FOUNDATION     UNTIL     THE     PRESENT 

TIME.  MARKETS.  ARTICLES      OF     CONSUMPTION.  

RENTS.  —  FUEL.  —  NATIVE  COAL  BROUGHT  FOR  THE 
FIRST  TIME  TO  ODESSA.  —  OBJECTS  OF  LUXURY. —  COU- 
TAS   OR   COUNTRY   HOUSES. 

ODESSA. 

J/HE  most  ancient  inhabitants  of  the  country  in 
which  the  present  town  of  Odessa  is  situated  were 
a  savage  nation,  known  under  the  general  deno- 
mination of  Scythians.  They  led  a  wandering 
life,  their  carts  being  their  habitations ;  and  sub- 
sisted  chiefly  upon  the  produce  of  their  herds 
and  flocks,  the  skins  of  the  latter  forming  their 
only  clothing.  Their  manners  were  rude,  cruel, 
and  Hcentious.  Their  successors,  the  inhabitants 
of  modern  "  New  Russia,**  resemble  their  an- 
cestors  in  many  respects.  They  are  almost  as 
uncivilised,  equally  ignorant,  surpass  them  in 
their  vices,  and  are  still  clad  in  sheep-skins.  The 
Greeks  and  Romans,  it  is  well  known,  were  in 
the  habit  of  calling  the  Scythians  "barbarians;** 
and  the  lower  order  of  Russians,  to  the  present 
day,  merit  no  other  appellation ;  nor  will  they,  so 
long  as  the  government  of  Russia  continues  to 
be  despotic,  and  they  are  kept  in  slavery  and  in 
ignorance.  In  after  ages  we  find  the  Scythians 
gave  way  to  the  classic  Greeks ;  and  there  is  no 
doubt  that  a  Grecian  establishment  existed  upon 
part  of  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Odessa,  from 
the  circumstance  that  painted  vases  of  Grecian 
manufacture  were  discovered  a  few  years  ago, 

N 


I 


! 


A 


178 


RISE,    PROGRESS,   AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


179 


while  digging  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  theatre, 
and  in  other  parts  of  the  town  ;  and  it  seems  very 
probable,  from  what  is  advanced  by  M.  Blarem- 
berg  in  a  short  paper  on  the  subject,  that  this 
establishment  was  a  colony  called  Istrianon  Limen 
(Io-Tpiavc7iV  x<nAr)v),  or  port  of  the  Istrians,  of  which 
the  city  of  Istrus,  founded  by  the  Milesians,  ac- 
cording to  Eusebius,  six  hundred  and  fifty-live 
years  before  the  Christian  era,  was  the  metro- 
polis. In  the  course  of  time,  upon  the  Greeks 
being  conquered  by  tlie  Turks,  the  city  in  ques- 
tion  fell  under  the  dominion  of  the  latter,  and 
continued  so  until  the  year  1789 ;  when  it  con- 
sisted  of  nothing  but  a  small  Turkish  fort  and 
village  called  Hadgibey,  Adjibey,  or  Kodjabey, 
for  we  meet  with  all  these  appellations  in  ditterent 


authors. 


THE  TAKING  OF  HADGIBEY. 


In  the  month  of  June,  17^9,  Prince  Potyemkin 
despatched  Major-general  Ribas  to  take  the  com- 
mand  of  the  Zaparogian  flotilla  stationed  at  Ot- 
schakof ;' who  immediately  employed  the  Kozaks 
to  raise  the  Turkish  launches  which  had  been 
sunk  in  the  Limen  by  the  Russians  during  the 
siege  of  this  place ;  and  a  month  had  scarcely 
been  devoted  to  this  work,  before  twenty-two 
were  recovered  from  the  sea,  repaired,  and  armed. 
The  Prince,  on  his  arrival  at  Otschakof  in  the 
month  of  July,  was  surprised  at  the  promptitude 
of  General  Ribas,  and,  as  a  recompense  for  his 
zeal,  gave  him  the  command  of  the  vanguard  of 


"IJ 


I 


the  army  under  the  orders  of  General  Goiidovitch. 
This  division  consisted  of  picked  men :  it  was 
composed  of  a  battalion  of  Nikolaiefsky  grena- 
diers, raised  by  the  Prince  in  honour  of  St. 
Nicholas,  the  patron  saint  of  Russia,  and  was 
formed  of  men  chosen  from  the  grenadiers  of 
three  regiments.  It  contained  four  companies  of 
two  hundred  and  twelve  men  each,  commanded 
by  Colonel  Scarabelli,  an  officer  of  merit.  To 
this  battalion  two  regiments  of  Don  and  one  of 
Zaparogian  Kozaks  were  added. 

During  the  month  of  August  General  Ribas 
ordered  Captain  Arkoudinsky  to  proceed  with  a 
hundred  Kozaks  to  reconnoitre  Hadgibey,  if  pos- 
sible, without  approaching  so  near  as  to  alarm 
the  Turks.  By  marching  in  the  night,  and  con- 
cealing himself  during  the  day  in  the  valleys, 
he  gained,  undiscovered  by  the  enemy,  such  a 
position  as  to  be  able  to  distinguish,  by  means  of 
a  telescope,  that  there  were  a  great  number  of 
Turks  about  it ;  and  that  there  were,  moreover, 
thirty-nine  vessels  in  the  harbour,  of  which  two 
large  xebecks  and  thirty-three  launches  were  at 
anchor.  While  making  these  observations,  he 
remarked  that  two  other  xebecks  were  preparing 
to  set  sail.  Upon  this  report  General  Ribas 
formed,  in  conjunction  with  General  Goudovitch 
and  Rear-admiral  Woinovitch,  a  plan  of  attack 
by  aea  and  land,  for  the  purpose  of  capturing  at 
the  same  time  the  fort  and  the  fleet.  The  skill 
of  General  Ribas  conducted  his  little  army  with 
success  as  far  as  the  valley  of  Koujalnic,  five 

N   2 


180 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


181 


versts  distant  from  the  place ;  from  whence  he 
despatched  a  Kozak  to  the  Rear-admiral,  giving 
him  notice  that  on  the  14th,  at  break  of  day,  he 
should  attack  the  fort.     On  the  appointed  day 
the  Russians  arrived  within  a  verst  of  the  place 
before  they  were  discovered  by  their  enemies. 
In  vain  did  the  Turks  open  their  iire ;  the  grena- 
diers  had  already  planted  their  scaling-ladders ; 
and  before  many  rounds  could  be  discharged, 
the   assailants,   headed  by  a  non-commissioned 
officer  named  Zugine  (who  first  mounted  them), 
made  themselves  masters  of  the  walls,  and  soon 
terminated  the  sanguinary  conflict  by  putting  the 
whole  garrison  to  the  sword,  with  the  exception 
of  one  single  Turk,  who,  having  entrenched  him- 
self  in  the  powder  magazine,  made  the  Russians 
understand  the  danger  there  would  be  in  firing 
upon  him  while  so  situated.    Very  few  cannon 
were  found,  the  majority  of  which  were  of  iron ; 
and  but  a  small  quantity  of  provisions  and  am- 
munition.     The  attack  and  capture  being  almost 
simultaneous,  the  Turkish  flotilla  did  not  know 
of  the  disaster  till  it  was  too  late  to  remedy  it 
.  As  soon,  however,  as   it  became  aware  of  the 
result,  a  continued  and  vigorous  fire  was  opened 
upon  the  fort,  but  so  ill-directed  that  the  shot 
passed  over  it  without  producing  any  effect 

The  roar  of  the  cannon  alone  informed  General 
Goudovitch  that  the  action  was  taking  place ;  for 
General  Ribas,  although  he  had  made  that  officer 
agree  to  the  necessity  of  taking  the  fort,  yet  had 
given  him  no  intimation  of  the  time  when  he 


proposed  to  commence  the  attack ;  having  com- 
municated this  information  solely  to  Admiral 
Woinovitch.  General  Goudovitch,  though  well 
aware  that  Ribas  was  determined  to  secure  to 
himself  the  whole  credit  of  taking  Hadgibey,  yet 
so  far  from  being  piqued  at  it,  immediately  de- 
spatched cannon  and  soldiers  to  the  latter's  as- 
sistance :  and  Major  Merkel  of  the  artillery  made 
so  good  a  use  of  these  pieces,  that  he  disabled 
many  of  the  Turkish  launches,  three  of  which 
were  taken ;  the  rest  of  the  Turkish  flotilla  slipped 
their  cables  and  got  off  without  the  Russians 
being  able  to  make  any  attempt  to  prevent  them, 
for  Admiral  Woinovitch  never  stirred  from  Ot- 
schakofl  This  conduct  of  the  Admiral  is  truly 
characteristic  of  Russian  commanders  in  general, 
who  are  seldom  actuated  by  unanimity  of  opinion ; 
but  on  the  contrary,  whose  cabals  and  jealousies 
often  defeat  the  best  laid  plans,  and  render  use- 
less the  devotion  of  the  common  soldiers.  The 
success  of  General  Ribas  was  exceedingly  grati- 
fying to  Prince  Potyemkin,  who,  in  consequence, 
gave  him  the  command  of  the  flotilla  which  Ad- 
miral  Woinovitch  had  previously  held.  Thus  we 
see  an  officer  of  cavalry  in  an  instant  metamor- 
phosed into  a  sailor ;  a  practice  which  exists  in 
Russia  even  at  the  present  day.*  The  little 
army  of  General  Goudovitch  encamped  at  Had- 
gibey; and  a  few  days  afterwards  the  grand 
Turkish  fleet  appeared,  consisting  of  twenty-six 

*  The  present  captain  of  the  port  of  Odessa  was  a  major 
of  cavalry ;  he  has  since  been  made  a  colonel. 

N  3 


ll 


182 


RISE,    PUOGUESS,    AND 


vessels  of  the  line,  or  frigates.  Such  an  imposing 
force  would  have  frightened  the  handful  of  men 
in  possession  of  the  captured  fort,  had  it  not  soon 
been  perceived  that  the  Turkish  commander  was 
as  ignorant  of  naval  tactics  as  cautious  of  endan- 
gering his  own  life.  For  after  frequently  tacking 
about,  and  executing  many  other  frivolous  man- 
oeuvres, rending  the  air  with  the  menacing  cries 
of  his  soldiers  and  sailors,  and  wasting  a  great 
deal  of  powder,  he  retired  without  any  of  his  shot 
having  reached  the  shore. 

Hadgibey,  on  its  capture,  was  found  to  consist 
of  some  barracks,  five  or  six  small  houses,  and 
a  larger  one,  defended  with  high  walls  and  battle- 
ments, but  without  any  ditch,  which  was  called 
the  Palace,  and  served  for  the  residence  of  the 
Pacha.  The  environs  were  quite  bare  and  des- 
titute of  trees ;  and  only  a  few  earthern  huts, 
scarcely  projecting  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  were  to  be  discovered  on  the  spot  which 
is  now  occupied  by  the  public  garden  of  Odessa. 
The  port  of  Hadgibey  had  served  from  time  im- 
memorial tor  the  shipment  of  the  grain  and  mer- 
chandize which  Constantinople  used  to  draw  from 
these  parts  ;  the  barley  grown  in  the  environs  of 
Hadgibey  being  specially  consigned  to  the  stables 
of  the  Grand  Seignior. 

FOUNDATION    OF    ODESSA. 

After  its  conquest,  the  Empress  Catharine  the 
Second  resolved  to  establish  at  Hadgibey  a  colony 
of  Greeks  from  the  Archipelago.    She  appointed 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


183 


\ . 


r 


I 


i 


a  mayor ;  and  some  mean  buildings  were  raised 
towards  the  foundation  of  a  town,  to  which  she 
granted  certain  privileges,  and  these  attracted 
settlers  from  various  parts.  At  this  time  Ad- 
niiral  Ribas,  having  remarked  the  advantages  that 
his  conquest  presented,  proposed  to  convert  it 
into  a  merchant  port,  which  might  also  serve,  in 
case  of  necessity,  as  a  harbour  for  vessels  of  war. 
The  inconveniences  of  the  port  of  Cherson,  and 
the  unhealthiness  of  its  climate,  having  been  long 
felt,  as  well  as  the  necessity  of  acquiring  a  nearer 
outlet  for  the  productions  of  the  fertile  provinces 
of  Poland,  which  had  recently  been  added  to  the 
empire,  rendered  evident  the  wisdom  of  the  pro* 
ject.  It  accordingly  met  with  the  approbation 
of  the  Empress,  who,  in  1796,  named  the  place 
Odessa,  from  the  belief  which  then  prevailed, 
that  on  its  site  had  formerly  stood  the  ancient 
city  of  Odessus ;  the  memory  of  which  she  was 
willing  to  preserve  in  its  present  denomination. 
It  is  most  probable,  however,  that  this  opinion 
was  erroneous ;  for  of  the  two  cities  which  an- 
ciently bore  the  name  of  Odessus,  one  was  un- 
questionably situated  upon  the  ground  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  modern  city  of  Varna*  ;  while 
there  is  very  great  reason  for  believing  that  the 
other  was  placed  upon  the  site  of  the  Russian 
town  of  Otschakof.  t  Whether  it  was  in  con- 
sequence of  the  difficulties  which  a  country  ab- 

*  Some  marbles  found  at  Varna,  and  brought  to  Odessa 
in  lS29i  prove  this. 

t  Vide  Guthrie's  «  Tour  in  the  Crimea." 

N    4 


184 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


185 


solutely  destitute  of  wood,  presented;  the  expense 
incurred  in  the  carriage  of  all  building  materials, 
which,  with  the  exception  of  stone,  had  to  be 
brought  from  a  great  distance ;  or  from  defects 
in  the  plans  themselves,  which  Admiral  Ribas 
unsuccessfully  objected    to,    many  millions    of 
roubles  were  expended  in  the  construction  of  a 
fortress  of  little  importance,  and  of  some  public 
buildings,  chiefly  barracks  :  all  of  which  suffered 
from  the  haste  with  which  they  were  raised ;  and 
the  barracks,  in  particular,  would   have  fallen 
soon  afler  their  construction,  had  it  not  been  for 
the  care  with  which  they  were  annually  repaired. 
The  town  was  laid  out  on  a  large  scale ;  and  an 
unpardonable  fault  was  committed  in  placing  the 
barracks  on  the  sea-shore,  which,  from  the  desti- 
nation of  Odessa,  ought  to  have  been  reserved 
solely  for  commercial  establishments.    This  want 
of  foresight  occasioned  new  expenses  at  an  after 
period,  when  it  became  necessary  to  remove  these 
barracks,  and  to  erect  others  in  more  appropriate 
situations  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  town.  With 
the  sole   exception  of  Admiral  Ribas,  who  ad- 
hered finnly  to  his  plan,  the  officers  connected 
with  the  government  of  Odessa  are  charged  with 
having  been  too  fond  of  money ;  thus  the  works 
of  the  port  remained  unfinished.     This  negli- 
gence  and  procrastination  discouraged  those  who 
had  already  settled  in  the  town,  foreigners  as  well 
as  natives ;  who  feared  that  it  would  be  aban- 
doned  before  its  completion,  and  that  the  advan- 
tages which  had  been  held  out  to  them  would 


never  be  realised.  In  consequence  of  this  well- 
founded  want  of  confidence  they  were  afraid  to 
lay  out  their  capitals  in  building,  and  therefore 
constructed  dwellings  for  their  own  use  of  the 
meanest  description.  The  Admiral,  however, 
set  a  better  example,  by  causing  a  large  and 
commodious  house  to  be  erected  for  himself. 

After  continuing  in  a  languishing  condition 
several  years,  witliout  attracting  the  smallest 
attention  of  the  government,  Odessa  began  to 
raise  itself  in  importance  during  the  year  1801  ; 
and  the  occurrences  which  took  place  from  this 
time  until  1803,  cannot  be  better  described  than 
by  copying  a  manuscript  which  was  furnished  by 
the  local  administration.  "  In  the  month  of 
March,  180J,  the  commerce  in  grain  had  begun 
to  excite  great  hopes;  the  navigation  of  1802 
had  been  brilliant.  Two  hundred  and  eighty 
ships  had  arrived  from  Constantinople  and  the 
Mediterranean :  three  hundred  thousand  tchet- 
verts  of  wheat  had  been  exported,  without  taking 
into  account  the  smaller  grain  ;  and  already  some 
houses  of  commerce,  though  few  in  number, 
had  formed  establishments,  which  however  had 
nothing  of  a  permanent  character  about  them ; 
for  it  may  be  truly  said,  that  at  this  period  almost 
all  the  inhabitants  of  Odessa  were  prepared  to 
leave  the  place  upon  the  first  appearance  of  any 
interruption  to  commerce.  The  number  of  in- 
habitants  might  possibly  amount  to  about  seven 
or  eight  thousand  souls,  of  whom  scarcely  a 
third  were  women.     This  population,  however. 


186 


IlISE,    TROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


187 


was  not  all  inclosed  within  the  town ;  about 
five  hundred  families  inhabited  the  viHages  within 
its  territory,  which  contains  forty  thousand  de- 
siatines.  These  latter  persons  were  in  easy  cir- 
cumstances, and  occupied  tliemselves  in  the  cul- 
ture of  the  land,  which  produced,  one  year  with 
another,  thirty  thousand  tchetvertsof  hard  wheat 
of  the  best  quality ;  the  sale  of  which  was  always 
certain,  at  a  very  advantaj^eous  price.  The 
nature  of  the  population,  at  this  time,  was  such 
as  to  require  the  control  of  a  very  severe  police  : 
Odessa  experienced,  like  many  new  establish- 
ments, the  inconvenience  of  being  the  refuge 
and  thd  asylum  of  the  worst  of  society  from  the 
neiglibouring  countries.  The  Russians  were,  for 
the  most  part,  fellows  who  had  escaped  from 
their  masters,  or  from  the  lands  of  the  crown ; 
the  Poles  were  also  of  the  same  description  :  the 
Greeks  were  in  great  number;  being  the  remainder 
of  those,  who,  having  left  their  country  for  the 
purpose  of  serving  in  the  Russian  armies  during 
the  preceding  wars,  had  been  disbanded  at  the 
peace  which  succeeded.  Three  hundred  Jewish 
families  had  fixed  themselves  at  Odessa,  who 
arrived  chiefly  from  Gallicia;  to  these  were 
added  a  great  number  of  labourers  and  workmen 
of  every  description,  who  came  from  various  parts 
to  seek  employment.  After  this  picture  of  the 
moral  character  possessed  by  the  early  inha- 
bitants of  Odessa,  some  idea  may  be  formed  as 
to  the  nature  of  its  magistracy  and  internal  ad- 
ministration ;  we   shall,    however,   shortly  give 


proofs  of  what  it  was.  The  Emperor  Paul,  de- 
ceived by  the  false  ideas  formed  of  this  town, 
wished  to  place  its  local  government  upon  the 
level  of  those  of  Riga  and  Revel,  towns  which 
had  existed  for  ages  :  it  soon  became  necessary, 
however,  to  re-establish  things  upon  their  original 
footing.  His  Majesty  also,  towards  the  end  of 
his  reign,  bestowed  his  most  signal  favours  upon 
Odessa :  he  granted  it  the  farming  of  spirits, 
exemption  from  all  taxes,  and  from  finding  quar- 
ters for  troops,  for  twenty-five  years.  In  addi- 
tion to  which,  he  lent  the  town  twenty-five  thou- 
sand roubles,  without  interest,  to  be  repaid  at 
the  termination  of  that  period :  he  made  it  also 
a  present  of  the  materials  which  had  been  col- 
lected, when  it  was  determined  to  make  Odessa 
a  port  for  ships  of  war.  These  advantages,  as  also 
the  tenth  of  the  revenue  of  the  customs,  were 
destined  to  defray  the  expenses  necessary  for 
the  construction  of  a  jetty,  which,  extending  into 
the  sea,  might  render  vessels  secure  from  the 
east  and  south-east  winds,  the  only  ones  to  be 
feared  in  the  bay  of  Odessa.  The  revenue  of 
the  town,  derived  from  the  farming  of  spirits,  had 
been  let  for  forty-five  thousand  roubles,  a  sum 
much  below  its  real  value.  These  revenues  ought, 
according  to  the  intention  of  government,  to  have 
been  employed  towards  defraying  the  expenses  of 
erecting  the  various  useful  establishments  which 
the  tow^n  so  greatly  needed,  and  for  forming  a 
port :  but,  as  they  were  administered  by  the  doomUy 
witlwut  any  superintendence,  they  were  neither 


188 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


189 


I 


employed  for  other  objects  of  public  utility,  nor 
was  any  part  of  them  expended  for  the  works  of 
the  port.      For  the   superintendence   of  these 
works  there  had  been  established  a  committee, 
composed  of  seven  members,  among  whom  was 
the  golova^  or  mayor;   this  committee  was  in 
continual  opposition  to  the  doomoy  where  certain 
turbulent  persons  domineered  according  to  cus- 
tom. They  persuaded  themselves,  that  the  sove- 
reign had  made  them  a  present  of  the  farming  of 
spirits,  to  employ  it  for  their  own  profit  and  ad- 
vantage ;  or,  in  plain  language,  to  share  its  reve- 
nues :  and  as  forty-five  thousand  roubles  did  not 
appear  to  them  sufficient  for  the  purpose,  they 
imposed,  at  their  pleasure,  taxes  upon  commerce. 
A  duty  of  five  kopecks  per  tchetvert  upon  the 
grain  exported,  had  been  established  by  them  ; 
and  they  had  farmed  it  out  for  the  sum  of  two 
thousand  seven  hundred  roubles,  although  it  had 
produced  fifleen  thousand  the  preceding  year ! 
Vessels  arriving  had    been  charged  a  duty  of 
fifty  roubles  for  those  with  three  masts,  and  of 
twenty-five  roubles  for  smaller  craft     It  is  true, 
that  these  arbitrary  impositions  frequently  pro- 
duced  appeals ;    however,   they   succeeded   in 
drawing  something  from  them ;  and  this,  what- 
ever might  be  its  amount,  was  therefore  so  much 
gained.     The  dooma  and  the  magistrates  relin- 
quished  with  great  reluctance  any  trifling  sum  of 
their  money  to  the  committee,  which  on  its  side 
was  not  much  more  free  from  reproach ;  as  may 
be  judged  from,  the  little  order  in  its  works;  by 


the  excessive  price  of  many  of  them,  and  by  their 
extraordinary  nature.  Among  these  public  works 
was  a  road,  which  did  not  exists  but  which  cost 
nevertheless  five  thousand  roubles !  and  more- 
over a  project  for  levelling  a  mountain  *,  which  it 
was  estimated  would  amount  to  fifty-six  thousand 
roubles !  These  things  produced  a  strong  impres- 
sion upon  several  members  of  the  committee ; 
and  it  is  but  justice  to  mention,  that  to  the  un- 
wearied exertions  of  two  of  them,  Messrs.  Kiria- 
koflT,  Odessa  owes  its  present  existence ;  to  whom 
the  inhabitants  are  also  indebted  for  that  part  of 
the  jetty  or  pier  which  is  constructed  with  soli- 
dity, —  a  property  which  would  be  vainly  sought 
in  all  the  other  public  works  which  had  been  per- 
formed from  the  origin  of  Odessa  up  to  the 
time  of  which  we  are  speaking.  Individuals  have 
described  with  horror  the  state  in  which  the 
quarantine  was,  in  which  passengers  were  com- 
pelled to  expect  and  to  brave  the  plague.  The 
buildings  destined  for  the  new  one  were  falling 
in  part,  and  the  remainder  has  since  fallen ;  the 
barracks,  without  roof,  doors,  or  windows,  pre- 
sented the  image  of  ruin ;  they  had  been  built 
with  small  stones,  and  mud  composed  of  sea 
water  and  the  rich  earth  of  the  Steppe.  The 
naval  hospital,  as  strongly  built,  was  unfinished ; 
and,  finally,  the  little  jetty  called  "  the  military 
port,"  was   in  a  state  of  dilapidation  which  it 

*  This  mountain,  like  the  road,  did  not  exist,  and  was 
merely  a  plan  for  embezzling  the  sum  its  levelling  was  said 
to  require. 


\L 


190 


RISE,    niOGUESS,    AND 


was  necessary  immediately  to  remedy,  or  to  see 
the  sums  already  expended  upon  it  absolutely 
lost. 

To  all  this  must  be  added,  that  the  town  was 
composed  of  houses  placed  here  and  there,  upon 
no  regular  plan ;  no  street  was  formed,  nor  even 
proper  roads. 

This  was  the  state  of  things  which  existed 
in  the  month  of  March  1803,  when  the  Duke  de 
Richelieu  was  appointed  Governor  of  Odessa,  who 
speedily  caused  the  aspect  of  affairs  to  change, 
established  public  confidence,  and  prepared  plans, 
the  rapid  execution  of  which  appeared  a  phe- 
nomenon in  a  country  where  hands  were  so 
scarce. 

PROGRESS  OF  ODESSA  FROM  1803  TO  1814. 

The  state  in  which  he  found  affairs  upon  his 
arrival  at  Odessa  no  doubt  astonished  the  Duke 
de  Richelieu,  but  did  not  discourage  him.  And 
perceiving  at  once  the  important  advantages 
which  the  prosperity  and  consequent  elevation 
of  Odessa  would  confer  upon  the  provinces  in 
the  south  of  the  empire,  by  affording  a  channel 
for  exporting  their  superabundance,  he  de- 
termined to  subdue  all  obstacles;  and  as  a  first 
step,  proposed  to  disencumber  commerce  of  the 
impediments  which  fettered  its  progress,  and  to 
direct  the  administration  of  the  town  upon 
principles  different  from  those  by  which  it  had 
previously  been  actuated.  He  therefore  first 
annulled   the    arbitrary   and   vexatious    duties 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


191 


which  had  been  imposed  upon  commerce  ;  and 
then  called  a  meeting  of  the  merchants,  and 
represented  to  them  the  state  of  the  town.  He 
reminded  them  that  the  churches  had  advanced 
no  farther  than  their  foundations ;  that  there 
was  a  want  of  water  every  where  ;  that  the  roads 
were  impassable,  particularly  at  the  approaches 
to  the  town  ;  and  proposed  that  for  all  wheat 
exported,  they  should  agree  to  pay  two  kopecks 
and  a  half  per  tchetvert,  for  the  purpose  of 
raising  a  revenue  to  be  employed  in  the  con- 
struction of  churches,  wells,  and  roads.  The 
suggestion  was  at  once  acceded  to :  formerly 
the  merchants  were  compelled  to  pay  a  duty  of 
five  kopecks,  without  knowing  to  what  purpose  it 
was  applied;  now  it  appeared  certain  that  a 
Jree  gift  of  half  that  sum  would  be  exclusively 
devoted  to  objects  of  the  most  urgent  necessity. 
The  public  money  was  now  no  longer  dissipated, 
for  it  passed  through  honest  hands;  and  the 
moderate  contribution  of  two  kopecks  and  a 
half  produced  in  the  first  year  the  sum  of  12,000 
roubles,  while  previously  the  tax  of  five  kopecks 
had  been  farmed  out  for  27OO !  During  this 
year,  twenty-seven  wells  were  either  made  or 
repaired ;  a  place  for  watering  cattle  was  con- 
structed, which,  except  during  the  heats,  always 
contained  a  sejene  of  water ;  and  a  commodious 
road  was  formed,  leading  to  the  military  port. 
The  following  year  the  same  revenue  was  ap- 
propriated to  the  building  of  the  Catholic  church; 
and  the  year  after  was  fixed  as  the  period  for  the 


I/. 


192 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


construction  of  the  Greek  church.     It  appeared, 
however,  impossible  to  defray  the  expense  at- 
tending the  works  of  the  town  with  the  funds 
granted  by  the  Emperor ;  and  notwithstanding 
the  wrangling  of  interested  individuals,  in  which 
the  public  good  formed  no  part  of  the  objects 
considered,  permission  was  obtained  to  join  the 
revenues  arising  from  the  farming  of  spirits  to 
the   sums    already   in    hand.      The   project   of 
levelling  the  mountain,  a  new  species  of  solvent 
invented  for  the  purpose  of  taking  the  money, 
and  of  keeping  it  in  hand,  either  to  cover  some 
previous  or  future  deficit,  or  to  assist  the  eva- 
poration  of  the  precious  metals  in  the  same  cru- 
cible  where  the  duty  of  five  kopecks  had  already 
disappeared,  was  no  longer  pursued,  but  was  dis- 
carded  as  a  wicked  joke  ;  for,  with  reference  to 
the  locality,  it  was  as  ridiculous  to  propose  the 
levelling  of  this  mountain,  as  to  require  another 
to  be   raised  with   its   materials.      Plans  more 
worthy  and  more   useful   succeeded  these  dis- 
honest  chimeras.     It  was  proposed  that  the  for- 
tress  should  serve  also  for  the  quarantine.     Its 
situation  at  one  of  the  extremities  of  the  town, 
its  insulation,  the  advantages  which  would  result 
from  employing  certain  buildings  already  erected, 
and  a  host  of  other  circumstances,  united  in  con- 
firming  the  wisdom  of  the  suggestion,  and  the 
propriety  of  adopting  it :  nevertheless,  the  ad- 
ministration   was  aware  that  these   advantages 
could  not  be  obtained  without  considerable  ex- 
penditure ;  since  it  would  be  necessary  to  con- 


PRESENT    STATE    OP   ODESSA. 


193 


struct  a  thick  and  elevated  wall  of  inclosure,  to 
raise  habitations  for  the  superintendents  and  the 
passengers,  as  well  as  magazines  for  the  purifi- 
cation of  merchandise ;    to   prolong   the   pier, 
already  commenced,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving 
foreign  vessels;   to  construct  conversation  gal- 
leries,  and  to  perform  other  works,  which  would 
become  requisite  in  consequence  of  those  just 
named.     All  these  have  since  been  completed, 
and  while   the   administration   was  contracting 
large  expenses  for  the  improvement  and  benefit 
of  the  town,  the  prudent  application  of  the  reve- 
nues  committed  to  its  care  was  also  insuring  the 
means  of  meeting  those  expenses;  the  sum  received 
for  the  farming  of  spirits  alone  having  increased 
from  45,000  roubles  to  more  than  100,000. 

The  facilities  for  commerce,  the  soul  of  Odessa, 
having  been   thus   secured,  the   administration 
next  turned  its  attention  to  other  objects,  hardly 
less  interesting  or  less  important.     The  want  of 
a  general  hospital  beginning  to  be  experienced. 
It  was  determined  to  erect  a  large  one  after  a 
handsome  plan ;  to  accelerate  the  construction 
of  churches  ;  to  establish  a  gymnasium ;  to  pur- 
chase  a  beautiful  plot  of  ground,  already  planted 
with  trees,  for  the  purpose  o£  converting  it  into 
a  pubUc  garden  ;  and  to  encourage  all  to  build, 
by  assisting  those  who  were  possessed  only  of 
slender  means  with  advances  of  money,  at  in- 
terest,  secured  by  mortgage  upon  the  buildings. 
Trees  were  planted  before  many  of  the  public 
edifices,  the  situation  of  which  would  admit  of 


1 


194 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


195 


such  an  ornament,  and  every  street  had  its  rows 
of  poplars.     Hitherto  the  merchants  had  been 
contented  merely  to  have  agents  at  Odessa ;  but 
such  encouragement,  such  liberal  views,  so  many 
objects  of  pubUc  utiHty,    determined   many  to 
come  and  inhabit  a  town,  which  they  had  never, 
until   then,    regarded   except   on   the  score   of 
profit,    but    which    was,    apparently,    about   to 
become  an  agreeable  place  of  residence.     The 
reported  beauty  of  the  climate  and  salubrity  of 
the  air  tended  to  add  new  inducements  to  old 
advantages.     The  taste    for   having   fixed  pro- 
perty at  Odessa  arose,  and   soon    spread ;    the 
town  was  remodelled,  and,  under  the  protection 
of  its  beneficent  guardian,  rapidly  increased  in 
extent  and  prosperity.     Now  the  capitalist  dared 
to  set  apart  a  small  portion  of  his  profits,  with 
which    to    procure    a   commodious    habitation. 
Now  the  well-paid   labourer,   quitting  his  sub- 
terranean abode,  built  himself  a  small  house  of 
stone ;    and   the    wealthier   inhabitants    of  the 
country  could  not  be  contented  without  the  pos- 
session of  a  residence  in  the  town  also.     Fo- 
reigners of  various  nations,  Poles  and  Russians 
from  the  interior  of  the  empire,  wished  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  Odessa ;  and  the  houses 
then  in  existence  not  being  sufficiently  numerous 
to  contain  a  population  so  rapidly  augmenting, 
rents,  as  a  matter  of  course,  increased  in  pro- 
portion.    But  in  this  world  good  and  evil  are  so 
intimately  connected,  that  the  first  is  rarely  found 
without  its  attendant  disadvantage. 


ft 


The  political  changes  which  had  taken  place 
throughout  Europe,  upon  the  overthrow  of  Buo- 
naparte in  the  year  1814,  recalled  the  Duke  de 
Richelieu  to  his  native  country,  and  compelled 
him  to  quit  Odessa,  which  may  be  truly  called 
the  offspring  of  his  zeal  and  fostering  care.     He 
found  it  a  desert;  he  left  it  a  flourishing  city. 
This  event  produced  the  most  poignant  regret 
in  every  class  of  its  inhabitants ;  and  he  retired, 
bearing  with  him  their  heartfelt  gratitude  and 
esteem,  being  succeeded  by  his  friend  and  coun- 
tryman Count  Langeron. 

The  new  Governor-general  followed  in  the 
footsteps  of  his  predecessor,  being  guided  by  his 
liberal  and  enlightened  views.     In  consequence, 
Odessa  daily  augmented  in  size  and  prosperity ; 
and  would  have  continued  to  do  so,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  narrow-minded  and  faithless  policy 
of  the  Russian  government.     One  very  import- 
ant measure,  the  necessity  of  which  had  always 
been  strongly  urged  by  the  Duke  de  Richelieu  — 
namely,  that  of  making  Odessa  a  free  port  — 
being  granted  in  1819  by  an  ukase  of  the  Emperor 
Alexander,  and  guaranteed  for  a  certain  number 
of  years,  was  celebrated  in  the  town,  with  great 
rejoicings,  by  all  classes  of  the  community ;  yet, 
scarcely  had  three  years  elapsed  before  it  was  in 
agitation  at  St.  Petersburg  to  abolish  this  privi- 
lege,  upon  the  faith  of  which  numerous  indivi- 
duals had  been  induced  to  expend  large  capitals 
in  forming  establishments  at   Odessa.     Count 
Langeron  used  his  most  strenuous  endeavours  to 

o  2 


196 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


convince  the  government  of  the  injustice  and 
impolicy  of  the  projected  change,  but  without 
effect :  the  most  ridiculous  and  vexatious  orders 
were  forwarded  to  him ;  in  consequence  of  which, 
new  barriers  were  erected  round  the  town,  so  as 
to  inclose  the  end  of  every  street ;  nor  was  any 
private  carriage,  or  even  a  water-cart,  allowed 
to  pass  without  being  strictly  searched  by  the 
officers  of  the  douane.     At  length  Count  Lan- 
geron,  finding  his  representations  entirely  disre- 
garded, and  being  unwilling  any  longer  to  exe- 
cute the  oppressive  mandates  transmitted  to  him, 
requested  leave  of  absence  to  visit  his   native 
country,  which  was  immediately  granted;  and 
not  long  after.  His  Excellency  received  an  inti- 
mation  that  he  need  not  return  to  his  government. 
A  short  interregnum  succeeded,  during  which 
the  foreign  merchants  all  determined  to  quit  a 
country  where  they  had  been  ruined  by  the  faith- 
lessness  of  imperial  ukases ;  and  then  only  did 
the  government  see  its  error.     M.  llibaupierre, 
director  of  the  bank  at  St.  Petersburg,  was  des- 
patched  "by  the  crown,  to  assist  a  committee  in 
determining  the  vital  question,  whether  Odessa 
should  remain  a  free  port  or  not  :'*  and  although 
it  was  finally  decided  in  the  negative,  yet  it  was 
determined  that  three  fourths  of  the  amount  of 
duties  levied  in  the  other  ports  of  the  empire 
should  be  remitted  upon  all  articles  imported 
into  Odessa ;  but  that  if  they  should  pass  from 
thence  into  the  interior  of  the  country,  then  the 
amount  which  had  been  remitted  should  be  paid 


PRESENT  STATE  OF  ODESSA. 


197 


at  the  barrier.  This  late  return,  however,  to 
the  principles  of  a  more  enlightened  policy 
availed  little  towards  the  revival  of  trade,  since 
public  confidence  was  at  an  end.*  Affairs  re- 
mained  thus  at  Odessa  till  May,  18^3,  when 
Count  Michel  Vorontzof  wss  appointed  Gover. 
nor-general,  whose  public  conduct  has  principally 
consisted  in  carrying  into  effect  the  plans  left 
unfinished  by  the  Duke  de  Richelieu.  The  bar- 
riers have  been  once  more  removed  to  a  greater 
distance  from  the  town,  and  several  of  its  privi- 
leges  confirmed.  A  row  of  houses,  termed  the 
"  New  Boulevard,"  has  been  constructed  on  the 
cliff  to  the  north-east  of  Odessa.     An  immense 

*  After  such  conduct  on  the  part  of  the  government, 
when  the  Emperor's  word  was  even  pledged,  we  need  not 
feel  surprised  at  private  noblemen  in  Russia  being  in  the 
habit  of  breaking  their  most  solemn  engagements,  whenever 
It  may  suit  their  purpose  to  do  so. 

"  Both  the  government  and  private  noblemen,"  as  Dr. 
Lyall  justly  observes,  "  are  distinguished  in  Russia  for  their 
extravagant  and  seducing  promises,  and  even  their  liberal 
and  prodigal  deeds,  so  long  as  they  have  some  object  in  view, 
some  advantage,  real  or  fancied,  to  attain  ;  but  the  moment 
they  are"  (or  imagine  that  they  are)  «  independent  of  a 
person's  services,  they  treat  him  with  neglect ;  and  if  they 
perceive  that  his  feelings  are  wounded,  they  sometimes  add 
scorn  and  contempt  to  insolence.  Besides,  they  act  at  times 
ivith  a  degree  of  meanness  and  injustice  which  ill  tallies  with 
their  pretended  rank  in  society  and  their  assumed  import, 
ance  in  the  scale  of  nations,  and  of  which  the  meanest 
mechanic  or  tradesman  in  Britain  would  be  ashamed.  But 
shame  ts  little  known  in  Russia  ;  and,  as  if  the  cold  climate 
had  some  effect,  the  *  rosy  blush  '  of  awakened  conscience 
18  rarely  perceived."  —  Lyall,  vol.  i.  p.  42. 

O  3 


198 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


building  has  been  raised  for  the  residence  of  the 
present  civil  Governor,  on  the  site  where  for- 
merly  stood  that  of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu  •  ; 
and  to  conclude,  His  Excellency  Count  Vo- 
rontzof   has   erected  a    splendid    mansion    tor 

himself. 

Having  thus  given  a  general  history  of  Odessa 
from  the  earliest  periods  up  to  the  present  day, 
a  minute  description  of  the  town  as  it  now 
appears,  its  climate,  population,  government, 
trade,  &c.,  and  an  account  of  its  public  build- 
ines  and  establishments,  will  next  be  attempted. 

Odessa  is  built  upon  a  regular  plan,  in  the 
modern  style  of  architecture :  its  streets  are  spa- 
cious, and  its  buildings  large ;  and,  as  another 
author  justly  observes,  it  may  be  denominated 
«  Petersburg  in  miniature."  Upon  ascending 
the  steep  limestone  rock  on  which  the  town  is 
situated,  the  Strada  Chersonat  suddenly  bursts 
upon  the  view.  This  is  a  handsome  street,  about 
half  a  mile  in  length  and  very  broad,  planted  on 
each  side  the  carriage-way  with  white  acacias, 
and  having  pavements  of  soft  stone  (now  worn 

*  A  foreign  writer  observes,—"  One  sole  public  building 
was  neglected :  the  Governor,  in  that  forgetfulness  of  himself 
and  that  simplicity  of  manners  which  distinguished  his  cha- 
racter, had  in  no  respect  changed  the  modesty  of  the  habi- 
tation which,  upon  his  arrival,  he  had  found  destined  for 

himself." 

t  The  names  of  the  streets  are  painted  in  Russ  and  in 

Italian. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


199 


into  deep  holes)  on  each  side  for  foot  passengers. 
In  the  Strada  Chersona  are  several  handsome 
buildings  :  to  the  left,  on  entering  it,  stands  the 
town  hospital,  a  large  and  rather  elegant  struc- 
ture ;  higher  up,  on  the  right,  is  the  house  for- 
merly occupied  by  Count  Vorontzofi  at  present 
by  Jusuph  Pacha ;  and  on  either  side  are  large 
magazines,  built  so  as  to  resemble  houses,  and 
by  no  means  destitute  of  architectural  beauty. 
It  terminates,  finally,  in  a  large  irregular  space, 
containing  the  cathedral,  the  guard-house,  and  a 
building  lately  erected  by  the  recently  established 
fire  insurance  company.  Turning  to  the  left,  we 
find  ourselves  in  the  Strada  Ribas,  a  street  about 
two  thirds  the  length  of  the  preceding,  and  which 
rises  considerably  from  each  extremity  towards 
its  centre  :  in  this  is  situated  the  entrance  to  the 
public  garden,  and  one  fa9ade  of  the  Lyceum  of 
Richelieu.  Having  proceeded  about  three  fourths 
of  its  length,  the  Strada  Ribas  is  intersected 
at  right  angles,  in  both  directions,  by  another 
street  considerably  longer  than  either  of  the  pre- 
ceding :  this  is  called  the  Strada  Richelieu,  its 
direction  being  nearly  from  south-west  to  the 
opposite  point  of  the  compass.  Inclining  once 
more  to  the  left,  and  entering  that  portion  of  the 
last-mentioned  street  which  lies  to  the  north-east 
of  the  Strada  Ribas,  we  see  the  English  maga- 
zine and  the  enormous  house  of  the  civil  Go- 
vernor on  our  right ;  and  the  Club,  as  it  is  called, 
on  our  left.  This  end  of  the  Strada  Richelieu 
terminates  in  an  open  space,  about  the  centre  of 

o  4 


200 


RISE,    PROGRESS,   AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


201 


which   is   situated  the  theatre  ;   whence  there 
is  a  magnificent  view  of  part  of  tlie  Black  Sea, 
with  the  quarantine  port  and  the  shipping  below. 
Crossing  this  place  diagonally,  and  bending  again 
to  the  left,  we  reach  the  New  Boulevard ;  the 
rising  walls  of  the  new  Exchange  being  at  its 
nearest  extremity,  and  at  its  farthest  the  mansion 
of  Count  Vorontzof,     The  reader  has  thus  been 
led  through  the  court  end  of  the  town,  and  the 
streets  chiefly  worthy  of  notice  have  been  enu- 
merated;— the  last-mentioned  objects,  however, 
require  a  few  words  in  addition.     The  site  of  the 
New  Boulevard  was,  a  few  years  ago,  occupied 
by  some  ruinous  barracks,  and  paltry  houses  in- 
habited by  the  lowest  classes  of  society ;  but  its 
advantageous   situation   and  the   beauty  of  its 
prospect  being  duly  appreciated,  it  was  deter- 
mined to  convert  the  ground  to  its  present  des- 
tination.    The  Boulevard  is  about  half  a  mile  in 
length  :  it  consists  of  a  single  row  of  houses 
facing  the  sea,  most  of  them  being  on  a  large 
scale ;  and,  had  one  regular  plan  of  architecture 
been  adhered  to,  the  whole  would  have  formed 
a  magnificent  pile  of  building ;  but  every  person 
who  took  ground  has  been  allowed  to  build  ac- 
cording to  his  own  taste,  and  thus  houses  of  all 
heights  and  descriptions  are  found  in  the  same  row ; 
even  a  magazine  for  corn  appearing  among  them ! 
which,  from  the  waggons  constantly  loading  and 
unloading  before  it,  must  be  a  perpetual  nuisance 
to  the  inhabitants  in  the  immediate  vicinity.    In 
rt>e  centre ^f  the  Boulevard,  upon  a  raised  pe^ 


destal  of  red  granite,  is  placed  a  bronze  statue 
of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu;  a  well-merited  tribute 
from  the  inhabitants  of  Odessa  to  the  memory 
of  their  departed  Governor-general,  but  so  badly- 
executed,  that  it  is  said  to  bear  no  resemblance 
whatever  to  the  Duke.     A  broad  carriage-way 
runs  close  to  the  houses,  the  space  from  this  to 
tlie  edge  of  the  cHff  being  planted  with  several 
rows  of  young  acacias,  and  the  walks  between 
them    covered  with   sand   from   the   sea-shore. 
The  New  Boulevard  is  a  great  improvement  to 
the  town,  and  forms  an  agreeable  promenade  in 
the  summer  evenings.     At  its  north-western  ex- 
tremity  is  situated  the  new  house  of  Count  Vo- 
rontzof  before  alluded  to,  which  was,  during  the 
late  imperial  visit  to  Odessa,  the  residence  of 
their  Majesties  the  Emperor  and   Empress  of 
Russia.     This  is  a  large  plain  building,  like  all 
in  Odessa,  plastered  over  :  it  has  one  very  great 
defect,  namely,  that  of  being  placed  so  low  that 
from  the  Boulevard  only  the  upper  part  is  visible, 
thus  appearing  as  if  it  were  sunk  in  a  well :  this 
completely  destroys  the   effect  of  what  might 
otherwise  have  been  an  imposing  structure.     It 
has  very  large  stables  built  opposite  to  the  grand 
entrance,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  garden  said  to 
be  "  a  I' Anglaise"  terminated  towards  the  Boule- 
vard by  a  handsome  iron  railing  cast  by  Mr. 
Baird  at  St.  Petersburg,  being  the  first  and  only- 
railing  of  that  material  which  has  ever  been  put 
up  in  Odessa.     Upon  entering  the  house,  the 
state  rooms  are  found  on  the  ground  floor ;  and 


I) 


It 


;  i 


II 


H 


^o^ 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


above,  the  domestic  apartments.     The  former 
are  rendered  remarkable  by  containing  the  iden- 
tical doors,  shutters,  and  chimney-piece,  belonging 
to  the  Michailof  Palace  at  St.  Petersburg,  the 
residence  of  the  unfortunate  Emperor  Paul,  and 
the  scene  of  his  murder.     They  were  sold,  as  I 
was  informed,   by  the  present  Emperor,  when 
Grand  Duke,  to  Count  Vorontzof ;  His  Majesty 
being,  at  that  time,  owner  of  the  palace  in  ques- 
tion,  which  has  since  been  dismantled,  and  de- 
voted to  the  purposes  of  a  public  establishment; 
the  room  wherein  the  murder  was  committed 
having  been  walled  up,  so  as  to  prevent  even  the 
possibility  of  its  situation  being  any  longer  distin- 
guishable.     The  state  apartments  consist  of  the 
billiard,  dining,  and  anterooms,  the  grand  saloon, 
the  library,  and  the  Turkish  chamber.     These 
rooms  are  splendid ;  the  floors  of  all,  except  the 
Turkish  chamber,  are  parquetted ;  and,  what  is 
rarely  seen  in  the  mansions  of  Russian  noble- 
men, are  well  supplied  with  elegant  furniture, 
the   greater  part  of  which  was  brought  from 
England.     On  public  days  they  are  all  thrown 
open  to  the  visiters.     The  Turkish  chamber  is 
the   most  elegant,   although   the  least,  among 
them.     It  is  very  high,  and  has  a  light  Gothic 
roof,  painted  pale  green,  with  a  great  deal  of 
beautiful  gilding  about  it ;  and  round  the  sides, 
for  about  six  feet  in  height,  Turkish  or  Persian 
shawls  are  tastefully  suspended:  several  silken 
divans,  and  other  articles  of  furniture,  appear  in 
convenient  situations,  and  a  Persian  carpet  covers 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


203 


the  floor ;  nor  are  valuable  and  rare  articles  of 
vertu  wanting  in  their  appropriate  places.    Freely 
as  I  shall  criticise  other  parts  of  this  mansion,  it 
is  but  justice  to  say  that  I  never  saw  a  more 
elegant  or  chastely  decorated  apartment  than 
this  Turkish  chamber.     But  the  greatest  object 
of  curiosity  in    the  Governor-general's   house, 
during  my  stay  at  Odessa,  was  a  Turkish  talis- 
man ;  the  inefficacy  of  which,  however,  as  a  safe- 
guard, had  been  sufficiently  proved  by  the  fate 
of  its  previous  possessor,  who  was  killed  in  one 
of  the  engagements  between  his  countrymen  and 
the  Russians ;  when  this  badge  of  superstitious 
credulity,  consisting  of  numerous  Eastern  charac- 
ters inscribed  upon  a  piece  of  parchment,  being 
found  on  the  neck  of  the  fallen  chief,  and  for- 
warded to  the  Emperor  as  a  trophy,  was  gra- 
ciously presented    by   His   Majesty   to   Count 
Vorontzofi  as  a  memento  of  his  esteem,  with  the 
request  that  it  might  be  hereafter  preserved  in 
the  Turkish  chamber.     From  this  room  there  is 
a  descent  into  the   conservatory.     The  grand 
staircase  is  a  most  miserable  piece  of  architec- 
ture :  it  is  immensely  wide  until  the  visiter  ap- 
proaches the  rooms  to  which  it  leads,  when  it 
suddenly  terminates  in  a  landing  so  narrow  that 
two  persons  cannot  pass  each  other  without  care ; 
and  the  entrances  to  the  various  rooms  which 
open  out  of  this  landing  can  only  be  described 
as  low  and  mean  apertures.     In  addition  to  these 
imperfections,  the  staircase  has  been  constructed 
in  so  slovenly  a  manner,  that  it  has  been  neces- 


204 


RISE,    TROGRESS,    AND 


1 1<   / 


sary  to  build  brick  supports  to  prevent  it  from 
falling,  —  a  circumstance  not  the  most  creditable 
to  the  architect.  The  best  sleeping-room  is  a 
handsome  chamber,  divided  into  equal  compart- 
ments  by  two  white  scagliola  columns,  between 
which  are  suspended  green  silk  curtains.  At 
right  angles  to  the  house  there  is  a  large  wing, 
containing  several  spacious  apartments,  reserved 
for  visiters,  and  for  an  individual  formerly  at- 

tached  to  the  suite. 

In  the  construction  of  this  part  of  the  building 
the  greatest  possible  blunder  has  been  committed. 
Towards  the  sea,  of  which  otherwise  there  would 
be  a  most  magnificent  view,  it  has  no  windows  ; 
a  circumstance  not  only  destroying  the  external 
uniformity,  but  rendering  the  approaches  to  the 
apartments  extremely  dark:  on  the  contrary, 
they  are  placed  in  the  opposite  side  of  the  wing, 
and  the  only  objects  which  they  afford  the  oppor- 
tunity  of  contemplating  are  the  stables  and  an 

unpleasant  ravine. 

On  resuming  the  general  description  of  the 
town,  it  may  be  observed,  that  all  its  streets  are 
spacious,  having  usually  a  row  of  trees  on  each 
side:  those  formerly  planted  were  poplars,  but  the 
white  acacia  at  present  seems  preferred.  With 
few  exceptions,  the  various  avenues  run  at  right 
angles  to  each  other,  and  some  have  pavements 
of  the  same  description  as  in  the  Strada  Chersona. 
I  have  heard  the  breadth  of  the  streets  often 
made  a  subject  for  censure,  on  account  of  the 
expense  of  keeping  them  in  repair,  (a  thing,  by 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


^205 


the  way,  which  has  never  yet  been  done  ;)  and  I 
am  certainly  of  opinion,  that  when  first  laid  out, 
as  it  could  not  at  that  time  have  been  anticipated 
that  the  place  would  become,  in  so  comparatively 
short  a  period,  what  it  is  at  present,  they  were 
preposterously  large  when  contrasted  with  the 
scattered   huts  which  then  constituted  Odessa. 
For  my  part,  I  do  not  consider  the  streets  too 
wide  for  the  existing  town ;  and  had  they  been 
originally  in  proportion  to  the  houses  first  erected, 
most  serious  inconveniences  would  have  arisen, 
and,  instead  of  being  able  to  place  a  palace  where 
three  or  four  cottages  formerly  stood,  as  is  now 
done,  the  town  must  have  been  entirely  rebuilt, 
or  a  new  one  commenced  on  the  adjoining  Steppe 
after  a  more  extended  plan.     It  is  also  said,  that, 
for  a  town  situated  in  a  hot  climate,  the  streets 
ought  to  have  been  narrow ;  thus  affording  shade 
during  the  prevalence  of  the  sun,  except  when 
vertical.     The  advantages,  however,  to   be  so 
gained  would  be  but  trifling,  and  the  disadvan- 
tages  numerous ;  among  which  an  increased  ten- 
dency to  the  propagation  of  contagion  cannot  be 
considered  as  the  least:  for  it  should  be  con- 
stantly  borne  in  mind,   that  Odessa,  from   its 
locality,  is  always  liable  to  the  introduction  of 
the  plague,  in  spite  of  the  utmost  vigilance  on 
the  part  of  the  officers  whose  duty  it  is  to  enforce 
the  quarantine  regulations.      The  plague  pro- 
duced dreadful  havoc  in  Odessa  in  the  years 
1812  and  1813  (an  account  of  which  will  be 
given  hereafter) ;  and  its  appearance  in  the  town 


» 


i 


I 


206 


RISE,   PROGRESS,   AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


207 


15 


to  a  very  considerable  extent,  during  the  last 
year  (18^9),  is  a  circumstance  familiar  to  all, 
and  which  was  predicted  to  me  by  the  English 
Consul-general  resident  there  some  time  previous 
to  its  taking  place.     The  houses  were  originally, 
as  before  observed,  mere  huts  or  cottages,  con- 
taining  only  ground-floor   apartments  of  little 
elevation,  and  covered  with  wooden  roofs;  — 
many  of  these  are  yet  to  be  seen  in  some  of  the 
bye-streets,  though  rapidly  approaching  to  decay. 
In  the  principal  streets  they  have  been  nearly 
all  removed,  and  upon  their  site  handsomer  and 
more  capacious  structures  erected,  some  few  of 
which  are  of  an  elegant  description  and  of  enor- 
mous dimensions.     The  largest  house  in  Odessa 
was  built  by  a  slave,  who  not  very  long  ago  pur- 
chased  his  freedom  for  an  immense  sum ;  but 
this  is  a  rare  instance  of  great  success  from  na- 
tural  cunning  *,  aided  by  fortunate  occurrences. 
The  houses  may  be  said,  in  general,  to  be  of  two 
stories ;  sometimes  of  three  ;  and,  in  a  very  few 
instances,  of  four.      They  are   constructed   of 
stone  t  formed  by  a  congeries  of  small  cockle 

*  «  But  it  must  not  for  a  moment  be  imagined,  that  simpli- 
city of  character  is  at  all  connected  with  the  gross  ignorance 
of  a  Russian  ;  on  the  contrary,  in  cunning  he  surpasses  all 
people.  The  Greek  of  Athens,  the  Jew  of  Salonica,  even 
the  Armenian,  so  celebrated  for  his  duplicity,  must  yield  the 
palm  orjinesse  to  the  bearded  Muscovite."  —  Dr.  Macmi- 

chad's  Journey,  p.  30. 

^  Dr.  Clarke  thus  describes  it:  —  "  It  is  in  a  semi-mdu- 
rated  state;  but  like  the  Ketton-stone,  and  almost  every 
other  variety  used  for  architectural  purposes,  hardens  by 


shells,  so  soft,  when  first  removed  from  the 
quarry,  as  to  be  easily  cut  with  a  hatchet :  they 
are  then  plastered  over,  and  painted  either  of  a 
light  green,  blue,  yellow,  or  pink  colour;  the 
cornices,  architraves,  pilasters,  &c.  being  white. 
The  roofs  chiefly  consist  of  iron  plates,  which 
are  painted  bright  green  ;  but  tiles  made  in  the 
Crimea,  slates,  and  wood,  are  also  thus  employed. 
The  magazines  for  corn  are  often  of  astonishing 
magnitude ;  —  they  are  built  so  as  to  resemble 
houses,  the  windows  being  supplied  either  with 
jalousies  or  shutters  painted  green :  the  largest 
of  these  buildings  is  situated  on  the  south-eastern 
extremity  of  the  town,  and  (according  to  an  ad- 
measurement by  pacing)  appears  to  be  about  140 
yards  long  by  20  wide ;  its  height  may  be  pos- 
sibly 60  feet :  it  contains  three  floors,  besides 
cellars. 

With  respect  to  the  internal  arrangements  of 
the  houses  at  Odessa,  it  may  be  fairly  said,  that 
with  few  exceptions  they  present  little  besides 
the  bare  walls.  That  of  Count  Vorontzof  is 
splendidly  fitted  up ;  but  most  others  have  little 
furniture  in  them ;  what  there  is  being  of  a  paltry 
description.  This  observation  applies,  in  a  di- 
minished degree,  also  to  St.  Petersburg. 

All  English  travellers  who   have   given   any 


exposure  to  the  atmosphere  :  when  examined  closely,  it  ex- 
hibits, throughout  the  entire  mass,  no  other  appearance  than 
an  aggregate  of  small  cockle  shells,  all  exactly  of  the  same 
size,  perfect  in  their  forms,  but  crumbling  in  the  hand,  and 
coloured  by  the  yellow  or  red  oxide  of  iron." 


T 


208 


RISE,    PROGRESS,  AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


209 


account  of  Odessa  are  unanimous  in  their  com- 
plaints respecting  the  execrable  state  of  its  roads. 
In  winter  they  are  said  to  be  impassable  for  the 
mud,  and  in  summer  to  be  so  dusty  as  almost  to 
obstruct  respiration.  I  shall  by  no  means  imitate 
the  conduct  of  a  recent  traveller  in  Russia,  who 
wishes  to  persuade  us  that  all  the  statements  of 
his  predecessors,  which  are  not  palatable  to  the 
government,  are  exaggerated  or  wholly  untrue ; 
but  in  my  statements  will  "  nothing  extenuate, 
nor  aught  set  down  in  malice."     I  shall,  there- 
fore,  observe,  that  when  I  arrived  at  Odessa  in 
March  1828,  the  streets  were  at  least  a  foot  deep 
in  mud  and  water,  which  rendered  a  carriage 
necessary  even  to  cross  the  way ;  and  in  many 
places  there  were  deep  holes,  which  made  them 
absolutely  dangerous.     The  Governor-general, 
upon  resuming  his  functions,  ordered  some  of 
them  to  be  repaired ;  and  the  following  year,  at 
the  time  of  the  imperial  visit,  four  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  namely,  the  Strade  Chersona,  Ribas, 
Greca,  and  Richelieu,  were  in  tolerable  condition. 
But  the  remainder  are  almost  as  they  were  when 
Odessa  was  originally  laid  out ;  that  is  to  say, 
they  have  never  been  formed  into  roads  at  all : 
they  consist  of  the  rich  black  earth  of  the  Steppe, 
which,  on  a  shower  of  rain  falling,  beCDmes  thick 
mud ;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  a  few  days'  sun- 
shine transforms  it  into   dust,  and  this,  when 
raised  by  the  winds,  which  almost  constantly  pre- 
vail at  Odessa,  render  respiration  painful,  and 
must  be  highly  injurious  to  the  health  of  the  m- 


habitants.     On  these   occasions,  when  looking 
from  the  distance  of  about  a  verst  towards  the 
town,  nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  a  cloud  of  dust, 
the  place  itself  being  completely  enveloped  in  it. 
I  was  once  in  the  Strada  Chersona,  and  a  sudden 
squall   arising,  the   obscurity  immediately  pro- 
duced was  so  great,  that  the  driver  of  my  own 
carnage,  as  well  as  several  others,  pulled  up  for 
a  few  seconds,  being  unable  to  see  their  way. 
Whenever  a  complaint  is  made  that  the  roads 
are  bad  in  Odessa,  the  answer  is,  always,  that  it 
is  mpossibk  to  have  good  roads,  because  no  stone 
liard  enough  for  their  construction  exists  in  the 
neighbourhood.     I  have   always   differed  from 
this  opinion.    It  is  not  the  want  of  proper  mate- 
rials, but  the  want  of  knowing  how  to  apply  those 
materials  properly,   and   the   roguery  of  some 
oflicially  connected  with  the  roads  at  Odessa,  to 
which  must  be  attributed  their  miserable  state. 
The  stone  generally  employed  in  building  the 
houses  IS  certainly  so  soft  that  it  may  be  crumbled 
between   the  fingers,  and  is  consequently  not 
adapted  for  road-making ;  but  there  is  another 
species  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town 
scarcely  less  abundant,  which  contains  a  large 
proportion  of  iron,  and  is  sufficiently  hard  for 
the  purpose.     Drains  should  be  first  constructed 
on  one  or  both  sides  of  the  road,  which  should 
be  formed  so  as  to  incline,  either  from  its  centre 
to  both  sides,  or  from  one  side  to  the  other.    At 
present,  on  the  contrary,  the  streets  in  Odessa 
are  uniformly  concave :  the  water  has  no  means 


^10 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


of  escaping,  and  accumulates  in  large  quantities 
on  the  surface,  until  it  is  dissipated  either  by 
:;apo  ation  or  percolation.    The  found^f-  «^ 
the  road  is  thus  dissolved  and  destroyed*  ;  and 
when  the  water  is  gone,  an  almost  f  "f  J "^^^ 
of  large  holes  appear,  which,  instead  of  bemg 
i„.n.ediately  filled  up,  are  left  to  'n-ease,-^f  "^s 
occasioning  constant  inconvenience  and  perd   o 
fhe  oassen-ers.    There  are,  it  is  true,  certain 
otn'dSs  on  each  side  of  most  of  the  street. 
Xich   are    exceedingly  dangerous,  as  I  know 
from  experi*ce.  having  been  nearly  overturned 
ri  calash  by  one  of  the  horses  slipping  into 
hiXrbarousUes  of  drain  ;  but jhey  "io  "o 
serve  to  carry  off  the  water,  because  the  roads 
iriowest  in  their  centre.     These  ditches  ought 
a  once  to  be  filled  up.  as  they  answer  no  punio^ 
but  that  of  enabhng  the  town  to  levy  a  rate  for 
their  cleansing.     But  the  grand  cause  of  these 
gk ring  imperfections  has  not  yet  been  explained 
Cuery  has  done  much  more  towards  retarding 
fhe  S--  -'l  improvement  of  Odessa  than 
gnoran'e.    When  I  left  that  place  the  General 
of  En<^ineers.  who  had  had  the  management  and 
superintendence  of  the  public  works  there  was 
I  heard,  under  trial  at  St.  Petersbi.rg  for  having 
combined  with  the  contractor  in  defrauding  the 
town,  by  conniving  at  the  non-performance  of 
various  contracts  in  his  department.    For  a  cer- 
laTn  douceur  he  is  said  to  have  allowed  the  town 

.  This  observation  applies  to  four  streeU  only,  no  road* 
having  ever  been  formed  in  the  others. 


*  1         '      - 


PHESENT  STATE  OF  ODESSA.      211 

works  to  be  performed  either  with  bad  materials, 

i   f "'"  ""PTu™'""''' '''  "«*  ^t  ^» '  ^»d  this 
^  the  reason  of  their  notoriously  defective  state. 
Many  roads  were  never  made; -some  building 
at  tl  e  quarantine  was  erected  on  a  piece  of  ground 
containing  springs,  which  were  previouf v  co 
vered  with  sand  to  conceal  them  jiaTdTbrid" 
over  a  ravine  in  one  of  the  prindpal  stre^^Ja^ 
hmlt  three  times,  having  twice  fallen;  the  cir 
cumsj^nce.  as  I  was  assured  by  an  old  i^habiten 
of  Odessa,  naturally  occasioning  so  much  d"s. 
trust  as  to  its  stability  when  findly  comlttd 
that  It  was  a  long  time  before  the  townspeopre 
ventured  to  pass  over  it.     It  was  supposed  S 
the  General  must  be  found  guilty,  and.  in  co7 
-quence.  be  sent  to  Siberia!  and  alth;ugh^s" 
conduct  cannot  be  defended,  yet.  on  tracing  the 
cause  of  an  effect  so  lamentable,  mucS  be 

Xf:Tr'r ''"''''-     ^i- Emperor  knC 
well  (for  the  fact  was  represented  to  His  Majesty 

soon  af  ter  hjs  accession,  in  an  excellent  letter  from 

tfaU  ol^"'r°''^  ^'"^  ^'^^  -I--  attached 
to  all  offices  m  the  empire  are  much  too  low  •  and 

that  a  majority  of  those  who  hold  them  al' thus 
driven  to  the  exaction  of  illegal  fees    and  th. 
employment  of  other  dishonesf  means'   fo^  the 
purpose  of  being  enabled  to  support  2  ann. 
ance  which  is  expected  from  tC  '  a   En 

colonel,  84/. ;  the  governor  of  a  province  4J00 
roubles,  or  about  168/. :  the  latter^being  obS 
to  keep  a  large  house,  two  or  three  faS^ 


^12  R^SE,    PROGRESS,    AND 

and  a  host  of  servants.     All  these  gentlemen 
have  not  private  fortunes :  how  then  is  it  that 
Jhey.  -ithLt  an  exception,  contrive  to  hve  on 
a  scale  of  expense,  to  defray  which  then"  sala- 
ries  are    utterly  inadequate  V     The   answer  is 
pfain-by  extortion,  injustice,  and  dishonesty- 
One  of  these  culprits  is  sometimes  brought  to 
^ard  for  convicUon  and  condemnation,  when  t 
is  known  that  all  in  his  circumstances  must  be 
eaually  <n.ilty ;  and  thus  the  system  is  a  powerful 
:Se  of  despotism,  by  rendering  all  employes 
liible  to  punishment  whenever  it  may  be  con- 
ttL  toW  them  to  trial.     A  Governor  ot 
Moskow,  about  the  time  of  my  reaching  Russia. 

«  ..The  police,  from  iu  inquisitorial  nature,  has  infinite 
sources'^o?  ^ain  =  the,  sell  the  liberty  of  ^^^.l^;^^:'^ 
the  stranger.  P'- J^  J^^^^        ^  th     acc-ed.     Pro- 
S:r  J^e'tvltheTaUhy  -chant  with  the  per 
2   on  to  introduce  contraband  goods;  -^"f '  ^^'/J 
the  number  of  slaves  sent  by  the  se.gneur  for  the  .mpenal 
evies    they  select  the  empty-handed  peasant  for  m.htary 
se^Tce :  in  the  former  case,  the  agents  of  the  custom-house 
s  en  in  also  for  their  due  share  of  pillage;  m  the  latter  the 
ur  Jons  and  procureurs  mo.,  pari  passu,  the  example  of 
thefr  superiors      It  would  be  endless  to  attempt  a  catalogue 
f TeTInormities;  all  of  which,  nevertheless,  cu.om  has 
sanctioned  with,  as  it  were,  a  prescriptive  r.gh  .    The  sums 
ZtZe  regarded  only  as  regular  fees  or  pergmsUes  of  office. 
?^e  functionaries  themselves  have  been  bred  up  w.th  the 
LwVedgTof  no  other  system,  and  are  surprised  to  hear  a 
forer^ner  say  that  acts  which  are  done  openly  every  day 
llfrvourof  illegality  or  injustice;  in  f-t.  they  do  bu 
Zo^tke  principle  and  common  basis  of  ever,  branch  of  the 
Mssian  government."  -  James's  Tour,  vol. ..  p.  448- 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


213 


was  in  the  same  predicament  as  the  General  of 
Engineers  upon  my  leaving  it ;  and  instances 
might  easily  be  multiphed,  if  necessary,  but  these 
are  sufficient.  To  return  to  Odessa:  the  fol- 
lowing relation  will  give  some  idea  how  public 
business  is  transacted  in  that  town : — The  present 
Governor-general  wished  to  have  its  roads  paved, 

and  brought  a  Mr from  England  in  order 

to  superintend  the  work.     Fine  granite  can  be 
obtained  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Boug.  only  a 
short  distance  from  Odessa,  and  accordingly  it 
was  determined  that  this  excellent  material  should 
be  solely  employed  in  the  undertaking ;  but  as 
It  was  not  known  what  would  be  the  cost  of  the 
granite,  the  expenses  attendant  upon  its  trans- 
port,  or  which  would  be  the  most  eligible  mode 
of  conveyance  from  the  river  to  Odessa,  a  com- 
mittee  was  appointed  to  consider  these  questions, 
and  to  report  thereon  to  the  Governor-general.' 
However,  as  soon  as  the  committee  met,  instead 
of  directing  their  attention   to  the  foregoing 
minutiaj.  upon  which  alone  information  was  re- 
quired,  they  began  entering  into  discussions  a* 
to  which  would  be  the  best  species  of  road,  — - 
one  proposing  Macadamization,  another  paving, 
a  third  suggesting  that  the  work  should  be  perl 
formed  with  stone  from  Italy,  while  a  fourth 
preferred  materials  to  be  found  at  some  other 
place;   in  every  instance  the  advice  of  these 
worthy  gentlemen  being  precisely  of  the  same 
disinterested  nature  as  that  of  the  citizen  in  the 
fable,  who  was  so  well  aware  of  the  superior 

p  3 


S14 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


advantages  to  be  derived  from  constructing  the 
fortifications  of  his  native  town  with  leather. 
Thus  the  matter  remained  when  I  left  Odessa; 
and  thus,  no  doubt,  it  remains  still:  the  roads 

were  in  a  sad  condition  ;  and  Mr. ,  as  I  was 

informed,  threatened  to  return  to  England,  ob- 
serving, that  he  was  brought  from  thence  to 
Odessa  for  a  specific  purpose,  namely,  to  super- 
intend the  paving  of  the  town  in  a  particular 
manner,  and  upon  his  arrival  there  the  committee 
began  to  talk  about  doing  it  in  various  other 
ways  !    Such,  throughout  Russia,  are  the  means 
by  which  plans  for  the  public  welfare  are  per- 
verted to  the  base  purposes  of  individual  interest; 
and  this  is  the  reason  why  so  little  improvement 
does  actually  take  place,  when  so  much  is  pro- 
jected.     What  but  the  grossest  mismanagement 
in  the  local  government  of  Odessa  could  have 
permitted  that  town,  after  a  period  of  more  than 
thirty  years   from   its   foundation,   to  be   still 
without  a  supply  even  of  water,  when  there  are 
numerous  excellent  springs  on  the  sea-shore,  and 
at  no  greater  distance  than  about  four  versts  ? 
The  water  from  these  ought  to  be  collected  and 
raised  by  a  steam-engine  on  the  spot,  and  con- 
ducted into  a  large  reservoir,  which  might  be 
built  on  the  cliff  above,  from  whence  it  could 
easily  be  conveyed  by  pipes  into  every  street,  if 
not  into  every  house :   the  cost  would  not  be 
very  great ;  and  if  those  sums  which  have  been 
expended  upon  the  enormous  house  of  the  civil 
Governor,  and  his  chancery,  and  the  abortive 


PRESENT   STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


215 


steam-boat  of  Odessa,  had  been  employed  upon 
this  useful  object,  it  might  have  been  accom- 
plished. It  is  a  work  which  is  imperiously  called 
for,  in  a  place  where  the  mere  fetching  of  water 
entails  a  serious  expense  upon  every  housekeeper, 
and  where  the  intense  heats  of  summer  render 
an  abundant  supply  of  that  article  a  necessary 
of  first-rate  importance.  It  would  also  afford 
the  means  of  watering  the  streets,  which,  during 
the  whole  of  summer,  the  latter  end  of  spring, 
and  the  early  part  of  autumn,  on  account  of  the 
limestone  dust,  render  the  town  scarcely  habit- 
able. 

CLIMATE  OF    ODESSA. 

The  climate  of  Odessa  is  generally  denominated 
in  the  court  circle  «  le  climat  d'ltalie;''  and  the 
liighest  female  authority  there  designates  the 
%gy  weather,  so  common  on  the  shores  of  the 
Black  Sea,  «  le  temps  d^Angleterre:*  I  cannot, 
however,  say  that  my  own  observations,  tempered 
even  by  the  meteorological  records  of  the  most 
partial  writers,  allow  me  to  concur  in  this  flat- 
tering description  :  but  on  recollecting  that  since 
the  first  foundation  of  Odessa  it  has  been  the 
policy  of  the  Russian  government  to  raise  it  to 
importance,  in  opposition  to  every  natural  ob- 
stacle, perhaps  this  discrepancy  may  appear  less 
extraordinary. 

While  dwelling  upon  this  subject,  it  is  im- 
possible to  suppress  the  remembrance  of  those 
distressing  sensations  experienced  from  breathing 

p  4 


216 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


an  atmosphere  saturated  with  dust,  and  often 
nearly  reaching  the  temperature  of  100®  of  Fah- 
renheit; nor  can  I  forget  the  change  to  such 
cold  as  16**  of  Reaumur  below  zero.  I  shall  not, 
however,  permit  these  unpleasant  recollections 
to  exert  an  undue  influence  over  my  mind  in 
the  following  remarks,  since  years  of  constant 
observations  are  requisite  to  form  just  conclusions 
upon  the  general  character  of  a  climate.  But 
these  recollections,  combined  with  the  knowledge 
of  other  circumstances  acquired  on  the  spot,  will, 
in  extracting  information  from  the  best  sources, 
enable  me  in  some  degree  to  discover  how  far 
feelings  of  partiality  or  motives  of  interest  may 
nave  softened  the  natural  asperities  of  that  under 
consideration,  in  the  hope  of  assimilating  its 
features  with  those  of  the  "  climat  (Tltalie.** 

"  Well  may  they  venture  on  the  mimic's  art, 
Who  play  from  morn  to  night  a  borrowed  part ; 
Practised  their  masters  notions  to  embrace. 
Repeat  his  maxims,  and  reflect  his  face  ; 
With  evry  loild  absurdity  comply, 
And  view  each  object  with  another's  eye ; 
To  shake  with  laughter,  ere  the  jest  they  hear, 
To  pour  at  will  the  counterfeited  tear  ; 
And  as  their  patron  hints  the  cold  or  heat. 
To  shake  in  dog-days,  in  December  stoeat; 
Hotv,  when  competitors  like  these  contend, 
Can  surly  Virtue  hope  to  fix  a  friend'^  " 

The  town  of  Odessa  is  built  upon  a  cliff  rising 
almost  perpendicularly  to  the  height  of  twenty- 
one  segenes  above  the  level  of  the  Black  Sea,  by 
which  it  is  bounded  on  tlie  south-east.     It  is  si- 


k\ 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


217 


tuated  in  latitude  46*  25'  north,  and  in  longitude 
30°  30'  east.  *  On  the  inland  side  it  is  sur- 
rounded  by  an  almost  perfectly  level  steppe,  des- 
titute  of  wood,  excepting  the  shrubs  and  fruit 
trees  of  the  neighbouring  gardens,  which  are  too 
inconsiderable  to  obstruct  the  wind  or  afford 
shelter  from  the  sun. 

I  shall  now  give  the  substance  of  Castelnau's 
account  of  the  climate  under  consideration  ; 
afterwards  avail  myself  of  extracts  from  the 
Odessa  Journal  ;  and,  ultimately,  subjoin  my 
own  observations  upon  them,  with  an  account  of 
the  climate  as  I  found  it. 

"  The  air  on  the  shores  of  the  Black  Sea," 
says  the  above  author,  « though  extremely  keen 
in  consequence  of  the  strong  wind,  is  at  Odessa 
particularly  calculated  to  strengthen  the  weakest 
constitutions,  with  the  exception  of  such  as  are 
subject  to  affections  of  the  lungs.  The  winds 
are  extremely  variable ;  June,  July,  and  a  part 
of  August,  being  the  only  months  in  which  any 
degree  of  constancy  may  be  expected  in  them  : 
the  north  wind  is  then  usually  prevalent,  which, 
however,  fails  to  temper  the  heat— having  lost  all 
refreshing  powers  in  its  long  passage  through  the 
heated  air.  In  summer,  Reaumur's  thermometer 
ranges  from  +  \T  to  -|-  26° ;  but  the  latter  tem- 
perature never  continues  for  a  week  together, 
and  was  never  exceeded,  during  ten  years,  by 
more  than  half  a  degree,  and  that  only  on  a  single 

*  Vide  Arrowsmith's  *<  Index  to  the  Eton  Comparative 
Atlas.*' 


\ 


218 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT   STATE   OF   ODESSA, 


219 


day.  Such  is  the  mild  nature  of  the  glowing  sun, 
that  those  employments  most  inconvenienced  by 
its  rays  are  never  neglected  at  Odessa  during  the 
hottest  and  most  brilliant  weather.  A  mason, 
while  whitening  the  surface  of  a  southern  wall, 
feels  no  disagreeable  effects  from  the  sun*s  re- 
flection ;  nor  does  the  stone-cutter,  though  slum- 
bering bare-headed  on  his  work,  experience  the 
slightest  injury  from  such  exposure  to  its  heat: 
the  wind  alone  offers  any  annoyance.  At  Odessa 
the  heat  never  confines  a  person  to  the  house ; 
while  at  Geneva,  Ma9on,  Gueret,  and  La  llo- 
chelle,  under  the  same  latitude,  the  streets  are 
deserted  from  two  o'clock  till  four.  In  other 
countries,  the  great  heats  of  summer  produce 
sensations  of  extreme  lassitude  and  oppression 
which  are  unknown  at  Odessa.  The  long  train 
of  waggons  which  are  constantly  ploughing  up  the 
roads  leading  to  that  town,  augment  the  clouds 
of  dust,  which  the  winds  on  the  western  shores  of 
the  Black  Sea  are  alone  sufficient  to  keep  in  con- 
stant circidation :  but  this  dust  is  not  injurious 
to  the  eyes,  like  that  of  Naples  or  Vienna;  and 
though  in  principle  earthy  particles  are  noxious 
to  respiration,  it  is  equally  certain  that  no  injury 
has  been  experienced  from  this  circumstance  at 
Odessa. 

"  It  is  possible  that  the  fogs  which  overshadow 
the  Black  Sea  in  autumn,  winter,  and  spring, 
may  have  occasioned  the  appellation  which  it 
bears. 

"  In  some  years  thunder  is  scarcely  heard. 


while  in  others  the  activity  of  the  electric  fluid 
is  evinced  in  the  most  awful  manner.  It  ap- 
pears, however,  that  Odessa  has  a  peculiar  charm 
against  its  effects ;  for  out  of  twenty  storms, 
forming  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  scarcely 
three  break  over  the  town,  which  remains  often 
unspotted  by  rain,  when  quantities  have  fallen 
within  a  league  around  it.  Hail  never  blasts  the 
hopes  of  a  whole  district :  it  may  sometimes 
destroy  the  crops  of  particular  fields,  but  never 
injures  generally. 

"  The  temperature  of  winter  must  necessarily 
depend  upon  the  direction  of  the  winds :  these 
vary  to  infinity  ;  but  the  custom  of  the  people  is 
constantly  the  same.  They  never  trust  to  the 
snow  in  the  south  of  Russia ;  but,  in  travelling 
from  the  several  quarters  towards  Odessa,  ex- 
change their  sledge-beds  for  wheels  at  Doubossari, 
Balta  Kief;  Krementchoug,  and  Ekaterinoslaf. 
Spring  commences  with  the  month  of  April,  and 
by  the  fifteenth  the  country  is  invariably  covered 
with  verdure.  The  rains  of  this, season  decide 
the  nature  of  the  crops :  out  of  ten  years,  two  may 
be  considered  scanty ;  but  a  complete  failure  is 
never  known.  Spring  is  but  of  short  duration, 
the  transition  from  cold  to  heat  being  exceed- 
ingly  rapid  ;  but  this  deficiency  of  vernal  weather 
IS  almost  always  compensated  by  a  fine  autumn.'' 

The  following  observations  on  the  tempe- 
rature of  ten  successive  winters  are  given  by 
Castelnau,  as  the  result  of  his  own  experience. 


^20 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  temperature  of  the 
corresponding  summers  should  not  have  been 

noticed  :  — 

"  1805.  —  The  winter  was  inconstant,  without 
being  severe  :  the  coldest  weather  lasted  seven- 
teen days.  The  thermometer  varied  from  3°  to 
10°  of  Reaumur  below  zero. 

«<  1806.  —  The  weather  this  year  could  hardly 
be  called  winter:  the  greatest  cold  was  11** 
below  zero,  which  only  lasted  two  days. 

i<  I807. — The  whole  winter  only  comprised 
twenty  cold  days,  between  the  temperature  of 
zero  and  nine  degrees  below  it.  On  the  22d  of 
December  we  dined  without  fire,  and  with  the 
doors  and  windows  open. 

"  1808.  —  November  was  mild.  In  December 
there  were  six  days  of  from  3°  to  T  of  heat  *  ; 
often  during  the  winter  the  thermometer  stood  at 
8°,  10%  14%  twice  at  16°,  and  one  day  at  19*^ 
above  zero.     The  cold  did  not  commence  till 

February. 

a  18O9.  —  December,  four  days  from  6°  to  7° 
of  heat;  the  11th  of  January,  18°  below  zero; 
on  the  19th,  1^  above  it.  Perpetual  variations 
from  0  to  +  7°  and  +  12°. 

ii  1810.  —  From  the  9th  to  the  17th  of  De- 

*  In  Russia,  Reaumur*s  thermometer  is  invariably  made 
use  of,  in  which  the  freezing  point  is  denoted,  by  0  (zero); 
but,  in  common  conversation,  the  temperature  is  usually  de- 
scribed by  saying  that  there  are  so  many  degrees  of  heat  of 
cold,  instead  of  saying  that  it  is  so  many  degrees  above  ( -}- ) 
or  below  (— )  zero. 


PRESENT   STATE    OF   ODESSA. 


221 


cember  the  weather  was  constantly  severe,  vary, 
ing  from  0  to  -  17°  ;  but  very  fine  till  the  22d 
of  February. 

"1811.  —  The  winter  very  fine,  but  constantly 
cold ;  the  thermometer  ranging  from  6°  to  14° 
below  zero,  its  lowest  point  being  -  17^  Slight 
cold  prevailed  in  February. 

"  1812.  —  The  winter  severe;  December  ex- 
tremely cold ;  temperature  often  15°  or  18°  be- 
low  zero ;  in  January  constantly  ^°,  5°,  7°,  9°  of 
cold. 

"  1813.  —  November  and  December  mild, 
excepting  the  20th  of  the  latter  month,  when 
the  thermometer  fell  to  18°  below  zero:  it  rose 
again,  two  days  after,  to  13°,  and  again  to  6°. 
In  January  the  cold  continued  very  severe,  the 
mercury  sinking  to  20°  and  21°  below  the  freez- 
ing point. 

"1814.  —  The  winter  only  commenced  on  the 
5th  of  February.  There  were  fifteen  days  of 
severe  cold,  varying  from  5°,  10°,  14°,  to  18° 
below  zero. 

"  During  four  of  these  years  the  snow  disap- 
peared  in  a  few  days ;  in  three  others  it  lasted 
for  a  fortnight ;  and  remained  upon  the  ground 
for  the  space  of  two  months  during  the  other 
three  winters." 

The  Odessa  Journal  states  the  winters  to  be, 
generally  speaking,  mild ;  the  thermometer  sel- 
dom  ranging  lower  than  10°  below  zero,  and 
usually  evincing  some  degree  of  heat  during  the 
day.     The  following    extremes  of  temperature 


:r; 


222 


RISE,    PROGRESS,   AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF   ODESSA. 


223 


are  given  in  that  journal  for  the  under-mentioned 

years :  — 

"1821. — The  greatest  degree  of  heat  was 
22°.5,  and  the  lowest  depression  of  the  thermo- 
meter  17°  below  zero. 

«  1822.  —The  highest  temperature  was  25° 
above,  and  the  greatest  degree  of  cold  10°  below 

zero. 

«  1823. — The  thermometer  rose  to  23°  above, 
and  descended  to  14^.5  below  the  freezing  point. 

«  1824.— The  greatest  degree  of  heat  was  23° 
above,  and  the  least  T  below  zero. 

"  1827.  —The  thermometer  reached  the  in- 
tense heat  of  30°.5,  which  is  said  to  be  the 
highest  temperature  to  which  this  climate  is  sub- 
ject.    Its  lowest  depression  was  l6°  below  zero." 

The  same  Journal  also  contains  tables  of  tlie 
mean  temperature  for  the  above  years ;  but  as  it 
appears  from  a  subsequent  note  that  these  tables 
were  constructed  from  observations  made  at  nine 
in  the  mornings  before  the  sun  had  time  or  power 
to  warm  the  air,  and  again  at  nine  in  the  evenings 
long  after  it  had  ceased  to  shed  its  scorching  rays, 
they  cannot  convey  any  adequate  impression  of 
the  real  daily  temperature. 

The  following  brief  account  of  the  climate  is 
extracted  in  substance  from  observations  con- 
tained in  various  articles  on  that  subject  in  the 

above  Journal. 

«  The  variations  of  temperature  at  Odessa  are 
extremely  frequent,  not  only  in  the  course  of  the 
year,  but  also  in  the  short  space  of  twenty-four 


hours ;  but  they  are  never  so  great  as  to  have 
any  dangerous  consequences.  These  changes 
take  place  chiefly  in  spring  and  autumn ;  they 
are  more  rare  in  winter,  and  never  occur  in  sum- 
mer. Spring  and  autumn  are  the  most  agreeable 
periods  of  the  year :  fine  weather  appears  by  the 
end  of  February ;  but  it  again  changes  in  March, 
when  the  terrible  winds  (common  to  the  equi- 
noxes) begin  to  blow.  The  weather  becomes 
beautiful  by  the  month  of  April ;  the  trees  are 
in  full  bud,  the  plains  clothed  with  verdure,  and 
sometimes  even  the  livery  of  spring  is  assumed 
in  December  and  January.  By  the  month  of 
May  the  thermometer  already  rises  to  21°  of 
Reaumur  (equal  to  80**  of  Fahrenheit). 

"  The  atmosphere  of  Odessa  is  remarkable  for 
its  dryness :  in  the  months  of  June  and  July  the 
sky  is  often  perfectly  serene  for  weeks  together ; 
the  droughts  continuing,  almost  without  inter- 
ruption, during  the  whole  of  the  summer.     In 
the  great  heats,  which  commence  with  June  and 
last  till  August,  it  is  impossible  to  remain  out  of 
doors  during  the  middle  of  the  day ;  and  the 
almost  perfect  absence  of  humidity  makes  the 
leaves,  in  July  and  August,  fade  and  wither  upon 
the  trees,  while  the  grass  is  parched  to  a  cinder. 
The  winds  which  prevail  at  the  autumnal  equi- 
nox are  not  so  violent  as  those  of  the  vernal. 
In  September  the  thermometer  still  rises  in  the 
shade  to+  19<'  (76°  of  Fahrenheit);  the  weather 
retaining  some  warmth  till  the  middle  of  October, 
towards  the  end  of  which  rains  set  in,  and  the 


? 


^24 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


weather  becomes  cold ;  but  it  seldom  freezes  till 
November,  which  is  the  most  rainy  and  disagree- 
able month  of  the  whole  year." 

Having  thus  given  the  best  general  accounts 
of  the  climate  I  have  been  able  to  procure,  I  shall 
next  detail,  particularly,  the  successive  changes 
to  which  it  is  subject  in  the  course  of  the  year ; 
and  afterwards  offer  some  remarks  upon  the  dis- 
crepancies existing  in  these  sources  of  inform- 
ation ;  and,  finally,  endeavour  to  draw  a  few  con- 
clusions respecting  the  real  nature  of  the  climate 
of  Odessa. 

The  winter  of  1827-8  commenced  from  the 
end  of  November  with  strong  frosts  and  heavy 
falls  of  snow,  which,  however,  soon  disappeared ; 
and  its  severity  was  supposed  to  be  over,  when, 
towards  the  beginning  of  the  year  1828,  the  north 
wind  prevailed  almost  uninterruptedly,  and  the 
cold  returned  with  redoubled  vigour.  By  the  8th 
of  January  the  country  was  covered  with  deep 
snow,  which  continually  acquired  fresh  accumu- 
lations. On  the  night  of  the  l6th  of  January 
the  sky  became  clear,  and  the  thermometer  de- 
scended to  22°  below  the  freezing  point.  The 
military  port  and  the  quarantine  harbour  were 
so  completely  frozen,  that  no  vessel  could  ap- 
proach within  a  very  considerable  distance.  On 
the  morning  of  the  18th  the  mercury  fell  to 
23°  below  zero  in  the  town,  and  to  24®  in  the 
country;  and  two  hours  after  noon,  notwithstand- 
ing the  most  magnificent  sun,  (tempered,  how- 
ever, with  a  north  wind,)  it  did  not  ascend  above 


PRESENT  STATE  OF  ODESSA. 


225 


19°  below  the  freezing  point.     On  the   same 
day  the  barometer  rose  to  30  in.     On  the  19th 
the  wind  lulled  and  veered  round  to  the  south- 
ward ;  and  on  the  21st  a  thaw  commenced,  when 
the  sea  was  soon  freed  from  the  ice  with  which 
it  had  been  encumbered.  On  the  2d  of  February 
the  cold  again  acquired  fresh  strength  ;  the  ther- 
mometer, on  the  morning  of  the  7th,  descending 
to  15°  below  zero.     The  port  became  once  more 
blocked  up,  and  continued  so  till  the  breaking 
up  of  the  ice  on  the  2d  of  March.     The  tempe- 
rature of  this  month  was  exceedingly  variable  : 
after  the  20th  the  thermometer  did  not  descend 
below  zero ;  and  once  or  twice  it  reached  64°  of 
Fahrenheit.    Southerly  winds,  often  very  boiste- 
rous, prevailed  almost  the  whole  of  the  month. 
The  weather  was  frequently  misty ;  and  fog  en- 
veloped the  town  for  two  entire  days.     It  rained 
on  five   days;  snow  fell  three  times,  and  hail 
once.     In  the  early  part  of  April,  Fahrenheit's 
thermometer  rose  in  the  middle  of  the  day  to 
45°  and  55'' ;  falling  in  the  evening  to  the  freez- 
ing point.     By  the  10th  it  marked  at  noon  64° 
but  varied  greatly  on  the  succeeding  days  ;  and 
often  fell  in  the  evening  20°  and  25°  below  the 
noon   temperature.     Southerly  winds  prevailed 
about  twenty  days ;  among  the  variable  winds, 
the  north-westerly  was  most  usually  prevalent 

The  temperature  of  May  was  exceedingly 
changeable.  On  the  9th  and  10th  the  noon 
temperature  was  73°  and  77°,  with  the  wind  at 
south:    on  the  11th,  with    a  north-east  wind, 

Q 


r 


\  I 


i 


226 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


227 


the  thermometer  onlv  rose  to  58°  :  on  the  30th 
it  reached  86°.  Southerly  winds,  as  usual,  pre- 
vailed about  half  the  month :  those  from  other 
points  were  very  variable ;  and  four  or  five  rare 
instances  occurred  where  they  were  easterly. 
Light  rain  fell  on  seven  days. 

On  the  1st  of  June  the  thermometer  at  mid- 
day  marked  86°;  and  for  the  first  ten  days,  during 
the  prevalence  of  southerly  winds,  it  continued 
to  reach  this  altitude.  Northerly  winds  cooled 
the  air  a  little  in  the  middle  of  the  month  ;  but 
towards  its  end  the  temperature  once  more  in- 
creased, the  wind  being  again  from  the  south  ; 
and  on  the  29th  the  thermometer  reached  93^ 
Thunder  and  lightning  occurred  once  during  the 
month,  and  rain  fell  four  times ;  the  southerly 
wind  prevailing  more  than  half  the  month. 

In  July  the  weather  became  intensely  hot; 
and  the  winds,  as  usual,  proceeded  for  five  and 
six  days  consecutively  from  the  south.  On  the 
1st  of  the  month  the  thermometer  at  noon 
marked  89" ;  on  the  3d  and  5th,  94° ;  on  the 
9th  it  rose  to  96^  and  on  the  10th  to  98" ;  it 
stood  at  93°  on  the  11th,  12th,  13th,  and  l6th ; 
on  the  26th  it  reached  99°,  and  on  the  28th  and 
29th  it  was  at  94".  Thunder  and  lightning  oc- 
curred twice,  and  light  showers  of  rain  fell  eight 

or  nine  times. 

On  the  1st  of  August  the  thermometer  marked 
87°,  and  continued  ranging  till  the  20th  between 
82°  and  92°,  afler  w^hich  it  averaged  about  80° 
or  82° ;  and  only  once  rose  to  87°.     For  about 


twenty  days  the  winds  which  prevailed  were 
from  the  south  ;  during  the  rest  of  the  month 
they  were  from  the  north.  Rain  fell  on  six  days, 
and  fog  occurred  once. 

The  temperature  of  September  was  exceed- 
ingly variable,  and  not  very  high.  From  the  1st 
to  the  3d  the  mercury  rose  to  82°  ;  after  which, 
influenced  by  northerly  breezes,  it  fell,  and  con- 
tinued for  some  days  as  low  as  66\  On  the 
15th  and  l6th,  afler  several  days  of  southerly 
winds,  it  rose  again  to  85° ;  and  on  the  17th, 
18th,  and  19th,  it  fell  to  62°,  dd"",  and  52° ;  but 
rose  again,  with  south  winds,  to  68°,  which  was 
the  noon  temperature  on  the  last  day  of  the 
month.  The  winds  proceeded,  nearly  equally, 
from  the  south,  north,  and  west :  it  rained  five 
times,  —  on  two  days  very  heavily  :  several  days 
of  foggy  and  misty  weather  also  occurred. 

For  the  first  fortnight  in  October,  the  south 
wind  prevailed  without  interruption ;  after  which 
every  variety  occurred.  From  the  1st  to  the 
15th  the  temperature  gradually  decreased  from 
67°  to  dS"" ;  on  the  l6th,  with  the  wind  at  east- 
north-east,  the  thermometer  fell  to  43°  ;  and  at 
nine  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  it  had 
descended  to  the  freezing  point,  but  rose  at  noon 
to  46°,  which  was  the  average  noon  temperature 
till  the  end  of  the  month.  Fogs  made  their  ap- 
pearance on  several  successive  days,  and  it  rained 
on  seven. 

From  the  5th  to  the  10th  of  November  the 
thermometer,  with  a  north  and  north-east  wind, 

Q  2 


I 


1 


{ 


A 


S^  -. 


i2S 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


fell  at  noon  several  degrees  below  the  freezing 
point;  on  the  11th  it  rose,  with  a  south  wind, 
some  degrees  above  it ;  and  till  the  18th  the 
temperature  averaged,  at  noon,  45°.  At  mid- 
day on  the  19th,  after  a  long  succession  of 
southerly  winds,  it  suddenly  rose  to  55°  ;  and 
the  following  day,  with  a  north  wind,  fell  to  38®. 
On  the  23d,  at  noon,  with  a  north  wind  (which 
prevailed  to  the  end  of  the  month,)  the  thermo- 
meter did  not  rise  above  the  freezing  point ;  and 
afterwards  continued  several  degrees  below  it  for 
the  remainder  of  November.  The  w  inds,  during 
half  this  month,  blew  from  the  north  ;  and  from 
the  south  about  ten  days.  Fogs  prevailed  eight 
days  :  rain  fell  on  three. 

At  noon,  on  the  1st  of  December,  the  ther- 
mometer stood  at  the  freezing  point,  and  varied, 
during  the  month,  several  degrees  above  or  be- 
low it,  according  to  the  direction  of  the  winds, 
which  were  exceedingly  changeable;  descending, 
occasionally,  to  10°  of  Reaumur  below  zero, 
which  was  the  temperature  of  the  last  day  of  the 
year  1828.  Snow  fell  on  four  days ;  the  first 
time  on  the  fifth.     It  rained  thrice. 

Being  absent  at  St.  Petersburg,  or  on  my  route 
to  Odessa,  during  the  first  two  months  of  1828, 
I  must  here  remark,  that  the  description  of  the 
weather  for  that  period  is  extracted  from  the 
various  details  contained  in  the  Odessa  Journal ; 
but  as  the  following  winter,  the  whole  of  which 
passed  under  my  own  observation,  corresponded 
exactly,  in  general  appearance,  with  the  one  just 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


229 


noticed,  and  only  differed  in  the  thermometer 
evincing  a  few  degrees  less  severity  in  the  cold, 
it  may  be  considered  as  a  fair  specimen  of  the 
weather  I  experienced ;  and,  consequently,  I  have 
confined  myself  to  the  changes  of  one  entire  year, 
in  preference  to  giving  parts  of  two. 

The  foregoing  details  are  not  calculated  to 
confirm  the  favourable  ideas  of  the  climate  which 
the  authorities  I  have  quoted  seem  anxious  to 
convey ;  nor  will  their  own  account  of  the  ex- 
tremes of  temperature  to  which  it  is  subject  tend 
to  corroborate  the  rest  of  their  statements.  Both 
evince  a  desire  to  impress  the  reader  with  the 
mild  nature  of  the  winter ;  and  yet  they  admit 
the  thermometer  to  have  generally  descended 
so  low  as  10°  and  15°  of  Reaumur  below  the 
freezing  point,  often  to  have  fallen  to  16°  and 
18*,  sometimes  to  20°,  22°,  23°,  and  once  even 
to  24°  below  zero.  The  cold  has,  no  doubt, 
been  occasionally  very  transient ;  but  though  its 
short  duration  may  exempt  the  winter  from  the 
title  of  severe,  and  procure  for  it  the  variable 
character  to  which  the  sudden  transitions  of 
temperature  entitle  it,  this  circumstance  cannot 
claim  for  it  the  unqualified  character  of  mildness. 
We  consider  our  late  winter  in  England  to  have 
been  extremely  severe;  yet  the  thermometer 
never  descended  lower  than  8^  or  10°  of  Reau- 
mur below  the  freezing  point. 

Castelnau  states  the  greatest  heat  he  expe- 
rienced to  have  been  -f  26|^°  of  Reaumur,  which 
only  continued  for  one  day.     He  also  observes, 

Q  3 


230 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE   OF    ODESSA. 


231 


that  it  is  never  so  oppressive  as  to  inconvenience 
the  workmen  in  their  respective  occupations,  or 
to  produce  that  debilitating  effect  upon  the  sys- 
tem common  in  hot  climates. 

The  Odessa  Journal  equally  endeavours  to 
soften  the  inconveniences  experienced  from  the 
heat,  by  extolling  the  salubrity  of  the  climate, 
and  dwelling  upon  the  delightful  coolness  of  the 
night ;  but,  nevertheless,  admits  the  thermometer 
to  range  agreeably  to  the  summer  temperature  I 
have  given,  and  states  it  to  have  once  risen  to 
+  30^°  of  Reaumur  (about  102^  of  Fahrenheit); 
and  instead  of  denying  the  oppressive  nature  of 
the  heat,  expressly  says,  that,  during  the  great 
heats  of  summer,  il  is  impossible  to  remain  out  of 
doors  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

Both  complain  of  the  wind  and  dust  as  sources 
of  annoyance ;  but  Castelnau  denies  that  the 
latter,  like  that  of  Naples  or  Vienna,  has  any 
injurious  effect  upon  the  eyes  or  the  lungs  !  My 
own  experience,  however,  obliges  me  to  differ 
entirely  from  the  opinion  of  this  noble  and  ta- 
lented author,  having  met  with  decided  instances 
to  the  contrary,  in  both  respects  ;  and,  as  a  proof 
of  the  inconvenience  occasioned  to  the  eyes,  I 
must  here  remark,  that  prior  to  my  departure 
from  Odessa,  glasses  were  becoming  very  gene- 
rally adopted,  as  a  means  of  protecting  them 
from  the  earthy  particles  almost  constantly  float- 
ing in  the  air.  During  the  long  droughts  of 
summer,  the  strong  winds  which  constantly  pre*, 
vail  at  Odessa  create  such  clouds  of  dust,  that 


1^ 


the  atmosphere  is  often  completely  obscured. 
Under  peculiar  circumstances,  the  reflection  of 
the  sun's  rays  from  these  clouds  is  so  brilliant, 
and  in  passing  through  the  denser  parts  becomes 
so  deeply  tinged  with  red,  that,  from  a  distance, 
the  town  presents  the  appearance  of  being  enve- 
loped in  flames  and  smoke.  The  deception  was 
so  perfect  when  I  first  observed  it,  that  I  did  not 
discover  the  optical  delusion  until  I  had  atten- 
tively regarded  it  for  some  minutes,  and  had 
approached  nearer  to  the  town.  In  winter  the 
streets  are  often  (as  I  have  before  observed), 
during  the  absence  of  frost,  nearly  impassable, 
from  the  depth  of  mud  with  which  they  are 
covered ;  but  this  inconvenience  is  more  attri- 
butable to  the  gross  neglect  of  the  local  authori- 
ties in  not  repairing  them,  than  to  the  excessive 
quantity  of  rain  fallen.  In  summer  the  want 
of  rain  is  greatly  complained  of:  though  light 
showers  occasionally  fall,  and  sometimes  such  as 
deserve  a  tropical  character,  the  earth  is  so 
parched  that  their  effects  are  only  transitory ;  — 
drooping  nature  soon  resumes  her  dusty  garb, 
and  everything  again  evinces  the  want  of  moists 
ure.  I  have  been  unable  to  procure  any  regular 
estimate  of  the  annual  quantity  of  rain  fallen  at 
Odessa,  but  it  is  generally  stated  as  exceedingly 
small. 

The  winds,  according  to  Castelnau,  are  ex- 
tremely troublesome  and  variable;  the  only 
constancy  being  in  the  north  wind,  during  the 
months  of  June,  July,  and  part  of  August.    My 

Q  4 


1 1 

1  ■ 


7 


i 


232 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


own   experience   does  not  confirm   this   latter 
observation:  on  the  contrary,  the  south  wind, 
during  my  residence,  prevailed  much  more  in 
summer  than  any  other,  and  was  also  more  con- 
stant  throughout  the  year ;  which  is  corroborated 
by  a  table  of  winds  given  in  the  Odessa  Journal, 
from  observations  made  twice  a  day  between  the 
1st  of  March,  1820,  and  the  28th  of  February, 
1825.     This  table  shows  the  south  wind  to  have 
existed  oftener  by  131  times,  or  65j  days,  than 
the  north,  which  last  was  observed  in  668  in- 
stances.     The  west  wind  prevailed  more  by  23 
observations  than  the  east,  the  latter  having  oc- 
curred 292  times.     The  north-west  exceeded  by 
149  the  amount  of  the  south-west,  which  existed 
during  328    observations;   and    the   north-east 
wind  was  of  more  frequent  occurrence  by  26 
times  than  the   south-east,    this  being  noticed 
on  353   occasions.     A  total  cessation  of  wind 
only  happened  49  times  during  the  whole  five 
years.     The  proportion  of  easterly  winds   was 
considerably  less  during  my  residence  than  those 
from  any  other  quarter. 

Castelnau  remarks  the  occasional  absence  of 
thunder  and  lightning  for  years  together ;  and 
observes  that  if  the  crops  are  often  a  prey  to 
swarms  of  devouring  locusts,  they  are  secure 
from  the  ravages  of  hail.  I  believe  no  experi^ 
ments  have  been  made  at  Odessa,  to  ascertain 
the  degree  of  atmospheric  electricity;  but,  though 
I  witnessed  several  smart  thunder  storms,  during 
my  residence  there,  I  am  inclined  to  infer  from 


/ 


PRESENT   STATE   OF    ODESSA. 


233 


analogy,  that  the  electric  fluid,  generally  speak- 
ing, is  much  less  active  than  in  our  own  country; 
for  hail  is  certainly  of  more  rare  occurrence :  and 
my  brother.  Captain  Morton,  remarks  in  a  paper 
on  the  subject*,  that  hail  is  unknown  within  the 
Arctic  circle,  where  the  electric  fluid  is  too  weak 
to  affect  the  electrometer ;  and  goes  far  to  prove 
that  it  "  is  the  frequent  attendant  on  thunder 
and  lightning,  because  it  is  the  oflTspring  of  elec- 
tricity.'* 

Until  the  winter  of  1827  sledges  were  not 
used  for  travelling  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Odessa;  a  fact  which  certainly  indicates  the 
general  existence  of  some  real  or  supposed  im- 
pediment to  this  expeditious  and  convenient 
mode  of  conveyance.  The  customs  of  a  country, 
though  sometimes  arising  from  superstitious  or 
erroneous  notions,  are  generally  founded  in 
reason :  —  a  mild  climate  may  become  severe ; 
and  a  practice  once  established,  may  remain 
long  after  the  original  cause  of  its  institution 
has  ceased  to  exist.  But  a  cheap  and  expe- 
ditious mode  of  travelling  could  never,  without 
good  reason,  have  been  exchanged  for  a  more 
inconvenient  and  expensive  one.  I  must,  there- 
fore, conclude  that  the  climate  was  so  mild  as 
to  render  sledge  conveyance  impossible,  or  so 
variable  as  to  make  it  too  precarious  for  general 
adoption.  The  latter  will  appear  most  probable ; 
for  though,  according  to  the  ten  years'  observ- 

*  "  On  the  Formation  of  Hail.'*— Vide  Gentleman's  Maga- 
zine, vols.  xci.  and  xcii.,  and  London  Philosophical  Magazine. 


234 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


P 


1 


ations  of  Castelnau,  the  winters  were  sometimes 
mild,  and  at  others  of  short  duration,  the  cold  was, 
nevertheless,  often  intensely  severe:  and  the  oc- 
casional severity  of  the  weather  is  also  confirmed 
by  the  five  years*  observations  extracted  from 
the  Odessa  Journal,  as  well  as  the  successive 
winters  of  these  three  last  years,  during  which 
the  Black  Sea  at  Odessa  was  completely  frozen 
up.  From  the  exposed  situation  of  Odessa,  the 
temperature  of  its  winter  must  depend  greatly 
upon  the  direction  and  strengtii  of  the  winds : 
when  sweeping  from  the  north  over  extensive 
tracts  of  frozen  regions,  uninterrupted  for  many 
hundreds  of  miles  by  mountains,  its  influence  is 
severely  felt ;  and  when  it  veers  to  the  south, 
with  a  clear  sky,  the  air  becomes  mild,  and  the 
sun  exerts  a  considerable  degree  of  power.  It 
sometimes  happens,  from  a  combination  of  fa- 
vourable circumstances,  that  real  spring  weather 
is  experienced  in  winter.  In  18^26,  flowers  are 
said  to  have  been  in  full  bloom  in  the  open  air 
at  Christmas.  But,  dependent  on  the  wind  for 
its  temperature,  the  season  in  question  is  subject 
to  the  numerous  and  sudden  revolutions  of  this 
fickle  element.  In  January,  1829,  a  change 
of  wind,  from  north  to  south,  produced  a  va- 
riation in  the  temperature,  amounting  to  up- 
wards of  50°  of  Fahrenreit.  The  same  occurs  in  a 
change  from  east  to  south  or  west.  In  summer 
the  wind,  being  pretty  generally  heated,  has 
comparatively  little  influence  on  the  temperature, 
and  sometimes  evinces  none  whatever ;  for  on 


\ 


' 


PRESENT  STATE  OF  ODESSA. 


235 


I 


the  10th  of  July,  notwithstanding  a  northerly 
wind  had  prevailed  for  two  days,  the  thermometer 
rose  to  gS'',  being  some  degrees  higher  than  on 
any  previous  day  that  year. 

Long  extracts  from  meteorological  records 
must,  in  the  most  able  hands,  prove  but  unin- 
teresting to  those  who  have  no  particular  object 
in  ascertaining  the  real  nature  of  a  climate ;  it 
would,  therefore,  even  had  I  time,  ill  repay  any 
labour  that  might  be  bestowed  in  endeavouring 
to  arrange  them  in  a  more  elegant  and  amusing 
manner.  Such  individuals  as  are  anxious  for 
correct  information  on  the  subject  will  here  find, 
however  ill-digested,  a  good  deal  of  matter 
faithfully  recorded,  and  they  will  be  able  to 
form  their  own  opinions  as  to  the  nature  of  the 
climate  of  Odessa.  I  shall  merely  observe  that 
the  conclusions  I  feel  compelled  to  draw  from 
the  evidence  of  the  quoted  authorities,  aided  by 
experience  acquired  on  the  spot,  do  not  permit 
me  to  paint  it  in  the  vivid  colours  peculiar  to  the 
**climat  d' Italic ;**  and  although  from  the  short 
period  of  my  residence  in  Odessa,  I  feel  unable 
to  decide  positively  upon  its  general  salubrity  or 
insalubrity,  yet  1  cannot  but  believe  it  by  no 
means  favourable  to  health.  My  experience  as 
a  physician  enables  me  to  say,  that  during  the 
great  heats  of  summer,  dysentery  is  frequent  and 
sometimes  rapidly  fatal ;  while  at  the  latter  end 
of  winter  and  the  beginning  of  spring,  affections 
of  the  chest  are  both  common  and  severe :  in 
addition  to  which,  intermittent  and   remittent 


'^ 


^36 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


237 


fevers  prevail,  more  or  less,  in  spring  and  au- 
tumn, and  are  often  unusually  obstinate.  The 
greatest  mortality  takes  place  in  June,  July,  and 
August,  chiefly  from  diseases  produced  by  the 
intense  heat  which  prevails  in  those  months  ;  and 
the  next  greatest  number  in  March,  principally 
from  various  pulmonic  complaints.  Finally,  it 
must  be  mentioned  as  an  universal  observation 
among  parents  at  Odessa,  that  children  can  seldom 
be  reared  there;  and  although  I  cannot  pretend  to 
confirm  this  axiom  from  my  own  experience,  yet 
I  conceive  it  to  be  unquestionable  that  the 
number  of  deaths  among  children  in  that  town, 
is  unusually  great.  The  badness  of  the  water  is 
generally  considered  to  be  its  cause;  but  erro- 
neously :  the  mortality  in  question  ought  rather 
to  be  attributed  to  the  intense  heats  of  the 
climate,  and  to  the  constant  variations  of  its 
temperature  ;  as  well  as  to  the  extreme  dryness 
of  the  atmosphere  at  one  season,  and  to  its 
humidity  at  another ;  to  the  injurious  effects  of 
the  dust ;  and  perhaps,  also,  to  the  circumstance 
of  there  being  at  Odessa  nearly  a  total  want  of 
medical  practitioners  possessing  any  rational 
claims  to  confidence. 

POPULATION    OF    ODESSA. 

Some  account  of  the  population  of  Odessa  up 
to  the  year  1828  will  now  be  attempted,  pre- 
mising, that  as  the  details  are  taken  from  the  ♦ 

*  "  A  similar  looseness  of  principle  is  displayed  in  many 
other  public  acts,  that  seems,  by  long  habit,  almost  to  have 
become  essential  to  the  nature  of  the  Russian  government. 


!. I 


published  registers  of  the  Police,  they  therefore 
are  most  probably  too  favourable ;  however, 
being  the  only  attainable  data  from  which  it  is 
possible  to  draw  any  conclusions  on  the  subject, 
they  still  possess  sufficient  importance  and  in- 
terest to  warrant  their  introduction  in  the  present 
instance. 

According  to  registers  made  at  the  termina- 
tion of  the  year  1826,  the  town  and  its  suburbs 
contained  a  popidation  of  3%995  individuals ; 
17,682  being  males,  and  15,313  females.  * 

Classed  according  to  nations,  &c.,  the  popu- 
lation appeared  to  be  divided  as  follows :  — 

Subjects  of  Russia          -          -  -  .          -  29  497 

Austria         -             .        -  .         .  iqoo 

The  Ottoman  Porte  -  -            -  1329 

England          -             -  .  -  274? 

France         -         -  -  .            .  24,9 

Prussia         -         -  -  -          -  46 

Spain          -          -  .  "          -  SI 

Wurtemburg           -             -  .  -  138 

Switzerland,  and  different  Italian  States  431 


Total 


32,995 


The  Police,  the  guardians  of  the  press,  the  censors  of  the 
literary  world,  extend  their  dominion  over  all  its  depart- 
ments. They  suppress,  on  the  most  ungrounded  suspicions, 
the  manifestoes  of  foreign  courts;  and  in  their  own  domestic 
state  papers  cause  a  new  gloss  to  be  given  to  the  statistical  re- 
ports, as  well  as  to  the  despatches  received  from  the  army/ 
—  Vide  "  James's  Tour,"  vol.  i.  p.  453. 

*  It  is  amusing  to  observe  how  various  authors  have  dif- 
fered as  to  the  amount  of  population  at  Odessa:  — 

In  1820,  according  to  Castelnau,  it  was  above  40,000. 

In  1823     -       -       -     Vsevolojskii,  18,000  to  20,000. 

In  the  same  year    -    M.  De  Pradt      -      -    50,000 1 


"nmmm 


"P* 


i\i 


I/: 


238 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


From  April  to  October,  in  each  year,  the  po- 
pohition  of  Odessa  is  augmented  by  the  influx  of 
from  7000  to  10,000  individuals,  consisting  prin- 
cipally of  the  labourers  and  waggon-drivers,  who 
arrive  from  different  parts  of  the  empire ;  also  of 
the  Polish  seigneurs,  and  foreign  merchants, 
who  come  for  commercial  purposes.  The  Jews 
amounted  in  number  to  4226,  of  which  2260 
were  males,  and  I966  females. 

The  births  and  deaths,  from  the  year  1823  to 
the  year  1828,  were  as  follows :  — 


Births. 

Deaths.              1 

Years. 

IVIales. 

Females. 

Ofboth 
Sexes. 

Males. 

Females. 

Of  boUi 
Sexes. 

In  1824 
1825 
1826 
1827 

1049 

797 
1123 
1029 

1011 
724 

984 
868 

2060 
1521 
2107 
1897 

599 
690 
867 
870 

497 
574 
720 
706 

1096 
1264 
1587 
1576 

The  number  of  marriages  was  as  under :  — 


In  1824 

-    423 

1825 

-    410 

1826 

-     590 

1827 

-    728 

erage  of  the  births  for  the  fou 

Males 

-    999 

Females 

-    896 

Total 

-     1895 

Of  the  marriages 

-    537 

PRESENT   STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


239 


And  of  the  deaths, 


Males 
Females 


Total 


-  756 

-  624 

-    1380 


Table  of  the  mortality,  accordmg  to  the  ages 
of  the  individuals. 


Age. 

Years. 

Mean  term 

for  four 

years. 

1824. 

1825. 

1826. 

1827. 

Under  one  year. 

1  to      3 
8  -      5 

5-10 
10  -     20 
20  -    40 
40  -    60 
60  -     80 
80  -  100 

542 
200 
33 
30 
34 
86 
68 
68 
35 

569 
242 
82 
50 
39 
102 
91 
55 
34 

667 

369 

90 

66 

56 

106 

118 

78 

37 

684 

269 

53 

57 

47 

163 

146 

107 

50 

615 

270 

64 

50 

44 

114 

105 

77 

39 

Note. — This  table  comprehends  the  deaths  of 
both  sexes.  The  mortality  for  each  month  of  the 
year  will  now  be  given  ;  and  for  the  sake  of  bre- 
vity  the  tabular  form  will  still  be  continued :  the 
average  being  also  taken  from  the  four  above- 
mentioned  years. 


Months. 


January- 
February 
March 
April     - 
May 
June 


Died. 


83 

82 

115 

118 

87 

136 


Months. 


July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 


Died. 


175 
153 
101 
144 
104 
110 


r 


i 


S40 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


^41 


Hi 


I/! 


Sudden  deaths,  including  those  by  accident  or 

suicide. 

In  1825,  twenty-six  persons  died  suddenly* 
or  by  accident,  and  nine  committed  suicide. 

In  1826,  twenty-eiglit  persons  died  suddenly 
or  by  accident,  and  five  committed  suicide. 

In  1827,  the  sudden  and  accidental  deaths 
amounted  to  the  number  of  fifty-four,  and  the 
cases  of  suicide  to  three. 

From  the  foregoing  premises,  it  appears  that 
the  population  of  Odessa  is  augmenting  rapidly 
by  the  births  ;  these  being  to  the  existing  popu- 
lation as  1  :  21,  the  mortality  being  in  the  ratio 
of  one  in  thirty,  t  The  greatest  mortality  takes 
place  in  the  months  of  July,  August,  and  Octo- 
ber ;  and  the  least  in  those  of  January,  February, 

and  May. 

Since  the  foregoing  statements  were  drawn  up, 
the  annual  returns  for  1 828  have  been  published ; 
from  which  it  appears  the  number  of  marriages 
in  Odessa,  during  that  year,  amounted  to  1228, 

*  Under  this  head,  I  suppose,  are  classed  the  murders 
which  take  place  at  Odessa ;  not  finding  any  instance  of  that 
crime  being  recorded,  though  /  heard  the  details  of  three  which 
were  committed  during  my  residence  there.  Perhaps,  how- 
ever, these  should  be  considered  as  misstatements,  and  the 
occurrence  of  such  atrocities  as  impossible,  in  so  perfect  an 

Elysium  as  Odessa. 

+  It  is  mentioned  above,  that  the  population  of  Odessa  is 
augmented  at  different  periods,  by  persons  arriving  from 
various  parts  of  the  empire,  or  from  abroad.  This  circum- 
stance  has  been  taken  into  consideration  in  the  table  which 
has  just  been  given,  and  therefore  it  is  evident  that  they  are 
made  to  appear  too  favour  able. 


and  the  births  to  2289,  of  which  1224  were  males 
and  10G5  females ;  while  the  mortahty  w^as  2018, 
of  which  1178  were  males  and  840  females. 

GOVERNMENT    OF    ODESSA.* 

The  government  of  the  town  is  said  to  be 
vested  in  what  is  termed  the  Committee,  this 
being  under  the  orders  of  the  Military  Governor, 
or  Governor-general,  who  is  always  its  president ; 
the  government,  therefore,  virtually  resides  in 
the  Governor-general.  The  committee  consists 
of  the  following  persons,  ex  officio:— the  Civil 
Governor ;  the  Commandant  of  the  Fortress  ;  the 
General  of  Engineers;  the  Inspector  of  the 
Quarantine ;  the  Director  of  the  Customs ;  the 
Mayor;  the  Treasurer;  and  two  merchants  named 
by  the  Governor-general. 

There  are  besides,  a  Secretary  and  an  Archi- 
tect, numerous  employes,  &c. 

In  the  absence  of  the  Governor-general,  the 
Civil  Governor  or  the  Commandant  presides ; 
the  former  of  whom  may  be  denominated  the 
Deputy  Governor,  as  he  appears  to  take  all  the 
laborious  routine  of  business,  such  as  the  sign- 
ing  of  passports,  &c.,  which  should  strictly  be 

•  Public  business  is  much  in  arrear  at  Odessa,  as  I  have 
been  assured  by  employh  belonging  to  the  chancery  of 
the  Governor-general.  It  must,  also,  be  in  a  sad  state  in 
the  Tauride,  for  the  late  Governor  of  that  province  (a  most 
conscientious  and  amiable  man)  was  continued  in  office, 
agamst  his  own  wishes,  long  after  an  unfortunate  malady 
had  rendered  him  totally  incapable  of  performing  his  duties. 


24-2 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


US 


\\ 


performed  by  the  Military  Governor.  The  Ge- 
neral  of  Engineers  superintends  all  the  works  of 
the  port  and  town,  and  tlie  performance  of  con- 
tracts connected  with  tliem.  The  architect  makes 
the  plans  for  all  buildings,  private  as  well  as 
public,  which  are  to  be  erected,  in  order  to  ensure 
the  uniformity  of  the  town. 

MAGISTRATES. 

There    are  several   magistrates,   concerning 
whom  Castelnau   makes  the  following   observ- 

ation: "These  gentlemen   are  so  frequently 

changed,  that  what  might  be  said  of  those  now 
in  office  would  not  be  adapted  to  their  sue- 


cessors. 


» 


POLICE. 


This  is  composed  of  the  Master  of  the  Police, 
at  present  a  colonel  in  the  anny,  and  several 
under  officers,  who  are  each  attached  to  a  par- 
ticular  quarter  or  district.     They  are  mounted  ; 
and,  nearly  at  all  hours,  the  Master  of  the  Police, 
in  his  uniform  as  a  colonel,  and  attended  by  a 
Kozak,  may  be  seen  galloping  at  full  speed  in 
some  part  of  the  town  or  other.     He  superin- 
tends what  may  be  termed  the  Police  Office. 
The  power  possessed  by  this  officer,  and  the 
summary  way  in  which  he  exercises  it  over  the 
lower  orders,  may  be  collected  from  the  follow- 
ing particulars,  as  related  to  me  by  a  young 
Russian  emploi/c\  who  did  not  seem  aware  that 
there  was  any  thing  like  tyranny  in  the  proceed- 


ing:—" I  was  supping  with  some  brother  m- 
ploj/^s  one  evening,"  he  said,  «  when  it  was  ob- 
served  that  the  plates,  were  not  properly  dusted; 
and  upon  the  host  scolding  his  slave  for  this  neg- 
ligence, the  latter  returned  (what  was  considered) 
an  impudent  answer.     One  of  the  employes  im- 
mediately went  in  search  of  the  Master  of  Police, 
who  speedily  returned  with  him  ;  and  when  m! 
formed  that  the  slave  had  been  impertinent  to  his 
master,  he  at  once  ordered  his  Kozak  to  apply 
the  knout  freely  over  the  delinquent's  back;  after 
which  he  retired,  and  the  supper  was  resumed." 
A  certain  number  of  old  soldiers  are  placed  in 
different  parts  of  the  town,  and  answer,  in  some 
degree,  to  our  police  officers. 

GENDARMERIE. 

I  have  reserved  until  now  the  mention  of  this, 
which  is  the  highest  description  of  police  in 
Odessa,  and  in  the  empire  at  large,  because  it 
has  been  but  recently  created ;  though,  in  respect 
to  power,  it  ought  to  be  placed  even  before  the 
Governor.general.     It  was   established  by  the 
Emperor  Nicholas,  and,  if  I  am  rightly  informed, 
IS  armed  with  the  most  tremendous  authority;* 
being,  in  fact,  a  species  of  secret  espionnage  in 
constant  communication  with  the  government. 
The  chief  officer  of  this  force  residing  at  Odessa 
is  a  colonel,  whose  duty  is  to  make  himself  ac- 
quainted with  every  person  and  every  circum- 
stance  that  is  going  on  in  the  town,  and  to  send 
secret  reports  of  his  observations  to  St  Peters- 

R  2 


^44 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF   ODESSA. 


245 


burg.  Should  he  suspect  any  thing  improper  in 
the  pubUc  establishments  (or  even  without  such 
suspicion),  he  may  immediately  examine  all  their 
books  and  documents ;  nay,  I  have  been  assured 
that  he  is  authorised  to  do  the  same  in  the  chan- 
cery of  the  Governor-general,  or  even  to  enter 
the  house  of  His  Excellency  if  he  choose,  and  to 
make  examinations  therein.  Such  power,  in  good 
hands,  may  be  useful  to  the  govermuent ;  but,  in 
those  of  injudicious  or  unprincipled  persons,  is 
calculated  to  produce  the  extremes  of  injustice 
and  misery. 

REVENUES  OF  THE  TOWN. 

The  town  receives  a  tax,  called  Gorodskoiy 
from  all  the  inhabitants,  upon  their  inscription, 
according  to  their  several  classes  :  also  a  tax  upon 
every  house.  The  produce  ought  to  be  expended 
in  supporting  the  chancery*  of  the  Governor- 
general  and  his  employes ;  in  paying  the  magi- 
strates, and  the  various  branches  of  police  ;  in 
furnishing  necessary  implements  for  the  use  of 
the  town,  &c.  &c.  The  annual  returns  from  the 
sources  just  mentioned  may  possibly  amount  to 
323,000  roubles :  besides,  in  consequence  of  a 
privilege  granted  by  the  Emperor  Paul  for  twenty 
five  years,  and  since  continued  by  his  successors, 
the  town  enjoys  the  revenues  arising  from  the 

*  The  office  of  public  functionaries  in  Russia,  is  called 
**  a  chancery : "  —  thus  the  Governor-general,  the  Civil 
Governor,  the  Director  of  the  Quarantine,  &c.  all  have 
their  "  chanceries.'* 


government  tax  upon  all  spirituous  liquors  con- 
sumed by  its  inhabitants,  and  a  tenth  part  of  the 
custom-house  receipts  from  what  is  termed  the 
immediate  duty  on  merchandises  of  importation 
and  exportation.     To  these  must  be  added  the 
profits  resulting  from  a  duty  of  two  kopecks  and 
a  lialf  upon  every  tchetvert  of  wheat  exported, 
and  which  ought  to  be  employed  in  the  con- 
struction of  churches  and  in  repairing  the  roads. 
The  income  received  from  the  crown  may  be 
stated  at  about  500,000  roubles.     I  give  the 
above  from  Castelnau,  having  been  unable  my- 
self  to  procure  any  correct  information  on  the 
subject   during   my  residence   at  Odessa;    but 
should  suppose  that  the  town  revenues  now  ex- 
ceed tlie  value  at  which  they  were  estimated  by 
that  writer.  "^ 


R  3 


Ti 


246 


KISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PUBLIC  ESTABLISHMENTS. 

L  ESTABLISHMENTS  CONNECTED  WITH  COMMERCE. 

PORTS  OF  ODESSA. 

These  consist  of  the  "  Quarantine"  or  foreign, 
and  the  "  Military  "  or  home  port.  The  first  is 
devoted  exckisively  to  the  reception  of  vessels 
arriving  from  abroad,  and  in  aiding  the  perform- 
ance of  quarantine,  &c. ;  the  latter  is  destined 
to  flicilitate  the  loading  and  unloading  of  vessels 
employed  in  the  coasting  trade  between  Odessa 
and  the  various  Russian  ports  on  the  Black  Sea. 
It  has  been  proposed  to  construct  a  quay,  ex- 
tending from  one  port  to  the  other,  which  would 
not  only  strengthen  both,  but  prevent  the  cliff 
from  being  undermined  by  the  sea,  and  afford  an 
agreeable  promenade:  a  descent,  by  steps,  has 
been  also  projected  from  the  middle  of  the  New 
Boulevard  to  this  quay;  the  Emperor  having 
approved  of  the  plans,  and  ordered  the  works  to 
be  forthwith  begun  and  completed.  It  was  not 
known,  however,  at  my  departure,  with  what 
funds  they  were  to  be  carried  on  ;  and  therefore 
it  is  most  probable  that  they  will,  for  some  years 
longer,  exist  only  on  paper. 

The  Quarantine  port  is  formed  by  a  pier  of 
moderate  size,  extending  in  a  curved  direction 
into  the  sea,  respecting  which  much  exaggera- 
tion  has  been  spread  abroad  by  the  Russians. 
An  officer  told  me  he  had  been  informed  at  St 
Petersburg,  that  this  port  contained  45  feet  of 
water  in  its  deepest  part.  I  know,  from  the 
very  best  authority^  that  there  is  at  present  but 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


247 


25  feet  of  water  at  the  extremity  of  the  pier ; 
and  it  is  so  shallow  in  some  other  places,  that  a 
dredging  machine  was  about  to  be  employed, 
when  I  left  Russia,  in  order  to  deepen  its  chan- 
nel. Tliis  pier  is  connected  with  the  quarantine 
establishments,  and  no  communication  can  take 
place  with  the  town  except  through  them. 

Tlie  "  Military  port,'*  as  it  is  termed,  (why,  I 
know  not,)  is  situated  about  a  mile  farther  to  the 
westward,  and  is  formed  by  a  smaller  pier :  the 
water  within  this  port  is  exceedingly  shallow. 

As  I  do  not  imagine  that  the  generality  of 
readers  would  be  much  interested  with  a  more 
lengthened  account  of  the  trade  of  Odessa,  I 
shall  merely  subjoin,  in  a  tabular  form,  the  num- 
ber of  ships  that  arrived  and  departed  from  each 
port  during  the  years  1827-8,  with  the  value  of 
the  imports  and  exports  in  the  former  year,  and 
a  stiitement  of  the  nations  to  which  they  be- 
longed ;  as  well  as  a  list  of  the  articles  imported 
and  exported  during  the  latter  : 


FOREIGN    PORT. 

—  1827. 

i 

O 

O 

1 

ARRIVALS. 

DEPAR 
Number  of  Ships. 

rURE& 

s 

1 

Number  of  Ships. 

Value  of 
Imimrtations. 

tn 

434 

B 

421 

1 

Tn 
Ballast. 

c 

►3 

790 

Value  of 
Exportatiuns. 

855 

R.              K. 
12,773,893  75 

8 

782 

R. 

20,380,388 

From  this  table  it  appears  that  tlie  exports 
exceeded  in  value  tiie  imports,  to  the  amount  of 
7,606,494  roubles  25  kopecks. 

R  4 


r 

/ 


248 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


Table,  showing  the  number  of  ships  that  arrived 
and  departed  from  Odessa  in  the  year  18^7, 


and  under  what  flag  :  — 


ARRIVALS. 

DEPARTURES. 

Under  what  Flag. 

Under  what  Flag. 

Turkish 

Swedish 

Sardinian 

Austrian 

French 

English 

Russian 

Total     - 

9 
2 
236 
292 
1 
155 
160 

855 

Turkish 

Swedish 

Sardinian 

Austrian     - 

French 

English 

Russian 

Total     - 

7 
2 
235 
278 
1 
143 
124 

790 

HOME    PORT. 1  8^7- 


ARRIVAIA 

DEPARTURES. 

a. 

en 

3 

Port  of  Odessa. 

Number  of  Ships. 

Valup  of 
Importations. 

Number  of  Ships. 

Value  of 
Exportation!. 

"ft 

CQ 

2 

o 

CQ 

it 

5 

6- 

■AK 

4;y 

R. 

1,702,580 

397 

35 

432 

ft.                K. 

1,502,620     10 

2 

Hence  it  appears  that  the  imports  exceeded 
the  exports  by  199,959  roubles  90  kopecks. 


I 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


FOREIGN    PORT. 18^8. 


249 


Table,  showing  the  number  of  ships  that  arrived 
and  departed  from  Odessa,  and  under  what 


nag  :  — 

Arrived. 

Under  what  Flag. 

Departed. 

Number  of  Ships. 

Number  of  Ships. 

50 

Russian 

38 

58 

Austrian 

41 

4 

English 

8 

14 

Sardinian 

11 

1 

Dutch 

0 

2 

Neapolitan 

0 

1 

Turkish                             1 

HO] 

VIE 

PORT.  —  1828. 

ARRIVALS 

DEPARTURFhS, 

From  what  Places. 

Number  of 

Ships. 

Destination. 

Number  of  Ships.  | 

In 
Ballast. 

2 

5 

o 

Eh 

c 

2 

"5 

Cherson     - 

259 

Cherson    - 

254 

4 

258 

Nickolaief 

2 

Nickolaief 

3 

3 

Eupatoria     -     . 

9 

Akerman  - 

9 

1 

10 

Akemian     - 
Theodosia 

2 

2 

Taganroc    - 
Kertche 

3 
4 

3 
4 

Kertche     - 

2 

Theodosia  - 

0 

I 

1 

1 aganroc     - 

18 

Sevastopol 

0 

1 

1 

Different  parts  of 
Crimea 

11 

Eupatoria    -     - 
Crimea     . 

6 

8 

1 
1 

7 
q 

Reni 

1 

0        1 

Galatz     - 

11 

2      13 

Kustendgi 

0 

4 

4 

Kovarna     - 

0 

8 

8 

Varna 

0 

1 

1 

Redoute  Kale    - 

0 

4 

4 

Total     - 



305 



Genoa     - 

0 

2 

2 

Total     - 

299 

329 

si 


r 


250 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


* 


List  of  articles  imported  into  Odessa  in  the  year 
1828,  with  their  value  :  — 


Drugs       -  -  -  • 

Raw  cotton     -  -  - 

[Coloured  cotton  thread 
White  cotton  thread 
Diamonds,  set  and  unset 
Jewellery         -  - 

Different  gums 

Sandal  wood  -  -  - 

Tin  -  - 

Pearls  -  -  - 

Books  -  -  • 

Coffee  - 

Common  incense 
Manufactured  articles 
Images  of  gold 
Images  of  silver 

Bank  notes  -  -  • 

Steel  articles 
Unwrought  gold 
Plate  .  -  -  - 

Furs  -  -  -  - 

Oil  -  - 

Foreign  wines 
Olives    -  •  - 

Gall  nuts 

Black  pepper  (whole) 
Refined  sugar  (in  loaves) 
Powdered  sugar 
Lemon  juice 
Turkish  tobacco 
Dried  fruits 

Fresh  fruits  -  • 

Watches,  clocks,  wooden  ditto 
Tortoise-shell,  unwrought 

Tea  -  -  • 

Raw  silk  -  -         - 

Other  articles 


VALUE. 


Total    - 


R.  K. 

36,659  30 
20,900 
244,014 

6,094 
30,369 
37,245  20 
14.873 
38,100 
23,300 
47,460 

9,624 
197,080 
218,565  50 
1,269,221  65 
390,903  5 
354,864  45 
21,595 

14,121 

11,081 

5,370 
119,342 
108,596  80 
711,865 

58,760  40 

19,345 

84,701  40 
356,231 

91,935 

1 2,555 
264,140 
394,310 
115,116 

51,701 

31,000 
113,253 
575,901 
305,259  15 


6,405,451     90 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


251 


List  of  articles  exported  from  Odessa  in  the  year 
1828,  with  their  value :  — 


ARTICLES. 


Cords  and  cables        -  •  . 

Hides,  and  leather  tanned 
Manufactured  articles    -  .  . 

Butter  -  .  .  . 

Foreign  monies  — 

Gold 

Silver  •  .  . 

Gold  thread  -  -  .        • 

Copper,  in  leaves,  and  wrought 
Iron,  in  bars,  and  wrought 
Brass  .  •  •  . 

Furs  -  -  .  . 

Salted  and  smoked  meat,  and  bouillon 
Wines  from  the  Don  and  Akerman 
Corn  brandy  -  -  - 

Caviar    -  -  -  .         - 

Wax  and  tallow  candles 
Bacon 

Wheat     -  -  .  . 

Wheaten  flour 

Rye  -  -  . 

Wheaten  biscuits         -  .  - 

Other  preparations  of  com 

Tea  ,  -  .  . 

Raw  wool  -  -  -  . 

Other  Russian  merchandises 

Foreign  merchandises  re-exported 

Total  - 


VALUE. 


R. 

52,292 
54,770 
68,933 
12,926 

144,995 

65,200 

97,900 

25,001 

14,938 

11,314 

23,580 

12,610 

7,536 

9,500 

38,895 

28,995 

110,701 

315,920 

108,300 

10,000 

22,620 

13,454 

9,497 

45,850 

107,808 

435,221 


20 


41 
60 


1,848,757  21 


It  must  be  observed,  that  the  existence  of  war 
with  Turkey,  during  part  of  this  year,  occasioned 
the  sailing  of  some  vessels  to  Ottoman  and  other 
ports,  as  well  as  to  those  of  Russia. 


252 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


1 


It  may  not,  perhaps,  be  improper  here  to 
notice  the  projected  employment  of  steam-vessels 
in  the  Black  Sea,  by  the  Russians. 

While  I  was  at  St.  Petersburg,  in  1828,  Mr. 
Baird,  the  English  engineer  of  that  place,  re- 
ceived  orders  from  the  Russian  government  to 
make  several   engines  for  steam-vessels  to   be 
launched  upon  the  Black  Sea,  it  being  intended 
that  the  post  to  Persia  should,  from  that  time, 
be  forwarded  by  one  of  these  vessels,  while  the 
rest  were  always  to  be  kept  in  readiness  for  any 
other  service  to  which  they  might  he  applicable. 
At  present,  the  conveyance  of  letters  from  Odessa 
to  Persia,  by  land,  occupies  a  period  of  33  days ; 
the  road  is  most  difficult,  and  the  post  is  obliged 
to  be  guarded  by  a  detachment  of  soldiers  with 
field-pieces.     By  the  new  plan,  it  is  expected  to 
be  conveyed  in  four  days,  and  without  any  need 
of  the  cannon  or  military.     However,  upon  my 
arrival  at  Odessa,  I  found  that  the  proposed  im- 
provement had  been  given  up,  at  least  for  a  time, 
and  the  orders  for  engines  countermanded ;  no 
doubt,   from   the   inability  of  the   government 
to  supply  the  necessary  money,   all  its  funds 
being  required  for  the  prosecution  of  the  Turkish 
war,  which  was  just  then  at  its  commencement. 
From  these  facts,  it  appears  likely  that  Russia  is 
contemplating  the  introduction  of  steam-vessels 
into  her  service,  for  the  purpose  of  aiding  in  the 
prosecution  of  any  war.     It  will  be  well  for 
England  to  keep  this  circumstance  in  recollec- 
tion, although  there  is  not  much  probability  of 
the  Russians  for  many  years  rendering  their 


11 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


253 


Steam-vessels  very  effective.  Count  Vorontzof 
ordered  the  construction  of  a  steam-boat  for  the 
Black  Sea,  the  engines  being  made  by  Baird, 
and  the  hull  built  in  the  imperial  dock-yard  at 
Nikolaief.  It  was  called  the  "  Ville  d'Odessa," 
and  intended  to  carry  passengers  and  goods  be- 
tween Odessa  and  the  Crimea,  and  cost  the  town 
an  immense  sum.  At  length,  its  first  voyage 
being  announced,  many  persons  went  on  board ; 
among  the  rest.  Count  de  Witt,  at  that  time  Ge- 
neral-in-cliief  of  the  army  of  reserve,  who  was 
about  to  make  a  tour  of  miUtary  inspection. 
Having  gone  a  short  distance,  however,  some 
imperfections  were  perceived  in  the  vessel,  which 
prevented  her  from  proceeding  farther,  and  she 
was  with  great  difficulty  brought  back  to  the 
port,  where  all  the  passengers  were  landed. 
Again  she  was  announced  as  ready  for  sea,  and 
this  time  actually  did  reach  her  destination ;  but 
after  having  made  a  few  voyages  in  the  summer, 
the  vessel  was  found  perfectly  unadapted  for  the 
conveyance  of  passengers,  owing  to  her  intoler- 
able rolling  •  ;  and  before  I  left  Odessa  the  local 
government  was  vainly  offering  to  let  her  on  hire, 
for  the  mere  transport  of  merchandise,  or  even  of 
wood!  The  Port-captain,  I  know,  considered 
her  not  sea- worthy ;  and  his  advice  was  that  she 
should  be  immediately  broken  up.  The  superin- 
tendent of  the  machinery  was  a  Yorkshireman, 
brought  out,  I  believe,  at  the  instigation  of  Count 
Vorontzof 

*  I  was  told  she  was  ne2M\y  flat-bottomed. 


« 


m 


254 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


QUARANTINE. 

There  is  a  place  within  the  two  ports,  which, 
from  the  first  foundation  of  Odessa,  has  been 
appropriated  to  the  reception  of  ships  arriving 
from  the  Turkish  seas  to  perform  quarantine,  — 
and  near  this  spot  were  erected  temporary  maga- 
zines and  houses.  At  that  period  Taganroc  was 
the  port  where  all  the  merchandise  of  the  Levant, 
not  requiring  purification,  was  consigned.  The 
towns  of  Mohilef  andDoubossari,  on  the  Dneister, 
received  the  stuffs,  raw  and  other  silks,  the  cot- 
tons, and  wool.  Since  the  year  180f),  however, 
goods  of  this  description,  with  the  exception  of 
raw  silk,  have  been  no  longer  allowed  to  pass  the 
dry  frontier. 

When  the  increasing  commerce  of  the  Black 
Sea,  and  the  number  of  foreign  vessels  in  con- 
sequence arriving  at  Odessa,  rendered  evident 
the  necessity  for  a  more  spacious  and  better 
constructed  quarantine,  the  Duke  de  Richelieu 
caused  a  plan  for  a  new  establishment  of  this 
description,  on  a  large  scale,  similar  to  that  of 
Marseilles,  to  be  presented  to  the  government, 
which  approving  of  it,  the  undertaking  was  com- 
menced, and  in  due  time  completed.  The  new 
quarantine  is  separated  from  the  town  by  a  ditch, 
but  is  united  to  the  fortress,  which  covers  it  on 
the  land  side,  while  its  approach  from  the  sea  is 
defended  by  high  walls  flanked  with  turrets. 
The  advantages  of  the  new  quarantine  consist 
in  more  ccnnmodious  lodgings  for  passengers ; 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


^5 


magazines  for  the  reception  and  purification  of 
merchandise ;  the  facility  of  completely  isolating 
persons  affected  with  the  plague,  by  placing  them 
in  an  inclosure  surrounded  with  three  walls,  re- 
ceiving light  only  from  an  interior  court,  which 
cannot  be  arrived  at  without  passing  three  gates ; 
conversation  galleries,  for  the  use  of  sailors  and 
others  in    quarantine,    constructed   in   such   a 
manner  that  it  is  impossible  for  any  communi- 
cation to  take  place  except  by  the  voice ;  and 
various  means  for  inspecting  every  part  of  the 
establishment.    New  quarantine  regulations  were 
made  on  the  completion  of  the  present  estabhsh- 
ment,   founded  upon  those  of  Marseilles,   but 
modified  in  reference  to  the  locality  of  Odessa, 
where  a  ship  may  easily  arrive  in  three  days  from 
Constantinople  ;  and,  indeed,  as  many  as  154, 
vessels  from  the  latter  port  have  entered  that  of 
Odessa  during  the  short  period  of  twenty-four 
hours,  having  been  only  two  days  on  the  passage. 
The  quarantine  is  divided  into  three  parts, 
termed  quarters.     The  first  is  for  receiving  mer- 
chandise  not  liable  to  purification,  but  which  is 
merely  examined  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
whether  it  contains  any  thing  contraband.     A 
Commissary  and  Sub-commissary  are  attached  to 
this  quarter,  as  well  as  a  certain  number  of  guards, 
&c.     The  second  quarter  has  likewise  its  Com- 
missary  and  Sub-commissary,  who  have  the  sur- 
veillance  of  persons  coming  ashore ;  they  receive 
the  passengers,  conduct  them  to  their  rooms,  and 
furnish  provisions  for  the  ships  at  a  rate  fixed  by 


u 


256 


RfSE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


257 


the  Board  of  Health  (which  will  be  shortly  des- 
cribed).  The  Commissary  of  this  quarter  is  also 
superintendent  of  the  buiklings.  In  the  third 
quarter  is  deposited  the  merchandise  subjected 
to  purification,  under  the  superintendence  of  its 
Commissary  and  Sub-commissary.  These  officers, 
on  application  to  the  above-mentioned  Board,  are 
furnished  with  galley  slaves,  by  whom  this  un- 
pleasant  and  dangerous  operation  is  performed. 
Finally,  there  is  an  infirmary,  to  which,  on  the 
plague  making  its  appearance,  the  Board  of 
Health  nominates,  as  superintendent,  that  one  of 
their  employes  in  whom  the  greatest  dependence 

can  be  placed. 

In  front  of  the  port  a  ship  of  war  is  anchored, 
commanded  by  an  old  officer,  who  follows  the 
instructions  he  receives  from  the  Board.  This 
officer  superintends  the  vessels,  prevents  any 
communication  from  one  to  another,  arrests 
those  who  break  the  regulations,  and  causes 
order  to  be  observed  throughout  the  merchant 
fleet.  When  circumstances  permit  ships  to  load 
during  quarantine,  the  following  is  the  mode 
adopted.  The  vessel  newly  arrived  discharges 
its  cargo :  it  then  remains  at  least  sixteen  days 
in  observation,  when  the  plague  is  not  at  Con- 
stantinople ;  but  if  the  contagion  prevail  there, 
a  longer  time  is  required.  After  this,  the  Board 
of  Health  permits  it  to  be  reloaded :  the  mer- 
chandise  from  the  town  is  placed  in  lighters,  all 
the  sails,  &c.  of  which  are  taken  away;  and  when 
thus  laden  the  townspeople  retire,  while  those 


belonging  to  the  ship,  for  which  the  goods 
are  destined,  come  to  the  lighters,  and  tow  them 
alongside  their  vessel,  reconducting  them,  when 
emptied,  to  the  place  ordered  by  the  Board, 
where  they  are  sur\'eyed  by  an  inspector,  who 
causes  them  to  be  washed  and  returned  to  their 
owners.  In  this  manner  a  majority  of  the  ships 
do  not  take  pratique  in  the  town,  and  the  com- 
merce is  scarcely  affected  by  tliose  delays  which 
a  quarantine  appears  to  authorise. 

BOARD  OF  HEALTH. 

The  Board  of  Health  is  composed  of  three 
members  and  a  secretary,  with  a  chancery  at- 
tached to  it.  The  inspector  of  the  quarantine  is 
its  chief  member,  who  has  all  the  guards  employed 
in  this  service  under  his  orders.  It  is  his  duty 
to  see  that  the  directions  of  the  Board  are 
strictly  executed,  and  to  superintend  all  that 
relates  to  the  preservation  of  the  public  health. 
Colonel  Sonntag,  an  American,  who  is  also 
captain  of  the  port,  at  present  holds  this  appoint- 
ment. The  second  member's  attention  is  prin- 
cipally directed  towards  the  purifying  and  pre- 
servation of  all  suspected  merchandise.  The 
third  member  of  the  Board  is  the  physician 
whose  duties  are  the  same  in  all  quarantines. 

CUSTOM-HOUSE. 

Intimately  connected  with  the  preceding,  and 
situated  near  the  port,  is  the  Custom-House. 
The  duties  and  prohibitions  upon  the  commerce 

s 


258 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF   ODESSA. 


'259 


of  Odessa  and  other  Russian  possessions  in  the 
Black  Sea,  were  fixed  by  the  general  tariff  of  the 
14th  of  October,  1797,  and  by  divers  ukases, 
since  promulgated  for  the  purpose  of  modifying 
in  some  degree  the  original  regulations.  Odessa 
receives  a  bonus  of  25  per  cent,  from  the  duties 
upon  imports  and  exports ;  and  recently  several 
ukases  have  been  issued  allowing  it  particular 
privileges,  such  as  that  of  importing  sculptured, 
and  other  marble,  for  building  in  the  town,  duty 
free,  &c. 

AMOUNT  OF  DUTIES,  ETC. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  Custom-House 
registers  at  Odessa  will  show  the  gradual  aug- 
mentation  of  its  returns  from  the  year  1803  to 
1814.     I  have    been    unable    to  procure   the 
account  for  1814;  but,  fortunately,  through  the 
kindness  of  my  friend,  the  late  Prince  Trubctskoi, 
who  was  director  of  the  customs  at  Odessa,  I 
am  enabled  to  give  the  amount  of  duties,  as  well 
as  the  quantity  of  corn  exported,  from  the  year 
1814  to  1828.     The  account  in  question,  which 
I  possess,  was  drawn  up  by  the  Prince  himself, 
and  is  almost  the  last  thing  he  wrote.*     A  copy 
is  here  subjoined. 

♦  He  was  a  man  of  amiable  manners ;  and  had  he  been 
now  living,  I  should,  for  his  sake,  have  concealed  the  fact  of 
my  being  furnished  with  the  foregoing  tables  by  himself. 
He  was  formerly  a  lieutenant-colonel  in  the  army.  His 
brother  is  one  of  the  unfortunate  individuals  who  are  now  m 
chains  among  the  mines  of  Siberia,  having  been  implicated, 
as  it  is  said,  in  the  conspiracy  of  1825. 


Years. 

Importation. 

Exportation. 

Duties. 

1804 

R. 

1,223,027 

R. 

2,339,509 

R. 

155,037 

1805     - 

2,156,298 

3,399,291 

203,605 

1806 

1,845,125 

822,927 

209,757 

1807     - 

490,330 

336,022 

76,319 

1808 

1,901,766 

1,975,013 

256,706 

1809    - 

2,259,004 

1,776,290 

231,424 

1810 

2,763,874 

3,146,994 

445,216 

1811       - 

7,040,080 

7,747,544 

829,241 

1812 

2,313,521 

5,855,045 

386,918 

1813      - 

3,169,895 

8,861,956 

683.607 

Years. 

Amount  of 
Duty. 

Amount  of  Com  exported. 

Wheat. 

Other  Com. 
Tchetverts. 

1815      - 
1816 
1817      - 
1818 
1819       - 
1820 
1821       . 
1822 
1823      - 
1824 
1825      - 
1826 
1827      - 

692,640 
1,244,185 
1,626,889 
1,318,353 
1,493,099 
1,412,481 
1,518,118 
2,262,629 
2,583,455 
2,990,314 
3,320,679 
3,186,498 
3,438,785 

496,412 

1,068,788 

1,161,190 

718,017 

837,235 

713,592 

480,407 

457,003 

590,713 

570,356 

711,823 

804,763 

1,200,000 

23,903 

37,488 

117,910 

55,686 

38,507 

34,351 

24,766 

5,318 

7,144 

1,959 

11,707 

21,470 

53,000 

It  will  be  seen,  from  the  latter  table,  that 
the  returns  rapidly  augmented  after  the  year 
1823,  because  they  were  more  honestly  ac- 
counted  for ;  the  Prince  having  told  me  that, 
previously  to  his  appointment,  the  duties  were 


H 


s  « 


2G0 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


261 


most  scandalously  embezzled.     Thus  the  state- 
ment of  Dr.  Lyall,  is   confirmed,  who  writing 
about  the  time  in  question,  says,  "  I  know  not 
the  exact  extent  to  which  the  crown  is  defrauded 
at  Odessa ;  but  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  the 
venality  is  as  great  at  its  Custom-House  as  in 
those  of  the  other  sea-port  towns  in  Russia  ;  and, 
as  is  well  known,  their  general  corruption  and 
roguery  exceeds  the  bounds  of  credibility ! "  * 
Odessa  is  surrounded  at  night  by  a  certain  number 
of  kozaks,  in  addition  to  the  sentries  placed  at 
various  posts  during  the  day,  in  order  to  prevent 
merchandise  being  smuggled  from  the  town  into 
the  interior ;  and  the  Director  of  the  Customs 
pays  them  frequent  visits,  to  see  that  they  are 
proi)erly  discharging  their  duty. 

CLASSES   OF    MERCHANTS. 

The  merchants  of  Odessa  are  classed,  like  those 
in  the  rest  of  Russia,  as  merchants  of  the  first, 
second,  and  third  class  or  guild.  Foreigners, 
not  being  naturahsed,  carry  on  their  business 
under  the  denomination  of  gastes  or  guests ;  these, 
strictly  speaking,  are  not  entitled  to  trade  with 
the  interior.  The  general  privileges  attached  to 
each  guild  of  merchants  are  determined  by  a 
specific  ukase,  confirmed  by  anotlier,  dated  the 
1st  of  January,  1807,  which  adds  certain  ho- 
norary  distinctions  in  their  favour.  This  regu- 
lation  is  common  to  all  the  merchants  of  Russia: 
the  particular  advantages  enjoyed  by  those  of 

*  Travels  in  Russia,  vol.  i.  p.  187. 


Odessa  consist  in  their  having  been  exempted 
for  a  period  of  Q5  years,  commencing  in  1796, 
(and  the  privilege  has  been  since,  I  beheve,  con- 
tinued,) from  the  duty  of  one  per  cent,  which, 
otherwise,  each  merchant  pays  to  the  crown 
upon  his  declared  capital ;  and  as  that  of  a  mer- 
chant belonging  to  the  first  guild  cannot  be  less 
than  50,000  roubles,  the  exemption  in  such  in- 
stance amounts  to  500  roubles  per  annum,  being 
proportionably  less  for  those  of  the  other  classes. 
Moreover,  the  merchants  of  Odessa  are  exempt 
from  finding  quarters  for  troops,  even  in  time 
of  war,  which  is  an  inestimable  advantage  as  far 
as  respects  private  comfort. 

THE    EXCHANGE. 

About  the  year  1809,  the  want  of  a  building 
where  large  assemblies  might  be  held  upon  par- 
ticular occasions,  and  where  the  merchants  could 
meet  for  the  transaction  of  business,  was  much 
felt  at  Odessa ;  and  the  pecuniary  resources  of  the 
town  being  at  that  time  inadequate  to  supply  the 
deficiency,  the  Chevalier  (since  Baron)  Rainaud, 
on  having  certain  privileges  guaranteed  to  him, 
imdertook  to  build  an  immense  structure,  called 
"  The  Club,"  containing,  among  other  conveni- 
ences,  a  large  saloon,  which  was  intended  to  serve 
for  the  exchange ;  however,  it  has  seldom,  if  ever, 
been  so  employed,  the  merchants  preferring  the 
use  of  a  coffee-room  in  another  part  of  the  build- 
ing. This  circumstance  recently  led  to  the  de- 
termination of  erecting  another  edifice,  at  the 

s  3 


r 


i 


262 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


263 


eastern  end  of  the  new  boulevard,  for  commer- 
cial  purposes,  to  be  denominated 

THE  NEW  EXCHANGE, 

the  first  stone  of  which  was  laid  on  the  4th  of 
January,  1829,  in  presence  of  the  Governor-ge- 
neral,  the  Civil  Governor,  and  a  large  concourse 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Odessa.  After  tlie  usual 
prayers  had  been  said,  the  stone  was  lowered  into 
its  place,  underneath  being  deposited  several 
coins  of  the  present  Emperor,  together  with  a 
brass  plate  bearing  the  following  inscription  :— 
"  On  the  15th  of  May,  in  the  year  1829,  in 
the  reign  of  His  Majesty  Nicholas  the  First,  and 
during  the  administration  of  Count  Vorontzof, 
Governor-general  of  New  Russia  and  Bessarabia, 
of  the  Privy  Councillor  Bogdanofsky,  Governor 
of  Odessa,  and  of  the  Provost  of  the  Merchants 
Outchinnikoff;  were  placed  the  foundations  of 
this  edifice,  destined  for  the  Exchange  of  the 

town." 

The  new  building  is  intended  to  be  an  imita- 
tion in  miniature  of  the  palace  of  Alexander  at 
Tzarskoe-9elo.  Its  fa9ades  are  by  the  celebrated 
Guaringhi ;  and  its  interior  is  solely  to  be  de- 
voted to  the  objects  of  such  an  establishment. 

TRIBUNAL  OF  COMMERCE. 

This  tribunal  was  founded  about  the  year  1809, 
and  is  composed  of  a  president,  two  members,  an 
Imperial  ^roa^re/fr,  and  a  secretary  named  by  the 
government ;  together  with  two  merchants  chosen 


by  the  commonalty,  who  must  be  approved  by 
the  Governor-general. 

Its  jurisdiction  extends  over  all  persons  em- 
ployed in  the  trade  of  Odessa,  and  over  all  dis- 
putes connected  therewith  ;  nor  is  there  any  ap- 
])eal  from  its  decision,  except  to  the  senate.  The 
forms  of  pleading  here  are  said  to  he  simple,  and 
not  expensive,  though  dilatory.  To  facilitate  its 
proceedings  a  sworn  translator  is  attached  to  it, 
who  turns  into  Iluss  all  the  papers  presented  by 
foreigners  to  the  tribunal. 

DEPUTATION  OF  COMMERCE. 

This  is  composed  of  five  members  chosen  by 
the  merchants,  as  their  representatives  or  agents 
between  themselves  and  the  Governor-general ; 
their  duty  being  to  make  any  appeals  to  his  jus- 
tice, or  to  solicit  any  favours,  that  may  be  desired 
by  their  constituents. 

BROKERS. 

The  brokers  at  Odessa,  as  in  most  other  places, 
are  the  agents  for  almost  all  commercial  business. 
There  are  twelve  sworn  brokers,  chosen  by  the 
merchants,  and  approved  and  licensed  by  the 
Tribunal  of  Commerce,  having  also  deputies  ap- 
pointed by  themselves.  They  receive  a  half  per 
cent,  from  each  party  as  their  commission,  and 
are,  in  all  respects,  under  the  direct  control  of 
the  Tribunal  of  Commerce.  They  register  the 
various  transactions  in  which  they  are  employed, 
and  draw  up  written  contracts  for  the  purchase 

s  4 


i 


\ 


!«Mna; 


S64 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


i\ 


or  sale  of  goods,  upon  stamped  paper,  which 
latter  costs  a  rouble,  if  the  merchandise  in  ques- 
tion do  not  exceed  the  value  of  1000  roubles, 
and  increases  in  proportion  up  to  100  roubles  for 
contracts  to  the  amount  of  100,000  or  above. 

BANK  OF  EXCHANGE. 

This  was  established  for  the  piu'])Ose  of  paying 
up  to  a  certain  sinn,  in  copj)er  kopecks,  the  as- 
signation bank-notes  which  may  be  presented 
to  it. 

DISCOUNT,  OR  LOAN  BANK. 

In  order  to  aid  the  commerce  of  Odessa,  the 
present  Bank  was  established  by  the  government, 
upon  the  plan  of  those  at  Moscow,  Archangel, 
Caffa,  and  Taganroc.  It  has  a  capital  of  750,000 
roubles,  with  which  bills  of  exchange,  endorsed 
by  two  merchants  of  repute  belonging  to  the 
town,  for  a  term  not  exceeding  nine  months,  are 
discounted,  deducting  at  the  rate  of  six  per  cent, 
per  annum  for  discount. 

Any  trader,  also,  who  finds  himself  surcharged 
with  merchandise  of  Russian  produce,  and  in 
want  of  funds,  has  the  right  of  claiming  assistance 
from  the  Bank,  wliich  takes  his  stock  as  security, 
seaHng  the  latter  with  its  own  seal  in  the  maga- 
zines where  it  is  placed,  and  advances  liim,  for 
the  term  of  nine  months,  at  farthest,  a  sum  not 
less  than  a  third,  nor  exceeding  three  fourths  of 
the  estimated  value  of  the  merchandise,  according 
to  its  nature,  and  as  it  may  be  more  or  less  liable 
to  deterioration  in  the  magazine. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


265 


CHAMBERS    OF    INSURANCE. 

Considering  the  extent  to  which  Russia  has 
carried  her  commerce  on  two  of  the  most  dan- 
gerous seas  in  Europe,  it  is  a  curious  circum- 
stance that  no  establishment  for  effecting  mari- 
time insurances  existed  in  that  country  until  the 
trading  interests  of  Odessa  formed  one,  in  1806, 
under  the  privileged  title  of 

Imperial  Chamber  of  Insurance. 
Before  this  period  the  merchants  were  com- 
pelled to  receive  the  assistance  of  foreign  coun- 
tries, in  effecting  insurances  for  the  Black  Sea, 

which  essential  branch  of  commerce,  since  the 
formation  of  the  Imperial  Chamber,  has  been 
transferred  to  Odessa.  The  capital  of  this  in- 
stitution is  composed  of  not  less  than  250  shares, 
nor  more  than  500,  of  1000  roubles  each.  It  is 
conducted  by  three  directors,  chosen  by  the 
shareholders,  and  a  registrar.  The  premiums 
of  insurance  in  the  Imperial  Chamber  vary,  ac- 
cording  to  the  season,  from  three  to  thirteen 
per  cent,  for  the  voyage  from  Odessa  to  Con- 
stantinople. 

Greco-Russian  Chamber  of  Insurance. 
After  the  establishment  of  the  preceding  cham- 
ber,  another  of  a  similar  description  was  formed,, 
under  the  denomination  of  the  Greco-Russian 
Chamber  of  Insurance.  It  possesses  the  same 
amount  of  capital,  and  is  conducted  nearly  in 
the  same  manner,  as  the  Imperial  Chamber.    At 


/ 


ii 


ih 


h' 


I* 


266 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


length  individual  merchants  began  to  undertake 
the  risk  of  insurances,  which  may  now  be  ef- 
fected, to  almost  any  amount,  on  terms  similar 
to  those  required  by  the  Imperial  Chamber. 

While  on  this  subject  it  will  be  proper  to 
mention  another  company  of  insurance,  which 
was  estabUshed  at  Odessa  in  the  year  1828,  upon 
the  plan,  and  by  some  of  the  proprietors  of  that 
recently  founded  at  St.  Petersburg.     This  is  the 

Fire  Insurance  Company  of  Odessa^ 

for  which  a  large  building  has  been  erected  near 
the  cathedra],  upon  the  spot  where  formerly  stood 
the  police-office  and  prison.  The  building  in 
question  is  of  stone,  with  a  high  tower  at  one 
part,  whence  watchmen  will  constantly  observe 
every  quarter  of  the  town,  as  at  Moscow,  St. 
Petersburg,  &c.  When  I  left  Russia  it  was  un- 
finished, and  the  various  regulations  of  the  com- 
pany were  not  generally  known. 

PROPOSED  DUTCH  FACTORY  AT  ODESSA. 

Ukase  of  the  Emperor .^  allowing  the  formation  of  a  Fac- 
tory at  Odessa^  for  the  purpose  of  trading  to  India. 

The  following  ukase  will,  perhaps,  be  read 
with  interest,  as  it  appears  to  show  what  are  the 
ultimate  designs  of  Russia  with  respect  to  our 
Indian  possessions,  although  there  is  not  much 
probability  of  her  ever  being  able  to  carry  them 
into  execution. 

On  the  ^d  (14th)  of  December,  1827,  His 
Majesty  the  Emperor  condescended  to  address  to 
the  Minister  of  Finance  the  following  ukase :  — 


/ 


i< 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


267 


"  Taking  into  consideration  the  petition  of 
Messieurs  Lensen  and  Delege,  subjects  of  Hol- 
land, soliciting,  in  favour  of  the  trading  company 
formed  in  the  kingdom  of  the  Netherlands  for 
the  purpose  of  extending  the  commercial  rela- 
tions between  the  empire  of  Russia,  the  kingdom 
of  the  Netherlands,  and  its  colonies  in  the  two 
Indies,  the  authority  to  establish  at  Odessa  the 
princii)al  factory  of  the  aforesaid  company,  I 
ordain,  — 

"  1.  The  Company  of  Commerce  of  the  Black 
Sea,  formed  at  Antwerp  with  the  permission  of 
that  government,  is  authorised  to  establish  for 
fifteen  years  its  principal  commercial  factory  at 
Odessa. 

"  2.  This  factory  is  permitted  to  establish 
private  counting-houses  in  the  different  towns  of 
New  Russia  and  Bessarabia ;  but  this  privile^^e 
does  not  extend  to  the  other  towns  and  ports  of 
Russia. 

"  3.  This  factory  is  also  authorised  to  have 
at  Kiakhta  a  commissary,  chosen  from  among 
Russian  subjects,  according  to  the  regulations 
established  with  respect  to  the  commerce  of  this 
frontier. 

"  4.  This  factory  shall  enjoy  the  commercial 
privileges  granted  to  foreigners,  and  may,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  existing  laws,  purchase  in  the 
interior  of  the  empire  such  merchandise  as  it 
may  require  for  exportation,  and  send  there 
for  this  purpose  its  own  clerks.  It  may,  in  like 
manner,  commission  the  merchants  of  the  first 


\\ 


I     i. 


t' 


r 


_ii 


268 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE   OF    ODESSA, 


m 


two  guilds  to  sell  upon  the  spot  the  merchandise 
it  may  import,  conformably  to  the  general  regu- 
lations ;  but  is  not  itself  allowed  to  deal,  either 
wholesale  or  retail,  in  the  interior  of  Russia, 
except  at  the  fair  called  Korennaia,  and  at  those 
of  Nijni-Novgorod  and  D'Irbit. 

"  5.  The  principal  directors  of  the  factory 
and  the  heads  of  the  other  offices  shall  alone  be 
bound  to  inscribe  themselves  as  gastes.  The 
clerks  shall  furnish  themselves  merely  with  the 
certificates  required  by  the  regulations,  when  they 
are  not  Russian  subjects.  The  stock-holders, 
unless  they  trade  on  their  own  account,  shall 
not  be  liable  to  any  duty  upon  their  capitals. 

"  6.  The  factory  is  authorised  to  possess  in 
its  own  name  houses,  magazines,  manufactories, 
and  lands  in  those  places  and  governments  where 
it  has  the  permission  to  establish  private  counting- 
houses.  Jt  may  also  possess  vessels,  and  cause 
them  to  be  built,  not  only  in  the  ports  of  the 
Black  Sea,  but  wherever  it  may  wish.  These 
ships  shall  enjoy  all  the  privileges  granted  to 
native  ships  (excepting  the  importation  of  salt) 
so  long  as  the  factory  shall  exist,  upon  condition 
that  the  latter  shall  discharge  all  imposts  and 
duties  to  which  the  before-mentioned  property 
may  be  subject  by  the  local  regulations. 

"  7-  The  free  exportation  of  the  capitals  and 
dividends  of  the  company  is  permitted,  provided 
that  it  be  not  in  Russian  money,  the  exportation 
of  which  is  prohibited,  but  only  in  foreign  money 
or  by  bills  of  exchange. 


"  8.  The  factory  is  authorised  to  enjoy  for 
fifteen  years  the  conveyance  of  teas  from  China, 
according  to  the  licenses  which  it  will  receive 
conformably  to  the  existing  laws,  unless  during 
the  above  period  it  should  be  judged  necessary 
to  make  new  regulations  on  the  subject. 

"  9.  In  all  other  respects  the  factory  must 
conform  to  the  laws  and  commercial  regulations 
actually  in  force,  or  which  may  be  promulgated 
hereafter. 

"  You  will  not  fail  to  take,  as  far  as  you  are 
concerned,  the  necessary  measures  for  the  exe- 
cution  of  the  present."  — /owrwa/  de  St.  Peters- 
boiirg. 

ESTABLISHMENTS   CONNECTED   WITH   THE 

GOVERNMENT. 

FORTRESS. 

This  is  raised  on  the  extremity  of  the  cliff  to 
the  north-east  of  Odessa,  and  in  consequence  of 
its  elevated  situation  commands  the  town.  In 
fact,  the  only  spot  from  which  an  almost  entire 
view  of  the  latter  can  be  obtained  is  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  former.  It  is  composed  of 
earth,  and  contains  within  its  enclosure  several 
buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  troops,  &c., 
but  no  cannon  appear  to  be  mounted;  and  I 
imagine  some  time  would  be  necessary  in  order 
to  render  it  effective  :  however,  it  seems  unlikely 
that  it  will  again  be  required  as  the  means  of 
defence.  It  serves  at  present  for  no  other  pur- 
pose than  to  render  the  quarantine,  which  has 


\ 


I 


I 


i 


■'  I 


270 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


271 


been  constructed  on  the  declivity  between  it  and 
the  sea,  inaccessible  from  the  land  side. 

GARRISON. 

The  strength  of  the  garrison  varies,  of  course, 
according  to  circumstances.  It  used  to  consist 
of  two  regiments  of  infantry,  one  of  chasseurs,  a 
company  of  horse  artillery,  a  company  of  garrison 
artillery,  and  a  battalion  of  veterans.  During  the 
visit  of  the  Empress  to  Odessa,  in  18^28,  several 
squadrons  of  lancers  of  the  Boug  and  a  park  of 
artillery  were  encamped  near  Her  Majesty's 
country  residence. 

BARRACKS. 

When  Odessa  was  first  laid  out,  the  barracks, 
as  already  observed,  were  placed  between  the 
town  and  the  sea-shore  ;  the  ill-judged  situation 
and  insufficiency  of  which  occasioned  new  ones 
to  be  afterwards  built  upon  the  opposite  side  of 
the  place,  and  at  regular  distances,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  defending  it  from  being  taken  by  a  coup 
de  main.  The  greater  part  of  these,  however, 
which  appeared  Hke  dungeons,  were  lately  pulled 
down,  —  all  probability  of  an  attack  from  Turkey 
being  now  at  an  end, — while  handsomer  and  more 
appropriate  barracks  have  been  erected  near  the 
entrance  of  the  town  by  the  barrier  of  Cherson. 

PRISON. 

This  was  completed  about  four  years  ago ;  and 
although  a  palace  when  compared  with  the  former 
place  of  confinement,  which  Lyall  denominated 
(justly,  as  far  as  I  can  learn,)  **une  veritable 


cochonnerie,"  yet  it  is  constructed  without  at- 
tention to  any  of  the  enlightened  principles  which 
of  late  have  influenced  the  formation  of  prisons 
in  other  countries.  It  is  a  large  oblong  building 
of  stone,  whitewashed  over,  with  turrets  at  the 
four  corners,  surrounded  with  high  walls,  and, 
like  all  prisons  in  Russia,  is  guarded  by  a  de- 
tachment of  soldiers.  Of  its  internal  arrange- 
ment I  know  nothing,  except  that,  up  to  the 
summer  of  1828,  it  had  neither  a  chapel  nor  an 
infinnary ! 

POLICE  OFFICE. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  placed  an  extensive  yard, 
having  some  miserable  ground-floor  buildings  on 
two  sides  of  it,  a  part  of  which  is  employed  as 
the  police  office,  and  the  remainder  contains 
places  of  confinement  of  the  most  miserable  and 
filthy  description  possible.  The  captivity  of  a 
British  subject  in  one  of  these  (which  will  be 
referred  to  hereafter)  brought  me  often  into  it, 
and  I  cannot  refrain  from  expressing  myself 
freely  and  strongly  upon  the  subject.  The 
police  office  and  dungeons  of  Odessa,  in  my 
opinion,  are  a  disgrace  to  the  local  government. 

COMMITTEE    OF   HEALTH. 

This  was  one  among  the  wise  institutions  of 
the  Duke  de  Richelieu,  and  is  perfectly  uncon- 
nected with  the  Board  of  Health  attached  to  the 
quarantine.  Its  object  is  to  ascertain  the  general 
state  of  health  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  by 
watching  the  mortality;  and  if  a  greater  number 
of  persons  than  ordinary  appear  to  have  died 


V 


•  < 


I 


V 


^2 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


273 


within  a  given  period,  to  investigate  its  cause ; 
to  detect,  in  short,  the  presence  of  the  plague  or 
other  contagious  diseases  in  the  town,  imme- 
diately upon  their  introduction  or  occurrence. 
Its  members  consist  of  physicians,  merchants, 
officers  of  the  police,  and  other  persons  who  may 
be  deemed  capable  of  assisting  in  the  objects  for 
which  it  was  established.  The  jurisdiction  of 
this  committee  is  permanent,  a  certain  number 
of  its  members  being  always  engaged  in  their 
official  duties.  It  usually  meets  once  a  fortnight, 
when  a  report  is  made  of  all  that  has  passed  since 
the  last  sitting ;  but  if  extraordinary  circum- 
stances require  it,  the  members  are  called  toge- 
ther at  shorter  intervals. 

POST-OFFICE. 

A  mean  and  dirty  building  in  the  Strada  della 
Posta  is  appropriated  to  the  business  of  this 
establishment.  As,  however,  the  arrangements 
of  the  post  at  St.  Petersburg  are  of  the  most 
defective  nature  *,  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that 
those  at  Odessa  are  better.  Accordingly  we  find 
even  the  Odessa  Gazette,  the  organ  of  the  local 
government,  complaining  of  the  ncghgence  dis- 
played by  the  Post-office  in  the  transmission  of 
that  journal  to  its  subscribers  in  the  interior. 

♦  Observe  how  delicately  the  author  of"  St.  Petersburg" 
alludes  to  this  fact : — "At  present  it  is  admitted  on  all  hands, 
in  the  Russian  capital,  that  the  mode  of  doing  business  at 
the  post-office  in  St.  Petersburg  is  not  the  best  that  could  be 
adopted^'  (St.  Petersburg,  vol.  ii.  p.  85.)  instead  of  saying, 
is  the  tvorst  that  could  be  adopted. 


RELIGIOUS  ESTABLISHMENTS. 
CATHEDRAL. 

In  a  large  and  irregularly  shaped  place,  about 
the  centre  of  the  town,  is  situated  the  cathedral 
of  St.  Nicholas,  devoted  to  the  celebration  of  the 
Greek  or  established  religion  of  Russia.     It  is 
built  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  surmounted  by  a 
dome  and  cupola,  the  east  and  west  fa9ades  being 
simihir  to  each  other  and  handsome.     Its  walls 
are  of  stone  whitewashed,  and  the  roof  is  covered 
with  iron  plates  painted  green ;  the  whole  being 
surrounded  by  a  wooden  raihng  resting  on  stone 
pillars,  within  the  enclosure  of  whicli  are  planted 
poplars.    Internally,  the  cathedral  is  divided  into 
the  body  and  the  sanctuary;  the  latter  resembling 
a  temple,  supported  by  eight  columns,  painted 
in  imitation  of  marble,  and  is  separated  from  the 
rest  of  the  building  by  doors  and  a  curtain,  which 
are  closed  during  certain  parts  of  the  service. 

CATHOLIC    CHURCH. 

It  is  rather  singular  that  this  was  the  first 
church  built  in  Odessa ;  but  the  cause  will  be 
explained  on  remembering  that  the  Duke  de 
Richelieu,  the  Governor-general,  was  himself  a 
Catholic.  It  is,  in  many  respects,  similar  to  the 
cathedral,  which,  with  a  few  necessary  alterations, 
was  probably  copied  from  the  Catholic  church ; 


m 


^ 


ifi 


. 


{ 


274 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


and  both  may  justly  be  described  as  handsome 
buildings, 

THE    GREEK    CHURCH 

Has  nothing  particular  in  its  proportions  or  or- 
naments except  the  spire,  which,  being  visible  at 
sea  from  a  considerable  distance,  serves  frequently 
as  a  landmark  to  sailors  entering  the  harbour. 


,i( 


RASCOLNICS    CHURCH. 

TheRascolnics*,  or  Schismatics,  had  also  their 
church ;  but  by  the  operation  of  the  knout  and 
Siberia,  they  have  of  late  years  conformed  to  the 
estiiblished  religion. 

*  Their  tenets  may  be  guessed  by  the  following  extract 
from  Dr.  Macmichael's  Journey,  p.  31. :  — 

«*  With  respect  to  religion,  all  sects  are  tolerated  by  the 
policy  of  the   government,  with    the   exception   of  those 
visionaries  who  are  more  particularly  designated   by  the 
appellation  of  *  Rascolnics.*  As  their  tenets  are  particularly 
hostile  to  the  principle  of  population,  of  the  energies  of  which 
the  empire  stands  so  much  in  need,  every  effort  is  made  to 
put  a  stop  to  the  fanaticism  of  these  deluded  wretches.  But, 
notwithstanding  the  severest  enactments,  a  melancholy  in- 
stance occurred,  during  our  stay  at  Moskow,  of  the  effects  of 
this  insane  and  incredible  bigotry,  under  the  influence  of 
which  a  father  had  performed  a  most  cruel  operation  upon 
his  infant  son.     The  tender  age  of  the  child  prevented  the 
complete  success  of  the  experiment,  and  there  was  a  pro- 
bability of  his  ultimate  recovery.    The  father  was  sentenced 
to  be  exiled  to  Siberia  for  his  literal  and  absurd  interpreta- 
tion of  a  verse  in  *  the  Revelations.'  " 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


275 


JEWS*    SYNAGOGUE. 

The  Jews'  synagogue  is  in  the  Strada  Riche- 
lieu.  It  is  of  plain  contruction  and  in  bad 
repair,  —a  circumstance  attributable  to  the  love 
of  money  which  characterises  this  sect. 

BURYING  GROUNDS. 
GREEK    BURYING    GROUND. 

Beyond,  the  southern  extremity  of  the  town, 
just  within  the  ditch  surrounding  it  on  the  land 
side,    is   situated   the   Greek   burying  ground, 
which  contains  several  acres,  with  a  small  church 
for  the  performance  of  the  funeral  rites.     It  has 
several  interesting  monuments,    and  is  encom- 
passed  by  a  wall  of  stone.     No  person,  unless  he 
have  professed  the  Greek  religion,   can  be  in- 
terred in  this  ground.     It  is  usual  among  the  in- 
habitants of  Odessa  to  bury  their  dead  at  a  very 
early  period  after   dissolution :  thus  Dr.  Orlai, 
the  principal  of  the  Lycee  Richelieu,  died  on 
the  nth  of  March,  in  the  afternoon,  and  the 
next  day  I  received  an  invitation  to  attend  his 
funeral  on  the  13th.     The  evening  previous  to 
the    interment   of  a   corpse  belonging   to   the 
higher  classes,  it  is  conveyed  to  the  cathedral, 
where  it  remains  during  the  night,  and  on  the 
following  morning  is  carried  through  the  streets, 
with  the  coffin  lid  open  to  the  burying  ground. 
There  are  certain  regulations  with  respect  to  in- 
terments,  which  are  worthy   of  notice.     It  is, 
strictly  forbidden  for  any  body  to  be  buried  unless 

T  2 


i 

in 


^6 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


it  shall  have  been  visited  by  the  physician  of  the 
day,  belonging  to  the  Committee  of  Health,  with 
the  view  of  ascertaining  the  apparent  nature  of 
the  complaint  of  which  the  deceased  died.  The 
priests  of  every  religion  are  also  bound  to  inform 
some  member  of  the  Committee  of  Health  when- 
ever  their  presence  is  required  for  a  funeral; 
and  this  latter  cannot  take  place  without  a 
previous   authorisation. 

jews'  burying  ground. 

On  the  Steppe  just  beyond  the  Greek  burying 
ground,  and  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  is  situ- 
ated that  belonging  to  the  Jews,  which  is  of  very 
small  dimensions. 


PLAGUE    BURYING    GROUND. 

A  short  distance  from  the  preceding,  is  the 
plague  burying  ground,  the  destination  of  which 
is  evident  from  its  name.  It  has  lately  been 
inclosed  with  wooden  rails  painted  green,  and 
trees  have  been  planted  round  the  interior. 
There  are  no  stones  or  other  marks  denoting 
where  the  victims  of  this  dreadful  scourge  repose; 
but  two  large  inequalities  in  the  ground,  now 
covered  with  grass,  seem  to  indicate  the  previous 
existence  of  as  many  pits,  into  which  the  bodies 
were  thrown.  Two  thousand  six  hundred  and 
fifty-six  persons  were  buried  here  who  died  of 
the  plague  at  Odessa  in  1812  and  1813  ;  since 
when,  until  last  year  (18^9),  no  cases  of  it  have 
occurred  in  the  town. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


277 


CHARITABLE  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


TOWN  HOSPITAL. 

On  the  left  of  the  Strada  Chersona,  just  at  its 
commencement,  is  situated  the  Town  Hospital. 
This  is  a  large  and  handsome  edifice,  two  stories 
high,  of  semicircular  form,  ornamented  with  a 
pediment  and  columns,  and  having  a  large  court 
in  front  separated  from  the  street  by  a  dwarf 
wall  surmounted  with  wooden  railings.  Its  ex- 
ternal appearance  is  imposing,  and  adds  much  to 
the  beauty  of  the  street  in  which  it  is  placed;  but 
the  interior  is  most  injudiciously  and  incom- 
modiously arranged,  and  its  condition,  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  was  not  such  as  to  confer  credit 
on  those  concerned  either  in  its  medical  or 
general  management.  In  May,  18^8,  I  accom- 
panied  Sir  James  Wylie  during  an  official  in- 
spection  of  this  institution.  We  found  the  wards 
extremely  filthy,  and  the  air  abominably  impure; 
the  windows  being  apparently  always  closed, 
notwithstanding  the  heat  of  the  weather.  The 
patients  were  in  a  state  of  the  greatest  unclean- 
liness ;  and,  from  their  miserable  appearance.  Sir 
James  expressed  his  belief  to  me,  in  which 
I  perfectly  coincided,  that  they  were  **  half 
starred,**  This  opinion  was,  moreover,  strength- 
ened by  the  indolent  character  of  the  sores  in 
several  of  them,  and  from  the  presence  of  land 
scurvy,  which  prevailed  to  a  great  extent.  I  re- 
marked to  Sir  James  the  impurity  of  the  air,  — 

T  3 


iV 


t  M 


I) 


f 


\ 


^278 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


suggesting  the  necessity  of  ventilation,  — and  he 
ordered  the  windows  to  be  immediately  opened. 
In  one  small  chamber,  containing  a  poor  officer 
labouring  under  consumption,  there  was  a  stove, 
by  which  it  had  been  rendered  so  hot  *  that  I 
could  hardly  bear  to  remain  in  it.    We  examined 
many  of  the  patients  minutely,   and   our   visit 
occupied  at  least  two  hours ;  on  the  conclusion 
of  which  Sir  James  reprimanded  some  of  the 
officers  severely,  and  expressed  his  unqualified 
disapprobation  of  the  state  in  which  he  found 
the  hospital.    Dr.  Lyall  t  makes  the  following  ob- 
servations upon  the  subject :  —  "  The  lower  story 
we   found   occupied   by   a   dirty   kitchen,    half 
filled  with  dried  weeds  for  fuel ;  the  baths,  the 
apothecary's    shop,    store   rooms,    the    council 
chamber,  and  the  physicians'  rooms."  — "  Ex- 
cellent corridors  run  through  both  stories,  but  the 
rooms  are  not  well  arranged  for  a  general  hos- 
pital.     Their  ceiUng  is  unnecessarily  lofty,  and 
the  windows  are  covered  by  internal  building  to 
the  height  of  about  seven  feet  from  the  floor. 
Though  ventilators  are  made  in  the  walls,  both 
above  and  below  the  windows,  we  found  the  air 
very  bad  for   the   want  of  renewal."  —  "  Bad 
smells  and  filth  met  us  at  every  step,  and  we  were 
glad  to  escape  from  an  institution  so  ill  arranged." 
The  hospital  was  intended  to  hold  240  patients, 
besides  which  sick  prisoners  from  the  jail  used 

*  In  my  opinion,  the  military  hospitals  in  St.  Petersburg, 
even,  are  kept  too  hot. 

f  Vide  Travels  in  Russia,  vol.  i.  p.  179,  180. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


^9 


also  to  be  sent  there;  but,  when  I  left  Odessa,  it 
was  filled  with  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  from 
the  army  in  Turkey,  and  the  mortality  that  oc- 
curred was  appalling :  indeed,  none  but  the  me- 
dical men  employed  can  form  any  adequate  idea 
on  the  subject ;  and  they,  as  well  as  the  local 
government,  will  of  course  take  care  that  its  real 
extent  shall  never  be  known. 


i 


4  ii 


BENEVOLENT    SOCIETY    OF    THE    LADIES    OF    NEW 

RUSSIA. 

This  institution  is  as  yet  only  upon  paper. 
Subjoined,  however,  are  the  regulations  which 
have  recently  been  published  respecting  its  form- 
ation :  — 

"1.  This  Benevolent  Society  shall  be  composed 
of  all  ladies  who,  from  charitable  motives,  engage 
to  contribute  annually  to  the  chest  of  the  society 
the  sum  of  25  roubles  of  the  Assignation  Bank. 

"  2.  All  those  making  this  praiseworthy  offer- 
ing shall  be  members  of  the  Benevolent  Society, 
may  assist  at  its  general  assemblies,  give  their 
opinions,  and  have  always  the  right  to  demand 
assistance  from  the  society  for  poor  persons  with 
whose  situation  and  conduct  they  are  perfectly 
acquainted. 

"  3.  The  society  shall  be  governed  by  a  coun- 
cil composed  of  twelve  members,  the  election  of 
whom,  as  well  as  that  of  the  president,  cannot 
take  place  except  in  a  general  assembly  of  the 
ladies  of  the  society. 

"  4.  The  occupations  of  the  society  shall  be, 

T  4 


^ 


I 


t» 


280 


RISE,    PROGRESS,   AND 


first,  to  take  care  of  poor  orphans  of  both  sexes ; 
secondly,  to  visit  the  benevolent  institutions 
which  are  are  under  the  direction  of  the  council 
of  general  tutelage  ;  thirdly,  to  assist  the  sick, 
the  poor,  and  the  infirm  who  require  its  benevo- 
lence and  medical  care ;  fourthly,  to  find  new 
means  and  more  abundant  sources  for  the  relief 
of  the  poor — employing  for  this  end  the  personal 
relations  of  each  member,  as  also  the  efforts  and 
the  united  influence  of  all  the  ladies  who  inhabit 
the  provinces  of  southern  Russia. 

"  5.  The  council  of  the  Benevolent  Society,  to 
which  these  interesting  duties  will  be  specially 
confided,  shall  assemble  on  the  Saturday  of  each 
week,  to  confer  together,  and  to  hear  the  propo- 
sitions of  the  ladies  composing  it. 

«*  6.  Twice  a  year,  that  is  to  say,  at  Easter  and 
in  the  month  of  November,  a  general  meeting  of 
the  society  shall  be  summoned,  to  receive  the 
accounts,  and  to  confirm  the  new  regulations  for 
the  advantage  of  the  poor.  In  addition  to  these 
two  meetings,  extraordinary  ones  may  be  called 
if  the  president  should  find  it  necessary. 

"  7.  The  Benevolent  Society  of  New  Russia 
shall  have  a  secretary,  a  treasurer,  one  or  more 
physicians  for  the  poor,  and  a  midwife,  who  will 
consent,  through  charity  towards  their  neigh- 
bours, to  take  part  in  the  occupations  of  the 
society. 

"8.  This  summary  shall  serve  as  the  funda- 
mental basis  of  the  occupations  of  the  Benevolent 
Society  of  New  Russia,  on  the  foregoing  regula- 


PHESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


281 


fions  receiving  the  confirmation  of  the  govern- 
ment. In  the  mean  while,  the  society  will  take 
for  its  guide  the  statutes  of  the  Patriotic  Society 
of  St.  Petersburg.** 

These  principles  having  been  submitted  to  the 
government,  were  sanctioned  by  His  Imperial 
Majesty  the  Emperor,  upon  the  condition  that 
the  members  of  the  aforesaid  society,  without 
interfering  in  the  administration  of  the  establish- 
ments of  general  tutelage,  shall,  however,  have 
the  power  to  make  any  observations  to  the  Go- 
vernor of  the  town,  or  to  the  Curators,  upon  the 
manner  in  which  these  establishments  are  con- 
ducted. 

By  virtue  of  the  confirmation  of  His  Imperial 
Majesty,  the  opening  of  the  Benevolent  Society 
of  the  ladies  of  Southern  Russia  will  take  place 
as  soon  as  possible.  In  the  mean  time  benevo- 
lent ladies  are  invited  to  take  part  in  this  good 
work ;  and  those  who  desire  to  become  members 
may  ask  for  the  subscription  paper,  which  is  left 
at  the  chancery  of  His  Excellency  the  Governor- 
general. 


!> 


ti 


(' 


w 


SOCIETY    OF    PRISON    DISCIPLINE. 

• 

This  was  founded  in  the  year  1828,  upon  a 
similar  plan  to  that  established  at  St.  Petersburg, 
in  imitation  of  the  London  society  of  the  same 
name.  It  sounds  well  to  hear  even  of  the  exist- 
ence of  such  a  society  in  Russia ;  but  let  no  one 
imagine  that  it  can  be  of  much  service.  I  was 
proposed  and  unanimously  elected  a  member  of 


'282 


RIS£,    PROGRESS,    AND 


this  society,  paid  my  subscription  *,  and  attended 
one  meeting ;  but  never  took  any  further  part  in 
its  proceedings,  for  the  following  reason  :  —  One 
of  the  members,  with  whom  I  was  on  intimate 
terms,  and  who  had  heard  me  express  my  deter- 
mination of  endeavouring,  as  far  as  I  could,  to 
bring  the  defects  and  abuses  existing  in  the  gaol 
before  the  notice  of  the  committee,  gave  me  a 
friendly  caution  in  the  following  words : — **  What 
you  are  about  to  do,  Doctor,  reflects  great  credit 
upon  your  feelings ;  but  allow  me,  who  have 
lived  a  longer  time  in  Russia,  and  know  more 
of  it  than  you,  to  give  a  little  wholesome  advice, 
or  you  will  be  getting  into  difficulties.  While 
inspecting  the  prison,  you  may  observe  whether 
it  be  kept  clean  or  otherwise ;  whether  properly 
warmed  or  not ;  you  may  suggest  improvements 
in  the  form  of  the  building,  and  give  your  opi- 
nion upon  the  state  of  health  in  the  prisoners,  if 
you  like ;  but  you  must  not  do  more :  it  is  no 
business  of  yours  ;  nor  must  you  enquire  for  what 
crime  they  are  confined,  and  whether  justly  or 
not :  that  is  a  subject  for  the  tribunals  alone  to 
decide  upon,  and  I  advise  you  to  hold  your 
tongue  respecting  it."  I  felt  obliged  for  the 
hint,  and  determined  to  have  nothing  further  to 
do  with  the  society,  as  I  did  not  seem  likely  to 
be  of  any  service,  and  might  even  compromise 

*  The  subscription  is  20  roubles  per  annum  :  I  gave  a 
25  rouble  note,  but  have  never  received  the  change  up  to 
this  moment ;  which  I  mention  merely  on  account  of  the 
characteristic  nature  of  the  circumstance. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


283 


my  own  safety  by  attempting  it.  The  printed 
order,  therefore,  which,  as  one  of  the  committee, 
I  had  received  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the 
prison,  I  kept  by  me  unused. 


.) 


si 


SCIENTIFIC  ESTABLISHMENTS. 
MUSEUM. 

The  Museum  of  Odessa  has  only  existed  about 
four  years ;  being  composed,  1  believe,  at  first 
merely  of  the  private  collection  of  ancient  coins 
and  other  antiquities  formed  by  M.  Blaremberg, 
which  having  been  purchased  for  the  town  as 
the  ?iucleus  of  a  museum,  that  gentleman  was 
deservedly  appointed  its  curator.  No  appropriate 
building  has  yet  been  constructed  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  curiosities.  A  convulsion  of  nature 
which  took  place  in  April,  18^8  (and  which  ap- 
pears to  have  resembled  an  earthquake},  afforded 
the  means  of  adding  an  interesting  object  to  the 
museum.  During  the  night,  a  considerable  portion 
of  the  cliff  in  front  and  forming  part  of  the  New 
Boulevard  was  thrown  down,  while  the  ground 
between  it  and  the  sea,  for  a  distance  of  about 
half  a  mile,  was  rent  in  parallel  fissures,  varying 
in  width  from  a  few  inches  to  several  yards,  and 
with  such  tremendous  force,  that  even  immense 
masses  of  rock,  which  happened  to  lie  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  fissures,  were  riven  in  two.  On 
minutely  examining  the  spot  afterwards,  innu- 
merable fragments  of  stone,  human  bones,  bricks, 
&c.  were  found  exposed  to  view  —  some  having 


284 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


t^ 


even  been  projected  into  the  sea ;  and  among 
them  appeared  the  interesting  object  above  al- 
luded to,  namely,  the  femur  of  an  animal  of  pro- 
digious size,  supposed  to  be  that  of  a  mammoth, 
such  as  are  met  with  in  the  Steppe  of  Otschakoft* 
upon  the  heights  which  overlook  the  river  Boug. 

IMPERIAL    AGRICULTURAL    ESTABLISIIiMENT. 

In  the  year  1819  the  establishment  which  bears 
this  name  was  formed  on  the  Steppe  southward 
of  the  town,  and  at  no  great  distance  from  it. 
It  is  a  nursery  for  fruit  and  forest  trees, — an  es- 
tablishment much  wanted  at  Odessa,  and  which 
may  be  of  the  greatest  advantage  to  it.  M. 
Schmitz,  a  German,  conducts  the  establishment, 
which  is  supported  by  an  annual  donation  of 
10,000  roubles  from  the  Emperor,  certain  sums 
advanced  by  the  town,  and  what  may  be  derived 
from  the  sale  of  trees,  shrubs,  &c. 

AGRICULTURAL    SOCIETY    OF    SOUTHERN    RUSSIA. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  year  1828,  several 
landed  proprietors  of  New  Russia  formed  the 
project  of  establishing  a  society  of  agriculture, 
to  bear  the  above  title ;  which  being  communi- 
cated by  Count  Vorontzof,  through  the  Minister 
of  the  Interior,  to  the  Emperor,  His  Majesty 
Avas  pleased  not  only  to  approve  of  the  plan,  but 
to  order  that  the  sum  of  5000  roubles  should 
be  annually  allowed  from  the  imperial  treasury, 
towards  defraying  the  necessary  expenses  of 
carrying   it   into   execution  ;    the   chamber   of 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


285 


A 


finances  of  Cherson  being  authorised,  from  the 
date  of  the  ukase,  to  pay  over  the  above  sum 
on  demand  of  the  Governor-general  for  the  time 
being.  The  following  are  the  objects  of  the 
society,  as  contained  in  their  printed  pro- 
spectus :  — 

"  1.  That  it  shall  occupy  itself  exclusively 
with  rural  economy,  and  especially  with  those 
branches  thereof  which  apply,  or  are  capable  of 
being  applied,  to  Southern  Russia ;  such  as  the 
culture  of  wheat  and  other  corn,  and  the  thresh- 
ing  and  improvement  of  their  respective  produce. 

"  2.  The  propagation  and  improvement  of  the 
breed,  and  fattening  of  horned  cattle. 

**  3.  The  rearing  and  improvement  of  sheep 
for  wool. 

"  4.  The  means  of  improving  the  preparation 
of  their  various  products ;  such  as  the  fabrication 
of  tallow,  the  curing  of  hides,  bleaching  and 
sorting  of  wool,  &c. 

"  5.  The  introduction  and  culture  of  plants 
adapted  for  forage. 

"  6.  The  planting  and  culture  of  the  vine, 
and  the  most  advantageous  processes  for  making 
wine. 

"  7.  The  planting  and  culture  of  the  mulberry, 
and  the  raising  of  silk  worms. 

"  8.  The  planting  and  culture  of  the  most  pro- 
ductive  fruit  trees,  such  as  olives,  almonds,  &c. ; 
also  forest  trees. 

"  9.  The  introduction  and  culture  of  plants 
for  the  purpose  of  making  oil,  and  to  be  employed 


it 


I  ■ 


\ 


286 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


in  manufactures  ;  such  as  the  wild  cabbage, 
cotton,  &c.,  and  others  which  will  suit  the  soil 
and  climate. 

«  10.   The  introduction,  trial,  and  improve- 
ment  of  agricultural  instruments. 

"  11.  The  means  of  making  known  to  the 
agriculturists  of  New  Russia  the  results  of  expe- 
riments, and  the  observations  which  the  society 
shall  have  made,  or  obtained  by  means  of  its 
members ;  as  well  as  the  improvements  and  dis- 
coveries in  agriculture,  occurring  in  foreign 
countries,  which  may  come  to  the  knowledge  of 
the  society,  and  which  it  may  consider  useful 
and  applicable  to  the  agriculture  of  Southern 

Russia.'* 

«*  The  society,  while  thus  tracing  the  sphere  of 
its  general  objects,  reserves  to  itself  the  power  of 
extending  its  enquiries  to  other  points  of  rural 
economy,  if  experience  should  ultimately  demon- 
strate the  utility  of  so  doing." 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1829,  the  society  held 
its  first  meeting  at  the  house  of  the  Governor- 
general,  when  the  members  were  informed  of  its 
confirmation  by  the  Emperor  j  and  having  chosen 
their  first  officers,  adjourned.  Such  an  institution, 
if  conducted  with  spirit  and  ability,  might  pro- 
duce the  greatest  benefits  j  but,  as  a  first  step, 
an  agricultural  journal  ought  to  be  connected 
with  it:  the  press,  however,  is  so  shackled  in 
Russia,  that  this  privilege  might  perhaps  be  dif- 
ficult  to  obtain. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


287 


ESTABLISHMENT  FOR  THE  PREPARATION  OF 

MINERAL  WATERS. 

• 

During  the  residence  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas 
at  Odessa,  in  1828,  Count  Vorontzof  obtained 
permission  to  establish  a  Joint  Stock  Company, 
with  a  capital  of  50,000  roubles,  in  200  shares 
of  250  roubles  each,  in  order  to  form  an  establish- 
ment for  the  preparation  of  artificial '  mineral 
waters,  after  the  manner  pursued  in  several  towns 
on  the  Continent  and  in  England.  M.  Berzelius 
of  Stockholm  was  then  requested  to  nominate  a 
gentleman  qualified  to  superintend  the  proposed 
institution  ;  and  a  Professor  Hartval  has  been  pre- 
vailed upon  (no  doubt  by  the  influence  of  great 
promises)  to  come  to  Odessa  for  that  purpose. 
In  the  early  part  of  1829,  this  gentleman  was 
said  to  be  busily  occupied  in  the  preparation  of 
the  necessary  apparatus ;  it  being  also  asserted, 
that,  during  the  following  summer,  the  establish- 
ment would  be  in  full  operation,  at  a  house  in 
the  public  garden,  which  the  local  government 
had  devoted  to  its  use. 


I4i 


\i 


i 


r 


(   i^ 


ESTABLISHMENTS  FOR  EDUCATION. 
LYCEUM    OF    RICHELIEU. 

The  daily  increasing  importance  of  Odessa  as 
a  commercial  town,  its  numerous  population,  dis- 
tance from  the  university  of  KharkofF  and  other 
good  schools,  gave  rise,  in  1817,  to  the  resolution 
of  forming  there  a  public  institution,  wherein  the 
higher  as  well  as  the  more  common  branches  of 


I 


288 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


instruction  should  be  taught,  and  which  should 
supersede  the  "  Gymnasium,**  the  "  Institute," 
and  the  parochial  schools  already  established. 
It  was,  moreover,  determined  to  call  it  the 
"  Lyceum  of  Richelieu,"  from  the  fact  of  the 
Duke  de  Richelieu  having  contributed,  towards 
the  support  of  the  establislnnent,  the  annual  sum 
of  3260  thallers,  which  had  been  granted  to  him 
by  the  Russian  government  as  a  recompence  for 
his  distinguislied  services ;  and  the  Emperor  Alex- 
ander confirmed  the  plan  on  the  2d  of  May  in 
that  year. 

Its  funds  are  composed  principally  of  the  do- 
nation already  mentioned  ;  a  tax  of  ten  kopecks 
copper  upon  every  tchetvert  of  grain  exported 
from  Odessa ;  the  sum  of  0500  roubles  payable 
annually  by  the  government  for  the  support  of 
the  Gymnasium  ;  an  equal  sum  agreed  to  be  paid 
by  the  merchants  of  Odessa ;  and  the  profits  de- 
rived from  the  boarders. 

It  is  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Governor 
of  Odessa,  and  a  committee  of  four  members, 
chosen  from  the  parents  or  guardians  of  pupils 
in  the  establishment. 

A  splendid  plan  had  been  drawn  up  for  the 
Lyceum,  which,  in  1817,  was  printed  at  Paris, 
in  quarto,  (a  copy  of  which  was  presented  to  me 
by  my  respected  friend.  Dr.  Orlai,  its  late  di- 
rector;) and  it  was  intended  that  a  magnificent 
building  should  be  erected  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
fortress,  for  the  purposes  of  the  institution :  but 
these  plans  were  never  carried  into  effect,  and 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


289 


the  buildings  formerly  appropriated  to  the  Gym- 
nasium and  the  Institute  were  repaired  and  con- 
verted into  the  present  Lyceum  of  Richelieu. 

Tlie  structure  which  bears  this  name  is  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  can  by  no  means 
be  described  as  an  elegant  specimen  of  architec- 
ture. One  of  its  fa9ades  forms  part  of  the  Strada 
Ribas,  and  two  others  are  similarly  circumstanced 
with  respect  to  different  streets.  Its  site  encloses 
an  oblong  space  of  considerable  dimensions,  which 
is  divided  in  the  middle  by  a  line  of  building,  thus 
forming  two  courts  for  the  recreation  and  exer- 
cise of  the  pupils. 

The  internal  management  of  the  Lyceum  is 
vested  in  a  director  or  principal,  and  several  pro- 
fessors  or  masters :  two  priests,  one  of  the  Greek, 
and  the  otlier  of  the  Catholic  faith,  are  attached 
to  the  institution,  in  order  to  perform  divine  ser- 
vice, and  to  instruct  the  pupils  in  the  principles 
of  tlieir  respective  religions.  The  Abbe  Nicholle 
was  the  first  director,  who  is  said  to  have  been  a 
learned  and  able  man.  His  successor  was  a 
gentleman  formerly  his  assistant,  who  held  the 
office  for  some  time,  and,  although  considered  a 
man  of  talent,  yet  the  institution  never  flourished 
under  his  auspices.  In  the  year  1822  or  1823, 
the  late  Dr.  Orlai,  a  man  no  less  respected  for 
his  simplicity  of  manners  than  for  his  talent  and 
erudition  *,  was  appointed  to  its  superintendence, 
and  continued  to  hold  that  office  until  his  death 


/ 


( 


*  Sir  James  Wylie  says,  he  was  "  the  best  classical  scholar 
in  Russia." 

U 


290 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


in  the  year  1829.  Shortly  after  my  arrival  at 
Odessa  I  went  over  the  whole  of  the  Lyceum, 
in  company  with  Dr.  Orlai ;  the  number  of  scho- 
lars then  amounting  to  three  hundred.  The 
boarders  wear  an  uniform  like  the  military,  con- 
sisting of  dark  green  trowsers  and  coat,  edged 
with  red,  and  cloth  foraging  caps.  The  Doctor 
told  me  during  this  visit,  that  on  his  receiving 
the  appointment  of  director,  he  found  the  whole 
establishment  in  confusion;  the  professors  wil- 
fully neglected  to  perform  their  duty,  and  all  sub- 
ordination was  at  an  end ;  while  the  funds  were 
embezzled  and  squandered :  in  short,  every  thing 
was  going  to  ruin.  "  I  immediately,"  said  he, 
"  discharged  one  half  of  the  professors,  who  were 
by  far  too  numerous  for  the  duty  to  be  performed. 
Much  still  requires  to  be  done :  I  have  only  com- 
menced the  work  of  reformation.'*  He  intro- 
duced several  very  good  regulations,  and  the  in- 
stitution once  more  began  to  flourish  under  his 
judicious  management.  It  has  three  principal 
divisions,  namely,  the  First  School,  the  Gymna- 
sium, and  the  Lyceum.  The  first  of  these,  as  its 
name  imports,  is  merely  a  preparatory  school, 
the  plan  of  instruction  adopted  being  the  Lan- 
casterian.  In  the  others,  the  higher  branches  of 
education  are  taught.  Each  of  the  three  divi- 
sions is  subdivided  into  classes,  to  which  different 
rooms  are  appropriated,  with  a  professor  in  each. 
When  the  hours  for  business  have  expired,  the 
pupils  are  in  large  separate  apartments,  one  be- 
longing to  the  Gymnasium,  and  another  to  the 


PRESENT   STATE   OF   ODESSA. 


^91 


» 


I 


Lyceum,  or,  in  their  respective  exercise  courts, 
where,  at  those  times,  a  superintendent  is  always 
present,  a  constant  check  being  thus  maintained 
upon  their  actions.     Each  of  the  two  latter  divi- 
sions has  also  its  dormitory ;  and  in  a  large  re- 
fectory on  the  ground  floor  the  pupils  dine  to- 
gether.     Three  rooms,  partitioned  off  from  the 
rest  of  the  building,  serve  as  an  infirmary  for  the 
sick ;  there  is  also  a  Greek  church  for  scholars 
of  the  established  faith,  and  a  Catholic  place  of 
worship  for  those  of  the  latter  persuasion ;  but 
children  of  all  religions  are  admissible  into  the 
institution.     Appended  to  the  Lyceum  is  also  a 
supplementary,  or,  as  it  is  termed.  Pedagogic  class, 
consisting  of  twenty-four  pupils,  who  are  instructed 
for  the  express  purpose  of  becoming  future  mas- 
ters of  schools  in  different  parts  of  Russia. 

INSTITUTE  FOR  NOBLE  YOUNG  LADIES. 

The  Institute  of  Odessa  for  noble  young  ladies 
was  founded  in  the  year  1806,  by  M.  Volsey, 
existing  for  some  time  as  a  private  school ;  after- 
wards  the  Duke  de  Richelieu  took  it  under  his 
protection :  but  having  no  fixed  revenue  it  never 
flourished.  In  1821,  upon  the  representation  of 
Count  Langeron,  then  Governor-general,  a  cer- 
tain number  of  scholars  were  placed  there  at  the 
expense  of  the  crown ;  and  their  number  was 
increased  in  1824.  Latterly,  a  considerable  sum 
of  money  has  been  allowed  by  the  Emperor,  and 
a  new  organisation  has  given  the  Institute  in- 
creased  importance,  and  extended  its  sphere  of 

u  2 


id 


292 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


usefulness.  At  present  it  is  under  the  direction 
of  a  committee  of  surveillance,  composed  of  the 
Governor  of  the  town,  the  Marshal  of  the  nobi- 
lity in  the  government  of  Cherson,  the  Mayor  of 
Odessa,  and  three  members  nominated  by  the 
Governor-general  of  New  Russia,  the  whole  being 
under  the  orders  of  the  latter.  The  course  of 
instruction  followed  in  this  establishment  em- 
braces religion,  arithmetic,  history,  geography, 
with  the  Russian,  Italian,  and  French  languages. 
The  house  at  present  occupied  by  the  Institute, 
in  the  Rue  Sophie,  having  been  found  much  too 
small  for  the  increased  number  of  its  inmates, 
the  determination  was  formed  of  building  an  edi- 
fice expressly  for  their  reception,  the  first  stone 
of  which  was  laid  in  July,  1828. 

SCHOOL    FOR    ORIENTAL    LANGUAGES. 

Upon  the  Governor-generars  representation 
of  the  advantages  which  would  accrue  from  the 
establishment  of  a  school  for  Oriental  languages, 
the  Emperor  by  an  ukase,  dated  the  13th  of  Oc- 
tober, 1828,  authorised  the  formation  of  such  an 
institution  at  Odessa,  and  assigned  from  the  Im- 
perial treasury  the  sum  of  10,000  roubles  an- 
nually for  its  support.  The  Governor-general  is, 
moreover,  empowered  to  draw  from  the  revenues 
of  the  town  and  from  those  of  Bessarabia  a 
farther  sum  of  4000  roubles,  which  is  to  be 
specially  devoted  to  this  establishment 

The  local  government  has  already  taken  some 
measures  for  carrying  into  execution  the  pro- 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


293 


1 


posed  plan,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  school 
will  ere  long  be  established.  The  want  of  such 
an  institution  has,  for  a  considerable  time,  been 
felt  in  the  southern  provinces  of  Russia,  and  the 
advantages  which  it  may  be  expected  to  produce 
are  likewise  considerable.  The  immense  frontier, 
extending  from  Kiakhta  to  Kamenets-Podolsk, 
is  inhabited  by  people  among  whom  the  Turkish 
language  is  more  or  less  spoken ;  all  the  Mo- 
hamedan  inhabitants  of  the  Crimea,  and  the  pro- 
vinces of  the  Caucasus,  who  are  very  numerous, 
also  employ  the  same  medium  of  commu- 
nication. Odessa  possesses  the  means  of  es- 
tablishing Oriental  schools  which  do  not  exist 
elsewhere  in  the  empire :  it  is  easy  there  to  find 
good  masters,  and  pupils  can  easily  procure 
opportunities  of  speaking  the  Turkish  language.* 
In  March,  1829,  it  was  officially  announced  that 
arrangements  had  been  made  which  led  to  the 
expectation  that  the  school  would  be  speedily 
opened ;  and  such  persons  as  might  wish  to 
become  scholars  were  invited  to  apply  for  ad- 
mission at  the  Chancery  of  the  Governor-general. 
The  pupils  are  to  be  divided  into  two  classes,  — 
boarders  and  day  scholars.  The  former,  solely 
chosen  among  Russian  subjects,  will  receive  an 

*  These  were  the  ostensible  reasons  given  by  the  Russian 
government  for  the  foundation  of  this  establishment ;  but  I 
have  no  doubt,  that  the  expected  subjugation  of  Turkey  by 
Russia,  and  the  consequently  anticipated  want  of  employes 
speaking  the  Turkish  language,  was  the  chief  inducement 
to  its  formation.  It  may,  also,  have  reference  to  the  future 
designs  of  Russia  upon  our  East  Indian  possessions. 

u  3 


II 


294. 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


allowance  of  600  roubles  (about  twenty-five 
pounds  ten  shillings)  per  annum ;  and  after 
having  finished  their  studies,  will  be  bound  to 
serve  the  government,  in  quahty  of  interpreters, 
for  the  period  of  five  years.  They  will  undergo 
an  examination  previously  to  their  admission 
into  the  school.  The  day  scholars  may  attend 
the  courses  without  entering  into  any  engage- 
ment to  serve,  but  these  will  have  no  claim  to 
pecuniary  assistance  from  the  establishment, 
though,  on  the  completion  of  their  studies,  they 
may  demand  to  be  employed  by  the  government  of 
New  Russia  in  preference  to  other  competitors. 

The  principal  institutions  at  Odessa  for  the 
purposes  of  education  having  been  noticed,  it 
may  be  observed,  in  addition,  that  there  are  a 
few  private  academies  in  the  tow^n,  which,  like 
alehouses  with  us,  must  be  duly  licensed,  also  a 
free  school  appropriated  to  children  of  the  Jews, 
and  perhaps  others. 

ESTABLISHMENTS    FOR    RECREATION,    ETC. 

PMic  Gardefi, 
The  chief  entrance  to  this  is  from  the  Strada 
Ribas,  towards  which  it  has  open  wooden  railings. 
It  is  well  planted  with  small  trees,  many  of  them 
being  fruit  trees,  and  contains  several  agreeable 
walks.  It  has  existed  for  many  years,  and  is  a 
great  acquisition  to  the  town. 

Theatre, 
The  growing  importance  of  Odessa,  and  the 
augmentation  of  its  inhabitants,  occasioned  several 


\ 


PRESENT    STATE   OF    ODESSA. 


295 


years  ago  the  erection  of  a  temporary  theatre, 
which  has  since  been  replaced  by  a  permanent 
and  elegant  building  of  stone  devoted  to  the 
same  purpose,  constructed  from  the  designs  of 
M.  Thomon.  Its  four  fa9ades  are  in  a  simple 
style  of  architecture,  the  eastern  being  orna- 
mented with  a  peristyle  supported  by  columns. 
Russian  pieces  and  Italian  operas  are  acted  here 
on  alternate  nights ;  and  I  do  not  consider  the 
performances  by  any  means  inferior  to  those  at 
the  Italian  Opera  House  of  St.  Petersburgi 
The  prima  donna  receives  500/.  per  annum,  be- 
sides having  lodgings  and  a  calash  provided  for 
her. 

Tlie  Gub. 

An  immense  pile  of  building  erected  many 
years  ago  by  M.  Rainaud,  at  one  extremity  of 
the  Rue  Richelieu,  bears  this  curious  deno^ 
mination  :  in  it  is  found 

The  Assembli/  Roamj 

a  fine  oval  hall,  the  upper  part  of  which  is 
surrounded  by  a  gallery,  supported  by  pillars. 
It  is  capable  of  containing  1000  persons,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  Moskow  and  Petersburg, 
there  is  no  town  in  the  Russian  empire  which 
possesses  so  handsome  a  room.  It  also  serves 
for  the  Exchange  as  before  mentioned.  Within 
the  Club,  in  another  part  of  the  building,  facing 
the  theatre,  are  held  the  meetings  of  a  society 
denominated 

u  4 


i 


296 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


T^e  New  Hesoiirce. 

which  consists  of  the  principal  merchants  in 
the  town,  the  port-captain  and  other  officers, 
the  foreign  consuls,  &c.  It  gives  balls  and 
dinners  occasionally,  and  has  a  reading  room. 
Formerly  there  existed  also  in  it  an 

Efiglish  Cluhy 

for  similar  purposes,  but  composed  of  English- 
men ;  where,  when  the  Russian  government  did 
not  keep  them  back  *,  the  members  had  an  op- 
portunity of  reading  the  newspapers  of  their  own 
country.  However  this  society  has  for  some 
time  been  extinct,  as  there  are  not  sufficient 
residents  at  Odessa  to  supply  the  necessary  funds 
for  its  support  Several  Englishmen  are  said  to 
have  lost  their  property,  but  no  one  of  that 
country  is  supposed  to  have  acquired  any  at 
Odessa.  The  Club  also  contains  a  cafe  and  a 
billiard  room. 

Motelsy 

There  are  but  two  hotels  in  the  town ;  viz., 
the  Club,  and  the  "  Hotel  du  Nord."  The  Club 
forms  part  of  the  structure  just  described,  under 
the  same  appellation :  the  Hotel  du  Nord  is  a 

*  There  is  a  society,  called  the  "  English  Club"  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, where  the  English  papers  are  taken  in ;  but  the 
author  of  "  St.  Petersburg"  and  myself  were  informed  by 
some  of  the  members  that  whenever  they  contain  any  poli- 
tical  news  of  importance  they  are  kept  back  by  the  govern- 
ment, and  never  come  to  hand  ! 


I 


li 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


297 


large  building  situated  in  a  different  part  of  the 
town ;  the  accommodations  in  both  are  poor,  and 
the  charges  high.  The  rooms  in  the  Club  are 
large,  those  in  the  Hotel  du  Nord  on  a  smaller 
scale,  but  both  are  nearly  without  furniture, 
and  most  abominably  dirty. 

Race-course, 

A  race-course  has  been  marked  out  by  poles 
on  the  Steppe,  about  three  versts  from  Odessa, 
where  horse-races  are  to  be  contested  after  the 
English  fasliion.  Count  Vorontzof  brought  with 
him  from  St.  Petersburg  three  silver  cups,  which, 
it  is  said.  His  Excellency  proposes  offering  as 
prizes  to  be  run  for. 

Bathing  Houses. 

On  the  sea-shore,  in  front  of  the  New  Boule- 
vard, appear  some  temporary  houses,  chiefly 
covered  with  canvass,  and  employed  as  dressing 
rooms  for  bathers.  These  were  only  erected 
within  the  last  few  years ;  previously  to  which  I 
have  been  informed  that  it  was  usual  among 
the  ladies  of  Odessa,  as  well  as  the  lower  orders, 
to  bathe  in  the  open  sea. 

Odessa  journal. 

The  only  newspaper  or  periodical  publication 
allowed  to  be  printed  in  the  town  is  the  "Journal 
d'Odessa,"  which  was  commenced  during  the 
government  of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu.  It  was 
then  little  more  than  a  register  of  the  commerce 


V 


/ 


298 


RISE,    PROGRESS,  AND 


of  Odessa ;  and  in  this  state  it  continued  until 
the  administration  of  Count  Michel  Vorontzof, 
who,  wishing  to  assimilate  it  in  some  measure  to 
the  nature  of  a  general  newspaper,  at  the  same 
time  that  its  prominent  object  should  be  the  dif- 
fusion of  intelhgence  immediately  concerning, 
or  which  might  be  productive  of  advantage  to 
Odessa  and  New  Russia,  applied  to  the  Emperor 
Alexander  for  permission  to  introduce  political 
notices  in  addition  to  its  usual  contents.  His 
Imperial  Majesty  accordingly  authorised  the  in- 
sertion of  extracts  from  the  **  Gazette  de  Peters- 
burg,'* or  any  other  of  the  existing  Russian  jour- 
nals ;  but  as  there  is  no  censor  for  the  **  Journal 
d'Odessa,"  it  was  added,  that  whatever  else  might 
be  inserted  should  be  on  the  persoJial  responsible 
Utij  of  the  Governor-general.  In  consequence 
of  this  regulation,  the  general  impression  is  not 
struck  off'  until  a  proof-sheet  has  been  read  to 
His  Excellency,  and  has  received  his  approba- 
tion, or  such  corrections,  additions,  and  erasures 
as  he  may  think  proper.  The  "Journal  d'Odessa*' 
is,  therefore,  the  dictum  of  the  Governor-general 
for  the  time  being.  It  consists  of  a  small  sheet 
with  very  wide  margins,  containing  two  columns 
in  each  page,  one  in  French  and  the  other  in 
Russ,  the  former  being  sometimes  a  translation 
of  the  latter,  but  frequently  composed  of  entirely 
different  matter.  Original  essays  upon  various 
subjects  are  occasionally  given,  and  there  is  al- 
ways a  table  of  the  thermometrical  and  barome- 
trical changes  that  have  occurred  since  the  date 


PRESENT    STATE   OF    ODESSA. 


299 


of  the  last  number,  the  former  of  which  are  care- 
fully modelled  according  to  the  understood  wishes 
of  the  *'  powers  that  be."  Notices  by  way  of 
advertisement  are  also  from  time  to  time  inserted, 
but  seldom  occupy  much  room.  A  journal  so 
shackled  as  the  one  now  described  cannot  be 
expected  to  contain  much  novel  or  interesting 
intelligence ;  accordingly  we  find  even  the  Rus- 
sians themselves  complaining  that  it  is  occupied 
"  trop  peu  de  politique,  et  que  les  nouvelles  de 
Parmie  etaient  en  general  trop  succintes."  The 
extent  of  its  real  circulation  I  have  been  unable 
to  ascertain  ;  but  the  editors  stated  officially,  at 
the  end  of  the  year  1828,  that  the  number  of 
subscribers  amounted  to  near  two  thousand. 
The  Odessa  Journal  appears  twice  a  week,  viz. 
on  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays,  and  can  only  be 
procured  by  persons  residing  in  the  town  on 
subscription  at  the  office  in  the  Strada  Chersona, 
or  by  those  in  the  interior  through  the  post-office ; 
the  terms  being,  for  one  year,  25  paper  roubles 
(paid  in  advance)  ;  six  months,  15  roubles  :  ex- 
penses of  postage  within  the  empire,  six  roubles 
for  one  year,  and  three  for  six  months.  Upon 
particular  occasions  a  supplement  is  published, 
which  is  distributed  gratuitously  to  the  sub- 
scribers. 


STATE  OF  LITERATURE  AND  THE  FINE  ARTS. 

There  is  only  one  bookseller's  shop  at  Odessa, 
namely,  that  of  M.  Roubaud  in  the  Rue  Riche- 
lieu, which  contains  a  very  limited  collection  of 


300 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


books  at  exorbitant  prices.  I  believe  there  is  no 
printing  press  in  the  town  but  tliat  belonging  to 
the  local  government.  The  state  of  the  fine  arts 
may  be  learned  on  perusing  the  following  extract 
from  the  Odessa  Gazette,  the  official  organ  :  — 

"  We  feel  much  the  want  of  an  engraver  or  a 
lithographer.  There  is  not  a  single  artist  in  the 
town  who  is  able  to  engrave  or  lithograph  the 
smallest  figure  or  the  most  trifling  ornament.  We 
are  persuaded  that  a  good  lithograi)her,  or  even 
an  engraver  of  moderate  abilities,  would  find  here 
great  advantages.  A  lithographer  might  indeed 
depend  upon  the  assistance  of  the  local  govern- 
ment,  which  has  procured  for  the  printing  estab- 
lishment of  the  town  an  excellent  lithographic 
press,  with  every  thing  necessary  for  its  employ- 
ment." 

Odessa,  it  must  be  recollected,  is  the  third 
town  in  importance  in  the  Russian  empire ! 

AGRICULTURE. 

English  Sheep  imported  into  Odessa. 

The  introduction  of  long- wool  led  English  sheep 
had  for  a  length  of  time  been  desired  in  the  south 
of  Russia,  and  in  the  year  1828  Count  Vorontzof 
accomplished  this  important  object  for  his  coun- 
trymen, by  the  importation  of  three  rams  and 
seventeen  ewes,  chosen  from  the  flock  of  the 
Duke  of  Rutland.  Notwithstanding  the  long 
voyage,    and   a  subsequent  detention  of  some 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


301 


months  at  Constantinople,  the  whole  arrived  at 
Odessa  in  perfect  health,  and  were  sent  to  a 
country  house  belonging  to  His  Excellency, 
about  five  versts  from  the  town.  English  sheep 
are  thus  introduced  into  Russia ;  and  there  is  no 
doubt  that  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  their 
numbers  will  be  rapidly  multiplied  in  the  southern 
provinces  of  the  empire. 


General  Notice  of  the   Vineyards  contained  nsaithin  the 
Liberties  of  the  Torwn  of  Odessa  in  the  Year  1827. 

The  vineyard  of  most  ancient  date  in  the  en- 
virons of  Odessa  was  formed  in  the  year  1798. 
It  is  situated  in  the  Moldavanska,  and  belongs 
to  Major  Sporitis.  The  first  slips  planted  in  it 
were  taken  from  vines  at  Akerman.  It  contains 
5000  plants ;  and  although  at  present  much  neg- 
lected, yet  20  pouds  (7^0  lbs.)  of  grapes  were 
obtained  from  it  in  1827.  It  seems  that  during 
the  first  few  years  after  the  foundation  of  Odessa, 
its  inhabitants  attached  very  little  importance  to 
the  culture  of  the  vine.  Until  1807  there  were 
not  more  than  eight  vineyards  in  the  environs  of 
the  town,  and  in  the  year  1812  only  eighteen. 
From  this  latter  period  the  culture  of  the  vine 
has  become  more  extended  and  improved. 

In  1817  the  number  of  vineyards  had  increased  to    -    54? 
In  1822  -  -  -  -  110 

And  in  1827  -  -  -  -  162 


302 


RISE,   PROGRESS,   AND 


Among  this  number  there  were 

13  Vineyards  containing  less  than 


1000  plants. 


67 

cont4iining  from  1000    to    5000 

26 

5000    -  10,000 

41 

-     10,000    -  30,000 

10 

-     30,000    -  60,000 

4 

-    60,000  -  100,000 

and  1 

-  more  tlian  100,000 

162 

The  most  extensive  vineyard  in  the  environs 
of  Odessa  contains  151,345  plants  :  it  is  the  pro- 
perty of  Major  Potier.     Akerman  also  furnished 
the  first  slips  for  this  plantation,  which  was  com- 
menced in  1820,  and  has  gradually  increased  up 
to  the  present  time.     The  vines,  having  been  so 
recently  planted,  are  as  yet  comparatively  un- 
productive; however,  in  18^7,   320   vedros  of 
wine  were  made  from  this  vineyard,  which  were 
sold  at  four  roubles  the  vedro.     The  number  of 
plants  contained  in  the  162  vineyards  of  Odessa 
amounts  to  1,930,870,  of  which  372,575  were 
only  planted  in  1827.     Hence  it  is  evident  that 
the  crops  from  these  vineyards  cannot  be  of  much 
importance  until  after  the  lapse  of  several  years. 
Among  the  102  vineyards  before  mentioned,  four 
have  as  yet  given  no  crop,  in  consequence  of 
want  of  attention  on  the  part  of  the  proprietors ; 
43  have  also  afforded  no  produce,  because  the 
plants  are  too  young  to  bear  fruit;  four  have 
been  ruined  by  the  locusts ;  four  have  had  a  bad 
crop  ;  and  13  have  been  entirely  reserved  for  the 
use  of  their  owners,  the  produce  of  which  cannot 
therefore  be  considered  as  an  object  of  sale. 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


303 


With  respect  to  the  remaining  94  vineyards, 
the  following  is  an  account  of  their  returns :  — 

Grapes. 

1606  pouds  of  grapes  were  sold  at  the  rate  of 
from  two  and  a  half  to  three  and  four  roubles  the 
poud  ;  besides  various  quantities  were  disposed 
of  by  retail,  to  the  value  of  567I  roubles. 


Wifie, 

21,683  vedros  of  wine  were  made,  of  which 
597*5  vedros  were  red  wine  ;  and, 

Among  the  vineyards  from  which  it  was  ob- 
tained, 

17  produced  under  50  vedros, 

8  from       -        -     50    —     to     100 
28        -        -      .   100    —  500 

9  -         -       .   500    —  1500 
and  1             -             -             -         -    1600. 

The  vineyard  which  has  produced  the  largest 
crop  is  that  of  a  merchant  named  Rostowtsoff, 
situated  about  five  versts  from  the  great  fountain. 
Its  first  slips  were  brought  from  the  Archipelago, 
and  planted  in  1815,  to  the  number  of  5000. 
At  present,  this  vineyard  contains  25,000  plants 
in  full  bearing,  and  3000  young  ones.  The  crop 
of  1827  produced  700  vedros  of  red,  and  900  of 
white  wine.  Of  this  quantity  1400  vedros  have 
been  sold,  at  the  rate  of  3  roubles  60  kopecks 
the  vedro. 

It  has  been  observed  above,  that  the  quantity 


I    I 


I 


^ 


mm< 


304 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


of  wine  obtained  in  1827  amounted  to  21,083 
vedros.  It  is  necessary  to  add,  that  of  this 
quantity  14,853  vedros  were  sold  immediately 
after  tlie  vintage,  some  of  which  produced  four 
roubles  the  vedro,  but  the  greater  part  was  sold 
at  the  rate  of  three  roubles  60  kopecks  for  the 
same  quantity. 

The  proprietor  who  obtained  the  highest  price 
was  M.  Eugenius  Goguel,  the  vineyard  belong- 
ing to  whom  is  situated  in  the  Moldavanska :  it 
was  formed  in  1820,  the  first  slips  being  brought 
from  the  Crimea,  and  from  France.  In  1827,  it 
contained  21,000  plants,  producing  280  vedros 
of  wine,  the  whole  of  which  were  sold  at  six  rou- 
bles the  vedro.  This  price  is  very  high  in  com- 
parison with  what  is  usually  obtained,  and  serves 
to  prove,  how  greatly  the  wine  of  Odessa  is  sus- 
ceptible of  improvement  by  proper  attention. 

One  of  the  oldest  vineyards  in  the  environs  of 
Odessa,  remarkable  for  the  care  with  which  it  is 
kept,  and  the  amount  of  its  produce,  is  situated 
on  the  sea-shore,  the  date  of  its  origin  being  the 
year  1804.  The  first  slips  which  were  planted 
here  were  brought  from  the  Archipelago,  and 
in  1827  there  were  48,000  plants  in  full  bearing. 
Grapes  were  sold  to  the  amount  of  600  roubles, 
and  600  vedros  of  white,  and  580  of  red  wine 
were  obtained ;  the  whole  of  which  brought  three 
roubles  40  kopecks  the  vedro :  so  that  this  vine- 
yard produced  to  the  proprietor,  in  the  last-men- 
tioned year,  the  sum  of  4500  roubles  (about 
187/.). 


] 


PRESENT    STATE    OF   ODESSA. 


305 


MARKETS,    ARTICLES   OF    CONSUMPTION,    ETC. 

There  are  two  markets  at  Odessa,  in  which 
butchers'  meat,  poultry,  fish,  vegetables,  the  pro- 
duce of  the  neighbouring  colonies,  fruit,  &c.  are 
to  be  purchased ;  also  hay  and  corn.     Horned 
cattle  are  not  allowed  to  be  slaughtered  in  the 
town,  but  are  driven  to  the  Steppe,  beyond   its 
precincts,  where,  on  the  brink  of  a  large  hole  dug 
for  the  purpose,  they  are  killed,  the  offal  thrown 
in,  and  the  carcasses  conveyed  to  the  shambles. 
When  the  hole  is  nearly  full,  it  is  covered  over 
with  earth,  and  a  new  one  formed.  The  slaughter- 
man is  a  Jew,  who  has  a  small  house  built  on  the 
spot,  and  resides  there.     Sheep  and  lambs  may 
be  killed  in  the  town.  Meat  is  exceedingly  cheap 
at  Odessa.     It  must  not,  however,  be  imagined 
that  it  bears  any  resemblance  to  that  which  comes 
to  a  London  table :  the  animals  are  not  fattened 
expressly  for  the  butcher,  as  with  us ;  but  those, 
among  the  oxen,  employed  in  the  transport  of 
corn,  or  other  articles  to  Odessa,  which  appear 
upon  their  arrival  in  the  best  condition,  are  pur- 
chased, driven  to  the  Steppe,  and  at  once  slaugh- 
tered.   Beef  may  be  bought  for  a  penny  a  pound, 
and  if  taken  by  the  year  together,  for  perhaps  a 
halfpenny :  a  quarter  of  lamb  can  be  procured 
for  half  a  rouble  (5rf.),  and  poultry  at  propor-* 
tionably  low  prices :  fish  may  be  had  for  almost 
nothing,  while  butter  and  cheese  are  dear,  and 
of  a  bad  quality.     Bread  is  seldom  very  good  at 
Odessa,  and  not  cheap  :  hay  is  often  excessively 
dear. 


I 


I 


')■ 


» 


9 


MT 


■  IIP* 


306 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


The  following  is  an  account  of  the  quantities 
of  provisions  sold  in  the  year  1828,  at  Odessa,  for 
the  consumption  of  the  town  :  — 

Poulhif  and  Eggs, 

7500  turkeys;  12,000  geese  ;  11,000  ducks; 
14,000  pullets,  and  39,500  eggs. 

52,000  pouds. 

Meai, 

There  were  killed  in  the  butcheries  21,952 
horned  cattle ;  37,355  sheep ;  2930  calves,  and 
580  hogs :  in  addition  to  which,  7205  oxen  were 
slaughtered  for  the  manufacture  of  tallow. 

Ite7its. 

House-rent  is  dear :  speaking  generally  a 
house  that  costs  in  building  from  20,000  to  25,000 
roubles  will  let  for  2500  to  3000  roubles  per 
annum,  according  to  the  quarter  in  which  it  may 
be  situated.  This  is  given  as  a  general  rule,  the 
exceptions  to  which  are  more  likely  to  be  in 
favour  of  the  landlord  than  the  tenant.  The 
rent  of  cellars  and  magazines  fluctuates  accord- 
ing to  the  greater  or  less  activity  of  commerce  ; 
thus  there  is  no  fixed  proportion  between  the 
sum  required  to  build  a  cellar  or  a  magazine 
and  that  which  it  will  let  for.  There  are,  how- 
ever, numerous  instances,  where  they  have  in  six 
or  seven  years  produced  far  more  than  the  cost 
of  their  construction. — Among  other  necessaries 
of  life  must  be  mentioned  water,  which  at  Odessa 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


307 


entails  a  serious  expense  upon  a  large  establish- 
ment, not  less  than  eight  or  ten  shillings  a  week 
being  paid  by  many  inhabitants  for  this  article 
alone;  thanks  to  the  negligence  of  the  local 
government. 

Ftiel. 

The  ordinary  fuel  of  the  upper  classes  in 
Odessa  is  wood,  which  is  either  brought  from 
the  Crimea  by  sea,  or  by  land  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Dniester.  The  lower  orders  are 
unable  to  procure  wood,  and  as  a  substitute  for 
it,  employ  reeds,  stubble,  &c.,  and  the  ordure  of 
horses  or  oxen  mixed  with  straw  and  litter,  which 
is  then  cut  into  pieces,  like  turf  with  us,  and  dried 
in  the  sun  during  the  summer  season.  Wood  is 
one  of  the  most  expensive  articles  of  housekeep- 
ing  at  Odessa,  by  reason  of  the  limited  supply, 
and  its  consequent  high  price.  During  summer 
it  may  often  be  purchased  at  a  moderate  rate, 
but  as  the  cold  weather  approaches  it  becomes 
excessively  dear.  In  the  winter  of  1828-9 
(w  hich  was  a  very  severe  one),  a  great  scarcity 
of  wood  was  experienced,  because  the  vessels 
which  are  usually  employed  in  its  conveyance  to 
Odessa  had  been  hired  by  the  government  as 
transports  in  consequence  of  the  war.  Its  value 
became,  from  this  circumstance,  enormously  en- 
hanced; and  a  stack  of  wood,  six  feet  in  length, 
about  three  in  breadth,  and  three  in  height, 
could  not  be  bought  for  less  than  100  roubles,  or 
4/.  5s.     A  much  larger  sum  was  frequently  det 

X  2 


I 


f 


!     1 


r 


308 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


manded,  and  sometimes   it  could  not  be   pro- 
cured  at  any  price.     In  proof  of  which  it  may  be 
stated,  that  rushes  were  bought  and  burned  even 
in  the  house  of  the  Governor-general.     At  St. 
Petersburg,  the  quantity  of  wood  just  referred 
to   may  usually  be  procured  for   six   or   eight 
shillings !     Vast  as  are  the  forests  in  some  parts 
of  the  empire,  the  consumption,  or  rather  the 
waste,  of  wood  is  so  immense,  tliat  many  well- 
informed  persons  in  Russia  are  of  opinion,  that 
in  the  course  of  a  few  years  there  will  be  a  de- 
ficiency  of  trees  fit  for  fuel.     Whole  forests  are 
consigned  to  the  axe,  while  no  one  ever  thinks 
of  planting.     The  Russians  appear  to  forget  that 
it  is  more  easy  to  destroy  trees  than  to  produce 
them.     The  scarcity  and  high  price  of  wood  at 
Odessa  have  induced  several  individuals  to  con- 
sider whether  some  other  kind  of  fuel  might  not 
be  advantageously  substituted  for  ordinary  con-, 
sumption.     English  coal  has  been  occasionally 
employed  for  that  purpose,  having  been  brought 
from  England  as  ballast,  and  sold  sometimes  so 
low  as   sixty  kopecks   the   poud,   of  thirty-six 
pounds  English.     But  as  no  dependence  could 
be  placed  upon  the  regularity  of  this  supply,  in- 
asmuch as  the  Turks  have  always  hitherto  had 
the  power  of  shutting  up  the  Black  Sea  whenever 
they  were  inclined  so  to  do,  and  as  it  was  well 
known  that  mines  of  native  coal  existed  at  no 
great  distance,  the  local  government,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  year  1829,  caused  6000  pouds 
of  coal,  from  the  mines  of  Bakhmoute,  in  the 


'!l 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


309 


s 


government  of  Ekaterinoslaf,  to  be  brought  to 
Odessa ;  none  but  English  coal  having  ever  been 
previously  employed  there.  The  speculation  has 
not,  in  the  present  instance,  answered;  but  if 
followed  up,  it  will  no  doubt  be  an  undertaking 
highly  advantageous  to  the  town.  The  coal  in 
question  is  sold  at  the  mines  for  fourteen  kopecks 
the  poud :  on  its  arrival  at  Taganroc  the  price 
is  increased  to  thirty-two  kopecks ;  and  in  the 
above  instance,  the  cost  attending  its  transport 
to  Odessa  raised  it  to  104  kopecks  the  poud. 
But  coal  will  no  doubt  be  brought  thither  at  a 
much  smaller  expense,  when  its  more  general 
use,  and,  consequently,  the  increased  demand  for 
that  species  of  fuel,  shall  have  induced  persons 
of  capital  to  embark  in  the  trade.  Until  1825 
the  admiralty  of  Nikolaief  was  provided  with 
coals  from  Bakhmoute  and  Lissitcha  by  private 
speculators ;  but  some  misunderstanding  having 
arisen,  they  discontinued  to  supply  it  from  that 
period.  The  Minister  of  Finance  has  now,  upon 
the  representations  of  the  government  at  Odessa, 
made  arrangements  to  facilitate  this  trade,  as  an 
encouragement  to  which,  it  has  been  determined 
that  all  the  public  buildings  in  Odessa  shall,  in 
future,  be  heated  with  coal  from  Bakhmoute,  if 
its  price  should  be  such  as  to  render  that  plan 
eligible.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  the  want 
of  wood,  which  at  present  so  strikingly  character- 
terises  the  vicinity  of  Odessa,  was  equally  expe- 
rienced in  former  days.  Herodotus  acquaints 
us,  that  in  his  time  Scythia  was  very  scantily 

x  3 


T-^i 


I 


310 


RISE,    PROGRESS,    AND 


PRESENT    STATE    OF    ODESSA. 


311 


supplied  with  this  necessary  article  ;  adding,  that 
in  its  stead  the  Scythians  employed  the  bones  of 
animals  as  fuel,  for  the  purpose  of  cooking  their 
meat.  The  same  scarcity  existed  in  the  time  of 
Ovid,  who,  as  is  well  known,  was  exiled  into  this 
neighbourhood,  where  he  ended  his  days. 

Ohjeds  ofLuxw-y. 
It  is  amusing  to  observe,  when  necessaries  are 
of  general  attainment,  how  soon  luxuries  succeed. 
In  1803  people  went  on  foot  at  Odessa ;  and  a 
droshki,  drawn  with  one  horse,  produced  innu- 
merable  salutations  to  the  lucky  proprietor.  At 
the  present  day  carriages  and  four  may  be  seen 
in  every  street,  while  calashes  and  droshkies 
with  two  are  met  almost  without  intermission  ;  a 
certain  number  of  the  latter  plying  constantly  in 
the  streets,  as  at  Moscow  and  St.  Petersburg. 

Carriages  and  fodder  for  horses  are  dear :  in- 
deed, few  of  the  former  are  built  in  the  town, 
being  principally  brought  from  Vienna,  where 
they  may  be  procured  at  low  prices.     Horses 
are  cheap  :  a  colonel  of  my  acquaintance  bought 
a  neat   small  pair  for   a  light   calash  for   200 
roubles  (8/.  10^.).     But,  in  concluding  these  few 
remarks  on  the  most  prominent  objects  of  luxury 
at  Odessa,  I  must  add,  that  a  carriage  of  some 
description  or  other  ought  rather,  in  consequence 
of  the  wretched  state  of  the  roads  and  the  ram- 
bling  nature  of  the  town  to  be  considered  as  an 
absolute  necessary. —At  the  period  before  re- 
ferred  to,  three  houses  used  to  be  instanced  where 


a  person,  without  invitation,  might  call  at  dinner- 
time and  not  inconvenience  the  host :  now,  any 
one  who  is  known  will  have  no  difficulty  in  getting 
a  dinner  at  almost  every  house. 

In  1803  the  dresses  of  both  sexes  were  a  con- 
fused mixture  of  different  costumes  :  all  the  re- 
spectable inhabitants  *  now  are  clothed  like  those 
of  the  great  continental  or  English  towns.  Dan- 
dies may  be  found  even  at  Odessa ;  and  a  blue 
surtout  coat,  lined  with  pink  or  plaid  silk,  appears 
to  be  considered  a  very  becoming  attire.  The 
Stultz  of  Odessa  is  Tessie,  whose  prices  are  not 
proportionably  lower  than  those  of  his  celebrated 
prototype  in  London.  I  used  to  give  for  inferior 
articles  more  than  I  am  in  the  habit  of  paying  in 
London  for  those  of  the  best  quality ;  but  the 
Russians  are  not  charged  at  this  rate.  Merchands 
des  modes  are  also  to  be  found  in  Odessa,  but 
there  cannot  be  much  employment  for  them. 

Coutas. 

On  the  sea-shore,  a  few  versts  from  the  town, 
are  several  small  country  houses  termed  "  Coutas,** 
in  which  their  owners  reside  during  the  summer 
season.  One  of  these,  belonging  to  Baron  Rai- 
naud,  was  inhabited  by  the  Empress  of  Russia 
during  her  late  visit  to  Odessa,  and  several  little 
fetes  were  given  there  as  well  as  at  the  adjoining 
couta,  the  property  of  the  present  Governor- 
general. 

*  Excepting  Greek  and  Turkish  merchants,  who  retain 
their  national  costume. 

X  4 


312 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


313 


CHAP.  V. 

SOME  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  DREADFUL  PLAGUE  WHICH 
PREVAILED  AT  ODESSA  IN  THE  YEARS  1812-13. 

ITS    ORIGIN. SUPPOSED  CASES   OF  PLAGUE.  —  MEETING  OF 

THE     MEDICAL     PRACTITIONERS    CALLED.  DIFFERENCE 

OF  OPINION. DECLARED  BY  ONE  TO  BE  PLAGUE. PRI- 
MARY MEASURES  TAKEN  TO  PREVENT  THE    SPREADING  OF 

THE     CONTAGION. PROGRESS     OF     THE     CONTAGION.— 

THE    TOWN  IN  QUARANTINE. DREADFUL  SPECTACLE.  

PRAISEWORTHY  CONDUCT  OF  THE  DUKE  DE  RICHELIEU. 

TROOPS  AFFECTED  WITH  THE  CONTAGION.  —  CONTINU- 
ANCE OF  THE  PRECAUTIONARY  MEASURES. —  GENERAL 
SYMPTOMS    OBSERVED    IN    THOSE  WHO    LABOURED    UNDER 

THE     PLAGUE. CERTAIN     PECULIARITIES    OBSERVED     IN 

THE  SYMPTOMS.  —  TABLES  OF   THE  MORTALITY  IN  1812 

IN      1813.  MEANS      OF     PREVENTION,    —  REMARKABLE 

INSTANCE    OF    INSUSCEPTIBILITY    OF    THE    PLAGUE. 

The  following  account  of  the  plague,  which  pre- 
vailed at  Odessa,  in  the  years  1812-13,  is  chiefly 
abridged  from  that  given  by  the  Marquis  Cas- 
telnau,  who  was  himself  an  eye-witness  of  wliat 
he  describes ;  and  the  fact  of  that  awful  ma- 
lady having  again  broken  out  in  Odessa  during 
the  last  summer,  and  raged  there  almost  until 
the  present  time,  may  perhaps  be  deemed  a  suf- 
ficient reason  for  its  introduction  in  this  place. 

The  manner  in  which  this  dreadful  scourge 
was  introduced  into  the  tow^n,  in  the  year  1812, 
has  never  yet  been  discovered,  and,  in  all  proba- 


' 


bility,  never  will ;  but  there  are  many  reports 
current  upon  the  subject.  The  most  prevalent 
of  w  hich  is,  that  a  ring,  wrapped  round  with 
cotton  wool,  w^as  smuggled  from  the  quaran- 
tine to  an  actress  in  the  town — that  the  con- 
tagion was  thus  conveyed  to  her,  and  spread  from 
her  to  others ;  but  this  opinion  does  not  appear 
to  be  borne  out  by  facts,  since,  in  all  probability, 
she  was  not  the  first  person  affected.  All,  how- 
ever, tliat  has  been  ascertained  concerning  several 
persons  suspected  to  have  died  of  the  plague, 
about  the  period  of  its  breaking  out  in  the  town, 
amounts  to  this  :  —  Demetrius  Tzerepa,  a  Greek, 
w^ent  out  from  the  quarantine  and  lodged  in  the 
Jiouse  of  his  relation,  Athanasius  Poliso  Bakah. 
A  few  days  afterwards  liis  father,  Athanasius 
Tzerepa,  also  left  the  quarantine,  and  went  to 
live  in  the  same  house  to  which  his  son  had 
previously  gone,  whom  he  now  found  at  the 
point  of  death.  Constantine  Adamief,  a  rela- 
tion of  Poliso,  died  the  9th  of  August ;  his  son 
Spiro  quitted  the  same  house,  and  died  on  the 
15  th. 

At  this  time  it  was  unknow^n  at  Odessa,  that 
for  a  period  of  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  previ- 
ously, many  villages  in  the  government  of  Podolia 
had  been  infected  with  the  plague. 

On  the  12th  of  August,  a  female  dancer  of  the 
theatre  died,  after  an  illness  of  only  thirty-sijc 
hours'  duration:  certain  unusual  appearances 
were  observed  upon  her  body,  but  they  were 
supposed  to  be  the  effects  of  a  common  disease. 


\ 


'? 


i 


314 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


315 


Three  days  afterwards,  another  female  dancer 
experienced  the  same  fate,  and  a  tliird  was  ill. 
These  unusual  and  suspicious  circumstances, 
combined  with  the  fact  of  the  subsequent  death 
of  two  servants  attached  to  the  theatre^  and  an 
actovy  made  a  strong  impression  on  the  mind  of 
the  Duke  de  Richelieu,  who  had  just  returned 
from  the  Crimeii,  and  was  on  the  eve  of  leaving 
Odessa  for  the  army ;  and  he,  in  consequence, 
ordered  investigations  to  be  made  as  to  the  aggre- 
gate mortality  which  had  recently  taken  place 
in  the  town  ;  when  it  was  ascertained  that  a  much 
greater  number  of  persons,  chiefly  of  the  lower 
orders,  had  died  in  that  than  during  the  preced- 
ing months.  Upon  receiving  this  information, 
the  Duke,  at  once,  caused  a  meeting  of  tlie  medi- 
cal men,  resident  in  the  town,  to  be  held  at  his 
own  house,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  their 
opinion  with  respect  to  the  nature  of  the  disease 
which  was  then  evidently  prevailing ;  but  they 
could  by  no  means  agree  upon  the  subject.  One 
said  it  was  "  a  malignant  fever,  and,  conse- 
quently, contagious;"  another  attributed  "the 
petechia?  which  had  been  observed  on  the  bodies 
of  the  dead  to  various  concomitant  circum- 
stances ;  "  a  third  affirmed  that  they  **  had  been 
produced  by  the  injudicious  exhibition  of  spirit- 
uous liquors."  The  physician  of  the  hospital 
alone  pronounced  the  word  ^^ plague  ;^  and  this 
single  word  was  sufficient  to  determine  the  Duke 
in  ordering  the  measures  which  will  be  presently 
detailed  to  be  instantly  adopted.      It  must  be 


I 


here  obseiTed,  that,  with  the  exception  of  the 
occurrences  already  mentioned,  there  were  no 
reasons  for  suspecting  the  presence  of  plague  in 
the  town,  and  this  caused  several  of  the  mer- 
chants to  murmur  loudly  at  the  precautions  which 
were  about  to  be  taken.  There  were  no  sick  on 
board  the  vessels  in  the  harbour,  nor  in  the  qua- 
rantine :  the  Russian  ambassador,  at  the  Ottoman 
Porte,  had  given  no  alarming  advice  respecting 
the  contagion  wliich  was  said  to  reign  at  Con- 
stantinople,  and  there  only  died  at  Odessa  from 
four  to  six  persons  daily.  The  Governor-general, 
liowev  er,  disregarded  the  objections  which  inter- 
ested individuals  opposed  to  his  views,  and  de- 
termined to  resort  to  the  promptest  measures  for 
the  sake  of  ensuring  the  general  safety. 

PRIMARY    MEASURES    TAKEN    TO    PREVENT    THE 
SPREADING    OF    THE    CONTAGION. 

The  same  day  on  which  the  word  plague  had 
been  pronounced,  namely  the  26th  of  August,  the 
churches,  the  Exchange,  the  tribunals,  the  Custom- 
house, and  the  theatre  were  closed.  New  regula- 
tions were  enforced  in  the  markets,  with  the  view 
of  preventing  too  intimate  communication  among 
the  persons  present  at  them.  The  town  was  di- 
vided into  quarters,  each  of  which  had  its  com- 
missaries, whose  duty  was  to  examine  every  house 
and  to  report  its  state,  twice  a  day,  to  the  supe* 
rior  authorities.  At  the  same  time  the  Duke  estab- 
lished quarantines  along  the  Boug,  the  Dniester, 


I 


1^ 


316 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


and  the   frontiers  of  Podolia,    and  the  gover- 
nor of  this  province  was  requested  to  establish 
one  also  before  Balta.     The  period  of  quarantine 
for  individuals  without  baggage  was   fixed   at 
twenty.four  days,  and  twelve  weeks  for  those 
who  had  merchandize,  or  certain  effects  subject 
to    quarantine.      This    measure    became    more 
necessary,  in  consequence   of  its   having  been 
ascertained  that  the  villages  at  some   distance 
from  Odessa  were  infected  as  well  as  the  town. 
The  Institute  was  put  in  quarantine.     The  un- 
fortunate persons  who  were  attacked  witli  the 
contagion  were  at  once  conveyed  to  the  hospi- 
tal,  the  patients  labouring  under  other  diseases 
having  been  removed  to  a  barrack  prepared  for 
their  reception  ;  another  barrack  was  devoted  to 
"  the   suspected,"  a  term  applied  to  all  those 
having  inhabited  a  house  in  which  any  person 
had  laboured  under  the  plague.      Tliese  mea- 
sures were  undoubtedly  judicious,  but  they  were 
not  sufficiently  energetic  to  subdue  the  awful 
visitation,  and  of  this  the  Duke  was  aware  :  he 
saw  plainly  that  the  only  effectual  means  would 
be  to  close  the  town  completely,  but  he  had  not 
at  the  moment  the  means  of  so  doing.     The 
regiment  of  Saratof;  the   only  disposable  force 
previously  in  the  town,  had  left  it  on  the  first  of 
August,  and  there  remained  but  a  battalion  of 
newly-raised  recruits,  who,  so  far  from  affording 
themeans  of  efficiently  controllingothers,  required 
themselves  to  be  kept  in  order.     Recourse  was, 
therefore,    had   to   five    lumdred    Kozaks  wlio 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


317 


were  sent  for  in  great  haste,  and  this  was  the 
whole  force  with  which  thirty-two  thousand  indi- 
viduals were  to  be  restrained. 

PROGRESS  OF  THE  CONTAGION. 

In  spite  of  the  precautions  adopted,  the  amount 
of  deaths  rapidly  augmented.     The  interior  of 
every  house  could  not  be  examined,    and  the 
ignorance  and  prejudices  of  the  people  prevented 
them  from  avoiding  the  contagion  :  thus,  some 
embraced  the  bodies  of  their  relations  who  had 
died  of  the  plague,  it  being  impossible  to  per- 
suade  them  that  the  disease  could  be  conveyed 
by  simple  contact.     Ignorance  triumphed,  and 
even  the  speedy  and  miserable  death  of  these 
imprudent  people  was   not   sufficient   to   deter 
others  from  following  their  example.     The  mor- 
tality  had  now  increased  to  fifteen  or  twenty 
persons  per  day ;  almost  all  the  quarters  of  the 
town  were  infected,  but  the  disease  raged  with 
the  greatest  violence  in  those  occupied  by  the 
lower  orders.     All  affected  with  the  plague  were 
removed  to  the  hospitals,  and  "  the  suspected'* 
separated    from    the    rest   of  the    inhabitants. 
Every  method  was  taken  to  render  the  necessity 
of  communication  as  rare  as  possible ;  yet,  though 
the  contagion  thus  became  checked  in  all  the 
other  quarters  of  the  town,  in  that  inhabited  by 
the  lower  orders  it  had  increased  to  an  alarming 
degree,  and  there  died  not  fewer  than  forty  per- 
sons daily. 

The  physician  and  surgeon  of  the  military  hos- 


S  I 


318 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


319 


pital,  the  physician  of  the  civil  hospital,  and  his 
son,  as  well  as  the  physician  of  the  quarantine, 
Ijad  already  fallen  victims  ;  there  was  no  longer 
time  for  delay ;  the  Duke  therefore  determined  to 
make  trial  of  an  extreme  measure,  namely,  to 
put  the  whole  town  in  quarantine,  and  to  close 
it  entirely  by  means  of  the  Kozaks. 

THE    TOWN    IN    QUARANTINE. 

On  the  22d  of  November,  1812,  the  general 
quarantine  commenced;  without  distinction  of 
rank  or  situation,  no  one  was  permitted  to  leave 
his  abode,  except  tliose  employed  in  the  public 
service  ;  and  the  doors  of  all  the  houses  in  the 
town  were  closed. 

Every  person  in  an  official  situation  of  what- 
ever nature  was  furnished  with  a  ticket.  Provi- 
sions were  conveyed  tlnough  the  streets  twice 
every  day,  escorted  by  an  officer  of  the  police, 
and  the  commissary  of  the  quarter.  The  meats 
were  dipped  in  cold  water  before  being  taken, 
the  bread  fumigated,  and  the  money  received  in 
a  bason  of  vinegar.  All  the  houses  in  the  town 
were  inspected  once  or  twice  a  day  by  the  com- 
missaries of  the  quarter,  and  an  account  of  the 
state  of  each  rendered  daily  to  the  Governor, 
general.  If  a  case  of  plague  occurred  in  any 
house,  the  patient  was  immediately  removed  to 
the  hospital,  and  the  remaining  inmates  were 
conducted  to  a  place  of  sur^'eillance,  arranged  so 
as  to  prevent  communication  taking  place  among 


them.  Every  housekeeper  was  compelled  upon 
his  own  responsibility  to  visit  all  those  under  his 
roof,  and  to  make  a  careful  examination  as  to 
the  state  of  their  health  at  least  twice  a  day ;  and 
in  the  event  of  any  being  seized  with  even  the 
slightest  indisposition,  immediately  to  report  the 
circumstance,  upon  which  the  physicians  visited 
the  patient  and  decided  upon  the  nature  of  the 
case.  The  Jews  had  an  hospital  devoted  exclu- 
sively to  them,  but  subjected  to  the  same  regula- 
tions and  inspected  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
general  hospital. 

Now  the  most  heart-rending  scene  presented 
Itself.     Solemn    stillness    succeeded    the   usual 
bustle  of  the  town,  —  people  were  almost  afraid 
to  breathe,  lest  the  contagion  should  be  floating  in 
the  air,— fires  were  lighted,  and  odoriferous  sub- 
stances burned  before  their  doors  :  clothes  were 
suspended  in  all  the  courts,  to  the  windows,  and 
even  to  the  balconies  ;  two  horsemen,  posted  in 
every  street,  paced  it  slowly  in  opposite  direc- 
tions;   the  functionaries  addressed   each   other 
only  at  a  distance  ;  letters,  when  received,  were 
fumigated  and  delivered  by  means  of  a  stick  slit 
at  one  end,  being  refumigated  before  they  were 
opened  and   read;    all   the  exterior  marks   of 
friendship  were  forbidden,  and  no  one  dared  to 
make  enquiries  after  his  relations  or  friends,  for 
fear  of  hearing  that  they  had  died  of  the  plague. 
This  scene  of  desolation  was  only  varied  to  be 
rendered  more  dreadful :  a  cart  bearing  a  red  flag 
announced  the  approach  of  those  labouring  under 


I 


f 


^»K" 


320 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


the  plague,  who  were  being  removed  to  the  hos- 
pitals ;  a  second,  with  a  hhick  flag,  indicated  its 
conveying  to  their  last  home  those  dead  of  the 
contagion  ;  galley-slaves,  clad  in  dresses  of  oiled 
or  tarred  cloth,  besmeared  with  oil  and  furnished 
with  precautions  of  eveiy  kind,  conducted  these 
dreadful  vehicles,  their  lugubrious  and  disgusting 
costume  adding  the  finishing  stroke  to  the  horror 
of  the  spectacle.     During  this  reign  of  terror, 
the  conduct  of  the  Duke  de  llicheheu  was  above 
all  praise  :    he   was  every  where,  and  exposed 
himself  unceasingly,  returning  only  to  his  house 
to  take  a  slight  repast.     Never  did  chief  devote 
himself  more  completely  to  the  safety  of  those 
confided  to  his  care:  he  visited  the  plague  hos- 
pitals ;    assisted  at  all  the  deliberations  of  the 
commissaries  of  the  different  quarters ;  went  in 
person  to  the  barriers,  to  convince  himself  that 
his  orders  were  strictly  executed ;  exhorted  the 
inhabitants  to  patience,  as  a  means  of  shortening 
the  duration  of  the  visitation  ;  entered  into  the 
feelings  of  the  poor,  supplied  their  wants,   and 
distributed    articles  of  clothing   by  thousands  : 
Odessa  was  but  as  one  large  suffering  family, 
receiving  from  its  common  father  the  assistance 
which  his  heart  led  him  to  supply  with  a  prodigal 
hand.  *  ^ 

The  troops,  however,  w  ho  had  been  so  far  em- 

♦  To  give  courage  to  the  inhabitants  of  Petrikovka,  who 
refused  to  bury  those  dead  of  the  plague,  the  Duke  de 
Richeheu  seized  a  spade,  and  set  them  an  example  which 
no  one  could  refuse  to  follow. 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


321 


ployed  m  enforcing  the  quarantine  regulations 
tlirougliout  the  town,  began  now  in  their  turn  to 
be  affected  with  the  disease.     They  were,  there- 
fore, directly  removed  to  a  camp   pitched  at  a 
sJiort  distance  from  Odessa,  and  the  sick  separ 
ated  from  the  rest ;  nor  did  tliis  precaution  fail 
111  arresting  completely  the  spreading  of  the  con- 
tagion  among  them.     A  part  of  the  town  occu- 
pied by  the  lowest  classes  of  the  people,  a  quarter 
dangerous  to  good"  order  from  its  situation  in  a 
ravine,   and  the  consequent  impossibility  of  its 
being  strictly  inspected,  had  for  some  time  ex- 
cited   the   attention   of  the  Governor-general, 
who  had  even  given  directions  for  its  destruc- 
tion, which,  however,  had  been  subsequently  de- 
ferred until  spring ;  but  the  plague  having  mani- 
fested  Itself  there  in  the  course  of  October,  the 
inhabitants  were  conveyed  to  a  manufactory  on 
a  neighbouring  height,  which  was  prepared  for 
their  reception,  and  the   houses  they  had  left 
were  then  set  on  fire  and  totally  consumed.     A 
few  cases  only  of  plague  supervened  among  these 
people ;  and  thus,  by  this   timely  removal,  the 
greater  part  were  preserved  from  infection. 

There  still  remained  an  evil,  which,  in  the  ex- 
isting state  of  things,  appeared  almost  irremedi- 
able,    namely,   the    impossibility   of  inspecting 
dunng  the  night  the  quarter  which  contained  the 
common  labourers,  the  drivers  of  public  vehicles 
&c..  their  habitations  consisting  of  very  small 
houses,  huddled  together  in   the  back  courts, 
without  any  wall  between  them  j  so  that  to  pre. 


I 

I 
i 


n 


322 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


vent  communication  taking  place  among  those 
who  resided  tliere  would  have  required  a  guard 
to  be  placed  at  each  door :  it  was  in  vain,  there- 
fore,  that  during  the  night  the  streets  liad  senti- 
nels,  who  prevented  any  one  from  passing  along 
or  even  entering  them ;  these  could  not  observe 
what  was  passing  in  the  before-mentioned  by- 
courts,  and  in  consequence  the  number  of  those 
who  fell  victims  to  the  plague  in  this  district 
was  considerable;  for,  as  before  observed,  no 
persuasion  could  overcome  the  ignorance  and 
the  prejudices  of  tlie  lower  orders.  The  phy- 
sicians,  however,  devoted  themselves  unceasingly 
to  the  care  of  the  sick,  —  the  commissaries  set  an 
equally  good  example  in  the  discharge  of  their 
duties,  —  and  the  strictness  with  which  the  judi- 
cious measures  adopted  by  the  Duke  de  Riche- 
lieu  were  enforced,  produced  at  length  the  desired 
effect :  the  contagion  ceased  to  spread ;  soon  it 
diminished  rapidly,  and  finally  and  suddenly 
it  ceased  altogether.  But  one  single  relapse 
occurred,  from  the  imprudence  of  a  woman.  The 
town  was  re-opened  on  the  7th  of  January,  1813, 
after  having  been  sixty-six  days  in  general  quar- 
antine. 

CONTINUANCE    OF   PRECAUTIONARY    MEASURES. 

Although  the  inhabitants  of  Odessa  were  now 
allowed  to  go  out  into  the  town,  yet  they  were 
not  permitted  to  leave  it.  Two  markets  were 
establislied  ;  —  one  at  the  distance  of  a  verst, 
tlie  other  of  two  versts   from   the  town,    and 


PLAGUE  OF  1812-13. 


S23 


double  barriers  erected.     The  commissaries  had 
stations  prepared   for  them,   from  which   they 
were  enabled  to  observe  all  that  passed;   the 
seller  placed  his  goods  witliin  the  barrier  and 
withdrew ;  the  buyer  then  approached  and  took 
the  object  desired,  laying  down  on  a  plate  the 
price  agreed  upon,  which  the  former  then  re- 
turned to  fetch.     All  were  strictly  forbidden  to 
pass  the  barriers,  and  no  example  occurred  of 
any  one  being  detected  in  so  doing.     No  fresh 
instances  of  contagion  had  occurred  in  the  town  ^ 
the  number  of  those  still  labouring  under  the 
plague  was  inconsiderable,  and  they  were  shut 
up  in  the  hospitals.    People,  however,  continued 
to  expose  their  linen  to  the  air,  and  to  fumigate 
their  papers  ;  and  communication  did  not  take 
place  with  that  confidence  with  which  it  had 
previously  to  the  occurrence  of  the  pestilence. 

All  the  houses  in  which  cases  of  plague  had 
occurred  were  purified  at  two  different  times. 
The  mode  adopted  was  as  follows  :  —  The  rags 
and  useless  lumber  found  in  them  were  buined, 
and  the  clothes  and  articles  of  every  description 
sent  to  the  quarantine  for  the  purpose  of  being 
purified  in  the  ordinary  way.    The  houses  tliem- 
selves  were  thoroughly  swept  out  and  cleaned, 
and  then  chamber  by  chamber  carefully  fumi- 
gated with  muriatic  acid  gas,  according  to  the 
plan  of  Guiton  Morveau.     These  fumigations, 
however,  were  not  only  employed  in  the  infected 
houses,  but  also  in  those  which  were  termed 
"  suspected;"  and  in  order  to  ensure  accuracy 

Y  2 


324 


PLAGUE    OF    1812-13. 


in  tlie  performance  of  these  necessary  measures, 
the  Governor-general  usually  assisted  at  them  in 
person. 

The  brandy  shops  were  diminished  in  num- 
ber, and  the  people  forbidden  to  enter  tliem, 
being  directed  to  take  their  glass  at  the  door, 
and  with  certain  precautions. 

Those  who  recovered  from  the  j)lague,  on 
quitting  the  hospitals,  were  bathed,  all  their  old 
linen  destroyed,  and  new  supj)lied ;  they  were 
then  conducted  to  a  place  of  observation,  where 
they  remained  forty-two  days,  and  finally  were 
discharged  in  perfect  health.  The  clothes  of 
the  "suspected**  were  also  destroyed,  to  prevent 
the  possibility  of  any  danger  arising  from  them. 

GENERAL    SYMPTOMS    OBSERVED    IN    THOSE    WHO 
LABOURED    UNDER    THE    PLAGUE. 

1.  Vertigo,  pains  in  the  head,  varying  in  in- 
tensity, 

2.  Nausea,  and  vomiting;  the  matter  ejected 
being  of  various  kinds,  sometimes  blood. 

3.  A  state  of  extreme  debility,  which  pre- 
vented the  patient  from  continuing  in  tlie  erect 
posture,  and  which,  if  he  attempted  to  do  so, 
gave  him  the  appearance  of  drunkenness. 

4.  A  peculiar  expression  of  countenance,  not 
to  be  described  from  the  im])ossibility  of  com- 
parison. In  some  it  was  red  and  glistening  ;  in 
others  pale  and  dejected,  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  attack. 


PLAGUE   OF   1812-13. 


325 


5.  The  tongue  was  observed  to  be  fun'ed,  but 
with  a  red  streak  down  the  middle,  which  be- 
came gradually  darker  in  proportion  as  the  vio- 
lence of  the  disease  augmented,  and  in  its  latter 
stages  entirely  black. 

6.  A  burning  and  continual  thirst. 

7.  Petechias,  buboes,  and  carbuncles,  differing 
in  colour  and  size  from  those  which  occur  in 
other  diseases. 

8.  The  pulse  not  synchronous  in  different 
parts  of  the  body,  being  slower  in  the  parts 
nearest  the  buboes,  carbuncles,  and  petechias. 

9.  Swellings  of  the  parotid  glands  occurred, 
but  rarely,  in  some  individuals. 

10.  Death  supervened  generally  on  the  se- 
cond, third,  fourth,  fifth,  or  sixth  day.  If  the 
patients  survived  the  ninth  or  tenth  day  of  the 
attack,  they  generally  recovered. 

Various  peculiarities  were  observed  during 
the  prevalence  of  the  plague,  and  in  the  mode 
of  its  attack  ;  thus  sometimes  the  patient  ap- 
peared as  if  struck  with  the  disease  in  an  in- 
stant, and  died  after  a  few  hours  ;  while  in  other 
instances  the  person  was  so  slightly  affected  as 
to  suffer  little  in  his  general  health.  Pregnant 
women  almost  invariably  sank  under  it ;  one  or 
two  only,  who  caught  the  disease,  having  reco- 
vered. Some  expired  after  violent  pain  and 
intense  suffering ;  others  experienced  compara- 
tively little ;  and  some  passed  through  the  dis- 
ease so  favourably,  that,  but  for  the  appearance 
of  one  or  more  symptoms,  it  would  have  been 

Y   3 


3^6 


PLAGUE   OF    1812-13. 


questioned  whether  they  had  laboured  under  it. 
Some  Jiad  only  one  or  two  of  the  usual  symp- 
toms ;  others,  on  the  contrary,  are  said  to  have 
exhibited  them  all. 

A  curious  circumstance  which  was  remarked, 
is  that  many  of  tliose  who  were  first  affected 
with  the  plague  did  not  communicate  it  to 
others  who  came  in  contact  witli  them.  Indeed 
the  disease  appeared  to  liave  been  at  first  mild, 
and  afterwards  to  have  increased  in  intensity 
from  transmission  up  to  a  certain  point ;  beyond 
which,  on  the  contrary,  its  farther  propagation 
seemed  to  be  attended  with  a  sudden  diminution 
of  malignity. 

It  was  remarked,  during  the  continuance  of 
the  plague,  that  almost  all  other  diseases  disap- 
peared*, and  never  before  had  so  many  women 
become  pregnant. 

TABLES    OF   THE    MORTALITY,    ETC. 

Deat/ts. 


From  the  29th  of  August,  1812,  to  the  Ist  of 

January,  1813,  there  died  in  the  town 
At  the  lazaret  •  .  « 

At  the  quarantine  of  the  town 
In  the  fauxbourgs  -  . 

Total       . 


758 

1326 

299 

249 

2632 


♦  This  has  been  always  observed  during  the  prevalence 
of  other  epidemics. 


PLAGUE   OF    1812-13. 

Recoveries, 

During  the  before-mentioned   period   there 
recovered  in  the  town  -  -         . 

At  the  lazaret  -  •  . 

At  the  quarantine         -         -         .         .         . 
In  the  fauxbourgs  •  -  • 

Total     - 


327 


93 

344 

119 

60 

616 


Total  number  of  those  who  laboured  under  the 
disease  in  1812         -         -  .  .        3248 


Died  in  1813. 

From  the  1st  of  January  to  the  17th  there  died 

From  the  17th  to  the  24th  -  -        . 

From  the  24th  to  the  31st  there  were  attacked 
with  the  plague  combined  with  other  diseases, 
and  who  died         -         -  .  .  . 

From  the  31st  Jan.  to  the  7th  of  Feb.  died 

From  the  7th  to  the  15th 

From  the  15th  to  the  22d  *  -  *  - 

Total  died  in  1813 

Recovered        -        -        -        . 

Total  infected  in  1813 

Total  infected 
Total  died 

Total  recovered  -  «*        . 


12 
2 


5 
1 

2 
2 


24 


59 


83 


3331 
2656 

675 


The  plague  was  recognised  as  such  on  the 
28th  of  August,  1812,  and  was  completely  sub- 

*  On  the  22d  there  only  remained  28  sick  or  "  suspected," 
who  had  been  removed  to  a  purified  lazaret. 

Y  4 


3^8 


TLAGUE    OF    181^-13. 


dued  by  the  7th  of  January,  1813.  Its  dura- 
tion  was,  therefore,  four  months  and  a  few 
days;  during  which  period,  out  of  a  population 
amounting  to  32,000  individuals,  265G  died, 
giving  a  proportion  of  about  one  in  twelve. 

The  deaths  which  occurred  in  January  and 
February  were  not  owing  to  fresh  cases  of  con- 
tagion, since  they  only  took  place  among  those 
who  were  either  labouring  under  the  plague  at 
the  time,  or  were  among  the  "  suspected."  The 
cessation,  therefore,  of  the  pestilence  may  be 
fairly  dated  from  the  time  when  the  town  was 
declared  out  of  quarantine  ;  at  which  period  the 
cordon  of  troops  around  it  was  withdrawn :  it 
was,  however,  in  consequence  of  certain  circum- 
stances, re-established  on  the  29  th  of  the  same 
month,  but  after  a  few  days  finally  dismissed. 
In  reference  to  the  individuals  who  were  carried 
off  by  the  plague,  it  is  worthy  of  remark,  that, 
with  the  exception  of  Jive  physicians  ^  two  sur^ 
geonSy  and  a  few  respectable  inhabitants  of  the 
town,  all  were  of  the  loxver  order. 

MEANS    OF    PREVENTION. 

The  circumstances  which  took  place  during 
he  plague  just  described  appear  to  show  that 
there  is  but  one  certain  mode  of  escaping  it, 
namely,  to  avoid  touching  or  being  touched  by 
any  person  labouring  under  it,  or  by  any  in- 
fected article.  Changing  the  clothes,  and  fric* 
tions  with  oil,  as  well  as  the  use  of  oiled, 
painted,    or    tarred    dresses,    appear    to    have 


PLAGUE   OF    1812-13. 


329 


1^^ 


k 


proved  the  means  of  preventing  the  contagion 
in  those  who  had  exposed  themselves  to  it. 
Thus,  to  mention  one  instance  in  particular,  the 
architect  of  the  town  carried  his  son,  while 
labouring  under  the  plague,  in  his  arms,  and 
pressed  him  to  his  bosom,  but  shortly  after- 
wards changed  his  clothes ;  the  child  died,  but 
the  father  did  not  receive  the  contagion*  Thus 
also  the  whole  of  those  in  the  "  suspected" 
houses,  who  were  rubbed  with  oil,  and  then 
clothed  in  clean  garments,  were  preserved 
from  it. 

Of  the  galley  slaves,  who  were  besmeared  with 
oil  from  head  to  foot  every  day,  who  wore  gar- 
ments either  painted  or  tarred,  and  made  use  of 
oiled  gloves,  none  became  affected  with  the  plague  ; 
notwithstanding  that  they  removed  all  labouring 
under  the  disease,  and  buried  those  who  died  of 
it,  from  its  commencement  until  its  termination. 
Dr.  Laban  adopted  this  same  costume,  attended 
the  plague  patients  with  the  greatest  assiduity  in 
the  hospitals,  and  never  fell  sick. 

It  appears  probable  that  there  are  certain  per- 
sons who  are  insusceptible  of  the  plague,  while 
others  have  taken  it  more  than  once.  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  most  remarkable  instance  of  the 
former :  — 

"  A  Greek,  or  Moldavian,"  says  the  Marquis 
Castlenau,  "  who  spoke  Russ  exceedingly  well, 
came  to  my  house  one  day,  and  begged  me  to 
present  him  to  the  Duke  de  Richelieu  as  a  per- 
son who  was  willing  to  devote  himself  to  the 


330 


PLAGUE   OP    1812-13. 


It/ 


safety  of  others.     <  The  comforts  of  religion/ 
said  he,  *  cannot  be  administered  to  those  la- 
bouring under  the  plague  without  exposing  the 
priests  to  certain  danger  ;  I  am  not  a  priest,  but 
I  am  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  Greek  reli- 
gion, and  I  can  give  consolation  to  the  sick,  and 
support  and  increase  the  faith   of  the   dying. 
For  the  sum  of  1200  roubles,  I  will  agree  to 
shut  myself  up  in  the  plague  hospital ;  I  will  ex- 
hort the  sick;  and,  independently  of  spiritual 
succour,  I  will  offer  them  all  such  assistance  as 
their  situation  may  require,  and  which  persons 
more  fearful  than  myself  could  not  afford  them.' 
I  confess  I  thought  the  man  was  either  a  mad- 
man or  an  enthusiast — I  knew  not  which;  and, 
under  this  impression,  I  advised  him  to  address 
himself  to  the  physician  of  the  hospital,  whose 
duty  it  would  be  to  apply  to  the  Governor-ge- 
neral on  the  subject.     M.  Capillo  presented  this 
man  to  the  Duke ;  his  services  were  accepted  ; 
he  never  quitted  the  hospital  from  the  period  he 
entered  it  until  afler  the  cessation  of  the  plague, 
during  all  which  time  he  diligently  attended  the 
sick,  and  fairly  gained  his  1200  roubles.*' 


331 


CHAP.  VI. 


RESIDENCE  AT  ODESSA  ;  OR,  FACTS  AND  OPINIONS 
PICKED  UP  DURING  A  FIFTEEN  MONTHS'  SOJOURN 
IN  THAT  TOWN* 


ceremony   op  washing  the  feet.  inauguration  of 

the  statue  of  the  duke  de  richelieu.  —  monument 
to  the  same.  —  caitchailee  and  greek  dance.  — 
locusts. remarkable  instance  of  conjugal  de- 
votion.   animal  magnetism. making  charpie.  

instances  of   despotism.  circassians.  various 

russian   customs.  dresses   of  brides.  curious 

custom  after  an  accouchement.  —  custom  on  christ- 
mas eve. custom  on  the  last  day  of  the  year. 

curious  custom  in  the  south  of  russia  on  new- 
yea  r*s  day.  anecdote    of    a   russian   slave.  

Howard's  monument.  —  balls  and  masquerade  at 
the    governor-general*s.  —  monument     to    prince 

POTYEMKIN.  —  THE  LATE  WAR  IN  TURKEY. 

CEREMONY    OF    "  WASHING    THE    FEET.*' 

Having  been  invited  to  attend  the  ceremony 
of  "  washing  the  feet,'*  which  had  been  an- 
nounced for  performance  this  day  by  Demetrius, 
Archbishop  of  Kitchenef  and  Khotine,  at  an  early 
hour  in  the  forenoon  a  young  friend  and  I  pro- 
ceeded to  the  cathedral  of  Odessa,  which,  upon 
our  arrival,  we  found  to  be  nearly  filled.  The 
master  of  police,  however,  having  received  in* 


Si 


332 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA, 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


383 


structions  to  secure  places  for  us,  we  were  sliown 
uj)  into  the  gallery,  and  from  thence  obtained  an 
excellent  view  of  all  that  passed  below.     The 
ceremony  was  preceded  by  the  ordinary  mass, 
which  is  well  calculated  to  make  an  impression 
upon  the  ignorant.     This  being  concluded,  thir- 
teen chairs  were  arranged   in  the  body  of  the 
cathedral,   six  on  each  side,  and  the  remaining 
one  between  them,  towards  the  west  end :  a  table 
was    subsequently   placed    within    the   rows  of 
chairs,    and  upon   it  a  silver    ewer  and  basin. 
After  liaving  been  embraced  by  the  Archbishop, 
in  the  sanctuary,  twelve  priests  entered,  two  and 
two,    according  to  their  respective  ranks,   and 
seated  themselves  in  the  chairs.     When  all  had 
taken  their  places,  the  Archbishop  came  among 
them ;  and  while  he  was  engaged  in  divesting 
himself  of  his  crosses  and  liis  outward  robe,  thus 
exhibiting  his  under  dress  of  wliite  silk,  embroid- 
ered with  gold,  each  of  the  fat  priests  might  be 
obsened  as  busily  occupied  in  taking  off  the 
stocking  from  his  right  foot.     When  these  pre- 
liminary and  necessary  arrangements  were  com- 
pleted, the  Archbishoj),  pouring  water  from  tlie 
ewer  into  the  basin,  and  with  a  long  jack  towel 
hanging  roiuid  liis  neck,  began  to  wash  the  foot 
of  the  first  priest,  and  having  dried  it  with  his 
towel,  proceeded  to  the  next,  and  so  on,  till  all 
had  undergone  those    operations;  each  priest, 
upon  his  foot  being  washed,  kissing  the  Iiand  of 
the  Archbishop.     When  this  part  of  the  cere* 
mony  was  performed,  his  Eminence  connnenced 


re-robing  himself  with  great  parade.  He  first 
put  on  his  upper  habit,  and  then  suspended  from 
his  neck  the  ornaments,  one  by  one,  kissing  each, 
and  crossing  himself  as  he  resumed  it.  Finally, 
having  crossed  himself  once  more,  and  kissed  his 
archbishop's  mitre,  or  rather  cap,  he  put  that  on 
too.  Singing  and  chanting  took  place,  at  inter- 
vals, during  the  ceremony,  and  on  its  being  com- 
pleted. The  Archbishop  then  retired  to  the 
sanctuary,  while  the  table  and  chairs  were  re- 
moved ;  and,  after  a  short  period,  having  added 
to  his  dress  another  robe  of  purple,  (a  costume 
which  he  always  wears  in  his  carriage,  when 
going  to  or  coming  from  the  churches,)  he 
again  left  the  sanctuary,  and,  preceded  by  the 
priests  who  had  officiated  with  him,  passed  down 
the  middle  of  the  cathedral  in  order  to  reach 
his  carriage  ;  but  this  proved  by  no  means  an 
easy  task,  for  the  people  rushed  forward  from 
all  parts  to  touch  him,  and  to  receive  his  blessing. 
The  master  of  police,  profiting  by  his  official 
situation,  first  advanced  up  to  the  Archbishop  for 
that  purpose;  soon  aftei^wards,  a  little  boy 
jumped  up  suddenly  and  caught  hold  of  his  hand ; 
a  host  of  women  and  others  now  rushed  upon 
him,  so  that  he  was  completely  hustled  by  them. 
One  of  the  gendarmes,  also,  piously  availing 
himself  of  the  opportunity  afforded  by  his  duty 
of  keeping  open  the  path,  seized  his  hand,  and, 
like  all  the  rest,  was  graciously  favoured  with  the 
blessing  of  the  holy  Demetrius. 


334 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


SSS 


INAUGURATION    OF    THE    STATUE    OF    THE    DUKE 

DE    RICHELIEU. 

May  4th,  1828. — This  day  having  been  ap- 
pointed for  the  inaguration  of  the  statue  of  the 
Duke  de  Ilicheheu,  recently  phiced  upon  the 
new  Boulevard,  at  about  half-past  eleven  a.  m.  I 
drove  thither  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  the 
ceremony.     The   weather   liappened  to  be  ex- 
ceedingly fine,  and  the  assemblage  of  spectators 
so  great,  that  it  appeared  as  if  all  the  inhabitants 
of  Odessa  were   present.      The   whole   of  the 
ships  in  the  bay  were  moored  in  front  of  the 
Boulevard,  and  profiisely  decorated  witli  flags,  &c. 
The  statue  itself  was  concealed  by  a  covering  of 
canvass ;  while  at  the  four  corners  of  the  railing, 
by  which  it  was  surrounded,  were  displayed  the 
colours  of  England,  France,  Austria,  and  Russia. 
A  battalion  of  the  regiment  of  Oufo  was  drawn 
up  in  front  of  the  statue,  and  in  its  immediate 
vicinity  were  ranged  the  professors  and  pupils 
of  the  Lyceum  of  Richelieu ;    as   also   Count 
Langeron,  Count  Severin  Pototskii,  the  foreign 
consuls,    &c.      Shortly   afterwards   the   present 
Governor-general,  Count  Vorontzof,  attended  by 
the  Civil  Governor  of  Odessa,  the  clergy,  and 
the  other  authorities,  arrived  from  the  church, 
where  they  had  been  attending  a  mass  for  the 
repose  of  the  deceased's   soul.     The  ceremony 
commenced  by  reading  the  act  by  which  the 
Emperor  Alexander  had  granted  permission  to 
the  inhabitants  of  Odessa  to  raise  a  monument 
to  the   memory   of  their   deceased    Governor- 


i 


general ;  after  this,  the  Reverend  P.  Kounitsky, 
superior  archpriest  of  the  cathedral,  mounted  a 
rostrum  erected  for  the  purpose,  and  delivered 
an  oration  in  Russ,  suitable  to  the  occasion,  in  the 
middle  of  which,  the  covering  before  referred  to 
was  suddenly  withdrawn,  and  the  statue  exposed 
to  view,  when  the  troops  immediately  saluted  it ; 
the  band  struck  up,  and  the  vessels  in  the  bay 
below  fired  their  cannon,  the  priest  soon  after 
finishing  his  oration.  After  him,  M.  Sicard,  one 
of  the  oldest  inhabitants  of  Odessa,  delivered  an 
energetic  discourse  in  the  French  language,  in 
praise  of  the  deceased.  Two  of  the  professors 
of  the  Lyceum  then  eulogized  the  departed 
Duke  :  the  one  in  Russ,  and  the  other  in  Italian. 
These  having  concluded,  the  band  recommenced 
playing,  and  the  troops  defiled  before  the  monu- 
ment.  The  Governor-general  afterwards  gave  a 
dejeune  a  la  fourcliette  at  his  own  house  to  the 
civil  and  military  authorities  of  the  town ;  at 
which,  after  the  healtlis  of  tlie  imperial  family,. 
"  the  memory  of  the  Duke  de  Richelieu  **  was 
given  and  drank  with  enthusiasm.  In  the  even- 
ing  the  pedestal  of  the  statue  was  illuminated. 

MONUMENT    TO    THE    DUKE    DE    RICHELIEU. 

The  widow  and  relations  of  the  late  Duke  de- 
Richelieu  have,  it  is  said,  engaged  a  sculptor  at 
Paris  to  execute  a  monument  consisting  of  a  sar- 
cophagus  placed  upon  a  large  and  elevated  pe- 
destal, in  which  the  remains  of  the  Duke  are  to. 


iil 


336 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


«.  * 


be  deposited,  with  two  figures  above,  represent- 
ing the  Duke  expiring  in  the  arms  of*  Rehgion. 
Its  sides  are  to  be  ornamented  with  four  bas 
rehefs  representing  the  foundation  of  Odessa,  the 
conchision  of  the  treaty  of  Aix  la  Chapelle,  the 
taking  of  Ismail*,  and  the  establishment  of  the 
hospital  of  St.  Andrew,  at  Bourdeaux,  to  which 
institution  the  Duke  assigned  the  annual  sum  of 
50,000  francs,  which  had  been  presented  to  liim 
as  a  mark  of  the  public  gratitude,  in  the  name  of 
the  French  nation.   The  entire  monument  will  be 
seventeen  feet  liigh,andthe  figures  eight  feet  and 
a  half      The   work  will  be  executed  in  white 
marble,  and  is  to  be  erected  in  the  church  of 
the  Sorbonne.     The   model  in  plaster,  of  the 
same  size  as  the  monument,  is  said  to  be  des- 
tined by  the  Duchess  de  Richelieu  for  the  in- 
habitants of  Odessa.     If  this  report  be  true,  a 

*  During  the  storming  of  Ismail,  General  Lascy,  when 
hard  pressed  by  the  enemy,  observing  a  corps  arrive  very 
opportunely  to  his  assistance,  advanced  towards  the  officer 
who  commanded  it,  and  imagining  him  to  be  a  Livonian, 
addressed  him  in  German,  paying  him  the  most  flattering 
compliments  upon  the  occasion  ;  which  the  latter,  with  his 
accustomed  modesty,  acknowledged  in  the  same  language. 
After  the  siege   was  concluded,   the  General   caused  this 
young  officer  to  be  sought  for,  in  the  hope  of  ascertaining 
his  name,  which  he  regretted  exceedingly  he  had  himself 
neglected  to  ask,  as  it  precluded  the  possibility  of  recom- 
mending him  warmly  to  the  favour  of  Prince  Potyemkin, 
which  he  was  desirous  of  doing;  but  he  was  nowhere  to  be 
found.     One  day,  however,  he  was  astonished  at  meeting 
the  supposed  Livonian  at  the  house  of  the  Wince,  and  he 
then  proved  to  be  the  Duke  de  Richelieu. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


337 


temple  of  appropriate  design,  materials,  and 
workmanship,  should  be  forthwith  erected  by  the 
local  government  of  Odessa  for  its  reception  on 
the  site  of  the  present  miserable  statue  of  the 
new  Boulevard,  and  be  called  "  The  Temple  of 
Riclielieu ;"  for,  had  there  been  no  Duke  de 
Richelieu,  there  would,  in  all  human  probability, 
now  liave  been  no  town  of  Odessa. 


CAITCHAILEE  AND  GREEK  DANCE. 

During  the  Easter  week  there  is  a  fair  held 
close  to  tlie  fortress  at  Odessa,  very  much  re- 
sembling those  in  England;  it  is  termed  the 
Caitchailee.*  On  the  ground  where  it  is  held, 
is  a  circle  containing  roundabouts  and  other 
machines  of  similar  description ;  and  in  the  cen- 
tre is  a  raised  platform,  upon  which  the  band  of 
some  regiment  quartered  in  the  town  is  stationed, 
and  plays  frequently  during  the  day.  The  higher 
orders  drive  round  this  circle  in  their  carriages, 
officers  of  police  being  present  to  preserve  order, 
while  the  lower  classes  fill  up  the  intervals  on 
foot  Booths  of  different  kinds,  some  for  drink- 
ing  and  smoking,  or  for  the  sale  of  provisions, 
and  others  serving  for  theatres  and  various  exhi- 
bitions,  like  those  of  our  Bartholomew  fair,  are 
situated  beyond  the  drive.    I  was  present  at  this 

*  Caitchailee  is  a  Russian  word,  the  literal  signification 
of  which,  I  am  informed,  is  "  a  wing.". —  It  is  the  Muscovite 
denomination  for  what  we  term  at  our  English  fairs  "  Round- 
abouts." 


(\ 


338 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


exhibition  in  1828 ;  but  what  amused  me  the 
most,  was  a  party  of  Greeks,  consisting  of  about 
fifteen  or  sixteen,  who  were  dancing,  in  a  ring, 
their  national  dance.  Some  of  them  had  hand- 
kerchiefs  in  each  hand,  which  their  neighbours 
laid  hold  of,  and  thus  united,  they  danced  round, 
performing  several  variations  as  they  went.  One 
appeared  to  be  the  leader,  and  whatever  antic  he 
chose  to  put  in  practice,  all  the  rest  endeavoured 
to  imitate.  In  the  centre  of  the  dancers  stood 
one  of  their  companions  with  a  small  cask  con- 
,  taining  some  kind  of  liquor,  with  which  they 
frequently  refreshed  themselves.  Their  music 
consisted  of  a  violin  (played  upon  like  a  violon- 
cello) and  a  guitar,  the  performers  being  two 
Greeks,  who  sat  upon  the  ground  without  the 
dancing  circle. 

LOCUSTS. 

July  23d.  —  Yesterday  evening,  while  riding 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  I  encountered  a 
flight  of  locusts,  at  least  a  mile  in  length ;  they 
were  very  near  the  earth,  and  obscured  the  light 
so  much  that  I  could  scarcely  see  my  way  for 
them.  This  morning  an  immense  cloud  of  them 
settled  in  Odessa.  I  saw  it  on  my  return  from 
the  country,  it  was  then  high  in  the  air,  above 
the  town,  and  appeared  like  a  long  black  streak 
extending  over  it  from  one  extremity  to  the 
other.  By  the  time  I  reached  the  Governor- 
generaFs  house,  the  locusts  had  settled  in  the 
streets,   covering  various  parts   of  them   some 


RESIDENCE   AT   ODESSA. 


339 


inches  in  depth.  It  is  incredible  the  noise  which 
they  make  on  taking  wing  when  aroused,  as  by 
a  carriage,  for  instance,  passing  near  them  when 
they  have  settled ;  and  in  some  places  they  be- 
come occasionally  drifted  by  the  winds  in  such 
quantities  that  their  putrefying  carcasses  are  after- 
wards productive  of  serious  consequences. 

REMARKABLE  INSTANCE  OF  CONJUGAL  DEVOTION. 

During  my  residence  at  St.  Petersburg,  I  was 
professionally  consulted  in  a  hopeless  case  of  dis- 
ease  affecting  the  child  of  the  unfortunate  Prince 
Volskonsky,  who  is  at  present  an  exile  in  the 
mines  of  Siberia ;  and  my  subsequent  residence 
m   Russia  was  the  cause  of  my  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  the  following  remarkable  instance 
of  conjugal  devotion  in  his  wife.     It  amply  de- 
serves  to  be  recorded,  and  will,  I  am  sure,  excite 
the  sympathy  of  the  reader.     Prince  Volskonsky 
and  Major-general  Orlof  married  two  daughters 
of  General  Raiefskii,  an  old  and  distinguished 
officer  in  the  Russian  service.    In  the  conspiracy 
of  1825,  which  has  been  already  so  often  alluded 
to,  both  the  Prince  and  Orlof  were,  it  is  sup- 
posed, concerned ;  the  latter  having  been  induced 
to  take  a  part  in  the  plot  through  the  persuasion 
and  example  of  Volskonsky.     On  the  discovery 
of  the  conspiracy,  secret  orders  were  instantly 
despatched  from  St.  Petersburg  for  the  appre- 
hension  of  the  Prince,  who  was  seized  at  night, 
in  his  own  house  at  Odessa,  by  two  gendarmes, 

z  2 


340 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE   AT    ODESSA. 


and  Imrried  off  to  the  capital.  Orlof  was  like- 
wise arrested  and  thrown  into  prison ;  but  after 
six  months'  detention  was  discharged,  xvithoKt 
ever  having  been  brought  to  trial ;  he  was,  how- 
ever, deprived  of  his  military  rank  and  honours, 
being  also  ordered  never,  in  future,  to  stir  be- 
yond the  limits  of  his  own  estate  in  the  interior. 
Prince  Volskonsky  was  not  so  fortunate :  in  due 
time  he  was  tried  by  the  commission  appointed 
for  that  pui-pose,  and  condemned  to  deatli.  Upon 
this,  the  old  General,  overwhelmed  with  grief, 
reminded  the  Emperor  of  his  own  former  ser- 
vices, and  besought  his  Majesty,  in  the  most 
affecting  terms,  to  spare  the  life  of  his  devoted 
son-in-law\  His  prayer  was  granted,  and  the 
sentence  of  Prince  Volskonsky  commuted  to 
banishment  in  the  mines  of  Siberia  for  life.* 
After  the  departure  of  the  unfortunate  exile,  his 
wife,  disregarding  the  remonstrances  and  dissua- 
sions of  her  friends,  requested  permission  of  the 
Emperor  to  follow  her  husband,  which  was  per- 
emptorily refused ;  and  she  was  informed  that  if 
she  attempted  to  join  him,  she  would  herself  be 
deprived  both  of  her  title  and  her  estates.  The 
threat  was  utterly  unheeded ;  (what,  indeed,  is 
there  that  a  woman  will  not  sacrifice  for  the  ob- 
ject of  her  affections  ?)  she  accordingly  set  ofi^ 

*  When  a  Russian  nobleman  is  sent  to  Siberia,  he  is  de- 
prived at  once  of  all  rank,  becomes  a  slave,  and  is  habited 
like  one  in  a  sheep-skin  wrapper.  His  name  is  also  changed, 
and  no  one,  perhaps,  but  the  governor  of  the  province  knows 
his  real  appellation  or  his  former  rank. 


341 


I 


and  reached  her  husband,  nobly  determining  to 
be  the  companion  of  his  chains  and  his  misery. 
She  is,  however,  only  allowed  to  see  him  twice  a 
week,  for  three  hours  at  a  time.     As  for  the 
wretched  Prince,  I  learned,  when  at  St.  Peters- 
burg, that  he  was  then  employed  in  carrying 
coals  to  feed  the  fire  of  one  of  the  furnaces  in 
the  mines,  being  also  heavily  ironed.  He  had  just 
petitioned  the  Emperor  to  allow  his  irons  to  be 
removed,  but  compliance  with  his  prayer  had 
been  refused.     Prince  Volskonsky  had  a  hand- 
some  house  at  Odessa,  near  the  fortress;   and 
Orlof  was  building  a  large  mansion  on  the  new 
Boulevard,    when   this   melancholy   occurrence 
took  place.     It  remains,  as  he  left  it,  unfinished, 
and  is  indeed  now  rapidly  falling  to  decay.     I 
never  passed  it  without  thinking  of  its  owner, 
who  is  said   to   be   distinguished  for  scientific 
attiiinments ;   nor  that  of  the  unhappy  Prince, 
without  being  forcibly  reminded  of  his  fate,  and 
unconsciously  paying  him  the  tribute  of  a  sigh. 

ANIMAL    MAGNETISM. 

The  low  state  in  which  the  medical  profession 
is  at  Odessa  will  be  sufficiently  proved  by  the 
fact  that  the  chief  medical  officer  of  the  hospital 
there  is  an  advocate  and  practiser  of  "  animal 
magnetism,"  and  is  said  to  treat  the  majority  of 
his  patients  with  this  specific.  I  had  not  been 
more  than  twenty-four  hours  in  the  town,  before 
General  Sabainaef,  a  distinguished  Russian  oflScer, 

z  S 


»42 


RESIDENCE   AT    ODESSA. 


who  was  evidently  labouring  under  organic 
disease  of  the  liver,  contracted  from  arduous 
services  in  Persia,  and  who  had  been  for  a  long 
time  under  the  magnetic  treatment  of  this  person, 
requested  to  see  me,  and  asked  whether  in  my 
opinion  the  magnetism  would  cure  him,  or  not, 
which  I  gave  in  the  negative ;  whereupon  he 
chose  to  place  himself  under  my  care.  Imme- 
diately on  my  departure,  the  former  attendant 
paid  his  visit,  and  strongly  urged  the  General  to 
allow  his  own  mode  of  treatment  to  be  continued, 
declaring  that  it  would  be  dangerous  if  he  did 
not,  it  being  necessary  to  extract  the  magnetism 
gradually.  But  his  Excellency  was  firm  in  his 
refusal,  observing,  that  as  he  had  never  been 
sensible  of  any  magnetism  entering  his  body,  he 
was  quite  sure  he  should  feel  no  inconvenience 
from  its  remaining  there.  This  is  a  species  of 
charlatanism  and  imposture  which  I  always, 
during  my  residence  abroad,  opposed  from  princi- 
ple ;  yet  I  must  in  candour  own,  that  some  per- 
sons have  assured  me  they  had  been  much 
benefited  by  it;  but  who  were  they?  Weak 
nervous  females,  and  in  one  instance  a  general, 
whose  inordinate  credulity  is  notorious.  Tliese 
are  the  kind  of  persons  on  whom  the  professors 
of  this  quackery  employ  their  boasted  magnetism: 
they  pretend  it  can  only  avail  with  certain  indi- 
viduals, and  this  is  true ;  for  whenever  they  meet 
with  one  whom  they  believe  unlikely  to  be  im- 
posed upon,  they  always  declare  him  not  a  fit 
subject  for  the  experiment :  thus  it  is  they  keep 


RESIDENCE   AT   ODESSA. 


343 


up  the  farce.  I  have  expressed  my  willingness 
to  be  magnetised,  and  to  declare  freely  if  I  felt 
any  effect  from  it,  having  previously  mentioned 
my  unbelief  in  any  such  nonsense ;  my  offers 
were,  however,  declined,  as  I  was  gravely  assured 
it  could  not  benefit  me !  But  it  may  be  asked, 
has  the  employment  of  the  magnetic  process  ever 
effected  a  real  cure  ?  I  believe  it  may,  though  I 
never  knew  such  an  instance,  yet  if  so,  it  has 
been  only  through  the  agency  of  the  mind ;  and 
that  diseases  may  sometimes  be  cured  in  this 
way,  is  a  fact  notorious  to  medical  men,  of  which 
it  would  be  easy  to  produce  numerous  remark- 
able and  well  authenticated  examples.  "  Animal 
magnetism^**  as  it  is  absurdly  called,  has  been 
made  the  means  of  defrauding  and  deluding  the 
sick,  as  well  as  the  pretence  for  committing  the 
most  immoral  practices,  and  can  flourish  only  in 
a  country  where  the  people  are  credulous,  super- 
stitious, and  ignorant. 


MAKING    CHARPIE. 

From  the  commencement  of  the  Turkish  war, 
it  was  the  fashion  for  ladies  to  make  charpie,  to 
be  used  at  the  various  hospitals,  in  dressing  the 
wounded  soldiers.  This  was  the  universal  em- 
ployment :  the  Empress  made  chai-pie,  and  the 
Empress-mother  made  charpie,  and  oj  course  all 
the  ladies  of  the  court  followed  their  example. 
Even  the  poor  gentlemen  were  enlisted  into  the 
service,    and    sometimes  for  the  sake  of  being 

z  4 


344 


RESIDENCE   AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


345 


polite,  joined  in  the  labour.  Square  bits  of  old 
sheets  and  napkins,  scissors,  and  a  basket,  were  to 
be  seen  on  every  table ;  and  before  dinner  and 
after  it,  in  the  morning  and  in  the  evening,  all 
were  busily  employed  in  unravelling  musty  linen. 
I  cannot  say  I  thought  it  the  most  elegant  or 
the  most  becoming  amusement  at  all  times, 
and  in  all  ])laces,  liowever  laudable  in  some 
might  be  the  motive  by  which  they  were  actuated ; 
I  was,  on  the  contrary,  rather  inchned  to  beHeve, 
that  the  really  charitable  would  have  done  much 
more  good  in  subscribing  their  money  towards 
purchasing  soft  English  lint,  than  in  manufac- 
turing such  an  abominably  coarse  and  ill  adapted 
article  for  the  dressing  of  painful  and  irritable 
wounds  as  charpie.  But  it  was  not  the  fashion  to 
do  so,  and  tlierefore  I  thouglit  it  best  to  keep 
my  opinions  to  myself.  However,  I  may  now 
speak  my  mind  freely,  without  running  the  risk, 
either  of  the  knout  or  Siberia.  I  shall  there- 
fore not  hesitate  to  declare,  that  in  spite  of  all 
this  attention,  and  patriotic  devotion  displayed 
by  the  ladies  to  the  wants  of  the  wounded  mili- 
tary, the  latter  were  in  fact  completely  neglected. 
No  sufficient  hospitals  w^ere  prepared  for  their  re- 
ception —  no  provision  made  beforehand  of  the 
indispensable  "  materiel**  required  for  their  treat- 
ment ;  —  as  when  the  army  first  began  to  march, 
no  magazines  had  been  provided  for  its  subsist- 
ence ;  so  when  the  sick  and  tlie  wounded  were 
on  the  eve  of  pouring  into  Odessa,  it  was  for  the 
first  time  thought  proper  to  give  directions  for 


\ 


Jiospitals  and  medical  stores  to  be  prepared  for 
their  use.     On  the  4tli  of  July,  the  inhabitants 
were  desired  to  form  hospitals  at  their  own  ex^ 
pense;  and  on  the  8th  of  the  same  month,  an 
official  notice  appeared  in  the  Journal  d'Odessa, 
calling  upon  them,  in  addition,  to  supply  «  shirts, 
sheets,   pillows,    stockings,    nightcaps,    charpie, 
rollers,*  and  shoes,"  all  of  which  it  was  stated 
were  wanting!     while   the  medical   men    resi- 
dent in  the  town  were  also  expected  to  volunteer 
their  personal  services,   in  the  treatment  of  the 
sick.     These  facts  will  give  some  idea  of  the 
manner  in  which  things  really  go  on  in  Russia, 
and  from  them  must  be  argued  either  the  greatest 
w^uit  of  money  in  the  imperial  treasury,  or  the 
grossest  mismanagement  in  the  government  and 
the  several  departments. 

INSTANCES  OF  DESPOTISM. 

"  The  existing  form  of  government  in  Russia,*' 
as  Bishop  James  observes,  "  is  a  pure  Oriental 
despotism ; "  but  it  must  not  be  supposed  that 
the  Emperor  alone  is  despotic,  all  being  so  who 
have  the  power,  of  which  the  following  are  in- 
stances.    During  the  summer  of  1828,  while  the 

Imperial  court  was  at  Odessa,  Colonel was 

suddenly  sent  away,  in  charge  of  a  gendarme,  to 
Kief,  with  orders  never  to  return  nearer  to  Odessa 
than  the  distance  between  those  towns.  The 
occurrence  excited  a  great  deal  of  talk  at  the 
time,  from  various  circumstances.     The  Colonel 


846 


RESIDENCE   AT   ODESSA. 


was  guilty  of  no  political  offence ;  but  a  report 
existed  that  he  had  formerly  been  criminally  in- 
timate with  a  married  lady  of  high  rank,  resident 
in  Odessa,  and  that  this  connection  had  been 
followed  by  the  birth  of  two  children,  which, 
it  was  also  said,  he  had  threatened  to  claim ; 
whereon  the  friends  of  the  lady  employed  their 
influence  with  the  Emperor  to  procure  his  banish- 
ment from  the  town ;  and,  in  consequence,  this 
was  at  once  effected  in  the  manner  before  men- 
tioned. No  one  can  for  a  moment  defend  the 
Colonel's  conduct,  though  the  lady  being  of  much 
higher  rank  and  older  than  himselfi  it  may  be  ima- 
gined that  he  was  not  the  most  culpable  of  the 
two :  but  what  a  monstrous  system  is  this !  No 
sooner  has  a  man  become  obnoxious,  from  any 
cause,  to  those  in  power,  than  secret  represent- 
ations are  made  in  the  highest  quarter ;  and,  with- 
out trial, — without,  perhaps,  the  accused  knowing 
what  he  is  charged  with,  or  having  the  means  of 
defending  himself^ — he  may  be  suddenly  seized  by 
di  gendarme f  placed  in  a  telega,  and,  at  a  moment's 
notice,  hurried  off  to  Kief,  or  perhaps  to  Siberia ! 
Who  but  must  shudder  at  such  reckless  tyranny  ? 
The*  following  occurrence  is,  in  some  respects, 
of  a  similar  character :  —  One  night,  early  in 
the  last  year  (1829),  an  officer  of  lancers,  while 
waltzing  with  a  young  lady  at  one  of  the  Go- 
vernor-general's balls,  happened  to  fall  with  her, 
or  at  any  rate  the  circumstance  appeared  acci- 
dental. The  next  morning,  or  very  soon  after- 
wards, he  was  hiuried  off,  as  I  was  informed,  in 


RESIDENCE   AT    ODESSA. 


347 


custody  of  a  gendarme,  notwithstanding  that  he 
owed  at  the  «  Hotel  du  Nord "  a  considerable 
sum.  Where  he  was  sent  to,  I  never  had  an 
opportunity  of  learning.  The  third  instance  of 
despotism  I  shall  mention  is  that  of  a  father 
towards  his  son,  and  which  could  have  taken 
place  in  no  other  country.     The  present  Count 

,  now  resident  at  Odessa,  was  imprisoned  in 

a  monastery  for  a  period  of  twenty  years,  by 
order  of  his  own  father ;  the  reason  of  which 
was  as  follows.  The  old  Count,  during  the  life- 
time of  his  wife,  kept  a  mistress,  which  rendered 
the  Countess  exceedingly  unhappy ;  and  the  son, 
having  strongly  advocated  his  mothei-'s  cause, 
and  expressed  his  opinions  pretty  freely,  with 
respect  to  the  misconduct  of  his  other  parent, 
was,  by  the  tatter's  order,  secretly  conveyed  to 
a  monastery,  where  he  remained  imprisoned, 
until  his  fathei-'s  death  restored  him  to  liberty. 
The  horrors  of  so  sudden  and  protracted  a  con- 
finement have  considerably  affected  the  present 
Count's  mind :  he  seldom  goes  into  society ;  and 
his  dread  of  again  experiencing  similar  treatment 
is  such,  that  he  has  caused  subterraneous  passages 
to  be  constructed  in  his  garden,  communicating, 
by  secret  doors,  with  his  house,  into  which,  when 
he  perceives  persons  approaching  the  latter,  he 
often  retires,  until  they  have  taken  their  de- 
parture. 

CIRCASSIANS. 

December  Jtth,  1828.  —  About  noon,  a  party 
of  noble  Circassians,  consisting  of  the  sultan,  or 


348 


BESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


chief,   witli  seventeen   officers  and  sub-officers, 
was  introduced  to  the  Countess  Vorontzof  and 
several  visitors,  who  had  assembled  at  the  house 
of  the  Governor-general  for  the  purpose  of  see- 
ing them.     They  formed  part  of  a  hundred  be- 
longing to  tliat  nation,  who  had  been  selected  as 
the  Emperor  of  Russia's  body  guard  j  but  who 
were  at  this  time  going  to  Turkey,  for  the  purpose 
of  acting  in  ambusli  against  tlie  straggling  Turks, 
who  caused   considerable   loss   to    the   Russian 
army.     Two  of  these  warlike  strangers  were  in 
their  full  national  costume,  with  some  additions 
which  it  has  receiv^ed  since  their  entrance  into 
the  service  of  Russia.     Tiiey  were  lieutenants, 
and  were  equipped  as  follows :  —  The  head  of 
each  was  defended  by  a  small  steel  helmet,  orna- 
mented with  gold,  from  which  descended  a  steel 
ring  mask,  covering  all  but  the  eyes  as  far  as  the 
top  of  the  breast ;  and  beneath  this  was  another 
coat  of  chain  mail,  reaching  as  far  as  the  upper 
part  of  the  thighs ;   over  this  was  worn  a  red 
coat,  edged  with  broad  silver  lace,   the  sleeves 
only  extending  midway  between  the  shoulder 
and  the  elbow,   where  the  chain-armour  arain 
appeared,   and  continued  to  the  extremities  of 
the  fingers :  the  back  of  the  fore-arm,  throughout 
its  whole  length,  was  defended  by  a  strong  piece 
of  iron ;  and  upon  each  breast,  as  also  on  each 
shoulder-blade,    was  a  circular  plate  of  silver, 
about  the  size  of  a  dollar.     Their  trowsers  were 
of  scarlet  cloth,  ornamented  with  silver  lace  along 
the  side  seams,  terminating  in  high  black  chamois 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA, 


349 


leather  boots,  embroidered  with  silver  thread,  the 
feet  being  made  of  red  Morocco  leather.  On  the 
left  side,  slung  by  a  narrow  belt  from  the  waist, 
was  a  bow,  the  lower  half  being  in  a  case  ;  and 
on  the  right  was  suspended  the  quiver,  one  arrow 
being  j)artly  withdrawn  from  the  rest,  ready  for 
use.     Each  had  a  sword,  also  a  pair  of  pistols 
and  a  dagger.     They  wore,   in  addition,  sQver 
wings,  similar  to  those  of  subaltern  officers  in 
the  Russian  army,  which  have  been  attached  to 
their  dress  since  the  Circassians  have  been  in  the 
service  of  the  Emperor,  and  which,  it  must  be 
allowed,  by  no  means  harmonise  with  their  na- 
tional costume.     The  sub-officers  were  variously 
clothed,  some  being  in  blue  and  others  in  green, 
with  fur  caps.     The  sultan  appeared  in  the  un- 
dress uniform  of  blue  cloth,  with  broad  silver 
lace  round  the  collar,  the  bottom  of  the  jacket, 
and  down  the  sides  of  the  trowsers.     A  close 
skull-cap  of  green  velvet,  divided  into  compart- 
ments, like  a  melon,  with  silver  thread,  composed 
his  head-dress ;  and  on  each  breast  he  had  several 
little  pouches,  formed  also  of  green  velvet,  for 
the  reception  of  charges  of  powder  and  shot. 
All  present  were  particularly  struck  with  the 
smallness  of  their  feet,  with  which,   and  their 
"  pretty  red  boots,"  the  ladies  were  enraptured. 
After  the  Circassians  had  examined  the  contents 
of  the  saloons,  and  the  visitors  had  examined  the 
Circassians,  the  latter  having  received  an  invita- 
tion to  dinner  on  the   following  day  at  three 
o'clock,  descended  into  the  court  below,  where, 


iW 


350 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


mounting  their  horses,  they  gave  us  an  exhibition 
of  their  skill  in  equestrian  exercises,  with  tlieir 
mode  of  attack  and  defence ;  after  which  they 
took  their  leave. 

December  5th.  —  At  the  hour  appointed,  the 
Circassian  nobles  came  galloping  into  the  court 
yard,  belter  skelter;  and,  after  some  delay  in 
dismounting  and  giving  their  horses  in  charge  to 
their  attendants,  were  ushered  up  stairs,  being, 
to-day,  mostly  habited  as  the  sultan  was  yester- 
day. They  sat  down  at  table  with  us,  and  man- 
aged exceedingly  well,  excepting  that  they  ap- 
peared a  litte  awkward  at  the  use  of  their  knives 
and  forks.  It  was  amusing  to  observe,  in  the 
countenances  of  several  among  them,  the  intense 
curiosity  with  which  they  surveyed  the  various 
novelties  by  which  they  were  surrounded.  This, 
however,  did  not  prevent  them  from  making  a 
hearty  dinner ;  and,  on  retiring  afterwards,  they 
appeared  highly  gratified  with  their  visit. 


VARIOUS  RUSSIAN  CUSTOMS. 

I}resses  of  Brides, 

During  the  court  mourning  for  the  late  Em- 
press-mother, I  observed,  at  one  of  tlie  Governor- 
general's  soirees,  Madame  Fonton,  who  had  only 
been  married  a  few  days,  arrayed  in  white,  the 
other  ladies,  without  exception,  being  in  black : 
upon  enquiring  the  reason  of  this,  to  me,  singular 
distinction,  I  learned  that  it  is  a  custom  in  Russia 
for  brides  never  to  wear  any  but  white  or  coloured 


RESIDENCE   AT   ODESSA. 


351 


dresses  for  one  year  after  their  marriage,  whatever 
mournings  may  happen  within  that  period. 


Curious  Ctislom  qfier  an  Accoiichement. 

While  sitting  one  day  with  the  Prince  and 
Princess  Galitzin,  at  their  house  in  Odessa,  the 
former  showed  me  a  Turkish  ducat,  which  his 
lady  had  just  received  as  a  present  from  some 
female  acquaintance,  in  observance  of  a  custom 
prevalent  in  Russsia.  The  Princess  had  been 
recently  confined;  and  it  appears  it  is  usual  ' 
among  the  Russians  for  the  friends  of  a  lady 
thus  circumstanced  each  to  present  her,  when 
sufficiently  recovered  to  receive  visits,  with  a 
ducat  of  some  description  or  other.  The  Princess 
Galitzin  had  received  six  that  morning. 

Custom  on  Christmas  Eve. 

Tlie  custom  of  giving  toys  and  other  presents 
to  children  is  much  more  common  among  the 
Russians  than  with  us.  Indeed  there  are  certain 
days  upon  which  in  Russia  almost  every  person 
is  expected  to  make  such  offerings  to  the  children 
of  his  friends  and  relations,  for  instance,  on  their 
birth-days  and  fete-days,  and  on  Christmas  eve ; 
while  the  various  donations  are  exhibited  with 
great  ceremony  and  parade.  Perhaps,  however, 
I  cannot  better  exemplify  what  usually  takes 
place  in  high  life  upon  this  latter  occasion, 
namely,  Cluistmas  eve,  than  by  describing  what 


352 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


I  witnessed  myself  at  Odessa,  on  tlie  evening  in 
question,   at  the  house  of  Count  Vorontzof.     As 
soon  as  it  was  dark,  a  young  sapling,  about  six 
feet  higli,  i)lanted  in  a  box  of  earth,  and  covered 
with  artificial  roses  and  other  flowers,  was  placed 
in  one  of  the  large  saloons.     Round  this,  on  four 
tables,  (tliere  being  always  as  many  of  these  as 
there  are  children,)  were  arranged  the  presents 
that  had  been  sent  by  the  friends  and  relations, 
appended  to  each  of  which  was  a  paper,  indicat- 
ing for  whom  it  was  intended,  with  the  name  of 
its  donor.  Some  of  the  gifts,  also  similarly  labelled, 
were  suspended  to  the  artificial  tree  before  men- 
tioned.    A  great  number  of  lighted  wax  tapers 
were  then  placed  on  the  tables,  and  round  the 
room,  the  doors  of  which,  when  thus  illuminated, 
being  thrown  open,  the  \isitors  and  the  children 
of  our  host  were  admitted  to  view  and  admire  the 
various  presents,  and  expatiate  upon  their  respec- 
tive  beauties.      Refreshments  were   afterwards 
handed  round,  and  the  evening  passed  in  a  social 
and  agreeable  manner.    On  the  fete-day  or  birth- 
day of  a  child  all  the  presents  are  placed  upon 
a  table,  and  lefl  for  the  inspection  of  those  who 
may  call  for  some  days.     The  love  of  show  is 
one  of  the  prominent  characteristics  of  a  Russian ; 
and  wide,  indeed,  is  the  difference  between  the 
tenour  of  his  actions,   according  to  the  various 
degrees  of  publicity  by  which  they  are  accom- 
panied :    I  am  well    acquainted  with   a  noble- 
man of  that  country,  who  upon  certain  occasions, 
where  he  believed  his  conduct  would  be  univer- 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


353 


sally  known,  has  displayed  considerable  liberality; 
wlrile  upon  others,  where  he  hoped  for  conceal- 
ment, he  has  exhibited  the  most  despicable 
meanness,  injustice,  and  ingratitude. 

Ctistom  o7i  the  Last  Day  of  the  Year. 

The  custom  of  seeing  the  old  year  out  and  the 
new  one  in,  as  it  is  often  termed,  prevails  very 
generally  in  Russia,  although  in  this  country  it 
has  comparatively  fallen  into  disuse.  The  Gover- 
nor-general gave  a  dinner  on  the  31st  of  De- 
cember ( o.  s. ),  followed  by  a  supper,  when 
immediately  after  the  clock  had  struck  twelve,  a 
blast  of  trumpets  announced  the  departure  of 
the  old  year,  and  all  the  company  present  pledged 
each  other  in  bumpers  of  Champagne,  to  the 
happiness  of  the  new  one. 


Curious  Custom^  in  the  SoiUh  of  Russia,  on  New-  Yeai^s 

Day, 

Jan.  13th,  (Jan.  1st,  o.  s.)  1829.  — While  I 
was  sitting  at  breakfast  this  morning,  a  servant 
of  the  Count  entered,  and,  after  uttering  a  few 
words  in  the  Russian  language,  threw  a  handful 
of  millet  and  oats  into  my  face.  I  was,  of 
course,  surprised  at  tliis  conduct ;  but  guessing 
it  to  proceed  from  some  custom  prevailing  here,  I 
took  it  in  good  part.  He  then  said  that  the 
Countess  Vorontzof  wished  to  see  me  immedi- 
ately. I  left  my  rooms  accordingly  and  went 
into  the  Count's  cabinet,  where  I  found  himself, 

A  A 


354 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA, 


355 


tlie  Countess,  their  cliildren,  and  one  or  two  of 
the  ernployesy  at  breakfast.  His  Excellency,  rising 
upon  my  entrance,  shook  hands,  and  wislied  me 
a  liappy  new  year ;  after  w^hich  he  threw  a 
handful  of  millet  and  oats  at  me.  I  had  hardly 
got  rid  of  these,  before  the  children  and  the 
other  individuals  present  renewed  the  attack  in  a 
similar  mannner.  Count  Vorontzof  informed 
me,  in  the  course  of  conversation  subsequently, 
that  this  is  a  custom  prevailing  only  in  the 
Ukraine  and  the  south  of  Russia,  which  are  corn 
countries.  Througliout  the  whole  day  millet 
and  oats  were  ke})t  in  constant  readiness,  and 
every  one  who  entered  the  house,  of  whatever 
rank  or  sex,  was  assailed  as  I  had  been. 

ANECDOTE    OF    A    RUSSIAN    SLAVE. 

The  following  anecdote  will  strikingly  exem- 
plify the  general  character  of  the  Russian  slaves. 
Baron  Franck,  Colonel  in  the  Guards,  had  given 
particular  directions  to  his  servant  always  to  fold 
up  the  new  spaper,  which  he  was  accustomed  to  re- 
ceive regidarly,  with  the  title  outwards ;  but  the 
latter,  regardless  of  his  master's  injunctions,  con- 
tinued to  employ  his  own  method.  At  last  the 
Baron  became  angry,  and  calling  for  him,  "  Why,'* 
said  he,  "  do  you  always  fold  up  the  paper  in 
this  way ;  have  I  not  frequently  told  you  to  do 
it  otherwise  ?" —  "  Please,  sir,*'  answered  the  ser- 
vant, w^ith  the  greatest  liumility,  **  you  never 
beat  me  for  it ! "     It  is  to  be  observed  that  the 


Baron  is  not  a  Russian,  but  a  native  of  Germany, 
which  may  account  for  his  considering  the  excuse 
offered  by  his  sei-vant  as  sufficiently  curious  to 
deserve  relating.  Perhaps,  also,  it  may  show 
why  a  remedy  for  short  memories,  apparently  so 
efficacious  in  the  estimation  of  Russian  slaves, 
had  not  been  previously  administered. 

Howard's  monume!  t. 

Two  monuments  have  been  raised  at  Cherson, 
in  honour  of  our  ever-to-be-respected  philan- 
thropist John  Howard,  which  are  described,  by 
Clarke  and  Lyall ;  but,  as  far  as  I  know,  it  lias 
not  been  yet  mentioned  that  neither  of  them  are 
placed  over  the  remains  of  that  excellent  man. 
It  lias  lately  been  proposed  to  erect  a  third,  by 
subscription,  above  the  spot  where  he  was  buried, 
which  is  said  to  be  accurately  known.  I  felt 
great  pleasure,  as  an  Englishman,  upon  the  plan 
being  mentioned  to  me  at  Odessa,  in  contribut- 
ing my  mite  towards  the  execution  of  so  laudable 
a  design,  and  trust  that  some  future  traveller 
will  be  able  to  inform  the  world  that  the  proposed 
monument  has  been  completed. 

balls  and  masquerade  at  the  governor- 

general's. 

Jan.  19th,  1829.— At  about  nine  o'clock  I 
descended  into  the  grand  saloon,  where  I  found 
the  company  nearly  all  assembled,  and  the  band 
had  commenced  playing.     Almost  immediately 

A  A   2 


^/ 


356 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


357 


after  two  masks  entered,  the  one  habited  as  a 
Russian  coachman,  the  other  as  a  Swiss  peasant ; 
the  former  I  recognised  at  once,  by  the  voice,  as 
a  secretary  of  the  Count,  and  the  other  I  after- 
wards ascertained  to  be  one  of  his  aides-de- 
camp. Next  came  bustUng  into  the  saloon  a 
tailor,  seated  upon  his  shopboard,  with  all  his  im- 
plements about  him.  This  character  was  well 
sustained  by  a  young  English  gentleman  (an 
employd  in  the  Russian  service),  and  excited  a 
good  deal  of  amusement.  The  tailor  was  suc- 
ceeded by  an  aged  French  marquis,  an  exquisite 
of  tlie  old  school,  ably  supported  by  Captain 
Blaremberg  of  the  Engineers.  The  company 
now,  as  well  as  the  masks,  commenced  dancing 
quadrilles ;  when,  after  a  short  time,  they  were 
interrupted  by  a  huge  sugar-loaf  gliding  in 
among  them.  This  strange  visiter  excited  in- 
finite merriment ;  till  the  Countess  Vorontzof, 
discovering  a  small  window  w  Inch  had  enabled 
its  inmate  to  pilot  himself  about  the  room,  tied 
her  handkerchief  over  it,  when  immediately 
out  popped  a  little  demure  old  man,  who  joined  in 
the  dance,  which  his  arrival  had  interrupted,  with 
an  activity  as  comj)letely  contrasting  his  anti- 
quated appearance  as  his  diminutive  size  did  that 
of  the  gigantic  lump  of  grocery  from  which  he 
issued.  Soon  afterwards  we  were  attracted  to  the 
door  by  cries  of  PadijeCy  padj/ee  (Take  care),  and 
Vodee^  vodee  (Water),  from  a  couple  of  mougies 
or  peasants  (one  of  the  Count's  secretaries 
and  an  officer  of  the  Guards),  with  a  barrel  on  a 


truck,  who  came  in  and  passed  from  one  end  of 
the  saloon  to  the  other  ;  the  end  of  the  barrel  at 
last  tumbled  down,  and  a  harlequin,  with  dif- 
ficulty, got  out,  and  made  some  awkward  attempts 
at  agility.  There  was  one  other  character  well 
adapted  to  exercise  the  risible  faculties,  namely, 
that  of  a  man  with  a  mask  on  the  back  of  his 
head  as  well  as  one  over  his  face,  a  waistcoat  frill, 
&c.  being  also  placed  both  behind  and  before. 
The  alternate  obeisances  which  this  bifronted 
being  made  in  opposite  directions  afforded  admir- 
able specimens  of  the  ridiculous,  and  were  highly 
applauded.  In  the  course  of  the  evening  the 
coachman  before  mentioned,  and  Mademoiselle 
Kirico,  a  Greek  lady,  danced  the  Russian  pea- 
sants' national  dance  with  great  spirit ;  and  the 
ball  concluded  with  a  curious  kind  of  Greek 
dance,  which  seemed  to  the  spectators  as  if  it 
would  have  no  end. 

Feb.  (ith.  —  Dinner  being  served  up  about  six 
o'clock,  a  large  party  sat  down  to  it ;  and  after- 
wards, when  the  coffee  had  been  handed  round, 
the  visitors  retired  to  a  small  theatre  which  had 
been  fitted  up  in  one  of  the  rooms,  where  a 
French  comedy  was  acted.  The  various  parts 
were  sustained  by  the  Countess  Vorontzof  (in  a 
splendid  hussar's  uniform),  Mesdames  Narisch- 
kine  and  Boulgofskoi,  Baron  Rainaud,  Governor 
Narischkine,  M.  Scherbinin,  Captain  Blaremberg, 
General  Pouchkine,  &c.,  the  prompter  being 
M.  Spada  the  Censor.  When  the  piece  was 
concluded,  the  company  returned  to  the  grand 

A  A  3 


358 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


359 


\) 


saloon,  where  dancing  commenced,  and  after 
supper,  which  was  served  up  at  twelve  o'clock, 
it  was  recommenced,  and  continued  with  un- 
abated spirit  tor  several  hours. 

MONUMENT    TO    PRINCE    POTYEMKIN. 

As  St.  Petersburg  is  a  city,  so  is  Russia  a  coun- 
try,  of  extremes;  and  tlie  truth  of  this  position  may 
too  frequently  be  found  in  the  varied  fate  of  the 
living,  and  not  rarely  in  the  varied  estimation  of 
the  dead :  as  an  instance  of  the  latter,  it  may  be 
sufficient  to  mention  Prince  Potyemkin.  After 
being  the  idol  of  one  sovereign,  receiving  the 
most  unbounded  favours,  and  dying  in  the  pleni- 
tude of  power,  his  remains  were  subjected  to  all 
possible  ignominy  by  the  next ;  during  a  third 
reign,  his  exploits  remained  unrecorded  and  his 
name  forgotten;  while,  at  the  commencement 
of  a  fourth,  a  magnificent  monument  is  to  be 
erected  to  his  memory. 

Immediately  after  the  death  of  the  Prince, 
his  body  was  conveyed  to  the  town  of  Cherson, 
where  it  was  aflerwards  deposited  in  a  small 
church  within  the  fortress.  As  soon,  however, 
as  the  Emperor  Paul  mounted  the  throne,  he, 
with  his  characteristic  xcisdom  and  proprieti/y 
sent  an  order  to  the  authorities  of  that  place  to 
disinter  and  cast  it  into  the  nearest  hole  that 
could  be  foiuid  :  but  Dr.  Lyall  assures  us  that 
the  Imperial  mandate  "was  never  obeyed;  that 
the  pretence  only  was  made ;  and  that  it  still 
reposes  within  the  walls  of  the  church,  though 


nobody  can  or  will  tell  in  what  place.  The 
coffin  was  removed,  and  all  inscriptions  in  me- 
morial of  Potyemkin  were  obliterated;  but  a 
new  grave  was  dug,  and  covered  over  with  flags 
which  had  been  purposely  taken  up ;  and  there 
the  mortal  remains  of  this  once  great  Prince  were 
consiffned  to  eternal  oblivion."  Timd,  however, 
the  great  worker  of  events,  had  long  caused 
party  spirit  to  evaporate,  when  Count  Vorontzof, 
becoming  allied  by  marriage  to  the  relations  of 
Prince  Potyemkin,  possessed  sufficient  influence 
with  the  late  Autocrat  of  Russia  to  procure  His 
Majesty's  sanction  to  the  plan  which  had  been 
formed  by  several  members  of  the  family,  of  rais- 
ing a  monument  at  Cherson,  in  honour  of  the  de- 
parted Prince.  A  subscription  was  accordingly 
entered  into  among  them  to  procure  the  neces- 
sary funds  for  carrying  the  undertaking  into 
effect;  and  the  present  Emperor  having  also 
granted  his  assent  to  the  proposed  measure,  the 
construction  of  the  monument  will  be  forthwith 
commenced.  It  is  to  consist  of  a  bronze  statue, 
after  the  design  of  M-  Martos,  representing  the 
Prince,  sword  in  hand,  placed  upon  a  pedes- 
tal of  white  marble,  the  height  of  the  figure 
beino;  the  same  as  that  of  the  celebrated  Farnese 
Hercules. 

As  the  following  particulars  relative  to  the 
last  moments  and  death  of  Prince  Potyemkin, 
originally  supplied  by  his  nephew  Count  Samoil- 
lof,  who  was  himself  present  at  the  time,  have 
not,    I  believe,   appeared   in   an   English  garb, 

A  A    4 


860 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA* 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


361 


and  may  possibly  prove  interesting  to  the  reader, 
they  are  here  subjoined :  — 

In  July,  1791,  Prince  Potyemkin,  being  taken 
ill  at  Jassy,  determined  to  return  immediately  to 
Nicolaief,  with  the  hope  of  deriving  benefit  from 
change  of  air;  but  scarcely  had  he  travelled  forty 
versts  from  the  former  place,  when,  becoming 
suddenly  worse,  one  of  liis  nieces  by  whom  he 
was  accompanied  persuaded  him  to  leave  his 
carriage  and  recline  upon  a  caq)et,  which  she 
had  caused  to  be  spread  upon  the  grass  under 
cover  of  a  tent;  and  there  he  received  a  courier 
from  the  Empress  Catharine,  who  was  the 
bearer  of  despatches  from  Her  Majesty,  an- 
nouncing the  pleasing  intelligence  that  she  had 
honoured  him  with  fresh  proofs  of  her  fa- 
vour. His  strength  failed  him,  but  his  mental 
powers  retained  their  accustomed  energy;  and 
he  proved  in  these  his  last  moments  that  his 
attachment  to  his  sovereign  was  real  and  unaf- 
fected. Wrapped  up  with  thoughts  of  her  alone, 
he  seized  her  portrait,  which  hung  suspended 
from  his  neck,  and,  regarding  it  fervently  for 
some  time,  pronounced  these  words  :  —  "  Great 
Catharine,  I  die  while  offering  you  my  last 
homage."  —  He  moved  but  once  afterwards, 
then  fell  into  the  arms  of  his  niece,  and  expired* 

THE    LATE    WAR   IN    TURKEY. 

It  appears  to  be  a  generally  received  opinion 
in   England,    that    the  late   Turkish   war   was 


I 


popular  among  the  Russians;  but  from  all  I 
heard  and  saw,  while  resident  within  the  auto- 
cratic dominions,  I  am  inclined  to  doubt  the 
correctness  of  this  belief.  That  the  war  was 
agreeable  to  certain  individuals,  who  reaped,  or 
hoped  to  reap,  important  advantages  from  it,  is 
perhaps  true ;  but  I  by  no  means  think  that, 
even  previously  to  its  actual  commencement,  it 
was  popular  with  the  majority  of  the  influential 
nobility  of  the  country,  or  subsequently  with  the 
higher  classes  of  military  officers ;  more  par- 
ticularly, as  I  happen  to  knoxv  that  much  dis- 
satisfaction was  produced  in  many  quarters  from 
circumstances  which  took  place  during  the  early 
part  of  its  progress.  Previously  to  our  leaving 
St.  Petersburg,  it  was  well  known  in  the  court 
circle  that  the  Emperor  would  be  present  at  the 
future  seat  of  operations,  whenever  the  war  might 
break  out;  and  I  was  confidently  assured  that 
Count  Vorontzof  was  to  have  the  command  in 
chief  of  the  army,  and  that  any  difficulty  which 
might  arise  from  his  being  junior  to  other  generals 
would  be  easily  obviated  by  the  omnipotence  of 
the  Emperor ;  scarcely,  however,  had  we  reached 
Odessa  before  it  became  evident  that  these  an- 
ticipations were  not  to  be  realised,  and  that  others 
had  more  influence  with  the  source  of  power. 
That  dissatisfaction  prevailed  among  the  officers 
of  all  ranks,  after  their  Imperial  master  joined 
the  army,  will  scarcely  be  doubted,  perhaps, 
when  I  mention  that  one  of  them,  who  had  just 
returned  from   Varna,    informed  me   that   the 


/ 


362 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


363 


Emperor's  coiuliict  on  many  occasions  was  most 
luisty  and  impetuous,  and  that  he  was  continually 
interfering  with  the  arrangements  of  the  Com- 
mander-in-chief: while,  he  added,  "  it  is  well 
known  that  His  Majesty  never  had  any  oppor- 
tunities himself  of  gaining  practical  experience 
in  war,  and  therefore  what  could  have  induced 
him  to  imagine  his  own  opinion  more  correct 
than  that  of  an  old  general,  who  had  previously 
been  twice  before  the  walls  of  that  very  fortress, 
is  most  unaccountable."  Another  officer  observed, 
"  the  Emperor  is  so  accustomed  to  issue  an  ukase 
in  St.  Petersburg,  and  to  have  it  obeyed  as  a 
matter  of  course,  that  he  expects  impossibilities 
to  be  performed  in  war,  if  he  only  order  them 
to  be  attempted."  Thus  a  great  loss  was  uselessly 
sustained  at  Varna  ui)on  one  occasion,  in  conse- 
quence of  this  determination  to  command,  when 
he  even  insisted  upon  the  General-in-chief  repri- 
manding the  troops,  although  that  officer  was  of 
opinion  that  they  had  done  all  that  men  could 
perform.  It  was  also  mentioned  that,  at  Varna, 
Count  Vorontzof  had  ordered  all  officers  when 
on  duty  only  to  wear  foraging  caps,  instead  of 
cocked  hats  and  feathers,  the  latter  having 
rendered  them  remarkable  objects  for  the  Turkish 
riflemen,  and  thus  occasioned  considerable  loss 
of  life  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  Emperor  arrived,  he 
commanded  the  officers  to  appear  in  full  uniform, 
and  the  cocked  hats  and  feathers  to  be  resumed ! 
From  these  and  other  facts  we  may  fairly  con- 
clude that  the  Emperor  was  not  more   j)opular 


with  the  army  after  his  first  campaign  than  be- 
fore ;  and  of  this  he  most  probably  became  him- 
self aware,  for  on  the  return  from  Varna,  I  heard 
that  it  was  confidently  expected  His  Majesty 
would  not  again  take  the  field,  and  the  result 
has  fully  proved  this  opinion  to  have  been  cor- 
rect. It  is  not  a  little  remarkable,  that  the  first 
campaign,  conducted  by  Russian  generals,  under 
the  Emperor  in  person,  was  dilatory,  and  in  many 
points  a  complete  failure ;  while  the  second,  con- 
fided to  the  unaided  talents  of  a  German^  proved 
as  rapid  as  it  was  eminently  successful,  and 
untarnished,  or  at  any  rate  not  so  obviously 
tarnished,  by  the  employment  of  gold  in  aid  of 
the  sword.  I  shall  never  forget  the  bitter  irony 
with  which  an  officer  of  rank,  just  returned  from 
the  army,  spoke  to  me  respecting  the  taking  of 
Varna.  "The Emperor,"  said  he,  "  was  surround- 
ed by  a  set  of  military  sycophants,  whose  inordinate 
flattery  was  so  palpable  as  to  become  ridiculous : 
thus  it  was  always  said  by  those  courtiers,  *  Your 
Majesty  has  taken  Varna,'  *  when  Your  Majesty 
took  Varna,'  &c.  as  if,"  continued  he,  "  it  had  been 
the  Emperor  who  reduced  that  place,  and  not 
Count  Vorontzof!*  Had  we  waited  for  the 
former  to  take  Varna,  it  would  have  been  in  pos- 
session of  the  Turks  at  the  present  moment !  " 
He  also  alluded,  in  similar  and  equally  sarcastic 

*  My  informant  has  not  here  done  justice  to  Jusuph 
Pacha !  Did  he  contribute  nothing  towards  the  taking  of 
Varna  ? 


\r 


f 


M 


364 


RESIDENCE   AT    ODESSA. 


RESIDENCE   AT    ODESSA. 


365 


I) 


terms,  to  the  fact  of  a  medal  having  been  struck 
in  Prussia  upon  the  fall  of  Varna,  with  the  bust 
of  the  Emperor  Nicholas  on  one  side,  instead  of 
the  General's  who  commanded  during  the  siege. 
Hence  it  appears  the  military  were  not  pleased 
at  having  their  sovereign  in  the  camp  ;  and  that 
the  ministers  of  state  liked  it  no  better,  may  be 
easily  imagined,  when  it  is  remembered  they 
were  kej)t  in  consequence  on  board  a  vessel  near 
Varna,  where  they  had  to  submit  to  eveiy  pos- 
sible inconvenience  *,  while  they  no  doubt  knew 
that  affairs  would  have  gone  on  much  better 
without  their  presence,  and  the  interference  of 
the  Emperor,  and  they  might  therefore  as  well 
have  been  with  their  families  at  St.  Petersburjr. 

o 

There  is  another  reason  why,  among  the  well- 
wishers  of  their  country,  the  presence  of  the 
Emperor  with  the  army  could  not  be  viewed 
with  satisfaction,  because  all  the  internal  busi- 
ness of  the  empire  becomes,  therefore,  unavoid- 
ably neglected.  As  in  Russia  almost  every 
thing  must  receive  the  personal  attention  of  the 
sovereign,  it  is  evident  what  delays  in  the  admin- 
istration of  justice  must  take  place  if  he  be  two 
thousand  versts  or  more  from  the  capital,  and  the 
papers  requiring  his  signature  thus  have  to  travel 
twice  that  distance  before  they  can  be  acted 
upon.     This  was  one  cause  of  complaint  against 

*  One  of  these  ministers  told  me  he  had  to  write  some- 
times official  documents  while  his  knees  served  Iiim  for  a 
table. 


the  Emperor  Alexander.  During  the  latter 
years  of  his  reign  he  was  almost  constantly 
travelling,  either  in  foreign  states  or  in  distant 
parts  of  his  own  empire  :  this  led  to  immense 
arrears  of  public  business,  produced,  in  conse- 
quence, numerous  and  serious  evils  throughout 
the  country,  and  paved  the  way  for  such  general 
dissatisfaction  as  at  last  to  terminate  in  conspira- 
cies against  his  life.  Sometime  back  liberal 
principles  were  spreading  rather  extensively,  not 
only  in  the  Russian  army,  but  in  the  empire  at 
large,  and  their  origin  is  to  be  traced  to  the 
campaigns  of  1812  and  the  succeeding  years. 
These  necessarily  led  the  Russian  officers  into 
foreign  countries,  and  afforded  them  the  oppor- 
tunity of  comparing  the  latter  with  their  own, 
when  the  obvious  imperfections  of  the  despotic 
system  followed  in  Russia  could  no  longer  be 
concealed.  The  first  aspirations  of  liberal  feel- 
ing thus  excited  were  afterwards  expanded  and 
stimulated  into  comparative  activity  by  the 
friendly  communication  which  took  place  in 
France  between  the  English  and  Russian  offi- 
cers. I  have  heard  these  latter  speak  with 
enthusiasm  of  the  happy  time  they  passed  in 
France,  and  of  the  many  worthy  Englishmen 
they  met  there ;  while  it  appears  that  the  lower 
orders  of  the  Russian  military  found  that  coun- 
try so  much  more  agreeable  than  their  own,  and 
the  diet  with  which  they  were  supplied  by  the 
French  government  so  superior  to  the  allowance 
of  black  bread  upon  which  they  had  been  accus- 


366 


RESIDENCE    AT    ODESSA. 


367 


tomcd  to  starve  in  Russia,  that  (as  I  liave  been 
told  on  the  very  best  authority)  when  the  Rus- 
sian army  was  ordered  to  return  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, desertion  among  the  men  occurred  so 
frequently,  that  at  last  it  became  necessary  to 
adopt  the  severest  measures  to  check  it ;  and 
as  many  as  twenty  soldiers  have  been  ordered 
by  the  Commander-in-chief  to  be  shot  on  one 
morning,  these  having  been  found  guilty  of 
deserting  for  the  third  time,  which,  according 
to  the  Russian  military  code,  is  declared  a 
capital  offence  when  the  army  is  in  a  foreign 
country.  To  the  increase  of  liberal  opinions 
has  been  attributed  by  the  Government  the  con- 
spiracy of  1825  ;  and  to  these  opinions,  it  is 
reported,  the  present  Emperor  is  a  most  decided 
enemy :  in  proof  of  which  I  may  mention,  having 
myself  been  informed  by  persons  of  high  rank, 
that  His  Majesty  strongly  objects  to  the  chikben 
of  the  Russian  nobility  being  educated  abroad, 
and  particularly  in  England.  However  I  may 
feel  bound  to  protest,  from  principle,  against 
such  illiberal  sentiments,  I  view  them,  as  an 
Englishman,  with  satisfaction ;  being  convinced 
that,  so  long  as  despotism  prevails  in  Russia, 
England  need  never  view  her  with  alarm. 


CHAP.  VIL 

SOME    ACCOUNT    OF    THE    IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO 
ODESSA    IN    THE    YEAH    1828. 

PRELIMINARY  OBSERVATIONS. ARRIVAL  OF  THE  EMPEROR 

AND     EMPRESS     AT     ODESSA.  TOWN     ILLUMINATED.  

COLOURS     TAKEN     FROM     THE     TURKS      PARADED     ABOUT 

THE    TOWN. EMPEROR    LEAVES    ODESSA    FOR    ISMAIL. 

TE    DEUM     FOR    THE     PASSAGE    OF    THE    DANUBE. FETE 

CHAMPETRE    GIVEN    TO    THE  EMPRESS  BY  COUNT  VORONT- 

20F. RETURN    OF    THE    EMPEROR. ARRIVAL    OF    LORD 

HEYTESBURY. THEIR  MAJESTIES  LEAVE  FOR  NICOLAIEF. 

RETURN  TO  ODESSA. EMPEROR  LEAVES    FOR  VARNA. 

empress's    proposed    tour    in    the    CRIMEA. RELIN- 
QUISHED   THROUGH     THE     INTRIGUES     OF     HER    SUITE. 

PRESENTATION  OF  THE  PORTRAIT. DEPARTURE  OF  THE 

EMPRESS    FOR    ST.  PETERSBURG. DESERVED    ENCOMIUMS 

ON     THEIR     MAJESTIES.  ARRIVAL     OF     THE     EMPEROR 

FROM    VARNA.  —  DEPARTURE   FOR    ST.  PETERSBURG. 

It  is  seldom  that  an  Imperial  visit  is  made  to 
Odessa  ;  it  creates  much  bustle  when  it  occurs, 
and  gives  rise  to  an  infinity  of  good.  Roads  are 
repaired  that  would  otherwise  have  remained 
neglected,  nuisances  are  removed,  public  build- 
ings restored  and  beautified,  prisons  and  hos- 
pitals inspected,  accounts  adjusted,  and  many  a 
guilty  conscience  is  more  than  ordinarily  sen- 
sitive upon  the  occasion.  The  foregoing  ob- 
servations were  suggested  to  me  from  what  I 
witnessed  at  Odessa  in  all  the  public   depart- 


368 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN    THE    YEAR    1828. 


369 


I) 


ments  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Emperor 
and  Empress,  when  I  will  venture  to  affirm 
there  was  not  any  person  holding  an  official 
appointment,  from  the  Governor-general  down 
to  the  meanest  employey  who  did  not  feel 
anxious. 

May  29th,  1 828.  —  The  Governor-general  hav- 
ing received  official  notice  that  at  tlnee  o'clock 
this  day  the  Emperor  and  Empress  would  enter 
Odessa,    His   Excellency,    dressed   in   the   full 
uniform  of  a  general,  was  in  attendance  at  his 
new  house  to  receive  them  at  that  hour.     The 
route  by  which  he  had  given  directions  that  their 
Majesties  should  be  conducted  was  in  front  of 
the  theatre,  and  along  the  whole  line  of  the  new 
Boulevard,  at  the  further  end  of  which  is  situated 
the  Governor-general's    house.      At   half  past 
three,  having  proceeded  to  the  house  of  Madame 
Kissilef,   on  the  Boulevard,  I  found  assembled 
the  Countess  Vorontzof,  Mesdames  Kissilef,  and 
Leon  Narischkine,  with  Counts  Stanislaus  Po- 
totskii  and  Matusavitch ;  the  two  latter  of  whom 
I  had  frequently  the  honour  of  dining  with  at 
St.  Petersburg.     About  a  quarter  to  four  Colonel 
Hoffiuan  of  the   gendarmes   rode   rai)idly    by, 
infonning  us  as  he  passed,  that  their  Majesties 
were   just  behind.      The   Countess,    elegantly 
dressed,   then  stepped  forwards,  and  took   her 
station  in  the  middle  of  the  balcony,  the  rest  of 
the  company  arranging  themselves  on  either  side 
of  her.    The  Master  of  the  Police  now  appeared 
at  full  gallop,  and  almost  immediately  after  the 


Emperor  and  Empress,  in  an  open  calash,  fol- 
lowed by  three  or  four  other  carriages  containing 
their  suite.  When  passing  the  house  of  Madame 
Kissilef)  their  Majesties  recognised  the  Countess 
Vorontzof,  and  both  moved  to  her  as  they  were 
rapidly  hurried  along.  On  reaching  the  Count's 
mansion,  at  the  entrance  of  which  His  Excel- 
lency w^as  in  waiting,  the  Emperor  having 
descended  from  his  carriage,  embraced  the 
former ;  and  at  the  moment  he  stepped  within 
the  house  door,  the  vessels  in  the  bay  below, 
moored  in  lines  for  the  purpose  of  presenting  an 
agreeable  display  from  the  Boulevard,  com- 
menced  firing  an  Imperial  salute.  This  had 
been  previously  arranged,  and  did  credit  to  those 
intrusted  with  its  management.  The  Boulevard 
was  thronged  with  the  higher  and  respectable 
classes  of  the  residents  at  Odessa,  the  weather 
uncommonly  fine,  the  sea  unruffled,  —  and  the 
whole  formed  a  most  pleasing  spectacle.  After 
dinner  their  Majesties  sent  for  the  Count's  two 
children  to  the  palace^  as  I  must  now  call  it, 
where  they  had  the  honour  of  being  presented  to 
the  Emperor  and  Empress,  with  whom  they  re- 
mained some  time.  In  the  evening  all  the 
houses  in  Odessa  were  brilliantly  lighted  up ; 
and  at  the  end  of  the  Boulevard,  facing  the 
palace,  was  a  triumphal  arch,  also  illuminated, 
which,  seen  from  the  opposite  end,  had  a  pretty 
appearance.  The  quarantine  displayed  similar 
manifestations  of  public  joy;    and  lighted   tar 

B  B 


370 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN    THE    YEAR    1828. 


371 


barrels  placed  all  along  the  pier  produced  a  very 
grand  effect 

May  30th The  Emperor  this  morning,  ac- 
companied by  the  Governor-general,  went  to 
inspect  the  couta,  or  country  house,  preparing 
for  the  residence  of  the  Empress,  visiting  after- 
wards the  hospital  and  the  quarantine.  In  the 
evening  the  town  was  again  illuminated. 

May  31st.  —  Intelligence  was  received  that  a 
skirmish  had  taken  place  on  the  Black  Sea,  in 
which  Admiral  Greig  captured  four  Turkish 
vessels  with  six  colours ;  and  the  latter  having 
been  forwarded  to  Odessa,  were  presented  to  the 
Emperor,  and  at  noon  paraded  about  the  town 
in  the  following  processsion :  —  Two  trumpeters ; 
the  Master  of  the  Police  (on  horseback) ;  six 
mounted  gendarmes ;  six  ditto  ditto,  bearing  the 
captured  colours  ;  two  troops  of  Kozaks  of  the 
Black  Sea,  with  lances  couched.  The  same  day 
the  Emperor  addressed  an  autograph  letter  to 
the  Governor.general,  informing  him  of  His 
Majesty*s  intention  to  present  one  of  the  cap- 
tured colours  to  the  town  of  Odessa,  to  be  pre- 
served in  the  cathedral ;  the  other  five  were  sent 
to  St.  Petersburg.  In  the  evening  the  town  was 
a  third  time  illuminated,  and  at  midnight  the 
Emperor  left  Odessa  for  Ismail. 

June  8th.  —  The  above-mentioned  Turkish 
colour  was  this  day  carried  to  the  cathedral  with 
great  pomp  and  deposited  there.  At  eleven 
o'clock  A.  M.,  the  mayor  of  the  town  and  a  de- 
putation   of  the  merchants   assembled   at  the 


I' 


house  of  the  Governor-general,  and  after  having 
received  from  the  hands  of  His  Excellency  the 
colour,  and  the  Imperial  letter  indicating  its 
destination,  proceeded  to  the  cathedral  in  the 
following  order:  — The  mayor  bearing  the  colour, 
one  of  the  merchants  carrying  the  Imperial 
autograph  upon  a  silver  salver,  the  corporation, 
a  detachment  of  gendarmes  and  Kozaks  closing 
the  procession.  Upon  arriving  at  the  cathedral, 
where  the  Governor-general  and  the  Civil  Go- 
vernor were  in  readiness,  the  latter  receiving 
the  colour  and  the  Imperial  letter  from  their 
respective  bearers,  delivered  them  to  the  high 
priest,  by  whom  they  were  deposited  in  the 
cathedral ;  a  Te  Deum  followed,  and  the  cere- 
mony concluded  with  prayers  for  the  safety  of 
the  Emperor  and  Empress,  and  all  the  Imperial 
family. 

PASSAGE    OF    THE    DANUBE. 

June  10th.  —  News  having  arrived  here  last 
night  of  the  passage  of  the  Danube  by  the  Rus- 
sian troops,  with  the  capture  of  twelve  pieces  of 
cannon,  and  a  number  of  prisoners,  a  Te  Deum 
was  ordered  to  be  performed  this  day  in  conse- 
quence ;  accordingly  at  11  o'clock  in  the  fore- 
noon, accompanied  by  a  young  Russian  friend, 
I  drove  down  to  the  catliedral,  and  gained  access 
as  usual  to  the  gallery,  where  we  had  scarcely 
taken  our  places  before  the  Empress  entered, 
leading  the  youthful  Grand  Duchess  Olga  Nico- 
laievna  by  the  hand.     Her  Imperial  Majesty  was 

B  B  2 


372 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN    THE    YEAR    1828. 


S73 


attired  in  a  rich  lace  dress  over  a  white  satin 
sHp,  with  white  kid  gloves,  and  a  blue  riband 
round  the  waist :  a  superb  row  of  diamonds  en- 
circled her  neck,  and  an  elegant  tiara,  splendidly 
set  with  brilliants  and  other  precious  stones, 
adorned  her  head.  She  looked  pale  and  ill,  and 
I  imagined  somewhat  flurried,  at  the  prominent 
part  she  had  to  sustain.  Those  who  have  seen 
the  beautiful  picture  by  Dawe,  representing  the 
Empress  and  her  two  eldest  children,  must  be 
forcibly  struck  with  the  change  which  ill  health 
has  made  in  her  appearance.  It  is  said,  that  on 
hearing  the  roar  of  the  artillery,  employed  to 
jjuell  the  disturbances  that  took  place  on  the  ac- 
cession of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  Her  Majesty 
fell  into  convulsions,  which  lasted  for  a  lonir 
time,  and  which  returned  repeatedly  during  the 
two  subsequent  years  :  indeed,  even  now%  there 
is  a  nervous  tremour  of  the  head,  the  sequel,  no 
doubt,  of  the  before-mentioned  malady,  which  is 
deeply  to  be  regretted.  The  Empress  stood  on 
the  floor  of  the  cathedral,  nearly  in  the  centre, 
with  the  Grand  Duchess,  an  interesting  little 
girl,  about  nine  years  of  age,  on  her  left ;  on  her 
right  hand  was  the  Countess  Vorontzof,  and  be- 
yond the  Grand  Duchess,  to  the  left,  were  Mes- 
dames  Kissilef  and  Naryschkinewith  the  Countess 
Orlof ;  this  distinguished  group  being  flanked  on 
either  side  by  one  of  the  demoiselles  d'honneur. 
The  rest  of  the  body  of  the  cathedral  was  filled 
entirely  with  civil  and  military  oflficers,  no  one 
being  admitted  there  unless  in  uniform.     The 


i 


ceremony  commenced  by  the  Governor-general 
advancing  within  a  few  feet  of  Her  Majesty,  and 
reading  aloud  the  official  account  respecting  the 
passage  of  the  river,  &c.,  after  which  he  retired 
to  the  left  of  the  Empress  :  the  mass  now  com- 
menced. Her  Majesty  and  the  Grand  Duchess 
remaining  on  their  feet  all  the  time  that  it  con- 
tinued, except  in  one  instance,  when  it  was  ne- 
cessary to  kneel ;  the  only  accommodation  pre- 
pared  for  them    consisting  of  a  small  piece  of 
carpet  spread  upon  the  floor :  the  whole  lasted 
about  an  hour,  and  at  its  conclusion  a  salute  of 
cannon  was  fired  from  the  vessels  in  the  port. 
The  deportment  of  the  Empress  was  gracefully 
dignified,  yet  condescending  in  the  extreme  to 
all  around  her ;  and  when  the  delicate  state  of 
her  health  is  remembered,  and  that  she  had  thus 
publicly  to  go  through  the  forms  of  an  adopted 
religion,  the  trying  nature  of  the  duty  imposed 
upon  her  will  be  sufficiently  evident. 

After  this  period,  in  consequence  of  the  re- 
peated successes  of  the  Russians,  Te  Deums 
became  of  almost  weekly  occurrence  at  Odessa, 
so  that  from  their  frequency  they  ceased  to  pro- 
duce any  interest ;  I  shall  therefore  allow  those 
that  were  subsequently  performed  to  pass  by 
unnoticed. 

On  the  I6th  Her  Majesty  inspected  the  Bo- 
tanic Garden. 

26th.  —  The  Empress  left  the  mansion  of  the 
Governor-general,  and  took  up  her  residence  at 

B  B  3 


374 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN    THE    YEAR    1828. 


375 


the  couta  of  Baron   Rainaud,  which  had  been 
prepared  for  Her  Majesty's  reception. 

fI:te  champetre  given  to  the  empress. 

On  the  birth-day  of  the  Empress,  July  13th,  a 
fete    champetre   was    given   by   the   Governor- 
general,  in  honour  of  the  occasion.     About  six 
o'clock  in  the  evening  I  drove  to  the  couta,  at 
the  outer  gate  of  which  I  found  a  party  of  gen- 
darmes and  Kozaks,  and  upon  the  top  of  the  cliifT 
which  bounds  the  gardens,  at  distances  of  about 
twenty  feet,  Kozaks  were  also  stationed.     De- 
scending from  the  cliff,  the  ground  gradually  in- 
dining  to  the  edge  of  the  sea,  I  reached  the 
centre  of  the  gardens  about  half-past  six,   the 
hour  fixed  for  the  arrival  of  Her  Majesty.     The 
grounds  of  Count  Vorontzof's  couta  are  separated 
from  those  of  the  couta  wherein  the  Empress  re- 
sided by  a  deep  ravine,  over  which  a  wooden 
bridge  had  recently  been  thrown  for  Her  Ma- 
jesty's accommodation :  about  fifly  yards  from 
this  bridge,  on  the  road  by  which  the  illustrious 
visiter  was  to  arrive,  a  triumphal  arch,  covered 
with  boughs  of  trees,  rushes,  &c.  had  been  con- 
structed ;  further  on  to  the  lefl  of  the  road  was 
a  theatre,  formed  of  similar  materials,  with  seats 
placed  in  front.     In  another  part  of  the  gardens, 
on  the  edge  of  the  sea,  was  a  tent,  composed  of 
spears  and  Turkish  draperies  ;  and  on  returning 
from  hence,  towards  the  entrance  of  the  grounds, 
an  open  space  was  found,  where  refreshments 
were  to  be  served  ;  still  proceeding  in  the  same 


™ 


direction,    a  spot  next  presented  itself,   which 
having  been  cleared  of  trees  and  levelled  was 
covered  with  a  Turkey  carpet,  for  the  purpose 
of  dancing,  if  Her  Majesty  should  permit  this 
amusement :  on  the  left,  again,  was  another  small 
theatre,  and  further  on,  up  the  hill,  the  couta 
itself  appeared,  having  a  large  balcony  or  viranda 
overlooking  the  whole  of  the  gardens  and  the 
Black  Sea.     Near  the  bridge,   on  an  eminence, 
the  band  of  a  regiment  of  lancers  was  stationed, 
and  just  in  front  of  the  triumphal  arch  before 
mentioned  about  fifty  young  ladies,  from  the 
ages  of  six  to  twenty  years,  were  arranged  on 
each  side  of  the  road,  the  whole  of  them  being 
habited  in  white,  but  divided  into  parties  by  a 
difference  in  the  colour  of  their  hats,  as  also  in 
that  of  the  bodies  and  trimmings  of  their  dresses, 
which  with  some  were  blue,  and  in  other  in- 
stances pink.     The  youngest  were  placed  first, 
or  nearest  the  bridge,  and  the  eldest  furthest  from 
it.     At  the  head  of  this  interesting  band  were 
the  daughters  of  the  Governor-general  and  the 
Port-captain,    the  former  being  eight  years  of 
age,  the  latter  about  six.     The  young  ladies  were 
succeeded  by  those  more  advanced  in  life,  who 
took  their  stations  in  the  same  order,  on  either 
side  of  the  road  ;  and  beyond  these,  the  gentle- 
men were  similarly  arranged.     About  the  time 
appointed.  Count  Moden,  master  of  the  ceremo- 
nies  to  the  Empress,  appeared  at  the  triumphal 
arch,  and  announced  the  approach  of  Her  Ma- 
jesty  to  the  Count  and  Countess,  who  were  in 

B  B    4 


376 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN   THE    YEAR    1828. 


377 


I 


waiting  there,  and  who  in  consequence  proceeded 
to  the  bridge ;  when  shortly  afterwards  Her 
Imperial  Majesty  was  seen  leading  the  Grand 
Duchess  by  the  hand,  accompanied  by  the  Count 
and  Countess  Vorontzofi  and  followed  by  the 
Countess  Orlof  and  Prince  Volskonsky,  the  mar- 
shal of  the  Imperial  household,  as  well  as  the 
four  demoiselles  cPhonneur,  When  the  Empress 
had  arrived  nearly  at  the  place  where  the  young 
ladies  were  stationed,  the  little  Countess  Voront- 
zof)  an  interesting  child,  bearing  a  garland  of 
flowers,  advanced  to  meet  Her  Majesty,  made 
her  obeisances,  and  presented  the  garland,  which 
was  most  graciously  received :  the  Empress  then, 
with  the  wreath  in  her  hand,  proceeded  onwards, 
the  ladies  falling  back  on  each  side  to  allow  her 
to  pass,  and  afterwards  joining  in  the  procession 
two  and  two,  the  gentlemen  following  in  the 
same  manner.  On  the  Empress  appearing,  the 
band  struck  up,  and  continued  playing  martial 
airs  until  Her  Majesty  had  arrived  at  the  theatre, 
when  they  left  their  situation,  and  occupied  an- 
other eminence  in  advance,  being  thus  in  readi- 
ness to  welcome  Her  Majesty's  presence  in  a 
different  part  of  the  grounds.  The  Empress  now 
seated  herself  in  the  centre  of  the  first  bench, 
having  the  Grand  Duchess  on  her  right  hand, 
and  the  Countess  Branitskii,  the  grand-maitresse 
de  la  couvy  on  her  left,  the  rest  of  the  ladies 
occupying  the  remaining  seats,  and  the  gentle- 
men standing  behind.  The  actors  and  actresses 
of  the  Odessa  theatre,  aided  by  its  orchestra,  now 


amused  their  distinguished  audience,  by  the  per- 
formance of  a  few  scenes  from  an  opera  of  Ros- 
sini, which  lasted,  perhaps,  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  when  the  Empress  and  the  company  rose. 
Her  Majesty  was  next  conducted  to  the  tent  on 
the  sea-shore,  the  band  being  near,  but  concealed 
by  trees :  three  warriors  in  armour,  with  lances 
in  their  hands,  now  took  their  stations  on  the 
beach,  and  a  fourth  (Mademoiselle  Mariconi, 
prima  donna  of  the  Opera,)  appeared  in  a  boat 
on  the  sea,  who  being  rowed  to  the  shore  and 
landed,  one  of  the  scenes  from  Rossini's  opera 
of  Tancred  was  then  performed.  The  subject 
was  happily  selected,  the  real  scenery  supersed- 
ing the  humble  substitutes  usually  employed  in 
theatrical  spectacles,  and  Mademoiselle  Mariconi 
displayed  her  usual  skill  on  the  occasion.  About 
twenty  minutes  having  been  thus  occupied,  the 
Empress  proceeded  to  that  part  of  the  gardens 
where  tables  had  been  laid  out :  one  prepared 
for  the  Empress  was  furnished  with  gilt  plate ; 
the  Countess  Branitskii,  and  a  few  ladies  of  the 
highest  rank,  also  sitting  at  this  table.  Opposite 
to  the  latter,  was  another  much  larger,  where  the 
demoiselles  d^honneuvy  and  the  ladies  generally, 
took  tea,  or  other  refreshments ;  the  gentlemen 
being  supplied  afterwards.  On  the  conclusion 
of  the  repast,  the  Empress  was  escorted  to  the 
place  intended  for  dancing.  Her  Majesty's  per- 
mission being  obtained  for  the  purpose.  As  soon 
as  she  was  seated,  the  musicians  commenced 
playing,  and  waltzes  and  quadrilles  were  danced 


fl 


378 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN    THE    YEAR    18^8. 


379 


for  at  least  an  hour  and  a  half,  during  which  time 
refreshments  were  occasionally  handed   round, 
such  as  ices,  negus,  &c.     So  long  as  the  Empress 
remains  seated,  the  dancing  continues,  her  rising 
being  the  signal  for  it  to  cease.     The  evening 
had  now  become  dark,  and  the  triumphal  arch 
was  covered  with   lamps;    the  different   paths 
through  the  gardens,  over  hill  and  dale,  were  also 
illuminated,  while  Chinese  and  Argand   lamps 
were  interspersed  among  the  trees.     Opposite  to 
the  couta  was  moored  a  frigate,  having  lamps 
affixed  to  the  masts,  yards,  and  hull :  this  had  a 
very  pretty  effect  from  the  gardens.     Her  Ma- 
jesty  at  length  rose,  the  dancing  ceased,  and  she 
was  attended  to  another  little  Gothic  theatre, 
where  the  entertainment  consisted  of  music  and 
singing;  on  the  termination  of  which  Her  Ma- 
jesty entering  a  carriage,  and  accompanied  by 
some  of  the  elder  ladies,  was  conveyed  up  the  hill 
to  the  couta,  and  shortly  afterwards  appeared  in 
the  balcony,  where  supper  had  been  laid  out  for 
the  Empress  and  court.    This  being  nearly  con- 
eluded,  the  health  of  Her  Majesty  was  drunk  by 
all  the  company  standing ;  upon  which  "  God 
save  the  Emperor"  was  played,  and  at  the  same 
instant  rockets  being  sent  up  from  behind  the 
couta,  by  way  of  signal,  a  salute  of  101  guns 
(36  pounders)  was  fired  from  the  frigate  lying 
opposite  in  the  bay.     As  soon  as  the  salute  was 
concluded,  the  Governor-general,  in  a  speech 
highly   complimentary   to  myself,    did   me  the 
honour  of  presenting  me  to  the  Empress  :  I  was 


most  graciously  received ;  and  Her  Majesty  was 
so  condescending,  as  to  converse  with  me  some 
time  most  affably,  after  which  I  retired,  and  an- 
other gentleman  was  also  presented ;  when  a 
short  interval  having  elapsed.  Her  Majesty  and 
the  court  rose  and  took  their  departure. 

The  next  morning  the  Countess  Vorontzof  re- 
ceived a  most  gratifying  letter  from  the  Empress, 
thanking  her  for  the  entertainments  of  the  pre- 
ceeding  evening,  with  which  she  expressed  her- 
self highly  pleased. 

July  30th.  —  M.  Filler,  one  of  the  professors  of 
the  "  Lyceum  of  Richelieu, "  having  composed 
and  sent  to  the  Empress  an  "  Ode  on  her  Birth- 
day," Her  Majesty  presented  him  with  a  diamond 
ring,  as  a  mark  of  her  approbation. 

August  3d. — The  fete-day  of  the  Empress- 
mother  and  other  branches  of  the  Imperial  family 
happening  to  fall  on  this  day,  the  reigning  Em- 
press gave  an  entertainment  at  her  couta,  where, 
in  the  evening,  the  gardens  were  illuminated  and 
fireworks  discharged. 

August  8th. — The  inhabitants  of  Odessa  were 
apprized  of  the  unexpected  arrival  of  the  Em- 
peror, on  board  the  Flora  frigate,  from  Varna, 
accompanied  by  the  Grand  Duke  Michel.  His 
Majesty  landed  at  the  couta  of  the  Empress,  who 
was  most  agreeably  surprised,  having  had  no  pre- 
vious intimation  of  the  visit  of  her  illustrious 
husband. 

August  10th. — The  Emperor  and  Empress 
proceeded  to  their  town  residence,  where  Lord 


Sfgar-rr  — 


380 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN    THE    YEAR    1828. 


381 


■t 


\i  \ 


II 


Heytesbury,  His  Britannic  Majesty's  Ambassador 
Extraordinary  had  the  Iionour  of  being  presented 
to  their  Imperial  Majesties.  Lord  Heytesbury 
was  afterwards  a  frequent  visitor  at  the  Governor- 
general's ;  and  I  had  many  opportunities  of  hear- 
ing  the  opinions  entertained  respecting  this  dis- 
tinguished  nobleman,  by  various  members  of  the 
court  circle,  who  always  spoke  in  admiration  of 
him ;  the  mild  and  condescending,  yet  dignified 
manners  of  His  Lordship  securing  the  respect  of 
all,  from  the  Emperor  downwards. 

August  25th.  — In  the  evening  the  Emperor 
and  Empress  embarked  on  board  the  Outckha 
yacht  for  Nikolaief;  where  their  Majesties  stopped 
two  days,  during  which  they  inspected  tlie  Ad- 
miralty  and  its  slips,  the  Observatory,  the  Depot 
for  Maps,  and  the  School  for  Pilots,  as  well  as 
two  private  yards  for  ship-building  belonging  to 
Messrs.  Perofsky  and  Serebrenoi.     On  the  slips 
of  the  Admiralty  were  found  two  vessels  of  64 
guns,  and  one  of  84,  nearly  ready  for  launching. 
On  those  of  M.  Perofsky  a  vessel  of  the  line 
building,  and  materials  for  another  three-decker 
about   to   be   commenced;   in  M.  Serebrenoi's 
yard  a  frigate,  a  corvette,  and  several  transports 
in  the  progress  of  building.    The  Empress  visited 
the  School  for  the  Daughters  of  Sailors;  and  the 
Emperor  having  reviewed  two  battalions  of  the 
army  of  reserve  under  the  orders  of  General 
Count  de  Witt,  their  Majesties  returned  on  the 
28th  to  Odessa. 

Sept.  2d.— The  Emperor  left  Odessa  in  the 


/ 


Flora  frigate,  for  the  purpose  of  proceeding  to 
Varna. 

Sept.  3d.  — The  Emperor  returned  to  Odessa 
at  night  most  unexpectedly,  and  shortly  after  set 
off  by  land  for  his  former  destination.  His  Ma- 
jesty's rapid  return  was  privately  said  to  be  in 
consequence  of  a  report  that  some  Turkish  Cor- 
sairs had  passed  the  Bosphorus,  and  were  cruising 
in  the  Black  Sea. 

It  had  been  for  some  time  the  intention  of  Her 
Majesty  to  visit  the  Crimea,  several  preparations 
being  made  for  the  journey,  and  even  the  day 
fixed  for  her  departure.  However,  this  visit  to 
the  Crimea  was  not  relished  by  the  suite  in  ge- 
neral :  some  wanted  to  return  to  their  families 
at  St.  Petersburg,  while  others  had  various,  and 
not  the  most  creditable,  reasons  for  wishing  the 
excursion  to  be  relinquished  ;  they  therefore  de- 
termined to  prevent  it  if  possible,  and  they  suc- 
ceeded. I  happen  to  have  my  information  from 
the  highest  and  most  unquestionable  authority ; 
and  I  know  from  facts  which  afterwards  occurred, 
that  what  I  have  stated  and  have  yet  to  state  on 
"the  subject  is  true.  In  pursuance  of  the  above 
determination,  the  Empress  was  indirectly  given 
to  understand  that  the  Crimea  was  unhealthy, 
being  also  reminded  that  the  Emperor  Alexander 
died  at  Taganroc,  after  a  tour  in  that  province ; 
and  several  other  means  were  employed  in  order 
to  influence  Her  Majesty's  mind;  and  accordingly, 
on  September  4th,  it  was  announced  that  the  Em- 
press had  given  up  her  intention  of  visiting  the 


I' 


\^ 


382 


IMPERIAI-    VISIT   TO   ODESSA 


ifcp 


Crimea,  and,  in  consequence,  had  fixed  the  20th 
instant  for  setting  off  to  St.  Petersburg,  thus  af- 
fording a  striking  proof  how  much  even  absolute 
sovereigns  themselves  are  ruled  by  those  whom 
they  are  supposed  to  govern. 

Sept.  6th. — The  Empress  inspected  the  In- 
stitute pour  les  Demoiselles  Nobles  in  the  town, 
and  expressed  her  approbation  of  the  progress 
evinced  by  the  young  ladies. 

Sept.  8th.  —  Her  Majesty  this  day  honoured 
the  Museum  with  her  presence,  and  examined, 
in  detail,  the  antiquities  which  it  contains. 

Sept.  I6th. — The  Empress  visited  the  Lyceum 
of  Richelieu,  and  expressed  to  its  director.  Dr. 
Orlai,  her  high  approbation  of  the  state  in  which 
she  found  the  establishment.  After  having  gone 
through  every  part,  the  august  visitor  inscribed 
her  name  in  the  book  of  the  Lyceum,  wliere  are 
also  the  autograph  signatures  of  the  late  and  the 
present  Emperor  of  Russia. 


PORTRAIT  OF  THE  EMPRESS. 

Sept.  17th. — This  being  the  fete-day  or  name's 
day  of  the  Countess  Vorontzof,  the  Empress,  with 
her  characteristic  kindness,  sent  the  Countess  Her 
Majesty's  portrait,  set  in  diamonds,  so  as  to  form 
a  bracelet.  It  is  a  most  elegant  as  well  as  valu- 
able piece  of  jewelry.  The  portrait  represents 
Her  Majesty  in  her  coronation  robes,  with  the 
crown  on  her  head :  it  is  of  an  octangular  form, 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  by  one  inch  in 
width,  surrounded  with  diamonds  the  size  of  an 


h 


IN  THE  YEAR  1828. 


383 


ordinary  pea.  The  bracelet  is  formed  of  large 
links  of  silver,  thickly  studded  with  smaller  bril- 
liants.  The  presentation  of  the  portrait  is  con- 
sidered the  highest  compliment  that  can  be  paid 
to  a  lady :  it  is  accounted  as  the  first  order,  being, 
moreover,  regarded  as  an  especial  mark  of  the 
high  estimation  which  the  Imperial  donor  enter- 
tains of  the  transcendant  merits  of  the  individual 
on  whom  it  is  conferred.  The  Emperor's  por- 
trait, which  is  given  to  gentlemen,  is,  of  course, 
held  in  a  similar  liglit  with  that  of  his  august 
consort,  and  is  as  rarely  bestowed.  In  the  pre- 
ceding  reign  Count  Araktcheef  *,  the  founder  of 
the  Military  Colonies,  was  alone  honoured  with 
this  mark  of  his  Imperial  master's  approbation ; 
and  since  the  present  Emperor's  accession,  one 
person  only  has  received  the  portrait,  namely. 
Count  Kotchubey,  Lord  President  of  the  Council, 
who  I  have  always  heard  described  as  a  talented 
and  excellent  man. 

Sept.  19th. — The  Empress  this  day  received 
the  ladies  who  had  been  presented  at  court,  with 
all  the  local,  civil,  and  military  authorities,  to 
take  their  leave  on  the  occasion  of  Her  Majesty's 
^  contemplated  departure  from  Odessa.  After- 
wards  the  foreign  ambassadors,  and  the  other 
diplomatic  characters  who  happened  to  be  in  the 
town,  had  an  audience  of  Her  Majesty  for  the 
same  purpose. 

*  This  nobleman,  who  was  the  bosom  friend  of  Alexander, 
would  now,  as  I  am  informed,  be  sent  to  Siberia  if  he  were 
within  the  Russian  frontiers.  Such  are  the  vicissitudes 
which  take  place  in  Russia  ! 


"j 


384 


IMPERIAL    VISIT    TO    ODESSA 


IN   THE    YEAR    1828. 


385 


\i' 


ti 


Sept.  21st.  — This  morning  the  Empress,  after 
hearing  mass  in  the  chapel  of  the  palace,  attended 
divine  service  in  the  cathedral,  and  then  com- 
menced her  journey  to  St.  Petersburg.  Her 
suite  consisted  of  the  Countess  Orlof,  with  four 
demoiselles  d'honneiir,  the  Prince  Volskonsky, 
minister  of  the  Imperial  household,  and  Count 
Moden,  graiid  veneur.  Previously  to  departing. 
Her  Majesty  presented  the  Civil  Governor  with 
15,000  roubles,  to  be  distributed  by  him  among 
the  sick  soldiers  in  the  town,  upon  their  discharge 
from  the  hospital.  The  Empress  sojourned  in 
Odessa  less  than  four  months ;  and  during  that 
time  her  unaffected  piety,  goodness  of  heart,  and 
condescending  manners,  gained  her  the  respect, 
the  esteem,  and  the  love  of  all.  Her  Majesty  is, 
in  every  respect,  a  real  blessing  to  Russia;  and 
it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  bright  example  dis- 
played by  herself  and  her  illustrious  husband,  of 
conjugal  affection  and  fidelity,  may  lead  to  a 
more  virtuous  line  of  conduct  among  the  Russian 
nobility  of  a  future  day,  than  that  which,  I  am 
sorry  to  say,  is  too  often  adopted  by  those  of  the 
present. 

October  18th. — About  four  o'clock  this  morn- 
ing the  Emperor,  accompanied  by  Count  Voront- 
zof,  reached  Odessa,  having  been  brought  ashore 
by  the  Port  Captain  in  a  cutter,  and  about  a 
couple  of  hours  after  landing  departed  for  St. 
Petersburg.  The  vessel  which  had  conveyed  His 
Imperial  Majesty  from  Varna  encountered  a  most 
terrible  storm  on  the  passage,  and  among  other 


injuries  had  sustained  the  loss  of  her  topmasts ; 
—  in  fact,  all  on  board  were  exposed  to  the  most 
imminent  danger.  In  the  same  vessel  arrived 
also  Count  Nestlerode,  General  Benkendorf,  Ge- 
neral Prince  Trubetskoi,  with  Count  Orlof  Deni- 
zof,  aides-de-camp  generals  to  the  Emperor,  and 
Count  Stanislaus  Pototskii,  Grand  Master  of  the 
Ceremonies,  who,  after  sojourning  some  time  at 
the  Govemor-generaPs,  proceeded  to  St  Peters- 
burg to  join  their  Imperial  Master. 


c  c 


^)j 


386 


CHAR  VIIL 

AUTHENTIC  PARTICULARS   RELATIVE   TO   VARNA. 

THE   EMPEHOR    REQUESTS   COUNT  VORONTZOP    TO    COMMAND 

AT     VARNA. — THE    LATTER     LEAVES     ODESSA.  LORD 

SINGHAM.  TAKING     OF     VARNA.  OBSERVATION     OF 

THE  EMPEROR    RELATIVE    TO    THE   TAKING  OF  VARNA. 

STATEMENTS     OF     THE     QUARTERLY     REVIEW     PROBABLY 

CORRECT. BY    WHAT    MEANS    WAS    VARNA    TAKEN? 

STATEMENTS     OF     VARIOUS     PERSONS. STATEMENT     OF 

COUNT  VORONTZOF.  —  REPORTED  CRUELTY    OF    THE  CAPI- 

TAN    PACHA. RUSSIAN    PLUNDER. EMPEROR's     LETTER 

TO  COUNT  VORONTZOF. —  PRESENT  OF  A  GOLDEN  SWORD 
AND  A  FIELD-PIECE.  —  JU8UPH  PACHA.  —  ARRIVES  IN 
ODESSA. MANNER  IN  WHICH  HE  WAS  TREATED. — AT- 
TENDS THE  GOVERNOR  GENERAL's  BALLS.  THE  PACHA*S 

CIRCASSIAN  WIFE  DINES  WITH  THE  COUNTESS  VORONTZOF. 
—  EUNUCH. OPINIONS  OF  THE  RUSSIAN  LADIES  RE- 
SPECTING THE  PACHA.  — QUARTERLY  REVIEW'S  STATE- 
MENT    RIGHT.  —  TRICK     PLAYED     UPON     THE     GOVERNOR 

GENERAL. INSTANCE     OF     DESPOTISM. THE    CAPITAN 

pacha's    medical    ATTENDANT    AND  THREE  OTHER    PRI- 
SONERS  ARRIVE    IN    ODESSA. LODGED    IN    THE   GAOL. 

DREADFUL  CONDITION.  —  ORDERED  TO  SIBERIA.  —  OB- 
SERVATIONS   THEREON. 

August  28th,  1829.  —  Upon  returning  this 
evening  from  the  country,  I  was  informed  that 
Count  Vorontzof  had  received  a  letter  from  the 
Emperor,  requesting  him  as  a  favour  to  take  the 
command  in  chief  of  tlie  troops  employed  in  the 


PARTICULARS   RELATIVE    TO    VARNA.         387 

siege  of  Varna.  This  news  was  speedQy  con- 
firmed by  the  Count  himself,  whom  I  shortly 
afterwards  saw,  and  who  told  me  that  he  should 
leave  Odessa  in  consequence  on  the  following 
day. 

August  26th.  —  After  having  taken  an  early 
dinner.  Count  Vorontzof  embarked  from  the 
military  port  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  and  was 
speedily  conveyed  on  board  the  **  Standard" 
frigate,  the  vessel  which  had  been  ordered  to 
land  him  at  Varna.  His  senior  aide-de-camp, 
the  Port-captain,  and  a  few  other  persons,  in- 
eluding  myself;  followed  in  another  boat.  The 
Count  was  received  on  board  by  the  officers  and 
men  under  arms,  drums  beating,  &c. ;  the  guns 
had  been  loaded  for  the  purpose  of  firing  the 
usual  salute,  but  His  Excellency  gave  orders  that 
this  ceremony  should  be  dispensed  with.  On 
board,  among  other  persons,  I  met  Lord  Bing- 
ham,  with  whom  I  had  had  the  honour  of  dining 
several  times  at  the  table  of  the  Governor-general. 
His  Lordship  was  going  as  a  volunteer  to  the 
siege  of  Varna ;  and  I  afterwards  learned  that, 
among  other  military  duties,  he  had  joined  in  a 
charge  of  cavalry  against  the  Turks,  and  that  the 
Emperor  had  conferred  upon  him  the  insignia 
of  the  order  of  St.  Vladimir.  From  the  time 
Count  Vorontzof  took  command  of  the  troops 
until  the  Russians  occupied  Varna  we  received 
various  reports  as  to  the  progress  of  the  siege, 
which,  it  is  evident,  continued  much  longer  than 
was  at  first  anticipated  even  by  himself  j  for,  in 

c  c  2 


A^ 


388 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE    TO   VARNA* 


389 


a  letter  from  His  Excellency,  received  at  Odessa 
on  the  15th  of  September,  in  forty  hours  from 
Varna,  he  said  that  the  taking  of  that  fortress 
might  be  daily  looked  for  ;  and  in  another,  dated 
the  29th  of  the  same  month,  he  mentioned  that 
the  garrison  was  to  be  summoned,  for  the  last 
time,  to  surrender  on  the  29th,  and  that,  if  not 
then  given  up,  the  assault  was  to  take  place  ;  yet 
the  official  report  of  the  capture  of  Varna  did 
not  ultimately  reach  Odessa  until  the  afternoon 
of  the  15th  of  October,  when  it  was  made  known 
to  the  inhabitants  generally  by  the  discharge  of 
cannon  from  the  vessels  lying  at  anchor  in  the 
bay.  I  have  been  informed,  on  the  best  autlio- 
rity,  that  one  cause  of  the  delay  which  occurred 
in  the  taking  of  Varna  was  the  intrigues  which, 
as  is  usual  with  the  Russians,  were  going  on  at 
head-quarters  ;  that,  in  consequence  of  the  many 
idle  persons  who  were  there,  the  measures  of  the 
General  actually  commanding  were  frequently 
frustrated,  and  that  but  for  this  interference  the 
place  would  have  been  in  possession  of  the  Rus- 
sians long  before  it  was.*  This  appears  to  be 
confirmed  by  what  1  have  been  assured  passed 
between  the  Emperor  and  Count  Vorontzof  when 
the  former  landed  at  Odessa  on  the  20th  of  Oc- 

♦  It  was  stated  lately,  in  an  English  provincial  paper, 
that  a  gentleman,  who  had  recently  passed  through  the 
Russian  military  positions  in  European  Turkey,  "  expresses 
his  astonishment  that  the  Russians  were  so  long  in  effecting 
the  reduction  of  that  fortress  (Varna).  *  It  was,*  he  states, 
*  ill  fortified,  and  ought  to  have  been  reduced  in  a  very 
few  days* 


> »» 


tober ;  His  Majesty  observing  to  the  latter,  "  I 
shall  never  forget  what  you  have  suffered  for  me 
at  Varna/*     This  could  not  allude,  according  to 
my  informant,  to  the  bodily  fatigues  experienced 
during  the  siege  by  the  Count,  for  these  were  of 
short  duration,  and  mere  trifles  to  an  old  General; 
but  to  the  cabals  and  intrigues  which  had  been 
carrying  on,  all  the  time  he  was  at  Varna,  against 
himself  and  his  measures.     This,  it  is  said,  is 
always  the  case  with  the  Russians  during  a  war. 
The  soldiers  are  excellent,  inasmuch  as  they  are 
able  and  willing  to  face  danger  and  undergo 
fatigue,  and  ready  to  attempt  whatever  they  may 
be    ordered   to   execute  ;    but  the  officers   are 
described  as  being  perpetually  in  a  state  of  in- 
subordination, —  the  juniors   caballing   against 
their  superiors,  the  Generals  against  the  Com- 
mander-in-chief; and  I  was  told  it  was  to  keep 
the  superior  officers  in  order  that  the  Emperor  was 
himself  present  with  the  army ;  for  it  may  be  set 
down  as  an  axiom  with  respect  to  Russia,  that 
nothing  goes  on  well  where  the  Emperor  is  not 
The  writer  of  a  most  excellent  article  on  "  St. 
Petersburg,'*  in  the  Quarterly  Review,  mentions 
"  that  he  can  state,  on  good  authority,  that  when 
the  battering  train  was  brought  up  before  Varna 
it  was  found  the  shot  would  not  fit  the  cannon, 
and  that  they  were  obliged  to  send  to  Moscow 
and  Petersburg  for  a  supply."     Whether  this 
was  or  was  not  the  case,  I  cannot  say  (although 
it  is  so  like  what  generally  happens  in  Russia 
that  I  think  it  cannot  be  questioned) ;  but  / 

G  c  3 


390 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


know  that,  when  the  army  first  began  to  march, 
in  consequence  of  the  negligence,  or  rather  ras- 
caUty,  of  those  whose  duty  it  was  to  have  pro- 
vided proper  magazines,  the  soldiers  were  without 
provisions,  and  the  horses  without  fodder.*     At 
an  after  period,  when  the  troops  were  before 
Varna,  the  want  of  forage  was  so  great,  from 
other  causes,  that  the  horses  even  of  the  Com- 
mander-in-chief were   obliged   to   be  fed  with 
rushes  and  other  plants  gathered  from  the  mo- 
rasses, and  with  green  corn,  when  any  could  be 
found  standing  in  the  fields.     Great  numbers 
were  lost  in  consequence  of  this  scarcity,  and  a 
great  part  of  the  oxen  which  were  employed  in 
the  transport  of  provisions  and  other  necessaries 
for  the  army,   died  of  starvation.      Sir  James 
Wylie  informed  me,  on  his  return  from  the  army, 
that  three  thousand  oxen  were  lying  dead  by  the 
road-side  from  that  cause.     I  shall  now  come  to 
the  question,  "  By  what  means  did  the  Russians 
gain  possession  of  Varna  ?  "     To  this  I  answer, 
unhesitatingly,  By  gold,  through  the  agency  of 
the  second  in  command,  Jusuph  Pacha.     My 
frequent   communication   with  military  officers 
and  other  persons  who  had  been  at  Varna  during 
the  siege,  has  convinced  me  of  the  truth  of  what 
I  have  just  asserted.     Notwithstanding  the  cau- 


*  Upon  my  arrival  in  England,  I  learned  from  the  news- 
papers, that  a  general  had  been  shot  in  consequence  of  the 
circumstances  here  alluded  to ;  but  such  secrecy  was  ob- 
served at  the  time  of  its  occurrence  by  the  Russians,  that  I 
never  heard  of  it  at  Odessa. 


RELATIVE   TO  VAKNA. 


391 


tion  with  which  some  of  the  former  would  fre- 
quently talk  upon  the  subject,  for  fear  of  com-^ 
promising  themselves,  yet  they  could  not  cOn(:?eal 
the  truth,  or  at  any  rate  their  opinions^  Thu^j 
an  officer  of  rank,  one  day,  while  conversing  with 
me  in  my  own  rooms  about  Varna,  upon  my 
mentioning  the  name  of  Jusoph  Pacha,  imme- 
diately exclaimed,  in  an  under  tone,  "  trahison^* 
and  then  abruptly  changed  the  subject.  Ther6 
could  be  no  question  here  as  to  whom  the  word 
"  trahison  ^  applied ;  and  it  is  also  certain  that 
no  one  could  know  better  than  that  officer  (for 
reasons  which  I  shall,  for  his  sake,  conceal)  what 
was  really  the  case.  An  eye-witness  of  what 
took  place  within  the  walls  of  Varna,  from  the 
commencement  of  the  siege  until  its  termination^ 
informed  me  that  Jusuph  Pacha  delivered  up  that 
fortress;  and  that,  during  its  bombardment  by  the 
Russians,  he  exhibited  great  cowardice.  But 
the  Russian  Commander-in-chief  gives  a  different 
account  of  the  affair ;  and,  as  I  wish  to  be  im^ 
partial,  I  shall  let  him  speak  for  himself,  and  the 
reader  will  then  have  the  opportunity  of  forming 
his  own  conclusions  upon  the  subject.  The  fol- 
lowing extract  from  my  daily  journal  contains 
the  account  in  question:  —  "Jan.  3d,  18^9. — 
Upon  entering  the  Count's  library  this  morning, 
1  found  him  out  of  humour,  his  secretary  having 
been  reading  the  English  papers  to  him,  which 
had  just  arrived,  containing  the  intelligence  that 
Varna  had  been  bought  by  the  Russians.  Almost 
as  soon  as  the  usual  salutations  had  been  ex- 

c  c  4 


392 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


changed.  His  Excellency  observed  to  me,  <  I  see 
from  the  London  papers,  it  is  said  in  England, 
that  Varna  was  sold :  this  is  false  j  and  you  may 
use  my  name  in  contradicting  it,  if  you  choose. 
If  I  could  have  bought  Varna,  I  would  have 
done  so.     Buonaparte  was  always  in  the  habit  of 
getting  hold  of  fortresses  in  this  way  when  he 
could  ;  and  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say,  as  a  General, 
that  I  should  have  considered  it  much  better  to 
have  purchased  the  surrender  of  Varna  than  to 
have  sacrificed  so  many  men  in  taking  it :   but 
I  could  not     It  was  impossible  lor  the  Turks  to 
hold  out  any  longer ;  the  town  was  so  battered 
by  our  guns  as  to  be  no  longer  defensible,  and  at 
least  one  half  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  killed/ 
His  Excellency  then  went  on  to  say,  that  '  the 
Pacha  who  commanded  at  Varna  was  a  most 
barbarous  wretch,  who  had  exercised  unheard-of 
cruelty  towards  the  Russians,  and  even  delighted 
in  venting  his  spite  upon  the  slain.     One  day,  in 
particular,  he  caused  the  head  of  a  Russian  officer 
killed  in  action  to  be  cut  off  and  stuck  upon  the 
end  of  a  long  pole,  which  he  had  suspended  so 
as  to  vibrate  like  a  pendulum,  and  thus  cause  the 
head  to  wag  backwards  and  forwards  ;  and  this 
he  had  placed  before  his  window  while  he  was 
at  dinner,  and  ordered  to  be  kept  in  perpetual 
motion  for  his  amusement ! '  '*    But,  however  bad 
the  Turks  may  be,  I  am  afraid  the  Russians  are 
not  much  better.     The  Russian  soldiers,  receiv- 
ing no  prize-money  as  with  us,  are  always  allowed 
to  plunder:  this  leads  to  an  immense  deal  of 


RELATIVE   TO   VARNA. 


S93 


unnecessary  bloodshed  and  suffering.     The  valet 
who  accompanied  Count  Vorontzof  to  Varna, 
although  not  a  soldier,  shared  also  in  the  spoils 
of  war,  and  returned  to  Odessa  with  a  collec- 
tion  of  silver-ornamented  Turkish  guns,  pistols, 
swords,  knives,  &c.,  for  which  he  had  been  of- 
fered (but  had  refused)  800  roubles,  or  about 
34/.  sterling.     Among  the  rest  of  his  plunder 
was  a  cartouch-box,  the  unfortunate  bearer  of 
which,  a  Turk,  was  severely  wounded,  but  not 
dead,  when  a  Russian  soldier  came  up  to  strip 
him  ;  but,  perceiving  life  not  yet  extinct,  thrust 
his  bayonet  through  his  victim's  back!     The 
valet  was  approaching  when  this  took  place,  and, 
after  tlie  soldier  had  taken  all  he  wished,  re- 
quested he  would  give  him  the  cartouch-box ; 
upon  which  he  cut  it  off  from  the  expiring  Turk 
and  delivered  it  to  him.     I  myself  one  day  met 
a  troop  of  Kozaks  in  Odessa,  who  had  evidently 
just  returned  from  the  seat  of  war.     They  were 
laden  with  spoil.    Some  had  two  or  three  Turkish 
muskets  slung  round  their  shoulders ;  others  a 
profusion  of  pistols,  sabres,  and  other  small-arms. 
It  is  said  that  there  were  many  Russians  in  the 
Turkish  trenches  at  Varna,  and  upon  their  being 
taken  by  the  Russian  soldiers,  they  cried  out  to 
the  latter  in  Russ,  «  Don't  kill  us ;  we  are  Rus- 
sians ! "     <*  No,''  said  the  soldiers,  "  the  Russians 
are  there,"  pointing  behind  them,  and  instantly 
despatched  them. 

After  the  Russians  had  occupied  Varna,  the 
Emperor  Nicholas  addressed  an  autograph  letter 


^ 


894 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE   TO   VARNA. 


395 


to  Count  Vorontzof,  informing  him  of  His  Ma- 
jesty's intention  of  presenting  him  with  a  golden 
sword.*  The  following  is  a  translation  of  the 
letter :  — 

"  Count  Michel  Simonovitch  |, 
"  In  calling  you  for  a  short  time  from  the  go- 
vernment of  the  provinces  of  New  Russia  to  the 
command  of  the  corps  of  troops  charged  with 
the  siege  of  Varna,  I  was  convinced  that  your 
long  experience  in  the  art  of  war,  and  your 
exemplary  zeal  for  the  welfare  of  the  country, 
would  fully  justify  my  choice.  My  expectation 
has  been  fulfilled.  While  the  works  of  the  siege 
continued,  our  brave  warriors  were  always  and 
every  where  animated  by  your  example ;  and 
your  wise  measures  have  prepared  the  success 
which  has  crowned  their  fatigues.  For  the  pur- 
pose of  acknowledging  in  the  way  it  deserves, 
and  in  a  striking  manner,  all  the  value  which  I 
set  upon  these  new  services,  I  make  you  a  present 
of  a  golden  swordy  with  the  inscription  "For 
the  taking  of  Varna,"  which  may  remind  you 
unceasingly  of  this  event,  so  glorious  for  the 
Russian  arms,  and  which  may  be  to  you  a  testi- 
mony of  my  sincere  affection  and  of  my  gratitude. 

*«  I  am  your  affectionate 

"  Nicholas." 

This  was  not  the  only  mark  of  approbation 
which  Count  Vorontzof  received  for  his  conduct 

*  **  Argenteis  pugna  telis,  ac  omnia  vinces/' 
f  Simonovitch,  the  son  of  Simon. 


at  Varna,  for  the  Emperor  also  made  him  a  pre- 
sent  of  one  of  the  field-pieces  which  were  cap- 
tured during  the  siege,  which  was  taken  by  a 
charge  with  the  bayonet,  and  which  was  said  to  be 
the  last  obstacle  to  the  occupation  of  the  town. 
This  field-piece  was  brought  to  Odessa  on  the 
22d  of  October,  1828,  and  placed,  with  its  am- 
munition  waggon,  in  the  court-yard  of  the  Count's 
new  house,  opposite  to  the  grand  entrance.  An 
inscription  was  afterwards  engraved  upon  it,  to 
perpetuate  the  circumstances  under  which  it  had 
been  presented  to  His  Excellency. 

JUSUPH    PACHA. 

This  famous  or  infamous  personage  was,  as  be- 
fore observed,  the  second  in  command  at  Varna 
during  the  late  siege,  and  was  the  person  who 
delivered  up  that  fortress  to  the  Russians ;  and, 
there  can  be  no  doubt,  was  also  as  vile  a  traitor 
to  the  Sultan  and  his  country  as  ever  suffered 
decapitation  in  the  streets  of  Constantinople.  It 
being  unquestionable  that  Jusuph  Pacha  did  de- 
liver  up  Varna  to  the  Russians,  it  follows,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  that  he  must  have  been  a 
traitor ;  since,  being  only  second  in  command  of 
the  place  during  the  siege,  he  could  not  have 
surrendered  it,  consistently  with  his  duty,  without 
the  orders  or  consent  of  the  Capitan  Pacha,  who 
commanded.  But  it  is  well  known  that  the  latter, 
so  far  from  ordering  or  consenting  to  the  sur- 
render of  Varna,  on  the  contrary,  had  determined 
to  defend  it  to  the  utmost  j  and  that,  when  the 


k 


it 


! 


I)     i| 


396 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE    TO    VARNA. 


397 


town  was  even  in  possession  of  the  Russian  sol- 
diers, he  shut  himself  up,  with  a  few  devoted  fol- 
lowers, in  the  citadel,  resolved  to  hold  out  to 
the  last.  The  Emperor  of  Russia  permitted  this 
brave  man  to  return,  with  some  of  his  followers, 
to  the  Sultan,  in  the  expectation  that  he  would 
induce  the  latter  to  come  to  terms.  The  general 
opinion  among  the  Russian  officers  at  the  time, 
I  recollect,  was,  that  the  Pacha  was  a  fool  for 
availing  himself  of  the  Emperor's  permission,  and 
that  the  Grand  Signior  would,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  order  his  head  to  be  struck  off  upon  his 
arrival  at  Constantinople :  in  this,  however,  they 
were  mistaken ;  for,  instead  of  receiving  him  with 
displeasure,  the  Sultan  appointed  him  his  Grand 
Visier,  thus  giving  the  most  marked  proof  of  the 
approbation  with  which  he  regarded  his  conduct 
at  Varna. 

On  the  21st  of  October,  1828,  Jusupli  Pacha 
took  possession  of  the  house*,  in  the  Strada  Cher- 
sona  at  Odessa,  which  had  been  recently  occupied 
by  Count  Vorontzof,  the  Governor-general.  He 
was  accompanied  by  his  son  and  a  numerous 
suite.  His  harem  had,  of  necessity,  been  left  at 
Varna,  but  was  expected  to  follow.  He  was 
treated  with  the  greatest  attention  by  the  Rus- 
sian authorities ;  had  a  couple  of  sentinels  placed 
at  his  gates  (the  same  number  that  the  Governor- 
general  had  previously) ;  a  carriage  and  horses 
were  procured  for  him,  and  all  other  requisites 
supplied.    From  all  which  circumstances  it  may 

*  I  was  informed  that  500/.  per  annum  was  the  rent  of 
this  house. 


reasonably  be  supposed   that  the  Russians  re- 
garded him  as  having  conferred  important  be- 
nefits upon  their  country.     I  had  no  opportu- 
nity of  seeing  this   celebrated   personage   until 
January  ^d,  1829,  when  he  appeared  at  one  of 
the  soirees  of  the  Governor-general,  attended  by 
his  son,  his  treasurer,  and  another  individual  be- 
longing to  his   household.     Neither   the  Pacha 
nor  his  son  was  handsomely  dressed.    Each  wore 
a  red  cloth  skull-cap.  Having  a  small  plate  of  gold 
at  its  top,  from  which  hung  a  black  tassel  or  tail 
of  about  twelve   inches  in  length;  the  rest  of 
their  clothing  was  of  a  light  drab  colour,  and  ex- 
ceedingly plain.     Jusuph  Pacha  appeared  to  be 
about  forty-five  years  of  age,  stout,  and  good- 
looking,  and  seemed  to  be  in  the  enjoyment  of 
excellent  health  :  he  seated  himself  at  first,  with 
his  legs  folded  under  him,  on  one  of  the  sofas  at 
the  end  of  the  room.    His  son  (who  appeared  to 
be  about  twenty  years  of  age,  and  by  no  means 
intelligent,)  sat  in  a  chair  near  his  father.    At  a 
more  advanced  period  of  the  evening  the  Pacha 
rose,  and  took  a  chair  close  to  Count  Vorontzof; 
who  was  engaged  in  playing  whist,  and  appeared 
to  pay  attention  to  the  game.    The  Count,  and 
a  few  persons  who  were  presented  to  the  Pacha, 
conversed  with  him  by  means  of  the  Turkish  in- 
terpreter M.  Rhazes,  who   is  attached  in  that 
capacity  to  the  Governor-general  of  New  Russia. 
The  Pacha  and  his  son  retired  at  an  early  hour. 
On  the  19th  of  January,  the  Pacha  and  his  son 
were  again  present  at  the  Governor-generaPs,  at 


>-3 


|i 


!>■ 


398 


AUTHENTIC    PAHTICULARS 


RELATIVE   TO   VARNA* 


399 


a  ball  and  masquerade;  and  towards  the  con- 
clusion of  his  stay,  he  was  asked  his  opinion  of 
all  he  had  seen.  I  should,  however,  premise,  that 
among  those  of  the  fair  sex  who  danced  on  that 
evening  were  a  few  rather  good-looking  young 

ladies,  including  two  Greeks,  a  Madame  B ^ 

young  and  interesting,  several  approaching  the 
middle  age,  and  one  lady  about  sixty,  who  had 
scarcely  ever  ceased  dancing  during  the  whole 
of  the  evening.  With  respect  to  those  of  the 
middle  age,  the  Pacha  observed,  that  he  thought 
it  an  insult  to  the  Governor-general  that  such 
women  should  be  sent  to  dance  at  his  house,  (for 
it  appears  he  supposed  them  to  be  selected  by 
the  Master  of  the  Police,  and  to  be,  what  are 
denominated  in  Turkey,  dancing  girls;)  and  as 
for  the  old  lady,  he  asked  for  what  purpose  did 
she  dance  ?  for  he  could  not  conceive.  He  was 
then  questioned  as  to  what  he  thought  of  the 
beauty  of  the  females,  generally :  he  replied,  that 
he  considered  some  of  the  young  ones  comely 

enough,  but  that  Madame  B was  the  lady  at 

whom  he  should  fling  the  handkerchief.  This 
was  a  young  married  Russian  lady,  about  twenty 
years  of  age,  whose  two  professed  admirers  were 
as  well  known  as  herself  She  was  the  chief 
topic  of  conversation  during  the  winter  of  18^8-9 
in  the  Court  circle  at  Odessa.  With  respect  to 
the  masquerade,  the  Pacha  confessed  candidly 
he  did  not  like  it,  for  he  could  not  understand 
what  it  meant.  He  was,  moreover,  questioned 
as  to  what  he   thought  of  Count  Vorontzof 's 


house.  He  said,  it  was  a  very  fine  house,  the 
saloons  were  splendid,  and  the  Countess  pretty  ; 
"  but,"  continued  he,  "  is  there  only  one  ? " 
Upon  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  he  re- 
plied, «  Oh,  it  is  a  very  incomplete  house  in  this 
respect,  there  is  a  great  want  of  more  women." 

On  April   4th,    the  Pacha's  Circassian  wife^ 
aged  about  seventeen,  and  his   harem,  said  to 
consist  of  fifteen  persons,  arrived  at  the  quaran- 
tine of  Odessa.     The  Governor-general  ordered 
M.  Rhazes  to  announce  the  event  to  the  Pacha^ 
and  to  inform  him  that,  as  soon  as  the  quarantine 
regulations  would  permit,  his  wife  should  be  al- 
lowed to  come  ashore ;  that  till  then  she  must 
remain  in  the  quarantine,  but  that  he  might  at 
once  see  and  speak  to  her  in  the  conversation 
galley,  if  he  chose.  From  this  time  Jusuph  Pacha 
became  a  constant  visitor  at  the  Count's,  being 
generally  present  at  the  balls,  which  were  usually 
given  twice  a  week.     The  Countess  Vorontzof 
visited  the  Pacha's  wife ;  and  on  May  4th,  the 
latter  was  invited  by  her  ladyship  to  dinner.  This 
invitation  excited  a  good  deal  of  conversation, 
for  various  reasons.    All  the  guests  present  upon 
the  occasion  were   ladies;   and   all   the   ladies' 
maids  and  nursery  maids  in  the  house  were  or- 
dered  to  be  in  readiness  to  wait  at  table  that  day, 
as  no  male  persons  whatever  were  to  be  in  the 
way.     The  Countess,  a  short  time   before  the 
appointed  hour  for  dinner,  sent  her  carriage  to 
fetch  her  visitor ;  and  after  a  delay  of  about  half 
an  hour,  I  saw  it  return  with  the  green  silk  blinds 


iif  li 

I 


400 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE    TO    VARNA. 


401 


pulled  close  down  all  round,  and  a  huge  eunuch 
mounted  behind.  On  its  arriving  at  the  house 
door,  I  was  a  good  deal  amused  at  witnessing 
what  took  place.  The  eunuch  got  down,  and 
went  to  the  coach  door ;  but,  before  he  opened  it, 
looked  attentively  all  round,  to  see  if  there  were 
any  men  near :  there  happened  to  be  one  of  the 
Count's  footmen  waiting  for  the  obvious  purpose 
of  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  fair  Circassian,  at 
whom  the  eunuch  doubled  his  fist,  and  made 
many  furious  gestures  for  him  to  retire,  which 
at  first  the  former  either  did  not  understand,  or 
did  not  feel  inclined  to  obey ;  however,  at  last 
he  walked  away,  and,  the  coast  being  thus  per- 
fectly clear,  the  eunuch  suddenly  opened  the 
coach  door,  the  Circassian  came  out  with  her 
duenna,  and  was  hurried  by  them  both  into  the 
house.  She  was  muffled  up  round  the  head  and 
neck  completely  by  a  long  bandage  of  white 
linen,  a  small  space  only  being  lefl  for  the  eyes ; 
and  her  motions  were  so  quick  that  I  could  not 
distinguish  any  part  of  her  dress.  What  took 
place  during  the  dinner  I  know  not,  being,  of 
course,  proscribed  from  being  present ;  but,  after 
it  was  finished,  I  saw  the  Circassian  leave  pre- 
cisely in  the  same  manner  that  she  had  come, 
the  eunuch  displaying  the  same  precaution  both 
before  and  during  her  rapid  passage  from  the 
house  to  the  carriage,  the  blinds  of  which  had 
been  drawn  close  previously. 

Jusuph  Pacha  had  expressed,  shortly  after  his 
arrival  at  Odessa,  his  desire  of  conforming,  as  far 


as  possible,  with  the  customs  of  the  people  among 
whom  he  had  come  to  live ;  accordingly,  on  the 
occasion  of  Count  Vorontzof's  birthday,  he  sent 
him  a  congratulatory  epistle,  the  seal  of  which, 
bearing  a  Turkish  inscription,  had  been  covered 
with  leaf  gold.     He  also  bought  a  little  orna- 
mented box  at  one  of  the  shops  in  Odessa,  and 
sent  it  as  a  present  to  the  Count's  eldest  child, 
which  attention  was  well  received,  and  perhaps 
not  injudiciously  offered.   Tlie  Pacha  and  his  son, 
attended  by  six  or  seven   domestics,   used  fre- 
quently to  ride  out  on  horseback  in  the  town, 
presenting  a  curious  spectacle ;  and  the  servants 
(who  seemed  to  have  plenty  of  money)  might  be 
seen  every  day  riding  up  and  down  the  streets 
of  Odessa  in  hired  droshkies,  for  amusement, 
appearing  to  be  highly  delighted  with  this,  to 
them,   novel  species   of  carriage.     During    the 
more  early  period  of  his  sojourn  at  Odessa,  every 
body  talked  about  Jusuph  Pacha :  the  most  com- 
mon  questions  then  put  at  meeting  were,  "  Have 
you  seen  Jusuph  Pacha  ?  '*  «  What  do  you  think 
of  the  Pacha  ?  "  &c.     I  could  not  but  smile  often 
at  observing  the  groupes  of  ladies,  both  young  and 
old,  who  sought  the  hojiour  of  being  presented 
to  the  renegade,  and  of  exchanging  a  word  with 
him  through  the  interpreter,  at  the  balls  or  soirdes 
of  the  Governor-general ;  however,  in  time  the 
novelty  wore  off,  and  long  before  I  left  the  town, 
very  little  appeared  to  be  thought  of  Jusuph 
Pacha ;  indeed,  if  many  of  the  fairer  part  of  t!ie 
creation  there  were  pleased  with  him,  all  were 

D  D 


( - 


( 


't,* 


i!*  (1 


402 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE   TO    VARNA. 


403 


not ;  for  a  Russian  lady,  who  had  one  evening 
been  engaged  in  a  long  conversation  with  him, 
observed  to  me,  the  following  day,  that  she 
thought  him  a  "brute;"  whether  or  not  he  de- 
serves that  term  I  am  unable  to  determine,  but 

Madame  appeared  to  have   made  up  her 

mind  on  the  subject.  The  Quarterly  Review 
asserts  that  the  surrender  of  Varna  was  bought 
for  500,000  roubles  argent  comptanty  protection 
to  Jusuph  Pacha  and  his  followers,  and  an  esta- 
blishment in  the  Crimea. 

The  information  I  have  been  able  to  gather, 
during  my  residence  at  Odessa,  induces  me  to 
believe  this  statement  to  be  strictly  correct.  The 
latter  part  of  it  was  apparently  confirmed  by  a 
conversation  which  Jusuph  Pacha  himself  had 
one  evening  with  a  Russian  lady,  which  was  after- 
wards communicated  to  me.  The  Pacha,  under- 
standing that  the  lady  in  question  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  Crimea,  was  veiy  anxious  to 
ask  her  numerous  questions  concerning  it;  he 
wished  to  be  informed  of  the  nature  of  the  coun- 
try, the  climate,  the  houses,  &c.,  and  concluded 
by  asking  her  (at  which  she  felt  offended)  whether 
there  were  any  Turkish  women  there? 

The  Pacha's  interest  in  the  nature  of  the 
climate,  and  other  particulars  connected  with 
the  Crimea,  seems  certainly  to  corroborate  the 
statement  of  the  Quarterly  Review  as  to  the  es- 
tablishment to  which  it  alludes.  • 

*  I  should  not  be  astonished,  if  Jusuph  Pacha  should  find 
that  he  has  been  taken  in  by  the  Russians,  and  that  the 


The  following  trick,  which  was  played  upon 
the  Governor-general  one   evening,  by  two  of 
his  most  intimate  friends.  General  Leon  Narisch- 
kine  and  his  lady,  and  in  which  Jusuph  Pacha 
was  in  some  degree  concerned,  may  be  perhaps 
not  improperly  introduced  here,  and  may  afford 
some  amusement  to  the  reader.     The  Governor- 
general,  it  must  be  observed,  is  in  the  habit  of 
giving  public  dinners  usually  twice  a  week,  at 
which  all  military  officers  resident  in    Odessa, 
the  different  consuls,  all  respectable  foreigners, 
who  in  the  course  of  their  travels  are  known  to 
be  stopping  in  the  town,  and  the  upper  classes 
of  the  inhabitants  generally,  are  invited  in  turn. 
The  days  were  Monday  and  Friday,  and,  during 
the  last  winter,   one  of  these  dinners  was  fre- 
quently superseded  by  a  ball  and  soirde.     On 
one  of  these  occasions  the  Countess  Vorontzof 
made  an  early  call  upon  Madame  Leon  Narisch- 
kine,    who  was  uniformly  present   at  them,  if 
well,  for  the  purpose  of  inviting  her  to  come,  as 
usual,   to   the  ball   in   the  evening.     But   Her 
Ladyship  found  her  in  bed  complaining  of  severe 
indisposition,  and  was  informed  that  it  would  be 
impossible  for  her  to  accept  the  proffered  invi- 
vitation.     There  was  an  early  private  dinner  at 
Count  Vorontzofs,  General  Narischkine  being 


latter  should,  now  they  no  longer  require  his  services,  refuse 
to  fulfil  their  contract.  Such  conduct  is  of  every-day  oc- 
currence in  Russia,  both  on  the  part  of  government  and  of 
private  noblemen — **  Punka Jides:* 

D  D    2 


ii 


404 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE    TO   VARNA. 


405 


present,  who,  however,  retired  immediately  upon 
its  conclusion ;  observing,  that  he  left  his  lady 
so  ill  that  he  must  return  and  make  enquiries 
respecting  her.  The  ball  commenced  at  the 
usual  hour;  and  not  long  afterwards  M.  Rhazes, 
who  had  been  invited,  was  called  out,  it  being 
understood  that  Jusuph  Pacha  was  waiting  below, 
and  desired  to  see  him.  He  shortly  afterwards 
returned,  and  informed  the  Governor-general 
that  the  Pacha,  having  heard  there  was  to  be  a 
masked  ball,  had  himself  come  dressed  accord- 
ingly, as  well  as  his  son,  and  treasurer,  but  that  he 
could  not  think  of  coming  up  without  previously 
requesting  to  know  whether  His  Excellency 
thought  it  improper,  or  would  object  to  their  ap- 
pearing in  masks.  Count  Vorontzof  immediately 
requested  M.  Rhazes  to  return  to  the  Pacha,  and 
to  assure  him  that  so  far  from  his  having  any 
objection,  he  should  be  most  happy  to  see  him 
and  his  son  as  they  were.  These  preliminaries 
being  arranged,  the  Pacha,  his  son,  and  the 
treasurer,  were  ushered  up  stairs  into  the  grand 
saloon,  and  were  introduced  in  due  form  by 
M.  Rhazes  to  the  Count  and  Countess.  Upon 
the  usual  obeisances  being  passed  on  both  sides, 
the  Pacha  made  a  short  speech  in  the  Txirlxish 
language^  expressing  the  pleasure  he  felt  upon 
paying  his  respects  to  the  Governor-general  upon 
such  an  occasion,  which  M.  Rhazes  intei-preted. 
Count  Vorontzof  next  returned  a  neat  answer  in 
reply,  w  hich  was  in  like  manner  translated  to  the 
Pacha  J  after  which  the  respective  parties   se- 


parated and  joined   in  the  amusements  of  the 
evening.     But  it  soon  began  to  be  remarked  that 
Jusupli  Pacha  appeared  much  more  at  his  ease 
in  mask  than  he  had  been  accustomed  to  be  on 
all  former  occasions,  and  that  he  seemed  to  forget 
that  he  was  in  Russia,  and  not  in  Turkey ;  for, 
after  a  time,   he  deliberately  walked  up  to  the 
old  ugly  lady,  before  referred  to,  and  dropped 
his  handkerchief  before  her.     All  were  amazed, 
and   all   (except    the    lady  in    question)    were 
amused,  and  some  began  to  wonder  how  it  would 
end.     However  the  Pacha  quietly  retired  to  the 
sofa,  and  seated  himself  cross-legged  upon  it  in 
his  usual  manner.     He  was  now  eyed  closely  by 
most  in  the  room,  and  by  none  more  keenly  than 
the  Countess  Vorontzof,  who  speedily  began  to 
remark  that  the  Pacha  did  not  sit  as  upright  as 
he  was  wont  to  do ;  and,  also,  that  instead  of 
remaining  motionless,  as  usual,  he  was  in  a  per- 
petual twitter ;  and,  finally,  she  discovered  that 
instead   of  having  received  Jusuph   Pacha,    his 
son,  and  his  treasurer,  that  herself,  the  Governor- 
general,  and  the  whole  of  the  assembled  visiters, 
had  been  imposed  upon  by  General  and  Madame 
Leon    Narischkine,    who    had    personated    the 
Pacha  and  his  son,  accompanied  by  their  phy- 
sician, who  had   assumed  the  character   of  the 
treasurer.     It  is  hardly  necessary  to  observe  that 
Madame  Narischkine's   illness  was  feigned,  in 
order  to  afford  herself  and  her  husband  a  plausible 
excuse  for  being  absent,   and  thus  preventing 
any  suspicion  falling  upon  them  while  the  plot 

D  D  3 


\ 

1 


'I 


i 


\\ 


r*' 
.1) 


406 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


was  carrying  on.  Nor  need  I  add  that  the 
speecli  of  the  pseudo  Pacha  was  not  really  in 
the  Tnrlish  language^  but  consisted  of  mere 
gabble,  invented  at  the  moment,  but  which 
answered  as  well,  the  person  to  whom  it  was  ad- 
dressed, not  understanding  that  language, — the 
interpreter  was  also,  of  course,  a  principal  agent 
in  securing  the  success  of  the  deception.  The 
clothes  used  upon  tlie  occasion  were  the  identical 
dresses  in  which  the  Pacha,  his  son,  and  the 
treasurer  had  always  before  appeared,  and  had 
been  lent  by  them  for  the  purpose.  It  is  not, 
therefore,  sui-prising  that  the  plot  should  succeed 
completely  ;  but  I  much  question  whether  the 
English  will  admit  the  propriety  of  such  ex- 
hibitions at  the  public  assemblies  of  a  Governor- 
general. 

NOTICE    OF    ANTIQUITIES    BROUGHT    FROM    VARNA. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  March,  18'^9,  an 
employ^  was  sent  to  Varna  and  the  other  Turkish 
fortresses,  which  had  fallen  into  the  possession 
of  the  Russians,  to  copy  the  inscriptions  and 
collect  the  ancient  coins,  marbles,  and  other 
remains  of  antiquity,  for  the  purpose  of  being 
placed  in  the  Museum  of  Odessa ;  and  by  the 
Odessa  Gazette  for  May  2.  18^9,  it  appears 
that  in  consequence  the  person  charged  with 
the  foregoing  commission  had  transmitted  se- 
veral fragments  of  ancient  marbles,  containing 
different  figures  and  Greek  inscriptions ;  and  on 
the  thirteenth  of  the  same  month,  the  following 


' 


RELATIVE    TO    VARNA, 


407 


account  of  these  marbles  from  the  pen  of  Mr. 
Blaremberg,  the  director  of  the  Museums  of 
Odessa  and  Kertch,  a  gentleman  well  known  in 
the  learned  world  by  his  researches  as  an  an- 
tiquary, was  published  in  the  same  journal. 
The  ancient  marbles  sent  lately  to  His  Excel- 
lency Count  Vorontzof  are  as  follow  :  — 

No.  1.  —  A  sepulchral  monument,  with  figures 
and  inscriptions,  discovered  at  the  foot  of  the 
citadel  of  Varna. 

No.  2.  —  Monument  of  the  same  kind  taken 
from  the  exterior  wall  of  the  church  of  St.  Pa- 
rascovy  at  Varna. 

Nos.  3  and  7-  —  Fragments  of  tomb-stones 
without  inscriptions :  these  two  fragments  had 
been  let  into  the  external  walls  of  two  houses  at 
Varna. 

No.  6.  —  A  similar  monument  with  an  in- 
scription, found  in  the  cellar  of  a  house  at  Varna. 

No.  4. — A  bas-relief  in  fragments  representing 
jEsculapius  and  Hygeia  holding  in  the  hand  a 
rhyton.*  Behind  the  goddess  are  seen  two 
figures  of  women  followed  by  an  infant.  This 
bas-relief  fixed  in  the  wall  of  a  private  house  at 
Varna  appears  to  have  been  an  ea^  voto,  oflTered 
to  ^sculapius  afler  the  cure  of  a  sick  person. 

The  inscriptions  of  funeral  monuments  bear 
the  name  of  a  couple  (husband  and  wife),  re- 
presented upon  the  bas-relief,  with  the  word 
XAIPETE  (Rejoice  ye.) 

No.  9. —  Fragment  of  a  bas-reliej^  upon  which 

*   A  horn,  serving  the  purpose  of  a  drinking  vessel. 

D  D    4- 


\  " 


M 


I    i,: 


i 


408 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


is  represented  the  upper  part  of  the  figure  of  a 
Dioscurus,  having  the  head  covered  with  the 
pilus,  holding  by  the  bridle  a  horse,  of  which  can 
only  be  seen  a  part  of  the  neck,  and  of  the  head. 

No.  8. — Fragment  of  an  inscription,  offering 
the  commencement  of  a  psaphism  or  decree, 
emanating  from  the  council  (or  senate)  and  the 
people  (THI  BOTAHI  KAI  TQIAHMfll),  and 
by  which  there  had  been  decreed  honours  to  a  citi- 
zen of  Epidamnus  (Dyrrachium,  now  Durazzo, 
in  Illyria). 

This  marble,  in  demonstrating,  by  the  com- 
mencement of  the  decree  of  which  w^  are  making 
mention,  the  existence  of  an  ancient  city  upon 
the  present  site  of  the  city  of  Varna,  conducts 
us  to  the  solution  of  the  problem,  as  to  the  pre- 
sumed identity  of  the  ancient  0AHS20S  with 
modern  Varna :  this  fhigment  was  found  at  the 
base  of  a  stair-case,  in  a  private  house  at  Vaina. 

No.  5, — Large  pedestal  in  white  marble,  with 
an  mscription,  formerly  having  served  for  the 
base  of  a  statue,  of  a  citizen  of  the  name  of  Hero- 
sodon,  the  son  of  Pharnagos,  chief  of  the  town, 
as  well  as  of  the  commonality  or  society  of  the 
five  cities:  APHANTA  THS  nOAEOS  KAI- 
APHANTA  TOYKOINOY  TH2  HENTAnO- 
AE02.  This  inscription,  mutilated  in  the  lower 
part,  states  the  union  of  five  cities,  of  which  it 
appears,  that  Odessus  (Varna)  was  the  centre  ♦, 

*  The  form  of  the  letters  of  this  inscription  in  the  original 
may  lead  it  to  be  referred  to  the  second  centtiry  of  the  Chris- 
tian era. 


r 

I 


RELATIVE    TO    VARNA. 


409 


and  which  might  have  been  formed,  like  the 
alliance  of  the  Hanseatic  towns,  by  the  cities 
and  the  ports  placed  in  a  line  on  the  western 
shore  of  the  Pontus  Euxinus,  in  the  follow^ing 
order:  Tdmi  (Kustendgi),  Callatia  (Mangalia), 
Odessus  (Varna),  Mesembria,  and,  finally,  Apol- 
Ionia  (now  Sizopolis).  This  particular  enhances 
the  importance  of  the  discovery  of  these  ancient 
marbles,  and  gives  rise  to  the  hope,  that  further 
examinations  will  produce  results  not  less  inter- 
esting. 

Some  Account  of  the  Circumstances  connected  witJi  the 
Banishment  to  Siberia^  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas^  of  a 
British  Subject,  who  had  acted  as  the  Medical  Attendajit 
of  the  Capitan  Pacha  duriiig  the  Siege  of  Varna, 

After  the  preceding  observations  upon  Varna, 
I  am  naturally  led  to  mention  the  following  in- 
stance of  despotism  towards  a  British  subject, 
who,  happening  to  be  taken  prisoner  of  war  upon 
the  surrender  of  that  fortress  to  the  Russians, 
while  attiiched  to  the  Capitan  Pacha  as  his  me- 
dical  attendant,  was  sent  by  the  Emperor  Nicho- 
las to  Sibera.  As  the  following  relation  will  be 
transcribed,  almost  verbatim,  from  notes  made  at 
the  time,  it  will  be  perhaps  better  to  preserve  the 
form  of  the  journal  as  originally  WTitten. 

Dec.  26th,  1828.  — As  I  was  sitting  in  my 
room  this  aflernoon  reading,  I  was  surprised  by 
the  entrance  of  one  of  the  junior  officers  of  police, 
who,  making  a  profound  bow,  handed  me  a  large 


1" 


V     i 


\l 


•  \ 


410 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


unsealed  letter,  written  upon  very  coarse  paper, 
the  direction  being  in  English^  which  (uj)on 
opening),  to  my  great  concern,  I  found  to  be 
written  by  a  Mr. ,  w  ho  was  a  medical  stu- 
dent in  London,  when  I  left  it,  and  who  I  had, 
upon  several  occasions,  seen  at  the  house  of  his 
brother-in-law,  a  lecturer  on  midwifery. 

The  following  is  a  coj)y  of  the  letter,  which, 
for  the  sake  of  authenticating  the  facts  as  much 
as  ])ossible,  I  subjoin  :  the  original  is  in  my  pos- 
session :  — 


«  Police-house,  26th  Dec. 


"  Dear  Doctor, 


"  It  is  with  pain  that  I  address  you  thus,  in 

misfortune  :  I  am  brother-in-law  to of , 

and  medical  attendant  upon  the  Capitan  Pacha, 
made  prisoner  of  war  in  Varna.  After  the  cap- 
ture of  the  town,  I  was  confined  in  a  magazine 
under  ground, — I  became  afflicted  with  ague, — 
every  article  belonging  to  me  was  purloined.  In 
a  state  of  extreme  weakness  I  was  ordered  to 
Odessa.  I  have  scarcely  a  shirt  to  my  back.  I 
fell  into  the  hold  of  the  ship  during  the  voyage, 
and  have  severe  pain  in  my  lumbar  region,  — 
from  the  lightness  of  my  dress,  I  have  also  rheu- 
matic pains  in  my  lower  extremities.  Vermin 
swarm  over  me.  Good  God  !  a  gentleman  to  be 
in  such  a  state  ;  conceive  tlicn  my  situation.  I 
know  not  a  soul  here ;  nor  can  I  be  understood : 
—  do,  for  God's  sake,  come  to  relieve  me,  as  in 


RELATIVE    to   VARNA. 


411 


a  day  or  two  I  am  ordered  into  the  interior ; 
where  on  the  road  I  must  die,  if  sent  in  this 
state. 

"  Yours, 
"  My  dear  Doctor, 

"  I  am  at  the  Police,  where  "  ^^^  misery, 

"  the  Commandant  is.  "  W.  '. 

**  Turn  over, 

"  It  is  the  kindness  of  the  Commandant,  that 
has  permitted  me  to  address  you.  Do  answer, 
dear  Doctor:  —  I  have  not  a  farthing ;  —  in  this 
state  of  health,  —  disease,  —  vermin,  —  I  must 
perish  in  a  few  days,  if  not  relieved." 

I  lost  not  a  moment  in  complying  with  the 
wish  of  the  unfortunate  writer ;  and  knowing  full 
well  that  prisons  in  Russia  are  hermetically 
sealed  against  all  who  are  not  furnished  with  au- 
thority, I  immediately  went  to  the  Governor- 
general,  read  to  him  the  letter  I  had  received, 
and  stating  to  His  Excellency  what  I  knew  of 
the  individual  to  whom  it  referred,  requested 
permission  to  visit  him  whenever  I  chose.  The 
Count  acceded  to  my  desire,  and  directed  one 
of  his  clerks  to  accompany  me  to  the  Master  of 
the  Police,  and  to  signify  to  him,  that  I  was  to 
be  allowed  the  privilege  in  question.  We  imme- 
diately drove  to  the  house  of  the  latter,  and 
luckily  finding  him  at  home,  upon  explaining  the 
object  of  our  visit,  he  accompanied  us  to  the 
prison.  Here,  in  a  damp  and  abominably  filthy 
ground-floor  room,  which  was  now  unlocked  to 


» 1 

1 1 


1 1- 


1 


412 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE    TO    VARNA. 


413 


;l 


us,  we  found  the  object  of  our  search,  and  three 
other  prisoners,  lying  almost  exhausted  with  fa- 
tigue, cold,  want  of  food,  and  ill  usage,  upon  a 
low  wooden  shelf,  extending  along  one  side  of 
it,  which,  thinly  spread  over  with  dirty  hay, 
served  them  for  a  bed.  Upon  our  entering,  they 
slowly  rose,  and  I  shall  never  forget  the  picture 
of  horror  I  then  witnessed.     I  should  not  have 

know  n  Mr. ,  but  he  at  once  recognised  me : 

his  feelings,  at  our  meeting  under  such  dej)lor- 
able  circumstances  on  his  part,  may  be  easily 
imagined,  but  cannot  be  described :  even  now% 
I  shudder  at  the  remembrance  of  the  WTctched 
scene. 

He  was  wrapped  round  with  an  old  English 
camblet  cloak,  underneath  which  were  the  tat- 
tered remnants  of  a  Turkish  jacket  and  trowsers : 
he  had  no  linen  of  any  kind,  was  much  ema- 
ciated, and  fiom  having  been  long  deprived  of 
the  means  necessary  for  shaving  or  washing,  had 
a  most  unseemly  appearance.     He  complained 
much  of  the  harsh  treatment  exercised  towards 
him  ever  since  he  had  been  made  prisoner,  and 
begged  to  know  whether  I  could  do  any  thing  for 
him.     As  soon  as  he  had  become  more  collected, 
I  began  to  make  enquiries  with  respect  to  the 
circumstances  which  had   occasioned  his  beinff 
at  Varna,  &c. ;  and  from  his  answers,  learned  that 
soon  after  I  left  England,  the  surgeon  of  a  sliip, 
bound  to  Constantinople,  happening  to  fall  sick 
on  the  eve  of  her  departure,  the  captain  offered 
a  handsome  some  of  money  to  any  young  medical 


man  who  would  supply  his  place  during  the 
voyage ;  that  anxious  to  travel,  and  having  been 
assured  the  opportunity  might  be  exceedingly 
advantageous,  he  immediately  accepted  the  situ- 
ation, and  accordingly  proceeded  in  the  vessel  to 
Constantinople,  and  was  there  at  the  time  when 
the  battle  of  Navarino  took  place ;  he  was  then 
induced  to  land  in  Turkey,  where  he  was  told  a 
good  deal  of  money  might  be  obtained  by  the 
exercise  of  his  profession  ;  and  shortly  after,  he 
entered  into  the  service  of  the  Capitan  Pacha, 
who  commanded  at  Varna,  as  his  medical  attend- 
ant,  and  had  only  readied  that  place  three  days 
before  tiie  siege  began.     I  have  already  men- 
tioned, that  three  other  prisoners  were  confined 
with  him  :  these  I  found  to  be  a  Mr.  Jackson, 
also  a  medical  man,  and  a  British  subject,  being 
born  of  British  parents  in  Turkey ;  an  apothe- 
cary, whose  name  and  nation  I  did  not  hear ; 
and  a  person  who  was  dragoman  or  interpreter 

to  Mr .  These  gentlemen,  prisoners  of  war, 

were  allowed  by  the  Russian  government  only 
25  kopecks,  or  Q^d.  per  day,  to  subsist  upon, 
although  they  held  the  rank  of  officers ;  and  in 
the  Russian  service,  the  medical  attendant  of  a 
commander-in-chief  would  hold  at  least  the  rank 
of  major  in  the  army.  Having  promised  to  use 
any  influence  or  power  I  might  possess  in  pro- 
curing the  alleviation  of  his  present  miserable 
condition,  and  leaving  him  a  trifling  sum  of 
money  for  immediate  wants,  I  took  my  departure, 
with  the  assurance,  that  I  would  revisit  him  the 


414 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


l> 


following  day.  As  soon  as  I  returned  to  the 
house  of  Count  Vorontzof,  I  again  sought  His 
Excellency,  wlio  happened  to  be  disengaged,  and 
pleaded  the  cause  of  my  unfortunate  protege 
as  forcibly  as  I  could.  I  represented  to  him,  the 
hardship  of  making  Mr.  —  a  prisoner  of  war, 
as  he  had  been  merely  a  medical  attendant,  and 
had  not  borne  arms  at  all  against  the  Russians ; 
the  injustice  of  his  being  allowed  only  two-pence 
halfpenny  per  day  (a  sum  which  it  was  j)erfcctly 
evident  he  could  not  subsist  upon),  when  lie  was 
entitled  to  be  ranked  as  an  officer,  and  to  have 
an  allowance  as  such ;  and  the  barbarity  of 
putting  him  and  his  fellow-prisoners  in  the  com- 
mon gaol,  and  never  letting  them  stir  out,  except 
under  a  guard  to  buy  their  dinner  ;  it  being  well 
known,  that,  independent  of  such  severe  restric- 
tions, they  were  effectually  prevented  from  escap- 
ing, even  if  they  were  inclined  to  make  the 
attempt.  My  arguments,  however,  did  not  seem 
to  have  much  effect,  though  the  Count  promised 

he  would  do  what  he  could  for  Mr. ;  but  he 

added,  "The  Emperor  is  exceedingly  prejudiced 
against  these  prisoners,  and  so  angry  with  them, 
that  I  dare  7iot  make  any  application  in  their 
favour.  His  Majesty,  somehow  or  other,  at 
Varna,  conceived  the  idea  that  they  were  en- 
gineerSy  and  not  medical  meyi^  and  was  not  to  be 
persuaded  out  of  this  belief)  although,  had  he 
chosen,  he  might  at  once  have  decided  the  ques- 
tion, by  ordering  Sir  James  Wylie,  who  was 
there,  to  ask  them  some  medical  questions  j  but 


RELATIVE    TO   VARNA. 


415 


he  would  not,  and  was  furious  against  them."    I 

heard,  from  an  eye-witness  at  Varna,  that  Mr 

was  placed  in  a  tent  near  that  of  the  Commander- 
in-chief,  and  when  he  had  been  kept  during  the 
whole  day  without  the  means  of  satisfying  his 
hunger,  he  was  indebted  at  night  for  some  bread 
to  the  humanity  of  a  deserving  person,  whose 
name,  for  obvious  reasons,  I  shall  not  mention, 
and  who  had  been,  tUl  then,  afraid  of  acceding  to 
his  reiterated  requests  for  food,  under  the  dread 
of  compromising  his  own  safety,  by  exciting  the 
anger  of  the  Emperor.  I  heard  also  that  His 
Majesty  had  personally  applied  opprobrious  epi- 
thets  to  the  prisoner,  for  having  been  with  the 
Turks. 

Dec.  27th.  —  I  visited  the  prison  again  this 
morning,  taking  with  me  some  clothing  and  linen 

for  Mr. ;  and  having  obtained  permission 

to  do  so,  requested  the  Master  of  the  Police  to 
allow  his  going  to  one  of  the  baths  in  the  town, 
a  droshki  having  been  previously  hired  for  that 

purpose.      During   my   visit   to-day,    Mr 

wished  to  learn  if  I  was  acquainted  with  the 
name  of  the  place  he  was  to  be  sent  to ;  adding, 
that  the  other  prisoners  said  they  were  all  to  be 
despatched  to  Siberia.  I  asked  the  Master  of 
the  Police,  in  consequence,  what  was  their  des- 
tination ;  when  lie  informed  me  that  Mr. 

was  to  be  forwarded  to  Perme  in  Siberia!  the 
rest  to  other  and  less  distant  places.  I  was  thun- 
derstruck at  this  intelligence ;  which,  however, 
at  the  time,  I  withheld  from  the  unfortunate  in- 


(• 


416 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


RELATIVE    TO   VARNA. 


I 


dividual  to  wliom  it  referred.  I  asked  also  when 
tiiey  were  to  commence  their  respective  journeys, 
and  was  answered  that  the  day  of  their  departure 
was  at  present  fixed  for  the  1st  of  January.    Mr. 

then  told  me  that  he  had  also  heard  they 

were  to  be  sent  to  their  destination  on  foot,  and 
declared  that  it  would  be  physically  impossible 
for  him  to  perform  the  journey  in  that  manner, 
on  account  of  the  rheumatism  contracted  tlirough 
the  hardships  which  he  had  recently  undergone; 
and  that  some  of  his  companions  were  in  a  worse 
condition  than  himself.  He  earnestly  begged 
that  his  supplication  to  be  allowed  to  go  in  some 
other  manner,  if  possible,  might  be  made  known 
to  the  Governor-general,  and  I  willingly  agreed 
to  be  its  bearer.  Having  given  him  all  the  con- 
solation I  could,  I  left  the  prison  and  returned 
home.  I  once  more  endeavoured  to  direct  Count 
Vorontzof's  attention  to  the  wants  of  the  pri- 
soners and  the  alleviation  of  their"  sufferings, 
making  him  fully  acquainted  with  the  bad  state 
of  health  in  which  they  all  were.  I  received 
many  promises  from  His  Excellency ;  but  it  will 
soon  be  shown  that  of  these,  the  majority,  if  not 
all,  were  never  attended  to.  Wiiether  the  Count 
did  not  choose,  or  did  not  dare,  to  assist  them,  I 
shall  leave  for  others  to  decide.  It  is  certain, 
however,  that  his  promises  were  never  fulfilled.  . 
Dec.  28th.  —  I  met  the  Master  of  the  Police 
this  morning  at  the  Governor-general's,  and  had 
some  conversation  with  him  about  the  prisoners. 
He  said  the  Civil  Governor  lias  now  given  orders 


417 


hat  they  shall  be  allowed  to  walk  about  in  the 

befoie  the  favour  of  stirring  out  once  a  day  in 
order  to  purchase  their  dinners  at  the  Sa" 
accompanied  by  a  soldier.     Now  that  a  foreign"; 

.?  rr  buff  r''""^^'-^-^  ""^^  ^^'^^^ 

IS  made  ,  but,  had  no  one  interfered,  the  huma 
nuy  of  the  Civil  Governor  would  never  W 
suggested  such  a  step ,  nor  would  any  Te  have 
enquired  whether  they  were  starving  or  not     To 

&  Mr  7t  ''°""''  ''^^'"^  -Led  a  J: 
ne^a^  ^'•,'^""J^^""'  Petitioned  the  Governor-ge- 

Xt  J.  '^""''  '■"'1"^^*'"^  *hat  he  may  be 
allowed  to  remam  in  Odessa  until  the  spring  as 
his  health  will  not  permit  him  to  underS'the 
journey  he  ,s  ordered  to  perform  duringthe  rigour 
of  wxnte.,  without  danger  to  his  life,  ^nthf af- 
ternoon I  visited  all  the  prisoners  :  they  are  in 
much  better  spirits.  Hope,  notwithstandingmy 
assurances  to  the  contrary,  induces  them  7oll 

chalet  h??r'^^  *^  ^^^^'"P'^^'^  ^  benefici^ 
Change  in  their  distressing  situation.  Mr.  Jackson 

addressed  me  during  this  visit,  desiring  that  I 

would  examine  into  the  state  of  his  health  a„d 

report  upon  it  accordingly  to  the  GovernJr-ge- 

reouest  toT  ^  ''*"''"  ^"'"^  ^  r^^ni:,on^^  this 
mv/vw  ^Tb  ""^  ''^SSed  him  to  sanction 
my  examming  all  the  prisoners,  and  to  allow  the 
postponement  of  their  journey  during  the  prlsent 
severe  weather..  His  ExceUency  s^a  d/m  2 
examine  them  if  I  chose,  and  added,  thaTi  I 

•  About  ten  degrees  below  zero. 

£  £ 


418 


AUTHENTIC    FABTICULABS 


ll 


k 


thought  them  too  ill  to  set  off  at  present,  he 
would  permit  them  to  remain  «*  a  Jew  days 
longer ;"  but  in  that  case  he  should  not  allow 
them  to  walk  about  the  town  as  they  had  done, 
nor  even  to  leave  the  prison !  and  that  it  was  not 
in  his  power  to  grant  any  further  delay,  nor  to 
make  any  alteration  whatever  in  their  respective 
routes. 

Dec  29th.  —  Paid  my  usual  visit  to  the  prison. 
The  apothecary  begged  that  I  would  endeavour 
to  procure  liim  permission  to  proceed  to  his  des- 
tination otherwise  than  on  foot,  Mr.  Jackson 
also  solicited  my  aid  in  obtaining  the  boon  already 
asked  for  him,  namely,  that  of  being  allowed  to 
stop  at  Odessa  during  the  winter.  I  informed 
the  latter  of  the  Governor-general's  determina- 
tion, as  expressed  to  myself  yesterday,  and  there- 
fore advised  him  to  entertain  no  expectations  of 
a  farther  delay  being  acceded  to.  I  allowed  his 
health  was  impaired;  but  as  I  could  not  hope 
that  a  few  days  would  make  any  material  im- 
provement in  it,  and  the  Count  had  declared 
that  he  could  not  grant  a  longer  period,  it  was 
my  opinion  that  he  had  better  make  up  his  mind 
at  once  to  depart  than  to  run  the  risk  of  dis- 
pleasing the  local  authorities  by  wishing  to  stop, 
aaad  consequently,  perhaps,  be  sent  off  afterwards 
in  a  worse  plight  than  I  believed  was  then  con- 
templated. I  again  spoke  to  Count  Vorontzof 
in  favour  of  these  unfortunate  persons;  urged  the 
impossibility  of  their  ever  reacliing  their  destina- 
tioms  on  foot  under  their  impaired  state  of  health. 


RELATIVE   TO   VARNA, 


419 


and  during  the  extreme  cold  we  experienced ; 
and  begged  him  to  order  that  they  should  be 
conveyed  ,n  kibitkas.     I  moreover  again  remon- 
strated upon  the  pitiful  allowance  of  25  kopecks 
per  day.  which,  he  must  know,  they  could  not 
sWM  T"^  *'  ""^'•^^P^^tfully  suggested  that  it 
should  be  increased;  particularly  as  they  ought 
to  be  considered  as  officers.     I  was  informed^. 
terwards  His  Excellency  had  directed  that  they 
shou  d  be  conveyed  in  kibitkas,  and  also  that  they 
should  be  recognised  as  officers,  and  allowed  a 
rouble,  or  IQd.  per  day. 

Dec.  30th About  eleven  o'clock  I  drove 

down  to  the  prison,  where  I  found  Messrs 

and  Jackson  alone,  their  companions  in  misfor- 
tune  having  gone  into  the  town.  I  communi- 
cated the  pleasing  intelligence  that  they  were  to 
be  conveyed  in  kibitkas  by  post-horses,  and  that 
the  allowance  would  be  increased  to  a  rouble  a 
^ay.  They  made  many  gratifying  acknowledg. 
nients  for  my  endeavours  to  serve  them ;  and 
Mr.  Jackson,  as  I  was  retiring,  obsei-ved  he  had 

«clt'^i^'  "T"  '"r  "'■"'''  "'"'  "  «"""«»  ^'o^e.  '-ho  is 

Ssfit  p    '1^"'"'°''  '"'^'^'^  "P°°  W-J^  "-"d,  of 
Icks  or  ^  "^  "''"  ^"  P'*"^"'-^'*  *■"  1  '""ble  30  ko- 

to find  W  VI  '"T"^'  """"^'^  ^  ^°^^^'  or  5rf.  per  day 
wouW  'r'''?"\  ^''^  '"^^  -"-PPy  gentlemen,  who 
would  be  grossly  cheated  in  making  their  purchase,   and 

fee"?  lS  R  '""  *"  """"S"^*  °''««^'«'  «ft«r  this  single 
who  a  J^ffi'"""  government  grants  to  prisoners  of  w!r. 
who^a,«  office,^,  one  half  the  pittance  allotted  to  its  ow.! 

E  E    ^ 


420 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


l> 


V  ^' 


a  favour  to  request  of  me.     "  There  is,**  he  said, 
"  a  considerable  sum  of  money  belonging  to  me 
at  the  Quarantine  here,  which  I  am  now  about 
to  take  possession  of.     In  Turkey  I  have  a  wife 
and  children,  who  I  shall,  doubtless,  never  again 
see ;  for  I  cannot  reasonably  expect,  in  my  state 
of  ill  health,  to  survive  the  hardships  and  toils 
which  are  preparing  for  me.  When  I  am  no  more, 
I  should  like  them  to  possess  this  money ;  it  may 
save  them  from  want  (at  least  for  a  time)  when 
I  can  no  longer  assist  them.    You  are  an  English- 
man,— the  country  of  generous  feelings;  and  your 
conduct  towards  my  unfortunate  fellow-prisoners 
and  myself  leads  me  to  place  the  greatest  confi- 
dence  in  you.     Take  charge,  I  entreat  you,  of 
this  money ;  and  in  the  event  of  my  death,  oh ! 
transmit  it  to  my  widow  and  fatherless  children." 
I  was  deeply  affected  by  his  situation  and  ad- 
dress, but  felt  that  I  was  not  likely  to  have  the 
power  of  performing  the  service  he  asked.     I 
represented  to  him,  therefore,  my  ineligibility 
for  such  purpose,  notwithstanding  the  sincere 
wish  I  had  of  seiTing  him,  on  account  of  my 
own  ill  health ;  the  uncertainty  as  to  whether  I 
should  remain  at  Odessa,  it  being  my  duty  to 
accompany  the  Governor-general ;  and  my  per- 
fect unacquaintance  with   commercial   transac- 
tions ;  —  in  conclusion,  begging  to  decline  the 
office,  advising  him,  at  the  same  time,  to  leave 
the  money  in  the  hands  of  some  foreign  merchant 
of  known  respectabiHty  at  Odessa  ;  or,  what  ap- 


I  *1^~iF^  -  ^^ 


RELATIVE   TO   VARNA. 


421 


peared  to  me  yet  more  advisable,  to  place  it  in 
the  custody  of  the  English  Consul-general.* 

Jan.  2d,  1829.  — I  told  Count  Vorontzof  that 
the  prisoners  had,  up  to  the  present  momenty  only 
received  25  kopecks  per  day,  and  asked  him 
whetlier  he  intended  them  to  have  the  rouble,  as, 
I  understood,  he  had  ordered  some  days  ago.  His 
Excellency  replied,  certainly,  that  they  should 
have  it  from  the  day  of  their  arrival  at  Odessa. 

Jan.  4th.  —  This  morning  early  I  received  the 
following  letter  from  Mr. : 

"  Sunday,  Police-house. 

"  Dear  Doctor, 

"  We  have  orders  to  depart  to-morrow.  Con- 
ceive, then,  how  my  feelings  are  relieved.  It  is 
to  the  Crimea  we  are  ordered  ;  comparatively  no 
great  distance ;  nay,  by  sea  but  a  day's  sail.  I 
have  but  this  instant  received  intimation  of  news 
so  grateful  after  my  severe  sufferings.  But,  my 
dear  Doctor,  I  am  unacquainted  witli  the  nature 
of  this  change  of  affairs.  Could  I  see  you  this 
evening,  or  any  time  to-day  when  convenient  ? 
I  write  this  in  haste  (excuse  me),  you  know  not 
in  what  a  joy.  I  feel  as  a  man  reprieved  from 
sentence  of  death.  Believe  me,  I  can  never  forget 
your  kind  intercession  ;  for  had  not  the  Almighty 

*  Upon  informing  Count  Vorontzof  afterwards,  that  I  had 
advised  Mr.  Jackson  to  place  his  money  in  the  hands  of  the 
EngHsh  Consul-general,  His  Excellency  said,  I  had  done 
wrong,  and  ought  to  have  recommended  him  to  entrust  it 
to  M.  Marigni,  who  would  have  placed  it  in  the  Russian 
Junds  for  him. 

E  E   3 


492 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


*. 


I 


\     li 


sent  this  (for  I  conceive  it  is  from  your  inter- 
cession alone) .*     Then  believe  me  to 

remain, 


**  Yours,  so  very  much  indebted. 


<c 


99 


Upon  reading  this  letter  I,  at  the  moment, 
experienced  much  satisfaction  ;  but,  on  consider- 
ation, felt  convinced  that  the  writer  must  be 
labouring  under  some  serious  mistake,  as  there 
had  not  been  time  to  communicate  with  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, and  to  receive  an  answer  in  return.  I 
determined,  therefore,  first  to  make  enquiry,  in 
the  proper  quarter,  as  to  the  real  state  of  the  case, 
and  then,  upon  going  to  the  prison  for  the  pur- 
pose of  ascertaining  what  could  have  given  rise 
to  the  pleasing  anticipations  of  my  correspondent, 
and  if  they  were  unfounded,  of  disabusing  him- 
self and  his  fellow-prisoners  on  the  subject.  I 
suspected  some  underhand  work,  and  determined 
that  they  should  not  be  deceived  if  I  could  pre- 
vent it.  Having  therefore  supplied  myself  with 
the   necessary  information,  I  proceeded  to  the 

prison.     Mr.  at  once  began  expressing  his 

thanks  for  the  happy  result  of  mi/  intercession; 
but  I  stopped  him,  by  observing  that  he  was 
under  some  inexplicable  mistake,  for,  with  great 
concern,  I  had  to  inform  him  that  his  destination 
was  unchanged,  and  I  begged  to  know  how  the 

*  There  is  obviously  omitted  here  what  he  had  intended 
as  the  conclusion  of  the  sentence,  —  no  doubt,  from  the  tu- 
mult of  feelings  under  which  the  poor  fellow  laboured  while 
he  wrote. 


RELATIVE   TO   VARNA. 


423 


contrary  idea  could  ever  have  been  entertained 
by  him.  He  then  told  me,  that  some  officer  had 
been  this  morning  at  the  prison,  who  informed 
him,  and  his  companions  in  misfortune,  that  they 
were  to  go  to  the  Crimea.  Who  this  scoundrel 
was  I  never  happened  to  know,  nor  can  I  con- 
ceive any  motive  for  his  conduct  except  that  of 
savage  cruelty.  I  found,  from  my  enquiry,  that 
the  rouble  a  day  had  never  yet  been  given  to  the 
prisoners,  notwithstanding  the  reiterated  promises 
of  Count  Vorontzof  that  they  should  have  that 
sum,  and  the  assurances  of  his  clerk  M.  Scher. 
binin,  that  the  orders  to  such  effect  had  been 

actually  issued.     I  informed  Mr that  he 

would  set  off  on  the  following  day ;  and  leaving 
with  him  what  I  thought  might  be  useful  on  the 
road,  retired,  my  heart  misgiving  me  as  to  his 
future  fate,  while  I  bade  him  farewell. 


The  foregoing  relation  naturally  suggests  some 
observations.  It  appears  that  a  British  subject 
was  condemned,  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  to 
banishment  in  Siberia ;  and  but  for  the  intercession 
and  remonstrances  of  another  British  subject^ 
would  have  been  sent  there  on  foot,  a  distance 
of  2640  versts,  or  I76O  miles,  in  the  severity  of 
winter.*  And  what  was  his  crime?  what  offence 
had  this  individual  committed  against  the  Russian 
government  to  merit  the  punishment  which  ig 

♦  The  thermometer  being  about  the  time  of  his  setting  off, 
even  at  Odessa,  about  10  below  zero. 

£  £  4 


n 


424 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS 


awarded  to  the  most  atrocious  criminals  ?  I  have 
been  enabled  to  discover  none,  unless  it  was  a 
crime  to  have  acted  as  the  medical  attendant  of 
the  Pacha  who  commanded  at  Varna,  and  who, 
faithful  to  the  Sultan  and  his  country,  would  not 
surrender  that  fortress  to  the  Russians,  as  Jusuph 
Pacha  had  basely  done,  for  money.  This  I  be- 
lieve to  have  been  "  the  rub ;"  for  I  enquired 
particularly  of  Count  Vorontzof  if  Mr.  ■  was 
guilty  of  any  offence  by  which  he  had  rendered 
himself  amenable  to  the  criminal  law  of  Russia ; 
but  he  confessed  he  knew  of  none,  nor  did  I  ever 
hear  of  any  one  who  pretended  to  suppose  that 
this  had  been  the  case.  Why  then  was  he  treated 
with  such  barbarity?  I  know,  from  eye-wit- 
nesses, all  that  took  place  at  Varna  in  reference 
to  him.  He  himself  informed  me  that  he  was 
stripped,  and  robbed  of  the  little  property  he 
had;  and  when  thus  rendered  destitute,  after 
great  sufferings  at  Varna,  he  was  sent  to  Odessa, 
and  lodged  in  the  common  gaol,  with  an  allow- 
ance of  only  two-pence  halfpenny  per  day  for 
his  subsistence,  and,  at  last,  was  hurried  off  to 
Siberia !  And  why  was  he,  alone,  sent  to  that 
horrid  region,  when  his  companions  were  ordered 
to  places  less  distant  and  less  frightful  ?  I  can 
form  no  conjecture,  but  from  the  flict  that  he  had 
been  attached  to  the  Capitan  Pacha,  who  ought 
to  have  excited  the  respect  of  the  Russians  instead 
of  their  malignity.  ♦«  But,"  says  the  Governor- 
general  of  New  Russia,  "  the  Emperor  thought 
he  was  an  engineer :  " — be  it  so  j  —  His  Majesty, 


RELATIVE    TO    VARNA. 


425 


however,  thought  the  other  prisoners  were  also 
engineers!  he  was,  therefore,  not  more  guilty 
than  they  in  that  respect.     And  even  admitting 
they  were  engineers,  was  that  any  reason  why 
they  should  be  sent  to  Siberia  like  felons  ?    Had 
not  the  Russians  engineers  as  well  as  the  Turks, 
and  English  engineers  too  ?     But  they  were  not 
engineers  j  and  if  the  Emperor  were  ignorant  of 
this  fact,  he  might  very  easily  have  ascertained 
It,  and  also  whether  they  had  a  right  to  be  con- 
sidered as  medical  men,  by  ordering  Sir  James 
Wylie  to  have  examined  them.     In  the  suppo- 
sition that  it  was  not  actually  known  at  Varna 
what  they  really  were,  we  may  find  some  little 
extenuation   of  the   conduct   pursued  towards 
them ;   but  when   they  arrived  at  Odessa,  and 
when,  consequently,  there  was  leisure  for  enquiry 
if  the  Emperor  were  angry,  as  the  Governor- 
general  stated,  because  he  imagined  Mr . 

to  be  an  engineer,  surely  it  was  the  duty  of  that 
officer  to  have  undeceived  His  Majesty  on  this 
head  ;  and  if  he  had  done  so,  one  would  wish  to 
believe  that  the  Autocrat  might  have  been  in- 
duced to  revoke  his  order  for  sending  him  to 
Siberia.  But  it  may  be  said,  perhaps,  the  Go- 
vernor.general  was  afraid  to  take  any  measures 
calculated  to  dicit  the  truth,  under  the  appre- 
hension  of  kindling  his  Imperial  master's  dis- 
pleasure against  himself  for  at  all  interfering  in 
the  matter.  Should  this  be  allowed,  then  we 
have  a  proof  of  the  real  state  of  things ;  —  in 
short,  of  the  horrible  despotism  existing  in  Russia. 


426 


J  * 


AUTHENTIC    PARTICULARS,  ETC. 


I  must  confess,  after  having  myself  ascertained 
that  the  unfortunate  prisoners,  while  at  Odessa, 
never  had  the  rouble  a  day  paid  them  which  waa 
so  unequivocally  and  so  often  promised,  I  much 
doubt  whether  they  were  sent  in  kibitkas  at  all, 
or  by  post-horses ;  for  this  latter  indulgence,  like 
the  rouble,  was  only  promised  by  the  same  per- 
son. Should  this  doubt  be  well  founded,  their 
sufferings  are  now  unquestionably  at  an  end ;  for 
the  unqualified  opinion  which  I  expressed  to  the 
Governor-general  at  the  time,  respecting  them, 
is  still  unchanged,  namely,  that  if  sent  on  foot, 
they  would  drop  by  the  road-side  before  the  ter- 
mination of  the  first  week  of  their  journey. 


1 


/ 


427 


CHAR  IX. 

RETURN   TO   ENGLAND. 

LEAVE     ODESSA BARRIER     OF     TIRASPOL.  —  CUSTOM- 

HOUSE   SEARCH.  —  COLONEL  HOFFMAN  AND  M.  BOULGOF- 

SKOI.    —    TIRASPOL.  —  THE      DNIESTER.    —    TUMULI.  

postmaster's  EXTORTION GREGORIOPOL.  —  GOVERN- 
MENT OF  PODOLIA.  —  BALTA ROGUERY OLGOPOL 

MORE        EXTORTION.    —    TOULTCHINE BRATSLAF.  — 

INFAMOUS    CONDUCT     OF     THE   POSTMASTER   AND    SECRE- 
TARY.     —     ODESSA        POST       OFFICE         FALSE        MARCHE 

ROUTE CORRECT     ROUTE.   —  DETENTION    AT    A    POST 

STATION.  —  COMPELLED  TO    TAKE    SEVEN   HORSES.  —  GO- 
VERNMENT OF    VOLHINIA  —  ZASLAF  —  OSTROG BIBLE 

FIRST  PRINTED  IN  THE  SCLAVONIC  LANGUAGE JEWISH 

EVASION.  —  LE  GENERAL.  —  LOG  ROADS.  —  DOUBNO.  — 
BARRIERS  OF  RADZIVILOF.  —  PASSPORT  DEMANDED.^ 
SEARCH  AT  THE  CUSTOM  HOUSE.  —  VEXATIOUS  REGULA- 
TION8  ON  LEAVING  THE  RUSSIAN  FRONTIERS.  —  EXTOR- 
TION  OF  THE  CUSTOM-HOUSE  OFFICERS,  AND  UNWARRANT- 
ABLE   DETENTION.  —  NEUTRAL   GROUND.  —  GALLICIA. -^ 

BRODY.  —  VILLAINOUS       SERVANT M.    MICHALECK 

AUSTRIAN  DILIGENCE. — LEMBERG EILPOST,   OR  MAIL 

COACH  —  REGULATIONS     CONCERNING.  —   MORAVIA.  

OLMUTZ.   —  BRUNN.    —    PUNISHMENT     OF    FORGERY.  

VIENNA.  —  VALETS    DE    PLACE LINTZ.    ^  PECULIAR 

HEAD    DRESS.  —  BAVARIA.  —  LIBERAL     POEMS    OF    THE 
KING    OF    BAVARIA. —  NURNBURG. — HOUSE   OF    ALBERT 

DURERS.  —  FRANCONIA. WURTZBURG.  —  FRANKFORT 

SUR  LE  MEIN MAYENCE.  —VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  RHINE. 

COLOGNE.  —  CIVILITY  OF  PRUSSIAN  CUSTOM-HOUSE  OFFI- 
CERS,   COMPARED  WITH  THE  BEARISH  CONDUCT  OF   THB 


428 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND, 


429 


RUSSIAN.  —  ANECDOTE  OF  THE    LATTER.  —  AIX  LA  CHA- 

PELLB.    —    BRUXELLES.   WATERLOO.   —    OSTENDE. 

REACH  LONDON. 

Wednesday,  June  10.  1829.  —  The  padaroshna 
had  been  despatched  last  night  to  the  post-house 
with  the  money  for  the  first  stage,  and  the  liorses 
ordered  to  be  ready  at  five  o'clock  this  morning ; 
but  the  postilion  finding  that  they  were  required 
for  the  physician  and  not  for  the  Governor- 
general,  did  not  choose  to  bring  them  until 
after  six,  in  spite  of  several  messages  sent  to 
quicken  his  motions ;  and  even  after  his  arrival  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  at  least  was  occupied  in 
attaching  them  to  the  vehicle  destined  to  convey 
me  from  the  land  of  despotism.  All  being  at 
length  arranged,  I  took  my  seat,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded through  the  town  at  a  moderate  rate, 
which  was  accelerated  on  reaching  the  surround- 
ing Steppe,  and  shortly  afterwards  we  arrived  at 
the  barrier  of  Tiraspol,  the  extreme  boundary  of 
the  liberties  of  Odessa  in  this  direction.  Here 
we  were  stopped  by  the  officers  of  the  DouanCy 
and  every  package  examined.  I  must,  however, 
do  them  the  justice  to  say,  that  although  the 
search  was  strict,  yet  it  was  conducted  civilly, 
and  in  a  manner  very  different  from  that  in 
which  I  have  been  told  examinations  are  often 
made  at  this  barrier  when  even  the  various  arti- 
cles of  linen  belonging  to  ladies  are  held  up 
separately,  and  shaken  for  the  satisfaction  of  the 
examiner,  that  notliing  contraband  is  concealed 


in  or  about  them.  This  vexatious  strictness  has 
been  adopted  lately  in  consequence  of  the  fol- 
lowing occurrence  :  —  M.  Boulgofskoi,  the  Di- 
rector of  the  Customs,  (who,  I  must  observe,  is 
considered  to  be  very  vigilant  in  the  discharge 
of  his  duties,)  had,  upon  application  being  made 
to  him,  given  orders  that  the  carriage  of  a  per- 
son of  rank  should  be  allowed  to  pass  the  barrier 
without  examination.  He  was  induced  to  do  this 
being  convinced  that  the  travellers  had  nothing 
contraband  with  them,  and  that  their  object  in 
applying  for  the  indulgence  was  merely  to  avoid 
the  delay  and  inconveniences  of  the  usual 
searcli.  Colonel  Hoffman,  however,  the  com- 
manding officer  of  the  gendarmes  stationed  in 
Odessa,  having  learned  that  a  carriage  had  been 
allowed  to  pass  the  Douane  unexamined,  imme- 
diately  despatched  a  private  report  of  the  occur- 
rence to  St.  Petersburg,  and,  in  consequence, 
M.  Boulgofskoi  received  a  very  sharp  reprimand 
from  the  Minister  of  Finance  (under  whose  ju- 
risdiction he  is  placed),  at  which  he  was  so  hurt 
that  it  was  said  he  even  contemplated  the  resig- 
nation of  his  appointment ;  at  any  rate,  it  has 
occasioned  him  to  issue  orders  that  in  future  the 
most  rigorous  search  shall  be  made  in  every  in- 
stance. My  padaroshna  was  demanded  here 
but  not  my  passport.  The  Steppe,  with  the 
exception  of  a  slight  ascent  or  two,  continues 
with  unvarying  monotony  of  surface,  all  the  way 
from  hence  to  the  next  station,  Dalneskaia,  a 
distance  of  fifteen  versts,  and  nothing  was  to  be 


4 


430 


BETURN   TO  ENGLAND. 


fV 


seen  by  the  road-side  but  a  small  quantity  of 
com,  and,  perhaps,  a  dozen  stunted  trees. 
Upon  arriving  at  the  post-house,  I  found  horses ; 
and  having  paid  for  the  next  stage  in  advance, 
as  is  the  rule,  I  soon  recommenced  my  journey. 
After  proceeding  some  distance,  we  passed  a 
very  large  tumulus  to  the  left  of  the  road  ;  and 
at  the  twelfth  verst,  I  observed  three  camels 
grazing  on  the  Steppe,  two  of  them  being  laden, 
the  other  not,  while  the  party  to  whom  they  be- 
longed were  seated  upon  the  ground  taking 
reft-eshments,  the  whole  group  presenting  a  truly 
Oriental  appearance.  I  was  here  rather  sur- 
prised  to  find  that  the  post-horses  had  no  shoes ; 
but  whether  the  custom  is  peculiar  to  the  south 
of  Russia  only,  I  know  not,  never  having  before 
made  any  observation  on  the  subject.  After 
having  performed  twenty-five  versts,  we  arrived 
at  Hederim,  the  post  station.  On  requiring 
horses  the  postmaster  allowed  that  there  were 
plenty ;  but  when  I  offered  to  pay  for  the  next 
stage  at  the  rate  of  twenty-seven  versts  (accord- 
ing to  my  marche  route)^  he  affirmed  that  the 
distance  was  twenty-eight.  Having  given  him 
what  he  asked,  he  then  demanded  a  rouble, 
<*  drink-money ;  **  knowing  this,  however,  to  be 
an  imposition,  and  being  in  doubt  whether  I 
had  not  already  paid  more  than  he  had  a  right 
to  require,  I  refused  to  accede  to  this  additional 
claim,  upon  which  a  good  deal  of  altercation 
ensued,  and  I  was  detained  some  time.  We  had 
hardly  commenced  our  journey  again,  when  the 


RETUEN  TO   ENGLAND. 


431 


postilion  had  to  get  down  to  arrange  afresh  the 
ropes  by  which  the  carriage  in.  Russian  posting 
is  always  attached  to  the  horses.     The  perpe- 
tual stoppages  thus  occasioned  are  most  annoy- 
ing, and  to  nothing  but  national  perversity  can 
be  attributed  the  employment  of  rope  as  harness 
in  a  country  where  leather  is  extremely  cheap. 
In  this  part  of  my  journey  I  observed  several 
storks ;  and  although  I  did  not  regard  them  with 
that  veneration  which  the  Turks,  it  is  said,  en- 
tertain for  tliis  species  of  bird,  yet  contrasted  as 
they  were  with  the  most  tiresome  sameness  in 
the  surrounding  scenery,   I  felt  some  pleasure 
when  they  made  their  appearance.     The  post- 
master at  the  next  station,  upon  being  paid  for 
two  versts  beyond  the  number  contained  in  my 
marcJie  route^    namely,     for  twenty-nine,  with 
which  demand,  in  order  to  avoid  being  detained, 
I  complied,  allowed  me  to  proceed  once  more, 
and  the  termination  of  this  stage  brought  me  to 
Koutschourganskaia,  where  we  changed  horses, 
and  then  set  off  for  Tiraspol,  a  further  distance 
of  twenty-seven  versts,  at  which  place  we  arrived 
about  five  o'clock  p.  m.     As  we  approached  this 
town  the  meanderings  of  the  Dniester,  with  its 
numerous   and   thickly  wooded    islands,    came 
into  view.     The  scenery  is   exceedingly  rich; 
and  having  scarcely  seen  a  tree  for  the  last  six- 
teen months,  I  was  afterwards  astonished  at  the 
admiration  and  deUght  with  which  I  contem- 
plated  them ;  and  I  could  not  but  remember 
how  often,  and  how  truly  it  has  been  said,  that 


r 


432 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


433 


|.         I 


■ 


we  only  learn  correctly  to  appreciate  advan- 
tages or  gratifications  after  having  been  deprived 
of  them.  Four  or  five  rather  large  tumuli  were 
passed  during  this  stage;  and  the  only  objects 
met  upon  the  road  were  caravans  of  oxen  laden 
with  wood,  which  is  cut  in  this  neighbourhood 
and  conveyed  to  Odessa,  where  it  fetches  a  very 
high  price  for  fuel.  Tiraspol  is  a  small  town  in 
the  government  of  Cherson,  the  chief  place  of 
a  district  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Dniester, 
nearly  opposite  to  Bender,  a  fortress  of  Bessara- 
bia. It  was  built  in  1795,  when,  after  tlie  cap- 
ture of  Otschakof,  a  line  of  fortifications  along 
the  Dniester  had  been  commenced  by  the  Rus- 
sian government.  The  streets  of  Tiraspol,  like 
those  of  all  modern  towns  in  Russia,  are  dispro- 
portionately wide,  and  a  few  of  the  buildings 
devoted  to  public  establishments  are  large  and 
handsome ;  but  the  habitations  generally  merit 
no  other  appellation  than  that  of  paltry,  miser- 
able huts.  It  is  said  to  contain  350  houses,  and 
two  churches.  Its  inhabitants  are  a  mixture  of 
Russians,  Moldavians,  Greeks,  and  Armenians, 
the  latter  being  the  most  numerous.  About  a 
verst  from  the  town  there  is  a  fortress  composed 
of  earth,  containing  a  garrison  placed  there  to 
defend  the  passage  of  the  river,  and  to  protect 
the  frontier  before  the  conquest  of  Moldavia. 
I  staid  about  half  an  hour  in  Tiraspol ;  and 
after  taking  some  refreshment  at  the  post-house, 
recommenced  my  journey,  having  never  stopped 
except  to  change  horses  since  I  left  the  barrier 


1 1 

I 


m 


in  the  morning.     A  short  stage  of  fifteen  versts 
took  us  to  Malaiestcha,  where  the  post-master, 
as  usual,  required  payment  for  a  greater  distance 
than  indicated  by  my  marche  route ;  however, 
to  avoid  tlie  inconveniences  of  delay,  I  paid  what 
he    asked:    but,    as  in  the    instance   which   I 
have  already  alluded  to,  my  acquiescence  only 
paved   the  way  for   the   further   demand  of  a 
rouble  drink-money  —  to  which  extortion,  how- 
ever,  I  persisted   in   refusing   to  submit;  and 
after  being  detained  some  time,  succeeded  in 
leaving  the  place.     This  kind  of  conduct  on  the 
part  of  the  post-masters  being  what  I  had  uni- 
formly  to  experience   during  the  remainder  of 
my  journey  in  Russia,  I  shall  omit  in  future  to 
mention  it  except  when  exceedingly  flagrant ; 
warning  the  reader,  however,  that  he  must  not 
conclude   I   was  enabled  to   avoid  imposition, 
because  I  do  not   complain.     After  travelling 
twenty-one  versts  we    reached  Gregoriopol,    a 
small  town  in  the  district  of  Triaspol,  upon  the 
left  bank  of  the  Dniester,  chiefly  peopled  with 
Armenians,  who  emigrated  from  Bender,  Ismail, 
Akerman,  &c.     The  inhabitants,  notwithstand- 
ing the  quantity  of  ground  which  was  granted  to 
them  for  cultivation,  are  almost  entirely  occu- 
pied in  commercial  pursuits,  so  that  a  great  part 
of  their  lands  remain  untilled.  The  name  of  Gre- 
goriopol is  derived  from  St.  Gregory,  the  first 
apostle  of  Christianity  in  Armenia.     On  com- 
pleting the  next  stage  also  of  twenty-one. versts, 
we  arrived  at  Novo  Doubossari,  another  small 

F   F 


434 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


435 


1^ 


^  \ 


town  in  the  district  of  Triaspol.  It  has  but  a 
mean  appearance,  though  said  to  contain  between 
300  and  400  liouses.  After  leaving  Novo  Dou- 
bossari  at  22^  versts  we  arrived  at  Yagorlic. 
The  following  places  were  then  successively 
reached ;  namely,  Vamskaia,  Lipetzkaia,  and 
Balta,  after  one  stage  of  18^,  and  two  of  23 
versts.  We  had  now  quitted  the  government  of 
Cherson,  and  entered  that  of  Podolia;  a  cir- 
cumstance of  which  I  was  soon  reminded,  by 
being  told,  upon  my  arrival  at  Balta  about 
eleven  o'clock  a.m.  of  Thursday,  June  1 1th,  that 
I  could  have  no  post-horses  until  my  padaroshna 
had  been  signed  by  the  Commandant.  I  accord- 
ingly despatched  my  servant  with  it  to  his  house  ; 
and  after  a  delay  of  about  an  hour  he  returned 
with  the  required  signature.  I  was  now  at 
liberty  to  have  horses,  and  accordingly  made  a 
second  and  more  successful  demand  for  them. 
Balta  is  a  tolerably  large  and  extremely  pretty 
town,  the  chief  place  of  a  district.  Upon  its 
site  formerly  existed  the  frontiers  of  Poland 
and  Turkey.  The  little  river  Codema,  running 
through  the  town,  separates  it  into  two  parts; 
one  of  which  belonged  to  the  former  state,  and 
the  other  to  the  latter.  The  Polish  j)aii:  is  well 
built;  and  the  inhabitants,  who  are  chiefly  en- 
gaged in  commerce,  enjoy  comparative  afflu- 
ence :  that  which  was  included  among  the 
Turkish  possessions,  at  present  forms  the  fau- 
bourg. The  houses  in  this  quarter  are  con- 
structed so  that  the  roofs  project  much  beyond 


the  front  walls,  being  supported  by  poles  or  pil- 
lars ;  a  balcony  screened  from  the  sun  is  thus 
formed,  in  which  the  inhabitants  sit  and  smoke 
their  pipes  after  the  Oriental  fashion. 

Trees  are  planted  in  the  streets,  which  are  ex- 
tremely  narrow,  and  the  roads  very  bad,  appear- 
ing to  be  chiefly  formed  by  branches  of  trees 
thrown   across  them.     The   horses   being  now 
put  to,  and  all  accounts  settled  with  the  post- 
master, I  started  once  more.     The  streets  were 
filled  with  people,  and  a  great  deal  of  business 
seemed  going  on.     The  weather  was  fine,  and 
the  roads  good  after  leaving  the  town ;  in  con- 
sequence,    we    perfomed   the    next    seventeen 
versts  sooner  than  I  had  expected,  and  arrived 
at  Perama.     The  post-master  at  this  station  first 
endeavoured  to  cheat  by  affirming  the  length  of 
the  next  stage  to  be  greater  than  it  was ;  and 
when  he  found  that  I  knew  the   real  number 
of  versts,    he  said   there   were    no  horses.      I 
replied,   "  Very  well ;  I  must  see."     He  then 
assured  me  those  in  the  stable  were  engaged 
for  a  courier,  but  that  I  should  have  them  upon 
giving  him  some  drink-money.     This  I  refused, 
and  insisted  upon  knowing  who  the  courier  was ; 
when,    being  perhaps   afraid  that  his  conduct 
would  be  represented  in  the  proper  quarter,  he 
let  me   have   horses ;    but  I  had  lost   a   good 
deal  of  time  by  his  persevering  attempts  to  de- 
ceive    and    impose  upon  me.     However,    this 
man  was  by  no  means  the  worst  of  his  frater- 
nity, as   will   be   seen  presently.     A  drive   of 

F  F  2 


43'i 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


437 


U 


n 


fifteen  versts  brought  me  to   Olgopol,  a  small 
district  town  placed  upon  the  left  bank  of  the 
river  Savranka,  which  discharges  itself  into  the 
Boug.     There  are  in  this  neighbourhood  several 
manufactories  of  saltpetre  and  extensive  distil- 
leries.     On    requiring   horses,    I    received    an 
intimation  from  the  post-master  that  I  must  take 
six,  as  the  roads  were  very  bad.     Having  found 
them  good  as  far  as  this  place,  I  did  not  be- 
lieve   his   statement,    and   therefore    answered, 
"  You  may  put  as  many  as  you  choose  or  think 
necessary,  but  I  will  only  pay  for  the  number 
specified  in  the  padarosfma."     The  postmaster 
then  said  I  should  have  none.     In  this  way  I 
was  detained  for  at  least  an  hour;  when  he  had 
the  condescension  to  allow  me  to  depart  with 
only  four  horses,  the  proper  number.    Soon  after 
leaving   this   place   it  began  to    rain    heavily; 
and,  as  the  roads  were  formed  of  a  clayey  soil, 
we  had  some  difficulty  in  performing  the  next 
stage  of  twenty-one  versts,  which   terminated 
at  Zabokezyezka.     I  wished  to  set  off  again  im- 
mediately ;  but  my  servant  was  determined  not 
to  do  so,  and  persuaded  the  postmaster  to  re- 
fuse horses    till  daylight.     Finding  it  was  not 
likely   that  my    orders   for  the    immediate   re- 
sumption of  the  journey  would  be  attended  to, 
and  knowing  also  that  the  roads  had  become 
exceedingly  bad,  in  consequence  of  the  heavy 
rain  lately  fallen,  I  agreed  to  stop  for  four  hours, 
after  which  I  was  assured  the  horses  should  be 
ready.    I  sent  the  ser\  ant  into  the  post-house  to 


sleep;  and,  having  previously  had  the  lamps 
lighted,  remained  in  my  calash  during  the  time 
devoted  to  rest. 

Friday,  June  12th — At  the  hour  fixed,   half 
past  four  o'clock  a.  m.,  finding  no  preparations 
made  for  our  departure,   I  went  into  the  house 
and  aroused  my  servant,  as  well  as  the  post- 
master, and,  after  a  good  deal  of  delay,  got  the 
horses,    six  in  number,  which  the  man  of  au- 
thority  declared    to    be    absolutely   necessary, 
harnessed  to  the  calash ;  when,  having  been  com- 
pelled to  pay  for  them  all,  I  set  off'  once  more, 
and,  after  a  most  unpleasant  stage  of  25^  versts, 
reached  Sarvintzy,  where  I  was  again  obliged  to 
take  and  to  pay  for  six  horses,  although  they  did 
not  appear  at  all  necessary.     The  next  stage  of 
twenty-six  versts  brought  us  to  Toultchine,  a 
town  in  the  district  of  Bratslaf :  it  contains  an 
elegant  mansion,     surrounded    by   magnificent 
gardens ;  these  and  the  town  itself  belonging  to 
the  family  of  Pototskii.      The  same  occurrences 
took  place  at  the  post-house  here  that  I  had  so 
often  met  with  previously,  and   I  accordingly 
left  this  place  also  with  six  horses,  and,  after 
travelling  seventeen  versts,  arrived  at  Bratslaf. 
During  this   stage  I  met  a  numerous  detach- 
ment of  cavalry  and  baggage,  on  their  march  to 
the  seat  of  war.     Bratslaf  is  situated  on  the  river 
Boug,  and  is  the  chief  place  of  a  district :  the 
Poles  took  it  in  1654  from  the  Kozaks  of  the 
Ukraine;  but  in  I672  it  was   retaken  by  the 
Turks,  who  lost  it  again  three  years  afterwards, 

F  F  3 


»! 


438 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


439 


fi 


n\ 


being  finally  restored  to  its  mother  country  by 
the  last  addition  of  the  Polish  provinces  to 
Russia.  I  arrived  at  tliis  place  about  eleven 
o'clock  A.  M.,  and,  on  applying  for  liorses,  was 
immediately  answered,  that  I  must  wait  until  the 
following  morning,  as  there  were  none.  I  said 
I  should  do  no  such  thing,  and  sent  my  servant 
into  the  stables  to  ascertain  whether  this  state- 
ment was  true;  when  he  returned,  saying  they 
were  full  of  horses.  Having  mentioned  this  to 
the  post-master,  he  declared  that  they  had  all 
just  been  bled,  and  that  he  would  allow  none 
of  them  to  be  harnessed  for  at  least  six  hours. 
His  next  story  was,  that  they  were  retained 
for  an  aid-de-camp  of  the  Emperor,  and  other 
couriers.  At  last  he  allowed  there  were  horses 
disengaged,  but  added,  that  I  must  take  six; 
which  number  was,  after  a  delay  of  two  liours 
and  a  half,  put  to  the  calash,  the  post-master  de- 
manding a  sum  for  them  greater  than  what  all 
would  amount  to  if  charged.  I  refused  to  give 
it,  observing  that  I  was  not  bound  to  pay  for 
more  than  four.  Upon  this  he  got  into  a  furious 
passion,  ordering  the  animals  to  be  unharnessed, 
and  led  back  into  the  stable,  which  was  im- 
mediately done.  Finding  remonstrances  of  no 
avail,  I  now  agreed  to  pay  the  sum  demanded ; 
but  the  insolent  rascal  refused  and  walked  away, 
and  I  did  not  ultimately  leave  this  station  until 
past  three  o'clock,  nor  witliout  paying  all  that  he 
chose  to  exact ;  and,  upon  my  endeavouring 
to  register  a  complaint    in   the  book  kept  for 


that  pui-pose  at  the  post-house,  the  secretary 
actually  prevented  me  forcibly  from  so  doing, 
by  laying  both  his  hands  upon  it. 

Shortly  after  leaving  this  den  of  thieves,  we 
were  ferried  over  the  Boug  on  a  raft,  moved 
across  the  river  by  means  of  a  cable  stretched 
from  one  bank  to  the  other.  An  unpleasant 
journey  of  seventeen  versts  brought  us  to  Ne- 
merof;  and  another,  of  twenty-one,  to  Voro- 
novitza.  Here  the  individual  who  accompanied 
me  in  the  capacity  of  servant,  but  whose  atten* 
tion  to  my  orders  was  always  proportioned  to 
the  degree  in  which  they  suited  his  convenience, 
began  telling  me  that  the  roads  were  danger- 
ous,  and  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  go  on 
during  the  night.  However,  I  desired  him  to 
order  the  horses  to  be  brought  out.  He  went 
into  the  stable,  as  I  thought,  for  that  pui^pose ; 
but  in  a  short  time  returned,  declaring  that 
the  postilions  were  determined  not  to  proceed 
till  the  morning.  I  remonstrated,  but  this  had 
no  effect ;  he  had  evidently  persuaded  them  to 
act  according  to  his  wishes ;  and,  as  I  saw  that 
mine  would  be  unavailing,  I  sent  the  fellow 
into  the  post-house,  and  passed  the  night  again 
in  the  calash. 

June  13th. —  At  four  o'clock  this  morning, 
instead  of  three  as  I  had  ordered,  six  horses 
were  ready,  and  I  recommenced  my  journey 
towards  Vinnitza;  arriving  there,  after  travel- 
ling twenty-two  versts,  at  about  half  past  six  a.  m. 
JWe  stopped  here  about  an  hour,  and  proceeded 

F  F    4 


^ 


440 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


441 


•  again  with  six  horses  a  distance  of  28^  versts, 
which  brou«*ht  us  to  Lityn,  a  small  district 
town.  The  next  station,  16^  versts  from  Lityn, 
was  Diarkofski ;  and  this  was  succeeded,  at 
'20j  versts  farther,  by  Liticheff.  Here  the  Master 
of  the  Police  came  up,  and  demanded  to  see  the 
padaroshna,  —  I  suspect  out  of  mere  curiosity, 
or  to  show  his  authority.  We  next  arrived  at 
Medjibodge,  after  a  stage  of  15^  versts.  Here 
is  a  curious  ancient  fortress,  originally  belong- 
ing to  the  Turks,  captured  from  them  by  the 
Poles,  and  since  ceded  to  Russia:  it  is  now 
converted  into  a  school.  At  sixteen  versts 
from  hence  we  reached  Markofsky ;  and  at  172 
•from  the  latter,  Proskuroff,  where  I  arrived 
at  midnight.  Upon  asking  for  horses,  I  was 
abused,  and  flatly  told  that  I  should  have  no7ie 
till  morning.  Having  by  this  time  had  so  much 
experience  as  to  be  well  aware  how  utterly 
inefficient  argument  and  expostidation  would 
prove  among  the  class  of  beings  with  whom  I 
had  to  deal,  I  did  not  waste  much  time  in  the 
employment  of  either,  but  inclosed  myself  in 
the  calash,  and  endeavoured  to  rest.  Soon  after 
it  was  light  I  sent  my  servant  to  demand  horses 
again,  and  he  returned  with  the  information  that 
there  were  many  in  the  stable,  but  that  he  did 
not  know  whether  we  should  get  any.  At  last 
the  secretary  came  ;  and  something  being  said 
about  the  route  from  hence  to  Brody,  he  ob- 
served  that  we  must  go  by  Staro  Constantinof, 
Doubno,  &c.    Knowing  that  this  was  different 


from  the  route  with  which  I  had  been  furnished 
by  the  post-office  at  Odessa,  I  told  him  there 
must  be  some  mistake  ;  but  he  persisted  in  his 
assertion,  adding,  that  the  road  I  mentioned  had 
been  discontinued  for  more  than  five  years,  and 
that  there  were  no  longer  any  post-horses  kept 
upon  it ;  and  concluded  by  saying  that  /  should 
go  in  no  other  way.  .  At  the  time,  I,  of  course, 
thought  he  was  attempting  an  imposition,  by 
making  me  go  the  longer  road,  as  I  could  not 
then  suppose  it  possible  for  the  Post-office  at 
Odessa  to  have  given  a  false  marche  route  ;  but 
there  being  no  one  to  whom  I  could  apply  for 
assistance  or  advice,  I  thought  it  better  to  sub- 
mit, and  I  afterwards  found  that  his  statement 
was  perfectly  true.  As  I  cannot  but  consider 
that  this  error  must  have  been  designedly  made 
at  the  Post-office,  for  the  purpose  of  adding  to 
the  difficulties  of  my  journey,  I  shall  here  give 
the  false  route  that  I  received,  and  the  correct 
one  by  which  I  afterwards  travelled. 

ODESSA    POST-OFFICE   MARCHE    ROUTE. 


Zapardinsky 

Chapelefka 

Kortchofka 

Tchougourzova 

Zagaoutsza 

Kremeutz 

Verba 

Radziviloff 


20  verstSi 

15 

22* 

22* 

27* 

27 

21i 

20i 


•  I  can  find  no  such  names,  or  any  similarly  sounding 
names,  on  the  great  Map  of  Russia  of  the  Etat  Major. 


W2 


RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 


CORRECT  MARCHE  ROUTE. 


Zapardinsky 

Staro  Constantinof 

Brycula 

ZaslafF 

Bielotina 

Ostrog 

Tulcza 

Varkovitchi 

Doubno 

Verba 

Kameno-Verboskeio 

RadzivilofT 


-  20  versts. 

-  21 

-  25i 

-  251 
'  18 

-  13 
.  13 

-  20 

-  18 

-  19i 

-  10^ 

-  21 


When  the  horses  were  ready,  (six  in  number, 
for  I  never  was  allowed  to  depart  with  less  after 
I  had  once  been  compelled  to  take  so  many,) 
the  secretary  had  the  assurance  to  tell  me  that 
if  I  cUd  not  give  something  extra  (besides  pay- 
ing for  the  six),  I  should  not  go  even  then,  as 
a  courier  rnig/U  arrive.  This  demand  I  absolutely 
refused  to  agree  to,  and,  after  an  adtlitional 
delay  of  ten  minutes,  I  was  allowed  to  set  off, 
having  been  detained  six  hours  at  this  station. 
Oh!  the  advantages  of  Russian  over  English 
posting ! — the  cheapness,  and  the  comfort  attend- 
ing  it ! — "  Six  times  cheaper  than  in  England  !  " 

I  now  entered  the  government  of  Volhinia; 
and  having  arrived  at  Zapardinski,  the  post-master 
confirmed  the  account  of  the  secretary  at  the 
previous  station,  with  respect  to  there  being  no 
horses  along  the  route  indicated  by  the  Post- 
office  at  Odessa,  and,  after  abusing  me,  declared, 
that  I  should  not  leave  unless  I  took  seven  horses. 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


443 


alleging  that  the  roads  were  very  bad.  Hoping 
to  be  soon  beyond  the  limits  of  the  despotic 
government  in  which  I  was,  and  seeing  no  use 
in  remonstrances,  I  complied,  and  actually  set 
off  in  this  ridiculous  manner,  having  seven 
horses  yoked  to  a  calash,  containing  one  person 
only  within  and  one  outside  :  the  driver,  a  beastly 
Jew,  had  four  of  them  yoked  abreast  for  wheelers, 
and  the  remainder  also  abreast  as  leaders ;  him- 
self riding  upon  one  of  the  former,  and  guiding 
the  latter  chiefly  with  a  long  whip.  Had  it  not 
been  for  the  state  of  irritation  in  which  I  was 
from  the  series  of  impositions,  the  abuses,  and 
the  consequent  mortifications,  that  I  had  been 
subjected  to,  I  really  should  myself  have  laughed 
at  the  grotesque  appearance  my  equipage  must 
have  presented.  I  was  allowed  on  my  arrival  at 
Staro  Constantinof  to  take  o?ilj/  sia:  horses  !  and 
the  postilion,  another  Jew,  arranged  them  three 
and  three ;  sitting  himself,  like  the  former  driver, 
on  one  of  the  wheelers,  and  guiding  the  leaders 
with  his  long  whip.  In  due  time  we  reached 
Brycula,  and  having  changed  horses,  once  more 
proceeded  to  Zaslaf,  a  small  town,  the  chief 
place  of  a  district,  being  situated  upon  the  banks 
of  the  river  Gorynia;  and  which,  under  the 
Polish  regime^  was  the  capital  of  a  dutchy  bear- 
ing its  present  name.  Zaslaf  has  annually  six 
large  markets,  where  are  sold  silks  and  stuffs  of 
all  kinds ;  its  inhabitants  are  said  to  amount  to 
4500,  consisting  chiefly  of  Jews.  I  was  fortu- 
nately not  long  detained  here ;  arriving  next  at 


444 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


Bielotina,  and  afterwards  at  Ostrog,  which  de- 
serves a  few  passing  words.  It  is  placed  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  Gorynia,  and  is  the  chief 
town  of  a  district :  it  belonged  anciently  to  the 
Russians ;  afterwards  fell  under  the  dominion  of 
the  Poles,  when  it  was  the  capital  of  a  duchy 
which  comprehended  a  great  part  of  Volhinia  ; 
and  has  since  reverted  to  its  original  possessor, 
Russia.  It  had  once  a  college  for  the  nobles, 
and  another  belonging  to  the  Jesuits,  now,  how- 
ever, in  a  state  of  decay,  showing  only  the  re- 
mains of  their  former  importance.  Ostrog  is  at 
present  the  residence  of  a  dignitary  belonging  to 
the  Greek  church,  who  has  the  title  of  Arch- 
bishop of  Volhinia  and  Jitomir.  It  contains  many 
places  of  worship  and  convents ;  the  Jews  form 
a  very  considerable  portion  of  the  population, 
and  monopolize  the  greatest  part  of  its  trade. 
This  town  is  remarkable,  as  being  the  spot  where 
the  Bible  was  first  printed  in  the  Sclavonic  lan- 
guage. The  post-masters  for  the  last  day  or  two 
have  all  been  Jews ;  and  since  the  Sabbath  began, 
have  sometimes  made  a  difficulty  in  giving  change 
for  the  notes  which,  having  expended  all  my  silver 
coin,  I  was  obliged  to  offer  as  payment  for  the 
horses.  Here  the  post-master  proposed  giving 
me  a  receipt  for  the  surplus,  which  he  said  (and 
his  assertion  I  afterwards  found  to  be  true)  the 
next  post-master  would  take  in  lieu  of  an  equal 
sum  of  money :  I  acceded  to  his  proposition, 
though  at  the  time  I  doubted  his  honesty,  but 
had  eventually  no  reason  to  regret  the  confi- 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


445 


dence  I  had  placed  in  him.  This  is  the  way 
they  satisfy  their  conscientious  scruples,  —  ad- 
hering to  the  letter  of  their  law,  but  evading  its 
spirit.  Being  willing  to  pay  all  demanded  at 
Ostrog,  I  was  enabled,  soon  after  my  arrival,  to 
depart  for  the  next  station,  Tulcza,  which  I 
reached  late  in  the  evening;  and  having  got  some 
tea  at  the  house  of  the  post-master,  apparently 
a  rich  Jew,  set  off  again  about  midnight.  This 
stage  terminated  at  Varkovitchi ;  and  the  comple- 
tion of  the  next,  —  "a  consummation  devoutly 
to  be  wished,"  as  all  must  say  who  are  unlucky 
enough  to  encounter  it  in  the  course  of  their 
travels,  —  brought  us  to  Doubno.  I  never  in 
my  life  was  so  horribly  jolted  about  as  on  enter- 
ing this  town,  in  which  the  carriage-way  is 
formed  by  trunks  of  trees,  large  and  small,  laid 
transversely  over  the  streets.  I  was,  indeed, 
more  fatigued  with  performing  the  last  verst  of 
this  stage  tlian  with  the  ordinary  travelling  of  a 
whole  day ;  and  I  am  certain  that  every  one, 
not  a  native  of  the  country,  who  has  experienced 
the  annoyance  of  passing  through  the  streets  of 
Doubno,  will  agree  with  me  in  calling  the  Rus- 
sians barbarians,  for  allowing  such  roads  to  exist 
in  the  nineteenth  century.  Doubno,  however, 
is  a  curious  and  a  very  ancient  town,  and  is 
situated  upon  the  Ii-va,  one  side  of  the  street  by 
which  I  entered  being  almost  entirely  bounded 
by  water-mills :  there  are  some  remains  of  forti- 
fications here  once  employed  against  the  Turks, 
and  a  Greek  abbey  belonging  to  the  order  of 


446 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


St.  Basil.  I  had  no  inclination  to  stop  here  any 
longer  than  was  absolutely  necessary;  and  being 
so  fortunate  as  to  receive  an  immediate  supply 
of  horses,  I  proceeded,  without  loss  of  time,  to 
Verba.  After  leaving  the  last-mentioned  place 
a  very  great  change  occurred  in  the  nature  of 
the  soil ;  the  roads,  which  for  a  long  time  had 
been  chiefly  composed  of  clay,  were  now  deep  in 
sand :  as  marked  a  contrast  appeared  also  in  the 
trees;  fir  being  the  prevailing  species,  while 
before  they  consisted  of  oak  and  birch.  A  re- 
markably sliort  stage  of  about  ten  versts  con- 
ducted us  to  Kameno-Verboskeio,  where,  as 
usual,  on  changing  horses,  I  paid  much  more 
than  the  proper  sum ;  and  as  I  was  leaving  the 
yard,  the  secretary,  a  Russian  who  spoke  French, 

said  to  me,  "  Le  General a  ete  ici  hier ;" 

and  then  added,  with  a  peculiar  emphasis  I 
shall  never  forget,  "  Bon  voyage.  Monsieur  le 
Docteur!  "  I  did  not  exactly  know  in  what  light 
to  consider  this  parting  salutiition  :  it  was,  how- 
ever, beyond  a  doubt,  that  "  le  General, "  or 
some  of  his  suite,  had  conversed  with  this  man, 
and  that  I  had  formed  the  subject  of  such 
conversation.  This  circumstance  alone  was 
calculated  to  excite  reflection ;  and,  from  the 
connections  and  the  veiy  indifferent  reputa- 
tion of  "  le  General,"  it  appeared  by  no  means 
certain  that  my  farther  progress  would  be  un- 
attended with  danger.  I  have,  however,  arrived 
safely  in  England,  and  have  now  the  opportunity 
of  expressing  my  acknowledgements  to  the  se- 


RETURN    TO   ENGLAND, 


447 


cretary  for  his  information  and  good  wishes. 
Whether  the  tone  in  which  these  were  uttered 
merely  indicated  the  gratuitous  maUce  of  a  slave, 
assured  that  he  might  offer  impertinence  with 
impunity,  or  the  conviction  that  some  mischief 
awaited  me,  —  whether  he  exceeded  or  merely 
fulfilled  his  instructions  in  informing   me   that 

"  le  General"  had  been  there  before  me, I 

was  then,  and  am  still,  indebted  to  him.  At  the 
time  I  received  the  intelligence,  it  prepared 
me  for  the  worst  that  could  occur ;  and  it  has 
now  afforded  me  the  opportunity  to  oflTer  a 
remark  with  respect  to  that  despicable  being 
"  le  General,"  who,  at  the  instigation  of  others, 
had,  I  firmly  believe,  himself  been  tampering 
with  this  low  official  at  a  post  station,  (perhaps, 
indeed,  at  every  post  station  between  Odessa 
and  Brody,)  with  the  view  at  least  of  adding 
to  the  difficulties  of  my  journey,  if  not  for  a 
worse  puii)ose. 

To  return,  however,  from  this  digression.  At 
last  we  arrived  at  the  first  barrier  of  Radzivilof, 
placed  at  about  four  versts  from  the  town.  As 
we  approached  it  was  lowered,  and  a  Kozak 
demanded  our  passports,  which  being  tendered, 
the  barrier  was  lifted  up,  and,  after  we  had 
passed,  was  again  shut.  We  were  detained  here 
for  at  least  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  have  our 
passports  minutely  examined ;  when  they  were 
returned,  and  we  proceeded  onward.  Having 
reached  the  outskirts  of  Radzivilof,  the  passports 
were  agam  demanded,  examined,  and  returned ; 


448 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


m 


after  which  we  entered,  and  found  its  roads  as 
barbarously  constructed  as  those  of  Doubno ;  the 
postilion,  a  Jew,  driving  me  to  the  house  of  one 
of  his  persuasion.  Several  attempts  were  made 
to  detain  me  here  until  the  following  day  :  liow- 
ever,  I  contrived  at  last  to  procure  fresh  horses 
from  a  voiturierj  to  convey  me  to  Brody  (for 
the  Russian  post-horses  go  no  fartlier)  ;  and, 
after  a  delay  of  about  a  couple  of  hours,  during 
which  I  changed  my  Russian  bank  notes  into 
Dutch  ducats,  we  set  off  again.  On  arriving 
at  the  Douancy  situated  at  the  extremity  of 
Radzivilof,  the  same  formalities  as  those  already 
described  were  observed  with  respect  to  the 
barriers,  —  the  passports  being  again  demanded, 
inspected,  signed,  and  registered.  My  port- 
manteaus also,  as  well  as  all  the  boxes  belonging 
to  the  carriage,  were  examined.  I  was  then  asked 
if  I  had  any  Russian  money,  to  which  I  replied 
in  the  negative ;  the  next  question  being,  what 
kind  of  money  I  had  for  the  prosecution  of  my 
journey?  when  I  was  actually  obliged  to  pro- 
duce the  ducats  with  which  I  was  furnished. 
All  these  precautions  are  adopted  to  prevent  the 
Russian  bank  notes  from  being  exported ;  but 
why  ?  Every  bank  note  exported,  I  should  con- 
ceive, must  be  a  benefit  to  the  Russian  govern- 
ment ;  since  the  amount  for  which  it  passes 
must  have  been  paid  in  Russia,  while  it  is 
intrinsically  worth  nothing;  and  if  there  are 
travellers  foolish  enough  to  export  them,  they 
will  be  the  only  losers.     It  is,  however,  said  to 


RETURN    TO   ENGLAND. 


449 


be  done  by  w^ay  of  preventing  the  notes  from 
passing  the  frontiers,  that  they  may  not  be 
forged  in  the  neighbouring  States.  But  this  is 
nonsense  :  how  can  forgeries  be  prevented  by 
such  regulations,  when  a  person  might,  if  he 
chose,  have  a  hundred  notes  in  his  pocket,  since 
(and  I  am  surprised  at  the  exemption)  the 
officers  are  not  in  the  habit  of  searching  the 
persons  of  travellers  ?  But  even  supposing  this 
privilege  no  longer  to  exist,  there  could  be  no 
difficulty  in  secreting  one  note ;  and  one  would 
answer  as  well  as  a  hundred.  This,  in  short, 
like  many  other  Russian  enactments,  is  vexatious 
to  those  subjected  to  it,  without  the  government 
deriving  any  advantage  in  consequence.  The 
search  being  finished,  which,  with  the  examination 
of  the  passports,  took  up  about  twenty  minutes, 
the  barrier  in  front  of  us  was  raised ;  and,  on 
passing  it,  I  was  beginning  to  congratulate  my- 
self  at  being  free,  when  I  found  that  there  was  a 
fourth  ;  —  It  is  not  so  easy  to  escape  from  des- 
potism. —  At  this  last  barrier  the  passports  were 
once  more  demanded,  but  soon  returned,  the 
Douaniers  asking  for  "  drink-money,"  which 
I  refused  to  give,  when  they  told  me  I  should 
not  pass  until  I  had  done  so ;  and,  after  being 
detained  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  I  found  my- 
self necessitated  to  comply  with  their  demands, 
when  these  gentlemen  were  so  condescending  as 
to  allow  me  to  proceed  ;  the  Kozak  lifted  up  the 
barrier,  and  we  passed  into  the  neutral  ground 
between  the  Russian  and  the  Austrian  domi- 


G    G 


II 


Jl 


450 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


nions.  A  drive  of  about  fourteen  versts  further, 
through  sandy  roads,  brought  me  at  last  to 
Brody,  where,  after  being  surrounded  by  a 
crowd  of  Jews  from  the  time  of  my  entering  the 
town,  each  endeavouring  to  procure  me  as  a 
customer  for  the  house  with  which  he  was  con- 
nected, I  ultimately  stopped,  unfortunately,  at 
a  miserable  inn,  called  the  Pomme  d'Or,  kept  by 
a  man  named  Blocki ;  and  I  heartily  caution  my 
countrymen  who  may  hereafter  happen  to  pass 
through  Brody,  never  to  put  up  at  this  house, 
where  they  would  find  poor  accommodations, 
and  be  shamefully  cheated.  The  Hotel  de 
Russie,  opposite  to  the  one  just  mentioned,  is  a 
large  and  respectable  establislnnent,  and  is  that 
to  which  travellers  should  order  themselves  to 
be  driven.  I  arrived  at  Brody  about  half  past 
ten  in  the  evening  of  Monday,  June  15th,  having 
never  reclined  on  a  bed  from  the  preceding  Tues- 
day. I  was  exceedingly  fatigued,  but  chiefly 
worn  out  with  the  unceasing  rascality  which  I  had 
met  with  on  the  road.  However,  I  had  become 
so  habituated  to  sleep  only  a  few  hours  at  a  time, 
that  I  was  awake  long  before  five  o'clock  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  and  was  unable  to  close  my  eyes 
afterwards.  Having  remained  a  few  days  at 
Brody,  during  which  I  had  to  regret  a  continu- 
ance of  the  most  villanous  conduct  on  the  part 
of  my  servant,  who  had  been  selected  and  en- 
gaged by  the  agents  of  my  late  employer  to 
accompany  me  to  Calais,  I  determined  (through 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


451 


the  advice  of  M.  Michalech*,  the  Prussian 
Consul  resident  in  tlie  town,  who  considered  it 
unsafe  for  me  to  travel  any  farther  with  him,)  to 
leave  my  carriage  here,  dismiss  the  servant,  and 
proceed  by  the  Diligence  alone  the  rest  of  my 
journey ;  packing  up  and  sending  my  heavy  lug- 
gage direct  to  England,  also  paying  the  sei-vant 
his  wages  for  as  long  as  it  would  take,  with  fair 
travelling,  to  reach  Calais,  and  giving  him  in 
addition  a  sum  sufficient  to  defray  his  own  ex- 
penses by  the  Diligence ;  thus  enabling  him,  if 
he  chose,  to  go  there.  This  appeared  proper, 
because  I  had  been  told  before  I  left  Odessa,  by 
those  who  selected  the  fellow,  and  by  himself, 
that  he  was  anxious  to  reach  France  ;  such  being 
his  main  object  in  wishing  to  be  engaged  as  my 
servant.  However,  by  a  letter  t  received  from 
Brody,  a  few  weeks  after  my  arrival  in  London, 
I  found  that  he  had  returned  to  Odessa, — no 
doubt  certain  of  a  good  reception  there. 

On  entering  Brody,  the  traveller  is  forcibly 
struck  with  the  difference  in  its  aspect  from  that 

♦  During  my  stay  in  Brody  I  received  from  M.  Michal- 
ech the  greatest  assistance  and  the  most  friendly  attention, 
which  I  cannot  forhear  here  noticing  and  acknowledging. 

f  The  words  of  my  correspondent  are,  "  Votre  recom- 
mandable  domestique  a  passe  pendant  18  jours  dans  la  meme 
auberge  en  qualite  d'un  interprete  aupres  de  voyageurs 
Russes,  Francois,  et  Italiens,  mais  son  habitude  de  changer  les 
mots  et  les  comptes  lui  a  procure  hientot  son  conge  ;  depuis 
il  8*est  engag^  aupres  d'une  actrice  Italienne  en  quality  d  un 
domestique  retournant  pour  Odessa,  Voila  tout  ce  que  je 
puis  vous  dire  sur  cet  homftie." 

G  G   ^ 


452 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


If 


II 


of  Russian  towns ;    trade    seeming  very  brisk, 
though  I  fear  it  is  chiefly  contraband.     In  the 
towns  of  Russia,  on  tlie  contrary,  every  thing 
appears  at  a  stand ;  the  large  ones,  particularly, 
often  presenting  wide   streets,    with  nobody  in 
them :  but   here   all  is  bustle   and   animation. 
The  streets  of  Brody  are  narrow,  but  tolerably 
well  paved  —  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
miserable   log-roads  of   Radzivilof,  only   about 
fourteen  versts  distant.     The  houses  are  built  of 
stone,   and  roofed  with   wood   cut  into  pieces 
about  the  size  of  tiles,   and  when  old  and  black- 
ened having  very  much  the  appearance  of  them. 
It   is  very  densely   peopled,   containing  about 
86,000    inhabitants;  of  which  number   33,000 
are  said  to  be  Jews.     The  gentleman  who  gave 
me  this  information  complained    much  of  the 
unpleasantness  arising  from  living  in  a  town  in 
which  the  population  consists  almost  exclusivly 
of  Israelites.     The   young  people   of  that  per- 
suasion are  married  here  very  early  ;  the  husband 
being  often  not  more  than  sixteen,  and  the  wife 
thirteen  years  of  age  ;  the  parents,  on  both  sides, 
contributing  a  certain  sum  for  their  maintenance 
until  they  are  old'  enough  to  support  themselves ! 
Divorce  is  very  common  among  them, —  a  circum- 
stance not  to  be  wondered  at  from  what  has  just 
been  mentioned  ;  and  the  process  is  exceedingly 
simple,  consisting  merely  in  the  parties  consent- 
ing to  separate  and  to  allow  each  other  to  marry 
again.     I   believe   the   lower  orders   of    Polish 
Jews  to  be  about  the  most  disgustingly  filthy  of 


RETURN   TO    ENGLAND. 


453 


the  whole  human  race,   both  in  their  persons 
and  their  houses ;  an  opinion,  indeed,  which  I 
believe  I  Iiave  already  expressed.      The  mer*. 
chants  here  are  principally  Germans   or   Poles, 
there  being  but  one  Englishman  among  them ; 
and  the  German  language  is  that  chiefly  spoken. 
The  only  government  ofliicer  resident  at  Brody 
is  a  Commissary  of  Police,  upon  whom  I  waited 
at  his  apartments  in  the  "  Hotel  de  Russie,'*  ac- 
companied by  M.  Michalech,  for  the  purpose 
of  requesting  him  to  forward  to  the  Governor  of 
Galhcia,  at  Lemberg,   the  petition   for  a  pass- 
port   to    proceed   thither,    which    M.    M.    had 
kindly  prepared  for  me;   this    being  an  indis- 
pensable formality,  and  one  which  is  very  in- 
convenient to  the  traveller    from  the  delay  it 
occasions.     The  established  religion  at  Brody  ig 
the  Roman  Catholic,  of  which  circumstance  I  was 
reminded  the  third  day  after  my  arrival,  by  wit- 
nessing the  "  Fete  de  Dieu"  which  took  place  at 
that  period.     I  was  much  pleased  shortly  after 
by  the  arrival  of  M.  Dubatchefsky,  whom  I  had 
known  at  Odessa,  and  who  was  for  many  years 
Russian  Consul  in  London,  where  he  was  much 
respected.     He  left  Brody  before   my  own  de- 
parture, which  did  not  take  place  till  Tuesday, 
June  23d ;   when,  my  strength  being  consider- 
ably recruited,  I  took  leave  of  my  good  friend 
M.  Michalech    and   his    lady,    and   about   six 
o'clock  p.  M.  left  Brody  in  the  diligence  which 
runs  from  that  place  to  Lemberg,  arriving  at  the 
latter  on  the  following  morning  about  eleven 

G  G  3 


,11 


454 


RETURX    TO    i:XGLAM>. 


o'clock.  The  merchants  of  Odessa  have  much 
wished  that  there  should  be  a  Russian  diligence 
from  that  town,  to  correspond  with  the  Austrian 
from  Brody,  and  it  has  been  for  some  time 
proposed  to  establish  such  a  mode  of  conveyance 
at  Odessa ;  but  the  Russian  Minister  of  Finance 
has  always  opposed  the  i)lan,  assigning  as  his 
reason  that  it  would  facilitate  smuggling  through 
Radzivilof.  But  if  the  local  autliorities  did 
their  duty,  a  public  diligence  belonging  to  the 
Government  would  be  much  more  easily  searched 
and  watched  than  the  private  carriages  which 
must  be  employed  in  its  place ;  and  thus  a 
check  would  be  put  upon  illicit  trade,  instead 
of  its  continuance  being  facilitated.  As  the  ])ro- 
bability,  however,  is,  under  existing  circum- 
stances, that  an  understanding  would  at  once  be 
entered  into  between  tlie  conductors  of  the  dili- 
gence and  the  various  government  functionaries 
on  the  road,  perhaps  the  Minister  did  right  in 
refusing  his  sanction  to  the  undertaking.  Thus 
it  is  evident  that  in  Russia,  as  Bishop  James  has 
well  observed,  "  the  system  of  peculation  and 
corruption  which  prevails,  is  alone  sufficient  to 
paralyse  her  powers  in  every  branch."  By  the 
establishment  of  such  a  public  conveyance  at  the 
present  time  between  Odessa  and  Radzivilof, 
there  would  be  a  direct  land  communication  be- 
tween the  Black  Sea  and  St.  Petersburg,  as  it  ap- 
pears that,  in  the  earlypart  of  last  year,  diligences 
commenced  running  between  the  latter  capital 
and  Radzivilof,  passing  through  Vitebsk,  Mogilef, 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


455 


Tchernigof,  Kief;  and  Jitomir,  and  the  greatest 
advantages  must  result  in  consequence. 

Upon  arriving  at  Lemberg,  I  proceeded  to  the 
"  Hotel  de  Russie,"  to  which  I  had  been  recom* 
mended, — an  immense  and  showy  establishment; 
but  it  was  so  exceedingly  full  at  the  time,  that 
I  was  compelled  for  that  day  to  put  up  with   a 
miserable   room :    however,    on    the    following 
morning,  in  consequence  of  the  departure  of  a 
family,   I  luckily  obtained  a  pleasant  well-fur- 
nished apartment,  having  an  oblique  view  of  the 
principal   street.      I  was    exceedingly    pleased 
with  Lemberg  during  the  short  time  I  had  the 
opportunity  of  staying.     It   is   of  considerable 
size,  the  greatest  part  of  the  houses  being  built 
upon  a  very  large  scale,   and  the  public  build- 
ings are  magnificent ;  while  the  ground  on  which 
the  town  stands    comprising  several  hills,   this 
variety  of  surface  produces  a  most  picturesque 
and   romantic    appearance.      There   are   many 
beautiful  gardens,  agreeably  situated,  and  kept 
in  very  great  order ;  the  labourers  being  public 
criminals,  who  work  in  fetters.     Lemberg  con- 
tains an  university,  a  public  library,   a  cathe- 
dral, with  several    churches   of  ancient  archi- 
tecture and  imposing  appearance,  two  theatres, 
and  a  population  of  about  60,000  inhabitants; 
while  Odessa,  the  third  town  in  Russia,  has  not 
much  more  than  half  that  number  of  fixed  popu- 
lation.    One  evening  I  met  at  least  a  hundred 
of  the  prisoners   employed  in  the  streets  and 
public  works  returning  from  their  labour  to  the 

G  G  4 


_/ 


456 


IlETUUN    TO   ENGLAND. 


"It 


jail,  their  fetters  making  a  most  dismal  clanking. 
How  this  public  employment  of  criminals  may 
be  found  to  act  as  a  preventive  of  crime  I  know 
not,  but  it  is  a  sight  which  must  give  pain  to 
most  observers. 

Having  presented  my  Austrian  passport  at  the 
Police-office,  where  I  feel  pleasure  in  stating 
that  I  met  with  the  greatest  civihty,  and  men- 
tioned my  intentions  of  travelling  by  the  mail- 
coach,  I  received,  in  consequence,  a  billet  to 
present  at  the  diligence  office  (without  which  no 
passenger  is  allowed  to  proceed) ;  and  my  place 
being  previously  engaged,  on  the  2Gth  of  June, 
at  five  p.  M.,  I  entered  the  eilpost,  or  mail-coach, 
which  proceeds  direct  from  Lemberg  to  Vienna. 
This  is  a  very  commodious  vehicle,  carrying 
only  four  inside  passengers,  and  one  in  the  ca- 
briolet  with   the    conductor:    the    letters   are 

• 

stowed  behind.  The  postilions  wear  red  coats 
edged  with  silver  lace,  with  the  imperial  anns 
placed  a  little  above  their  left  elbows,  cocked 
hats  bound  with  silver,  and  a  green  feather,  yel- 
low buckskin  breeches,  and  high  boots  ;  they 
have  also  a  small  French  horn  slung  round  the 
^loulder  by  an  ornamented  cord  and  tassel, 
which  they  blow  towards  the  conclusion  of  a 
stage,  or  when  other  carriages  are  in  advance  of 
the  diligence,  upon  which  tlie  former  are  im- 
mediately  compelled  to  draw  aside  for  the  pur- 
pose of  letting  it  pass.  Four  horses  are  usually 
employed  in  drawing  it,  but  sometunes  only 
three;  while    the    stages   never   exceed   three 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


457 


German  miles,  and  are,  in  general,  but  two. 
Every  person  who  takes  a  place  by  this  coach  is 
allowed  sixty  pounds  weight  of  luggage,  which 
is  forwarded  the  preceding  day  by  another  vehi- 
cle, —  a  kind  of  light  waggon  •  escorted  by  a  con- 
ducteiir,  who  is  armed,  as  well  as  by  a  soldier,  to 
protect  it  from  robbers  ;  this  being  the  convey- 
ance employed  by  merchants  in  transmitting 
money  between  Lemberg  and  Vienna;  and  it 
reaches  the  place  of  its  destination  a  few  hours 
after  the  eilpost.  Only  five  pounds  of  luggage 
are  allowed  to  accompany  each  passenger ;  and 
when  the  number  of  these  is  greater  than 
the  eilpost  can  accommodate,  another  light 
coach  with  two  horses  follows,  in  which  the  su- 
pernumeraries are  conveyed,  subject  to  the  same 
regulations  as  the  rest  of  the  passengers.  The 
roads  in  Austria  are  excellent,  and  the  celerity 
in  travelling  by  this  conveyance  is,  I  imagine, 
not  less  than  that  of  our  own  mail-coaches. 

We  reached  Przemisl  early  the  next  morning 
(June  27th)  to  breakfast,  and  Tarnow  the  same 
night  about  half-past  eleven ;  being  taken  to  the 
house  of  a  Jew,  where  every  thing  was  of  the 
most  uninviting  description,  and  where  we 
stopped  to  rest  until  four  o'clock  the  next  morn- 
ing, when  the  coach  proceeded  on  its  journey. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  through  the 
free  town  of  Cracow,  celebrated  for  its  salt- 
mines, &c. ;  and  in  the  evening  supped  at  Tes- 
chen,  remaining  here  half  an  hour  only ;  when 
resuming  our  route,  we  entered  Moravia,  and 


fM* 


458 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


If 


travelling  almost  without  intermission,  reached 
Olmutz  the  following  night  (29th).  This  is  a 
very  strong  fortress,  having  never  yet  been 
taken,  and  30,000  soldiers  are  said  to  be  re- 
quired for  its  garrison.  We  arrived  here  about 
ten  o'clock,  and  departed  about  four  the  follow- 
ing morning  (June  30th)  ;  at  one  p.  m.  entering 
Brunn,  a  fortress  of  immense  strength,  within 
which  is  another  fortress,  or,  perhaps,  more  cor- 
rectly speaking,  the  citadel,  placed  upon  the  top 
of  a  hill.  This  latter  is  chiefly  employed  for  the 
confinement  of  criminals  sentenced  to  imprison- 
ment either  for  life  *  or  for  a  very  long  period, 
such,  for  instance,  as  twenty  years.  We  dined 
at  Brunn  ;  and  continuing  our  route,  reached 
Vienna  the  following  morning  (July  1st)  about 
half-past  five  o'clock.  Our  passports  were  de- 
manded at  the  barrier,  and  a  notice  in  three 
languages  delivered  to  myself  and  fellow  travel- 
lers, requiring  us  within  twenty-four  hours  to 
present  ourselves  at  the  Police-office,  in  order  to 
obtain  a  carte  de  surete.  Each  passenger  is 
moreover  asked  to  what  inn  or  other  place  he  is 
going ;  and  in  answer  to  this  question,  I  named 
the  "  Roi  d'Hongrie,"  being  the  hotel  recom- 
mended to  me  by  M.  Dubatchefsky.  We  soon 
entered  the  town,  and  finally  stopped  at  the 
diligence  office,  from  which  I  immediately  pro- 
ceeded to  the  hotel  before  mentioned ;  and  am 

*  The  present  Emperor  of  Austria  has  commuted  the 
punishment  of  death  for  forgery  to  that  of  solitary  imprison- 
ment in  a  fortress  for  life. 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


459 


possibly  consulting  tlie  advantage  of  future  tra- 
vellers by  stating,  that  the  fare  was  excellent, 
the  attendance  good,  and  the  charges  reason- 
able. After  I  had  breakfasted,  a  valet  de  place 
came  to  oflTer  his  services ;  the  wages  of  his  fra- 
ternity  being  fixed  by  law  (as  he  informed  me) 
at  1  florin  of  convention  35  kreutzers  per  day. 
Although  I  have  a  great  dislike  to  valets  de 
place,  who,  I  believe,  in  St.  Petersburg  *  and  in 
Austria  are  generally,  if  not  invariably,  agents 
of  the  Police,  yet  I  engaged  this  man ;  and  must 
say  it  is  difficult  for  a  stranger,  arriving  at  such 
a  place  as  Vienna,  to  go  through  even  the  neces- 
sary routine  with  respect  to  the  Police-office  and 
his  passport  without  one.  A  few  florins  are, 
therefore,  not  thrown  away  in  return  for  the 
assistance  which  these  individuals  have  it  in 
their  power  to  aflTord ;  but  if  the  traveller  wish 
to  make  many  purchases,  he  must  always  recol- 
lect that  they  are  in  league  with  the  shopkeepers 
of  the  place,  and  that  they  will  have  a  per  cent- 
age  upon  every  article  bought  while  they  are 
present.  I  was  told  by  a  tradesman,  in  another 
continental  town,  that  he  and  his  brethren  find 
it  impossible  to  resist  this  system  of  extortion,  in 
consequence   of  the    opportunities    which   the 

*  "  Not  a  Thane  of  them,  but  in  his  house 
She  has  a  servant  fee'd." 

"  Happy  King  of  England !  who  has  no  occasion  for  a 
horde  of  spies  against  his  own  subjects;  and  may  allow  his 
people  to  speak,  write,  and  think  as  they  please." 

Anecdotes  of  the  Russian  Empire. 


•^^TFSs-in 


4G0 


KETURM    TO    ENGLAND. 


It 


valets  de  place   have   of  leatling   strangers   to 
what  shops  they  please. 

Vienna  is  deHghtfully  situated,  being  divided 
into  the  town  and  the  fauxbourgs ;  the  latter  of 
which  are  much  more  extensive  than  the  for- 
mer. The  town  is  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
fauxbourgs,  surroiuuled  by  a  brick  wall  about 
forty-five  feet  in  height,  with  a  dry  ditch  and 
other  fortifications;  but  being  commanded  by 
the  fauxbourgs,  and  for  other  reasons,  it  would 
be  unable  to  stand  a  regular  siege.  The  number 
of  streets  in  the  town  amounts  to  110;  they  are 
generally  very  narrow,  but  well  paved  and  ex- 
ceedingly clean.  The  houses  are  stated  only  at 
1217,  but  they  are  exceedingly  higli, — consisting 
generally  of  five,  six,  or  even  more  stories ;  and 
inhabited  often  by  several  famiHes.  The  faux- 
bourgs are  computed  to  contain  G*200  houses, 
and  the  total  number  of  inhabitants  in  Vienna  is 
estimated  at  from  270,000  to  275,000.  The 
attempt  minutely  to  describe  this  capital,  after 
a  residence  of  only  four  days,  would  be  ridicu- 
lous; while  the  many  descriptions  no  doubt 
already  existing,  would,  perhaps,  render  even 
a  faithful  and  elaborate  account  of  it  super- 
fluous. I  glanced  at  most  of  the  objects  calcu- 
lated to  excite  curiosity  that  were  accessible, 
but  had  only  the  opportunity  of  j)articularly  in- 
specting one  establishment,  namely,  the  Arsenal : 
I  shall,  therefore,  merely  observe,  that  Vienna 
appeared  to  me  a  most  beautiful  city,  rich  in 
specimens  of  fine  architecture,   containing  en- 


IlETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


461 


chanting  gardens  and  delightful  drives ;  possess- 
ing, in  short,  every  thing  calculated  to  render  it 
an  agreeable  summer  residence. 

July  4th.  —  Having  secured  a  place  in  the 
diligence  from  Vienna  to  Lintz,  and  another  to 
Passau,  at  about  9  o'clock  p.m.  I  left  Vienna, 
and  the  following  evening,  at  halflpast  six, 
arrived  at  Lintz.  The  conducteur,  who  was  a 
very  gentlemanly  person,  had  been  an  officer  in 
the  army,  and  wore  the  insignia  of  some  military 
order.  The  women  in  Lintz  wear  a  curious 
head-dress,  consisting  of  gold  cloth  formed  into 
a  globular  shape,  which  is  placed  at  the  back  of 
the  head.  It  is  peculiar  to  Lintz,  and  is  very 
pretty. 

July  6th.  —  About  eight  o'clock,  I  observed 
the  students  hurrying  to  the  university  to  lec- 
ture, and  half  an  hour  afterwards  left  Lintz 
in  a  very  heavy  coach  loaded  with  baggage. 
Tliis  is  one  of  the  old  diligences  first  estab- 
lished  on  the  Continent ;  its  conducteur  sitting 
inside,  and  a  soldier  in  front  on  the  outside, 
as  guards.  We  travelled  exceedingly  slowly, 
having  performed  only  four  stages  by  half  past 
ten  p.  M.,  when  we  arrived  at  Scharding ;  where, 
on  stopping  at  the  inn  for -the  night,  our  pass- 
ports were  demanded  to  be  sent  to  the  Police. 

July  7th.  —  We  left  our  quarters  about  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and,  after  walking  a 
short  distance,  reached  the  Bavarian  diligence. 
This  is  one  of  the  old  kind,  carrying  six  inside, 
including  the  condmteur,  who  was  a  most  power- 


h 


462 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


?" 


I  I 


■™ 


fill  young  man,  having  been  a  militaiy  officer, 
and  wearing  two  orders.  He  was  dressed  in  a 
light  bkie  unifbrm,  with  a  silver  badge  on  the 
left  breast,  and  armed  with  a  brace  of  pistols 
and  a  sabre.  The  Bavarian  postiUons  wear  blue 
jackets  edged  with  silver  lace,  and  round  hats 
with  bands  of  the  same  material.  We  soon 
arrived  at  a  bridge  over  the  Danube,  one  half  of 
whicli  is  within  the  Austrian  and  tlie  other  be- 
lon<nnir  to  the  Bavarian  dominions:  a  fact  of 
which  I  was  apprized,  as  soon  as  we  liad  j)assed 
the  middle  of  the  river,  by  one  of  my  companions, 
a  volatile  young  fellow,  exclaiming,  —  "  Now  we 
may  talk  as  much  as  we  please  :  the  King  and  the 
Government  here  are  liberal."*  About  half-past 
one  o'clock  p.m.  we  reached  Passau,  and  were 
driven  to  the  Douane,  where  the  diligence  office 
is  also  situated,  and  at  w  hich  I  engaged  a  place 
for  Nurnburg.  The  luggage  was  not  examined 
by  the  Custom-house  officers ;  but  the  travellers 
were  required  to  set  a  value  upon  their  property 
before  it  was  received.  We  dined  at  a  handsome 
hotel,  where  the  repast  prepared  was  excellent : 
shortly  afterwards  we  were  taken  up  by  the 
coach,  and,  travelling  all  night,  reached  Ratis- 
bon  the  following  mprning  (July  8th)  by  half- 
past  seven.  After  breakfast,  having  learnt  that 
the  diligence  would  not  start  again  until  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  I  strolled  into  the  town, 

*  It  was  announced  lately  in  the  papers,  that  the  Emperor 
of  Austria  had  forbidden  the  circulation  of  the  King  of 
Bavaria's  poems  within  his  Imperial  Majesty's  dominions. 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


463 


in  company  w  ith  a  most  agreeable  fellow-passen- 
ger.    Ratisbon  is  a  large  and  pleasantly  situated 
place,  containing  several  beautiful  gardens  and 
many  fine  edifices ;  the  cathedral,  in  particular, 
is  a  noble  building.     The  streets,  however,  are 
narrow  and  badly  paved.     The  women  wear  a 
peculiar   costume  for    the  head   in   this   town, 
somewhat  resembling  that  of  Lintz,  but  neither 
so  large  nor  so  handsome.     During  part  of  the 
night  a  mounted  dragoon  accompanies  the  dili- 
gence,   in   addition   to  the  armed   conducteur  ; 
which  regulation  lias  been  made  in  consequence 
of  its  having  formerly  been  repeatedly  attacked 
and  robbed  by  brigands.     At  Ratisbon,  the  tra- 
veller will  find  the  true  German  bed  in  all  its 
perfection :  those  I  met  with  were  too  short  to 
allow  of  the  body  being  perfectly  extended,  while 
two  large  pillows  raise  it  almost  into  the  erect 
position,  and  then  a  down  feather-bed  is  placed 
above,  which,  without  considerable  skill  in  the 
sleeper,  will  slip  oflT  altogether,   and  leave  him 
uncovered.     At  the  hour  appointed  in  the  after- 
noon we  set  oflT  once  more,  the  number  of  inside 
passengers  being  increased  to  six  by  the  addition 
of  three  Bavarian  young  ladies.    We  found  it 
excessively  hot;    and  were,   during  the  night, 
as  before,  escorted  by  a  dragoon ;  arriving  the 
next  morning  (July  9th),  about  half-past  seven, 
at  Nurnburg.     This  is  a  free  town,  the  religion 
of  which   is   Protestant,    though    all    the    rest 
of  Bavaria  is,   I  believe.  Catholic.     There   are 
many  fine  churches  and  other  interesting  pieces 


:t 


t  f 


4^iH 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


of  architecture  in  Nurnbiirg;  the  houses 
are  lofty,  with  high  gable  ends  towards  the 
streets,  almost  always  having  ornamented  bow 
windows.  The  fronts  are  painted  either  green 
or  some  other  light  colour,  being  occasionally 
decorated  with  painted  j)illars  and  pilasters  or 
fancy  borders.  The  streets  are,  like  those  of 
most  continental  towns,  narrow,  and  paved  with 
small  pebbles.  The  house  of  Albert  Durcr  was 
shown  me :  it  is  now  the  property  of  an  aca- 
demy of  painters.  My  object  being  to  reach 
England  with  the  least  possible  delay,  I  esteemed 
myself  fortunate  in  finding  a  place  vacant  in  the 
diligence  from  hence  to  Hanau,  and  imme- 
diately  secured  it.  I  left  Nurnburg  about  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  I  had  the  plea- 
sure of  discovering  the  vehicle  in  which  I  was 
proceeding  to  be  a  light  and  commodious  eil- 
wagen,  or  mail-coach.  We  travelled  at  a  quick 
rate,  and  reached  Wurzburg,  a  strongly  fortified 
town  w4th  wide  streets  and  handsome  buildings, 
about  six  in  the  morning  of  July  10th.  Another 
coach  started  the  same  afternoon,  in  which  I 
continued  my  route ;  arriving  next  morning  (July 
11th)  at  Hanau,  where  we  changed  coaches 
once  more,  and  soon  after  entered  Frankfort  sur 
le  Mein :  having  never  been  asked  for  my  pass- 
port since  I  entered  Bavaria;  an  exemption 
forming  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  perpetual 
annoyance  in  this  respect  which  occurs  while 
travelling  in  France  and  Austria.  I  proceeded 
without  delay  to  the  White  Swan ;  the  first  hotel, 


RETURN   TO   ENGLAND. 


4S5 


1  believe,  in  the  town;  and  certainly  one  at 
which  the  charges  are  exorbitantly  high,   Frank- 
fort sur  le  Mein  is  a  beautiful  place,  but  is  now 
so  well  known  to  English  travellers,  that  any 
description   of  it   here  would  be   superfluous. 
Those  who  may  be  desirous  of  procuring  prints 
or  sketches  illustrative  of  the  town  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  will  find  an  ample  collection 
at  the  shop  of  M.  Jugel,  in  one  of  the  principal 
streets,  some  of  which,  for  correctness  and  exe- 
cution, cannot  be  surpassed.   The  most  agreeable 
mode  of  conveyance  during  summer  from  Frank- 
fort to  Cologne  is  by  water,  through  the  medium 
of  the  rivers  Meyne  and  Rhine;  a  steam-boat 
leaving  Frankfort  every  day  for  Mayence,  and  a 
corresponding  one  arriving  at  Frankfort :  steam- 
boats also  ply  daily  between  Mayence  and  Co- 
logne.^  I  was  not  long  in  determining  to  go  by 
water  as  far  as  Cologne ;  and  having  provided  . 
myself  with  the  necessary  ticket,  embarked  on 
board  the  steam-boat,  and  at  3  p.  m.  precisely 
(July  12th)  left  Frankfort,  the  view  of  which 
from   the    river    is   enchanting.      We   reached 
Mayence  the  same  evening  about  seven  o'clock, 
where  the  only  object  of  interest  which  I  had 
the  opportunity  particularly  to  notice  was  the 
bridge  of  boats  across  the  Rhine.     On  reaching 
the    shore.  Custom-house    officers   immediately 
made  their  appearance,  by  whom  our  luggage 
was   landed   for    the   putpose   of  examination, 
which,  however,  proved  to  be  little  more  than  a 
matter   of  form.     My  portmanteaus  were   un- 

n  n 


vi 


»-■' 


i  : 


406 


HETUnN    TO   ENGLAND. 


,m 


II 


i^ 


locked,  and  the  officers  passed  their  hands  down 
the  sides  of  them,  but  did  not  turn  out  any 
thing.     What  a  difference  to  Russia,  where  the 
lynx-eyed  Douanier  must  peep  into  every  cre- 
vice, and  where  so  barbarously  are  their  exam- 
inations made,  that    the   articles  imported  are 
sometimes  destroyed,  or  materially  injured,  in 
consequence !     A  friend  of  mine  (not  a  Rus- 
sian) had  ordered  from  England  a  copy  of  Rees*s 
Cyclopaedia  to  be  sent  to  him  at  Odessa :  when 
the   work  arrived  at  the  frontiers,   one  of  the 
officers  took  it  into  his  head  that  the  package 
contained  vodka  (brandy),  and  determined  to 
employ  their  never-failing  test,  an  auger,  to  as- 
certain  the  fact.      He  accordingly  bored  deeply, 
but  no  fluid  escaped ;  not  even  the  faintest  odour 
of  the  exhilarating  spirit  gratified  his  expectant 
nose.     He  was,   therefore,  notwithstanding  the 
penetration  with  which   his  enquiry  had   been 
conducted,  compelled  with  a  sigh  to  believe  that 
no   vodka   lurked  within;  and   the   chest  was, 
consequently,    passed   to   its   owner,    who,    on 
opening  it,  found  that  the  auger  had  perforated 
one  if  not  more  of  the  volumes,  and,  of  course, 
considerably  injured  them. 

July  13th. — Shortly  before  six  o'clock  in 
the  morning  I  hurried  to  the  steam-boat  office, 
for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  ticket,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  got  on  board  the  vessel,  which 
at  six  precisely  left  her  moorings,  and  we 
proceeded  on  our  voyage ;  reaching  Coblentz 
about  half-past  eleven  a.  m.,.  and  Cologne  at  five 


M 


RETURN    TO   ENGLAND. 


467 


in  the  afternoon.  The  scenery,  for  the  first  two 
thirds  of  the  distance,  is  most  magnificent :  high 
hills  appear  on  either  side,  covered  to  the  water's 
edge  with  vines  planted  in  terraces,  or  studded 
with  numerous  castles  and  picturesque  ruins; 
a  full,  large,  and  rapid  river  flowing  between : 
opposite  to  Coblentz  is  the  celebrated  fortress  of 
Ehrenbreitstein,  the  Gibraltar  of  Prussia.  Upon 
landing,  I  proceeded  to  the  Hotel  de  la  Cour  Im- 
periale,  from  whence  I  sent  to  engage  a  place  in 
the  diligence  to  Brussels  for  the  following  morn- 
ing at  six.  There  is  a  fine  cathedral  at  Cologne, 
certainly,  though  I  had  only  the  opportunity  of 
viewing  its  exterior ;  but  the  streets  are  narrow, 
badly  paved,  and  dirty,  while  the  houses  appeared 
to  consist  almost  entirely  of  tobacco-shops  and 
auberges.  A  more  miserable  place,  I  should 
think,  scarcely  exists,  always  excepting,  of  course, 
the  wretched  log  towns  in  Russia. 

July  14th. — We  left  Cologne  at  the  time  men- 
tioned, and  reached  Aix-la-Chapelle  by  three 
o'clock  p.  M.,  continuing  our  journey  in  another 
coach ;  and  although  I  had  taken  a  place  in  the 
coupdy  I  found  myself  under  the  necessity  of 
submitting  to  be  put  in  the  hinder  part  of  the 
vehicle,  containing  five  persons  besides  myself. 
It  was  literally  crammed,  and  I  scarcely  ever 
passed  such  an  unpleasant  night ;  for,  notwith- 
standing the  sultry  weather,  three  out  of  the  six 
passengers  were  determined  to  have  the  windows 
closed,  while  an  English  lady  and  gentleman, 
with  myself,  chose  rather  to  endure  the  incon- 

H  H  2 


i 


■d 


468 


RETURN    TO    ENGLAND. 


it 


if 


II 


w 


venience  to  which  we  were  subjected,  than  to 
adopt  the  disagreeable  alternative  of  coming  to 
an  open  rupture  with  our  unaccommodating 
fellow  travellers.  This  was  one  of  the  old  dili- 
gences :  indeed,  those  of  Belgium  are  without 
exception  miserably  incommodious  vehicles,  slow 
travellers,  and  badly  conducted ;  while  the  Au- 
strian eilwagen,  as  I  have  before  observed,  is  little 
if  at  all  inferior  to  the  beautiful  mail-coaches  of 
our  own  country. 

July  15th. — At  nine  o'clock  this  morning  I 
reached  the  Hotel  de  Suedois  at  Brussels,  sadly 
fatigued  with  the  last  night's  journey.  The  first 
object  with  me  here,  as  at  other  places  during 
my  progress  homewards,  was  to  ascertain  by  what 
conveyance  I  could  most  speedily  reach  my 
native  shore;  and  after  the  necessary  enquiries, 
I  determined  upon  proceeding  to  Ostend,  from 
whence  I  found  a  steam-boat  was  to  sail  on  the 
17th  for  England,  —  a  diligence  leaving  Brussels 
on  the  same  day,  which  would  arrive  at  Ostend 
in  time  for  the  packet  in  question.  Having 
therefore  engaged  a  place  in  the  former,  I  re- 
solved to  employ  the  following  day  (l6th)  in 
visiting  the  memorable  field  of  battle  at  Waterloo, 
which  no  Englislunan  can  view  without  proud 
feelings  on  tlie  occasion,  nor  without  experiencing 
the  most  unqualified  admiration  of  the  illustrious 
person,  who,  whether  in  peace  or  war,  in  com- 
bats or  in  councils  alike  involving  the  fate  of 
empires,  is  equally  distinguished  as  foremost  ia 
the  ffreat  cause  of  his  countrv. 


RETURN    TO   ENGLAND. 


409 


On  the  7th  I  left  Brussels,  reaching  Ostend 
the  same  night,  where  I  embarked  in  the  steam- 
boat for  London;  and,  on  completing  a  bois- 
terous passage  of  twenty-four  hours,  landed  at 
the  Custom-house,  near  midnight  on  the  17th  of 
July,  after  an  absence  of  twenty-one  months ; 
during  which  I  have  had  the  opportunity  of 
seeing  foreign  places  and  foreign  customs,  —  of 
estimating  the  manners,  the  jurisprudence,  and 
the  religion,  existing  elsewhere :  I  have  learned, 
in  consequence,  more  perfectly  to  appreciate 
the  happiness  and  the  honour  of  being  able  to 
claim  this  as  my  native  country  —  of  belonging 
to  a  people  far  above  others  in  the  scale  of  moral 
excellence.  More  deeply  impressed  with  the 
conviction  of  this  superiority,  I  have  been  led  to 
contemplate,  with  increased  reverence  and  grati- 
tude, its  cause  —  the  wisdom  and  the  virtue  in 
which  originated  a  form  of  government  that 
has  rendered  Great  Britain  pre-eminent  among 
nations ! 


H  If  3 


4.70 


TABLES. 


Table  useful  for  Persons  travelling  in  Russia, 
showing  at  sight  the  Amount  to  be  paid  for 
Three  or  Four  Post  Horses,  at  Eight  Kopecks 
per  Horse  per  Verst  *,  which  is  the  legal  Rate 
of  posting  on  the  Great  Roads  of  the  Empire. 


For 

For 

For 

For 

No.  of 

Three 

Four 

No.  of 

Three 

Four 

Versts. 

Horses. 

Horses. 

Versts. 

Horses. 

Horses. 

R.      K. 

R.      K. 

R.       K. 

R.      K. 

12 

2     88 

3     84 

23 

5     52 

7     36 

13 

3     12 

4     16 

24 

5     76 

7     68 

14 

3     36 

4     48 

25 

6     00 

8     00 

15 

3     60 

4     80 

26 

6     24 

8     32 

16 

3     84 

5     12 

27 

6     48 

8     64 

17 

4     08 

5     44 

28 

6     72 

8     96 

18 

4     32 

5     76 

29 

6     96 

9     28 

19 

4     56 

6     08 

30 

7     20 

9     60 

20 

4     80 

6     40 

31 

7     44 

9     92 

21 

5     04 

6     72 

32 

7     68 

10     24 

22 

5     28 

7     04 

No  stages  in  Russia  contain  more  than 
thirty-five  versts,  and  few  more  than  thirty- 
two. 

The  postilions  expect  to  be  paid  a  trifle  at 
each  stage.  Sixty  or  eighty  kopecks  is  con- 
sidered  handsome  from  a  private  individual. 


*  A  verst  is  about  two  thirds  of  an  English  mile.  The 
pottUions  are  bound  by  law  to  go  not  less  than  ten  versts 
per  hour. 


TABLES. 


471 


VALUE    OF    RUSSIAN    MONEY. 

A  Rouble  contains  a  hundred  Kopecks.  In 
consequence  of  the  depreciation  of  the  paper 
currency,  four  paper  roubles  only  equal  one 
silver  rouble.  During  the  years  1828-9,  the 
rate  of  exchange  was  generally  23^  paper  rou- 
bles for  the  pound  sterling. 

TABLE    OF    WEIGHTS    AND    MEASURES    USED    AT 


96  Zolotniks 
40  Pounds 

10  Pouds 
16  Vershocks 


ODESSA. 

Weights. 
make 


1  Pound. 

1  Poud   (ziSGlbs. 

English.) 
1  Berkowetz. 


Measures. 
make 


1  Archine  ( zz  J  of 
a  yard  English.) 
3  Archines         -  -         1  Segene. 

A  Deciatine  contains  80  Segenes  in  length  by 
40  wide. 


5  Pints  make 

2  Osmouskies 
4  Quarters 

3  Vedros 

40  Vedos,  or  13^  Ancres 


1  Osmouski. 
1  Quarter. 
1  Vedro. 
1  Ancre. 
1  Barique. 


II  II  4 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


A. 

Acheva,  126. 

Advice  to  English  medical  men,  108. 

Aix  la  Chapelle,  467. 

Alexander,  Emperor,  projected  murder  of,  153.  His  contem- 
plated abdication,  ibid.  His  reason  for  journeying  to  the 
south  of  Russia,  ibid.  Predisposing  cause  of  the  death  of, 
ibid.     Death  of,  154'. 

Alexander,  Fort,  13. 

Alexandria,  132.  152. 

Anne,  St.,  Order  of,  51. 

Arendt,  Dr.,  103. 

Arkoudinsky,  Captain,  179. 

Arwooga,  123. 

Attendant,  medical,  of  the  Capitan  Pacha  sent  to  Siberia^ 
409—426. 


B. 

Babinovitchi,  130. 

Baird,  Mr.,  201.  252. 

Balabine,  General,  28. 

Balls  and  masquerade  at  the  Governor-generars,  355. 

Balta,  434. 

Baltic  Port,  5. 

Baptist,  right  hand  of  John  the,  1 16. 

Bavaria,  liberal  poems  of  the  King  of,  462. 

Bavarian  diligence,  461.     Bavarian  postilions,  462. 

Bejanitzy,  127. 

Belgium,  diligences  of,  468. 

Benkendorf,  General,  385. 

Berzelius,  M.,  262. 


474 


INDEX. 


IND£X. 


475 


Bible  first  printed  in  the  Sclavonic  language,  444>. 

BieJa  Tserkof,  147.  Miserable  accommodations  at,  149.  De- 
scription of  the  mansion  at,  150. 

Bielotina,  444.   , 

Bingham,  Lord,  goes  as  a  volunteer  to  Varna,  387.    Received 
the  Cross  of  St.  Vladimir  from  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  ib. 

Blaremberg,  M.,  178.  283.  407. 

. ,  Captain,  356,  357. 

Bogdanofsky,  General,  262. 

Boug,  river,  168.    Ludicrous  cavalcade  to  the,  169.    Passage 
of,  170. 

Boguslaf,  155. 

Borovitchi,  125. 

Branitskii,  Count,  150. 

. ,  Countess,  147.  Reported  income  of,  ibid.     Anec- 
dotes of,  147,  148. 

Bratslaf,  437.     Infamous  conduct  of  the  post-master   and 
secretary  at,  438. 

Brides,  dresses  of,  in  Russia,  350. 

Brody,  440.  447.  450,  451,  452,  453. 
,  population  of,  452. 

Brunn,  458. 

Brussels,  468,  469. 

Brycula,  443. 

C. 

Caitchailee  and  Greek  dance,  337. 
Castelnau,  Marquis,  312.  329. 
Catharine,  Empress,  360. 

« J  Institute  of  St.,  61.    Strictures  upon,  ibid. 

Ceremony  of  washing  the  feet,  331. 
Charpie,  making,  343. 
Cherson,  government  of,  158. 
Circassians,  347* 
Clarke,  Dr.,  39.  166.  355. 
Coblentz,  466,  467. 
Cobley,  General,  173. 
Coblifka,  ibid. 


Cochrane,  Captain,  56. 

,  Mrs.,  ibid. 
Codema,  R.,  434. 
Cold,  instance  of  intense,  1 25. 
Cologne,  465,  466. 
Colovrat,  Count,  116. 

Conjugal  devotion,  remarkable  instance  of,  339. 
Constantino,  Grand  Duke,  abdication  of,  54. 
Copenhagen,  4. 
Cozaletz,  136. 
Cracow,  free  town  of,  457. 
Cronchlot,  13. 
Cronstadt,  6.  12, 13. 
Cross,  piece  of  the  real,  116. 
Customs,  various  Russian,  350. 
Custom  after  an  accouchement,  351. 
-^— ~-  on  Christmas  eve,  ibid. 

on  the  last  day  of  the  year,  353. 

^— ^  on  New-year's  day  in  the  south  of  Russia,  ibid. 

Dalneskaia,  429. 

Danube,  passage  of  the,  Te  Deum  for,  371. 

Dawe,  Mr.,  45.  51.  95.  374. 

Demoiselles  nobles,  communautd  des,  61. 

Denizof,  Count  Orlof,  385. 

Despotism,  instances  of,  345. 

DiarkofsUy,  4.AO» 

Diebitch,  General,  44. 

Disbrowe,  Mr.,  English  minister  at  St.  Petersburg,  8. 

Dobreyka,  133. 

Dobryanka,  137. 

Dofinof  ka,  174. 

Dolgofka,  123. 

Doubno,  440.  445.  447. 

Doubrova,  126. 

Drosdovitza,  137. 

Dubatchefsky,  M.,  late  Russian  consul  in  London,  453.  458. 


470 


INDEX. 


Durer,  Albert,  the  house  of,  464. 
Dvina,  river,  129. 

£. 

Ehrenbreitstein,  467. 

Ekaterinoslaf,  government  of,  158. 

Eilpost,  Austrian,  or  mail-coach,  456. 

Elizavetgrad,  159. 

Elsineur,  4. 

Empress-mothers',  the  late,  opinion  respecting  female  society 

in  Russia,  66,  67,  68. 
Empress,  the  reigning-,  portrait  of,  382. 

,  Elizabeth,  the  punishment  of  death  abolished  by,  78. 

England,  return  to,  427. 
Equipages  of  the  Russians,  69. 
Execution  by  hanging,  first  employed  in  Russia,  79. 
. ,  melancholy  instance  of,  ibid. 

F. 

False  marche  route  given  by  the  Odessa  post-office,  91. 
Fete  charapetre  given  to  the  Empress,  374. 
Filerma,  miraculous  image  of  our  Lady  of,  116. 
Finland,  Gulf  of,  5. 

Foreigners,  list  of  offices  in  Russia  held  by,  44,  45. 
Franck,  Baron,  150.  158.  160.  162.  166.  171.  354. 
Frankfort  sur  le  Meine,  464,  465. 


G. 


Gale,  terrific,  2. 
Galitzin,  Prince,  851. 

,  Princess,  ibid. 

Gaponovtchina,  129. 
German  bed,  463. 
Glinka,  136. 
Gomel,  137. 
Gorodetz,  124.  156. 
Gorodnya,  137. 
Gorynia,  river,  443,  444. 
Gottenburg,  3. 


INDEX. 

Goudovitch,  General,  179,  180. 

Grebenski,  147.  154. 

Gregoriopol,  433. 

Greig,  Admiral,  44.  166,  167,  168,  169.  370. 

Gromoklaiefskaia,  159. 

H. 

Hadgibey,  taking  of,  178. 
Hajji  Baba  in  England,  adventures  of,  20. 
Hanau,  464. 
Hartval,  Professor,  287. 
Hederim,  43. 

Herheoulidzef,  Prince,  75. 
Heytesbury,  Lord,  380. 
Hoffman,  Colonel,  429. 
Hompech,  Baron,  116. 
Howard  the  philanthropist,  28,  29.  31. 
,  monument  of,  355. 


477 


L 


Ingoul,  river,  168. 
Intruders,  military,  5. 
Irva,  river,  445. 


J. 


Jackson,  Mr.,  a  British  subject  taken  prisoner  of  war  at 

Varna,  413.417.  419. 
John,  St.,  battery  of,  13. 
James,  Bishop,  40.  62.  454. 
Jantschokrack,  171. 
Jugel,  M.,  465. 
Jusuph  Pacha,  391.  395,  396,  397,  398,  399,  400,  401,  402, 

403,  404,  405.  424. 
's  Circassian  wife,  399. 


K. 


Kameno-verboskeio,  446. 
Kandybina,  165. 
Karapetze,  155. 


fhii 


478 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


479 


Kief,  144.  Arrive  at,  145.  Fortress  of  Petchersl  at,  ibid. 
Church  of  St.  Nicholas  at,  ibid.  Petcherskoi  monastery, 
ibid.  Catacombs,  ibid.  Bodiesof  saints,  ibid.  Odoriferous 
heads,  146.  Child  murdered  by  Herod's  order,  ibid.  Old 
Kief,  ibid.  Church  of  St.  Sophia,  ibid.  Convent  of  St. 
Michael,  ibid.  The  Podole,  ibid.  University,  ibid.  Popu- 
lation of,  ibid. 

Kiriakof,  Messrs.,  189. 

Kirico,  Mademoiselle,  357. 

Kisselef,  Madame,  368,  369.  372. 

Korinikha,  171* 

Korsun,  156. 

Kostoukovka,  137. 

Kotchubey,  Count  383. 

Koutschourganskaia,  431. 

Krasnoe,  137.  155. 

Kutnia,  136. 


Laban,  Dr.,  329. 

Langeron,  Count,  195,  196.  291.  331-. 
Lascy)  General,  336. 
Laurer,  Madame,  163. 
Leighton,  Dr.,  45. 
Lemberg,  453.  455. 
Lintz,  461. 
,  peculiar  head  dress  at,  ibid. 

Lipetzkaiay  434. 

Litichef,  440. 

Litofsky  prison,  visit  to,  27. 

Litvinovitchi,  136. 

Lityn,  440. 

Locusts,  338. 

Louga,  river,  124. 

Louga,  ibid. 

Lyall,  Dr.,  39.  74.  166.  355. 

— — ,  his  definition  of  a  genteel  education  in  Russia,  64. 

,  his  statements  confirmed,  147.  260.  278. 


I 


M. 

Macmichael,  Dr.,  40.  76.  274. 

Magnetism,  animal,  341. 

Malaiestcha,  433. 

Masquerade  at  court,  40. 

Mariconi,  Mademoiselle,  377. 

Markofsky,  440. 

Martos,  M.,  359. 

Matusavitch,  Count,  368. 

Maximovka,  160.  162.     Deplorable  post  station  at,  160. 

Mayence,  465. 

Medical  officers  of  the  Russian  army,  condition  of,  98. 

Medgibodze,  440. 

Michailof  Pogost,  127. 

Michalech,  M.,  Prussian  consul  at  Brody,  451.  453. 

Michel,  the  Grand  Duke,  379. 

Miloradovitch,  Count,  17. 

Moden,  Count,  375.  384. 

Mogilef,  government  of,  130.     Town  of,  135. 

Moravia,  457. 

Mordvinof,  Admiral,  169.  Letter  of,  to  the  present  Em- 
peror of  Russia,  21 1. 

Morton,  Captain,  R.  N.,  his  theory  of  the  electrical  formation 
of  hail,  233. 

Moshney,  155. 

Moskalenskaja,  155. 

Murders,  number  of  in  Russia  and  England,  71. 

N. 

Narischkine,  Governor,  357. 

,  General  Leon,  159.  165.  403,  404. 

,  Madame  Leon,  357.  368.  372. 403,  404. 

Navarino,  battle  of,  and  the  Russians,  50. 

Nemerof,  439. 

Nestlerode,  Count,  385. 

Neva,  ceremony  of  blessing  the  waters  of  the,  44. 

Nicholle,  Abbe,  289. 


480 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


481 


Nikolaief,   165,  166,  167.  170.     Foundation  of,  168.     De- 
scription of,  169.    Disadvantages  of,  ibid. 
Novo  Belitza,  137. 
Novo  Doubossari,  433,  434-. 
Novomirgorod,  158. 
Nurnburg,  463,  464. 

O. 

Odessa,  ancient  inhabitants  of;  Grecian  establishments  on 
the  site  of,  177.  Hadgibey,  Adgibey,  Kodgibey,  Turkish 
names  of;  foundation  of,  182.  Not  the  site  of  Odessus, 
183.  Progress  of,  from  1803  to  1814,  190.  Particular 
description  of,  198.  House  of  Jusuph  Pacha  at,  199. 
New  Boulevard  at,  200.  New  house  of  Count  Vorontzof 
at,  201,  202,  203,  204.     Execrable  state  of  the  roads  at, 

208.  Roguery  of  those  connected  with   the  roads   at, 

209.  214.  Climate  of,  215.  236.  Population  of,  236—241. 
Government  of,  241.  Public  business  much  in  arrear  at, 
ibid.  Magistrates  of,  ibid.  Police  of,  ibid.  Gendarmerie 
of,  243.  Revenues  of  the  town  of,  244.  Ports  of,  246, 
247.  Table  of  ships  arrived  and  departed  in  1827  from 
the  foreign  port  of,  247.  Table  of  arrivals  and  departures 
in  1827,  and  under  what  flag,  248.  Table  of  arrivals  and 
departures  from  the  home  port  in  1827,  ibid.  Table  of 
arrivals  and  departures  in  1828  from  the  foreign  port  of, 

249.  Table  of  arrivals  and  departures  from  the  home 
port  in  1828,  ibid.    List  of  articles  imported  into  in  1828, 

250.  List  of  articles  exported  from  in  1828,  251.  First 
employment  of  steam  boats  in  the  Black  Sea,  252.  Steam 
boat  "Ville  d'Odessa"  a  failure,  253.  Quarantine,  de- 
scription of  at,  254,  255,  256.  Board  of  Health  belonging 
to,  257.  Custom-house  at,  ibid.  Amount  of  duties  at, 
for  a  series  of  years,  258.  Classes  of  merchants  at,  260. 
The  Exchange  at,  261.  The  new  Exchange  at,  262. 
Tribunal  of  commerce  at,  ibid.  Deputation  of  commerce 
at,  263.  Brokers  at,  ibid.  Bank  of  exchange  at,  264. 
Discount  or  loan  bank  at,  ibid.  Chambers  of  insurance 
at,  265.  Imperial  chamber  of  insurance  at,  ibid.  Greco- 
Russian  chamber  of  insurance  at,  ibid.     Fire  insurance 


company  at,  266.    Proposed  Dutch  factory  at,  ibid.    For- 
tress at,  269.    Garrison  of,  270.    Barracks  of,  ibid.    Prison 
of,  ibid.    Police-office  of,  271.    Committee  of  health,  ibid. 
Post-office  at,  272.     Cathedral  at,  273.     Catholic  church 
at,  ibid.    Greek  church  at,  274.    Rascolnics  church,  ibid. 
Jews'  synagogue  at,  275.     Greek  burying-ground  at,  ibid. 
Jews'  burying-ground  at,  276.    Plague  burying-ground  at, 
ibid.     Town  hospital  at,  277.    Benevolent  society  of  the 
ladies  of,  279.  Society  of  prison  discipline  at,281.  Museum 
of,  283.  Imperial  agricultural  establishment  at,  284.   Agri- 
cultural society  of  southern  Russia,  ibid.     Establishment 
for  the  preparation  of  mineral  waters,  287.     Lyceum  of 
Richelieu,  ibid.     Institute  for  noble  young  ladies  at,  291. 
School  for  Oriental  languages  at,  292.    Public  garden  at, 
294.    Theatre  at,  ibid.     The  Club  at,  295.     Assembly- 
room  at,  ibid.     New  resourse  at,  296.     Hotel  du  Nord 
at,  ibid.     Race-course  at,  297.      Bathing-houses  at,  ibid. 
Odessa  Journal,  297,  298.     State  of  literature  and   the 
fine  arts  at,  299.    English  sheep  imported  into,  300.   Ge- 
neral notice  of  vineyards  in  the  liberties  of  the  town  of, 
301,  302,  303,  304.     Markets,  &c.,  305.     Rents  at,  306. 
Fuel,  307.     Native   coal    brought  to,  308.     Objects  of 
luxury  at,  310.     Coutas  at,  31 1.    Account  of  the  dreadful 
plague  which   prevailed   in  1812-13   at,  312.     Primary 
measures  to  arrest  the  contagion,  315.     Progress  of  the 
contagion,  317.     The   town    in  quarantine,    318.     Con- 
tinuance of  the  precautionary  measures,  322.     General 
symptoms   observed   in    those   who   laboured  under   the 
plague,  324.     Tables  of  the  mortality,  327.     Means  of 
prevention,  328.     Curious  case  of  insusceptibility  of  the 
plague,  329.     Residence  at,  331. 

Odessa,  Imperial  visit  to,  in  1828,  367.     Post-office  false 
marche  route,  441. 

Odessus,  183. 

Olga  Nicolaievna,  the  Grand  Duchess,  371. 

Olgopol,  436. 

Olmutz,  458. 

Oliza,  Count,  150. 

Orch.T,  131.     Miserable  accommodations  at,  132. 

I  I 


48-> 


INDEX, 


Orchitza,  131. 

Orlai,  Dr.,  275.  288.  289.  382. 

Orlof,  Countess,  376.  384. 

Orzechi,  131. 

Osbina,  lvS7. 

Ostend,  468,  469. 

Ostrog,  445. 

Ouroosof,  Princess,  57. 

Outchinnikof,  M.,  262. 

P. 

Padaroshna  lost,  160. 

Passau,  462. 

Paul,  Emperor,  187.  244. 

Perama,  435. 

Perofsky,  M.,  380. 

Pesostnaja  Buda,  137. 

"  Petersburg,  St., "  author  of,  and  other  writers  on  Russia,  36. 

— ,  author  of,  and  Madame  — — — ,  111. 


•,  not  a  fair  account  of  Russia,  111, 
.,  residence  in,  23. 


Pheophelova  Poustine,  124. 

Piller,  M.,  379. 

Polish  Jews,  filth  of,  131. 

Poloviki,  130. 

Porkhof,  126. 

Potier,  Major,  302. 

Pototskii,  Count  and  Countess  Boleslas,  150. 

Severin,  334. 

Stanislaus,  368.  385. 

Pouschkine  Alexander,  6S. 

Priskoukha,  127- 

Prnpoisk,  136. 

Proskurof,  440. 

Przemis,  457. 

Potyerakin,  Prince,  168.  178.  181.  336. 

«_«- . — ,  monument  to,  358. 

Punishments,  capital,  abolished  by  the  Empress  Elizabeth,  78. 

^ ,  inflicted  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  79. 

Punishment  of  forgery  in  Austria,  458. 


INDEX. 


R. 


1*83 


Rabovitchi,  136. 

Radzivilof,  447. 

Rainaud,  Baron,  261.  295.  311.  357. 

Ratisbon,  peculiar  head-dress  at,  463. 

Rhazes,  M.,  397.  399.  404. 

Rhine,  voyage  down,  465. 

Ribas,  Admiral,  178,  179.  183,  184. 

Ribaupierre,  M.,  106. 

Richelieu,  Duke  de,  190.  195.  273.  288.  291.  297.  314.  320. 

322.  329.  336,  337. 
.^«-«_ J  statue  of,  334. 


-,  monument  to,  335. 


•,  Duchess  de,  336. 


Roads,  log,  445. 

Romanzof,  Captain,  167. 

Rosenburg,  gardens  of,  4. 

Rossa,  R.,  155. 

Russia,  designs  of,  on  the  East  Indies,  266. 

,  Little,  138. 

,  New,  158. 

,  White,  128. 

,  writers  on,  and  the  author  of  "  St.  Petersburg,"  36. 

Russian  consul's  invitation  to  medical  men,  100. 
■        douaniers,  anedote  of,  466. 

equipages,  69. 

female  society,  state  of,  66.  78. 

government's  conduct  to  English  medical  men,  105. 

— faithless  poHcy  respecting  Odessa,  195. 


Jews,  filth  of,  131. 
ladies,  beauty  of,  &c.,  57. 
medical  officers,  condition  of,  98. 
military  officers,  education  of,  63. 
mode  of  raising  the  wind,  104. 
mountains,  51. 
'  posting,  system  of,  87. 
proverb,  35. 

seigneurs,  treatment  of  English  physicians,  107* 

I  I  '2 


481^ 


INDEX. 


Russian  servage,  73,  74,  75,  76,  77,  78. 

slave,  anecdote  of,  354. 

stoves,  83. 

Rutland,  Duke  of,  300. 


S, 

Sacken,  Field  Marshal  Count,  134. 
Samoillof,  Count,  359. 
Sarvintzy,  437. 
Sassitskaya,  172. 

I,  plague  monument  at,  ibid. 
Savranka,  river,  436. 
Scherbinin,  M.,  357. 
Schmidt,  M.,  284. 
Sea,  the  Black,  174. 
Semipolki,  144. 
Sicard,  M.,  335. 
Siednef,  137. 
Sklof,  133. 

Snow  storm,  accident  in  consequence  of  a,  140. 
Sophia,  114. 
Sorokina,  126. 
Souhakleia,  159. 
Sourage,  128. 
Spada,  M.,  357. 
Speranskii,  General,  81. 
Sphola,  158. 
Sporitis,  Major,  301. 
Staro  Constantinof,  440.  443- 
'*  Steppes,  the,"  139. 
Szlykova,  128. 
Szurilova,  ibid. 

T. 

Tarnow,  457- 
Tcht^mer,  137. 
Tchernigof,  town  of,  ibid. 
Tchetcherst,  137. 
Teschen,  457. 
Thorn  on,  M.,  295. 


INDEX. 


485 


Tiraspol,  431,  432,433,434. 
Toultchine,  437. 
Toultza,  445. 

Trick  played  upon  the  Governor-general,  403,  404. 
Trubetskoi,  Prince,  the  late   director   of  the   customs  at 
Odessa,  258. 

^ — ,  Prince,  his  brother,  now  in  chains  in  the  mines 

of  Siberia,  ibid. 

— ,  General,  385. 


Turkey,  the  late  war  in,  360. 
Turkish  prisoners,  6000  frozen  to  death,  141. 
talisman,  203. 


Usviat,  128. 


U. 


V. 


Vamskaia,  434. 

Varkovitchi,  445. 

Varna,  authentic  particulars  relative  to,  386. 

,  notice  of  antiquities  brought  from,  406. 

Vasilkof,  147. 
Velikie  Louki,  127. 
Venning,  Mr.,  28. 
Verba,  446. 
Veta,  147. 
Veylandova,  165. 
Vienna,  458,  459. 
Vincentovka,  155. 
Vinnitza,  439. 
Viska,  158. 
Vitebsk,  town  of,  129. 
Vladimir  St.,  order  of,  51. 
Vodianoe,  163. 
Volsey,M.,  291. 

Volskonsky,   Prince,  minister  of  the  Imperial  household, 
376.  384. 

>  in  chains  in  the  mines  of  Siberia,  339. 
' ,  Princess,   accompanied  her  husband   volun- 
tarily to  Siberia,  340. 


486 


INDEX. 


Voronovcliina,  136. 
Voronovitza,  439. 

W. 

Waterloo,  468. 
Willock,  Sir  Henry,  8. 

,  Lady,  ibid. 

Wilson,  General,  45. 

Witt,  Count  de,  253. 

Woinovitch,  Admiral,  179.  181. 

Wolf  hunt,  151. 

Wurtzburg,  464. 

Wvlie,  Sir  James,  45.  114.  277.  289.  390.  425. 


Yagorlic,  434. 
Yastchera,  121. 


Z. 


Zabokezyezka,  436. 
Zalazy,  125. 
Zapardinsky,  442. 
Zaslaf,  443. 
Zoritch,  General,  133. 
Zugine,  M.,  180. 


THE    END. 


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947.01 


M846 


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